* To broil the zucchini, arrange the slices on a tray, brush both sides very lightly with olive oil, and sprinkle with salt. Put under the broiler, and cook, turning them over once, until browned.

* Another traditional accompaniment is a fresh tomato sauce. Use the one for eggplants on page 81.

Mashed Zucchini and Tomatoes Serves 6 * A North African appetizer full of rich sensuous flavors. * A North African appetizer full of rich sensuous flavors.

2 large onions, chopped 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 cloves garlic, crushed 1 teaspoon ground c.u.min 1 pound zucchini, cut into thick slices Salt and pepper 2 tablespoons red- or white-wine vinegar A good pinch of ground chili pepper 1 pound tomatoes, peeled and chopped Fry the onions in the oil until golden and stir in the garlic and c.u.min. Add the zucchini, salt, pepper, vinegar, ground chili pepper, and tomatoes. Put the lid on and cook for about 10 minutes without added water, until the zucchini slices are very soft.

Mash with a fork or a potato masher and serve at room temperature.

Zucchini Salad with Raisins and Pine Nuts Serves 4-6 * The combination of raisins and pine nuts was brought by the Arabs all the way to Spain and Sicily. * The combination of raisins and pine nuts was brought by the Arabs all the way to Spain and Sicily.

1 pound zucchini, thinly sliced 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons pine nuts 2 tablespoons black or golden raisins, or currants 1 clove garlic, crushed and chopped Salt and pepper 2 teaspoons dried mint (optional) Juice of lemon, or more Saute the zucchini quickly in the oil with the pine nuts, raisins, and garlic. Add salt and pepper and dried mint, if using, and cook, stirring, over moderate heat until the zucchini slices are just tender.

Serve hot or cold with lemon juice squeezed over the salad.

Variation The zucchini may be left uncooked and simply macerated in a mixture of 5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil with the juice of h- h-1 lemon and salt and pepper for at least an hour. Toast the pine nuts and add them before serving.

Kabak Mucveri Zucchini Fritters Serves 4 * Yogurt often accompanies these Turkish fritters. * Yogurt often accompanies these Turkish fritters.

1 pound zucchini, grated 1 large onion, coa.r.s.ely chopped Sunflower oil 3 eggs 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour Pepper A few sprigs of mint, chopped A few sprigs of dill, chopped 7 ounces feta cheese, mashed with a fork Grate the zucchini. Fry the onion in 3 tablespoons oil over medium heat, till soft and lightly colored. Add the grated zucchini and saute, stirring, until soft.

In a bowl, beat the eggs with the flour until well blended. Add pepper and the herbs and mix well. Fold in the feta cheese and the cooked onions and zucchini.

Film the bottom of a preferably nonstick frying pan with oil and fry by the half-ladle or 2 tablespoons, turning over once, until both sides are brown. You can do a few at a time.

Drain on paper towels and serve hot or cold.

Kharshouf bi Zeit Baby Artichoke Hearts Stewed in Oil Serves 4 * If you want to use fresh baby artichokes, see instructions for preparing the hearts on page 282. * If you want to use fresh baby artichokes, see instructions for preparing the hearts on page 282.

9 artichoke hearts, fresh or frozen cup extra-virgin olive oil Juice of 1 lemon, or to taste 2 cloves garlic, chopped Salt and pepper Put the artichoke hearts in a pan with the rest of the ingredients and barely cover with water. Simmer, uncovered, for about 20 minutes if fresh or 10 minutes if frozen, until tender. Lift out the artichokes and reduce the sauce.

Serve cold-whole if small, halved or quartered if large-in their own sauce.

Chopped Artichokes and Preserved Lemons Serves 4-6 * This simple and delightful North African salad is easy to make with the frozen artichoke bottoms obtainable from Middle Eastern stores. * This simple and delightful North African salad is easy to make with the frozen artichoke bottoms obtainable from Middle Eastern stores.

A 14-ounce packet frozen artichoke bottoms, defrosted Salt 5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Pepper 1 or 2 cloves garlic, crushed (optional) A few sprigs of dill, chopped 1 preserved lemon peel (see page 459), rinsed and chopped Simmer the artichoke bottoms in salted water to cover for about 10 minutes, till just tender. Then drain and chop them coa.r.s.ely with a sharp knife and mix with the rest of the ingredients.

Serve cold.

