2 pounds orange peel 2 pounds sugar 4 cups water Juice of lemon Boil the peel in water for about hour, until soft. Drain. If using the peel of ordinary oranges, soak in fresh cold water for a day, changing the water once or twice if possible. If using bitter orange peel, it should be left to soak for 4 days, and the water should be changed twice a day.

If the peel is very pithy, sc.r.a.pe some of the white pith away with a spoon, to make it less pasty. Roll the strips of peel up one by one, and thread them onto a thick thread, like beads on a necklace, to prevent them from unrolling.

Make a syrup in a large pan. Boil the sugar and water with the lemon juice, and simmer until the sugar has melted. Drop the necklace in and simmer for about 1 hour, until the peel has absorbed the syrup thoroughly. Lift out, remove the thread, and drop the peel rolls into a clean gla.s.s jar.

If the syrup is not thick enough, boil vigorously to reduce it until it coats the back of a spoon. Cool slightly, and pour over the orange peel to cover it completely. Close the jar tightly. It should last for months.

Serve the rolls of peel either with some of their syrup, or drained and rolled in granulated sugar like crystallized fruits.

Tangerine Jam This magnificent jam makes a delicious ready dessert that can be served with thick cream.

2 pounds tangerines 2 pounds sugar Cut the tangerines in half. Squeeze out the juice and keep, covered, in the refrigerator.

Remove the thin membranes which separate the segments and fibers inside the peel. Then simmer the peels in water for about 7-10 minutes until soft. Drain, cover with a fresh portion of cold water, and soak for 12 hours or overnight, changing the water once or twice if possible, to get rid of all the bitterness.

Drain the peel and chop it roughly.

Pour the reserved tangerine juice into a large pan. Add the sugar and chopped peel and bring to the boil. Simmer for 15-30 minutes, until the syrup thickens and forms a firm jelly when a drop is left on a cold plate. Let the jam cool slightly, then pour into clean jars and seal tightly.

Strawberry Preserve 2 pounds barely ripe strawberries, preferably wild ones 2 pounds sugar Juice of lemon Hull the strawberries and wash them very briefly if necessary. Spread layers in a bowl with sugar in between, and leave them to macerate for 12 hours or overnight. The sugar will draw out their juices.

Transfer the strawberries and their juices to a large pan. Add the lemon juice and bring to the boil very slowly, stirring gently with a wooden spoon or shaking the pan lightly, and skimming off the white froth as it rises to the surface. Simmer for 5-10 minutes, depending on the ripeness of the fruit. Wild strawberries will require only 5 minutes, sometimes even less.

When the strawberries are soft, lift them out gently with a slotted spoon and pack them into clean gla.s.s jars. Let the syrup simmer for a little while longer, until it has thickened enough to coat the back of a spoon, or until it sets when tested on a cold plate. Pour over the strawberries and, when cool, close the jars tightly.

Date Preserve in Syrup This exquisite delicacy makes a ready dessert. Accompany if you like with vanilla ice cream or mascarpone. It is made with fresh dates- the yellow or red varieties, which are hard and sour and totally different from the dried dates with which people in America are familiar. (They are called zaghlouli zaghlouli in Egypt.) It is usual to peel them, but that is an arduous task and, in my view, not all that much worth the effort. They are stuffed with blanched almonds, with which they make a lovely combination. in Egypt.) It is usual to peel them, but that is an arduous task and, in my view, not all that much worth the effort. They are stuffed with blanched almonds, with which they make a lovely combination.

2 pounds fresh yellow or red dates Juice of lemon - cup blanched almonds (optional) 4 cups sugar 8 cloves Wash the dates well, peel them if you wish, and put them in a pan with water to cover (about 4 cups) and the lemon juice. Bring to the boil and simmer, covered, for 1 hour, or until they are soft, adding a little water, if necessary, to keep them covered.

Lift them out of their water with a slotted spoon, and when they are cool enough to handle, push the pits out with a skewer or knitting needle. You will get the knack of doing it without breaking the dates. It helps to press them tightly in your hand. If you like, replace each pit with a blanched almond through the same hole.

Add sugar and cloves to the date liquor and bring to the boil. Simmer for a few minutes, until the sugar is dissolved, then drop in the dates and cook for a further 20-30 minutes. Lift the dates out carefully with a slotted spoon and put them in a clean gla.s.s jar, burying the cloves among them.

