As soon as I arriv'd there I thought of renewing my Wardrobe, and refitting my Equipage. Tho' all this would not come to a great deal, yet being then very short of Money, I was forc'd to go a borrowing: I therefore gave Letters of Attorny to my Creditors, to receive an Annuity which came to me from my Family, and of which I shar'd one Third with my Brother, and _Madamoiselle de Pollnitz_. As my Brother and I were Minors when my Grandmother left us that Annuity, _Madamoiselle de Pollnitz_ being the eldest of the Family, qualify'd herself to receive it: She was first paid the whole upon her own Receipts, but afterwards she gave each of us our Share, which she all along continued to do ever since I was of Age: My Creditors were glad to accept of the Powers which I delegated to them, but, for their greater Security, they desir'd me to make myself sure and certain that _Madamoiselle de Pollnitz_ would punctually pay them: I wrote immediately, and desir'd them to write to her likewise; but as my good Cousin was never a hearty Friend to me, she thought fit to thwart me in the Expedient I had contriv'd to raise Money: Instead of doing me the Honour to write me an Answer, she wrote to my Creditors, to caution them to be upon their Guard; that I only meant to cheat them, that I had no Share in any such Annuity, and that every Word I had told them about it was a Lye. My Creditors were somewhat startled at this Intelligence, and imagin'd that they had to do with a Knave, who only intended to bilk them, and that they should be left without Remedy if I once gave them the Slip: I did every thing on my Part to make them easy; I told them that _Madamoiselle de Pollnitz_ had conceal'd the Truth from them, on Purpose to involve me in Trouble; and that I would engage she should retract the Letters she had sent them: Besides this, I offer'd to pay them out of the Income of my own Estate: But all I could say to them signify'd nothing; their Jealousy had taken deep Root, and they resolv'd, in order to secure their Debts, to arrest me: And so they actually did; for one _Sunday_ Morning I was accosted by some ill-favour'd Companions, who desir'd me to remove with a good Grace to the Prisons at the _Hague_, if I did not like to be carry'd thither by Force. I was a little confounded at such a Visit, and saw that I must instantly lose my Liberty, and perhaps for a long time too, when _Madame Pyll_, a Tradeswoman at the _Hague_, to whom I was already indebted, was so kind as to advance me what was necessary to pay my Creditors; by which means I got out of the Clutches of those impertinent Fellows.

Not many Days after this happen'd, other Creditors being inform'd of it, imagin'd that the only infallible Method for their being paid was, to take the same Course with me, and they also resolv'd to arrest me: Accordingly, Notice was brought to me at 6 o'Clock in the Morning, that 'twas apprehended there was a Design form'd against me, and that some Serjeants were sauntring about to nab me: I had my Breeches on indeed, but nothing more than a Night-gown; and not caring to take the Trouble of dressing myself intirely, especially as I knew that there were not many People stirring at the _Hague_ at that time, I thought it best to steal off in my Night-gown: I made my Escape to the House of my dear _Madame Pyll_: I could have wish'd this good Woman would have once more pacify'd those ravenous Hounds, but I had not the a.s.surance to mention it to her; and only desir'd she would give me Shelter for a little while, which she granted with Pleasure: But I was soon under a Necessity of shifting my Quarters, for the Catch-Polls being inform'd where I was harbour'd, were actually coming to take me, when this honest Woman help'd me to slip out at the Back-door, and lent me a Cloak, in which having m.u.f.fled myself up, I had nothing to think of but how to get away from the _Hague_: I put myself on board the _Delft_ Pa.s.sage-Boat, and went in quest of _Texera_, a rich _Portuguese_, who had a House half a League from the _Hague_. We were such good Friends, that I was persuaded he would not abandon me in the Situation he found me in: And indeed, with all the Generosity possible, he advanc'd me what Money I wanted, and had me conducted to _Honslaerdyk_, where I stay'd Two Days in the Castle: My Keeper happen'd to be one that was Waiting-woman to my late Mother, who did me all the Services she was capable of, and went and acquainted _Pyll_ where I was; upon which she came to see me, and brought me my Cloaths: I then consider'd what I had to do next: I had a great mind to return to the _Hague_, to treat with the Creditors who prosecuted me; but considering, that perhaps as soon as I had made these easy, others would give me fresh Trouble, I resolv'd to go to _Germany_, where I should be nearer at hand to write to my Family for the settling of my Affairs; for I was still under a Prohibition to go to _Berlin_; tho' why I was thus forbid to go to my own native Place, I knew not.

I went the Road to _Aix la Chapelle_, in Hopes that I should there find the Count _de L----_, to whom I had lent 400 Ducats 7 or 8 Years ago. He was then in the Service of the Elector Palatine, and I was a.s.sur'd that he was in waiting about _Aix_. The first Day I went to _Dort_, and from thence to BOIS LE DUC.

This is a pretty considerable Place in _Dutch Brabant_: 'Tis encompa.s.s'd all round with Marshes, and may easily be laid under Water for several Leagues round, which makes it one of the strongest Places in _Europe_: 'Twas _Henry_ of _Brabant_ that gave it the Name of _Bois le Duc_, or _Bolduc_, i. e. the _Duke's Wood_, because he directed the Building of it in 1171, in the same Place where he caus'd a Wood to be cut down.

