While I am thus making Digressions in speaking of the City of _Utrecht_, you will also permit me to tell you that this City gave birth to the famous _Anna-Maria Schuurman_, that learned Lady who spoke _Latin_, _Greek_, _Hebrew_, the _Syriac_, _Chaldee_, _Italian_, _Spanish_, and _French_ Languages as fluently as the _Low Dutch_, which was her Mother-Tongue. She also knew how to paint in Miniature, and to engrave both with the Graving Tool and the Diamond upon Copper and Gla.s.s. Queen _Christina_ of _Sweden_ did her the same Honor, as _Alexander_ formerly did to _Diogenes_, for she went to pay her a Visit, and was surpriz'd at the Beauty of her Performances. This most ingenious Artist of her s.e.x died in 1678, at 71 Years of Age.

_Balderic_ of _Cleves_ the fifteenth Bishop of _Utrecht_, caus'd this City to be encompa.s.s'd with Walls; and _Charles_ V. built its Castle, which has at present nine Bastions, two Half-moons, and a Hornwork. They say that the great Church dedicated to St. _Martin_, was built in the Year 630 by King _Dagobert_; and after it was destroy'd, together with all the other Buildings in the City by the _Normans_, _Adelbolde_ the 19th Bishop caus'd it to be rebuilt and consecrated in 1024, in presence of the Emperor _Henry_ II. and twelve Bishops. It was ruin'd a second time, but was magnificently rebuilt. There's a very fine Tower at the Entrance 388 Foot high, from whence fifteen or sixteen Towns may be seen distinctly.

There's a better Air at _Utrecht_ than in the other Towns of _Holland_, the Ground it stands on being much higher, and by consequence not so marshy. This Town, which is situate upon the old Channel of the _Rhine_, is incompa.s.s'd with a fine fruitful Plain, and has charming Walks in the Neighbourhood, which are not inferior to those at the _Hague_.

The _French_ were at one time Masters of this Place, but on the 13th of _November_ 1673, it reverted to its lawful Sovereigns. When I arriv'd here I heard that the Peace was just sign'd by the Plenipotentiaries of _France_ and _Spain_ on the one part, and by the Ministers of _England_, _Portugal_, _Prussia_, _Savoy_ and _Holland_, on the other part. The princ.i.p.al Conditions were, That _Philip_ V. should remain in possession of the Crown of _Spain_, on condition nevertheless that he should renounce the Succession to the Crown of _France_, for himself and his Descendants: That _England_ should have _Gibraltar_ in _Spain_, and _Port-Mahon_ in the _Mediterranean_: That _Dunkirk_ should be demolish'd: _France_, by the way, was very loth to consent to the ruin of a Place which had already cost her several Millions, and requir'd a considerable Expence moreover to demolish. The Elector of _Brandenburg_ was recogniz'd King of _Prussia_, both by _France_ and _Spain_, and had even the t.i.tle of _Majesty_ given him, which _France_ never us'd to allow to the Kings of _Denmark_ and _Poland_. To the King of _Prussia_ was also yielded what he before possess'd in _Spanish Guelderland_, as an Equivalent for the Princ.i.p.ality of _Orange_, which that Monarch yielded to _France_. The Duke of _Savoy_ was own'd King of _Sicily_, and he obtain'd some Places in the _Milanese_.

The King of _Portugal_ remain'd peaceable Possessor of the Conquests which he had made during the War. The _Dutch_ got least of all by the Peace, and perhaps they repented that they did not accept of the Terms offer'd them at _Gertruydenberg_.

As soon as I arriv'd at _Utrecht_, I did not fail to make a Visit to the Amba.s.sadors of _Prussia_, who were the Count _de Denhoff_, the Count _de Metternich_, and the Marshal _de Biberstein_. They receiv'd me with all the Civility possible, and presented me to all the Foreign Ministers. I found at this City the Countess Dowager of _Wartemberg_, who was lately come hither. The Count her Husband, who died at _Francfort_, desir'd upon his Death-bed that his Corpse might be carried to _Berlin_, which was perform'd with a good deal of Pomp. They say, that the late King, who was very fond of him, as I have already had the Honor to mention to you, wou'd needs see his Funeral Convoy; and as it pa.s.s'd before the Windows of his Castle he could not refrain shedding Tears. Perhaps he then repented that he had disgrac'd that Minister on such slight Pretences; and perhaps too, the melancholy Spectacle put him in mind of that unavoidable Coast, on which both the Majesty of Kings, and the Magnificence of Courtiers, will at last be run ash.o.r.e.

The Countess of _Wartemberg_ was more undaunted. She was far from indulging any mortifying Reflection; but on the contrary, was glad to find her self in possession of a very great Estate; and gladder still to think that she was uncontroulable. She left _Francfort_ where she had resided ever since her Husband's Disgrace; and thinking that too melancholy a Place to spend her Life in, she made choice of the City of _Utrecht_, as the most gay of any that she knew. She soon had an Intrigue or two upon her hands; and when I arriv'd, I heard that the Chevalier _de B----_ was her Bosom Friend. This Gentleman was newly set out for _Versailles_, with a Commission to carry the News of the Peace. I was not much concerned whether I made any Visit to the Countess; for I observ'd that all of our Court who were then at _Utrecht_, were shy of her to such a degree, that I did not care to be the only one that shew'd any Regard for her. But tho' I had resolv'd not to visit her, I happen'd to fall in her Way. This Lady had brought a _French_ Gentlewoman with her, whom I knew very well at _Berlin_; and as she had Wit at will, I had a mind to renew my Acquaintance with her, the rather because I had a Curiosity to know a little of the Countess's History. The first time I paid her a Visit she made me an Offer to carry me to see the Countess of _Wartemberg_; which I refus'd in such a manner that she did not insist upon my going.