Thicken the syrup by boiling until it coats the back of a spoon or sets when tested on a cold plate. Pour over the dates, let cool, and close the jar tightly.

Variation These dates are also delicious stuffed with pieces of candied orange peel; use about 1 cup.

Clementine Preserve This must be done with the very tiny clemen-tines. Wash them well and cover with cold water overnight to get rid of some of the bitterness of the skin.

Make a syrup by boiling 4 cups of water and 2 pounds of sugar.

Drain the fruit and p.r.i.c.k each one all over with a needle. Drop them into the syrup and simmer for about an hour. Lift them out with a slotted spoon, and transfer to a clean gla.s.s jar.

Reduce the syrup very much, until it is thick enough to coat a spoon, and pour it over the fruit. Let it cool before closing the jar tightly.

Apricot Preserve 2 pounds fresh apricots 3 cups sugar Wash and pit the apricots. Layer them, with sugar in between the layers, in a large bowl, and leave them overnight to macerate and release their juices.

The following day, pour the contents of the bowl into a large pan. Bring to the boil very slowly, and simmer gently over medium heat for about 20 minutes, or until the apricots are soft and the juices reduced and thickened enough to set when tested on a cold plate. Stir occasionally, to prevent the fruit from sticking to the bottom of the pan and burning.

Let the jam cool in the pan, then pour into clean gla.s.s jars and close tightly.

Apricots in Syrup Use the same proportions of apricots to sugar as in the preceding recipe for apricot preserve. Wash and pit the apricots. Bring the sugar to the boil with 2 cups water and the juice of 1 1 lemon, and simmer for a few minutes. Drop in the apricots and cook gently for 15-20 minutes, until soft. Lift them out carefully with a slotted spoon and put them in clean gla.s.s jars. lemon, and simmer for a few minutes. Drop in the apricots and cook gently for 15-20 minutes, until soft. Lift them out carefully with a slotted spoon and put them in clean gla.s.s jars.

Reduce and thicken the syrup by boiling it down until it falls in heavy drops from a spoon. Cool slightly, and pour over the fruit, covering it entirely. Let cool before closing the jar tightly.

Green Walnut Preserve A delicacy which should be attempted whenever green walnuts are available.

1pound fresh sh.e.l.led green walnuts 2 cups sugar 2cups water 1 tablespoon lemon juice 4 or 5 cloves Sh.e.l.l the walnuts carefully, trying not to break them. Soak them in cold water for 5 or 6 days, changing the water twice a day to remove any bitterness.

Make a syrup by boiling the sugar and water with lemon juice until thickened enough to fall in heavy drops from a spoon. Let the syrup cool, then add the well-drained walnuts. Bring to the boil gently and simmer for hour. Remove the pan from the heat and leave the walnuts submerged in the syrup overnight at room temperature.

The following day, add the cloves, bring to the boil again, and simmer for hour. Pour the walnuts and syrup into a clean gla.s.s jar, allow to cool, and close tightly.

Pumpkin Slices in Syrup This Kurdish preserve makes a ready sweet to serve with chopped walnuts or clotted cream.

2 pounds orange pumpkin (weight free of skin, fibers, and seeds) 4 cups sugar 2 cups water A squeeze of lemon juice Cut the peel off the pumpkin and remove seeds and fibers, then cut the flesh into slices about inch thick and 2 inches long.

Bring the sugar and water with the lemon juice to a boil in a large pan. Drop the pumpkin pieces in and cook for 15-20 minutes, or until tender.

Lift out the pieces with a slotted spoon and drop them into gla.s.s jars. Reduce the syrup until it is thick enough to coat a spoon, and pour over the pumpkin pieces. Let it cool before closing the jars tightly.

Pumpkin Conserve 2 pounds orange pumpkin (weight free of skin, fibers, and seeds) 3-4 cups sugar 1 tablespoon lemon juice teaspoon mastic (see page 44) - cup slivered almonds Grate the pumpkin flesh into thick shreds and arrange alternate layers of pumpkin and sugar (the jam lasts longer with the larger amount of sugar) in a large bowl. Leave overnight at room temperature, covered, for the pumpkin juices to be drawn out.