At _Bois le Duc_ I went into the _Diligence_, which is the Name of the Stage-Coach that goes to MASTRICHT: I made an Acquaintance in it with an _English_ Gentleman that was going to _Aix la Chapelle_, to make use of the Waters: He came directly from _England_, and being, as 'tis probable, over-burden'd with his Guineas, he was at every turn exclaiming against the Cheapness of every thing on this Side of the Water: But a little Adventure he was engag'd in at _Mastricht_ alter'd his Opinion: He went out all alone the very Night we came thither, with a Design, he said, to take a little Walk about the Town; and in his Ramble he met with a very amiable young Creature upon the great Square, with whom he enter'd into a Conversation: After having parley'd with her some time, he offer'd to wait upon her to her Lodgings, and she was not so unsociable, but she accepted of his Proposal: My _Englishman_ thought himself a happy Mortal, and the Damsel appear'd so amiable in his Eyes, that he begg'd her Permission when he was at her Quarters to treat her with some Refreshments: When they had empty'd some Bottles, and the _Englishman_ was ready to take his Leave, he threw down a Guinea, and thought he paid full enough, but the Damsel demanded another: The Gentleman scrupled to give it, and insisted upon it with some Warmth, that a Guinea was sufficient in all Conscience to discharge the Expence he had put her to: No doubt he should have paid more Respect to such civil Company. The offended Damsel call'd the Landlady, who fell upon the poor _Englishman_ like a mad Woman: These Two were join'd by a Third Fury, who all together pummell'd the _Englishman_ soundly, tore his Cravat, and turn'd him out of Doors without so much as giving him his Perriwig: To complete his Misfortune, it rain'd as hard as it could pour, and the Night was so dark, that he could not see which way to steer his Course: He knew not who to ask for; and besides, he had forgot both the Inn, and the Name of the Street where we lodg'd: At last, being quite weary of running up and down the Streets so long, he took it into his Head to knock at every Door, from whence he met with no Return but hard Names: While he was rapping at one Door, he was surpriz'd by the Patroll, who carry'd him to the Watch-house: It was well for him that the Officer upon Guard was not an ill-natur'd Man, for he had the Patience to hear him give a very confus'd Description of the Inn, of which he had absolutely forgot the Name; and upon his saying that there were several other Inns in the same Street where his was, they guess'd pretty near where-abouts it was: Then the Officer lent him a Cloak, and having given him a Watchman to go along with him, they thundred at the Doors of several Inns, which not being the Inn that they wanted, there would certainly have been some Uproar, if it had not been for the Watchman that the _Englishman_ had to attend him: At last, as they were still wandring about in quest of the Inn which neither of them knew any thing of, the _Englishman_'s Lacquey, who was seeking his Master, met him, and carried him to his Quarters: You must know, that this Adventure made it a very disagreeable Night to me; for being extremely tired, I went to Bed as soon as I had supp'd, and the _Englishman_ being to lie in my Chamber, his Lacquey, who staid up there for him, disturb'd me sadly; for when he saw 'twas late, and that his Master was not return'd, he came every now-and-then to my Bed-side, and wak'd me to know what he should do; so that, to get rid of him, I advis'd him at last to turn out, and look for him. As soon as they came into the Room, I was forc'd to undergo the Penance of hearing the whole Story of his Adventure: The Lacquey was in a terrible Wrath with the honest People that had insulted his Master, and he propos'd to go out that Moment, and break open the Doors, and turn the House out of the Windows; but the Master having more Wit in his Anger, thought it best to bear his Disgrace with Patience, and to rest his Bones after so much Fatigue.

We set out next Day for _Aix la Chapelle_; but the Count _de L----_ whom I thought to have found there, was at that time in the _Palatinate_, and therefore having nothing to do at _Aix_, I took Leave of my _Englishman_, and proceeded in my Journey towards _Cologne_: As soon as I came thither, I fell ill of a Fever, nevertheless I push'd on, and was preparing to go up the _Rhine_, but when I came to ANDERNACH, a little Town in the Dominions of _Cologne_, I found myself so ill, that I was absolutely oblig'd to stop: Mean time my Fever prov'd a continual one, and I was in a Place where I could not expect much Relief: The Mistress of the House where I was told me, that there was an able Physician some Leagues from _Andernach_, upon which I jogg'd on thither as well as I could, and in a Fortnight's time my Fever left me: Some Days after this I propos'd going towards _Mentz_, but when I came to _Coblentz_, I found myself worse than ever, and not being willing to change my Doctor, I return'd down the _Rhine_, and went to spend another Fortnight with the Man that had cur'd me before: Nevertheless, my Distemper grew worse, and even affected my Mind so much, that I imagin'd I should never be cur'd where I was: I had withal conceiv'd such a mortal Aversion to my Doctor, that I could no longer bear the Sight of him; and fancy'd that a Physician of _Cologne_, whom I knew, was the only Man that could cure me, for which Reason I was wonderfully impatient to go to _Cologne_; and notwithstanding all the Arguments of my Doctor to convince me that in the Condition which I was then in it would be Death for me to undertake a Voyage, yet I embark'd in a Vessel, and went down the _Rhine_: When I arriv'd at _Cologne_, I put myself with Confidence under the Care of the Physician of whom I had such an Opinion, and after having taken his Drugs about Two Days, whether it was owing to their Virtue, or to the Force of my Imagination, the Fever visibly diminish'd, and at last quite left me.

When I was perfectly recover'd, I went up the _Rhine_ again to _Mentz_, where I hop'd to have found my Cousins; but I was told, that they were at their Estate in _Franconia_: This unlucky Absence of theirs perplex'd me very much, and what to do now I could not tell: I chose to go to _Zell_, where my Brother liv'd, and by good Luck I met with a Coach that was going to _Hanover_: From _Hanover_ I went to _Zell_, where I heard that my Brother was at _Berlin_, and I resolv'd to advance that way; but lest I might be known, instead of going to the Neighbourhood of _Berlin_, I repair'd to _Leipsic_, from whence I wrote to my Agent to know how Things went, and if there were any Hopes of settling my Affairs: He sent me Answer, that there was no Probability of it as long as my Estate remain'd under a Sequestration; that indeed a Loan of Money would enable me to obtain a Replevy by compounding with my Creditors; but that he did not see how it was possible to borrow any Money, unless _Madamoiselle de Pollnitz_, to whom my Estate was entail'd, would consent to it: He concluded with telling me, that he knew of no other Method to get me out of this Difficulty, than to obtain an Order from the King of _Prussia_. I knew as well as he, that such an Order was the most expeditious Method to bring me out of Trouble; but how could I obtain it, when I was not permitted so much as to appear at Court? However, I thought it my Duty to leave no Stone unturn'd this Bout for obtaining such Permission, tho' I had been deny'd it several times. I resolv'd to implore the Protection of the Prince of _Anhalt-Dessau_, who had always given me Proofs of his Kindness, as had also the Princesses his Sisters.

