In Travelling from _Pau_ to BAYONNE 'twas plain that we were got out of _Languedoc_, the Roads being terrible, and the Inns detestable, for which Reason I did not halt at all by the Way, but made Haste to _Bayonne_: The next Day after I arriv'd, I went to pay a Visit to the King's Lieutenant, who commanded there: He was a Native of _Canada_, and, if I am not mistaken, had been a Major or Lieutenant-Colonel in the Regiment of _Normandy_: The Duke Regent had made him a Brigadier, and at the same time created him a Knight of _St. Lewis_, at that great Promotion of Knights which he made at the Beginning of the War with _Spain_: He had given him for his a.s.sistant one _Dadoncourt_, as a Man that he could depend on; and 'twas this Gentleman that receiv'd me, the King's Lieutenant being at that time absent from _Bayonne_: I lik'd this _Dadoncourt_ at first Sight: He entertain'd me politely, and when I told him my Intention to go to _Spain_; he said, I might do as I pleas'd, and that he saw nothing to hinder it: He came next Day to see me, and invited me to dine with him: I accepted his Kindness, but afterwards repented it; for the Company was far from being select, and the Conversation very much disgusted me: In my first Interview with _Dadoncourt_ I made Mention to him of a Visit that I had paid to the Count _de S----_ in _Languedoc_: He talk'd of this to me very much while we were at Dinner, and he declar'd his Astonishment, that the Duke Regent had restor'd him to his Liberty, instead of cutting off his Head, as he had deserv'd: _Really_, said he, with some Warmth of Temper, to which I fancy the Wine had in some measure contributed, _His Royal Highness was too good-natur'd; all those Rascals, that presum'd to have a Hand in the Prince of_ Cellamare_'s Affair, ought to have paid for it with their Heads_: I could not help being amaz'd at the Man's Pertness, and told him very mildly, that the Regent had behav'd most wisely, and that it would have been too cruel to put People of the first Quality to Death, the Spilling of whose Blood would perhaps have rous'd some Vengeance: _Alas! Sir_, said he, _What could have been done? The Duke of_ Orleans _was sure of the Guards and Garisons; every body in the Country would certainly have stood up in his Defence, and I myself would have been the Hangman to have tuck'd up the first Gentleman that had offer'd to make a Disturbance_: I plainly saw that I had to do with a surly Companion; and perceiving also that he was fuddled, I let him run on as much as he would, in magnifying the Attachment he pretended he had to the Duke Regent; but made a Promise to myself, that it should be the last time I would visit a Man that was so b.l.o.o.d.y-minded.

After Dinner was over, I went to have Audience of the Queen of _Spain_, _Mary-Anne_ of _Neubourg_, the Dowager of _Charles_ II. When I came to the Palace, or rather to a very pitiful House, where the Queen was lodg'd, I found one of her Equerries, who carry'd me to an Antichamber, and leaving me for a few Moments, he came again, and conducted me to the Apartment of the d.u.c.h.ess of _Liquares_, Lady of Honour to the Queen; who was prodigiously civil to me, but, as she understood no Language besides the _Spanish_, it was impossible for us to converse, otherwise than by Signs, of which she gave me a good Number, and which I answer'd by as many Bows.

As good Luck would have it, we were disengag'd from one another by an Order that came to her, to carry me to the Queen: I found her Majesty standing all alone in her Chamber, and dress'd in Black after the _Spanish_ Mode: I saw in the next Chamber some of the Maids of Honour, who were also in the _Spanish_ Dress, and peep'd in at the Door, which was left half open: The Queen receiv'd me very graciously, ask'd my Name and my Country, and seem'd overjoy'd to find a _German_, who was tolerably acquainted with a Country for which she had always an Affection: She inquir'd what News I brought of the Elector and the Princes her Brothers: I was qualify'd to satisfy her Majesty in all those Questions, because I had the Honour of paying my Court punctually to the Elector Palatine, and the Princes her Brothers: In fine, after an Audience of an Hour and more, the Queen dismiss'd me, when I stoop'd with one Knee to the Ground, and kiss'd her Hand, according to the Custom that is observ'd in _Spain_.

The next and the following Days I had the Honour to pay my Duty to her; sometimes in the Capuchins Convent, where she heard Ma.s.s very often; and sometimes in that of the Cordeliers, to which her Majesty went almost every Afternoon to Prayers: At other times I repair'd to a Garden behind the House, where her Majesty frequently took a Walk after she had din'd.

This Princess always express'd herself in such a kind familiar manner as charm'd me, and she was often glad to be disenc.u.mber'd from that Ceremony, which is no less fatiguing to the Princes who grant Audience, than to those who are admitted to it: She did me the Honour to ask me one Day, Whether I did not wonder to see her in such mean Lodgings, and with such a despicable Court? I own'd to her, that at first I was a little surpriz'd at her Majesty's preferring such a Mansion to the old Castle in the Town, which really look'd more like a Palace than the House she liv'd in: _But_, said she, _I am so us'd to my little Habitation, that I can't find in my Heart to leave it: I retir'd to it during the Contention between the Houses of_ Austria _and_ Bourbon, _that I might not be so much exposed to Company, as I must have been unavoidably, if I had resided in the Castle, where every Pa.s.senger, either from_ Spain _or_ France, _would no doubt have been desirous of seeing me; all which Visits would infallibly have given Umbrage to one or other of the Two Parties, if not to Both; and I had good Reasons to keep fair with each._

Another Day, when I had the Honour to discourse with her about _Spain_ and _Germany_, I took the Freedom to tell her, that I wonder'd why her Majesty chose rather to stay at _Bayonne_, than to live in one or other of those Countries where I fancy'd she would have more Authority, and more People of Quality to attend her. _As for your Persons of Quality_, said the Queen, _I do not give myself much Trouble about them: All Men are alike to crown'd Heads, and are great no farther than as we bring them to our Courts, and honour them with our Confidence. A Man that you now call a Scrub, perhaps, if I were to give him a Post To-morrow, and admit him to my Service, he is to me as great a Lord as if his Ancestors had liv'd and dy'd in the same Employment. And as for residing in_ Spain _or in_ Germany, _I have weighty Reasons against dwelling in either. For in_ Spain _I should be oblig'd to live in a Convent, which is my utter Aversion. In_ Germany _I should, indeed, have all my Family about me; but the Court of_ Spain _would, perhaps, be uneasy at my living in the Empire, and I should be teiz'd in respect to my Dowry, which I am very willing to preserve_.

