The Pear thrives on clay soil, if well underdrained, and for this reason may succeed in places where other fruits might fail. A good, steady growth should be maintained, but the use of nitrogenous manures should be avoided, as they tend to make a rank growth and invite attacks of Pear blight, which is the worst enemy of the Pear. For summer fruits: Osband's Summer, Bartlett, Clapp and Manning Elizabeth are among the best. For autumn: Duchess, Flemish Beauty, Bosc, Louise Bonne, Seckel and Sheldon. For winter fruit: Anjou, Clairgeau, Lawrence and Winter Nelis are excellent. Kieffer is an excellent commercial fruit, but it is too poor to be given space in the home ground except as an ornamental tree.

Of the Pear blight, Duggar writes as follows:

"REMEDIES. (_a_) _The knife and the saw._--With a disease working as this does, it is very evident that there is no chance either for cure or prevention by means of spraying. The heroic treatment of the knife and saw must be adopted and vigorously pursued, as has been claimed from the beginning. The blackened leaves alone must not serve as signs of the diseased area, but one must examine carefully the branches and remove them 6 inches or more below the lowest discolorations. Often before cutting, pruners slice the bark downward to see where the injury ends.

This should not be done; it is better to be sure that you are below the infected area, and run no such risk of infecting anew the tissues below.

The cut surfaces of larger limbs and branches should be painted for protection against wound rots.

"(_b_) _When to cut._--Cutting out diseased portions should be done whenever the disease is evident. This may check the injuries temporarily; but it has been shown that much can be done in the autumn to prevent the establishment of the disease the following spring. It has long been known that the disease may pass the winter in the branches by a slow growth in the neighborhood of late infections. Thorough work of eradication should especially be performed after the season of growth.

Then cut out every diseased branch and burn, so that in the spring when the succulent growth begins again, there will be few places in which insects may come in contact with the bacterial exudations.

"(_c_) _Conditions favoring the disease._--The knife is our only hope of extermination; but there are undoubtedly conditions which favor the disease. In a succulent, rapidly growing tree the bacteria find more favorable conditions for their development than in one which grows slowly, yet with sufficient vigor. For this reason, too much nitrogenous manure is dangerous; and, for the same reason, a succulent growth induced by severe pruning should be avoided."

[Illustration: Pelargonium, or Geranium]

PELARGONIUMS. Here belong the plants known as Geraniums--the most satisfactory of house-plants, and extensively used as bedding plants. No plants will give better returns in leaf and flower; and these features, added to the ease of propagation, make them general favorites. Cuttings of partially ripened wood root very easily, grow to blooming size in a short time, and, either planted out or grown in a pot, make fine decorations. The common or "Fish" Geraniums are much more satisfactory when not more than a year old. Take cuttings from the old plants at least once a year. In four or five months the young plants begin to bloom. Plants may be taken up from the garden and potted, but they rarely give as much satisfaction as young, vigorous subjects. Repot frequently until they are in 4- to 5-inch pots; then let them bloom.

The show Pelargoniums are those commonly known as Lady Washington Geraniums. These have but one period of bloom, usually in April, but they make up in size and coloring. This section is more difficult to manage as a house plant than the common Geranium, needing more direct light to keep it stocky, and being troubled by insects. Still, all the trouble taken to grow them will be well repaid by the handsome blossoms.

Take cuttings in late spring, after flowering, and blooming plants may be had the following year. Good results are sometimes secured by keeping these plants two or three years. Cut back after each blooming season.

For house culture the Geraniums need a rich, fibrous loam, with the addition of a little sand; good drainage is also an essential.

PEONY. The herbaceous Peony has long had a place in the garden, and is now in general use as an early flowering plant. It is perfectly hardy, and free from the many diseases and insects that attack so many fine plants. The single and semi-double varieties are very fine, the flowers becoming large as the plant becomes well established. The herbaceous section is readily increased by division. The tree Peonies are increased by grafting. They grow in some cases to the height of 3 or more feet, and are covered with large, very double flowers of rich colors. Height 2 to 3 feet.

PEPPERS are tender while young, although they will endure a heavy frost in the fall. Their culture is that recommended for eggplants. A small seedsman's packet of seed will be sufficient for a large number of plants, say two hundred. The large Bell Peppers are the mildest, and are used for making "stuffed Peppers" and other dishes. The small, hot Peppers are used for seasoning and sauces.

[Illustration: Bell Pepper]

PETUNIA. The improvement made in the size and markings of the Petunia has been marked of late. Now almost every shade of color may be found, aside from yellow. A bed of Petunias makes a mass of color equaled by few other flowers. They also make very fine single plants for pots, baskets or window-boxes, blooming freely through the winter, and emitting a delicate fragrance. The single varieties grow freely from seed, but if plants of one special color are wanted cuttings should be made. These cuttings root easily and bloom early. Cuttings will have to be made of the double varieties to increase their number. For common Petunias, sow seeds where plants are to grow, in a warm, sunny place; or, for earlier bloom, seeds may be started in the house. Thin to 8 to 12 inches apart. The season of bloom is cut short only by frost or other causes.