I went therefore to DESSAU, which is but Six Leagues from _Leipsick_: At that time none were there but the Princesses, for the Prince had been absent several Days, and was not expected till the Night following: I wrote to _Madame_ the d.u.c.h.ess of _Radzivil_, the Eldest of the Princesses, to desire that she would stand my Friend with the Prince her Brother: This Princess was so good as to send me one of her Officers to a.s.sure me that she would do every thing in her Power to prevail on the Prince to protect me; and she even desir'd me to write a Letter to the Prince, which she promis'd me to deliver to him with her own Hands: I laid hold on the Princess's kind Offer, sent her the Letter she desired of me, and as soon as the Prince was return'd, she had the Goodness to deliver it to him: I hop'd to carry all my Points after such a Recommendation; yet so far was I from seeing the Effect which I expected, that the Prince desir'd his Sister to engage me to make the best of my way out of _Dessau_, because if I staid there any longer, he should be oblig'd to put me under an Arrest: The d.u.c.h.ess, when she sent me this Message, was so kind as to sweeten it with one of the civillest Compliments that could be, and made me an Offer of Money, imagining, to be sure, that in the Condition I was in, I might have need of it: I most humbly thank'd her for all the Marks of Kindness with which she was pleas'd to honour me, and desir'd her to be a.s.sur'd, that I would that Instant pray Obedience to the Prince's Orders: And indeed, as I knew that with this Prince Execution follow'd close at the Heels of his Menaces, I speedily made an Enquiry for a Coach to carry me to _Barbi_, which is the Residence of a Duke of _Saxony_ of the Branch of _Weissenfels_, where I hop'd to meet with a Friend of mine, who was in that Prince's Service; but 'twas impossible for me to find either Horse or Coach in all _Dessau_, for n.o.body would stir by reason of the Sacredness of the Day, it being the Fourth _Sunday_ in _Advent_: Mean time, as I still dreaded the Prince's Anger, I resolv'd to set out on Foot: I made a Man shoulder my Portmanteau, which was then all my Equipage, and went with him to a little Town in the Duchy of _Magdebourg_, where I took a Chaise that carry'd me to BARBI.

I there found the Friend that I wanted, who receiv'd me as well as I could wish: This was the late Baron _de Chalisac_ whom you knew; but he did not fail to chide me a little, for letting my Affairs run into such Confusion; and advis'd me to go to my Brother, and concert proper Measures with him for the Advantage of both of us: He also lent me 40 Crowns for my Journey: I spent the _Christmas_-Holidays with him, during which he heard, that my Brother was return'd to ZELL: I was very glad of this News, and next Day after the Holidays I set out to meet him: I found him in a very good Humour with me: He convinc'd me, that I had Reason to suspect my Steward, and advis'd me at the same time to turn him off, and to take his in his Room, whom he knew to be honest: I gave him full Power to examine my Steward's Accompts, and he made it out as clear as the Sun at Noon-day, that I had been bubbled: My Brother, in order to oblige me thoroughly, help'd me to some Money, and moreover, put my Affairs in such a State, that my Creditors might not only be satisfy'd in a little time, but I had something left over-and-above to subsist me.

My Affairs being thus settled, I had nothing to think of now but which way to steer my Course, to the end it might be said at least, that I had some sort of Business or other: I could have lik'd the Service well enough, but there was no War, nor none like to be very soon: Moreover, I had paid my Court with so little Success to different Sovereigns, that indeed I was under no Temptation to enter the Lists again: I might indeed have return'd to _Spain_, where I had obtain'd an Employ, but what signify'd it, where the Salaries are not paid, and the Establishment obliges one to spend high? This Fluctuation of different Ideas puzzled me the more, because which way soever I look'd, I saw nothing but Difficulty, and not the least Glimpse of any other Condition that I could embrace: One Friend advis'd me to take Orders in the Church, which was a Proposition that I thought at first a little extraordinary; yet when I had seriously consider'd the Matter, I judg'd it would not be so wrong a Step as I imagin'd; that sooner or later I should not fail of having some Preferment: In a Word, a Number of temporal Motives gave Birth to a Project in my Mind, which ought only to have been the Effect of a Spiritual Call: I was advis'd first of all to make my Court to the Cardinal of _Saxe_, who was at _Ratisbon_: This Prince, who from a _Lutheran_ turn'd _Roman-Catholic_, was very fond of new Converts.

I went therefore to find out his Eminency at _Ratisbon_: My Brother accompany'd me as far as _Brunswick_, where we stay'd some Days, after which he took Leave of me, and return'd to _Zell_; and I for my Part went to _Barbi_, to see the Baron _de Chalisac_ to whom I gave an Account of the Settlement I had made with my Brother, and of my Resolution to think now of the main Chance: He was overjoy'd to find me in such a Disposition; and after I had spent a few Days with him, I proceeded to _Zeitz_, by the way of _Leipsick_.