Put all the contents of the bowl and the lemon juice into a large pan. Bring to the boi slowly, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon to make sure that it does not stick at the bottom. Cook, uncovered, over low heat for 10-20 minutes, until the pumpkin is soft and translucent and the syrup has thickened. Drop a little on a cold plate to see if it sets.

Pound or grind the mastic to a powder with a pinch of sugar and mix thoroughly into the jam. Cook 1 minute more, and stir in the slivered almonds.

Pour into clean, warm, dry gla.s.s jars. Let cool before closing.

Store in a cool place.

Variation As an alternative flavoring instead of mastic, stir in 1 teaspoon cardamom seeds or ground cardamom at the start of the cooking.

Green Fig Preserve You can serve this with thick cream or mascar-pone, or with vanilla ice cream. For the preserve to last a long time, it needs the same weight of sugar as of figs. If you will be eating it within 2 weeks you can make it much less sweet, but keep it in the refrigerator.

2 pounds young green figs 4 cups sugar 2 cups water Juice of lemon 1 tablespoon orange-blossom water or a few drops of vanilla extract (optional) Choose small, unblemished, slightly underripe figs. Do not peel them, but trim their stems, leaving only a little part, and wash them care-fully.

In a large pan, boil the sugar and water with the lemon juice for a few minutes, until slightly thickened. Soak the figs in this syrup overnight. The following day, bring to the boil and simmer for 15 minutes, or until the figs are soft. Lift them out with a slotted spoon and put them in clean gla.s.s jars.

Reduce the syrup by simmering for a few minutes longer, until it is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Add orange-blossom water or vanilla extract, mix well, and cook for a minute or so.

Let the syrup cool, and pour over the figs, then close the jars tightly.

Dried Fig Jam with Mastic, Aniseed, and Walnuts The flavors here are rich and exciting.

2 pounds dried figs 2 cups sugar 2cups water Juice of lemon 1 teaspoon ground aniseed 3tablespoons pine nuts 1 cup walnuts, coa.r.s.ely chopped teaspoon pulverized mastic (optional) Chop the figs roughly.

Boil the sugar and water with the lemon juice for a few minutes, then add the figs, and simmer gently until they are soft and impregnated with the syrup, which should have thickened enough to coat the back of a spoon. Stir constantly to avoid burning.

Add the aniseed, pine nuts and walnuts, and the mastic if you like. (To be properly pulverized, the mastic must have been pounded or ground with a pinch of sugar.) Stir well, and cook a few minutes longer.

Pour into clean gla.s.s jars and let it cool, then close tightly.

Wishna Sour Cherry Jam This can be served as a sweet, with thick cream to accompany. Or plunge 1-2 tablespoons of it into a gla.s.s of iced water, then drink the syrupy water and eat the fruit left at the bottom. Use an olive pitter to pit the cherries.

2 pounds pitted sour or morello cherries 4 cups sugar Juice of lemon (optional) Layer the pitted cherries and sugar in a large gla.s.s or earthenware bowl, and leave them to macerate and release their juices overnight.

The following day, pour the cherries and juice into a large pan and bring to the boil very slowly, stirring frequently to prevent them from burning. Let the cherries simmer in their own juice for about hour, or until very soft, adding a little water only if necessary. If the syrup is still too thin at the end, remove the cherries carefully to gla.s.s jars with a perforated spoon and simmer for a few minutes longer, until it coats the back of a spoon. A little lemon juice is sometimes added during the cooking.

Pour into clean gla.s.s jars, let it cool, and close tightly.

Quince Preserve We start getting large quinces from Cyprus at the beginning of October, and later in the year smaller ones arrive from Iran and Turkey. I buy them as soon as I see them, and they last a pretty long time without going bad. Their heavenly scent pervades the whole house. In America they are available in the fall in farmers' markets.

2 pounds quinces Juice of lemon 4 cups sugar Wash the quinces and rub off the gray down that covers them. Cut them in half and cut away the black ends, but do not remove the cores and pips, because these produce the jelly. You will need a large, strong knife and plenty of force to cut them: They are very hard. Put them in a pan with water barely to cover them and the lemon juice. Bring to the boil and simmer for 20-45 minutes, or until they are just tender. The time varies. It depends on the size and degree of maturity of the fruit. Lift them out carefully with a slotted spoon, and when they are cold enough to handle, quarter them, peel them, core them, and cut them into small slices.

