_London_ stands on the Left-side of the River, where it forms a Crescent.

The famous Bridge upon which Queen _Elizabeth_ caused the Head of the Earl of _Ess.e.x_ to be exposed, after having flatter'd him that he should one Day be a Partner in her Throne, is eight hundred Feet long, and sixty broad; but the Prospect of the River is stopp'd by Houses on both Sides, which are neither fine nor lofty.

St. _Paul_'s Church, the Cathedral of _London_, is, next to St. _Peter_'s at _Rome_, the greatest and most stately Temple in _Europe;_ and I even question, whether it would not be more magnificent than St. _Peter_'s, if it had such a Square or Colonnade before it, as that has; but I mean only the Outside of it; for as to the Inside, they are not to be compar'd. The princ.i.p.al Front of St. _Paul_'s is of that sort of Architecture which the old _Romans_, those Masters in the Art of Building, would not perhaps have thought unworthy of their Time; tho' 'tis certain this beautiful Front is render'd the less majestic by two little Towers or Steeples of a very _Gothic_ Taste, which are placed upon the two Angles of the Building. This whole Fabric stands by itself, and is built in the Form of a Cross, with a great Dome in the middle. The Entrance to it is by three grand Porticos on the North, South, and West. Opposite to the princ.i.p.al Front there's an Area, encompa.s.s'd with an Iron Palisado, in the midst of which is a white marble Statue of Queen _Anne_, in whose Reign this Church was finish'd; which was begun so long ago as after the Great Fire, in the Reign of _Charles_ II. The Queen is there represented standing with all her Regalia. She holds in her Right hand a Sceptre; but 'tis so much like a Wax Taper, that one would almost swear she was performing an[123] _Amende honorable_: And really, this Statue is unworthy of the Queen whom it represents; of the Church before which it stands, and of the City of _London_, by whose Order 'twas erected. All the Church is of very white Stone, which the Smoke, that Bane of _London_, has rendered black on one Side. The Inside of it is as plain as the Outside is magnificent. The Dome only is painted of an _Ash_ Colour. The Choir (for the Church of _England_ retains the Use of Choirs) is separated from the Nave, by a Wall of just such a Height as to support the Organs, which by this Means serve the Choir and the Nave of the Church alike, but disfigure both. The Seats, or Stalls of the Lord Mayor and Aldermen, when they a.s.sist at _Te Deum_, are of Wood, and built like those of the Canons in our Churches. The subterraneous Parts are very magnificent, and contain Vaults, in which are interred such People as they belong to.

The famous Monument erected in Memory of that sad Conflagration which consumed one Third of the City, in the Reign of King _Charles_ II. is a very lofty Pillar of the _Doric_ Order, fluted, and has a Stair-case in the Inside of it, which goes up to a Platform at the Top, from whence there's a Prospect of the whole City, and a great many fine Scenes.

The _Royal-Exchange_, where the Merchants meet at One o'Clock every Day, is a large square Building of Free-stone. The grand Portico is adorned with Columns, and has a Tower on the Top, with Chimes in it. The Inside of it consists of a Court surrounded with Piazzas, over which are placed the Statues of the Kings that have reigned in _England_; which are of Free-stone, and all done by bad Hands. The Statue of King _Charles_ II. in whose Reign this Edifice was built, stands in the midst of this Court, and is of white Marble, representing the King in the Habit of a _Roman_ Emperor. This is not one of the worst Statues in _London_; where indeed Sculpture is of all Arts the least cultivated; but why, I can't conceive; since most of the _English_ n.o.bility have been in _Italy_, and have there acquired a Taste for what is fine and curious.

The famous Tower of _London_, which is, as it were, the Citadel of this Metropolis, stands on the Bank of the _Thames_, at the Extremity of the City, going down the River. It contains several Buildings, but without Uniformity. Here are kept the Jewels of the Crown, and the Crown itself, Lions, and other outlandish Creatures, and the a.r.s.enal of Arms; and in this Tower are confined certain Prisoners of State; but thro' good Fortune, the Reign of King _George_ II. now upon the Throne, has been so free from Punishment or Severity, that the Tower is empty of Prisoners.