But she thought fit to tell the Countess that I was lately come to _Utrecht_; that I had paid her a Visit; and that she thought I perfectly resembled the Chevalier _de B----_. There needed no other Motive to set the Countess agog to see me; and she desir'd her Gentlewoman to bring me to her. But notwithstanding all her Persuasion, I peremptorily refus'd it.

At last, as I was making a Visit one day to the Gentlewoman, who should bounce into the Room where I was, but the Countess _de Wartemberg_. She said, that tho' I scorn'd her so much as not to make her a Visit, she had resolv'd to come and see me. I was going to reply, but the Countess, without giving me time to speak, told me, that she thought me alter'd much for the better; that no two drops of Water were more like than I, and the Chevalier _de B----_; and that in short we perfectly resembled each other even in the Tone of our Voice: But by Madam _de Wartemberg_'s leave, there never were two People more unlike. The Knight Commander was a handsome well-set Man, which you know, Madame, is a Character I never had the Vanity to affect; and I thought every part of the Countess's Compliment so extraordinary, that in truth, a Scholar just come from the College could not have been more dash'd than I was. I made an Answer, 'tis true, but to tell you frankly, I knew not what I said. I gave her my Hand, and led her to her own Apartment, where she still descanted upon the mighty Resemblance betwixt the Chevalier and me. In fine, I think I may venture to say, without giving my self an Air as if I was the Darling of the Fair s.e.x, and without pa.s.sing in your Opinion for a c.o.xcomb, that 'twas my own fault I was not taken, in Body and Soul, for the Chevalier; but I was so fortunate as to be disintangled by a Valet de Chambre, who came to acquaint her of the Arrival of M. _Menager_ the third Plenipotentiary of _France_ at the Congress, to whom I had Obligations for bringing me out of this Sc.r.a.pe. This kind of Visit made me take proper Measures to prevent any more such, for the little time I had to stay in this City.

From _Utrecht_ I went to _Wesel_, and from thence thro' _Westphalia_ to the Duchy of MAGDEBOURG. The City of this Name was formerly an Archbishopric, erected by the Emperor _Otho_ the Great in favor of the _Vandals_ newly converted, but by the Peace of _Westphalia_ the whole Country was seculariz'd with the t.i.tle of a Duchy, in favor of the _Brandenburg_ Family, in Exchange for that part of _Pomerania_ which was yielded to the _Swedes_. There are few Towns in _Germany_ that have suffer'd so many Revolutions as _Magdebourg_. This City was put under the Ban of the Empire in 1553, by _Charles_ V. for refusing Submission to his Orders, for it was then in open Rebellion, so that the Elector _Maurice_ of _Saxony_ was sent to reduce it. The Siege lasted a whole Year, the Elector not being very much in haste to push on the Conquest. As this War was undertaken purely for the Destruction of the Protestant Religion, which this City had embraced; the Elector, who was himself a Protestant, thought by spinning out the Siege to regain the good Opinion of those of his Religion, who were uneasy to see him support the Interests of the Emperor and the Catholics. The Elector however made them easy, by promising the Protestants of _Magdebourg_, that he would join them in the War against the Emperor, immediately after the Surrender of the Place.

Matters were transacted on both sides with very great sincerity. The Place surrender'd, and the Elector entered it not as a victorious Prince, but rather as an Ally who brought Relief to it. He made use of the Garison to reinforce his Army, and then declar'd War against the Emperor, on pretence that the Religion and Liberty of _Germany_ were in danger.

A Change of this nature was so extraordinary, that the Emperor could not expect it: For this Prince had himself promoted the Elector of _Saxony_ to the Dignity he possess'd, after having depriv'd the unfortunate _Frederic_ of his Dominions; and for so considerable a Present he might very well hope the Elector would have made him grateful Returns. The Emperor therefore was so far from thinking himself oblig'd to be on his Guard for fear of Surprise, that he imagin'd himself in a State of perfect Security, when the Elector of _Saxony_ had like to have surpriz'd him at _Inspruck_ the Capital of _Tirol_. The Emperor knew nothing of the Plot, till he was on the point of being made Prisoner; and 'twas with much ado that he escap'd, for he was at that time ill of the Gout, and oblig'd to leave both his Equipage and Domestics behind him. He would upon this occasion have given the Prince _John-Frederic_ his Liberty, but this Prince was loth to abandon him in this Misfortune, and accompany'd him into _Carinthia_, twenty-eight Leagues from _Inspruck_, where the Emperor made his Retreat.

The City of _Magdebourg_ was a very great Sufferer in the War, which is commonly call'd, _The War of thirty Years_, because during that Term _Germany_ was ravag'd on all sides. _Tilly_ the Emperor's General besieg'd it in 1631, when 'twas taken by Storm, and all the Inhabitants put to the Sword. A Fire also had a part in its Destruction, and committed such Ravage that _Magdebourg_, which was one of the finest Cities in _Germany_, was intirely reduc'd to Ashes. The Burghers indeed had no body but themselves to blame for their Misfortune, for General _Tilly_ would not have treated them so severely if they had not refus'd an advantageous Capitulation, of which he made them an Offer some days before the Storm.

But since this Town has been in the hands of the _Brandenburg_ Family, the Electors have taken care to fortify it so well, that it would now be a hard matter to take it. The late King caus'd a Citadel to be built here, which is separated from the City by the _Elbe_. The present King has added considerable Works to it, which are remarkably substantial and magnificent. His Majesty has also caus'd a very fine a.r.s.enal to be built in the Great Square, which tho' not very large, is stor'd with a considerable number of Cannon and other Arms. On the Right hand of this Square is the Great Church, formerly the Cathedral, a _Gothic_ Building, where meets the Chapter which is still subsisting, tho' Protestant; and according to ancient Custom, none are admitted into it but Men of Quality.

The Situation of _Magdebourg_ is very fine, having an Outlet on all sides to s.p.a.cious Plains, that are very fruitful in Corn. The _Elbe_, which, as I have said, separates the Citadel from the Town, renders its Commerce also very easy with _Hamburg_, _Saxony_ and _Bohemia_, for which reason several Merchants are settled here who have n.o.ble Houses. And since the King has transferr'd the Regency of the Country hither from _Hall_, the Town grows every day finer, so that it may now be reckon'd one of the most beautiful Towns in the two Circles of _Saxony_.