All these Reasons, and what was more than all, a long Acquaintance, made her loth to quit _Bayonne_; and that Retirement she enjoy'd there, was more agreeable to her Taste, than the Bustle of a numerous Court, where very often the Prince and the Courtier tread on one another's Toes. The Air of Freedom which reign'd at this little Court, and the Queen's Goodness in conversing with me so often, was the reason that I put off my Journey to _Spain_ from one Day to another. At last, however, after various Delays, I prepar'd in good earnest for my Departure. But at the very Time when I thought I had nothing more to do than to take my Leave of her Majesty, a very disgraceful Incident happen'd to me, which put me as much out of Conceit with _Bayonne_ as I was before in Love with it. By some imprudent Jokes that I had thrown out in Conversation, I had incurr'd the Displeasure of the King's Lieutenant, who made use of a specious Pretext in order to be reveng'd of me. I will tell you my Tale in a few Words as follows:

There was a Woman at the Queen's Court, who, by her Frankness, in which there was a Mixture of Impertinence, made her Court to the Queen with so much Art, that her Majesty was kinder to her than any Services she was capable of performing could deserve at her Hands. This Woman's Name was _la Borde_: She was a Merchant's Widow, but married afterwards clandestinely to the Queen's _Major-Domo_, and had the intire Government of her Majesty's House, where she did not fail to give her daily Attendance.

The Queen having permitted this Woman to sit in her Presence, it made her so vain, that she forgot her mean Original, and affected the Air of a Princess; but so ill did it become her, that she was quickly hated for it, not only by the Queen's Officers, but by the whole City of _Bayonne_. The only Person who was attach'd to her, was the King's Lieutenant; and that, for no other Reason, but because this Officer being in a poor Plight when he came first to _Bayonne_, and having moreover little to depend on, was oblig'd to solicit the Queen for some Gratifications, in which _Madame la Borde_ had employ'd her Interest to serve him: And serve him she did without much Difficulty, because the Queen is so good-natur'd and generous, that she is never better pleas'd than when she is bestowing Favours. The Grotesque Figure of the King's Lieutenant, and the queer Dress of the Lady _la Borde_, were an inexhaustible Fund of Mirth for the Queen's Houshold. In short, 'twas impossible for a Person of the most serious Gravity, not to laugh on the one hand at the old shock Pate of the Lieutenant, who was vulgarly call'd _The Eternal Father_, and on the other hand to see Dame _la Borde_, who was commonly wrapp'd up in Three or Four Night-Gowns of different Colours one over another, and one shorter than the other, whose favourite Head-Geer was Cornets fix'd on, with a careless Air, by Scarlet Ribbons, and who had a monstrous Nosegay of Flowers ty'd to one Side of her, with a Straw-colour'd Ribbon, and the Picture of some unknown Saint fasten'd also to the other, by a Ribbon of the same Colour: And to all these Gowns, a little Lackey, every whit as ridiculous as the Mistress, was the Train-Bearer. I profess to you, _Madame_, that I could not contain myself at the Sight of such ridiculous Figures; and therefore, being once with some Company at Supper, when I was in a gay Humour, I let fall some very severe Banters upon this charming Couple; of which the King's Lieutenant being inform'd, vow'd Revenge; and I was advertis'd by a _German_ Cordelier, who was the Queen's Confessor, that there was a Design to apprehend me. But not being conscious of any Crime I had committed to deserve it, I thought, at first, 'twas only given out to terrify me.

Nevertheless, I went to _Dadoncourt_, and, without mentioning any Name, acquainted him of the Warning that had been given to me. He swore by his Honour, and call'd to G.o.d to witness it, that he never had a Thought of arresting me; and that I was free to go when and where I pleas'd. Upon this I went back to my Quarters, almost persuaded that I had been falsly alarm'd; but no sooner was I in my Chamber, but the Major of the Place enter'd, with a subaltern Officer and a couple of Soldiers, with their Bayonets at the End of their Musquets. He told me, that he was come in the King's Name to arrest me, and that he had Orders to commit me to the Citadel, together with my _Valet de Chambre_. He also demanded all my Papers, and the Keys of my Coffers; and whatever he ask'd for I gave him.

He left my Cloaths, _&c._ to the Care of my Landlord, charging him to be answerable for them; and then carry'd me to the Citadel, where I was put into one Room, and my _Valet de Chambre_ into another; and a Centinel was clapp'd at my Door, who was order'd to let no Person whatsoever come to speak to me. Towards the Evening, when they brought me Supper, I desir'd Pen, Ink, and Paper, which was presently granted, and I wrote to the King's Lieutenant, to be inform'd of the Reason why he had put me under an Arrest, and at the same Time to know whether I might be permitted to write into _France_ to the Duke Regent and my Friends. He sent me Answer next Day, that the only Cause of my being a Prisoner was, that I had discover'd too much Friendship to the Count _de S----_: That I ought to remember what I said of the Count before his Face, in Presence of Witnesses, which had given him a Suspicion that I was but too deeply concern'd in the Conspiracy he had fomented against the Regent: That in Consequence, especially as he had not the Honour to know me, he should have thought it a Failure of his Duty, if he had not secur'd my Person: That, for the rest, he would write to Court, and that, if it appear'd I was not guilty of any thing, I should soon be set at Liberty. He concluded his Letter with a.s.surances of his Friendship, and a Protestation that he would do what he could to serve me.

Since I knew not what I could do better, as my Circ.u.mstances then were, I was glad to depend upon the good Offices which the King's Lieutenant proffer'd to do me; and in order to compose myself a little, I lay a Bed as long as ever 'twas possible; for the only Remedy that could render my Imprisonment tolerable was Sleep: But when I awak'd, a thousand different Thoughts rack'd my Brain: Projects brooded over Projects, and I imagin'd Schemes without Number for Deliverance out of my Sc.r.a.pe; but they were no other than so many Castles in the Air, which instantly vanish'd as soon as I came to serious Reflection.

Having pa.s.s'd my Time thus for several Days, I receiv'd a Visit, which at first did not please me. Who should enter my Room, but an Officer, a Serjeant, and Four Soldiers, with their Bayonets in their Musquets. The Officer told me I must go with him to the Major of the Citadel, who was appointed to examine me. Being in a Situation wherein 'twas my wisest way to be tractable, I follow'd the Officer. When we came before the Major, we found him sitting in an Elbow-Chair: He was wonderful civil to me, and desir'd me to excuse him for not rising up to receive me, because he was so afflicted with the Gout that he could not stir. Then he pray'd me to sit down, and ask'd me who and what I was, whence and whither I was bound, and the like: To all those Questions I return'd very _Laconic_ Answers, which, together with the Questions, were reduc'd to Writing, and I was made to sign them; and then I was carry'd back to my Chamber.