Add sugar to the water left in the pan. Bring to the boil, and simmer until the syrup is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Return the quince pieces to the pan and cook for 20-30 minutes, until they are soft. The syrup keeps them firm. Pour into clean gla.s.s jars, and let the jam cool before closing.

Variation For quince cheese, mash the cooked quinces in the pan with a potato masher or a wooden spoon Rose Petal Jam In Egypt, vendors sold crates of rose petals, in their season, for making rose water and rose jam. Certain varieties of rose, such as the wild eglantine of Turkey and Syria, are the best for jam-making. I have not been able to make a good one with the roses from my garden. The petals remained tough under the tooth.

1pound fresh rose petals, preferably red Juice of 1 lemons, or more 2cups sugar 2-3 tablespoons rose water (optional) Pick fresh petals. (Make sure they have not been sprayed with insecticide.) Cut off their white ends with scissors, and wash and drain the petals. Cover with water in a large pan, add the juice of lemon, and simmer for 30 minutes. Then drain.

In the same pan, make a syrup by boiling 2 cups of water with the sugar and the remaining lemon juice for 10 minutes. Let it cool, put the petals in, and leave them to macerate for 24 hours.

Bring the syrup and petals to the boil and simmer for 20 minutes, or until the petals are tender. Add rose water, if you like, and boil a moment more. Pour into a gla.s.s jar and let cool before closing.

Variation Make the same jam with the blossoms of bitter Seville-orange trees.

Sweet Eggplant Preserve A famous North African specialty with an exciting bittersweet flavor.

2 pounds small, thin, long eggplants 2 pounds sugar 1-2 teaspoons cloves teaspoon ground ginger (optional) Juice of lemon Wash the eggplants. Trim the stem end, leaving a little piece. Cut one or two thin strips of peel, so that the vegetables keep their shape but their flesh is better exposed to absorb the syrup. Some people leave them in water (changed daily) for 3 days to remove excessive bitterness, but it is sufficient to poach them in lightly salted water for 10-15 minutes, until they soften (you will need to weigh them down with a smaller lid), and then to let them drain very well before cooking them in syrup.

In a large saucepan, make a syrup by boiling the sugar in about 3 cups water with the spices and lemon juice. Gently press the juice out of the eggplants and throw them in. Simmer for about an hour, until the eggplants are very tender and engorged with syrup. Let them cool before you put them in ajar, and cover them with the syrup, which should be thick enough to coat a spoon. If it is not, reduce it by boiling fast. If it is too thick or caramelized, add a little water. Let the preserve cool before closing the jar.

Drinks and Sherbets One of my most exciting memories of Turkey is the inaugural evening, some years ago, to celebrate the formation of the Turkish wine-lovers' branch of the Chevaliers du Tastevin. I happened to be in Istanbul, and my friend the gastronome Tugrul avkai invited me to the ceremony and dinner. The venue was the grand ballroom of a yet-to-be-opened grand hotel. An enormous banqueting table was set in the middle of the empty hall with Ottoman lavishness. Course upon course of "modern" Turkish delicacies were accompanied by a succession of local and foreign wines. (Notable local wines are the red Buzbag, the white Trakya, and the Diren.) There were many toasts, in an atmosphere of convivial jollity. The scene was enchantingly fairylike, with a cloak-and-dagger atmosphere. The event had been secretly arranged to foil Islamic fundamentalists-there were whispers of a possible bomb; and velvet cloaks, hats, gold chains, and a great sword had been promised by the Chevaliers branch of California, who were renovating their wardrobes. These arrived an hour late, which created some anxiety. When they did arrive, the women were seated in rows to watch their men be knighted by the sword. As each man knelt on a velvet cushion and cla.s.sical music created an elevated feeling of ceremony, the women laughed helplessly.

Wine and alcoholic liquor are prohibited by Islam, but in many Muslim countries arak (or raki), an anise-flavored liquor, is very much a national drink that all but the very religious drink with mezze. Beer and wine are also produced. In the past they were produced by the Christian and Jewish communities. Today, even while governments in Turkey, and also in Algeria, Morocco, and Tunisia, try to encourage a quality wine trade, they are faced with the growing forces of Islamic fundamentalism.

