At the beginning of these Conferences there were some Difficulties started, relating to the Pretensions of the Nuncio and Nephew of the then Pope _Clement_ XI. who pretended that the Electors should pay him the first Visit; and that when he return'd it to them, they were bound to give him the Right Hand. The Electors were very much startled at the Nuncio's Demand, and publickly refus'd to subscribe to such Claims; so that no Visit was made on either side, and the Nuncio only saw the Electors in a Garden where they happen'd to meet by Chance. The Nuncio threaten'd he would protest against the Ninth Electorate establish'd in favor of the Family of _Brunswic-Hanover_, and against the Royal Dignity of _Prussia_; but he was given to understand, that neither of his Protestations would avail any thing. And the Amba.s.sadors of _Prussia_ sent him word in plain Terms, that if he offered to protest against the Regal Dignity of their Master, the King would not fail to give Order to his Troops that were in _Italy_, to enter into the Ecclesiastic State, and to live at Discretion therein, as if it were an Enemy's Country. The Nuncio frighted by those Menaces, and thinking he already saw the _Prussian_ Troops in his Holiness's Territories, sent his Secretary forthwith to the Amba.s.sadors to a.s.sure them that he wou'd not protest; that he never had a Thought nor Order for it; that his Holiness had all the Respect and Esteem for the King their Master which so great a Prince deserv'd; and that he would be glad to give Proofs of it upon every Occasion.

The Electors of _Cologn_ and _Bavaria_ protested likewise against the a.s.sembly, in case they were refused Admission to the Conferences for the Election; but they were of no more avail than those of the Nuncio. Those Princes sent their Protests by the Post, in form of Letters, directed to the Count _de Papenheim_ Marshal of the Empire, and seal'd with an unknown Seal. The Situation those Electors stood in at that time, did not permit them to cause their Protests to be publish'd with the due Formalities, nevertheless they were soon made public. The Respect and Friendship People had for the ill.u.s.trious Family of _Bavaria_, made every body eager to have Copies of 'em, but they signify'd nothing, and the Conferences continu'd.

On the 2d of _October_ the Conferences being ended for that Day, the Magistrates and Heads of the Militia, went in a Body to the Town-house, to take the Oath prescrib'd by the Golden Bull. They there found the Electors, who were at that time in _Francfort_, and the Amba.s.sadors of the absent Electors, all sitting in Chairs of State, under a great Canopy of black Velvet. After the Oath was read, the Magistrates and the Officers of the Militia took it in presence of the Elector of _Mentz_, as did also the Citizens and the Garison, but the Ceremony was different; for it was not taken in the Town-house, but without it, in an open Gallery, rais'd in a great Square, and hung with Cloth. There the Chancellors of the two Spiritual Electors and the Magistrates receiv'd the Oath of the Citizens, in presence of the Electors and Amba.s.sadors, who were plac'd at the Windows of the Town-house. The Burghers, who were to the Number of 14 Companies, took the Oath first, and then the Soldiers of the Garrison.

On the 10th of _October_ Proclamation was made by Sound of Trumpet for all Foreigners, who were not in the Retinue of the Electors, or the Electoral Amba.s.sadors, to retire out of the City before the Sun was set, till the Electors had chose an Emperor. The Nuncio thought at first, that his Character and the Respect due to the Holy Father would exempt him from the general Rule; but being inform'd of the contrary, he retir'd to _Aschaffenbourg_.

On the 12th, about seven in the Morning all the Bells were rung, upon which the Burghers and the Soldiers of the Garrison a.s.sembled at the Houses of their respective commanding Officers; and then went and posted themselves in the Streets leading from the Town-house to the Church of St.

_Bartholomew_. The Burghers had the Post of Honor from the Soldiers. At nine o'clock the Electors and Amba.s.sadors went to the Town-house, the Courts and Equipages of all but the Amba.s.sadors of _Bohemia_ having laid aside their Mourning.

The Moment after the Electors arriv'd in the usual Chamber of the a.s.sembly they went into other Rooms, where they caus'd themselves to be dress'd in their Electoral Habits, which are very majestic, being wide Gowns very much plaited with very long Sleeves, the Linings and Facings being of Ermin; and over all the Electors wear a sort of Mantle of Ermin. The Habits for the Spiritual and Temporal Electors are much the same, only those of the former are of Scarlet, and those of the latter of Crimson-Velvet. Their Caps are of the Color of their Habits, and like them turn'd up with Ermin.

