Add the scallions and the rice and pour in 4 h h cups water. Add turmeric, if you like-it will give the soup a pale-yellow tinge and a faint tangy taste. cups water. Add turmeric, if you like-it will give the soup a pale-yellow tinge and a faint tangy taste.

Season with salt and pepper, and simmer gently for about 18 minutes, until the rice is cooked. It should not be allowed to get too soft or mushy.

Beat the yogurt with the garlic and pour into the soup, beating vigorously. Heat through, but do not let the soup boil, or the yogurt will curdle.

Madzoune Teladmadj Abour Armenian Yogurt Soup with Pasta Serves 6 * A simple and delightful Armenian peasant soup. * A simple and delightful Armenian peasant soup.

1 large onion, chopped 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or vegetable oil 4 cups chicken stock (page 143) (or you may use 2 or 3 bouillon cubes) 1-1 cups dry vermicelli, crushed into small pieces in your hands Salt and white pepper 4 cups plain whole-milk yogurt cup crushed dried mint Saute the chopped onion in the b.u.t.ter or oil in a large saucepan until soft. Add the stock and bring to the boil. Add the vermicelli and cook 5 minutes, until tender.

Just before serving, beat the yogurt. Pour into the soup gradually, beating vigorously, and heat to just below boiling. Do not allow the soup to boil, or it will curdle. Season to taste with salt and white pepper.

Serve, garnished with dried crushed mint.

Variations * In another version of this soup, the yogurt is stabilized with eggs so that it can be cooked without curdling. Beat the yogurt with 2 lightly beaten eggs in a pan and bring to the boil slowly, stirring constantly in the same direction. Pour this into the stock with the vermicelli and simmer gently until the soup thickens a little.

* Instead of vermicelli use cup pearl barley. Soak it overnight. Then drain, and simmer over low heat for 1 hour, or until the barley is swollen and soft. Continue as above. This is called tanabour tanabour.

Eshkeneh Shirazi Persian Yogurt Soup with Walnuts and Fenugreek Serves 6 * A specialty of the city of Shiraz. The herb fenugreek, called * A specialty of the city of Shiraz. The herb fenugreek, called shanbalileh shanbalileh, gives the soup a very pleasant, slightly bitter flavor. It is not easy to find fresh. Chopped walnuts add texture.

3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 3 tablespoons flour 4 cups chicken stock (page 143) (or you may use 2 bouillon cubes) Salt and pepper cup walnut halves, chopped 4 tablespoons dried fenugreek leaves 3 cups plain whole-milk yogurt Melt the b.u.t.ter in a large pan. Add the flour and stir over very low heat for a few minutes, until well blended. Pour in a ladle of stock, beating vigorously to keep lumps from forming. Add the rest of the stock gradually, stirring constantly. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and bring to the boil slowly, stirring often.

Add the walnuts and fenugreek and simmer, covered, for 15 minutes, until the soup thickens a little and has lost any floury taste.

Just before serving, pour the yogurt into the simmering soup, beating vigorously. Leave over low heat until it comes to just below boiling point, but do not allow the soup to boil, or it will curdle. Add a little salt and pepper, taking into account the saltiness of the stock.

Serve immediately.

Brudu bil Hout Fish Soup with Tomatoes and Potatoes Serves 4 * For this spicy and aromatic Tunisian soup, use any firm white fish, like cod or haddock, and serve it as a main course. * For this spicy and aromatic Tunisian soup, use any firm white fish, like cod or haddock, and serve it as a main course.

4 tomatoes, peeled and quartered 1 pound potatoes, peeled and quartered 4 cups water 1 tablespoon tomato paste V4- teaspoon harissa (page 464), or good pinch of ground chili pepper and teaspoon paprika - teaspoon c.u.min 4 cloves garlic, chopped Juice of lemon Salt 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 pound white fish fillets, skinned cup chopped flat-leaf parsley or cilantro 3 or 4 sprigs of mint, finely chopped Put all the ingredients except the oil, fish, and herbs together in a pan. Simmer for 20 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender.