[Illustration: Petunia]

PHLOX. Both the perennial and the annual Phloxes are most valuable.

Excepting the petunia, no plant will give the profusion of bloom with as little care as the annual Phlox (_Phlox Drummondii_). Masses of one color or of contrasting colors make very effective ribbon borders or edging beds. The perennial species are very showy, having almost as wide a range of color as the annuals. They grow to the height of 3 feet. They are most effective in the back row of a border. The perennials have been much improved of late. They are hardy.

The annual Phlox is propagated by seed sown early in the spring in the border, or in March in boxes and transplanted. The perennial Phlox is increased by division of the roots, the flowers being larger and more highly colored by dividing at least every three years. The annual Phlox blooms early, and continues until late in the fall. The perennial blooms from July to frost.

PINK. See _Dianthus_ and _Carnation_.

PLUM. Of Plums there are three general or common types: first, the common Domestica or European Plum, which gives rise to all the older varieties, like Lombard, Bradshaw, Green Gage, the Prunes, the Egg Plums, the Damsons, and the like; second, the Japanese Plums, which have become popular within the last ten years, and which are adapted to a wider range of country than the Domesticas; third, the native Plums of several species or types, which are adapted to the plains, the middle and southern states, where the Domestica Plums do not thrive, and some kinds to the cold North.

Wherever the Domestica and Japanese Plums can be grown, the native Plums are not destined to become popular; but many of the natives are much hardier than others, and are therefore adapted to regions in which the Domestica and Japanese are not safe. Others of them are well adapted to the middle and southern states. The Domestica and Japanese Plums are considerably hardier than peaches, but not so hardy as the apple. The northern limit of their general cultivation is the southern peninsula of Michigan, central and southern Ontario, central New York and central New England.

Plums thrive on a great variety of soils, but they do better, as a rule, on those which are rather heavy and have a considerable content of clay.

In fact, many of the varieties will thrive on clay as hard as that upon which pears will grow. On the other hand, they often thrive well upon light, and even almost sandy soils.

The trees are set when they are two and three years from the bud. It is preferable to have Plum trees on stocks of the same species, but it is not always possible to secure them at the nurseries. In the South, Plums are worked mostly on peach roots, and these make excellent trees where the climate is not too severe, and especially upon the lighter lands on which they are planted in the South. In the North the larger part of the Plum stocks are grown on the Myrobalan Plum roots. This Myrobalan is an Old World species of Plum, of smaller growth than the Domestica. This stock, therefore, tends to dwarf the tree, and it is also likely to throw up sprouts from the roots. Plum trees are set from 12 to 18 feet apart. Many growers like to set them 8 feet apart in rows, and have the rows from 16 to 20 feet apart.

Plums are pruned much the same as apples and pears. That is, the top is thinned out from year to year, and all superfluous branches and broken or diseased wood are removed. If the soil is very strong and the trees are close together, it may be well to head them in a little each year, especially those varieties which grow very strong and robust.

The varieties of Plums are very numerous. Of the Domestica or European type, some of the best are Bradshaw, Imperial Gage, Jefferson, Reine Claude, Coe Golden Drop, Quackenbos, Fellemburg, German Prune, Copper.

The Lombard is the most cosmopolitan variety, and is always sure to give a crop, but the quality is not so good as that of the others mentioned.

For culinary purposes, some of the Damsons, which are very small-fruited varieties, are excellent. Of Japanese Plums, the best so far tested for the North are Red June, Abundance, Burbank, Chabot and Satsuma. For a very early cherry-like Plum for home use, the Berger is excellent. Of the native Plums, the most cosmopolitan variety is Wild Goose. Excellent varieties are Weaver, Quaker, Forest Garden, Wayland, and others.

[Illustration: Plums]

There are four leading difficulties in the growing of Plums--leaf blight, fruit rot, black knot, and curculio.

The leaf blight usually comes on about midsummer, the leaves becoming spotted and dropping off. The remedy for this trouble is to spray thoroughly with Bordeaux mixture, beginning soon after the fruits have set, and before the trouble begins to show.

The fruit rot may be prevented by the same means--that is, by spraying with Bordeaux mixture. It is usually best to begin just after the fruits are well set. A very important consideration in the checking of this disease is to thin the fruit so that it does not hang in clusters. If one fruit touches another, the rot spreads from fruit to fruit in spite of the spraying. Some varieties, like Lombard and Abundance, are susceptible to this injury.

The black knot is best kept in check by cutting out the knots whenever they can be seen, and burning them. As soon as the leaves drop, the orchard should be gone over and all knots taken out. Orchards which are thoroughly sprayed with Bordeaux mixture for the leaf blight and fruit-rot fungus are less liable to attacks of black knot.