As soon as the Electors were dress'd they return'd to the a.s.sembly-Room, and then went with the Amba.s.sadors of the other Electors from the Town-House to the Square, where they found Horses sumptuously caparison'd, which they mounted, and thus rode in Cavalcade to St. _Bartholomew_'s Church. The three Electors rode first in one Row bare-headed. The four Amba.s.sadors of the absent Electors rode next, according to the Rank of their Masters. Their Electoral Highnesses and the Amba.s.sadors were receiv'd at the Door of the Church by the Bishop of _Neustadt_ at the Head of the Chapter, who conducted them into the Choir, where they plac'd themselves, according to their Rank, in the Stalls of the Canons, which were lin'd with Velvet and Gold-Lace. The Elector of _Triers_ sate by himself opposite to the Altar, where a Praying-Desk and an Arm-Chair were set up for him, which were lin'd also with Crimson-Velvet.

When all the Company were seated, the Bishop of _Neustadt_ began the Ma.s.s.

At the first Consecration, the Amba.s.sadors of the Protestant Electors went into the Chappel of the Conclave which joins to the Choir: After the Elevation of the Host they return'd to their Places, where they remain'd during the rest of the Office, and then the Electors and Amba.s.sadors all went up to the Altar. The Elector of _Mentz_ was in the middle between the Elector of _Triers_ on his Right and the Elector-Palatine on his Left. The Amba.s.sadors were in the same Row, according to their Rank, on the Right and Left of the Electors. The Elector of _Mentz_ took the Book of the Gospels and laid his Right Hand upon it, as did also the Electors that were present, and the Amba.s.sadors of those who were absent, and then took the customary Oath to elect no Person for Emperor but one that they should think in Conscience to be most qualify'd. After having taken the Oath they went into the Chapel of the Conclave, where they were shut up near three Hours. Then they return'd into the Church and plac'd themselves in a Gallery erected over the Grate that separates the Choir from the Nave, which was lin'd with Scarlet Cloth and hung with Tapestry, and had seven Arm-Chairs plac'd in it of red Velvet, adorn'd with Lace and Fringe of Gold. The Electors and Amba.s.sadors being seated, the Chancellor of _Mentz_ read aloud the Act which had been just drawn up in the Conclave, whereby CHARLES King of the _Romans_, and of _Spain_, was proclaim'd Emperor. Then the whole Church resounded with great Shouts of _Long live the Emperor_!

And at the same instant the Cannon was fir'd from the Ramparts, and the Burghers and the Garison made three Discharges of their small Arms.

After the Proclamation the Electors and the Amba.s.sadors descended from the Gallery to their Places in the Choir, and after the singing of _Te Deum_ which was tun'd by the Bishop of _Neustadt_, they return'd to the Town-House in the same Order that they came. There the Electors quitted their Robes of Ceremony, and each return'd to their Palaces, where they stay'd till the Evening; and the Amba.s.sadors did the same. At Night they all supp'd at the House of the Count _de Windisgratcht_, the first Amba.s.sador of _Bohemia_, and by consequence the Amba.s.sador of the new Emperor, who gave a magnificent Feast, which was accompany'd with a very fine Concert of Music. This great Day's Work was concluded by the Choice which the Electoral College made of Prince _Charles_ of _Neubourg_, to carry to the new Emperor the Act of his Proclamation.

Notwithstanding the surprizing Concourse of People from all Quarters to see this august Ceremony, there was not the least Disorder in the whole Solemnity, excepting a little Dispute that happen'd between the Prince _de la Tour Taxis_ and the Count of _Na.s.sau-Weilbourg_. The former, tho' of a modern Family in comparison to the Count, yet presuming upon his t.i.tle of Prince, claim'd Precedency of the Count, but the latter decided the Difference in an instant; for he took the Prince by the Arm, and pushing him behind him, said to him, _You are to know, Sir, that such Princes as you are, walk behind such Counts as I am_. The Prince very much stunn'd at the Compliment, did not think proper to push his Pretensions farther.

Immediately after the Ceremony of the Election was over, I set out for _Zell_, where I had the Misfortune to find my self Motherless as well as Fatherless. My Mother having died there during my stay at _Francfort_, whose Death grieved me very much, and the more because 'twas the first Incident I had met with in all my Life to give me a serious Concern: But now perhaps, that I am more us'd to Disappointments, such News would not make so much Impression upon me as it did then.