As one goes up the _Thames_ towards St. _James_'s, End of the Town, where the King and most of the n.o.bility reside, one pa.s.ses along by a Palace called the _Savoy_, because it was built by the Princes of _Savoy_, Uncles of Queen _Eleanor_ of _Provence_, Wife to _Henry_ III. This Building has nothing in it from one End to the other, but what is very deformed. The Chamber is still to be seen here in which _John_ II. King of _France_ was imprisoned, who, like _Regulus_, came and re-delivered himself into the Custody of his Conqueror, when he found the Estates of his Kingdom not disposed to perform the Terms of Peace, which he had signed, and which were the Condition of his having obtained Leave to go to _France_.

The Palace of _Whitehall_, which is the common Landing-place for People that come out of the City by Water, is nothing to what it was possibly before the unhappy Fire began, by which it was consumed in the Reign of _William_ and _Mary_. There's a Pile of Building yet standing, which is magnificent, and is called the _Banquetting-House_. I was here shewn the very Window which the unfortunate _Charles_ I. came out of, when the Usurper _Cromwel_ made him walk from the Throne to the Scaffold. All the Buildings called by the Name of _Whitehall_, are now in the Hands of private Owners, by Grants of the late King _George_ I.

St. _James_'s Palace, where the King lives, is only separated from _Whitehall_ by St. _James_'s Park. This House has nothing in it answerable to the Majesty of the Prince who resides in it, and there are few Princes in _Europe_ worse lodged than the King of _England_. I have been a.s.sured, that the Nation offered the late King _George_ I. to build him a new Palace; but that he made Answer, that since so many Kings, his Predecessors, had lived in that Palace, and been content with it, he thought it would do as well for him; and that he did not desire, that, for the sake of accommodating him, the Nation should be put to any sort of Inconvenience; but that its Funds might be employed in something that was more urgent, and more useful.

St. _James_'s Park is the same Thing here as the _Thuilleries_ are at _Paris_; only this Park is more plain and artless; for here is Meadow Ground, with Walks of Trees, and a Ca.n.a.l in the middle of the whole. Mean time this Simplicity has a certain Beauty, which cannot be describ'd, tho'

the Spectator feels it, and prefers it to the finest Gardens. _Charles_ II. who was vastly fond of walking out for the Air, had a mind to make Embellishments in the Park, and for this End sent to _Paris_ for the famous _Le Neautre_, the Man that laid out the Garden of the _Thuilleries_, and the Park at _Versailles_. But this _Frenchman_, after having viewed the Park well, advised the King to let it stand as it did, a.s.suring him that he could not make any thing better than it was. The grand Walk called the Mall, is full of People every Hour of the Day, but especially in the Morning and Evening; and their Majesties often walk in it with the Royal Family, who are attended only by half a dozen Yeomen of the Guard, and permit all Persons, without Distinction of Rank or Character, to walk there at the same Time with 'em; for which Reason the Crowd of People here is sometimes too great; but then it forms one of the most diversified Scenes imaginable: The Ladies and Gentlemen always appear here in rich Dresses; for the _English_, who Twenty Years ago did not wear Gold lace, but in their Army, are now embroidered and bedawb'd as much as the _French_; I speak of Persons of Quality; for the Citizen still contents himself with a Suit of fine Cloth, a good Hat and Wig, and fine Linen: Every body in general is well clad here, and even the Beggars don't make so ragged an Appearance as they do elsewhere.

Of the fine Houses that open to the Park, those of _Marlborough_ and _Buckingham_ are the most considerable. The former is very richly furnished, and adorned with admirable Paintings. 'Tis occupied by the Dowager of that great Duke of _Marlborough_, who led the _English_ to triumph where-ever he came, and made the proudest of Kings to tremble.

_Buckingham_ House is not so big as _Marlborough_ House, but infinitely better situate; for it fronts the great Walk of St. _James_'s Park, and is only separated from it by Grates of Iron. 'Tis one grand Building, with two advanced Wings, one on each Side, that are united to the main Body of the Building, by two open Galleries, forming a Semi-circle. In the middle of the Court there's a fine Water-work, and behind the House a great and magnificent Garden, at the End whereof there was to be a Ca.n.a.l, which was actually begun, but remains unfinish'd. This fine House is occupied by the d.u.c.h.ess Dowager of _Buckingham_, a natural Daughter of King _James_ II.