The Lebanese Chateau Musar is the most famous and perhaps the best wine in the region. Although Greece is known mostly for its pine-resin-flavored retsina, it now produces quality wines, as does Israel, with wines such as Gamla and Yarden in the Golan Heights. The French colonizers in Algeria, Tunisia, and Morocco produced large quant.i.ties of wine-in the 1950s their wine exports accounted for a third of the total world wine trade-much of it to be mixed with the wines of Burgundy, the Languedoc, and the south of France. Since the French left North Africa and the colonist wine-makers moved to Corsica, production has shrunk immeasurably, but some of the better wines (quality is always variable) can be surprisingly good. The dry and fruity roses of Algeria and Morocco, the Moroccan Gris, and the Tunisian muscat (it can be sweet or dry) are especially good with couscous and tagines and spicy salads.

Arak (or raki) is made from the distilled fermented juice of white grapes flavored with aniseed. In Iraq they make it with dates. Another liquor is mahia mahia, a specialty of the Moroccan Jews, which is distilled from figs. Like arak, it is drunk as an aperitif or a digestive. You will find it in Jewish stores in Paris now, while in Morocco, since most of the Jews left, it has been sorely missed. In Morocco they secretly make samet samet, which is based on the fermented juice of various fruits such as grapes, apples, pears, and plums.

Because of the alcohol prohibition, people appreciate many other types of drinks, among them fresh fruit juices and sherbets, milk (it is the drink of welcome and hospitality offered with dates), and yogurt, and, most of all, water. People sometimes perfume water with rose petals or with a slice of lemon. Spring water is especially popular. In Turkey people pride themselves on recognizing where it is from. Of course, in the desert water has magical qualities. In Islamic culture water has symbolic importance. It is seen as a divine gift, a purifier, and saintly. Colorfully dressed water-carriers, strapped with large earthenware jars (their porous surface helps to keep the water cool by its constant evaporation) and clanging bra.s.s goblets, are a familiar tourist attraction, but in reality the water-vendor has a powerful position in Middle Eastern folklore.

A story is told of the vendor who, greedy for power, established himself by a desert road, displaying cool and curvy earthenware jars. As a thirsty traveler approached and asked for a drink, the vendor would take a very long time to reply, then he would point to ajar. When the traveler approached the jar, the vendor would snap: "Not that one! The one next to it!" Then, as the unfortunate man took this one up to his lips, he would be sworn at again: "Not that one, you fool! That one, I said!" This would go on until the poor traveler was on his knees, begging to be allowed to buy a drink. As a protection from this sort of experience, an Arab proverb advises: "The water of the well is better than the favor of the water-vendor." However, beggars are never refused water, which is considered the most blessed of alms.

Limonada Lemonade Serves 6 6 cups ice-cold water cups ice-cold water Juice of 4 lemons - cup sugar, to taste cup sugar, to taste The grated zest of 1 lemon 1 tablespoon orange-blossom water Mix all the ingredients and leave, covered, in the refrigerator until the sugar is dissolved.

Karkade Iced Hibiscus Drink Serves 4 or 5 * If you go to Egypt, one thing to bring back home is wine-red dried hibiscus petals. If you go to Egypt, one thing to bring back home is wine-red dried hibiscus petals.

1 cup hibiscus petals(karkade) 5 cups water Sugar to taste Put the petals in a pan with the water. Bring to the boil and simmer for 5 minutes. Let cool, then filter into a jug and chill, covered with plastic wrap. Serve chilled. The drink is quite tart. Let everyone add sugar to taste.

Note: The drink can also be served hot like tea. The drink can also be served hot like tea.

Lab an Yogurt Drink Makes 4-6 gla.s.ses * This deliciously refreshing drink, called * This deliciously refreshing drink, called doug doug by Persians, by Persians, ayran ayran in Turkey, and in Turkey, and laban laban by others, is consumed extensively all over the Middle East and particularly in Lebanon, Turkey, and Iran. It is prepared in the home, served in cafes, and sold by street vendors. It is good served chilled or with ice cubes. by others, is consumed extensively all over the Middle East and particularly in Lebanon, Turkey, and Iran. It is prepared in the home, served in cafes, and sold by street vendors. It is good served chilled or with ice cubes.