Stir in the oil and add the fish. Cook another 10 minutes. Then gently break up the fillets into smaller pieces, add the parsley or cilantro and the mint, and serve.

s...o...b..t Samak Beid ab Lamouna Egg-and-Lemon Fish Soup Serves 6 * You find the egg-and-lemon finish, also called * You find the egg-and-lemon finish, also called bel tarbeyah bel tarbeyah, in all Middle Eastern countries. In Greece it is the famous avgole-mono avgole-mono. Use skinned fish fillets-white fish such as cod or haddock-or have a mixture of seafood including peeled shrimp and, if you like, a handful of mussels (to clean and steam mussels, see page 198).

6 cups fish or chicken bouillon (use 2 fish or chicken bouillon cubes) V4 teaspoon saffron powder or threads or teaspoon turmeric (optional) 2 ounces vermicelli, broken into small pieces, or little pasta like orzo (they are called lissan al a.s.sfour lissan al a.s.sfour, bird's tongues, in Arabic) 2 pounds skinned fish fillets, or I pounds fillets with pound shrimp and a dozen or so mussels 3 eggs Juice of 1-2 lemons or 3-4 tablespoons white-wine vinegar Salt and pepper 1 teaspoon cinnamon to garnish (optional) Bring the stock to a boil in a large pan. Add the saffron, vermicelli, and fish fillets, cut into pieces, and cook 3-6 minutes, until the vermicelli is tender and the fish begins to flake. Add the seafood, if using, for the last 2-3 minutes of cooking.

In a bowl, beat the eggs with the lemon juice. Add a ladle of the liquid soup and beat well. Then pour the egg mixture into the soup and stir for a minute or so over low heat, until the soup thickens a little. Do not let it boil, or the eggs will curdle. Taste and add salt and pepper.

Serve at once, dusted, if you like, with cinnamon.

Variation A Tunisian version has 1 tablespoon tomato paste, 2 large boiled potatoes cut into pieces, and 3 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley or cilantro added to the stock.

Harira Moroccan Bean Soup Serves 10 * This is the much-loved national soup of Morocco. During the holy month of Ramadan, when Muslims fast between sunrise and sunset, the smell permeates the streets as every household prepares its own version to be eaten when the sound of the cannon signals the breaking of the fast at sunset. It is eaten with dates and honeyed cakes. A particular feature is the way it is given what is described in Morocco as a "velvety" touch by stirring in a yeasty batter or simply flour mixed with water. * This is the much-loved national soup of Morocco. During the holy month of Ramadan, when Muslims fast between sunrise and sunset, the smell permeates the streets as every household prepares its own version to be eaten when the sound of the cannon signals the breaking of the fast at sunset. It is eaten with dates and honeyed cakes. A particular feature is the way it is given what is described in Morocco as a "velvety" touch by stirring in a yeasty batter or simply flour mixed with water.

2 marrow bones, washed (optional) 1 pound lamb or beef, cut into -inch pieces 1 pound small whole onions, peeled, or 2 large ones, coa.r.s.ely chopped 1 cup chickpeas or beans (haricot, navy, or fava), soaked overnight cup large brown lentils, washed 1 pound ripe tomatoes, chopped 4 stalks celery with leaves, diced 1 tablespoon tomato paste 1 teaspoon pepper teaspoon ground ginger teaspoon saffron threads or powder Salt 5 tablespoons all-purpose flour cup rice or crushed vermicelli (optional) cup chopped cilantro cup chopped flat-leaf parsley 3 lemons, cut into wedges Blanch the bones in boiling water for a few minutes and throw out the water. Put the meat and bones in a large pan with the onions and the chickpeas or beans. Cover with about 12 cups water and bring to the boil. Remove the sc.u.m and simmer, covered, for 1-2 hours. Add the drained lentils and tomatoes, the celery and tomato paste, pepper, ginger, and saffron and simmer a further 15 minutes, adding water if necessary. Add salt when the lentils begin to soften. This part of the cooking can be done hours in advance.

In a small pan, beat 2 cups of cold water gradually and vigorously into the flour so as not to have any lumps. Add a ladle of broth from the soup and stir over low heat until the mixture begins to boil. Simmer for 10 minutes until it thickens.

