DIANTHUS, or PINK. Under this head are included Chinese Pinks, Sweet William, Picotee, Carnation (which see), and the perennial or Grass Pinks. All of them are general favorites.

The Chinese Pinks (_Dianthus Chinensis_, or _Heddewigii_) are now very popular. They are biennials, but flower the first year from seed, and are treated as hardy annuals. They have a wide range of color and markings. Some of them are as double as a rose, and are edged, splashed or lined with other colors. The single ones are very brilliant and are profuse bloomers. Sow seeds where plants are to stand, or if early bloom is desired, start in the house. Set the plants 6-10 in. apart. They grow 8-15 in. high. They bloom until after frost. Of easiest culture in any good soil, and should be even more popular. The petals are often quite deeply and oddly cut.

The Sweet William is an old-fashioned perennial, having flowers of many combinations of color, growing for several years when once planted, but being the better for renewal every two years. Raising new stock from seeds is usually better than dividing old plants. Of late years, the Sweet William has been much improved.

The perennial garden or Grass Pinks are low-growing, with highly perfumed flowers. They are very useful for permanent edgings, although the grass is likely to run them out unless a clean strip is kept on either side. Divide the old plants when the edging begins to fail; or raise new plants from seed. Seedlings usually do not bloom much the first year. Usually perfectly hardy.

[Illustration: Dibbers]

DIBBERS are hand tools used for making holes in which to set plants or to drop seeds. They are better than a hoe or a spade for most transplanting. For small plants, as cabbages and tomatoes, a cylindrical Dibber is generally used. (See the lower one in the cut.) It can be made from an old spade handle or any hardwood stick. When broad holes are wanted, the triangular iron Dibber (sold by dealers) is excellent. It is particularly useful in hard soils.

DICENTRA includes the Bleeding Heart; also the native little Dutchman's Breeches and Squirrel Corn, and a few other species. All are hardy perennials of the easiest culture, blooming in spring. In common with all perennial herbs, they are benefited by a winter mulch of leaves or litter. Propagated by dividing the clumps.

DICTAMNUS. FRAXINELLA or GAS PLANT. An old border plant (perennial herb) with white or pale red flowers. The leaves of the plant emit a strong odor when rubbed, likened to that of the lemon verbena. It has been advertised as the Gas Plant from the fact that the plant exudes an oily matter that may be ignited, especially in warm, dry weather. Propagated by seeds, which should be sown as soon as ripe. The plant blooms the third year, and improves with age. Set plants 3 feet apart. Height 2 to 3 feet.

DILL. An annual aromatic herb that will seed itself if seeds are left to ripen, and an abundance of plants may always be had. The culture is of the easiest. The seeds are often used to flavor pickles.

DISEASES. Diseases of plants may be caused by some physiological disturbance to the plant system, or by the incursions of some parasitic organism, as insects or fungi. The work of insects, however, is ordinarily not classed with plant Diseases (see _Insects_). Of Diseases which are caused by plant parasites or by physiological disturbances, there are two general groups:

(1) Parasitic fungous Diseases, such as the apple-scab, black-rot and mildew of the grape, leaf-blight of the plum and pear, black-knot, and the like. These Diseases are characterized by definite spots, discolorations or excrescences, which are more or less scattered over the surface of the leaf, fruit or branch. As a rule, the leaves and fruits which are attacked have a tendency to drop from the tree. The general treatment for these Diseases is to spray with some fungicidal mixture, like the Bordeaux mixture or the ammoniacal carbonate of copper. The treatment is useful in proportion as it is applied early and thoroughly. After the fungus once gets into the tissues of the host-plant, it is difficult, if not impossible, to kill it. If, however, the fungicide is upon the plant before the fungus is, the parasite may not be able to obtain a foothold. Even after it does obtain a foothold, it is probable, however, that the spray will check its spread by preventing the development of its external parts.