From _Magdebourg_ in my Way to _Berlin_ I pa.s.s'd thro' BRANDENBURG, which is a City on the River _Havel_, that was built by M. _Branden_, a Prince of _Franconia_. 'Twas heretofore a Bishopric, but now the whole Country is seculariz'd, and makes a part of the _Marquisate_ of _Brandenburg_. Here is a considerable Trade, and the King keeps a Garison in it, consisting of a Battalion of the tall Grenadiers. You have so often seen the Regiment of which this Battalion is a part, that 'tis needless to commend it to you farther than to observe, that 'tis perhaps the finest Regiment in _Europe_.

I did not stay at _Brandenburg_, because I would be the sooner at BERLIN.

On the day that I arrived there I was so tir'd with having walk'd all Day and Night, that I kept my Bed till the Evening, when I had the Honor to wait on the Queen, the King having been gone a few days before to _Potzdam_, Her Majesty kept her Chamber, and had not been out of it since her last Lying-in, when she was deliver'd of the Princess _Charlotta-Albertina_, who died the Year following on the 10th of _June_.

I was so coldly receiv'd by her Majesty, that I had no reason to hope for favor at Court, or at least with her Majesty. But the Margravines receiv'd me with all the Civility possible. The Margravine-Dowager especially a.s.sur'd me that she would continue that Protection with which she had always honor'd me.

As to the City of _Berlin_, it had not yet dry'd up its Tears for the Loss it had lately sustain'd, by the Death of _Frederic_. 'Tis true the King his Son gave great hopes, but the thorough Change he had made in his Court, caus'd the late King to be lamented. The new Monarch thought of nothing but keeping up a numerous Army, and that he might do this without laying a Burden upon his Subjects, he dismiss'd all his Court, and the intire Houshold of the King his Father, so that there was n.o.body at Court but the Ministers. Most of the Persons of Quality who lived heretofore at _Berlin_, were retir'd either to their Estates or their Governments, which made the City a most melancholy Place to stay in, and all these Alterations convinc'd me that there was nothing for me to expect in this Country. I therefore resolv'd to settle all my Domestic Affairs with the utmost speed, designing to return forthwith to _Paris_. Before I went thither, I made a Trip to _Zell_, in order to examine the Accompts of a Person I had deputed as my Attorney to receive the Deeds of my Mother's Estate. But to my sorrow, my Mother had by her Will devis'd the greatest part of her Estate to the Children she had by her former Husband, so that what I could lay claim to was far short of what I promis'd my self.

From _Zell_ I went to HAMBOURG[44], purely to see that City. I had travel'd thither once before, but was then so young that I was not in a Capacity to take notice of any thing in this City worthy of Remark.

_Hambourg_, which is one of the best Towns in _Germany_, is a part of Lower _Saxony_, being situate upon the _Elbe_ a few Leagues from the Mouth of that River, which is a great Conveniency to its Trade. Before it was erected into a Republic 'twas a part of _Holstein_, on the Territory of which it was built; and therefore it had frequent Quarrels with the Dukes of _Holstein_, and the Kings of _Denmark_, who are the Sovereigns of _Holstein_. The latter, as well as the _Swedes_, have attempted several times to make themselves Masters of _Hambourg_, but have been repuls'd as often as they came before it: For this City is not easy to be reduc'd, because it has n.o.ble Ramparts and very strong Out-works, and it also takes care to be well provided with Artillery, and a good Garrison. Moreover, 'tis always sure of the Protection of the Families of _Brandenburg_ and _Brunswic_, it being so advantagiously situated, that 'tis the Interest of both, that no Power whatsoever should take it.

_Hambourg_ is also very considerable on account of the Wealth of its Inhabitants, who are almost all Merchants, and much of the Temper of the _Dutch_ Merchants, very greedy of Gain and thrifty. Their greatest Delight is so have Gardens at the City-Gates, pretty much in the Taste of those of _Holland_. The Wives of the great Merchants are as much confin'd at _Hambourg_, as the Women of Quality are at _Venice_, but I observ'd they were only pent up from Foreigners. A Man may pa.s.s his time very well in this City, where there are several Persons of Quality to see, who make their Visitors perfectly welcome. The Walks in and about this City are charming, and especially that on the Ramparts is a n.o.ble one, there being a double Row of Trees which forms an agreeable Covert, and from whence there's a Prospect finely diversify'd by n.o.ble Houses, Gardens, Woods, Meadows, _&c._ in the midst of which one sees the Rivers _Elbe_ and _Alster_, which both together yield a charming View. The River of _Alster_ comes into the Town and forms a Basin very like a great Pond, which has a fine Kay on the sides of it planted with several Rows of Lime-Trees, between which there's a very fine Walk.

Near _Hambourg_ lies the Town of ALTENA[45]. The King of _Denmark_ gave it this Name to banter the Deputies of _Hambourg_ who made Remonstrances to him against his building this Town too near to theirs, and in their Discourse to the King about the Town said several times, _Sie ist al te na_, which in the Language of the Country signifies, _it is too near_. The King taking particular Notice of the Monosyllables _al te na_, said to the Deputies that he could not excuse himself from carrying on the Town which he was building, and that all he could do to oblige them was to order it to be call'd by the Name of _Altena_, which they themselves had given it.

And indeed, a more significant Name could not have been put upon this Town, for 'tis situate just at the Gates of _Hambourg_, and is a part of _Danish Holstein_. It was formerly a priviledg'd Place for Bankrupts, and for all that had committed any Crime in _Hambourg_. But the present King of _Denmark_, rather than this Town should continue any longer in the Enjoyment of a Privilege which fill'd it with Knaves and Vagabonds, delivers up Malefactors to the Magistrates of _Hambourg_ whenever they reclaim them.