If you are adding rice or vermicelli to the soup, it is best not to put it in long before serving, as it gets bloated and mushy. Stir in the rice and cook 15 minutes, or the crushed vermicelli and cook 5 minutes.

Pour the flour-and-broth batter into the soup, stirring vigorously. Add the chopped cilantro and parsley and cook a few minutes more, until the soup acquires a light, creamy texture.

Serve with lemon wedges.

Harira bel Djaj Chicken and Chickpea Soup Serves 10 * Another Moroccan soup, this one too makes a good meal to serve at a party. * Another Moroccan soup, this one too makes a good meal to serve at a party.

A 3-pound chicken 2 cups chickpeas, soaked in water overnight 1 large onion, coa.r.s.ely chopped 5 tomatoes, peeled and chopped Pepper - teaspoon ground ginger 1 teaspoon cinnamon Salt 4 ounces vermicelli, crushed into bits with your hand cup chopped flat-leaf parsley cup chopped cilantro 5 lemons, cut in wedges, to serve with Put the chicken in a large pan with 3 quarts of water. Bring to the boil and remove the sc.u.m. Add the chickpeas, onion, tomatoes, and some pepper, and simmer, covered, for I hours, until the chickpeas are soft. Add the ginger, cinnamon, and salt when the chickpeas begin to soften.

Lift out the chicken, remove the skin and bones, and cut up into small pieces. Return to the pan and add more water if necessary. Add the vermicelli, parsley, and cilantro and cook a few minutes until the vermicelli are tender.

Serve hot, accompanied by lemon wedges.

Variations Here are two traditional ways of thickening the soup at the end if you wish: Just before serving, beat 3 eggs with a ladle of the broth from the soup, then pour this into the soup, stirring vigorously for a few seconds without letting the soup boil (or the eggs will curdle).

Add 4 tablespoons flour mixed to a light cream with a few tablespoons cold water, and stir vigorously, then simmer for 5 to 10 minutes.

Ab Ghooshte Fasl Iranian Bean and Vegetable Soup Serves 6-8 * A measure of the importance of soups measure of the importance of soups (ash) (ash) in Iran is that a cook is called an in Iran is that a cook is called an ash-paz ash-paz, which means "maker of soup." This substantial soup with a great mix of beans makes a good winter meal. In Iran it is served with bread and bunches of fresh herbs such as cress, mint, cilantro, and also scallions, radishes, and pickles.

It is the type of soup you will find in the bazaar at the earliest hours of the morning, dished out for breakfast from huge cauldrons in which a sheep's head and feet have given their special richness, and where all the vegetables in season find their place.

cup dried white haricot or navy beans, soaked overnight cup yellow split peas, washed cup black-eyed peas, washed cup large brown lentils, washed 1 pound lamb (shoulder or shank) or stewing beef, whole or in large pieces 1 large onion, thickly sliced Salt and pepper 1 teaspoon cinnamon teaspoon turmeric cup chopped flat-leaf parsley 4 tomatoes, skinned 1 large eggplant, cubed 2 green bell peppers, cut into small pieces 4 small potatoes, peeled and halved Put the drained beans and the washed peas and lentils in a large saucepan with the meat and onion and about 2 quarts of water. Bring to the boil, remove the sc.u.m, and simmer for an hour or more, until the meat and beans are very tender, adding salt, pepper, and spices when the beans have begun to soften.

Take out the meat, cut it up into small pieces, and put it back into the pan. Put in the vegetables and cook h h hour more, or until the vegetables are done, adding water if necessary. hour more, or until the vegetables are done, adding water if necessary.

Variation You may add a handful of dried apricots or pitted prunes at the same time as the meat.

Dugun corbasi Turkish Wedding Soup Serves 8 * In this famous Turkish soup, the stock is thickened first with a b.u.t.ter-and-flour roux, and then again with an egg-and-lemon finish. * In this famous Turkish soup, the stock is thickened first with a b.u.t.ter-and-flour roux, and then again with an egg-and-lemon finish.