You know that ZEITZ is a Town which has always been the Appenage of a Branch of the _Saxon_ Family: The last Duke that was in Possession of it marry'd a Princess of _Brandenbourg_, Sister of our late King. That Duke chang'd his Religion twice towards the Close of his Life: The first time he turn'd _Catholic_, in Imitation of his Brother the Cardinal of _Saxe_; and the second time he return'd to the _Lutheran_ Religion, in which he had been educated: As he left but one Daughter, who was marry'd to Prince _William_ of _Hesse-Ca.s.sel_, his Dominions ought to have fallen to the Cardinal, and to one of his Nephews; but they being both of them _Catholics_, are disinherited by virtue of an Article of the Treaty of _Westphalia_: Mean time the King of _Poland_, who is a _Catholic_, seiz'd them, and continues Master of them, so that those Dominions are govern'd by a Regency, which receives its Orders from _Dresden_: The King of _Poland_ made an Accommodation with the Cardinal and the young Prince, by giving each of them a Sum of Money, and engaging moreover to pay the late Duke's Debts.

From _Zeitz_ I went to HOFF, the first Town in the Marquisate of _Brandenbourg-Bareith_, from whence I proceeded to _Bareith_, the Capital of the Margraviate of that Name, and from thence to _Erlangen_: Of both these Towns I shall have occasion to make Mention hereafter: From _Erlangen_ I went to NUREMBERG[33], which pa.s.ses for the best built City in all _Germany_: The Houses are all very beautiful, lofty, and perfectly lightsome, and most of them are painted on the Outside, like those of _Augsbourg_: The Town-house, in which the Senate a.s.sembles, is a Structure remarkably beautiful, is very large, and completely well built: The princ.i.p.al Front is adorn'd by Three great Portico's with Marble Pillars: The Inside is every whit answerable to the Magnificence of the Outside, there being very fine Rooms in it, adorn'd with n.o.ble Paintings.

The Territory of _Nuremberg_ is considerable, there being several Towns and Villages depending on it: The _Brandenbourg_ Family have had frequent Disputes with the Republic on account of some Lands, that they claim for their Appurtenances; upon which Blood has been spilt more than once; nay, in the Reign of the Emperor _Frederic_ III. there was actually an open War upon that Occasion: At present _Nuremberg_ is secure against any manner of Insult; it having good Ramparts, an a.r.s.enal well furnish'd, and a numerous Garison.

After I had stay'd Two Days at _Nuremberg_, I set out for AICHSTEDT, which is the See of a Bishop, who is Prince of the Empire: I had the Honour of waiting on the then Bishop of the See, who was of the Family of the Barons of _Knebel_ of _Katzenellebogen_, and a Prelate not only of a n.o.ble Extraction, but extraordinary Merit: Having a Letter of Recommendation to him, I desir'd Audience of him, and he granted it to me with great Marks of Distinction; for he sent me one of his Coaches, and gave me the most civil Reception in the World: Being at that time violently afflicted with the Gout, he was seated, and made me sit down likewise; and after a good deal of Discourse, he invited me to Supper: The Supper was attended by a Concert, which his Musicians came to perform in his Chamber: It was a very numerous Band, and perfectly well adapted: I made my Court to him for the Five or Six Days that I stay'd at _Aichstedt_, and when I went away, he made me a Present of a Gold Snuffbox, which weigh'd 25 Ducats: He took it out of a Cabinet that he shew'd me, in which I observ'd a great many very valuable Jewels, particularly a Diamond Cross, reckon'd worth between 5 and 600,000 Florins: This Prelate had moreover the Complaisance to defray my Expences at my Inn, so that when I came to call for the Reckoning, I was very much surpriz'd to find that I had been beholden to the Prince to clear it.

At my Departure from _Aichstedt_ I took the direct Road to _Ratisbon_, which carry'd me thro' INGOLSTADT, a strong Place of _Bavaria_: It serv'd for the Residence of several Dukes of _Bavaria_, whose Castle is still to be seen, where lives the Governor, who is always a General Officer of the Elector's Troops.

From _Ingolstadt_ Half a Day's Journey brought me to RATISBON, an Imperial City of _Bavaria_, and a Suffragan Bishop.r.i.c.k of _Saltzbourg_: There I found the Cardinal of _Saxe_, who was come thither to preside at the Dyet, in quality of the Emperor's Commissary: He had for his Adjunct the Baron _de Kirchner_, who had the t.i.tle of Joint Commissioner at the Dyet, and had the Care of all Affairs: This Post of Commissioner at the Dyet is the most honourable that the Emperor has in his Nomination; insomuch that a Commissioner does not yield Precedence to an Elector; and his very Instructions import, that if a King comes to _Ratisbon_, he must not yield him the Preference: The Cardinal of _Lamberg_, who was the Cardinal of _Saxe_'s Predecessor in the Post of Commissioner at the Dyet, had some Broil with the Electors, and with the Court of _Vienna_, because he gave way to the Duke of _Lorrain_: This Prince pa.s.sing thro' _Ratisbon_ to take Possession of his Dominions, after the Treaty of _Ryswick_, sent Notice to the Cardinal of his Arrival, upon which he went immediately, and pay'd his Royal Highness a Visit, invited him to dine at his House, sent his Coaches for the Duke, and gave him the Right Hand upon all Occasions: Of this the Electors Envoys complain'd; but the Cardinal, not much intoxicated with his Dignity, made them Answer, That he thought it was a Deference which he ow'd to the Duke of _Lorrain_, not as a Sovereign Prince, but as the Emperor's Nephew: He made Use of the same Argument at the Court of _Vienna_, where, tho' for that one time only, his Conduct was approv'd.