(2) The physiological and bacterial Diseases, or those which are termed constitutional troubles. In these cases there are rarely any definite spots, as in the attacks of parasitic fungi, but the entire leaf, or even the entire plant, or a large part of it, shows a general weakening and Disease, as if there were some cutting off of the accustomed source of nourishment. Such Diseases are very likely to be seen in a general yellowing and death of the leaf, in the dying of the leaf along the main veins and around the edges, showing that the difficulty is one which affects the entire leaf, and not any particular part of it. In general, there is a tendency for the foliage in plants so attacked to wither up and hang on the tree for a time. The peach-yellows and pear blight are Diseases of this kind. There are no specific treatments for troubles of this sort. They must be approached by what physicians call prophylaxis--that is, by methods of sanitation and prevention. The diseased plants or parts are cut away and burned. All those conditions which seem to favor the development of the Disease are removed.

Varieties which are particularly susceptible are discarded. Careful management in matters of this sort is often much more important than any attempt at specific treatment.

DOLICHOS. Mentioned under _Hyacinth Bean_.

DRACaeNAS of the conservatories (properly mostly CORDYLINES) are sometimes used as house plants. Protect from direct sunlight, keep an even and fairly high temperature, water freely when they are growing.

When the plants begin to fail, return them to the florist for recuperation, where they may have equable conditions. They are handsome long-leaved foliage plants, excellent for jardinieres.

DRAINAGE serves two purposes: first, to carry superfluous water from the land; second, to lower the water-table or hard-pan, and to make the soil loose and friable above. Nearly all hard clay lands are much benefited by draining, even though they are not too wet. The region of free or standing water is lowered and air is admitted into the soil, rendering it fine and mellow. For carrying off mere surface water, surface or open ditches are sufficient; but if the soil is to be ameliorated, the drain must be beneath the surface. The best underdrains are those which use hollow or cylindrical tiles, but very good results may be had by making drains from stones. In regions where there are many flat stones, a very good conduit may be laid with them, but they are likely to get out of order. If there is considerable fall to the ditch, the bottom may be filled for the space of 10 inches or a foot with common stones rolled in, and the water will find its way between them. If the stones are even deeper than this, the results will be better; and such ditches also provide place for disposing of superfluous stones.

The deeper the ditch the further it will draw on either side. It should always be deep enough to be protected from freezing, particularly if tiles are used. Three feet should be the least depth, and 3 feet is a good average depth. Drains as deep as this need not be placed oftener than 2 to 3 rods apart, unless, in garden conditions, it is desired to very thoroughly ameliorate a heavy clay soil, in which case they may be placed every 20 feet. The better the fall the quicker the drain will act and the more permanent it will be, as it will tend to clean itself and not fill up with silt. It is important that the outlet be entirely free, and it should be protected with stones or mason work. The roots of some trees, particularly of willows and elms, are attracted by tile drains, and often fill up the pipes. When the drain goes near such trees, therefore, it is well to cement the joints. In general practice, however, the joints should not be cemented, because a large part of the drainage water enters at those places. In laying the tiles, it is well to cover the joints with inverted sod, tarred paper, wisps of straw, stones or other material. This prevents the fresh earth from falling in between the joints, and by the time the material is decayed the earth will have become so thoroughly set that no further trouble will result.

Although under-drains take off superfluous water, nevertheless an under-drained soil will hold more moisture than one which is not drained, particularly in the case of clay lands with high subsoils. This is because fine, mallow soils are able to hold more moisture than very loose and open or very dense and compact ones. A well constructed underdrain should last indefinitely.

DUTCHMAN'S PIPE. See _Aristolochia_.

ECHEVERIA. Tender succulents largely used for carpet bedding and rock gardens. _Echeveria secunda_ is sometimes called OLD-HEN-AND-CHICKENS, from the little plants that grow out from the stem of the parent plant and show around the edges of the rosette top; but the hardy Hen-and-Chickens of old gardens is a different but closely allied plant (_Sempervivum tectorum_). All the species are of easy culture and thrive on sandy soil. They should not be planted out until all danger of frost is over and the ground thoroughly warm. Propagated by the offsets.