I stay'd some time at _Zell_ to settle several Affairs with my Brother relating to my Mother's Succession, till I had a Letter acquainting me that the Ceremony of the Emperor's Coronation was fix'd for the 22d of _December_, and thereupon I set out immediately again for _Francfort_.

I travell'd thro' _Hanover_, which I have already had the Honor to mention to you, and from _Hanover_ I went to Ca.s.sEL, which Town is the common Residence of the Landgrave of _Hesse_, and divided into two Parts by the River _Fulde_. The New Town is very well built with pretty Houses, and the Streets are very even and s.p.a.cious. The Landgrave's Palace which is old is encompa.s.s'd with Ramparts, part of which on that side next to the Country forms a Terras planted with Orange-Trees, which in Winter are cover'd by a boarded House. The Name of the present Landgrave is _Charles_, who was born the 3d of _August_ 1654, and has had seven Children by _Mary-Amelia_ of _Courland_.

1. Prince _Frederic_, born the 28th of _August_ 1676, who became King of _Sweden_ by his Marriage with _Eleonora_ Princess of _Sweden_, who succeeded _Charles_ XII. He had to his first Wife _Louisa-Dorothea-Sophia_ only Daughter of the King of _Prussia_, at which time he was Stadtholder of _Cleves_, and had a Regiment of Foot in his Majesty's Service.

2. The Princess _Sophia-Charlotta_ d.u.c.h.ess-Dowager of _Mecklemburg-Swerin_, who lives still in _Mecklemburg_, from whence she often goes to the Court of her Father.

3. Prince _William_, who is a Lieutenant-General of the _Dutch_ Forces, and Governor of _Maestricht_. He marry'd _Wilhelmina_ of _Saxe-Zeits_.

4. The Princess _Mary-Louisa_, Dowager of the Prince of _Na.s.sau-Friesland_ drown'd in his Pa.s.sage at the _Moerd.y.k.e_.

5. The Prince _Maximilian_, marry'd to a Princess of _Hesse-Darmstad_.

6. The Prince _George_, a General Officer in the Service of _Prussia_, Colonel of a Regiment of Foot, and Knight of the Order of the Black Eagle.

7. _Wilhelmina-Charlotte_, who was a most accomplish'd Princess, but died some time ago.

These Princes and Princesses met very often at the Court of the Landgrave their Father, and then render'd it one of the most splendid in _Germany_, not only by reason of their Magnificence, but for their affable Deportment to all Mankind, but especially to Foreigners. I was loth to go from _Ca.s.sel_, but as the Term fix'd for the Emperor's Coronation drew near, I could not stay there any longer.

And indeed, I arrived at FRANCFORT but a few Hours before the Emperor. The Electors and Amba.s.sadors went out of Town and met his Imperial Majesty, as did also the Magistrates with the Burgo-Master, and complimented him under a Tent erected there for that purpose. When the Compliments were ended his Majesty went again into his Coach, as did the Electors and Amba.s.sadors into theirs, and they enter'd the City while the Cannon fir'd and the People shouted, _Long live the Emperor Charles_ VI. His Imperial Majesty alighted at the Church of St. _Bartholomew_. The Elector-Palatine who was so indispos'd that he could not go out to meet his Majesty, receiv'd him at the Door of the Church, as did also the Bishop of _Neustadt_ at the Head of the Chapter; and his Majesty was conducted to a Throne set up for him on the Right-side of the Altar, by the Electors. The Elector-Palatine walk'd before, and the two other Electors supported the Emperor. When he was seated on his Throne, the Bishop tun'd the _Te Deum_, and gave the Benediction. The Emperor was afterwards conducted with the same Ceremonies to his Palace, which was hung with Mourning. The Electors and Amba.s.sadors having accompany'd his Imperial Majesty to his Closet, retir'd to their respective Habitations. The next and following Days the Emperor receiv'd the Visits of the Electors, the Amba.s.sadors, and the Electoress Palatine, which he return'd.