St. _James_'s Quarter of the Town, and all the Out-parts of _London_ in general, are very regularly built, the Streets strait, broad and airy, and want nothing but to be better paved; which is a great Misfortune, that cannot be remedied but by an excessive Expence. They say, that _Lewis_ XIV. offered _Charles_ II. to furnish him Stones enough to pave _London_, provided _Charles_ would furnish him with Gravel from _England_, to lay in the Gardens of his Royal Palaces. Whether this be true, I know not; but it seems to me that the Advantage would have been for the _English_ Prince. Be it as it will, the Bargain was not struck, and _London_ is still the Sufferer for want of it.

There are several great and fine Squares here, some of which, in my Opinion, would be more beautiful, were it not for the Fancy of adorning them with Gardens, which perhaps is owing to the Want of Stones for paving them. As these are encompa.s.sed with Iron Palisadoes, they look very much like Church-yards. St. _James_'s Square is the most considerable in _London_, not only for its Bigness, but for the Residence of Persons of the greatest Quality. Instead of a Garden, it contains a great fine Piece of Water, surrounded with an iron Bal.u.s.trade. Three Sides of this Square are very regular; and it were to be wished, that the Proprietors of the fourth Side would be prevailed to build that in the same Manner. In this Square live the Earl of _Strafford_, Amba.s.sador from Queen _Anne_ to the Congress at _Utrecht_; and the Duke of _Norfolk_, a _Roman_ Catholic, Earl Marshal, first Duke, and first Baron of _England_, Chief of the Ill.u.s.trious Family of _Howard_; from whence was descended _Catharine_ the Fifth Wife of _Henry_ VIII. who had not a more happy Fate than the unfortunate _Anne Bullen_, who preceded her. The Duke of _Norfolk_'s House here has very fine Furniture, and most magnificent Pictures.

_Grosvenor_'s Square, which is just finished, is even larger than St.

_James_'s Square, and its Houses are much more magnificent. In the middle of the Garden is the Statue of King _George_ I. on Horseback, of Lead, gilt, and indeed very ill executed. Of the many Statues that there are in _London_, the best is that of _Charles_ I. represented on Horseback in Bra.s.s. It owes its Preservation to a sort of Miracle: The Usurper _Cromwell_ having caused it to be pulled down, and exposed to Sale, a Founder, who happen'd to be a zealous Royalist, bought it, and buried it under Ground, till the Restoration of _Charles_ II. to whom he made a Present of it; and this Prince caused it to be set up at _Charing-Cross_, where it still continues. When I see it, I always look upon it as an Image that has escap'd the Fury of the _Iconoclastes_.

Since, the Accession of the _Hanover_ Family to the Throne of _Great Britain_, _London_ is infinitely larger than it was. There's one intire Quarter goes by the Name of _Hanover_. The Parliament being apprehensive, that in Process of Time the Town would grow too big to support itself, pa.s.s'd an Act some Years ago for restraining the building on new Foundations; and if this had been done twenty Years ago, this City would nevertheless have been too large.

I say nothing to you of the other Squares, because my Design is only to give you a general Idea of _London_, and not a very exact Plan, that being a Business which I leave to some Traveller who is better instructed.

Besides, to tell you the plain Truth, I am quite weary of entertaining you with Towers and Walls. Therefore I shall only say a Word or two more as to Houses and Churches. The House of the Duke of _Montagu_, Son-in-Law to the late Duke of _Marlborough_, is the most considerable. The Apartments are large and well laid out, and the Cielings exceeding fine, particularly those of the great Stair-case and Salon, wherein the Story of _Phaethon_ is represented in a wonderful Manner. But all these fine Apartments are not furnish'd, and 'tis even said, that the Duke intends to lett his House to the Count _de Montijo_, the _Spanish_ Amba.s.sador.

Of the modern Churches that of St. _James_, which is the Parochial Church of the Court, is the finest, having a Portico before it, supported by Columns, after the Manner of the _Rotunda_ at _Rome_.