_Altena_ is remarkable for the Multiplicity of Religions which are there publickly exercis'd. I believe, that excepting _Amsterdam_, there is not a Town in _Europe_ where there are so many Sects; but few of 'em are allow'd a Church. The Neighbourhood of this Town to _Hambourg_, and its Situation moreover upon the _Elbe_, does great Prejudice to that City. 'Tis now several years since _Altena_ was burnt by the _Swedes_, under the Command of the Count _de Steinbock_; when they scarce allow'd Time to the Inhabitants to make their Escape; so that they had the Grief to be Eye-Witnesses of the burning of their Houses and Goods, and several Old Men, and a number of Infants perish'd in the Flames. I found _Altena_ in that sorrowful State when I first went thither; but upon a Review of it since, I see that 'tis rebuilt in such a manner, that 'tis now a finer and more flourishing Town than ever. After four or five days Stay at _Hambourg_ I set out, and never did any body go off at a more proper Time; for in a few days after it, the Plague discover'd it self in the City; upon which it was shut up, and its Communication forbid with any other Place.

I return'd thro' _Zell_, where I made no manner of stay, to AIX-LA-CHAPELLE[46], an Imperial City, on the Confines of the Duchies of _Juliers_ and _Limbourg_. 'Tis encompa.s.s'd with Mountains, which form so pleasant a Vale, that _Charlemain_ chose rather to reside at _Aix-la-Chapelle_, than in either of the many beautiful Cities which he conquer'd. This Emperor caus'd a Collegiate Church to be built here, in which his Tomb is still to be seen; and the Memory of that Prince is to this day held in great Veneration. On the Festival of St. _Charles_, there's a solemn Procession here, in which the Effigies of that Monarch is carried with an Equipage which excites Laughter rather than Devotion. The Preacher's Pulpit in this same Collegiate Church is inrich'd with Plates of Gold; and they say that the Branch which hangs down before the High Altar is of the same Metal. 'Tis in this Church that many Emperors have been consecrated; and several of the Imperial Ornaments are still kept there. The Emperor is born Canon of the Church of _Aix_, and takes the Oath as such on the Day of his Coronation.

Certain Reliques are preserv'd at _Aix-la-Chapelle_, which are shew'd but once in seven years; and then they are expos'd to View from the top of a Tower in the City, during which the People gaze at them on their Knees, in the Squares and Streets leading to the said Tower. This Ceremony was perform'd when I was at _Aix_ in 1713, at which time there was a Concourse to it of an incredible number of Pilgrims from _Hungary_, _Tirol_, and all the Provinces of _Germany_. Persons of superior Rank are allow'd the Liberty of going up to the top of the Tower where those Reliques are expos'd, and may look near to them, but must by no means touch them. Of all that I saw, I only remember a Smock, which they affirm was the Virgin's: There were some spots on it, which they said were the Stains of the Milk with which she suckled the Savior of the World. This Shift seem'd to be quite seamless, and made of a sort of Stuff which I know not how to describe to you, for it was neither of Linnen nor Callico.

The City of _Aix_ is very famous for its hot Baths, and for the Waters that are taken there twice a year, _viz._ in _Spring_ and _Autumn_; at which two Seasons there's a great Resort hither of Foreigners. The Waters are hot, and of a very unpleasant Taste, and they smell like a rotten Egg; for which reason People are loth to take them when they first come; but after they are us'd to it, they go down very well. The Baths especially are wonderfully good against the Contraction of the Sinews and against Wounds. Nor is there a Place where the Waters are us'd with more Conveniency, there being plenty of every thing that one wou'd wish for, and especially good Company; for _Brabant_, _Liege_, _France_, _Holland_ and _Germany_, lie so near to it, that there's always a great many People here, and very good Diversion.

I set out from _Aix_ for PARIS, by the way of _Maestricht_ and _Louvain_; but as I travell'd Post thro' these Towns, I shall reserve the Description of them to you, till such time as I make a longer stay in them. On my Arrival at _Paris_ I was deeper in Love than ever. I was receiv'd by my dear Mistress with such Tokens of Love, as gave me all the reason in the world to think, that I was the happiest Man living: And in reality I was so, because at that time I knew of no other Happiness than to be in her good Graces; yet my natural Levity made me soon think otherwise. I saw the Marchioness _de P----_; and I will frankly own to you, that all the Veneration I had for _S----_ abated. I thought then there was nothing to compare with the new Object of my Pa.s.sion. _S----_ quickly perceiv'd my Inconstancy, and reproach'd me for it; but they were Reproaches unmix'd with Gall, and such as nothing but Love can inspire. The consequence was, that my Pa.s.sion for her reviv'd; and upon this occasion I was made sensible, that a Flame not well extinguish'd is always apt to burst out again; and that there needs no great Compulsion to renew the Pa.s.sion of Love. The Sentiments of the Man of Honor being join'd to those of the Lover, I ask'd my own Conscience what _S----_ had ever done to disgust me.

And in fine, I gave Judgment against my self, that I could not without Ingrat.i.tude forsake so amiable a Mistress. I took care, therefore, to absent my self by degrees from the Marchioness _de P----_; and found it no very hard matter to stifle a Pa.s.sion, which, to speak plainly, was but a sudden Flash.

While I staid at the Court of _France_, I saw the Ceremony of the double Marriage of the Duke of _Bourbon_ and the Prince of _Conti_, who married each other's Sister. The Duke married _Mary-Anne_ of _Bourbon-Conti_, Sister to the Prince of _Conti_, who married _Louisa-Elizabeth_ of _Bourbon-Conde_, the Duke's Sister.