Two Days after this my _Valet de Chambre_ was set at Liberty, and had Leave to attend me. I was also permitted to receive a Visit from one Father _Thomas_, a _German_ Capuchin. These two Favours, granted both at once, pleas'd me mightily; and I entertain'd great Hopes that my own Liberty was approaching: So that every time I heard the Rattle of the Keys, I imagin'd my Keeper was coming to tell me that I was no longer his Prisoner. I flatter'd myself that the Duke Regent would give Orders for my Discharge, and therefore was impatient to hear from him: But when I heard, the Message was very different from what I expected: For _Dadoncourt_ sent me a Note, acquainting me, that he had receiv'd Orders from Court to confine me more closely. He not only executed his Orders, but I really believe he exceeded them; for, not content with depriving me a second Time of my _Valet de Chambre_, and forbidding Father _Thomas_ to come near me, 'twas no Thanks to him that I had not been starv'd to Death with Hunger and Cold. He was afraid that my bare Imprisonment was not Punishment enough, and therefore he treated me with all the Severity that could be.

My Commons were retrench'd one half; and as to Firing, it was intirely suppress'd, for fear I should set Fire to the Citadel. I therefore wrote to him, and made an Offer to purchase it at my own Expence, if he would give me Leave: But he made me Answer, that a _Prussian_ could not be so chilly as to be sensible of the Cold in _Guyenne_; and he was so impertinent as to add, that if I was really cold, he would have me keep my Bed. Nor was this all: Money was so scarce with me, that I was resolv'd to discount the Bank Bills I had left, which were almost sunk to nothing.

But _Dadoncourt_ no sooner heard of it, than he sent the Banker an Order not to discount them, for fear, perhaps, that I should make use of the Money to corrupt my Keepers. Moreover, he abus'd his Authority to such a Degree, that he caus'd my Cloaths &_c_. to be sold, to pay for what I had run up at my Quarters while I stay'd at _Bayonne_. I would fain have prevented this Sale, but 'twas to no Purpose, for I could not get Leave so much as to send a Friend thither to take Care that every thing was done with tolerable Decency; so that _Dadoncourt's Valet de Chambre_ bought the whole for one Eighth Part of the Value; and I could never get a just Account what the Profit of the Sale amounted to. 'Tis true, that when I was restor'd to my Liberty, they did not demand any Money of me.

So many Injuries offer'd to me, one upon the Neck of another, exasperated me not a little. I wrote several Letters not only to the Duke of _Orleans_, but _M. le Blanc_, Secretary of War, and sent them to the Post-House at _Acqs_ by a Soldier, who undertook to deliver them for some Money, which I handed to him, together with my Letters, thro' a c.h.i.n.k of my Door: But it all signify'd nothing. I likewise wrote a Letter to the Queen of _Spain_, but that Princess, who then deem'd me a State Criminal, did not care to be concern'd for me: Which Denial of her's completed my Despair, and I took it so much to Heart, that I fell sick, but they would not allow me a Physician.

At this very Time the Baron _de Montbel_ came to _Bayonne_, and hearing that I was a Prisoner in the Citadel, he desir'd to see me. This Baron, who was by Birth a _Frenchman_, went to _Berlin_ at the Time of the Revocation of the Edict of _Nantes_: He had an Employment given him at that Court, and had been a Captain in the Regiment which was my late Father's. He was going at this Time to _Spain_. _Dadoncourt_ refus'd point-blank to let him come and see me. Then the Baron desir'd Leave to send me his Compliments by my _Valet de Chambre_, which _Dadoncourt_ granted, but 'twas only to affront me the more grosly; for my _Valet de Chambre_ was no sooner enter'd into the Citadel, but he was search'd, in order to know if he had not Letters for me; and none being found upon him, _Dadoncourt_ said he was sure that the Baron had given him Letters to deliver to me, and that he must and should produce them. My Man still denying that he had receiv'd any Letter, was thrown into a Dungeon, where he was threatened he should lie till he rotted, if he did not confess that Letters had been given or offer'd to him for me.

This, _Madame_, was my melancholy Situation at _Bayonne_, having been arrested on sham Pretences, pining with Hunger and Cold, depriv'd of all Help, abandon'd by a Princess on whose Protection I had great Dependance, and having nothing to comfort me: I had a good Conscience indeed, which did not reproach me with any thing laid to my Charge; but this is a weak Support, when a Man is to cope with such Enemies as make no more to destroy the Innocent than the Guilty! A Persecution so unjust plung'd me sometimes into Melancholy, and at other times made me raving mad; so that when I came to myself, I was afraid I should lose all my Reason. At last this Disturbance of my Mind, all these Pa.s.sions subsided happily in a Philosophical Calm, which restor'd me to myself. When I was composed, I reason'd justly enough: I consider'd, that to fret and vex myself to Death, would be the greatest Folly I could be guilty of; and that there was no other Remedy but Time and Patience: I resolv'd therefore to acquiesce like a true Philosopher; and I said to myself, that I had nothing more to do but to be as easy as I could in the Citadel, till _Lewis_ XV. was declar'd of Age.

I had just begun to be reconcil'd to my Chamber and to Silence, when News was brought me of my Liberty: 'Twas on the 31st of _January_ that _Dadoncourt's Valet de Chambre_ came and told me, that his Master had received Orders from Court to let me out of the Citadel; but that, as it was late, he desir'd me to stay there that Night, and that next Day I might go where I pleas'd: I consented to lye one Night more in the Citadel; but next Day _Dadoncourt_, without Regard to the a.s.surance he had sent me that I should have my full Liberty, and, by Consequence, either stay or set out that Instant, as I pleas'd; sent to ask me what time I intended to go for _Spain_; adding, that he had received Orders to send me thither, and not to suffer me to stay any longer in _Bayonne_: I return'd him a short Answer, but said enough to him to give him to understand, that I was not in a Condition to set out, because, as my whole Substance consisted in Bank Bills, which were at that time worth little or nothing, I was under a Necessity of staying till I had discounted them, and that in the mean time I was content to remain in the Citadel, till I could raise Money, unless he himself would be so kind as to a.s.sist me: I added, that if I must not discount my Bills, I desir'd Leave at least to go to _Holland_, where I should find Relations or Friends who would serve me: _Dadoncourt_ return'd me an Answer with all the Sauciness and Impertinence of a Man of his Kidney: He sent to tell me, that he was neither a Money-Changer, nor a Banker, to discount my Bills; that I could not stay in the Citadel, because he had Orders to turn me out of it; and lastly, that he would not suffer me to go to _Holland_, because he was by the same Order injoin'd to send me to _Spain_: I thought this a blunt Sort of an Answer; for, in short, as he knew who I was, he might, and even ought, to have us'd me more politely; and even supposing that his Orders were as urgent as he pretended, yet a Gentleman would have known better than to notify them in that manner: I therefore saw myself under a Necessity of travelling to _Spain_, with nothing but my Staff to support me; which would certainly have been the Case, had it not been for Father _Thomas_, who helped me to 40 Pistoles, upon Two thousand Livres worth of Bank Bills; which Money I made use of to bear my Travelling-Expences: The Luggage I had to carry was not very c.u.mbersome; for I have had the Honour to acquaint you, that _Dadoncourt_ had taken Care of that by selling off what I had. My Journey to _Spain_ being reckon'd an Affair of the utmost Importance, I had a Guard put upon me to conduct me to the Frontiers, where they were so civil, as to shew me the Orders from Court, which were executed with the utmost Strictness: They were contain'd in a Letter directed to _Dadoncourt_ from _M. le Blanc_ the Secretary at War, in Substance as follows: _His Royal Highness is willing, Sir, that you should release the Baron_ de Pollnitz, _who is a Prisoner in the Citadel of_ Bayonne, _on Condition that he depart the Kingdom; and for this Reason I desire you to cause him to be conducted to the Frontier of_ Spain.