The Abby Church of _Westminster_, in which the Kings are crown'd and interred, is a great Fabric, which contains the Tombs of several Kings, and other Persons ill.u.s.trious either for their Birth or Merit. _Henry_ the VIIth's Chapel, wherein that wise King is interred with his Queen, is very magnificent, as is also the Tomb of the Dukes of _Newcastle_. That of the late Mr. _Craggs_, who was Secretary of State to King _George_ the Ist, is plain, but of a beautiful Contrivance: It represents that Minister in the _Grecian_ Manner, and leaning in a very n.o.ble Att.i.tude upon an Urn. The famous _St. Evremont_ has a Place here amongst the Men of Learning: The Representation of him is in Form of a large Medal, on which there is a short Inscription, denoting that this Mausoleum was erected for him by his Friend my Lord _Galloway_.

Amongst the Reliques which are still preserved in this Church, there is one, which for its Antiquity, I believe, has not its Equal, it being the Stone which served for _Jacob_'s Pillar, when he dreamt of that mysterious Ladder which reached up to Heaven. This precious Relique is very much neglected, and I cannot imagine how it came to be so abandoned by that pious King _James_ II. The _English_ would do well to make a Present of it to the Republic of _Venice_, where this Stone would quadrate exactly with the Piece of _Moses_'s Rock in St. _Mark_'s Church. The Cardinal _Cienfuegos_ shew'd me a Piece of it, when I was last at _Rome_: He told me, that he stole it in his Return from _Portugal_, where he had been Amba.s.sador, when he came to _London_ with a Commission from the Emperor to King _George_ I. He added, that it was the only Robbery he was ever guilty of in his Life; and that he should have been exceeding scrupulous of committing it, if this Stone had been as much honour'd in _England_ as it deserved; but that finding it neglected and despised, he could not help filching a Piece of it, which he was so fortunate as to strike off with a Key, at the very Nick of Time when the Keeper of it happen'd to be looking another way. I told him, that I did not think that he needed to have been so very scrupulous of this Theft; that I was persuaded, that if he had given the Keeper a Guinea at most, he might have had a much greater Piece; and that perhaps for a Trifle more he might have brought away the whole Stone. O Lord! cry'd the Cardinal, lifting up his Eyes to Heaven, I wish then I had purchased it.

In _Westminster_ Abbey I also saw the Stone Chair which _Edward_ I. that proud Conqueror of _Scotland_, caused to be brought from the Abbey of _Sc.o.o.n_ to that of _Westminster_, in order to give the _Scots_ to understand that they had no longer any Sovereign Power in their Country.

Ever since that Time the Kings of _England_ have made it a Rule to be seated in that Chair on the Day of their Coronation.

The Palace of _Westminster_, tho' formerly noted for the Residence of the Kings, and now for the a.s.sembly of the Parliament, is altogether plain.

The Hall where the Royal Feast is celebrated on the Coronation-Day, is one of the largest in _Europe_.

The Room where the Lords meet, which is called the House of Peers, is not much ornamented, nor is the King's Throne in it at all magnificent: They say, that a new Parliament-House is speedily to be erected; which is an Undertaking that deserves an able Hand to conduct it, the Parliament of _Great Britain_ being, next to the Dyet of the Empire, the most august Body in the Universe.

When the King goes to meet his Parliament, 'tis with all the Splendor of Royalty, and he appears there with the Crown on his Head, dress'd in Royal Robes. His Throne is at the Bottom of the Room, whereas that of the King of _France_, when he holds his Courts of Justice, is plac'd in a Corner, with his Peers on each Side of him. But here the Prince of _Wales_ alone, as Heir of the Crown, sits in the same Line with the King, and the Peers sit upon Benches by the Sides of the Room, and across it. I have not yet had the Honour to see his present Majesty in his Parliament; but I saw the late King his Father there; and I a.s.sure you, that the Sight of this august a.s.sembly inspired me with such Sentiments of Respect, as I don't know that I was ever impress'd with before. When I saw that King, the Best and most Just of Monarchs, come to give the Royal a.s.sent to what the Peers of the Kingdom, or rather the Fathers of the People, had agreed to, I thought I saw _Augustus_ in the Capitol approving the Decrees of the Senate, and the Senate applauding the Actions of the Emperor. Nevertheless the Parliament does not always applaud the King's Measures; but on the contrary makes a n.o.ble Stand against them when they tend to incroach upon the public Liberty. 'Tis true, that since the late Revolution, which depriv'd the _Stuart_ Family of the Throne, the Kings and their Parliaments have always agreed very well. Such is the Genius of the Nation, that a mild just King is sure of their Love and Respect, and he finds them as obedient to his Will, as a Tyrant King finds them reluctant.