Omi Houriya Spicy Carrot Puree Serves 6 * Make this fiery Tunisian salad with old carrots, which taste better, and add the flavorings gradually, to taste. The color is beautiful. Serve as a dip with bread or bits of raw vegetables. * Make this fiery Tunisian salad with old carrots, which taste better, and add the flavorings gradually, to taste. The color is beautiful. Serve as a dip with bread or bits of raw vegetables.

1 pounds carrots Salt 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 3 tablespoons wine vinegar 2 cloves garlic, crushed -1 teaspoon harissa (see page 464) or 1 teaspoon paprika and good pinch of chili pepper 1 teaspoons ground c.u.min or caraway seeds V4- teaspoon ground ginger Peel the carrots and cut into large pieces. Boil them in salted water until tender, then drain and chop them with a knife or mash them with a fork.

Mix well with the rest of the ingredients and serve cold.

Variations * Garnish with 6 green or black olives or 4 ounces crumbled feta cheese.

* Instead of c.u.min or caraway, add 2 tablespoons honey and 1 teaspoon cinnamon.

Ajlouk de Carottes Mashed Carrot and Potato Salad Serves 6 * For this Tunisian salad, use old carrots and mealy potatoes. * For this Tunisian salad, use old carrots and mealy potatoes.

4 large carrots 3 potatoes 4-5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Juice of 1 lemon, or more Salt teaspoon harissa (page 464) or 1 teaspoon paprika and good pinch of chili pepper 1 teaspoon caraway seeds Peel and boil the carrots and potatoes separately until they are soft (the carrots should be very soft). Then drain and mash with a fork or a potato masher. Put them together in a bowl, add the remaining ingredients, and mix very well.

Serve cold.

Slat.i.t Batata Marfusa Mashed Potato Salad with Capers Serves 6 * Use mealy potatoes for this Tunisian salad, which is served as an appetizer and also as an accompaniment to grilled fish. * Use mealy potatoes for this Tunisian salad, which is served as an appetizer and also as an accompaniment to grilled fish.

1 pounds potatoes Salt 4-5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 tablespoons wine vinegar Pepper teaspoon harissa (page 464) or a good pinch of chili pepper (optional) cup chopped flat-leaf parsley 3 tablespoons capers, squeezed to get rid of excess vinegar Peel and boil the potatoes in lightly salted water until soft, then drain, keeping a little of the cooking water.

Mash with the oil and vinegar and 2-4 tablespoons of the cooking water-enough to have a soft, moist texture. Add the rest of the ingredients and mix well.

Serve cold.

Slat.i.t Batata Helwa Sweet Potato Salad Serves 6 * In this Moroccan salad, the curious mix of sweet and spicy is quite delicious. It is nice as it is but you may add, if you like, a handful of black olives, the chopped peel of a preserved lemon (see page 459), and a tablespoon of capers. * In this Moroccan salad, the curious mix of sweet and spicy is quite delicious. It is nice as it is but you may add, if you like, a handful of black olives, the chopped peel of a preserved lemon (see page 459), and a tablespoon of capers.

1 pounds sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into l-inch cubes - teaspoon ground ginger 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1 teaspoon harissa (page 464) or a good pinch of chili pepper Juice of -1 lemon 2 teaspoons honey Salt 5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 4 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley or cilantro Boil the sweet potatoes in just enough water to cover. Stir in the ginger, cinnamon, harissa or ground chili pepper, lemon juice, honey, and salt, and cook, uncovered, for 15 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender, turning them over once and being careful not to let them overcook and fall apart. The sauce should be reduced to a thick syrupy consistency. If it is not, lift out the potatoes with a slotted spoon into a serving dish and reduce the sauce further by boiling.

Just before the end of cooking, stir in the oil and the parsley or cilantro.

Serve cold.

Bamia Sweet-and-Sour Okra Serves 4 * Okra is one of the most popular vegetables in the Arab world. * Okra is one of the most popular vegetables in the Arab world.

1 pound small young okra 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil -1 tablespoon sugar Salt and pepper Juice of 1 small lemon, or to taste Cut off the stem ends and wash the okra. Heat the oil in a heavy skillet. Add the okra and saute gently for about 5 minutes, turning each pod over.

Add sugar, salt and pepper, the lemon juice, and just enough water to cover the okra.

Simmer for about 15 minutes, or until the okra is tender and the liquid is reduced. Raise the heat if neccesary to reduce the liquid at the end.

