ARTICHOKE, JERUSALEM, is a wholly different plant from the above, although it is commonly known as "Artichoke" in this country. It is a species of sunflower which produces potato-like tubers. These tubers may be used in lieu of potatoes. They are very palatable to hogs; and when the plant becomes a weed--as it often does--it may be exterminated by turning the hogs into it. Hardy.

ARUNDO, or REED, is one of the best of bold and ornamental grasses, excellent for the center of a large formal bed, or for emphatic points in a mixed border. It is perennial and hardy in the northern states, but it is advisable to give it a mulch on the approach of winter. Thrives in any rich soil, doing best where somewhat moist. 8-12 ft. The clumps enlarge year by year.

ASPARAGUS. A hardy herbaceous perennial, much grown for the soft, edible, early spring shoots. The culture of this, the finest of early vegetables, has been simplified in the past few years, and at present the knowledge required to successfully plant and grow a good supply need not be that of a professional. The old method of excavating to the depth of 3 ft. or more, throwing in from 4 to 6 in. of broken stone or bricks for drainage, then filling to within 16 to 18 in. of the surface with well rotted manure, with 6 in. of soil upon which to set the roots, has given place to the simple practice of plowing or digging a trench from 14 to 16 in. deep, spreading well rotted manure in the bottom to the depth of 3 or 4 in.; when well trodden down covering the manure with 3 or 4 in. of good garden soil, then setting the plants, with the roots well spread out, covering carefully with soil to the level of the garden, and firming the soil with the feet. This will leave the crowns of the plants from 4 to 5 in. below the surface. In setting, 1-year-old plants will prove more satisfactory than older ones, being less liable to suffer from injury to the root system than those which have made a larger growth. Two years after setting the crop may be cut, but not sooner if a lasting bed is desired, as the effort to replace the stalks has a tendency to weaken the plant unless the roots are well established. The yearly treatment of an Asparagus bed consists of cleaning off tops and weeds in the fall and adding a dressing of well rotted manure to the depth of 3 or 4 in., this manure to be lightly forked into the bed the following spring; or, the tops may be allowed to stand for winter protection and the mulch left off. A top-dressing of nitrate of soda, at the rate of 200 pounds per acre, is often beneficial as a spring stimulant, especially in the case of an old bed. Good results will also follow an application of bone meal or superphosphate at the rate of from 300 to 500 pounds per acre. The practice of sowing salt on an Asparagus bed is almost universal. Still, beds that have never received a pound of salt are found to be as productive as those having received an annual dressing. Nevertheless, a salt dressing is recommended. In stubborn, heavy soil the best method to pursue in making a permanent bed would be to throw out all the dirt from the trench and replace with good, fibrous loam. Two rows of Asparagus 25 ft. long and 3 ft. apart would supply a large family with an abundance throughout the season, and if well taken care of will last a number of years. Conover's Colossal is the variety most generally grown, and is perhaps the most satisfactory sort. Palmetto, a variety originating at the south, is also very popular. A newer variety, called Donald White, originating near Elmira, N. Y., is recommended by the trade.

ASPERULA. Hardy annuals and perennials. The low-growing Asperula, with its blue or white flowers, is not as often used as it should be. The profusion of small flowers and the long season entitle it to a place in low borders. The flowers have a pleasing fragrance. Asperulas may be used effectively on rockwork. The common white species, or Woodruff, grows less than 1 foot. Grown readily from seeds, and blooms the first year. All Asperulas thrive best in a rather moist soil.

ASTERS, CHINA. Half-hardy annuals, of easy culture. The China Aster has been for years a great favorite in both old-fashioned and modern gardens. With the improvements in shapes and colors, they are now the rivals of the chrysanthemum. As early as 1731 single white and red Asters were grown and described in England, and by 1845 they are mentioned as being very numerous in New England. The Germans were, perhaps, the first to improve the Asters, and the type most admired and sought fifty years ago was the full-quilled varieties. Now, however, the informal type replaces the stiff, formal quilled flowers of that period.

Compare the Comet Aster of to-day with the Asters of even twenty years ago, and note the looseness of its broad rays, giving an artistic value far beyond the tall, stiff, purple-blue or whites of that period.

[Illustration: China Aster]

The early Asters will bloom in August if the seed is sown in the open early in the season. They are represented by the Queen of the Market and Queen of Spring, either of which, if started in a hotbed or window, will begin to bloom the last of July. The Queen of the Market is probably the freest of growth, and with its long stems makes a very desirable variety for cut-flowers. In fact, in the rich, mellow soil in which Asters delight, this variety is likely to have its large flowers on stems so long and slender that the plants will need stakes.