This is not the only Prerogative enjoy'd by the Commissioner to the Dyet: He has a Right to have Guards, and is commonly serv'd by Gentlemen: When an Electoral Minister repairs to the Cardinal for Audience, he is receiv'd as he alights out of his Coach by Four Gentlemen, who conduct him to the Chamber of Audience; There's a Guard-Room, in which there are 50 Soldiers, always drawn up in a Line with Muskets on their Shoulders: Next to this Room is the Chamber of Audience: When the Minister enters it, the Commissioner advances half way to meet him; They then sit down in Two Chairs of State, under the same Canopy; in such manner that the Commissioner is placed in the middle, and the Envoy's almost over against him, but a little to one Side, so that it stands partly upon the Carpet, with the Back turn'd half way towards the Door. When the Audience is over, the Commissioner accompanies the Envoy half way out of the Chamber, from whence Four Gentlemen reconduct him to his Coach: The Envoys of the Princes are only receiv'd by Three Gentlemen. The Commissioner expects them in the Chamber of Audience standing, and leaning upon a Table, which is under a Canopy, with a Chair of State by his Side: When the Envoy is enter'd, the Commissioner sits down, and puts on his Hat, and the Envoy does the same: His Chair of State stands over-against the Commissioner's, with its Back turn'd towards the Door, and plac'd in such a manner, that the Envoy's Feet do but barely touch the Commissioner's Carpet: When the Audience is ended, Three Gentlemen reconduct the Envoy to his Coach: The Deputies of the Free States of the Empire have a Chair with only a Back, and no Arms to it, when they have Audience of the Commissioner, and only one Gentleman receives and reconducts them.

When the Commissioner gives any public Feast, he must send an Invitation to the Ministers of the Electors and of the Princes Three Days before-hand; and the Table must be plac'd under a Canopy, where the Commissioner has the chief Seat; and the Ministers place themselves on his Right and Left, according to the Rank of their Masters.

I had the Honour to pay my Respects to the Cardinal Commissioner, who receiv'd me with all the Good-nature possible, and talk'd to me in such a manner, as gave me Hopes of Success: The Envoys of the Princes spoke to him also in my Favour, and they thought him well dispos'd to serve me: I remain'd thus Four Months at _Ratisbon_ in continual Hopes, but still without seeing my Affairs settled: I was resolv'd to be somewhat urgent with him, that I might know without Delay what I had to depend upon: The Cardinal was so good as not to refuse me to my Face, but he sent me Word by one of the Elector's Envoys, who spoke to me for him, that 'twas in vain for me to stay at _Ratisbon_; that he could do me no Service; and he said also, without giving any Reason for it, that even tho' the whole Dyet was to intercede for me, he would do nothing for me: This Expression, which I could not think an ambiguous one, made me cease to sollicit him.

At this same time the Emperor declar'd the Marriage of his Niece the Archd.u.c.h.ess with _Charles-Albert Cajetan_, the Electoral Prince of _Bavaria_: The Elector of _Bavaria_ had waited for this News a long time, and he receiv'd it almost at the same Instant when he heard that his Third Son the Duke _Clement_, the Bishop of _Munster_ and _Paderborn_, had been elected Coadjutor of _Cologne_, in spite of the Opposition which several Powers had secretly fomented against him in the Chapter. The Cardinal of _Saxe_ had conceiv'd some Hopes of attaining to this Dignity; but he desisted from his Pretensions for a very considerable Sum of Money in Hand, and for the Grant of the Provostship of _Alten-Ottingen_ in _Bavaria_ to the Prince his Nephew. _M. de Plettenberg_, the Envoy of _Munster_, gave a grand Feast on account of his Master's new Dignity: He caus'd a great Room and several Tents to be erected at the Gates of _Ratisbon_, where there was Play under the Tents, and a Supper in the long Room: The Cardinal of _Saxe_ was present at it, and the Envoys with their Ladies, and all the Quality there in general were invited to it: After the Feast there was a Firework, to give time to prepare the long Room for the Ball, which held till Day-light.

Not long after this Entertainment the Cardinal of _Saxe_ set out for _Hungary_, where he was to preside in quality of Primate of that Kingdom, at the Dyet which met there this Year: The Emperor and Empress a.s.sisted at it, to settle the Affairs of the Succession of that Crown, the Right of which the States of the Country acknowledg'd to belong to the Archd.u.c.h.esses, Daughters of their Imperial Majesties, and to their Posterity, in case it should please G.o.d not to grant their Majesties a Son.

After the Cardinal was gone, I stay'd at _Ratisbon_ no longer than was absolutely necessary to take Leave of the Ministers of the Electors and the other Envoys, from whom I had receiv'd all manner of Civilities; for many of them, not content with shewing me the utmost Complaisance, extended their Regards further, and knowing the State of my Affairs, they had behav'd with a Generosity to me, which I shall always remember with Grat.i.tude; and happy should I be, could I one Day or other find an Opportunity to shew them Proofs of it! The only one I can give them now is, to mention their Names to you: The Regard you always had for me will no doubt engage you, _Madame_, to esteem them as such generous Friends deserve, which will be an Advantage they will prize the more, because as they have the Honour to be acquainted with you, they know full well that you never grant your Esteem, where it is not justly merited.

The Count _de Konigsfelt_, the Envoy of _Bavaria_, was one of those who strove most with the Cardinal to serve me: This Minister liv'd very grand at _Ratisbon_: Every thing about him was of the utmost Magnificence: His Table was exquisite, his Music perfectly well compos'd, his Equipages of a n.o.ble Fancy, and he had a great Number of Domestics, all well cloath'd: All this external Appearance diffus'd an Air of Grandeur throughout this Minister's Houshold, which gave a sublime Idea of the Prince whom he represented: The Sollicitations of this Minister for me were warmly seconded by the other Envoys, who also drew their Purse-strings for me: These were the Baron _de Kirchner_, the Joint Commissioner; _M. de Vriesberg_, the Envoy of _Hanover_; _M. de Plettenberg_, the Envoy of _Munster_; the Baron _de Duremberg_; the Envoy of _Hesse-Ca.s.sel_; and _M.

de Hagen_, the Envoy of the Duke of _Saxe-Gotha_.