Height 3 inches. The name Echeveria is now given up by botanists for _Cotyledon_.

EGG-PLANT. GUINEA SQUASH. Unless one has a greenhouse or a very warm hotbed, the growing of Egg-plants in the North should be left to the professional gardener, as the young plants are very tender, and should be grown without a check. The seed should be sown in the hotbed or greenhouse about April 10, keeping a temperature of from 65 to 70.

When the seedlings have made three rough leaves, they may be pricked out into shallow boxes, or, still better, into 3-inch pots. The pots or boxes should be plunged to the rim in soil in a hotbed or coldframe so situated that protection may be given on chilly nights. The 10th of June is early enough to plant them out in central New York. The soil in which they are to grow cannot well be made too rich, as they have only a short season in which to develop their fruits. The plants are usually set 3 feet apart each way. A dozen plants are sufficient for the needs of a large family, as each plant should yield from two to six large fruits.

The fruits are fit to eat at all stages of growth, from those the size of a large egg to their largest development. One ounce of seed will furnish 600 to 800 plants.

[Illustration: New York Purple Egg-plant]

The New York Improved Purple is the standard variety. Black Pekin is good. For early, or for a short-season climate, the Early Dwarf Purple is excellent.

ENDIVE. As a fall salad vegetable, this should be better known, it being far superior to lettuce at that time and as easily grown. For fall use, the seed may be sown from June to August, and as the plants become fit to eat about the same time from sowing as lettuce does, a succession may be had until cold weather. The plants will need protection from the severe fall frosts, and this may be given by carefully lifting the plants and transplanting to a frame, where sash or cloth may be used to cover them in freezing weather. The leaves, which constitute practically the whole plant, are blanched before being used, either by tying together with some soft material or by standing boards on each side of the row, allowing the top of the boards to meet over the center of the row. The rows should be 1 or 2 feet apart, the plants 1 foot apart in the rows. One ounce of seed will sow 150 feet of drill.

ESCHSCHOLTZIA. See _California Poppy_.

EUTOCA. Hardy early-flowering annuals having pink or blue flowers, good for masses. Sow seed early where wanted. Height 1 foot. Eutocas are properly classed with Phacelias.

EVERGREENS. Evergreens are plants which hold their foliage in winter.

Ordinarily, however, in this country the word Evergreen is understood to mean coniferous trees with persistent leaves, as pines, spruces, firs, cedars, junipers, arborvitae, retinosporas, and the like. These trees have always been favorites with plant lovers, as they have very distinctive forms and other characteristics. Many of them are of the easiest culture. It is a common notion that, since spruces and other conifers grow so symmetrically, they will not stand pruning; but this is an error. They may be pruned with as good effect as other trees, and if they tend to grow too tall the leader may be cut out without fear. A new leader will arise, but in the meantime the upward growth of the tree will be somewhat checked, and the effect will be to make the tree dense.

The tips of the branches may also be headed in with the same effect. The beauty of an Evergreen lies in its natural form; therefore, it should not be sheared into unusual shapes, but a gentle trimming back, as suggested, will tend to prevent the Norway spruce and others from growing open and ragged. After the tree attains some age, 4 or 5 inches may be taken off the ends of the main branches every year or two with good results. This slight trimming is ordinarily done with Waters'

long-handled pruning shears.