The Victoria Asters hold a well deserved place among the leading varieties, and with high culture will generally lead in size and profusion of bloom, the colors ranging from white to the darkest blue.

The plants are also well adapted to pot culture. The chrysanthemum-flowered Asters, both tall and dwarf, are excellent, as are the Truffaut Perfection and Peony-flowered. The Comet Asters are amongst the best.

The New Branching type is now in great favor.

The culture of China Asters is easy. For early bloom the seeds should be sown in March in boxes of light soil and covered one-quarter of an inch with soil, the soil pressed down or firmed over them and the boxes placed in a hotbed or a sunny window and attention given to watering.

When the seedlings are one inch high they should be transplanted to other boxes, setting the plants 3 inches apart or put into 2-inch pots.

These should be again placed in a frame and grown along until the ground has become comparatively warm. The soil will need to be well enriched, mellow, and if slightly moist under the surface the results will be all that could be wished. Asters will grow fairly well on rather light soil, even if not very rich, but the best results can only be obtained when the highest culture is given. If the rust attacks the plants, spray with ammoniacal carbonate of copper.

[Illustration: Spray of wild Aster]

ASTER, NATIVE. Wild Asters are one of the glories of the American autumn. They grow almost everywhere in the north and east,--along roadsides, in meadows and swales. Their colors range from pure white to pink, and purple, and blue. From August until winter closes in, they are conspicuous features of the landscape, vying with the goldenrods in form and color, but surpassing them in color-range. Most of them are greatly improved when transferred to the border. They become more attractive in general habit, and the flowers are usually more profuse and sometimes larger. They are of the easiest possible culture. They can be removed to home grounds in the fall or spring, and, with little care until they are established, will make most attractive displays of autumn color. The species are numerous and much confused, and it is not necessary to make a list of them here. Because of their free and careless habit, they are better adapted to planting in borders than in the formal flower beds.

[Illustration: Wild Asters]

AUBRIETIA DELTOIDEA. A very handsome little trailing hardy perennial, covered with attractive purple flowers in early spring. Should be planted in masses for best effect. Propagated by cuttings or seeds, usually the latter. Excellent for rockwork and permanent low edgings.

AURICULA. A half-hardy perennial of the Primrose tribe (_Primula Auricula_), very popular in Europe, but little grown in this country on account of the hot, dry summers. In this country usually propagated by seed, as for Cineraria; but special varieties are perpetuated by offsets. Seeds sown in February or March should give blooming plants for the next February or March. Keep the plants cool and moist, and away from the direct sun during the summer. Gardeners usually grow them in frames. In the fall, they are potted into 3-inch or 4-inch pots, and made to bloom either in frames as for violets or in a cool conservatory or greenhouse. In April, after blooming has ceased, repot the plants and treat as the previous year. From the best plants, offsets may be taken and treated the same as seedlings. As with most annual-blooming perennials, best results are to be expected with year-old or 2-year-old plants. Auriculas grow 6-8 in. high. Colors white and many shades of red and blue.

AZALEAS are less grown in this country than in Europe, largely because of our hot, dry summers and severe winters. There are two common types or classes,--the hardy or Ghent Azaleas, and the Indian Azaleas.

Ghent Azaleas thrive in the open along the seacoast as far north as southern New England. They require a sandy, peaty soil, and are treated as other shrubs are. The large flower-buds are liable to injury from the warm suns of late winter and early spring, and to avoid this injury the plants are often protected by covers or shades of brush. In the interior country, little attempt is made to flower Azaleas permanently in the open, although they may be grown if carefully tended and well protected.

Both Ghent and Indian Azaleas are excellent pot-plants, for bloom in late winter and spring. The plants are imported in great numbers from Europe, and it is better to buy these plants than to attempt to propagate them. Pot them up in large-sized pots, keep them cool and backward for a time until they are established, then take them into a conservatory temperature, in which carnations and roses thrive. They should be potted in a soil made of half peat or well decayed mold and half rich loam; add a little sand. Pot firmly, and be sure to provide sufficient drainage. Keep off red spider by syringing. After blooming, the plants may be thinned by pruning out the straggling growths, and repotted. Set them in a frame or in a semi-shaded place during summer, and see that they make a good growth. The wood should be well ripened in the fall. After cold weather sets in, keep the Indian or evergreen kinds half-dormant by setting them in a cool, dull-lighted cellar or pit, bringing them in when wanted for bloom. The Ghent or deciduous kinds may be touched with frost without injury; and they may be stored in a cellar until wanted.

BACHELOR'S BUTTON. _Centaurea Cyanus_ and also _Gomphrena_. Sometimes applied to double-flowered Crowfoots.