1 or 2 marrow bones, washed (optional) I pounds lamb or beef, cubed 10 cups water 1 carrot 1 onion Salt and pepper 7 tablespoons b.u.t.ter V4 cup flour 3 egg yolks Juice of 1 lemon 2 teaspoons paprika or teaspoon chili-pepper flakes (optional) Blanch the marrow bones, if using, in boiling water for a few minutes, and throw the water out. Put the meat and bones in a pan with the water and bring to the boil. Remove the sc.u.m, and add the carrot, onion, salt, and pepper. Simmer for I-2 hours, or until the meat is so tender it falls apart. Lift out the meat, bones, and vegetables. Cut the meat into small pieces and return to the pan. Push the marrow out of the bones into the pan.

In another pan, melt 4 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter and stir in the flour. Add a ladle of the meat stock, stirring vigorously to keep lumps from forming. Bring to the boil, stirring constantly, then add another ladle of stock, and bring to the boil again, stirring. Pour into the soup pan, stirring vigorously, and simmer for at least 10 minutes.

Just before serving, beat the egg yolks and lemon juice in a small bowl, then beat in a ladle of the hot stock. Pour this into the simmering soup, stirring vigorously. Heat through, but do not let it boil, or the eggs will curdle.

Melt the remaining 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter, stir in the paprika or chili-pepper flakes, and dribble a little over each individual serving.

s...o...b..t el Fata Bread Soup Serves 6 * This Egyptian feast-day soup which is eaten seventy days after Ramadan is made of the leftover meat and bones of a sacrificial lamb. It is the custom to slay a lamb in the name of G.o.d, and to distribute the meat among the poor. The family of the donor must eat some of the lamb in order to benefit from the sacrifice, and this soup is a good way of doing so. * This Egyptian feast-day soup which is eaten seventy days after Ramadan is made of the leftover meat and bones of a sacrificial lamb. It is the custom to slay a lamb in the name of G.o.d, and to distribute the meat among the poor. The family of the donor must eat some of the lamb in order to benefit from the sacrifice, and this soup is a good way of doing so.

1 or 2 marrow bones (washed) 1 pound lamb, cubed 2 quarts water Salt and pepper cup rice, washed and drained 3 rounds small Arab or pita breads 2-4 cloves garlic, crushed 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or vegetable oil 3-4 tablespoons wine vinegar 3 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley Blanch the marrow bones in boiling water for a few minutes, then throw out the water. Put the meat and bones in a large pan with the 2 quarts water. Bring to the boil, remove the sc.u.m, add salt and pepper, and simmer for about 2 hours, until the meat is tender. Add water as necessary. There should be plenty of liquid.

Twenty minutes before serving add the rice, and continue to simmer until it is cooked but not mushy.

Split open the Arab or pita breads. Toast them under the broiler or in the oven until they are crisp and lightly browned. Arrange in the bottom of a soup tureen. Fry the crushed garlic in hot b.u.t.ter or oil until the aroma rises. Sprinkle with vinegar, bring to the boil, and pour over the toasted bread. Allow the toast to become well soaked; then pour the soup over it and serve, garnished with parsley.

This method of serving soup over toasted and seasoned bread is a familiar one in the Middle East, and is also used with stews.

Armenian Meat Soup with Bulgur Serves

6.

1 pound lamb shank or knuckle of veal 2 quarts cold water 1 carrot 1 onion 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon Salt and pepper cup bulgur (cracked wheat) 3 tablespoons finely chopped parsley to garnish Put the meat in a large pan with the water and bring to the boil. Remove the sc.u.m. Add the carrot and onion, both whole, and the cinnamon. Season with salt and pepper, and simmer gently, covered, for 1-2 hours, or until the meat is very tender, adding water as needed. Remove the vegetables. Lift out the meat, cut it up into pieces, and put it back in the pan. Add the bulgur and simmer for about 15 minutes, until it is tender. Add more water if the porridge becomes too thick. The bulgur will absorb a lot of liquid and expand considerably. Serve garnished with parsley.

Egg Dishes BEID.