There is much difference of opinion as to the proper time for the transplanting of Evergreens, which means that there is more than one season in which they may be moved. It is ordinarily unsafe to transplant them in the fall in northern climates or bleak situations, since the evaporation from the foliage during the winter is likely to injure the plant. The best results are usually secured when they are transplanted just as new growth is beginning, rather late in the spring. Some people also plant them in August, and the roots secure a hold of the soil before winter. In transplanting conifers, it is very important that the roots be not exposed to the sun. They should be moistened and covered with burlaps or other material. The holes should be ready to receive them. If the trees are large, or if it has been necessary to trim in the roots, the top should be cut when the tree is set. Large Evergreens (those 10 feet and more high) are usually best transplanted late in winter, at a time when a large ball of earth may be moved with them. A trench is dug around the tree, it being deepened a little day by day so that the frost can work into the earth and hold it in shape. When the ball is thoroughly frozen, it is hoisted onto a stone-boat and moved to its new position.

For low hedges or screens, one of the most serviceable Evergreens is the arborvitae in its various forms. Red cedars are also useful. Perhaps the handsomest of all of them for such purposes is the ordinary hemlock spruce; but it is usually difficult to move. Transplanted trees from nurseries are usually safest. If the trees are taken from the wild, they should be selected from open and sunny places. For neat and compact effects near porches and along walks, the dwarf retinosporas are very useful. Most of the pines and spruces are too coarse for planting very close to the house. They are better at some distance removed, where they serve as a background to other planting. If they are wanted for individual specimens, they should be given plenty of room, so that the limbs will not be crowded and the tree become misshapen. Whatever else is done to the spruces and firs, the lower limbs should not be trimmed up, at least not until the tree has become so old that the lowest branches die. Some species hold their branches much longer than others.

The oriental spruce (_Picea orientalis_) is one of the best in this respect. The occasional slight heading-in, which we have mentioned, will tend to preserve the lower limbs, and it will not be marked enough to alter the form of the tree.

EVERLASTINGS are flowers which retain their shape and usually their color when they are dried. Most of them are members of the composite family. In order to have them hold shape and color, cut them with very long stems just before they are fully expanded, and hang them in an airy place away from the sun. They are all annuals, or grown as such, and are of very easy culture. Sow seeds where the plants are to stand. Good kinds are Ammobium, Gomphrena or Bachelor's Buttons, Rhodanthe, Helichrysum, Xeranthemum, and Acroclinium. Certain wild composites may be similarly used, particularly Anaphalis and species of Gnaphalium.

Some of the grasses make excellent additions to dry bouquets (see _Grass_). With these dry bouquets, various seed pods look well.

FENZLIA. Little hardy annuals, having a profusion of bloom through the entire summer. The flowers are a delicate pink, with yellow throat surrounded by dark spots. A charming edging plant or window box subject.

Sow the seed in boxes or where plants are wanted, and thin to the distance of 10 inches. Height 3 to 4 inches. Now classed with Gilia.

FERNS. Probably the one Fern grown most extensively as a house plant is the small-leaved Maidenhair Fern (or _Adiantum gracillimum_). This and other species are among the finest of house plants, when sufficient moisture can be given. They make fine specimens, as well as serving the purpose of greenery for cut-flowers. Other species often grown for house plants are _A. cuneatum_ and _A. Capillus-Veneris_. All these do well in a mixture of fibrous sod, loam, and sand, with ample drainage material.

They may be divided if an increase is wanted.

Other Ferns for house culture include _Nephrolepis exaltata_. This is no doubt the most easily grown of the list, flourishing in a sitting-room.

The new variety of _N. exaltata_, called the Boston Fern (see figure), is a decided addition to this family, having a drooping habit, covering the pot and making a fine stand or bracket plant.

[Illustration: Boston Fern]

Several species of Pteris, particularly _P. serrulata_, are valuable house Ferns, but require a warmer situation than those mentioned above.

They will also thrive better in a shady or ill-lighted corner.

Perfect drainage and care in watering have more to do with the successful growing of Ferns than any special mixture of soils. If the drainage material in the bottom of the pot or box is sufficient, there is little danger of over-watering; but water-logged soil is always to be avoided. Do not use clay soils. Ferns need protection from the direct sunshine, and also a moist atmosphere. They thrive well in a close glass box, or window-garden, if the conditions can be kept equable.