When the 22d of _December_, the Day fix'd for the Coronation, was arriv'd, all the Burghers and the Garison were drawn up under Arms all the way from the Imperial Palace to the Church. The Procession was begun by the Footmen and Pages belonging to the Amba.s.sadors, to the Elector-Palatine and to the Emperor, and they were follow'd by the Courtiers of the Elector and of the Emperor, and by Persons of Quality that were in the Amba.s.sadors Retinue.

After them there appear'd six Heralds at Arms, the first of which carry'd a single Eagle, the second a double Cross, the third a Lion, and the three others Spread-Eagles, the whole after the manner of the _Roman_ Ensigns.

After the Heralds, came the Amba.s.sadors, the Vicars of the Electors, and the Elector-Palatine, bearing the _Imperialia_ or Ornaments of the Empire; and immediately after them the Emperor appear'd, under a stately Canopy.

His Habit was like that of the Secular Electors, that is to say, a Robe of Crimson-Velvet turn'd up with Ermin: He had on his Head a Crown enrich'd with Diamonds, which was the Crown of his Family, and he rode a very fine _Spanish_ Horse, the Equipage of which was truly magnificent. Behind the Emperor came the princ.i.p.al Officers of his Houshold, and the Captain of the Guards at the Head of his Company; and the Elector-Palatine's Life-Guards closed the March.

When the Emperor arrived at the Church, the Electors of _Mentz_ and _Triers_ in their Pontificalibus went and receiv'd him at the Door, from whence they conducted him to his Seat in the Choir over-against the High Altar. There his Imperial Majesty heard the Ma.s.s, after which he was conducted to the Town-House almost in the same Order as was observ'd at his coming to Church, with this Difference, that the Emperor was deck'd with the Ornaments of the Empire, which consist of the Crown, the Mantle, and _Charlemain_'s Sword. His Majesty was now on foot between the two Ecclesiastical Electors, who accompany'd him, as did the Elector-Palatine, and the Vicars and Amba.s.sadors of the absent Electors to the Great Hall of the Town-House, where the Imperial Feast was prepar'd. The Emperor plac'd himself at one of the Windows looking into the great Square, on purpose to be seen by the People; of whom there was such a Mult.i.tude, that not only the Square but the Windows and Roofs of the Houses were cover'd with them.

From this Window his Majesty saw the Officers of the Empire perform their Functions. The Count _de Papenheim_ the Elector of _Saxony_'s Vicar, as Grand Marshal of the Empire, was the first that began the Ceremony. He was mounted on a very fine Horse, which he rode full gallop to a Heap of Oats in one Corner of the Square, wherewith he fill'd a Measure of Silver, after which he return'd to the Middle of the Square, where he threw both the Oats and the Measure among the Populace, and then he went to the Banquetting-Room.

The Elector-Palatine appear'd next, encompa.s.s'd with his Guards, and preceded by his Courtiers. He went on horseback to a Kitchen built for the purpose in the great Square, where he found a whole Ox roasting on a Spit, of which he cut off a Slice, and putting it into a Gold Dish he carry'd it to the Emperor's Table.

The Count _de Zinzendorf_, Vicar to the Elector of _Hanover_ as Treasurer of the Empire, came next. He was on horseback attended by the Emperor's Guards, and taking a compa.s.s round the Square he scatter'd Medals of Gold and Silver among the Populace, which he took out of a couple of Bags of Cloth that were ty'd to his Saddle-Bow. These Medals represented on one side the Globe of the Earth encompa.s.s'd with Clouds, and this _Latin_ Inscription, _Constantia & Fort.i.tudine_. On the other side was this Legend, _Carolus, Hispaniarum, Hung. & Bohem. Rex. A. A. Electus in Regem Roman. coronat. Francof. 22 Decemb. 1711_. Over which there was an Imperial Crown like to that of _Charlemain_.

The Count _de Dhona_ Amba.s.sador from the King as Elector of _Brandenburg_, perform'd the Function of Great Chamberlain of the Empire in the absence of the Prince of _Hohenzollern_ the Elector's Vicar, who was at that time indispos'd. The Count preceded by all his Livery, and accompany'd by some of the Emperor's Guards, rode on horseback towards the middle of the Square, where a Table was erected on which there was a Basin and Ewer of Silver gilt full of Water, with a Napkin that had been dipp'd in it, all which he took and carry'd into the Banquetting-Room, and gave to the Emperor to wash.