Eggs have a very important place in the Middle Eastern kitchen. In medieval times, they were used-poached or hard-boiled-as a garnish for various types of dishes, and this custom has continued to the present day. In Islamic Spain omelets were ubiquitous. Arab omelets are more like a flan or a cake, firm right through, and bursting with filling-not unlike the Spanish tortilla tortilla, to which they are related. They are very popular, served hot or cold, as an appetizer, a first course, a main dish, or a side dish. They are also picnic favorites. They are called kuku kuku in Persia, in Persia, eggah eggah in Egypt, and p.r.o.nounced in Egypt, and p.r.o.nounced ajja ajja in other Arab countries. in other Arab countries.

Beid Masluq Hard-Boiled Eggs with c.u.min Prepare hard-boiled eggs in the usual way. Peel them, cut them in half, and sprinkle with salt and ground c.u.min. Or serve whole, accompanied by a small bowl of salt mixed with about twice as much c.u.min to dip the eggs in. Serve as an appetizer.

Vendors sell the eggs in the street accompanied by little cornets of rolled-up newspaper filled with a thimbleful of seasoning-a mix of salt, c.u.min, and sometimes coriander-to dip in. In North Africa, the eggs are peeled, then gently simmered in water with a little saffron or turmeric and salt. This gives them a brilliant yellow color.

Beid bi Tom Fried Eggs with Garlic and Lemon Serves 3-6 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 2 cloves garlic, crushed Juice of lemon or 1 teaspoon sumac 6 eggs Crushed dried mint to garnish Melt the b.u.t.ter in a large skillet, or use 2 smaller ones. Add the garlic and lemon or sumac. Slide in the eggs, previously broken into a bowl, and continue to fry gently.

Rub some dried mint in the palm of your hand, letting it sprinkle over the eggs. When the whites are set, remove the pan from the heat, sprinkle lightly with salt, and serve.

cilbir Poached Eggs with Yogurt Serves 1-2 * This Turkish way of embellishing poached eggs is also good with fried eggs. * This Turkish way of embellishing poached eggs is also good with fried eggs.

1 tablespoon vinegar to poach the eggs Salt 4 tablespoons plain whole-milk yogurt, at room temperature 1 small clove garlic, crushed (optional) 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter teaspoon paprika 2 eggs Fill a pan with enough water to cover the eggs. Add vinegar and salt, bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to lowest.

Beat the yogurt with the garlic. Melt the b.u.t.ter with the paprika.

Break each egg into a cup and slide it into the pan of water. Cook for 1-2 minutes, until the whites have set. Lift out with a perforated spoon and serve at once.

Sprinkle with a little salt, pour 2 tablespoons of yogurt over each egg, and dribble b.u.t.ter and paprika over the yogurt.

Variation For a Lebanese mountain dish, beyd bi laban beyd bi laban, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a skillet, break in the eggs, and sprinkle with salt. Cook over low heat, stirring gently, to scramble them lightly. Before they set, when they are still runny, stir in 1 cup yogurt (at room temperature) and serve with bread.

Beid bi Khal Scrambled Eggs with Vinegar Serves 4 * In a skillet, soften 2 or 3 crushed garlic cloves over low heat in 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter until they just begin to color. Beat 6 eggs lightly and season with salt and pepper. Pour into the pan and cook over gentle heat, stirring constantly. Add 2-3 tablespoons wine vinegar and stir to a creamy consistency. * In a skillet, soften 2 or 3 crushed garlic cloves over low heat in 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter until they just begin to color. Beat 6 eggs lightly and season with salt and pepper. Pour into the pan and cook over gentle heat, stirring constantly. Add 2-3 tablespoons wine vinegar and stir to a creamy consistency.

Beid bitamatem Eggs with Tomatoes Serves 4 2 cloves garlic, crushed cloves garlic, crushed 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 1 pound tomatoes, peeled and chopped 1 teaspoon sugar Salt and pepper 2 tablespoons chopped mint leaves or flat-leaf parsley 4 eggs In a large skillet, heat the garlic in the oil, then add the tomatoes, sugar, salt, and pepper.