[Illustration: Balloon Vine]

BALLOON VINE, or CARDIOSPERMUM. Annual tender tendril climber of very rapid growth. Seed should not be planted until the soil becomes warm. A very pretty effect can be had by allowing the vine to run over some coarser vine, or into an evergreen tree. The balloon-like capsules show to good advantage between the leaves. It is also useful for covering piles of brush. Grows 8-12 ft. high. Give a warm, sunny place.

BALSAMS, or IMPATIENS. Tender annuals, producing both single and double flowers of many colors. These well known favorites are usually to be found in old-fashioned gardens. They are very likely to seed themselves, coming up in unexpected places and flourishing in neglect. They do best, however, in rich, sandy soil. If the seed is sown in boxes late in April and the plants transplanted several times they will be much dwarfer and the flowers much more double. A stately, though very formal and stiff, effect may be had by planting a row of Balsams in the rear of a low border, pinching off all the side shoots as they start and growing the plant to a single stem. This will become covered with the large blooms, giving it the appearance of a perfect column of flowers. Balsams are injured by the slightest frost. Seeds germinate quickly. Plants should stand 12-18 in. apart. They grow 18-30 in. high.

BARTONIA. Hardy annual, with golden yellow, brilliant flowers. The tall-growing Bartonia (_B. aurea_) may be used in a mixed border to good advantage. It is a bushy plant, reaching 2-3 ft. high. The dwarf kind may be used as a border plant or in a rock garden, or as an edging. The fragrance of both tall and dwarf is very pronounced in the evening. The Bartonias are very easy to grow in a warm soil and sunny exposure. Their numerous thread-like, long stamens are very interesting.

BASKET PLANTS. In order to have a good hanging basket, it is necessary that some provision be made to prevent too rapid drying out of the earth. It is customary, therefore, to line the pot or basket with moss.

Open wire baskets, like a horse muzzle, are often lined with moss and used for the growing of plants. Prepare the earth by mixing some well decayed leaf-mold with rich garden loam, thereby making an earth which will retain moisture. Hang the basket in a light place, but still not in a direct sunlight; and, if possible, avoid putting it where it will be exposed to drying wind. In order to water the basket, it is often advisable to sink it into a pail or tub of water. Various plants are well adapted to hanging baskets. Among the drooping or vine-like kinds are the strawberry geranium, Kenilworth ivy, maurandya, German ivy, canary-bird flower, _Asparagus Sprengeri_, ivy geranium, trailing fuchsia, wandering Jew, and othonna. Among the erect-growing plants which produce flowers, _Lobelia Erinus_, sweet alyssum, petunias, oxalis, and various geraniums are to be recommended. Among foliage plants such things as coleus, dusty miller, begonia, and some geraniums are adaptable.

[Illustration: Climax basket]

BASKETS. For the picking and handling of fruit in the home garden, the common Climax basket, in various sizes, is the best receptacle. In these baskets the products may be sold. When the baskets are sent to market or to a friend, they should be neat and new looking; therefore keep them in a dry, dark place, as in an attic or loft, to prevent them from becoming warped and discolored.

BEAN. Under the general name of Bean, many kinds of plants are cultivated. They are all tender, and the seeds, therefore, should not be planted until the weather is thoroughly settled; and the soil should be warm and loose. They are all annuals in northern countries, or treated as such.

The Bean plants may be classified in various ways. In respect to stature, they may be thrown into three general categories; viz., the pole or climbing Beans, the bush Beans, and the strict-growing or upright Beans (as the Broad or Windsor Bean). In respect to their uses, Beans again may be divided into three categories; viz., those which are used as string or snap Beans, the entire pod being eaten; those which are used as shell Beans, the full-size but immature Beans being shelled from the pod and cooked; dry Beans, or those which are eaten in their dry or winter condition. The same variety of Bean may be used for all of these three purposes at different stages of its development; but as a matter of fact, there are varieties which are better for one purpose than the other. Again, Beans may be classified in respect to their species. Those species which are best known are as follows: (1) Common Bean, or _Phaseolus vulgaris_, of which there are both tall and bush forms. All the common snap and string Beans belong here, as also the Speckled Cranberry types of pole Beans, and the common field Beans. (2) The Lima Beans, or _Phaseolus lunatus_. The larger part of these are pole Beans, but lately dwarf or bush varieties have appeared. (3) The Scarlet Runner, _Phaseolus multiflorus_, of which the Scarlet Runner and White Dutch Runner are familiar examples. The Scarlet Runner is usually grown as an ornamental vine, and it is perennial in warm countries, but the Beans are edible as shelled Beans. The White Dutch Runner is oftener cultivated for food. (4) The Yard-Long, or Asparagus Bean, _Dolichos sesquipedalis_, which produces long and weak vines and very long, slender pods. The green pods are eaten, and also the shelled Beans. The French Yard-Long is the only variety of this type which is commonly known in this country. This type of Bean is popular in the Orient. (5) The Broad Beans, of which the Windsor is the common type.