All that find Fault with the _English_ for Disaffection to their Kings, have not duly read their History, or are fond of Slavery; and they who think a King of _Great Britain_ is to be pity'd because he is not absolute, have a false Notion of kingly Power. A Monarch of _England_ is capable of doing as much Good as any King in the World; but he can do no Wrong. And what can a King, if he be an honest Man, (pardon me this Expression, 'tis a Character not unworthy of a King) desire more? What needs there more to satisfy his Ambition? And is it possible, that a Man can be pitied, because 'tis not in his Power to make Millions of People miserable? For my part, I think that the _English_, who do not stand up for their Laws and Liberties, are altogether as criminal, as they who oppose the Will of their Sovereign in a State where Arbitrary Power is once established.

What I admire in the _English_, is not only the Firmness with which they plead for their Rights, but their Manner of doing it. In other Nations we see Deputies from Parliaments or States makeing Remonstrances to their Sovereign, which are studied and concerted. An _Englishman_, on the contrary, makes his upon the Spot: He first hearkens attentively to what the Court Party has to propose, and if he finds it detrimental to the State, he opposes it solidly; not with Expressions that are flourish'd and far-fetch'd, but strongly represents the Inconveniencies of the Thing, and enforces what he says by the Quotation of Laws and Precedents. A true _English_ n.o.bleman or Gentleman sacrifices every thing he has, for his Country: The Court and its Favours are not strong enough to captivate him: He can renounce both, when he thinks himself engaged in Honour to oppose the Court Measures in Parliament, and he lays down his Employments. A King has seldom the Pleasure of turning a Man out, and much less that of being solicited by the Person in Disgrace to restore him to Favour. An _Englishman_ who should write such Letters as _Bussi Rabutin_ wrote to _Lewis_ XIV. would, I believe, be as much despised in _England_, as _Bussi_ was esteemed in _France_. They that are out of Favour, are not shunn'd here as they are elsewhere; and they are so far from being abandoned by their Friends, that a n.o.bleman has often a greater Levee in his Disgrace than he had when in Favour. At the same Time I can't but think, that this Indifference for standing well or ill with the Court, is sometimes push'd too far. I have been told, _a propos_, that Queen _Catharine_ of _Portugal_, Wife of _Charles_ II. having forbad a certain Lady to come to Court, for having behav'd in a Manner that gave Offence, the Lady made her Answer, That she would obey her, and that she a.s.sured her Majesty, she would never give herself the Trouble to visit her again, 'till she could see her for Six-pence; by which she meant, when the Queen was dead, and exposed to View at _Westminster_.

His present Majesty having some Years ago forbad the D----ess of _Q----y_ to come to Court, for some disrespectful Behaviour, the Duke who was that Lady's Husband, and likewise disapproved her Conduct, immediately resign'd his Employment of V----e A----l of _Sc----d_, and absented himself from Court; but the D----ss and he were nevertheless seen as public Abroad as ever, and received abundance of Visits at Home. In short, a Man is only shunn'd here for being a Criminal, or a Coward.

There's no King serv'd with greater Respect than a King of _Great Britain_: Even the Peers minister to him upon the Knee. His Family is very numerous; his Guards, which are spruce, form a considerable Body; his Court is always very much throng'd; and in short, he wants nothing of the Honours of Royalty. Since the late Revolution, a King is not accountable for any Thing he does; and the Ministers alone are culpable, and responsible to the Parliament for any Thing that happens wrong.

The present King is not tall, but very well shap'd, has a stately Port, a very grave Countenance, and speaks little, but with great Propriety. The _French_, _English_, and the _Italian_ Languages are as familiar to him as the _German_. He reads a vast deal, and knows more than most do, who wear the Royal Diadem. Being not puffed up with Pageantry, and vain Grandeur, he does not give into superfluous Magnificence; but is an conomist, without Avarice; liberal, without being profuse; an Enemy to Vice, and a Friend to Virtue; sober and regular in his Ways and Manners; of a lively Temper, full of Spirit and Ambition, but submitting both the one and the other to Reason. He is active and laborious; understands Affairs, has a quick Apprehension, and a wonderful Memory. As Electoral Prince of _Hanover_, he gave Proofs of his Valour in the _Netherlands_ at the Battles of _Oudenarde_ and _Malplaquet_; as Prince of _Wales_, he shew'd that Adversity could not abate his Courage; and as King and Elector, he makes it evident, that he can both forgive an Injury, and forget it. His People are happy under his Reign. In _England_ his only Study is to maintain the Peace and Balance of _Europe_, to make Commerce flourish, and to render the Nation one of the most powerful in the World. At _Hanover_ he endeavours, by good Offices to his Subjects there, to alleviate their Sorrow for his Absence. He has not made any miserable since he begun his Reign; and if the Blessings of the People help to prolong the Days of their Kings, his _Britannic_ Majesty may hope for one of the longest of Reigns.