These Marriages made no addition to the Pleasures of the Court, and every thing remained very quiet, till News came of the Advantages which the Marshal _de Villars_ had gain'd over the Allies. This Campaign was both glorious and advantageous to the Marshal; and every body talk'd of the immense Sums of Money which he had put into his Pocket. His Conduct was narrowly pry'd into, and his Enemies charg'd that to him as a Crime, for which, perhaps, they would have commended any other General. They said that he brought with him several Waggons laden with Bandoliers for Safeguards; and that he got so much Money by this means, that at his Return he laid out 1,800,000 Livres in a Purchase. Nay, they had the a.s.surance to speak of it to the King, who said to the Marshal one day at Dinner, _That he heard he had bought a fine Estate. 'Tis true, Sir_, reply'd the Marshal, _I have just purchas'd a very pretty Estate_; _and if I have the Honor to command your Army next year, I hope to buy a more considerable one and make your Enemies pay for it_. This Answer quite broke the Measures of those who had endeavour'd to do the Marshal ill Offices. He knew very well that he had Enemies, but it gave him little Concern; for he was in high Favor, and he deserv'd it. They say that when he set out to make the Campaign in 1713, he said to the King at taking leave of him, _I desire your Majesty to remember, that while I am going to fight your Enemies, I leave your Majesty in the midst of mine._ He acquitted himself very bravely; and at length, by the Reduction of _Landau_ and _Fribourg_, he procur'd that Peace, by which the Electors of _Cologne_ and _Bavaria_ were restor'd to their Dominions.

After I had been some Months at _Paris_ I receiv'd Letters from _Berlin_, with Advice, that the King had Thoughts of forming his Houshold; and that I could not do better than to go and offer him my Service. I was not long in demurring upon what Course to take. I had always been bred up in Sentiments which convinc'd me, that to serve one's Sovereign was preferable to any other Service; and besides, I always found my self naturally attach'd to the Family of our Kings. I therefore resolv'd to leave _Paris_ once more. You know my Humor so well, _Madame_, that you cannot think but it was with some Reluctance that I form'd a Resolution of this nature; and I will frankly own to you, that I was heartily grieved to leave a Place where I had my fill of Pleasures, which I knew I could not have a Taste of elsewhere: but at length I gave Attention only to my Duty; and tho' the Tears which I saw shed for my sake melted my Heart, yet they were not powerful enough to make me alter my Design.

From _Paris_ to _Wesel_, I went the same Road that I came; and from _Wesel_ I proceeded to HANOVER, where I fell sick. My Design was to be _incog._ but the ill State of my Health oblig'd me to have recourse to a Physician; nay, I thought one while, that all the Remedies in the World would do me no good; and that 'twas high Time for me to prepare in good earnest for my last long Journey. My Kinswoman Mademoiselle _de Pollnitz_ was soon inform'd of my Arrival; and as soon acquainted the Electoress of it, who was so gracious as to send to know how I did; and this she repeated twice every day as long as I was ill. This Princess always had a Kindness for me, which I shall for ever acknowledge. I was told, that during my Illness, _F----_ thinking to divert the Company at my Expence, said at the Elector's Table, _That my Distemper was not mortal; that I had caught it in +France+; and that there were Surgeons at +Hanover+ who had Skill enough to set me to rights._ The Electoress was very angry with him, and said, _Sir, your Banter is absurd; if he had the Distemper that you say, he would have staid in +France+ for the Cure, since he is not ignorant, that the People of this Country go thither for the same Purpose; and he has too much Sense not to follow their Example_.

As soon as I was able to get abroad, I did not fail to wait on the Electoress with my most humble Thanks. That Princess gave me a much better Reception than I durst presume to have expected. The Kindness which she show'd to me, induc'd Mademoiselle _de Pollnitz_ and Madame _de K----_ to think, that I might easily obtain Admission into her Service if I would but ask her; and accordingly those Ladies prevail'd on me to take that Step, tho' I very much question'd my Success; and I found by Experience that my Suspicion was but too well grounded. I made my Application to the Princess by Letter; in which, perhaps, I acted indiscreetly, because I thereby gave her Leisure to take the Opinion of other People. Accordingly she did so; and to my misfortune applied to Madame _de B----_ who could not endure me; because, as I heard afterwards, _Madame_ of _France_ had acquainted the Electoress, that I told her the Electoral Prince had a particular Respect for her Ladyship. This was enough to exasperate a Person against me, who made outward Profession of the most rigid Virtue; and when the Electoress consulted her about me, she was transported to think what an infallible Opportunity she had to be reveng'd. She artfully insinuated to the Electoress, that she ought not to admit me into her Service, and did not want Reasons to back her Insinuations; the Desire of Revenge being what always supplies specious Arguments in abundance to hurt an Enemy. The Electoress so well approv'd of those she made use of to exclude me from her Service, that she order'd M. _de P----_ to tell me, _That she was very much oblig'd to me for the Attachment which I manifested for her Person; but that she could not imagine, that after I had serv'd a King, I should like to wait upon so old a Princess as she was: That 'twould be more suitable for me to be in the Service of her Son; and that she should take a Pleasure to help me to it: But that as for her self she must stay till she was Queen of +England+ before she could admit me into her Service; because, if that should happen, she should then be in a better Capacity to make my Fortune_. You perceive, _Madame_, this was a Refusal that I could not well complain of, 'twas so season'd with everything to take off the Bitterness of it. For my part, I own to you that I felt none. As I had only taken this Step in pure Complaisance to Mademoiselle _de Pollnitz_, she was stung to the quick at this Denial; not so much for my sake (I knew very well what the matter was) but for her own; whose Vanity was very much mortify'd by it; for she thought her self in Favor, and saw 'twas a Favor without any Credit: And her Resentment proceeded so far, that she hinder'd me from taking Leave of the Electoress, who in a few days after set out for _Gohr_ with the Prince her Son. For my part I also set out from _Hanover_ for BERLIN.