Afterwards the Count _de Kinski_, Amba.s.sador of his Imperial Majesty as King of _Bohemia_, officiated for the Person whom he represented, as Great Cup-Bearer of the Empire: For this purpose he took a Goblet of Gold and fetch'd Wine at a Fountain erected in the middle of the Square representing the Imperial Eagle; which done, the Count went into the Banquetting-Room, and gave it to the Emperor to drink.

Thus did the Officers of the Empire acquit themselves of their several Functions: After this the Emperor plac'd himself alone at a Table upon a rais'd Floor, cover'd with red Cloth; and over it there was a Canopy of Gold Brocade. When the Emperor was seated the Electors plac'd themselves at Tables that were prepar'd for them on both sides of the Hall, on Floors that were a Step lower than the Emperor's. Over each Table there was a Canopy of Crimson-Velvet inrich'd with Gold, and they had each an Arm-Chair of the same. On the Right-side of each Table there was a magnificent Beaufet. The three Electors sate alone at their several Tables, and the Amba.s.sadors of the absent Electors, after having stood a little while behind the Chairs plac'd for their respective Masters, went into another Room. On the following Days the Electors din'd with the Emperor, and his Majesty went also and din'd with the Electors. At length, after the Emperor had perform'd all the Ceremonies that are observ'd at Coronations, he set out from _Francfort_ for his Hereditary Dominions, where he was impatiently expected by his Subjects.

Just as I was ready to depart from _Francfort_ I receiv'd the melancholy News of the Death of the King's Brother the Margrave _Philip_, to whom I was very much attached, and was therefore mightily afflicted for the Loss of him. The King's Amba.s.sadors, to avoid the Expence of putting their Equipage in Mourning, kept his Death secret, so that they did not notify it to his Imperial Majesty till the Day before he went.

I set out from _Francfort_ much about the same time as the Emperor did, and pa.s.s'd through _Ca.s.sel_, _Hanover_, and _Dusseldorff_. I lik'd _Francfort_ so well before, that it tempted me to return to it; and besides, that was the Place to which a Pa.s.sport was to be directed that I had sent for from _France_, in order to carry me to _Paris_. As soon as I receiv'd it I traveled thro' _Minden_, which I have already had the Honor to mention to you; and from thence, after having pa.s.s'd through _Bilefeld_ a little Town in the County of _Ravensberg_, I arriv'd at MUNSTER.

This, which was formerly an Imperial City, is now the See of a Bishop, Prince of the Empire, and Lord of the Town and its Jurisdiction. It stands in _Westphalia_ in a large Plain, and on a little River which renders it very strong. It was the Birth-place of the famous _Muntzer_, the Head of the Anabaptists, a Sect of Heretics, who grew so powerful that they undertook to make themselves Masters of the City, and to chuse themselves a King; and about the End of the sixteenth Century, they accordingly chose for their Sovereign one _John of Leyden_, a Taylor, infamous for the Cruelties and Outrages which he committed. But Heaven deliver'd the City from such a Scourge; for at length after some Resistance it was reduc'd, and _John of Leyden_ was put to death by the Hangman. The City revolted again afterwards; but at last the Bishop humbled it in 1661, and since that time it has always been subject to the Bishops its Sovereigns. 'Twas at _Munster_ that was held the famous a.s.sembly of _Westphalia_, which establish'd the Fortune of many Sovereigns, and the Religion of their Subjects. The Peace which was there sign'd serves also as a Basis for all the Treaties that are made at this time. The Treaty of _Munster_ imported in substance, "That _Maximilian_ Duke of _Bavaria_ should remain in Possession of the Electorate of the Counts Palatine, which had been given him by the Emperor _Ferdinand_ II: That _Charles Lewis_ Count Palatine should be restor'd to his Princ.i.p.ality, and be created an eighth Elector for himself and his Descendants. That the Protestants should have their Churches and the free Exercise of their Religion, on the Footing as it was in 1624; and that they should retain the Church-Revenues, of which they had been possess'd ever since the first of _January_, that Year: That _Sweden_ should have Hither-_Pomerania_, a Part of the other _Pomerania_, the Island and Princ.i.p.ality of _Rugen_, the Town and Port of _Wismar_, Archbishopric of _Bremen_, and the Bishopric of _Verden_, with the t.i.tle of a Duchy: That the Elector of _Brandenburg_ should have the Bishoprics of _Halberstadt_, _Minden_ and _Camin_, with the Farther-_Pomerania_: That _France_ should have the intire Sovereignty of _Metz_, _Toul_, and _Verdun_, and the Dependencies thereof, that of _Pignerol_ and _Brisac_, the Landgraviate of Upper and Lower _Alsace_, _&c._ That the Confederates should restore the Towns they had taken, and disband their Troops; and that the seven Circles of the Empire should furnish five Millions of Rixdollars for the Pay of the _Swedish_ Soldiers." Such were the Conditions of this Peace, which was not very advantageous to the Catholic Religion.