My Guard took Leave of me on the Frontiers and I continued my Journey to _Pampeluna_: By the Way I saw the famous _Pyrenean_ Mountains, the Pa.s.sage of which is very different from that of the _Alps_, there being not an Inn to be met with but what looks much more like a Den of Thieves: The Inhabitants of these Mountains have something mischievous in their very Physiognomy, which makes Travellers afraid of 'em. I was forc'd to spend one Night with my _Valet de Chambre_ in a Cabaret, where there being a Score of these Fellows, we resolv'd to sit up all Night without going to Bed; and I fancy, that in so doing, we acted very wisely, for those Mountaineers look'd like a Parcel of Cut-throats: I set out as early as possible in the Morning from this horrible Place for PAMPELUNA, where I arriv'd towards the Evening: I alighted at an Inn, which was recommended to me as the best in Town, but I found it every whit as bad as those that I had met with in my Pa.s.sage from _Bayonne_: The Bread, the Wine, their Meat, Bedding and every thing was detestably bad: However, as I thought I had a better Chance for my Life there, than in the Houses of Entertainment among the Mountains; I made myself amends for sitting up all the last Night, and slept soundly till next Day.

I went and paid a Visit to the Prince of _Castillone_ Viceroy of _Navarre_, who was prodigiously civil to me: I let him into the true State of my Affairs, and what I had suffer'd from the King's Lieutenant at _Bayonne_: This n.o.bleman seem'd to be concern'd at my present Condition, and was so kind as to make me an Offer of whatever I wanted; but as to the Treatment I had met with from the King's Lieutenant, it surpriz'd him not at all: He told me too, that I was not the first Man who had been so treated, and that he could not imagine how it happen'd, that the Regent was not informed of all the Acts of Injustice committed at _Bayonne_: He advis'd me to write to his Royal Highness, and to give him an exact Account of all my Treatment: _If this_, said he, _does not procure you some Amends, I am certain, at least, that 'twill get him a Reprimand_: I did as _M. de Castillone_ advis'd me; I wrote both to the Regent and to _M. le Blanc_, but 'twas all to no Purpose; for my Enemies had made such a Devil of me to the Prince and the Minister, that not content with returning me no Answer, they wrote to _M. de M----_, who had the Care of the _French_ Affairs at _Madrid_, to thwart me in every thing he could: And he, for his Part, punctually observ'd his Instructions, not so much in pure Obedience to his Prince, as for the Pleasure he took in doing me Mischief.

_M. de Castillone_ was so good-natur'd as to shew me what was most remarkable at _Pampeluna_: We took a Walk together without the Town, the Situation of which I thought very fine: 'Tis encompa.s.s'd with Walls, and fortify'd with Bastions and Half-Moons: Yet all this Fortification would be of little Defence, were it not for the Citadel, which was repair'd, and considerably augmented, during the Ministry of the Cardinal _Alberoni_.

All the Road from _Pampeluna_ to _Madrid_ is quite disagreeable, there being nothing to be seen but rusty Fields, here and there a ragged Village; and what was still more vexatious, Houses of Entertainment, where there was scarce any thing to be had: But 'tis much worse when we leave _Navarre_, and enter _Castile_, there being nothing at all to be had in their Public-Houses: You are accommodated with a Chamber indeed, and that's all; for if you want to eat any thing, you must send out your Domestics to buy it, and dress it yourselves: But, however, the Necessaries of Life may be easily had any where, and at a moderate Price: I travell'd thro' the whole Country without meeting with any Disaster, which is not a little astonishing, Murders and Robberies being very common in _Spain_.

I arriv'd on a _Sunday_-Night at ALCALA, a City in _New-Castile_, famous for its University: This City is oblig'd for its Magnificence to the Cardinal _Ximenes_, who, being Prime Minister under _Ferdinand_ of _Arragon_, and _Isabel_ of _Castile_, spar'd no Cost to render this City one of the most beautiful in _Spain_: The first thing that he did was to build very fine Colleges; and when he became Regent of _Spain_, after the Death of _Ferdinand_, he founded an University here.

'Tis but Seven Leagues from _Alcala_ to MADRID, but this Capital is not to be seen till one comes just upon it, because it stands in a Bottom on the River _Mancanares_: The Entrance into _Madrid_ has a feint Resemblance for a little way, with the Entrance into _Rome_, thro' the Gate _del Popoli_: Three Streets, in the Shape of a Goose's Foot, lead to the Centre of the City: I went into that on the Right Hand, which carry'd me to the Square of _St. Domingo_, where was a _French_ Inn, to which I had been recommended: When I alighted out of my Chaise, I was heartily embrac'd by a Man whom I had formerly seen in the Service of King _Stanislaus_ of _Poland_, and afterwards at _Paris_, but he was oblig'd to fly from that City, for Fear of falling into the Hands of Justice.