After having discharg'd what I thought Politeness and Grat.i.tude demanded of me, I set out from _Ratisbon_, to meet my Brother, who was at _Dusseldorff_ solliciting a Law-Suit, which we were jointly carrying on with _Madamoiselle de Pollnitz_, and which we lost, no doubt because it was not the Decree of Providence that we should enjoy the good Things of this World.

When I set out from _Ratisbon_ I took the shortest Road, which was to go thro' _Nuremberg_, _Wurtzbourg_ and _Francfort_: I stopp'd a few Days at WURTZBOURG[34], one of the richest and most considerable Bishop.r.i.c.ks in the Empire: The Bishop a.s.sumes the t.i.tle of Duke of _Franconia_: He, who then possess'd this See, was of the Family _Schonborn_: This Prelate kept up a Court and Houshold as considerable as any Prince in _Germany_: I saw him in all his Glory upon the Festival of the Patron of the Cathedral: He went from his House to the Church, with a Pomp truly Royal. I saw first the Bishop's Harbinger, follow'd by all the Domestics and Gentlemen of his Court: Then came Six Coaches, drawn each by Six Horses, with the Bishop's Arms: Afterwards there follow'd Two of the Prince's Running-Footmen, and 24 of his other Footmen, all dress'd in his Livery, which was Purple, with Lace of green Velvet, mix'd with Silver Lace, and they had Waistcoats of green Cloth, lac'd with Silver: After the Footmen march'd 18 Pages with Cloaks of the Bishop's Livery, lin'd with green Sattin: These were follow'd by above 50 Gentlemen, who walk'd immediately before a stately Coach, in which the Prince rode alone: His Master of the Horse, and the Captain of his Guards walk'd on Foot by the Sides of the Coach, which was guarded by Two Files of the Hundred _Swiss_, dress'd in the antique manner: 50 Life-Guards in Habits of purple Cloth lac'd with Silver, and with Bandoleers of green Velvet, lac'd also with Silver, follow'd the Coach: The March was, clos'd by Three fine Coaches, drawn each by Six Horses, with the Bishop's Arms: Arriving with this Train at his Cathedral, he was receiv'd at the Gate by all the Chapter in a Body: A _Domicellaire_ carry'd the Banner of _Franconia_, and the Marshal of the Bishop's Court bore the Sword of State, to denote the Sovereignty of the Duchy of _Franconia_: The Prelate being conducted to the Vestry, and there array'd in his Pontificalibus, walk'd into the Choir: His Throne was rais'd Three Steps from the Floor, and plac'd under a magnificent Canopy, all of Tapistry, with a Silver Ground: As soon as he was seated the Office began, by a very fine Piece of Music, perform'd by the Bishop's Musicians: After a very short Anthem the Prelate took the Holy Sacrament from the Altar, and carry'd it in Procession out of the Church: He went all round the Cathedral with it, preceded by the _Domicellaire_, and the Marshal of his Court, bearing one the Banner of _Franconia_, and the other the Sword: The Streets thro' which the Procession pa.s.s'd were lin'd with 4000 Men of the Bishop's Troops, which he had order'd into the Town to give the greater Splendor to the Ceremony: When the Procession was return'd to the Church, Ma.s.s was sung to Music, and the Bishop officiated: The Ceremony being ended, he return'd to his Palace, with the same Train that attended him to the Church.

The City of _Wurtzbourg_ resembles the Magnificence of its Bishop, and has Buildings both sacred and profane, which are very grand: I will give you a more particular Account of some of them, after I have added a Word or Two of the City itself: 'Tis an ancient City, and has been subject to many Revolutions: 'Twas taken in 1526 by the Peasants of _Swabia_ and _Franconia_, who rebell'd against their Lords upon a Supposition that _Luther_, who at that time preach'd up Rebellion against the Authority of the Pope, would likewise approve of their Revolt from their Sovereigns: _Luther_, however, instead of approving of their Conduct, wrote strenuously against them, but there was a Necessity of employing other Methods than Remonstrances to reclaim them: _George Truchses_ of _Waldbourg_, Colonel of the _Swabian_ League, soon reduc'd them to their Duty: He fac'd them with a good Number of Soldiers, and the Peasants were so rash as to make Head against them; for which, however, they suffer'd dearly, for they were defeated in several Engagements; and I was a.s.sur'd, that it cost the Lives of above 50,000 of them: After this Defeat _Wurtzbourg_ remain'd quiet till _William of Grumbach_, who had some Complaint against the Bishop, caus'd him to be a.s.sa.s.sinated: The Chapter of _Wurtzbourg_ prepar'd to revenge the Death of their Bishop, but _Grumbach_ resolv'd to prevent them, and putting himself at the Head of 1200 Men, he surpriz'd the City in 1563, abandon'd it to the Pillage of his Soldiers, and by that means forc'd the Chapter to come to Terms with him: The Emperor _Ferdinand_ II. being soon inform'd of _Grumbach_'s Transactions, put him under the Ban of the Empire; whereupon _Grumbach_ retir'd to _John-Frederic_, Duke of _Saxony_, Son to that _John-Frederic_ whom the Emperor _Charles_ V. had degraded from the Electoral Dignity: This Misfortune of the Father ought to have been a Warning to the Son not to grant his Protection to such a Rebel as _Grumbach_: Nevertheless, it was no Restraint to him: The Emperor, incens'd at such Conduct, put the Duke also under the Ban of the Empire, and charg'd _Augustus_, Elector of _Saxony_, to see the Ban put in Execution: This Elector acquitted his Commission so well, that he secur'd _John-Frederic_, and sent him to the Emperor, who caus'd him to be committed Prisoner to _Neustad_, where, after 26 Years Imprisonment, the unhappy Prince dy'd: _Grumbach_, who was also arrested, was condemn'd to be broke alive, and his Accomplices were beheaded.