3cups plain whole-milk yogurt 4 cups water or carbonated mineral water Salt 1-2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint or crushed dried mint (optional) Pour the yogurt into a large jug. Gradually add the water and beat vigorously until thoroughly blended. Season to taste with very little salt, if any, and add mint if you like.

Serve chilled, preferably with a lump of ice in each gla.s.s.

Someone asked Goha what was his favorite music and he replied, "The clanging of pots and pans and the tinkling of gla.s.ses."

Sahlab-Salep Serves 4 * This wonderful, heartwarming winter drink is hot milk thickened with the starchy ground bulb of an orchid called * This wonderful, heartwarming winter drink is hot milk thickened with the starchy ground bulb of an orchid called Orchis mascula Orchis mascula. This was sold by street vendors from the large copper urn in which it was made. The stone-colored powder called sahlab (salep sahlab (salep in Turkish and Greek) is expensive and not easy to find. I have often bought it in Middle Eastern markets only to discover that it was a fake or adulterated mix. Cornstarch is an alternative which gives a creamy texture but not the same special flavor. in Turkish and Greek) is expensive and not easy to find. I have often bought it in Middle Eastern markets only to discover that it was a fake or adulterated mix. Cornstarch is an alternative which gives a creamy texture but not the same special flavor.

1 tablespoons pulverized sahlab sahlab or or 2 tablespoons cornstarch 4 cups milk 3 tablespoons sugar, or to taste 2 teaspoons rose or orange-blossom water (optional) 2 tablespoons finely chopped pistachios Ground cinnamon In a bowl mix the pulverized sahlab sahlab or cornstarch with a few tablespoons cold milk. or cornstarch with a few tablespoons cold milk.

Bring the remaining milk to a boil. Pour in the sahlab sahlab or cornstarch mixture, stirring vigorously so as not to let lumps form. Cook over very low heat, stirring all the time, until the milk thickens (about 10 minutes). Then stir in the sugar and, if you like, rose or orange-blossom water. or cornstarch mixture, stirring vigorously so as not to let lumps form. Cook over very low heat, stirring all the time, until the milk thickens (about 10 minutes). Then stir in the sugar and, if you like, rose or orange-blossom water.

Serve in cups (a ladle is useful), with finely chopped or ground pistachios sprinkled on top and a dusting of cinnamon.

Variation In Egypt it is the custom to sprinkle grated coconut on top.

Kahwa Turkish Coffee Serves 1 * In my family, it was the men-my father or brothers-who made the coffee. Here is their method. My parents had many pots of different sizes-for two, three, four, five people. * In my family, it was the men-my father or brothers-who made the coffee. Here is their method. My parents had many pots of different sizes-for two, three, four, five people.

1 very heaping teaspoon pulverized coffee 1 heaping teaspoon sugar, or less, to taste 1 small coffee cup water Although it is more common to boil the water with the sugar alone first and then add the coffee, it is customary in my family to put the cof- fee, sugar, and water in the kanaka kanaka or pot (a small saucepan could be used, though it is not as successful), and to bring them to the boil together. By a "very heaping teaspoon" of coffee I mean, in this case, so heaping that it is more than 2 teaspoons. A level teaspoon of sugar will make a "medium" coffee. or pot (a small saucepan could be used, though it is not as successful), and to bring them to the boil together. By a "very heaping teaspoon" of coffee I mean, in this case, so heaping that it is more than 2 teaspoons. A level teaspoon of sugar will make a "medium" coffee.

Bring to the boil. When the froth begins to rise, remove from the heat, stir, and return to the heat until the froth rises again. Pour immediately into little cups, allowing a little froth (wesh) (wesh) for each cup. The froth is forced out by making your hand tremble as you serve. But if you are making a larger amount of coffee in a big for each cup. The froth is forced out by making your hand tremble as you serve. But if you are making a larger amount of coffee in a big kanaka kanaka, it is easier to distribute the froth equally between the cups with a spoon before pouring. Serve very hot. The grounds will settle at the bottom of the cup. Do not stir them up or drink them.

Variation Try flavoring the coffee with cardamom seeds (heil) (heil), or a little cinnamon, or a pinch of ground cloves, added at the same time as the coffee. Or pour in a drop of orange-blossom or rose water before serving.