When I came thither I found the King's Houshold Officers already nominated, yet this did not hinder me from asking his Majesty for Employment. The Person who spoke for me was M. _de Printz_ the Grand Marshal, who brought me News of a Refusal of a very different sort from what I found at _Hanover_. In the latter, I had no reason to complain of the Electoress, who with all the Politeness possible refus'd me a Favor, which when all is said and done, I should not have valued, if I had not ask'd for it. But now I had a very cruel Repulse, by being deny'd the only thing for which I had undertaken the Journey to _Berlin_. The Behaviour of the Court to me in this Instance concern'd me not a little. I had never done any thing to seclude me from an Establishment in my own Country. My Ancestors had serv'd in it, and bore such a distinguish'd Rank in it too, that I might very well think some Notice would have been taken of me.

Moreover, I had the Honour of being Gentleman of the Bed-chamber to the late King, but now had the Mortification of seeing Persons prefer'd before me who had never been seen at Court, and such too for most part as are of very obscure Birth. Finding therefore I had no hopes of succeeding at Court, I saw that I must go seek my Fortune elsewhere, and I thought of entring into the Service of the King of _Poland_. There was not a fitter Man upon earth to serve me with that Prince than his Prime Minister the Count _de Flemming_, who happen'd to be then at _Berlin_ upon his Master's Affairs. I got my Friends to speak to the Count, and attended him constantly. That Minister seem'd inclinable to serve me, and promis'd to speak for me to the King his Master.

He set out for WARSAW the latter end of _November_, and thither I follow'd him; upon which he introduc'd me to the King, and to all the Court-n.o.bility. I cou'd not have set out better than I did at the Court of _Poland_. I was patronis'd by the Man who mov'd in the highest Sphere there, next to the King himself; and for that Reason every body strove to shew me Respect. The Count _de Flemming_ seem'd to be pleas'd at the Regard that was paid to me; at least, I was so short-sighted as not to perceive that it was to him a matter of very great Indifference. I was excusable in not suspecting him of double dealing with me; for hitherto I had no other Reason but to applaud his Generosity, and that Good-will which he had express'd to do me Service. Endeavors were not wanting to undeceive me, and I soon after saw with my own Eyes, that the fair Promises he made to me were nothing more nor less, than what they call _Court-Holy-Water_.

Not long after my Arrival at _Warsaw_, the King of _Poland_ set out for _Germany_. I thought my self bound in Interest to wait for his Return, in order to treat about my Affairs; and I spent this time at _Warsaw_ in the most agreeable manner that could be. I was soon known by all the _Polish_ n.o.bility, who were as civil to me as could be imagin'd. Every thing I beheld made me fancy I was at _Paris_, there being every where the same Politeness, and a certain easy Deportment which the _French_ think none are Masters of but themselves. The _Polish_ Ladies are very amiable, witty, and have a good deal of Sprightliness. With these Qualities, one would naturally imagine they are not indifferent to Pleasures; and I observ'd that they have a delicate and very exquisite Taste for every thing that pa.s.ses under the Name of Diversions. They are pa.s.sionately fond of Music, and still more of Plays. And at _Warsaw_ they have as much of both as they desire; for the King, who is a Prince as gallant as he is magnificent, takes care that every thing be done at Court, in a manner worthy of a great Prince. He maintains a Set of _French_ Comedians there; and moreover, frequently gives b.a.l.l.s and Concerts. These Diversions are generally attended with n.o.ble Feasts that the King makes for the Ladies of his Court; at which times, that Prince is always admir'd for his good Mien, and for that Gracefulness which sets off all his Actions.

The _Polish_ Lords are not near so gay as the Ladies; or, at least, they don't come up to them for Elegance and Contrivance. Their Domestics and Equipage are generally slovenly; their Tables are indeed serv'd with Profusion, but without Delicacy, which I take to be intirely owing to the want of good Officers or skilful Cooks; for in other respects, _Poland_ is a Country, where there is as good Cheer as any in the World. Their Butcher's Meat is delicious, and they have plenty of good Fish. Wine is not the Produce of the Country, but the want of it is not perceiv'd at the Tables of the _Polish_ n.o.bility, where the Wine of _Hungary_, tho'

very dear, is drank as common as Water. I observed one thing at the Generality of their Tables, that does not tally with the Grandeur which they pretend to, _viz._ That the Master of the House and his intimate Friends drink the best Wine, while the other Guests that are invited, are oblig'd to put up with the common sort. Tis to be observ'd, that tho'

_Poland_ abounds with all Necessaries for Life, yet 'tis a Country very inconvenient for Travellers, especially those who are not in a Capacity to carry every thing along with them. I have not seen a Place where there is so little Accommodation at the Public-Houses, there being hardly a Chair in them to sit down upon. Therefore the Travellers of any Fashion take care to carry all Necessaries with them. The Duke of _York_, Bishop of _Osnabruck_, said a very pertinent thing upon this occasion, _viz._ _That he did not know a Country where Travellers were more at home than in +Poland+, because they were always making use of their own Furniture_.

I heard that the King was shortly to go for _Dresden_, and therefore I set out thither immediately with the Count _de Hoim_, a Minister of State to his _Polish_ Majesty. In my Way to _Dresden_ I saw no Place of Note but _Breslau_ and _Leipsic_. BRESLAU, the Capital of _Silesia_, is a pretty large and very beautiful City, which in the Winter-Season is inhabited by a great Number of n.o.bility. The Count _de Flemming_ stopping there a couple of days, I halted there too. I saw very good Company here, especially at the Houses of the Count _de Maltzam_, and the Princess of _Teschen_, who was formerly the Princess _Lubomirski_. This Lady made a grand Figure, gave People a hearty Reception, and treated with Magnificence. I could have wish'd to have staid at _Breslau_ a few days longer; but as the Count _de Flemming_, by whose Patronage I hop'd still to get some Establishment at Court, was going to the King in _Saxony_, I went with him to the Fair at _Leipsic_, where the King and Queen were already arriv'd. As the King had been absent a good while, the Princes of the Blood, and a great number of Persons of Quality, came hither to pay their Respects to him; and after the Fair was ended, his Majesty return'd to _Dresden_, where he had not been long arriv'd, but he married the Count _de Saxony_ (his natural Son by the Countess of _Koningsmarck_) to Mademoiselle _de Loven_, who was a young Gentlewoman of a good Family, and one of the richest in _Silesia_. The Ceremony of this Marriage was perform'd in presence of the whole Court; and for several days the King gave Feasts answerable to his good Fancy and Magnificence. His Majesty is very fond of this Count of _Saxony_, who is one of the most amiable Gentlemen that I have seen; and besides, he very much resembles the King of _Poland_, which, to be sure, makes that Monarch the more in love with him.