This Man was accus'd of being One in Three who had robb'd and murder'd an Abbe: Tho' he was run away, the Trial took its Course, and he was condemn'd in Outlawry to be broke alive on the Wheel, which Sentence was executed accordingly in Effigie: After several Tours he came at last to _Madrid_, where all that come from _France_ are receiv'd with open Arms: He had chang'd his Name of _Le G----_ for that of the Baron _D----_. I recollected him perfectly the very Moment that he embraced me, but his Affair in _France_ was still so fresh in my Memory, that I did not think fit to make a very affectionate Return for the Civilities of this new Baron, but ask'd a great many Pardons that I could not call him to Mind: The Man seem'd still very eager to be known to me, and said, _Pray, are not you the Baron_ de Pollnitz? _Don't you remember to have seen me at_ Berlin, _then at_ Hanover, _&c._ I still pretended Ignorance; but my Gentleman proceeded to rub up my Memory, and talk'd a great deal to me of his Journey to _Paris_, and mention'd several Circ.u.mstances: Being at last fatigued with all this long Detail, I thought it would oblige him to give him some Glimpse that I knew him; and therefore mention'd the Names of several People that we had been with together, to make him believe that I was in Quest of his; and at length seeing him overjoy'd to think that I was like to find out his Name by beating the Bush, I chose to give him that Satisfaction, and said to him, tho' with an Air of great Uncertainty, _Pray, Sir, Was not your Name_Le G----? At the very Mention of this Name my Friend chang'd Countenance, turn'd from red to pale, and retir'd at last without giving me an Answer, or, at least, 'twas with such a low Voice, that I could not understand a Syllable of what he said. For my own Part, I thought of nothing but calling to my Landlord for a Room; and after I had rested myself a little, I went down at Night to sup at my Landlord's Table, where some of the Company happen'd to be the very same Officers that had seen me talking with _Le G----_. They ask'd me, if I was acquainted with the Gentleman that accosted me, and what was his Name: I made no Scruple to satisfy them, and not knowing that he had alter'd his Name upon his leaving _France_, I said, without thinking any Harm, that 'twas _Le G----_, I had no sooner p.r.o.nounc'd his Name, but one of the Company cry'd out, _Ah! Morblieu! the very Man that a.s.sa.s.sinated the Abbe_ V. _How durst such a Villain come hither to sollicit an Employment!_ I plainly saw that I had committed an Oversight, in discovering a Name to those Strangers, which had put the Person who bore it so much out of Countenance; but I thought at the same time, that _Le G----_ had been guilty of a much greater, in putting me under that Necessity: I endeavour'd to set all to Rights again, by saying, that perhaps I was mistaken, and that the Baron _D----_ was not _Le G----_: but they would not admit of it; they all exaggerated the Baseness of the Murder that had forc'd him to fly from _France_; and, in short, the Story was so toss'd about in an Instant, that the pretended Baron was oblig'd to leave _Madrid_: I have been told since, that he retir'd to _Portugal_, where Fortune has been pretty Favourable to him.

I had not been long at _Madrid_ before I met with several of my Acquaintance: The very Day after my Arrival I receiv'd Visits from above a Score of Officers, _French_ and _Germans_, whom I had seen at several Courts: At my Quarters I also found the Baron _de Montbel_, who had taken so much fruitless Pains to inquire after my Health when I was a Prisoner in the Citadel of _Bayonne_: To be short, in a very little time, I found as many, and even more Acquaintance than I wanted, especially at my first coming to _Madrid_, where I did not aim at keeping any Company more than was necessary to my obtaining an Employment: I thought immediately how I should be introduc'd to the King and Queen: The Person who procur'd me Audience from his Majesty was one _la Roche_, a _Frenchman_ by Birth, who was the King's chief _Valet de Chambre_, Secretary of his Dispatches, and likewise Introducer of Amba.s.sadors.

'Twas in a private Audience that I had the Honour of waiting on his Majesty: This is different from a public Audience, in that the latter, which is generally for common People, is granted with the Doors open, and in Presence of the Grandees, who are standing on both Sides of the Hall, and cover'd: The King is then seated in a Chair of State, plac'd under a Canopy: From the Entrance of the Audience Room to the King's Chair Three Genuflections are made; and when the Persons, who are honour'd with the Audience, are advanc'd near his Majesty's Person, they deliver what they have to say upon their Knees: _Philip_ V. never makes any other Answer, than _I will see, I will consider it_. After such Audience is ended, the Person who officiates as Master of the Ceremonies gives Notice with an audible Voice, when there is to be a private Audience. The Grandees then retire, and the Doors are shut, and I had my Audience in the manner following: I found the King alone in his Chamber, made my Three Obeisances to him, and when I came near to him fell on my Knees: I then said to him, that having heard his Majesty's Piety and his Zeal for the Catholic Religion highly extoll'd in all Places where-ever I had been; I thought I could not do better than to come and prostrate myself at his Feet, and to offer him my most humble Service; that I had incurr'd the Displeasure of my Sovereign, and lost all Expectation of ever being able to serve with Satisfaction in my own Country, because I had embrac'd the _Romish_ Religion, whereof I shew'd his Majesty a Testimonial, sign'd by the Cardinal _de Noailles_: I also shew'd him a Letter from the King of _Prussia_, with the Grant of the first Pension annex'd to the Office of Gentleman of the Bedchamber, which I had still no doubt enjoy'd, had I not alter'd my Religion: The King took the King of _Prussia_'s Letter, and the Testimonial of the Cardinal _de Noailles_, look'd upon both of them, and return'd them to me, saying, _I will consider your Request, and will soon dispatch you_: I then presented a Memorial to him, which he put in his Pocket, after which I arose, and went backwards out of the Chamber, repeating my Three Obeisances.

From the King's Audience I went to that of the Queen, to which I was introduc'd by her chief _Major-Domo_: This Princess was dress'd in the _Amazons_ Habit, because she was going a Hunting with the King; her first Lady of Honour and some of the Ladies of the Bedchamber were present: I also saw in the Door-way between the Chamber of Audience and the Queen's own Chamber the Prince of _Asturias_, who dy'd King of _Spain_ in 1724, the _Infantes_ his Brothers, and the _Infanta Maria-Anna Victoria_. I deliver'd myself to the Queen in very near the same Words as I had just before to the King, and she return'd me a gracious Answer, that _She should be always glad to serve me as far as lay in her Power_: I withdrew, hugely delighted with so obliging an Answer.

This, _Madame_, was my first setting out at the Court of _Spain_: It was natural, in the first Place, to look after the Main-Chance; for, as I have had the Honour to acquaint you, I had but little Cash; and what was worse Luck than all, no Effects, from which I could hope to raise any, so that if I had thrown myself ever so little into Company, I should have run the Risque of being soon a Beggar: The obliging manner in which the King and Queen had been pleas'd to receive me, was a reviving Cordial to my drooping Spirits: I began to entertain fresh Hopes, and thinking myself already in some Share of Favour, I went abroad among my Acquaintance, I found old Friends, and made new ones, and I had good Success at Play, which I thought a happy Omen, and enabled me to frequent the Court with that Ease and Freedom, which Persons seldom discover whose Finances are out of Order.