The Queen is a Princess in whose Person every thing that challenges Respect does at the same time command Affection. Her Presence is majestic, but accompany'd with Modesty and Good-nature; her Behaviour is the most courteous that can be; and her Wit, which is both solid and sparkling, is adorn'd with a thousand fine Accomplishments. She ever look'd upon all the trifling Amus.e.m.e.nts of her s.e.x with Disdain; and particularly never affected Ornament in Dress. The reading of choice Authors was always one of her greatest Pleasures; and her Majesty may be said to be one of the most learned Princesses in _Europe_. Having lost the Margrave of _Brandenburg Ans.p.a.ch_ her Father, when she was very young, and her Mother the Princess of _Saxe-Eysenach_ marrying again to _John George_ IV.

Elector of _Saxony_, she was left under the Guardianship of _Frederic_ Elector of _Brandenburg_, afterwards King of _Prussia_; by which means she spent Part of her early Days at the Court of _Berlin_, where the Electoress, who was Sister to the late King _George_ I. gave her a Tincture of her own Politeness, and inspired her with those sublime Sentiments, for which she was admired by all that approach'd her. The young Princess of _Ans.p.a.ch_ had at that time all the Charms of Nature; and the Fame of her Beauty attracted the Addresses of _Charles_ III. King of _Spain_, our august Emperor, who offered her his Hand and his Crown: But the Princess was so strongly attach'd to her Religion, that she refused both. G.o.d reserv'd her, no doubt, to make _Great Britain_ happy, and she married the Electoral Prince of _Brunswic-Lunenbourg_. Not many Years after this, she saw (but without any visible Emotion of Joy) her Father-in-Law and her Husband call'd to the Possession of one of the chief Thrones in the World. I was then at _Hanover_, and will venture to a.s.sure you, that the whole Electoral Family heard of this new Addition to their Greatness with a Moderation which render'd them worthy of their Fortune; and the Princess in particular demonstrated, that she was thoroughly satisfy'd in her Mind, that she could be happy without a Crown, and that both her Father-in-Law and her Husband were already Kings in her Eye, because they so highly deserved that t.i.tle. When she became Princess of _Wales_, she was so prudent as to keep fair with both the Parties which then divided the Royal Family. The late King had a sincere Esteem for her, and she in return paid him very great Respect. And[124]now that she is Queen, her Majesty contributes all that's in her Power to make the Subjects happy. The King lets her into a Share of Affairs, and leaves the Regency of the Kingdom to her in his Absence.

Among the Joys of their _Britannic_ Majesties we ought to reckon the numerous Family with which Heaven has bless'd 'em. It consists of two Princes and five Princesses. The eldest, who has the Style and t.i.tle of Prince of _Wales_, tho' he is not very tall, has a majestic Air, and when among the Courtiers, is easily distinguish'd to be the chief Personage. He is extremely civil, affable, good-natured and polite. It may be truly said of him, that he has the Soul of a King; for few Princes are more generous.

He loves Pleasures and Magnificence; he is gallant, has a penetrating Genius, talks very much, but always with Judgment, and to the Point. He is Master of several Languages, and understands History and Geography. He is perfect in all his Exercises, and really is not ignorant of any one Thing that a Prince of his Rank ought to know. The _Hanoverians_, among whom he was educated, ador'd him, and the _English_ seem altogether as fond of him.

The young Duke of _c.u.mberland_, second Son to their Majesties, resembles what the Painters represent to us by the Name of _Cupid_. He has Sense infinitely superior to his Age, is very dexterous, and an apt Scholar. He speaks _English_, _High-Dutch_, _Latin_, and _French_; and I think more than this cannot be expected of a Prince who is not yet full thirteen Years of Age[125].