Serve cold.

Mushrooms in Olive Oil Serves 2-4 * Mushrooms are not common in the Middle East but you do find them-in Cyprus, for instance. * Mushrooms are not common in the Middle East but you do find them-in Cyprus, for instance.

pound small b.u.t.ton mushrooms pound small b.u.t.ton mushrooms 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon water Salt and pepper Juice of -I lemon teaspoon dried thyme (optional) 1 or 2 cloves garlic, crushed 4 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley Wash the mushrooms. Cut them in half if they are a little large.

Pour the oil and water into a frying pan. Stir in all the remaining ingredients except the mushrooms and bring to the boil. Add the mushrooms and simmer gently for about 7 minutes, or until they are tender, turning them over occasionally. Pour into a serving dish.

Taste and adjust the seasoning before serving, as its intensity changes with the drop in temperature.

Serve cold.

Mushrooms with Onions and Red Wine Serves 6*I was given this recipe by a lovely Cypriot. I had never come across it before. It can be made with all kinds of mushrooms. I used shiitake with a Cabernet Sauvignon and found them delicious except that the stalks remained chewy, so cut those off if you use them. was given this recipe by a lovely Cypriot. I had never come across it before. It can be made with all kinds of mushrooms. I used shiitake with a Cabernet Sauvignon and found them delicious except that the stalks remained chewy, so cut those off if you use them.

1 large onions, sliced 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 11 ounces mushrooms, left whole, or cut in half if very large Salt and pepper 1 cup red wine In a saucepan, fry the onions in the oil, covered, slowly over low heat, stirring occasionally, for about 20 minutes, until soft and golden.

Add the mushrooms, salt and pepper, and the wine and cook, covered, over low heat until the mushrooms are soft-between 10 and 30 minutes, depending on the mushrooms. Take off the lid to reduce the sauce if necessary.

Loubia bi Zeit Green Beans in Olive Oil Serves 6 1 pounds green beans or young runner beans 1 large onion, coa.r.s.ely chopped 4-5 tablespoons olive oil 4 cloves garlic, sliced 4 tomatoes, peeled and chopped Salt and pepper Top and tail and wash the beans. Cut the runner beans into 2 or 3 pieces.

In a saucepan, fry the onion in oil until soft. Add garlic, and when the onions and garlic begin to color, add the tomatoes and the beans. Only just cover with water, add salt and pepper, and simmer, uncovered, until the beans are tender and the liquid is reduced.

Serve cold.

Fennel, Celery, and Cauliflower Salad The vegetables may be served raw, but when boiled they make a very pleasant salad. The fennel gives it a faint anise flavor. Wash equal amounts of the vegetables and cut them into pieces and florets. Boil in salted water until only just soft. Dress with plenty of olive oil, lemon juice, and a little salt and pepper. The fennel has enough perfume of its own, but a little chopped fresh mint is an agreeable addition.

Turkish Tarator Sauce for Boiled Vegetables Serves 6 * Serve this in a bowl with plain boiled or steamed vegetables such as runner beans, zucchini, or cauliflower. * Serve this in a bowl with plain boiled or steamed vegetables such as runner beans, zucchini, or cauliflower.

2 thin slices bread, crusts removed 1 cup walnuts or hazelnuts, coa.r.s.ely ground cup extra-virgin olive oil 3-4 tablespoons wine vinegar 1 or 2 cloves garlic, crushed Salt and pepper Soak the bread in water and squeeze dry. Crumble it, and add it to the nuts in a bowl. Gradually add the olive oil, beating constantly, then stir in the vinegar and garlic, and season to taste with salt and pepper. The sauce should be very smooth and creamy.

You may use a food processor or blender. In this case add whole walnuts or hazelnuts at the end, when the rest of the ingredients have been turned to a cream, and leave the nuts slightly coa.r.s.e.

Pancar Salatasi Beet and Yogurt Salad Serves 4 * This is a Turkish way of dressing beets. * This is a Turkish way of dressing beets.

1 pound young beets 2 tablespoons lemon juice 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 cup plain whole-milk yogurt Salt 1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley to garnish Cut the tops off the beets and boil them in plenty of water for 30 to 40 minutes, until tender. Peel and slice them.

Mix the lemon juice with the oil. Add yogurt and salt and beat well. Then mix with the beets.

Pour into a serving dish and garnish with chopped parsley.