The Bishop who had the See of _Munster_ while I was there, was of the Family of _Metternich_, and at the same time Bishop of _Paderborn_. I did not stay long in that City, but proceeded thro' _Dusseldorff_, where I found the whole Court return'd from _Francfort_.

From thence I set out for COLOGNE[35], where M. _Happe_ who was appointed by the King to levy the Contributions which _Luxembourg_ and other neighbouring Countries were oblig'd to pay, entertain'd me very civilly, gave me an Apartment at his House, and made me exceeding welcome.

I stay'd some time in this City, which is a very flourishing Town by reason of its convenient Situation for the Trade of their Merchants, who have great Vessels constantly going up and down the _Rhine_, to _Francfort_ and _Holland_. 'Tis a pretty large City, but always very dirty and ill pav'd, and the Houses are for most part very old, and consequently dark and incommodious. The City is governed by a Senate, which does not depend on the Elector, whose Power is very much limited, he having no Authority but in Criminal Affairs; yet he is allow'd Sovereign Command for three Days, after which if he stays at _Cologne_ he is no more regarded than a private Gentleman. This is the reason that the Prince commonly resides at _Bonn_, and that he only goes to _Cologne_ on the Eves of the Grand Festivals, to officiate there. Nevertheless the City is oblig'd to pay Homage to the Elector, and to swear Fidelity to him, on Condition that he preserve them in the Enjoyment of their Privileges; which is a Condition that the Elector can scarce violate were he ever so much inclin'd to it, because 'tis the City that maintains the Garison, and is Mistress of the a.r.s.enal.

The Catholic is the only Religion that is allow'd to be exercised at _Cologne_. Nor are Protestants admitted into the Senate, or any Employment in the City, but go to preach at _Mulheim_, a little Town in the Country of _Berg_, which belongs to the Elector-Palatine.

I had not the Honor of seeing the Elector, who by reason of the Misfortunes he had suffer'd in the late Wars, was oblig'd at that time to live in _France_. His Name was _Joseph-Clement_ of _Bavaria_. He possess'd the Bishoprics of _Hildesheim_ and _Liege_, together with the Archbishopric of _Cologne_. He died the 12th of _November_ 1723, after having caus'd his Nephew the Duke _Clement_ of _Bavaria_, Bishop of _Munster_ and _Paderborn_ to be chose Co-adjutor of _Cologne_.

The Archbishops of _Cologne_ are Great Chancellors of the Empire in _Italy_, but don't officiate as such; for most of the Princes of _Italy_ pretend to be independent of the Empire, or call themselves perpetual Vicars thereof; and in this Quality they perform what the Emperor might do within the Extent of their Jurisdictions. This however extends only to common Cases, for in extraordinary ones they are oblig'd to have recourse to the Imperial Court. Then 'tis the Elector of _Mentz_ alone who officiates in quality of Chancellor of _Germany_; and 'tis he that has the Custody of the Archives and t.i.tles which relate to _Italy_.

The Electors of _Cologne_ for a long time contested with those of _Mentz_ the Right of consecrating the Emperors, tho' the latter pretend this Honor belongs to them, as Primates of _Germany_. But the Differences between those Princes have been regulated; and they have agreed that either of them, in whose Diocese the Emperor happens to be crown'd, should consecrate him; and that if the Coronation should be perform'd in neither of their Dioceses, then they should take it by turns. Nevertheless after this Accommodation the Elector of _Cologne_ consecrated the Emperor _Leopold_ in 1658, at _Francfort_ a City in the Diocese of _Mentz_; but it was done with the Consent of the Elector of _Mentz_, and without making it a Precedent for the future.