Of the five Princesses I shall only mention the three eldest, the other two being as yet too young for a Character. The eldest, whom they call the _Princess Royal_[126], has an excellent Shape, and an Aspect of Modesty and Goodness, which wins the Hearts of all that see her. Her Temper is as engaging as her Physiognomy; and her Mind, which is disengaged from all Trifles, is more solid than might be expected from her Age. The reading of good Books, Conversation with Persons of Merit, and her Application to Music, are her chief Employments. She is extremely civil, and obligeing; and they say, she is generous and beneficent. 'Tis a Pleasure to see her on Horseback; she dances with a very good Grace, and really has all the Virtues becoming her high Birth.

The Princesses _Amelia_ and _Caroline_, were they not the most shining Beauties, have personal Charms, and such Qualities of the Mind as cannot fail in time of making some Prince or other happy.

With these Characters of the Royal Family I shall conclude my Letter, which is already long enough: I shall give you the rest of my Remarks without Delay. In the mean time be a.s.sured, that I am always with an inviolable Attachment, &c.

[Ill.u.s.tration]

LETTER LIV.

_SIR_, _London, May 4, 1733._

The last brought us to the Royal Family, and what relates to the Court.

The latter is more numerous than brilliant, if it be certain that Pleasures form the Splendor of a Court. Of these their Majesties don't seem to be fond, at least of those noisy Pleasures, that instead of unbending the Mind, which ought to be the Aim of all Pleasures, only serve to fatigue it.

'Tis very easy to obtain the Honour of being introduced to their Majesties, and the Royal Family, nothing more being necessary, than to send in one's Name to the Duke of _Grafton_, his Majesty's Lord Chamberlain, and my Lord _Grantham_, the Queen's Master of the Horse.

People go to the King's Levee, and the Queen's Drawing-Room, as they do in _France_. Their Majesties dine in Public only upon _Sundays_, when none eat with 'em but their Children. The Table is in Form of an oblong Square, in the Middle of which sit the King and Queen, with the Prince of _Wales_ on the Right, and the three eldest Princesses on the Left. The Service here is performed in the same Manner as it is in _France_. The Table is plac'd in the midst of a Hall, surrounded with Benches to the very Cieling, which are fill'd with an infinite Number of Spectators. The same Room serves also for the b.a.l.l.s, when there are any at Court. Three times a Week there's an Apartment here, called the _Drawing-Room_, which is open'd at Ten o'Clock at Night. About this Hour the Ladies repair to the said Apartment, which consists of three great Salons, made by the Direction of Queen _Anne_, which are the only tolerable Rooms in all St.

_James_'s Palace. The King comes to it attended not only by the Queen, who is led by the Prince of _Wales_, but by the Princesses her Daughters.

Their Majesties converse there for a few Moments with such Persons as they are pleased to distinguish; after which the Queen makes a profound Curtsy to the King, and goes to play for about an Hour with the Princess-Royal, and two Ladies, whom her Majesty singles out of the Company, and a little before Midnight their Majesties retire. Upon those Days that there's no Drawing-Room, the King and Queen are generally at the Opera, or the Play-house. In fine Weather they take the Air in St. _James_'s Park, or the Suburbs of _London_. In Summer-time their Majesties are for the most part at _Kensington_, _Windsor_, or _Hampton-Court_, the two last of which Palaces are beautiful. The first of these was built by the famous Cardinal _Wolsey_, the Favourite of King _Henry_ VIII. and before _Lewis_ XIV.

began to build; was reckon'd the finest Palace in _Europe_.