These are much grown in the Old World for stock feed, and they are sometimes used for human food. They grow to one strict, central, stiff stalk, to a height of 2-4 or 5 ft., and they are very unlike other kinds of Beans in appearance. In this country, they are very little grown on account of our hot and dry summers. In Canada they are somewhat grown, and are sometimes used in the making of ensilage.

The culture of the Bean, while of the easiest, often proves a failure as far as the first crop is concerned, because of planting the seed before the ground has become warm and dry. No vegetable seed will decay quicker than Beans, and the delay caused by waiting for the soil to become warm and free from excessive moisture will be more than made up by the rapidity of growth when finally they are planted. Beans will grow in most any soil, but the best results may be obtained by having the soil well enriched and in good physical condition. From the 5th to the 10th of May in the latitude of central New York, it will be safe to plant Beans for an early crop. The Beans may be dropped 2 inches deep in shallow drills, the seeds to lie 3 inches apart. Cover to the surface of the soil, and if the ground be dry, firm it with the foot or the back of the hoe. For the bush varieties, allow 2 ft. between the drill-rows, but for the dwarf Limas 2 ft. is better. Pole Limas are usually planted in hills 2-3 ft. apart in the rows. Dwarf Limas may be sown thinly in drills.

A large number of the varieties of both the green-podded and the wax-podded Beans are used almost exclusively as snap Beans, to be eaten with the pod while tender. The various strains of the Black Wax are the most popular string Beans. The pole or running Beans are used either green or dried, and the Limas, both tall and dwarf, are well known for their superior flavor either as shelled or dry Beans. The old-fashioned Cranberry or Horticultural Lima type (a pole form of _Phaseolus vulgaris_) is probably the best shell Bean, but the trouble of poling makes it unpopular. Dwarf Limas are much more desirable for small gardens than the pole varieties, as they may be planted much closer, the bother of procuring poles and twine is avoided, and the garden will have a more sightly appearance. Both the dwarf Limas and pole Limas require a longer season in which to mature than the bush varieties, and only one planting is usually made. But the bush varieties may be planted at intervals of two weeks from the first planting until the 10th of August.

Each planting may be made on ground previously occupied by some early-maturing crop. Thus, the first to third plantings may be on ground from which has been harvested a crop of spinach, early radish or lettuce; after that, on ground where early peas have been grown; and the later sowings where beets or early potatoes have grown. String Beans for canning are usually taken from the last crop. One quart of seed will plant 100 ft. of drill; or 1 quart of Limas will plant 100 hills.

Limas are the richest of Beans, but they often fail to mature in the northern states. The land should not be very rich in nitrogen (or stable manure), else the plants will run too much to vine and be too late.

Select a fertile sandy or gravelly soil with warm exposure, use some soluble commercial fertilizer to start them off, and give them the best of culture. Aim to have the pods set before the droughts of midsummer come. Good trellises for Beans are made by wool twine stretched between two horizontal wires, one of which is drawn a foot above the ground and the other 6 or 7 ft. high.

Bean plants are not troubled by insects to any extent, but they are sometimes attacked by blight. When this occurs, do not plant the same ground to Beans again for a year or two.

BEDDING. This term is used to designate the massing of plants in the open ground for the purpose of making a bold display of color. This color may be obtained with flowers or with strong effects of foliage.

Bedding is ordinarily a temporary species of planting; that is, the bed is filled anew each year. However, the term may be used to designate a permanent plantation of plants which are heavily massed so as to give one continuous or emphatic display of form or color. Some of the best permanent bedding masses are made of the various hardy ornamental grasses, as eulalias, arundo, and the like.

Some bedding is very temporary in its effect. Especially is this true of spring Bedding, in which the plants used are tulips, hyacinths, crocuses or other early-flowering bulbous plants. In this case, the ground is usually occupied later in the season by other plants. These later plants are usually annuals, the seeds of which are sown amongst the bulbs as soon as the season is far enough advanced; or the annuals may be started in boxes and the plants transplanted amongst the bulbs as soon as the weather is fit. Many of the low-growing and compact, continuous-flowering annuals are excellent for summer Bedding effects. Some of the best plants for this purpose are mentioned in the following list:

Adonis aestivalis.

Adonis autumnalis.

Ageratum Mexicanum.

Ageratum Mexicanum, dwarf.

Bartonia aurea.

Cacalia.

Calendula officinalis, in several forms.

Calendula pluvialis.