Note: It is common practice for people in some circles to turn their coffee cups upside down on their saucers when they have finished drinking. As the coffee grounds dribble down the sides of the cup, they form a pattern or image from which at least one member of the company can usually read the fortune of the drinker. A friend has a coffee cup which she brought from Egypt and has kept in a cupboard in England for many years now, carefully wrapped in fine tissue paper and rarely disturbed. She is convinced that it bears the protective image of Rab Moshe (Moses) traced out in coffee grounds at the bottom of the cup. It is common practice for people in some circles to turn their coffee cups upside down on their saucers when they have finished drinking. As the coffee grounds dribble down the sides of the cup, they form a pattern or image from which at least one member of the company can usually read the fortune of the drinker. A friend has a coffee cup which she brought from Egypt and has kept in a cupboard in England for many years now, carefully wrapped in fine tissue paper and rarely disturbed. She is convinced that it bears the protective image of Rab Moshe (Moses) traced out in coffee grounds at the bottom of the cup.

Kahwa Beida White Coffee A hot drink of boiled scented water taken as an alternative to coffee at night is an old tradition in Syria and Lebanon. hot drink of boiled scented water taken as an alternative to coffee at night is an old tradition in Syria and Lebanon.

Pour boiling water into a small coffee cup and add a few drops of orange-blossom water. Sweeten with sugar if you like. It is very soothing.

When I was a child in Egypt, we used to take to bed a gla.s.s of cold water with a few drops of rose water to make us sleep.

Chai Tea Tea is relatively new in the Middle East, where it was introduced in the nineteenth century. Though not as important as coffee, it has been widely adopted, especially in times when coffee has been expensive. In Egypt it was drunk strong and black. In other parts, spices are often added. Make tea in the usual way and put a stick of cinnamon with 3 slices of lemon in the pot. Alternatively, add 2 teaspoons aniseed and garnish each cup with finely chopped walnuts.

Moroccan Mint Tea Makes 10 small gla.s.ses in a 5-cup teapot * In Morocco tea-a refreshing infusion of both green tea and mint-is the symbol of hospitality, prepared with art, served with ceremony, and drunk at all times of the day. Introduced in the nineteenth century by the English, tea became an indispensable drink. It is traditionally served in richly engraved English-style silver teapots (the grandest are from Manchester) on silver trays with tiny legs. It is poured from a great height into small, ornamented colored gla.s.ses. Spearmint is the type of mint used, and the infusion is sweetened in the teapot. In Morocco they like it very sweet, with many lumps of sugar, but you can suit your taste. * In Morocco tea-a refreshing infusion of both green tea and mint-is the symbol of hospitality, prepared with art, served with ceremony, and drunk at all times of the day. Introduced in the nineteenth century by the English, tea became an indispensable drink. It is traditionally served in richly engraved English-style silver teapots (the grandest are from Manchester) on silver trays with tiny legs. It is poured from a great height into small, ornamented colored gla.s.ses. Spearmint is the type of mint used, and the infusion is sweetened in the teapot. In Morocco they like it very sweet, with many lumps of sugar, but you can suit your taste.

1 tablespoons green tea Handful of fresh whole mint leaves Lump sugar, to taste tablespoons green tea Handful of fresh whole mint leaves Lump sugar, to taste Bring a kettle of water to a rolling boil. Heat the teapot by swirling some boiling water in it, then pour out. Add the tea leaves and pour a little boiling water over them. Swirl around, and quickly pour the water out again, taking care not to lose the leaves. Add mint leaves and sugar to taste, and pour in about 5 cups boiling water. Allow to infuse for about 5 minutes, then skim off any mint that has risen to the surface. Taste a little of the tea in a small gla.s.s, and add more sugar if necessary. Serve in small gla.s.ses.

Zhourat Infusions or Tisanes Infusions of all kinds, both hot and cold, are extremely popular throughout the Middle East for their soothing and medicinal properties as well as for their fragrance. They are made from dried fruits (apples and apricots), roots (ginger and licorice), pods (carob and tamarind), seeds (anise and caraway), and dried flowers and leaves. The following are used: dried mint, verbena, sage, sweet basil, sweet marjoram, chamomile and lime blossom, jasmine and orange blossom, rose petals, and hibiscus.

Make the tisanes in a teapot the same way you make tea, warming the teapot and pouring on boiling water. Sweeten in the cup, if you like, with sugar or honey.