The King does not hunt much, but employs most of his Time with his Ministers, consulting the Welfare of his Dominions. Of these Sir ROBERT WALPOLE is the Princ.i.p.al, and he is the only Commoner in _Great Britain_ that is honoured with the Order of the Garter. This Minister, who is not less applauded by the Court Party, than he is censured by the contrary Faction, has the general Veneration and Esteem of all the Courts of _Europe_; where 'tis confess'd to be owing to his Direction that the Cabinet of St. _James_'s gives Motion at this Time to all _Europe_, and that he is the Soul of all Councils, all Deliberations, and all Resolutions. Sir _Robert Walpole_ seems, in my Opinion, to be attended with the Fate of my Lord Duke of _Marlborough_, who, tho' admir'd by the whole World, and even by those to whom he did most Mischief, was hardly valued in his own Country, which he crown'd with Glory and Prosperity. I shall say nothing to you at present of this Gentleman's private Character, because I am not yet well enough acquainted with it. As I have no Business with him, I see him pa.s.s along; and that's all. I want some Neutral Man (that is to say, one who is neither for nor against this Minister) that knows him well, and will let me into the Knowledge of him too. If I am so fortunate as to find out such a Person, I will impart to you such Lights as he shall give me. Mean time I hear him talk'd of in Public as one that understands the Const.i.tution of the Kingdom better than any Man in it, who thoroughly knows the Strength and Weakness of the State, and one whom nothing terrifies, nothing astonishes: And I may add, there's no Man more bold and enterprizing. He perfectly knows his Countrymen, and has the true Art of Government: And no Body speaks with more Eloquence in Parliament; where whatever he proposes seldom fails of being pa.s.s'd; and the Lower-house is, as one may say, determined by him.

His greatest Opponents in Parliament are Mr. _P----y_ in the House of Commons, and my Lord _St----d_ in the House of Peers. This Lord, you know, was for a long time Amba.s.sador from Queen _Anne_ to the Court of _Berlin_, and afterwards to the States General; and that it was he that sign'd the Treaty of Peace at _Utrecht_: He was a Member of the Privy Council when the Queen died; but King _George_ I. did not think fit continue him; at which his Lordship being disgusted, absented from Court, and became in Parliament the Censor of the Ministers. After the Death of King _George_ I. the Earl paid his Respects to their present Majesties, who received him with very great Marks of Distinction; which however did not hinder his constant Opposition to the Measures of the Court: Yet it cannot be deny'd that his Lordship behav'd with very great Prudence in the Changes that happened upon the Accession of the _Brunswic_ Family to the Throne. This Lord, speaking to me one Day of those Alterations, in the Voyage which I made hither in 1728, told me, that if he had been rul'd by the Duke of _Ormond_, he would have been in the same miserable Circ.u.mstances as that Duke. "He did all he could, _said he_, to persuade me to quit the Kingdom with him; but he was so far from decoying me away, that I made use of all the Rhetoric I was Master of, to persuade him to stay at home, because we had neither of us done any thing but by Order of the Queen our Mistress; that therefore we had nothing to fear, and that the worst that could happen to us would be a Censure. But the Duke had such a Terror upon him, that all these Arguments were not powerful enough to encourage him; and but a few Hours before he went off, he came and conjured me to leave the Kingdom with him. I made him this Answer: _I have nothing to reproach myself with_, my Lord, _I have obeyed the Queen, and I have too high an Opinion of the Justice of my Country, and too great a Confidence in the Equity of the King, to fear any Thing_. The Answer which the Duke made me was, _Well then_, my Lord, _I must take the same Farewel of you as the_ Prince of Orange _did of_ Count Egmont. FAREWEL, COUNT WITHOUT A HEAD. To which I replied, FAREWEL, DUKE WITHOUT A DUCHY. The Event has shewn, that I was a better Prophet than the Duke of _Ormond_: For I enjoy my Estate in Peace, whereas what he had is taken from him." In the same Conversation the Earl talked a great deal to me of their Majesties, and in Terms of the profoundest Respect. He expressed an infinite Value for the King, who when Prince of _Wales_, said he, always treated him with very great Regard and Goodness. Nevertheless this Lord seldom appears at Court: He spends the Summer in the Country, and the Winter at _London_, where once a Week he has an a.s.sembly; but in other respects he lives very retired, and at no great Expence.

The Duke of _Newcastle_ is Secretary of State. This n.o.bleman is extremely civil, very rich, and lives grand. He has the Province of foreign Affairs, in Conjunction with my Lord _Harrington_, who, when he was only Colonel _Stanhope_, gain'd Reputation as Amba.s.sador in _Spain_, and at the Congress of _Soissons_. I knew this Minister at _Madrid_ in 1719, and can vouch for him, that he is one of the worthiest and soberest Men in the World. He is good-natur'd, modest, generous, and mighty sincere. He is shy of new Acquaintance, but when once a Man knows him, the better he will like him.