I am now to give you a short Account of the Court, and of those who made the greatest Figure at it; I need not treat of the King, all Mankind knows, and the late Wars sufficiently prov'd, that _Lewis_, Dauphin of _France_, Son to _Lewis_ XIV. was his Father: He marry'd to his first Wife _Maria-Louisa Galeriela_ of _Savoy_, who dy'd at _Madrid_ the 14th of _February_, 1714, and whose Memory is still dear to the _Spaniards_; they greatly miss the _Savoyard_, as they call this Princess; The King of _Spain_ had several Children by her; the Eldest was _Don Lewis_, Prince of _Asturias_, afterwards King of _Spain_, by the Resignation of the King his Father in 1724, but this young Prince dy'd the same Year: The Name of the second was _Don Philip_, who was born at _Madrid_ in 1712, and dy'd in 1721; and the third _Don Ferdinand_, now Prince of _Asturias_.

After the Death of that Princess the King marry'd _Elizabeth Farnese_, Niece and Daughter-in-Law to the Duke of _Parma_: By this Princess the King has also had several Princes and Princesses: The Eldest Prince is _Don Carlos_, and was destin'd by the Quadruple Alliance to the Succession of _Tuscany_ and the Duchies of _Parma_ and _Placentia_: The second is _Don Philip_, who was born the 15th of _March_, 1720.

The Queen is tall and handsome, well-shap'd, but slender, and much pitted with the Small-Pox. She has a vast and enterprizing Genius, which no Difficulties can terrify. She made it very plain as soon as she set her Foot on _Spanish_ Ground, that she would not suffer herself to be led by the Nose: For before she had even seen the Face of the King, she banish'd the Princess of _Ursins_, both from the Court and Kingdom, because of the Ascendant she knew that Princess had over the King. She thought also of removing the _French_ from about him, and endeavour'd to put his Majesty out of Conceit with his own Countrymen. The _Spaniards_ were at first well enough pleas'd with all these Alterations, and hop'd that at length one of their own Nation would be singled out for Prime Minister; but they had the Mortification to see themselves govern'd by a Foreigner. The Abbot (afterwards Cardinal) _Alberoni_, by Birth a _Parmesan_, was advanc'd to the chief Dignities both in Church and State, and govern'd _Spain_ with such seeming Success, as made the Subjects entertain great Hopes of him.

He gave the Queen a Glimpse of mighty Fortune that was to befal her Son: But a more refin'd Set of Politics knock'd all those vain Projects on the Head; and the Queen was so prejudic'd against him, that she was the first who persuaded the King to remove the Cardinal; which happen'd in the Manner that I have already had the Honour to acquaint you. The Credit of the Queen herself, however, suffer'd some Shock by this Alteration; for the King was for a while undetermin'd what Measures to take, but at length he replac'd all his Confidence in the Queen, and 'tis she that still governs, tho', indeed, she is supported by Ministers who have great Talents for Government.

The Person who had the Charge of Foreign Affairs when I arriv'd at _Madrid_, was the Marquis _Grimaldo_, who had the Reputation of a Man of the strictest Honour and Probity. I had the Favour to see him more than once, and he always receiv'd me with very great Civility. I have been told, that he thorowly knows the King's good Pleasure with regard to such private Men as make their Court to him; and that when he tells a Person the King has a Respect for him, he need not despair of carrying any Point.

Nevertheless, I question whether such a Compliment could be safely depended on; for, I observ'd, he paid it to a great many People: And, as for my own Part, _M. Grimaldo_ said to me, that the King was so gracious as to esteem me, before I had even the Honour of paying my Duty to his Majesty.

_M. de Campo Florido_ had the Management of the Finances. He was a very polite disinterested Minister; and 'tis certain that he made none of those Purchases which are always the Consequence of a splendid Fortune. But notwithstanding his being so disinterested, this Minister had the same Fate as all that have the Management of the Finances, not to be belov'd: And tho' when he first came to the Direction of the Finances, he found them in a very bad State, no Allowance was made him upon that Score, but an Account was demanded from him of the Wealth which others had squander'd.

_M. de Castelar_ was Secretary at War, and had been just preferr'd to that Employment as I arriv'd at _Madrid_. He is the civillest Minister I ever knew: And tho' he had such a Weight of Affairs upon him, he had an easy Air, which was a Pleasure to all that had any Business with him. He had another Quality, not very common to Gentlemen in the Ministry, which was to keep no body in Suspence; for People very soon knew what they had to trust to: And whether 'twas a Grant or a Refusal, they were equally satisfy'd with the Minister, who gave with Pleasure, and never refus'd a Request but when 'twas not in his Power to grant it.

These, _Madame_, were the Ministers then employ'd in the several Offices.

At that time there was no Prime Minister in _Spain_; for, after Cardinal _Alberoni_'s Disgrace, the King manag'd Affairs himself, or rather the Queen govern'd as the real Sovereign. But as great as her Sway was, she had much ado to get the better of the King's Confessor, who had a great Share in all Affairs. This was the famous Father _Daubanton_, a Jesuit, who had an Ascendant over the King to such a Degree, that nothing of Moment was transacted without his Opinion. He was therefore, in Reality, the Prime Minister of _Spain_; at least he only wanted the t.i.tle, for he perform'd the Functions of such a one, but without the Wit, the Finesse, and the Policy of the disgrac'd Minister; for he was severe, merciless, and so hard-hearted, that when he saw Officers reduc'd to the last Extremity for want of their Pay, it gave him no Disturbance. To him I apply'd, as every body else did, to beg the Honour of his Protection; and when I came near him, I found him a haughty proud Man, and one that was extremely rigid. 'Tis true, that when he had to do with Persons from whom he expected any Services, all this Stateliness was laid aside; he was then quite another Man: And was so perfect a Matter of the Art of dissembling, that Civility, Good-nature, and Humility seem'd painted so strongly in his Features, as would induce one to think nothing could be more sincere, and that this external Appearance was the pure Expression of his secret Thoughts. The _Roman_ Purple was, they say, the Centre of all his Views; and, being wholly ambitious of this Dignity, he thought every Measure equally right that had a Tendency to a red Hat. Cardinal _Alberoni_ wheedled him with the Hopes of it one while, just to get some Services of him that he then stood in need of. The Regent of _France_ also gave him a Prospect of it, as a Reward that he might infallibly depend on, if he could prevail on his Catholic Majesty to sign the Treaty of the Quadruple Alliance. This Jesuit set heartily about it, and succeeded; but the Hat, so much aspir'd after, was given to another; and all the Thanks that the Reverend Father had for his Pains, was an Abbey for one pf his Nephews.