Ever since this Expedition _Wurtzbourg_ has enjoy'd a profound Tranquillity; which has render'd it so rich and powerful as it is at this Day: Its Buildings both sacred and profane, as I have already had the Honour to mention to you, are very magnificent, and its Cathedral is a vast great Building, which contains immense Wealth: All the Ornaments of the Altar, the Pulpit, and the Two great Candlesticks before the Altar, are of solid Silver, as are also several Statues of our Saviour, the Holy Virgin, and some Saints as big as the Life: Besides all this Wealth there are beautiful and magnificent Hangings in the Choir, which represent some Pa.s.sages of the Old Testament History: The Choir is higher than the Nave by several Steps: The High Altar consists of Four Pillars of black Marble, which form a Semicircle, and support a Cupola of Wood gilt, and very curiously wrought, which has on the Top of all a Ducal Crown: There are Chapels in the Body of the Church, where Vessels of Gold and Silver cast a l.u.s.tre on all Sides: The Bishop was building a Chapel by the Cathedral, which, when finish'd, must be very magnificent, for the Inside was to be lin'd throughout with Marble, which that Prelate had sent for from _Italy_ for the Purpose: He hasten'd it the more, _because_, said he to me upon a time, _I design to have my Bones laid there_. Perhaps this Prince was persuaded in his Mind that he had not long to live, for within a few Months he dy'd: He was succeeded by _Christopher-Francis_ of _Houtten de Stoltzenberg_, heretofore a Member of the Chapter of _Wurtzbourg_.

Besides the Cathedral there are several other fine Churches to be seen here, of which that of the Jesuits is one of the most magnificent: I afterwards went to see the Castle, which stands upon a Hill that looks over all the Town and Country: The Road that leads to it is very rough, and so incommodious for Coaches, that the late Bishop abandon'd it, and chose to dwell in a particular House in the Town, till the n.o.ble Castle which he was building was finish'd: I could not help thinking it wrong in him to leave a Structure so magnificent, and so suitable for a Sovereign, in which it may be said, that no Cost has been spar'd: 'Tis encompa.s.s'd on all Sides with Ramparts and other Works, which secure it from any Attack: The Inner Rooms of the Castle are indeed ancient, but they have lost nothing of that Air of Grandeur which denotes it to have been the Residence of a Prince: I never saw any thing look so fine as the Vaults in this Castle, which, because they can have no more Day-light than what peeps in at the Door, are illuminated by a great many Candles upon gilded Sconces: These Vaults are full of Barrels, most of which are of a monstrous Size, and they are all adorn'd with Carving, and full of Wine, of which they don't fail to let Foreigners have a Taste.

As we go from the Court of the Castle one enters the Court of the a.r.s.enal, which is a Building of Brick and Free-Stone: The lower Rooms are perfectly well arch'd over, and contain about 160 Bra.s.s Guns, the Generality of which are 24 Pounders, and some carry from 40 to 48 Pound Ball. The Pillars that support the Arch are garnish'd as well as the Walls with all the Instruments that are necessary for Gunners, and with every thing belonging to a Train of Artillery, even to the Harness of Horses: The Bases were adorn'd with Boxes full of Musket-b.a.l.l.s: Underneath there are large fine Cellars stor'd with Provisions enough to maintain 6000 Men for a Year. The upper Rooms serve for the Arms, of which I was a.s.sur'd there were enough for 40,000 Men, Horse and Foot, all rang'd in such Order, that 'tis a Pleasure to see them: The hollow s.p.a.ces are full of Flints and b.a.l.l.s: The Court of this a.r.s.enal, and all the Bastions of the Castle are full of Bombs and Bullets: In short, to examine this Castle well, one would take it for the Temple of _Mars_, rather than for the Palace of a Minister of Peace.

The new Castle which the Bishop was building when I went into his Capital stands in the Town itself, near the Gate that leads to _Nuremberg_: 'Twill be one of the finest in _Europe_, if the Model I have seen of it be exactly pursued: All the Foundations were already finish'd, and about a Fourth Part of the Castle carry'd up to the first Story: But tho' there was no Want of Labour, yet it requires a good deal of Time to bring to Perfection a Structure which is 360 and odd Feet in Front, and forms Five great Courts: The Bishop's Design was to make the princ.i.p.al Stair-case of Marble, and to line the Chapel, the Guard-Chamber, the great Rooms of the Palace, and all the Chimneys and Doors with the same: The Gardens were to be answerable to the Magnificence of the Building, and the Bishop had actually demolish'd the Ramparts, and fill'd up the Ditches; but Death stopp'd him in the midst of his Undertaking, and he has left his Successor to take care, that the Work be finish'd according to the Plan of it, which has been admir'd by those who are good Judges.

After I had seen the Two Castles, I went to visit the great Hospital, which is a very fine Establishment: This Building is compos'd of a great Pavilion in the middle of Two very large Wings: The princ.i.p.al Entrance is thro' the Pavilion, to which there is an Ascent by Two Steps; and on the Right and Left are Two fine Galleries in Form of Arches, which serve as Corridors to lead to the necessary Offices for maintaining the poor Pensioners of the Hospital: At the Top of the Stair-case of the Pavilion is an Entry, which leads to a couple of close Galleries, in which are the Chambers of the Pensioners, and to a large fine Room, all over carv'd, painted and gilt: On the Left Hand are Two great Closets, in which the Bishops retire during the Holy Week. The second Story is like the first; there's a Room like to that I have been speaking of, wherein the Bishop, a.s.sisted by his Chapter, washes the Feet of the Poor upon _Holy-Thursday_, and afterwards regales, and serves them at Table, accompany'd by the Canons of his Chapter, who, when all is over, dine with him in the Room below Stairs: Behind this Hospital is a very fine Garden, adorn'd with Fountains, Grotto's, and a fine Orangery, kept in very good Order; which is for the Pensioners to walk in when they please: The late Bishop, who was in every thing magnificent, design'd to enlarge this Building with Four Pavilions, like to that subsisting, which would have form'd a fine Court in the middle: There are other Hospitals also at _Wurtzbourg_ to the Number of 15 or 16, all so well endow'd, as fully proves the Good-nature and Wealth of the People of this Country.