DRESDEN[47] was then the Centre of the Pleasures of _Germany_, and the Plays, _&c._ exhibited here, made me almost think I was at _Paris_. I will not trouble you with all the Particulars of the several splendid Entertainments that were made in the Carnival Time, there having been enough written on that Subject already by other Pens. I shall have the Honor, therefore, to say nothing more of it to you, than that every Spectator was more charm'd with the King's affable Behavior, than they were with the Beauty of the Representations, and the Splendor of the Feasts.

I should, no doubt, have had a better Relish for all these Pleasures, if I could have lik'd the Situation of my Affairs. I had all along conceiv'd Hopes of entring into the Service of _Poland_, and plac'd a very great Dependance on the Promises made by the Count _de Flemming_; but when I came to _Dresden_, I found the Face of Affairs quite chang'd. I put him in remembrance of his Promise; but he answer'd me in such a droll manner, as convinc'd me that I ought not to expect any great Matter from him.

However, that I might have nothing to reproach my self with, I still continu'd to give him Marks of a very great Attachment to his Person. Yet I met with several Rebuffs, which did not discourage me; and which I had the more Reason to bear with Patience, because I knew that he treated his most trusty Confidents in the same manner. At last, not caring, perhaps, to do any thing of himself, he sent me to M. _de Lowendahl_ the Grand Marshal, and the latter referr'd me to M. _de Fitzthum_ the King's Favorite. I was charm'd with this Gentleman's Politeness and good Manners; and I don't think there ever was a Favorite more obliging, and that took less upon him. Far from amusing me, he convinc'd me of the Impossibility there was of my obtaining any Place at Court, unless the King thro' his special Grace should be inclin'd to prefer me; which could not be done neither, without disobliging several of the _Polish_ n.o.blemen, who likewise sollicited Places at Court, and seem'd to have a sort of Right to them by virtue of their Birth. I did not yet quite despair of Success; and as this was a Favor that could only be granted by means of the Count _de Flemming_, I had recourse again to that Minister; but I was never the nearer. To be sure I took a wrong time to speak to him about my Business, when perhaps he had other Affairs of greater Consequence that might ingross his Thoughts. In a word, he rebuff'd me to such a degree, as was sufficient to make me quite renounce my Pretensions. I took leave of the King and Queen, and prepar'd to go for _Berlin_.

But before I set out, an Adventure happen'd, which, together with my Vexation that I had not succeeded in my Designs, made me hate to stay any longer at _Dresden_, as much as I was in love with the Place when first I came to it. At _Leipsic_ Fair I had drawn a Bill of 300 Crowns, payable to the Bearer. The Person for whom I drew the Bill had given a Commission to a Merchant at _Dresden_ to receive that Sum. The Bill did not come to the Merchant's Hands, till the very Day of my Departure; and as the Term was expir'd, he sent to my Quarters for the Money. I was not at home that Minute; and the Man hearing that I was to set out the same Day, made use of a Custom introduc'd and constantly observ'd in _Saxony_; which is, to arrest the Person that fails to answer a Bill of Exchange upon the Day appointed; so that just as I was going into my Chaise I was made a Prisoner. It happen'd to be about ten o'clock at Night. By Misfortune I had lost a great deal at Play this Carnival; and not having so much Money by me, I had recourse to the Count _de Flemming_; who lent it to me. This was the only time that I can be sure that n.o.bleman did me any Service. I repaid him soon after my Arrival at _Berlin_.

Without making a long stay at _Berlin_, I went and pa.s.s'd a few days at an Estate which I have, two Leagues out of that City; but the Uneasiness that haunted me every where, made me resolve to return to _France_, having still in View the getting some Establishment at _Berlin_ or elsewhere.

While I was preparing every thing for my Journey, I had the Misfortune to break my Left Leg by a Fall from my Horse. This Accident, after the various Disgraces and Disappointments I had already suffer'd, Does it not, _Madame_, give you the Idea of another _Orestes_, pursu'd by Destiny from one Country to another? I could expect nothing more after this, than to fall into the Hands of some Quack of a Bone-setter, who, after putting me to Torture, would, perhaps, leave me a Cripple for all the rest of my Life. To tell you the plain Truth, I had some Apprehension of it; for a Man of my Kidney could not but be afraid of every thing in such a Case.

However, whether it was owing to Hap-hazard, or to the Skill of the Surgeon, after suffering very great Torment, I was perfectly cur'd; and in such a manner, that I never felt any thing of it afterward. The ninth Day after my Fall I went to _Berlin_. As my Indisposition was such, that I could travel neither in a Chaise nor Coach, I hir'd Porters to carry me; so that my Entry was more than ordinary comic. This new Equipage surpriz'd all that saw it, the Children especially, who not being us'd to see such Carriages, follow'd me from the Out-parts of the City to my Lodgings; and as the Numbers swell'd by the Way, the Train consisted of at least 200 Followers, by that time I came home. I was very sensible, at my Arrival, that I had done wrong to be carried abroad so soon; for a Fever took me, and not long after an Imposthume gather'd, that bred the Distemper which they call in _France_ the _King's Evil_. A fresh Reason this for my Complaint of the Severity of my Destiny; for in reality I suffer'd such Pains for above twenty Days, as are impossible for me to express.

As soon as I was in a Condition to go abroad, I waited on the Queen, who had just receiv'd Tydings, that the Elector of _Hanover_, her Father, was then call'd over by the _English_ to succeed the deceas'd Queen _Anne_. No doubt, _Madame_, you remember the Joy there was at Court upon this News.