Something offer'd before I left _Spain_, which will give me occasion to speak to you of this Cardinal again.

Cardinal _Borgia_ was also in very high Favour, but a wrong Person to apply to for Services; which indeed was owing to his Indolence more than any other Reason; for, as to a friendly Temper, I do not think there ever was a Man who possess'd that Virtue in a more eminent Degree. He was withal very devout, but was reckon'd so unlearned, that I have been a.s.sur'd he did not know a word of _Latin_; and upon this Head I heard the following Story, which I do not retail to you for Gospel. I was told, that when the Duke of _St. Aignan_, the Amba.s.sador of _France_, was preparing to make this Cardinal a Visit, he was appris'd that his Eminency did not understand _French_. The Amba.s.sador thought it would do every whit as well if he convers'd with him in _Latin_, and therefore he greeted him in that Language; but he found, to his great Surprize, that the Prelate made Answer to him in _Spanish_, that he did not understand the _French_ Tongue; and somebody, who was present at the Audience, telling the Cardinal, that the Amba.s.sador spoke to him not in _French_ but in _Latin_, the Cardinal said, _Aye, but I do not understand Latin-French_: So that there was a Necessity of carrying on the Conversation by an Interpreter.

Tho' the Characters of the Ministers and Favourites were so different, there was a Necessity of my conforming to them all, in Hopes that the Steps I had taken would not be in vain. I took great Care therefore to see them all, to desire them to speak in my Favour. Whether they did so, I know not; nor whether the little Ray of Fortune which began to shine upon me, but soon vanish'd, was the Effect of their Recommendations, or to an Impression I had made upon the King's Heart, by the Narrative I had given him of the State of my Affairs, the Disorder of which had been owing in the first Place to my changing my Religion, which had forc'd me to quit the Service of my Sovereign. Be this as it will, I received a very favourable Answer to the Memorial which I had the Honour of presenting to the King: He granted me a Lieutenant-Colonel's Commission in the future Regiment of _Sicily_, together with the _Soldo vivo_, which amounted to about Sixteen Pistoles a Month. What they call the _Soldo vivo_ in _Spain_ is, when the same Pay is advanc'd as if the Corps was actually on an Establishment or Footing. I thought this very handsome Pay, and that my Affairs were already in a promising way. I found that with such a Sum an Officer might maintain himself very well in his Quarters. I actually form'd Schemes for a Settlement; and, having paid dear for my Folly, I began to talk of House-keeping. I computed, that with what would now be my Income from _Spain_, and what was to revert to me from my own Family, I should be able to repair my tatter'd Equipage, and to appear in a decent Manner, till such time as Fortune, which now began to be something kinder than usual, had put me in a Condition to make the Figure I aspir'd to.

As soon as the King had admitted me into his Service, I did not fail to wait on him with my most humble Acknowledgments: I had also the Honour of thanking the Queen, to whom I made my Compliment in _High-Dutch_, and that Princess return'd me her Answer in the same Language. Soon after this I set out for _Arragon_, where the Regiment in which I was to serve was then in Quarters. But as I came into _Spain_ with very little Money, I was soon oblig'd to return to _Madrid_, to desire some small Gratuity, till I receiv'd my Pay. Some of my Friends advis'd me to ask boldly for a handsome round Sum, or for a Pension upon Benefices; because if I depended on my Pay for Subsistance, I should be very much out in my Reckoning; that in _Spain_, more than elsewhere, they were backward in their Pay, and always one Year in Arrear, and sometimes two or three, according as they dun the Minister, or dawb the Treasurer's Fist. This News put me a little out of Temper, and from that time I began to perceive that Fortune would jilt me as much in _Spain_ as she had done elsewhere: Nevertheless, my Courage did not quite fail me, I apply'd to the Secretary at War, who referred me to Father _Daubanton_, and the latter told me, with all the Solemnity that could be, that 'twas none of his Business. You see, _Madame_, that this was a fine Setting out: However, I was not dishearten'd: And being so much us'd as I was to Rebuffs, I had as lieve be deny'd twice as once. I rapp'd at various Doors, but they were all either shut against me, or, if open'd, 'twas to no Purpose. I resolv'd to address myself immediately to the King, and had the Honour of presenting a Pet.i.tion to him, in which I gave him an Account of my present Situation: 1st, By the Disaster of the Bank Bills; and, 2dly, by the strange Procedure of the King's Lieutenant at _Bayonne_. The King, when he took my Pet.i.tion, answer'd, _I will consider it._ It must be observ'd, that the King was then at _Aranjuez_, for which Reason there was no Minister with him but _M. de Grimaldo_. This was the Minister to whom the other Secretaries of War and the Finances, and the President of the Council of _Castile_, were oblig'd to address their Dispatches, which was some Hindrance to Business; but, in short, such is the Practice of the _Spanish_ Court. For the Councils only attend the King at _Buen Retiro_, and this because 'tis in _Madrid_ itself; for as soon as the King goes from his Capital City, all Affairs pa.s.s thro' the Hands of a single Minister.