I have observ'd, that at _Cologne_ most of the public Buildings are either Churches or Convents. The Metropolitan Church would be one of the most magnificent in all _Germany_, were it finish'd. Among other stately Tombs here is that of the _Three Kings_ who came to worship the Savior of the World, whose Bodies they say were remov'd from _Constantinople_ to _Milan_, and from thence brought hither. All the People have a very great Veneration for these Reliques.

Except the Churches and the Monasteries one sees no public Structures, nor any House fine enough to raise a Stranger's Admiration; here is still to be seen the House where Death put an end to the Misfortunes of _Mary de Medicis_, Queen of _France_, who came to _Cologne_ for Refuge from the Persecution of Cardinal _Richelieu_. This Cardinal, tho' he was oblig'd to that Princess for his prodigious Wealth, was not content with having forc'd her to quit the Kingdom of _France_, but abridg'd her even of the Necessaries of Life; insomuch that 'twas a hard matter for her to find a Butcher that would undertake to serve the Table of that unfortunate Princess with Meat. She died the 3d of _July_, 1643.

After I had amused my self with seeing what was to be seen in the City of _Cologne_, I long'd so much to see that famous City _Paris_, that I set out thither very soon. I forgot to tell you that the Out-works of _Cologne_, especially the Ramparts are very agreeable. There are n.o.ble Rows of Elms which serve for Walks, and terminate in a Kay that runs along the _Rhine_, and would be a very fine one, if it was not disfigur'd by a Half-moon, which has been cut out to cover the Gate of the _Rhine_, and to secure the Pa.s.sage of the Flying-Bridge.

When I set out from _Cologne_ I went down the _Rhine_ and the _Vahal_, as far as _Dort_, and from thence (without once going ash.o.r.e) to ANTWERP, which City I take to be the most beautiful of all the _Netherlands_. It makes a part of _Austrian Brabant_, and is the Capital of the Marquisate of the Holy Empire. 'Tis situate in a great Plain on the Right-side of the _Schelde_, at a Place where that River separates the Duchy of _Brabant_ from the County of _Flanders_. It contains a number of Churches built in a very good Taste, and a great many very n.o.ble public Edifices. The Church of our Lady, which is the Cathedral, is a Work that has nothing like it except it be in _Italy_. 'Tis above 500 Feet in length, 240 in breadth, and 340 in height. It contains Sixty-six Chapels, adorn'd with Marble Columns, all different, and with fine Paintings. The Tower which serves for the Steeple is very lofty and perfectly beautiful.

The most magnificent of the Churches, next to the Cathedral, was that of the _Jesuits_, which was consum'd by Lightning the 18th of _July_, 1718.

The Pavement was of Marble, in Compartiments. There were two low Isles, one above the other, which were supported by fifty-six Marble Pillars. The four Arches were clos'd with thirty-eight great Pictures in gilt Frames, and the Walls in which there were forty Windows were lin'd with Marble.

The great Roof was of very fine carv'd Work, charg'd with a small Dome, very lightsome and very well made. As to the High Altar it would require an able Connoisseur to give such a Description of it as the Beauty of the Workmanship requires: For my own part all I can say of it is, that 'twas all over Marble, Jasper, Porphyry, and Gold. The Picture represented the a.s.sumption of the Virgin _Mary_, and was a complete Piece. Our Lady's Chapel, which was a part of the same Church, was as rich as the rest of the Building, the Sides and the Roof of it being fac'd with Marble, and adorn'd with six Statues of Alabaster. Besides this Chapel there were fifty others, all of the utmost Magnificence. The Great Gate of the Church, and the _Jesuits_ College adjoining to it, were answerable to the Beauty of the Structure. All this stately Building was entirely destroy'd; and what is most to be pitied, the Pictures of the famous _Rubens_, of which this Church was full, were destroy'd with it; a Loss the more considerable, because 'tis not to be repair'd; for as to the rest, they are preparing to build a Church as magnificent as the former.

There are several other fine Edifices at _Antwerp_, of which I don't undertake the Description. I shall only mention a Word or two of the Town-House and the Exchange. The former stands in a great Square, encompa.s.s'd with fine Houses. Tho' the Building is quite in the _Gothic_ Taste, yet 'tis a n.o.ble Monument of the Wealth of those who founded it.

The Exchange is worth seeing, on account of the Galleries round the Square, in which the Merchants a.s.semble as they do at _Amsterdam_, from 12 o'clock till half an hour past 1.