The curculio, or the insect which is the parent of the worms in the fruit, is the inveterate enemy of the Plum and other stone fruits. The mature beetle lays the eggs in the fruits when they are very small, usually beginning its work about as soon as the flowers fall. These eggs soon hatch, and the little maggot bores into the fruit. Those fruits which are attacked whilst very young ordinarily fall from the tree, but those which are attacked when they are half or more grown may adhere to the tree, but are wormy and gummy at the picking time. The mature beetles are sluggish in the mornings, and are easily jarred from the trees. Taking advantage of this fact, the fruit-grower may jar them into sheets; or, in large orchards, into a large canvas hopper, which is wheeled from tree to tree upon a wheelbarrow-like frame, and under the apex of which is a tin can into which the insects roll. There is a slit or opening in one side of the hopper, which allows the tree to stand nearly in the middle of the canvas. The operator then gives the tree two or three sharp jars with a padded pole or mallet. The edges of the hopper are then quickly shaken with the hands and the insects roll down into the tin receptacle. In this receptacle there is kerosene oil, or it may be emptied from time to time. Just how long this machine is to be run in the orchard will depend entirely upon circumstances. It is advisable to use the catcher soon after the blossoms fall, for the purpose of finding out how abundant the insects are. If a few insects are caught upon each tree, there is indication that there are enough of the pests to make serious trouble. If after a few days the insects seem to have disappeared, it will not be necessary to continue the hunt. In some years, especially in those succeeding a very heavy crop, it may be necessary to run the curculio-catcher every morning for four or five weeks; but, as a rule, it will not be necessary to use it oftener than two or three times a week during that season; and sometimes the season may be shortened by one-half. The insects fall most readily when the weather is cool, and it, therefore, is best to get through the whole orchard, if possible, before noon. Upon cloudy days, however, the insects may be caught all day. A smart man can attend to 300 to 400 full-bearing trees in six hours if the ground has been well rolled or firmed, as it should be before the bugging operation begins. But whether the operation is troublesome or not, it is the price of Plums, and the grower must not expect to succeed long without it. The same treatment is essential to the saving of peaches and rarely, also, of sour cherries.

POPPY. These showy annuals and perennials should be more generally grown. Nothing will lighten up a corner better than the hardy oriental Poppy, or the solid crimson or scarlet annual Poppies. All of the varieties grow readily from seed, which, in most cases, should be sown where the plants are to bloom. The seeds of the oriental and the Iceland Poppy may be sown in pots, the plants wintered over in a frame and carefully planted out the second spring. The Poppy is very impatient of root disturbance, however, and the safest method is to sow the seed where wanted.

PORTULACA, or ROSE MOSS. Brilliant little tender annuals, low-growing and sun-loving. They usually seed themselves, and once established will continue for years. Many of the varieties will produce a good percentage of flowers as double as roses and of many colors. Seed should be sown where wanted. They bloom freely in light, sandy soil in the full blaze of the sun.

POTATO. The common practice of growing Potatoes in ridges or elevated hills is wrong, unless the soil is so wet that this practice is necessary to insure proper drainage; but in this case the land is not adapted to the growing of Potatoes. If the land is elevated into ridges or hills, there is a great loss of moisture by means of evaporation.

During the last cultivating the Potatoes may be hilled up slightly in order to cover the tubers; but the hills should not be made in the beginning. Land for Potatoes should be rather loamy in character, and ought to have a liberal supply of potash, either naturally or supplied in the drill, by means of an application of sulfate of potash. See that the land is deeply plowed or spaded, so that the roots can penetrate deeper. Plant the Potatoes 3 or 4 inches below the natural surface of the ground. It is ordinarily best to drop the pieces in drills. A continuous drill may be made by means of dropping one piece every 6 inches, but it is usually thought best to drop two pieces about every 12 to 18 inches. The drills are far enough apart to allow good cultivation.

If horse cultivation is used, the drills should be at least 3 feet apart.

[Illustration: Potatoes]

Small Potatoes are considered not to be so good as large ones for planting. One reason is because too many sprouts arise from each one, and these sprouts are apt to crowd each other. The same is true of the tip end or seed end of the tuber. Even when it is cut off, the eyes are so numerous that one secures many weak shoots rather than two or three strong ones. It is ordinarily best to cut the Potatoes to two or three eyes, leaving as much tuber as possible with each piece. From seven to eight bushels of Potatoes are required to plant an acre.

For a very early crop in the garden, tubers are sometimes sprouted in the cellar. When the sprouts are 4 to 6 inches high the tubers are carefully planted. It is essential that the sprouts are not broken in the handling. In this practice, also, the tubers are first cut into large pieces, so that they will not dry out too much.

The staple remedy for the Potato bug is Paris green, 1 pound of poison to 150 to 200 gallons of water, with a little lime (see _Paris Green_).

For the blight, spray with Bordeaux mixture, and spray thoroughly.

Bordeaux mixture will also keep away the flea beetle to a large extent.

POTATO, SWEET. See _Sweet Potato_.

POTTING. The operation of potting a plant, while in itself simple, is very often associated with success or failure in the growth of the plant. The first and most common reason of failure is using too large a pot; the second, imperfect drainage; and the third, the poor physical condition of the soil.