After I had stay'd at _Wurtzbourg_, I embark'd on the _Maine_, in which is most pleasant Sailing betwixt Vineyards and fine Plains, that form a Prospect as agreeably diversify'd as can be wish'd: When I arriv'd at _Francfort_ I heard of the Death of _Madamoiselle de Pollnitz_, to whose Estate in _Holland_ I was joint Heir with my Brother, but her other Estates went to her Mother, who was still living.

From _Francfort_ I went to _Dusseldorp_, where I found my Brother, who was still in an ill Humour with the Judges, for having made us lose our Cause: For my Part, as I was more inur'd to Disappointments, I endeavour'd to comfort him, and advis'd him to go to _Berlin_, and sell what Estate we had there: The Death of my dear Cousin set us at Liberty to proceed to this Sale; for now the Entail was only between my Brother and me: My Brother set out therefore for _Berlin_, and I went to HAMBOURG, to wait the Issue of the Sale: I stay'd there from _November_ to _Easter_, and spent the Winter very happily: I have already had the Honour to acquaint you, speaking of this City, that here was generally good Company: But this Winter there was more than usual, most of the People of Quality that had Houses in the Neighbourhood coming thither to pa.s.s the Season, and there were moreover several Ministers sent to the Circle of _Lower Saxony_, who were for most Part charming good Company: Such a one was _M. Poussin_, the Envoy of _France_, who was really a Minister of great Parts and uncommon Merit: The other Envoys were all likewise choice Companions: Besides these Ministers there were several other Families at _Hambourg_ where Foreigners of any tolerable Rank were perfectly well entertain'd: The Count _de Nat_, a Lieutenant-General in the Emperor's Service, and formerly Minister of State to the Duke of _Holstein_, and General of his Forces, kept a grand House there, which was noted for one of the best in _Hambourg_, where was a great Resort of Company every Day without the least Confusion: And there was a charming Air of Liberty throughout, which receiv'd additional l.u.s.tre from the n.o.ble and gracious Deportment of the Countess, that Minister's Wife, to all Strangers that came to her: I need not give you a more particular Account of this Lady; for I remember to have heard you speak of her, as a Person of distinguish'd Merit, and who, with a great Share of Wit, was to the utmost degree polite. The Count _de Guldenstein_ made a considerable Figure also at _Hambourg_; his Table was delicate, and always furnish'd with the best of Company; judge, _Madame_, whether I could think the time tedious in a City, where from Morning till Night there was a continual Round of Pleasure: We din'd to Day at one House, To-morrow at another; and in the Afternoons there was Play, which was sometimes interrupted by Adjournments to the Opera, with which I was very well pleas'd: I found the Orchestre excellent, the Decorations n.o.ble, the Dances very well executed, the Actors richly dress'd, and such as endeavour'd to play their Parts for the best.

I set out from _Hambourg_ with a numerous Company to go to the Fair of KIEL, which begins the next Day after _Epiphany_, and holds Three Weeks: All this time _Hambourg_ is a perfect Desert, for every body hurries to this Fair, because 'tis there that they are commonly paid their Rents, that Leases are renew'd with the Farmers, and that Money is let out to Advantage: Tho' I had no Business of this nature to transact there, yet I was determin'd not to stay behind so much good Company as went from _Hambourg_.

The Town itself is inconsiderable; it stands between Hills on an Arm of the Sea, where it forms a Lake, and washes the Walls of the Duke's Castle, which is in very bad Repair, and quite unfurnish'd: And there's a Garden to it, which is in as bad Order as the Building: This Town is so populous all the Fair-time, that 'tis difficult to get a Lodging: The Gentry meet every Evening at a House, where is Variety of Play, and very often there are Parties made for Supper, which is generally follow'd with a Ball: There is moreover a _German_ Comedy, which, tho' detestable, is well frequented.

After the Fair was over, I went and pa.s.s'd Two Days with a Friend of mine at an Estate of his Three Leagues from _Kiel_: Then I return'd to _Hambourg_, where I stay'd till _Easter_, and having receiv'd News from _Berlin_, that no Purchaser could be found who was willing to give so much Money for my Estate as I demanded; I resolv'd to go thither, in order to make some Settlement about it with my Brother; I kept there _incog._ as well as I could, for I made myself known to only Two or Three Friends besides my Steward: When my Business was done I set out from _Berlin_ with my Brother, in order to go to his House at _Zell_; where I intended to stay till the proper Season for taking the Waters at _Carelsbadt_.

When that time came, I departed from _Zell_: I stay'd some time at BLANKENBERG, where the Empress's Father and Mother then resided: This is no considerable Town: There is a Castle, which, by its Situation upon a very high Hill, is mightily inconvenient for the Duke's Domestics, who all live in the Town: 'Tis an old Building, which the Father of the present Duke has caus'd to be repair'd and fitted up, as well as possible in the modern Taste: The Apartments are small, the only large one being a very beautiful Saloon, the Walls whereof are adorn'd with Pilasters, and Pictures between them of the Princes and Princesses, Parents to the Duke and d.u.c.h.ess: And at the End of the Saloon are Chimneys, over which are the Pictures of the Duke and d.u.c.h.ess themselves at full Length.

To this Castle is a very fine Park adjoining, in which the d.u.c.h.ess has a Menagery, or rather, a Farm-house, where she has a great Number of Cows that she sent for from _Swisserland_, in a Stable which is kept extraordinary clean.