The King made an Offer to the new Monarch of any a.s.sistance that he might have occasion for, to support him on the Throne. Some days after the Arrival of this great News, I took leave of the Queen, and set out for HAMBOURG.

I was very well receiv'd in this City by _L----_, who was at that time Envoy from _Prussia_ to the Circle of Lower _Saxony_. I knew him at a time when Fortune, as it were, frown'd upon him; but now it might be said, that she had loaded him with her Favors. He was glad to see me, and that he had an Opportunity of shewing me in what Grandure he liv'd. Since he had married a Woman, who was, indeed, very old, but very rich, he had been so wise as to make an Acquaintance with such as were capable of serving him; and whether 'twas owing to Money, or to mere Favor, he was quickly made a Minister of State; and in a little time after receiv'd the Key as one of the King's Chamberlains. I was very well pleas'd to see him in so splendid a Situation; but could not help taking pity on him for being yok'd to a Wife so disagreeable. She was a Person, who with the Obstinacy and Ill-nature of Old Age, had all the Mettle of Youth, besides her being a perfect Original both in her Apparel, and in the Furniture of her House.

Her Husband could never prevail upon her to dress as became a Person of her Rank, nor to alter any thing in her Furniture, tho' ever so unpolite.

I had the Pleasure one day that I was invited thither to Supper, of examining the Inside of the House at my Leisure. The Apartment where we supp'd was furnish'd in a very whimsical Manner. The first Room was lin'd with black Leather gilt, and round it were plac'd Chairs of green Taffety, adorn'd with Furbelows of a Rose Color. The second Chamber was hung with green Tapestry. The Chairs were of black Velvet, lac'd with Gold, and the Room was full of Crystal Sconces. At one End of it there was an Alcove hung with white Leather gilded, and in the Middle of the Alcove there was a Bed of a very extraordinary Fashion, which had no Curtains, but had four Pillars to support the Tester, and a Wooden Cornish at the top gilded; and the Whole was cover'd with Mother of Pearl and Tortoise-sh.e.l.l. The Bed had a Counterpane on it of black Velvet and Gold-Lace. In the four Corners of the Alcove were four Statues of white Marble, each holding a Wax-Candle.

There were other Wax-Candles upon gilded Sconces, and a very fine Branch.

The Whole, I a.s.sure you, look'd much more like a Room for lying in State, than a Chamber for Entertainment. We sat down, however, to Table; but this amiable Lady refus'd to be of the Company, and chose to stay behind a Door, which was in the Alcove, from whence she resolv'd to be a Spectatress of the Entertainment through the c.h.i.n.ks.

We were all heartily at Supper, and in very little pain for the Absence of our Landlady, when on a sudden there came from the Alcove a very ugly Figure, dress'd all in white. I was the first that perceiv'd it; and really, if I had given ever so little Credit to the haunting of Houses by Spirits, I should have thought I then saw one. The Whole perfectly resembled that Scene of the Knight in the _Festin de Pierre_, excepting nevertheless that we were not honor'd with the least Obeisance. I heard swearing and scolding at the Domestics, which made me suspect that it might be the Mistress of the House. Nor was I mistaken, we were obliged for this Apparition to a Wax-Candle that drop'd upon a Velvet Chair, which she perceiv'd from the Place where she was conceal'd, and stay'd some time, thinking that one or other of the Domestics would have remedied this Evil; but at last seeing that no body minded it, she resolv'd to come out her self to the Relief of the Chair. This Apparition was the Cause of a great Hurly-burly; the Lackeys excus'd themselves, because they were employ'd in waiting; and there were long and warm Disputes on both sides, betwixt the Mistress and the Servants, during which, the Guests, who rose in Respect to the Lady, were all the while standing. The Husband endeavor'd to pacify his dear Spouse, and made her sensible of the Situation in which she kept us; upon which, without making the least Compliment, she sate down at the Table, and I thought the Rage of the Storm was over; but far from it, she was no sooner seated than she began again to rave with more Fury than before. A Lackey, to whom, it seems, all this Bawling was more distasteful than it was to us, thought fit to tell her very bluntly, _That she made a great Noise for nothing_. Then the Lady was quite outragious, and went to give the Lackey a Blow with all the Weight of her Arm; but the Droll cunningly parry'd it, by receiving the Stroke upon a Plate he had in his Hand; which, as he manag'd it, serv'd him for a Shield. The Gentlewoman gave herself such a terrible Blow, that for one while she could not speak; and when she came to her self, she made a worse Racket than before. At length, the Lackey was turn'd out of the Room; and at that very instant, luckily for us, the Pain which the Lady felt for the Blow, increas'd to such a degree, that she was forc'd to retire. She was no sooner gone but we all burst out in a Laugh. The Husband himself was ready to split his Sides, and desir'd the Company to be under no manner of Restraint, but to talk as gayly of this Adventure as we pleas'd. Indeed we were heartily merry at the Expence of the Old Lady; but yet we were the greatest Losers by it in the end; for while we thought her a good way out of Hearing, she thought fit to stay at the Door to listen to what we said, which not being to her liking, she took an immediate Revenge, for she deprived us of the Dessert, and the poor Husband had not Interest enough to get another.

I was so gorg'd at this charming Repast, that for fear of a second Invitation I set out next Day for HANOVER, where I arriv'd the very Day before the new King set out for _England_. The Electoress, his Mother, to whom the Crown first belong'd of Right, died suddenly, as she was walking in _Herrenhausen_ Garden, not long before Queen _Anne_ died. The Elector her Son was recogniz'd King by the _English_, as the next Protestant Heir; for if the Catholics could have had any Right to the Crown, this Elector would have been but the 23d or 24th in the direct Line. The n.o.bleman who acquainted the Elector of his Advancement to the Crown was my Lord _Clarendon_, Envoy from the Queen of _England_ at the Court of _Hanover_.