Variation An alternative dressing is olive oil and a little salt mixed with about 1 teaspoon orange-blossom water or rose water and a sprinkling of cinnamon.

Salatet Korat Leek Salad Serves 4 * Leeks are especially popular in Egypt. * Leeks are especially popular in Egypt.

1 pound leeks 3 tablespoons olive oil Juice of lemon, or more Salt and pepper 1 teaspoon dried mint 1 or 2 cloves garlic, crushed teaspoon sugar With a pointed knife, split the leeks lengthwise to their center and wash them carefully, fanning them out in the water to remove all traces of soil between the leaves. Discard the tough outer leaves and trim the tops and roots. Cut the leeks into 1- or 2-inch lengths and boil them in lightly salted water for 15-20 minutes or until soft, then drain and press the excess water out.

Mix the olive oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper, mint, garlic, and sugar and pour over the leeks in a serving dish. Serve cold.

Variations * Simmer the leeks very gently with the dressing ingredients and very little water to cover, until very soft, about 20 minutes. Allow to cool in their liquid and serve cold, garnished with chopped parsley.

* Roll the boiled leeks in a sauce made by beating 2-3 tablespoons olive oil with the juice of 1 lemon, 4-5 tablespoons yogurt or sour cream, salt, and pepper. Serve cold with a sprinkling of finely chopped parsley or cilantro.

Cooked Onion Salad In the old days people used to set onions in their skins to cook very slowly in the ashes of a fire. They acquired a sweet, mellow taste, which an hour in a low oven will also give them. Put a few in a 325F oven for an hour or longer, until they are very soft. Let them cool, then peel and cut them into slices or pieces and dress with an oil-and-vinegar dressing. Garnish, if you like, with capers or bits of parsley, and serve cold.

Sweet-and-Sour Onions Serves 6 1 pound little pickling onions or shallots 3-4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 3 tablespoons wine vinegar 1 tablespoon sugar 2 tablespoons golden raisins Salt and pepper 2 teaspoons dried mint (optional) Peel the onions (one way is to plunge them for a few seconds in boiling water until the skins come off easily). Put them in a pan with the oil, and saute, shaking the pan to brown them lightly all over. Add the rest of the ingredients and a little water, and cook, covered, over low heat for about 20 minutes, or until soft, adding more water if necessary.

Ba.s.sal bel Tamarhendi Baby Onions with Tamarind Serves 6 * You can find tamarind paste in Oriental stores. It gives the onions a delicious, intense sweet-and-sour taste. * You can find tamarind paste in Oriental stores. It gives the onions a delicious, intense sweet-and-sour taste.

1 pound shallots or pickling onions or simply small onions 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon tamarind paste 1 tablespoon sugar Poach the onions in boiling water for about 5 minutes (this makes them easier to peel) and peel them when just cool enough to handle.

In a pan just large enough to contain them in one layer, saute the onions in the oil, shaking the pan and turning them to brown them lightly all over.

Add the tamarind and the sugar and half-cover with water. Stir well and cook, covered, over low heat for about 25 minutes, or until very soft, adding water so that it does not dry out, and lifting the lid to reduce the sauce at the end.

Serve cold.

Celeriac with Turmeric Serves 6 * The celeriac acquires a special delicate flavor and a pale-yellow tinge. * The celeriac acquires a special delicate flavor and a pale-yellow tinge.

2 celeriac, weighing about 2 pounds 3 cloves garlic, crushed 5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil teaspoon turmeric Salt and pepper 2 teaspoons sugar Juice of 1 lemon Peel and wash the celeriac and cut into pieces of roughly the same size (about 1 inch). Put them in a saucepan with the rest of the ingredients and enough water to cover.

Cook, uncovered for 10-15 minutes, over low heat, until the celeriac is soft and the liquid is absorbed, turning the pieces over and raising the heat, if necessary, to reduce the sauce at the end.

Serve cold.

Taratorlu Kereviz Celeriac and Carrots with Nut Sauce Serves 6 * In Turkey all kinds of vegetables, including cauliflower and green beans, are dressed with a nut sauce called * In Turkey all kinds of vegetables, including cauliflower and green beans, are dressed with a nut sauce called tarator tarator. Here celeriac and carrots make a good combination of flavor and color, and yogurt is a refreshing addition to the sauce.

1 large celeriac 3 large carrots Salt FOR THE SAUCE.