I waited therefore upon _M. de Grimaldo_, to know the Result of my Pet.i.tion. This Minister, according to his laudable Custom, told me, that the King had a very great Esteem for me: This thread-bare Answer was very little Comfort to me; and even tho' it were true that his Majesty honour'd me with his Esteem, I saw plainly that mine was a Situation in which the Esteem of Princes is mere Whip-Cream, if it be not accompany'd with something solid. I earnestly press'd _M. de Grimaldo_ that he would be so kind as to procure me something else besides Esteem. At last, after several Goings backward and forward, the Minister said to me one Day, with a Smile, that my Affairs went on swimmingly: I immediately thought my Business done, and wanted nothing but to know the Value of the Gratuity or Pension that was granted to me: But there was nothing in it; the good Turn that my Affairs had taken, was only to be referr'd back again to Father _Daubanton_. I waited, therefore, on the Reverend Father, and, with all possible Respect, ask'd him, what was the Effect of a Pet.i.tion that had been referr'd to him? And to this humble Request I added another, still more humble, which was to obtain the Honour of his Protection: But my Compliment and my Respects were not very welcome, and he answer'd me, very short: _Do you imagine, Sir, that I have nothing else to do, but to think of your Pet.i.tion: I have not yet seen it, Sir, nor do I know whether it has ever been sent to me._ I reply'd, but still with the profoundest Respect, that _M. de Grimaldo_ had told me that----_Alas!_ said he, interrupting me, _M. de Grimaldo! M. de Grimaldo!_ And the Words were no sooner out of his Mouth, but he whipp'd into his Closet, and slapp'd the Door in my Face. I saw plainly that the Wind did not sit right for his Reverence, and therefore lay by till next Day: Then I made up to him again much about the Time that I knew he us'd to go to the King, and planted myself in a Nook of his Entry, in the humble Posture of a Supplicant: The Jesuit, his Companion, seeing me there, desir'd me to walk into the Antichamber; but I could not be prevail'd on to accept of an Honour which I said did not belong to me; tho' the Truth was, that I chose to stay in the Entry, as the surest Place of speaking with the Confessor; for I had observ'd, that the Reverend Father often put the Bite upon People that waited for him in the Antichamber, by stealing out at a private Door that open'd into the Entry where I then was. I stay'd there a full Hour, when, as I had before imagin'd, I saw my Gentleman slipping out at the private Door: I accosted him in the Pa.s.sage, and humbly put him in Mind, that I had the Honour of speaking to him the Day before: I found him in a little better Humour than he was then, for he promis'd me that he would speak to the King, and bid me attend him for the Answer next Day. You will imagine that I did not fail to be there: He told me then, that he had not an Opportunity as yet of speaking to the King about my Affair, but that he would infallibly mention it to him in a few Days: Mean time these Days amounted insensibly to Weeks, and the Weeks to Months, which had like to have put me out of all manner of Patience. I could not be reproach'd with Want of Solicitation, for certainly there was not a Morning but I took my Walk in the Confessor's Antichamber, where he saw me sure enough, and would sometimes honour me with a Nod, and at other times with a Frown: And, in fine, after having so often danc'd Attendance, all I could obtain was a formal Denial.

I own to you, _Madame_, I was a little stunn'd by this Shock: For I had neither Money nor Credit, and knew not who I could ask to lend me a Sum, till I receiv'd a Quarter's Wages: Besides, how could I depend upon such Pay as was put off from one Year to another? In this sad Situation I was so fortunate as to make an Acquaintance with Mr. _Stanhope_, by the means of one _Holtzendorff_, that Minister's Secretary, who was a Native of _Berlin_, and has a Brother a _Valet de Chambre_ to the King of _Prussia_. He was glad to shew me his Acknowledgment of some Services my Relations had done him, by bringing me acquainted with his Master. Mr.

_Stanhope_ was wonderfully kind to me, and even interceded in my Favour with the Confessor, and with _M. Scotti_, the Minister of _Parma_, who could do any thing with the Queen; but Mr. _Stanhope_ had no better Success than I had: However, he did me all the Services in his Power, press'd me to accept of his Table, offer'd me also his Equipage, and advanc'd me some Money: In a Word, he treated me as the best Friend I had could have done; and I may say, that I have substantial Obligations to that Gentleman, because, if it had not been for him, _all my Days_ in Spain _would have been Sorrows, and my Travel Grief_[28].

While I lost so much Time in solliciting Father _Daubanton_, I did not omit to take Notice of what was remarkable, not only at _Madrid_ but the Royal Palaces, to which the Court remov'd from time to time. _Madrid_ is, properly speaking, the Capital City of all _Spain_, and the common Residence of its Kings, who have a large Palace there, the chief Front of which was built by the Emperor _Charles_ V. The Inside has been alter'd for the better, and much embellish'd by _Philip_ V. The Castle is at the End of a large Court which forms a long Square: The Two Sides of this Court are lin'd with low Buildings, Part whereof serves as a Guard-house for the _Spanish_ and _Walloon_ Guards, who range themselves in Two Rows in this Court, when the King or any of the Royal Family pa.s.ses thro' it.

At the Entrance of this Court there are Three grand Portico's. The Front of the Palace on the Court-side consists of a main Pile of Building, in the Centre between Two very narrow Pavilions; and at the Entrance of each is a great Gate: The middlemost, which is the princ.i.p.al, is very darksome, and leads into a very s.p.a.cious Area, arch'd over, where several Coaches may turn at one and the same time: This separates Two Square Courts of the same Size and Structure, encompa.s.s'd with a Range of Free-Stone Pillars, that form a Piazza which runs all round it. In the Court, which is on the Right Hand, is the Stair-Case, which leads up to the Apartments of the King and Queen; and in the other are the Offices of the Ministers.

The King's Apartment consists in the first Place of a Guard-Room, which is neither s.p.a.cious nor lightsome: On the Left Side of this Room is a very long Row of Chambers, very narrow and low, without a Ceiling, or any other Ornaments, but very rich Tapistry: At the End of this Row there are Three Apartments, built by Order of the Princess of _Ursins_: The first of these is a large Saloon, very high and well proportion'd, inlaid and wainscotted, and in the Compartments are to be seen the Pictures of several Kings, Queens and Princes of _Spain_, painted by the ablest Masters: The second Piece is an Octogon, contriv'd in that Form for the Sake of Four little Offices in the Angles of the Square: From this Apartment is a Pa.s.sage to the King's Chamber, which is very large, and intirely furnish'd with crimson Damask, adorn'd with Gold Lace and Fringe, tho' the Tapistry can scarce be seen, 'tis so much hid by excellent Pictures and n.o.ble Pier-Gla.s.ses.

The Queen's Apartment is not so large, nor near so fine as the King's: Her Majesty has a Guard-Room separate from the King's: Their Majesties may walk on the same Floor to the Chapel, which is not very large, but richly adorn'd: The Gallery is no higher than the Pavement of the Chapel, which is of very fine Marble: The Windows of the Chapel are all of Gla.s.s: None but the _Infantes_ fit in the Gallery, and the Grandees of _Spain_ are seated upon Forms, that are plac'd on each Side from the Gallery to the Altar: I am apt to think, that the Cardinals are allow'd a Great Chair and a Reading Desk in the Chapel, even tho' his Majesty be present: At least, I saw, that the Cardinal _Borgia_ had that Privilege.

In this Palace the King us'd to pa.s.s the Winter till Mid-Lent, and then his Majesty went to the Palace of _Retiro_, which stands near the Gate of _Alcala_: 'Tis a vast large Building, but without Ornament or Architecture, and looks more like a Convent than a Royal House: The Inside too is perfectly answerable to the Outside: The Rooms are very small, the Tapistries and Paintings very rich, but the _Spaniards_ are so negligent, that they suffer the Rats to gnaw the fine Hangings, and take no Care to repair them: There are n.o.ble Pictures also in another Room of this same Palace, which represent the princ.i.p.al Actions of the Duke of _Feria_, several of which Pictures, more is the Pity, have been cut into Quarters to enlarge the Entry of the Room.