Cook for 10 minutes and stir in the mint or parsley. Crack the eggs open and drop them whole into this sauce. Cook until they set.

Variations * You may stir the eggs a little to have a creamy scramble.

* Fry 1 chopped onion in 2 tablespoons of oil till golden before adding the garlic.

Beid bi Gebna Maqli Fried Cheese with Eggs Serves 1 * This is usually prepared in individual portions in two-handled frying pans and served in the same pans straight from the fire. You can, of course, use one large frying pan, or as many as are convenient. In the Middle East, the hard, dry Greek cheeses kashkaval, kefalotyri, or ka.s.seri and the white, firm, slightly rubbery halumi are used. * This is usually prepared in individual portions in two-handled frying pans and served in the same pans straight from the fire. You can, of course, use one large frying pan, or as many as are convenient. In the Middle East, the hard, dry Greek cheeses kashkaval, kefalotyri, or ka.s.seri and the white, firm, slightly rubbery halumi are used.

1 thick slice cheese Flour (optional) 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter or extra-virgin olive oil Juice of lemon (optional) 1 egg Salt and pepper Some people dip the slice of cheese in flour before frying it, but this is not really necessary. Fry the cheese in hot b.u.t.ter or oil. When it begins to melt, sprinkle with lemon juice if you like, and open the egg over it. Cook until the white sets. Sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper (taking into consideration the saltiness of the cheese), and serve piping hot.

Feta Cheese with Egg Serves 1 1 clove garlic 1 teaspoon ground coriander 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 slices feta cheese 1 egg 1 tomato, chopped (optional) on a small frying pan, fry the garlic with the co-iander in 1 tablespoon oil for moments only, until the aroma rises.

Lay the slices of cheese on top and leave over medium heat until the cheese begins to all apart. Break open the egg over it, and if you you like, surround with chopped tomato. like, surround with chopped tomato.

Cook until the egg is done to your liking. My cousin Steve, who gave me this recipe, puts 1 lid on so that the top of the egg becomes opaque and misty. Eat with a dribble of the remaining oil.

Shakshouka Eggs with Bell Peppers and Tomatoes Serves 4 * A dish of Tunisian origin that is eaten in most Middle Eastern countries, it makes an ideal snack meal. There are many versions. I like this one, called "nablia," which is a specialty of Nabeul. * A dish of Tunisian origin that is eaten in most Middle Eastern countries, it makes an ideal snack meal. There are many versions. I like this one, called "nablia," which is a specialty of Nabeul.

2 red or green bell peppers, cut into ribbons 3 tablespoons vegetable or extra-virgin olive oil 3-4 cloves garlic, sliced 4 medium tomatoes, peeled and cut in quarters Salt and pepper 4 eggs In a large skillet over medium heat, fry the peppers in the oil, stirring and turning them over, until they soften. Add the garlic, and when it just begins to color, add the tomatoes, salt, and pepper. Cook until the tomatoes soften. a large skillet over medium heat, fry the peppers in the oil, stirring and turning them over, until they soften. Add the garlic, and when it just begins to color, add the tomatoes, salt, and pepper. Cook until the tomatoes soften.

Drop the eggs in whole, season again lightly with salt, and cook until the eggs set. Alternatively, you may stir the eggs gently and cook until creamy.

Serve hot with bread.

Variations In Tunisia they add teaspoon harissa (see page 464), or V4 teaspoon ground chili pepper and 1 teaspoon caraway seeds, or 1 preserved lemon peel (see page 459), cut into pieces, and 2 tablespoons capers.

Add 3 medium-sized cooked potatoes, cut into niprpc Fry 2 sliced zucchini or 1 small eggplant, cut into cubes, at the same time as the peppers.

Fry 1 sliced onion in the oil till golden, instead of the garlic.

Shakshouka with Merguez Serves 4 * This makes a lovely snack meal. Merguez are spicy North African sausages. If you cannot find them, you can subst.i.tute hot Cajun or Creole sausages. * This makes a lovely snack meal. Merguez are spicy North African sausages. If you cannot find them, you can subst.i.tute hot Cajun or Creole sausages.