1 cup hazelnuts, coa.r.s.ely ground 2 cloves garlic, crushed 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 3 tablespoons wine vinegar 1 cup plain whole-milk yogurt Salt Pinch of ground chili pepper (optional) Peel the celeriac and carrots and cut into matchsticks. (To peel the celeriac, you need to cut away the earth-covered exterior with a strong knife.) Boil in salted water for a few minutes until just tender and drain. Mix all the sauce ingredients and pour over the vegetables. Serve cold.

Mujadra bel Burghul Lentils and Bulgur with Caramelized Onions Serves 4-6 * This Lenten specialty of the Orthodox Christian communities of Syria and Lebanon can be served hot or cold. Accompany with yogurt. * This Lenten specialty of the Orthodox Christian communities of Syria and Lebanon can be served hot or cold. Accompany with yogurt.

About 4 cups chicken stock (page 143) (or you may use 2 bouillon cubes) teaspoon allspice Good pinch of chili pepper (optional) 1 tablespoon tomato paste 1 cup large brown or green lentils, washed Salt and pepper 1 cups coa.r.s.e-ground bulgur (cracked wheat) 8 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 large onions, halved and thickly sliced In a large pan, bring the stock to the boil. Add the allspice, ground chili pepper (if using), and tomato paste. Stir well and add the lentils. Simmer, with the lid on, for about 15 minutes, or until the lentils are almost tender.

Add salt (taking into account the saltiness of the stock or bouillon) and pepper, and stir in the bulgur. Cook, with the lid on, over very low heat for about 10 to 15 minutes, adding a little water if it becomes too dry. Then leave for 10 minutes or longer, with the lid on, until the bulgur is plump and tender. Stir in 5 tablespoons of olive oil.

At the same time, in a large frying pan, fry the onions in the remaining oil over medium heat for about 30 minutes, stirring often, until they are very brown, putting the heat up towards the end to caramelize them. Serve the lentils and bulgur topped with the onions.

Megadarra Brown Lentils and Rice with Caramelized Onions Serves 4-6 * * Megadarra Megadarra is immensely popular in Egypt, as it is all over the Arab world (elsewhere it is p.r.o.nounced is immensely popular in Egypt, as it is all over the Arab world (elsewhere it is p.r.o.nounced mujadra mujadra and sometimes called and sometimes called mudardara) mudardara). It is a modern version of a medieval dish called mujadarra mujadarra, described by al-Baghdadi (see appendix) as a dish of the poor, and still referred to as Esau's favorite. In fact, it is such a favorite that, although it is said to be for misers, it is a compliment to serve it. An aunt of mine used to present it regularly to guests with the comment "Excuse the food of the poor!"-to which the unanimous reply always was: "Keep your food of kings and give us megadarra megadarra every day!" every day!"

The proportions of lentils and rice vary with every family. Large quant.i.ties of dark, caramelized onions are the best part. It is served either warm or cold, as a mezze or as part of a light meal, usually accompanied by yogurt.

3 large onions, weighing about 1 pounds total, cut in half and sliced cup extra-virgin olive oil cups large brown or green lentils 1 cups long-grain rice Salt and pepper Fry the onions slowly in a large pan over very low heat in 3-4 tablespoons of the oil-covered to begin with, until they soften, stirring often, and then uncovered-until they turn a rich golden brown.

Rinse the lentils in cold water and drain. Cook in 4 cups water for 20 minutes. Add half of the fried onions and the rice to the lentils. Season with salt and pepper and stir well. Put the lid on and cook over very low heat for another 20 minutes, or until the rice and lentils are tender, watching and adding water if it becomes too dry.

At the same time, put the remaining onions in the pan back on the fire, and continue to fry them, stirring often, over medium to high heat, until they are a dark brown-almost caramelized.

Serve the lentils and rice cold or warm in a wide shallow dish with the onions sprinkled on top and the remaining raw oil poured all over.

Variations * Add 1 tablespoon tomato paste and h h teaspoon dried red-pepper flakes or a pinch of ground chili pepper to the water with the lentils. teaspoon dried red-pepper flakes or a pinch of ground chili pepper to the water with the lentils.

* Add 1 teaspoon c.u.min and 1 teaspoon coriander to the cooking water, or 2 teaspoons dried mint.

* In another dish of rice and lentils, called masafi masafi, the lentils are turned to a puree. Red lentils, which disintegrate easily, can be used for this.