At the Foot of the _Carthusians_-house, which stands on a very high Hill, is the Palace and Garden of the _Favorita_, belonging to the Elector.

_Francis-Lotharius de Schonborn_, caused this House to be erected; the Gardens of which are not extraordinary large, and may be call'd a Labyrinth of Grottos, Cascades, Summer-houses and Statues; but the Whole are heap'd, as it were, one upon another, and ranged with very little Fancy. There's a Salon, accompanied with six Pavilions, detach'd from it, disposed in such a manner, that from each Pavilion there's a Prospect of the _Rhine_, the _Main_, and of all the fine Scenes of the Country on the other Side of those Rivers.

For the rest, 'tis a very dull City, as are almost all the Cities subject to the Ecclesiastical Princes. Nevertheless, there's a great Number of Gentry here, but they scarce ever visit one another, except in Ceremony.

The Men rarely visit the Ladies, and seem, to my Mind, to be fondest of the Bottle. One of the chief Diversions of the Inhabitants of _Mentz_ is to go all the Summer long to some neighbouring Places where they use the Waters; such as _Wisbade_, _Schwalbach_ and _Schlangenbadt_. And while these Waters are in Season, _Mentz_, _Francfort_, _Darmstadt_, and all the neighbouring Towns, look as if they were quite forsaken.

I was some Years ago at SCHWALBACH, and was very merry there. 'Tis a little Town, between the Hills, three Leagues from _Mentz_, and belongs to the Landgrave of _Hesse-Rhinfelds_. The Waters which are drank there, very much resemble those of _Spa_ in Taste; but, I think, they are stronger. I am sure, that if _Schwalbach_ was so happy as to be frequented for the sake of its Waters, by two or three _English_ Gentlemen of Distinction, it would make a Fortune out of the People of that Country, and bear away the Purse from _Spa_. The Method of taking those Waters is altogether the same as at _Spa_; and they observe the same Regimen, but with much greater Mirth. For here is a great Room, where every body meets without Distinction of Persons, and where they play at all Sorts of Games; and it's surrounded too with Shops, in which there are a thousand Sorts of fine Toys. Here is commonly a Ball, and sometimes a _German_ Comedy, which really, I think, is but indifferent; and here are often great Feasts, at which every one pays their Quota. But there are generally some Princes here to take the Waters, who make Entertainments for the Gentry.

SCHLANGENBADT, which is a League from _Schwalbach_, is a Place that consists properly of two great Houses, one belonging to the Elector of _Mentz_, and the other to the Landgrave of _Hesse Darmstadt_. Here they use the Hot Baths, which are extremely wholesome for relaxing the Nerves, and for the Stone. Barren Women also frequent this Place; but if they don't take very great Care of themselves, they generally return pregnant.

This, Sir, is all the Account I can give you of _Mentz_, and its Neighbourhood. Having done all my Business here, I am making ready to be gone in a few Days. I propose to go back the same Way that I came, and as I fall down the _Rhine_, I hope in two Days to be at _Cologne_, from whence I shall proceed thro' _Dusseldorff_ towards _Cleves_. There I hope to have a Letter from you, than which nothing can be more welcome. I am, _&c._

[Ill.u.s.tration]

LETTER XLIX.

_SIR_, _Cleves, Sept. 1, 1732._

At my Return to _Cologne_, I went to see the Castle or Palace of BENSBERG, belonging to the Elector _Palatine_, in the Country of _Berg_, three Leagues from the _Rhine_, which River I pa.s.sed over a flying Bridge, between _Cologne_ and _Duitz_. This House is worth seeing. 'Twas founded by Order of the Elector _John-William_, who was a Prince in every Thing magnificent, and sent for the most able Workmen from _Italy_ to build it.

All this great Structure is built of very hard Stone. The Ornaments, such as the Frises and Architraves, are of a Kind of grey Marble, which they dig out of neighbouring Quarries. The Apartments are large, very well decorated, and adorned with the finest Paintings; and they have a Prospect of a vast Length of Country, which offers a Variety of grand and n.o.ble Scenes to View.

From this House I went to DUSSELDORFF, the Capital of the Duchy of _Berg_, belonging to the Elector _Palatine_. This City stands in the midst of a fine fruitful Plain, five Leagues from _Cologne_. The _Rhine_ washes its Walls, and runs at the Town with such Violence, that they have been obliged to make great Works to break the Current. _Dusseldorff_ is but a small Place. The late Elector _John-William_, who resided in it, had undertaken to aggrandize it with an additional Quarter, which they call the _New-Town_; but that Prince's Death, and the Absence of the Court, put a Stop to the Buildings. The present Elector is fortifying this Place; but 'tis carried on so slowly, that 'twill take up a great deal of Time to finish it.

The Elector's Castle or Palace is ancient, and has nothing remarkable, but a Gallery of Pictures; which Gallery consists of five great Divisions or Salons, three whereof are much bigger than the other two. The Pictures in the first Room are all by the Hand of _Rubens_. That of the _Last Day of Judgment_ is an admirable Piece, and one of the best that was ever done by that excellent Painter. They say he painted it for the Duke _Wolffgang de Neubourg_, in Acknowledgment for that Prince's having taken him out of _Spain_, where _Rubens_ was going to be arrested by the Holy Office. The Pictures in the second Room are all done by several _Flemish_ Masters, but most of 'em by _Van Dyck_. The third Room, which is the biggest, contains Pictures by the most skilful _Italian_ Masters. The fourth is adorned with the Works of the Chevalier _Van der Werf_, a _Dutch_ Painter, who died lately at the _Hague_, having had the Honour to see some of his Pictures sold for a thousand gold Ducats the Piece. The Elector _John-William_ gave him a Pension of six thousand Florins, besides paying him two thousand Florins for each Picture. No _Flemish_ Painter excelled him in Designing, or had a better Hand at mixing of Colours. His Painting is so fine, and the Colouring so lively, and so well fansied, that no Enamel is more beautiful. Among his Works, the Connoisseurs admire _the Life and Pa.s.sion of our Saviour_; Diana _in the Bath_, a Piece for which the Elector _John-William_ paid twenty thousand Florins; and the Picture of _Mary-Anne_ of _Medicis_, that Elector's Wife, which Princess is represented with her Court-Ladies in the Habit of the Vestal Virgins. The fifth and last Room, which is the most magnificent, contains select Pieces by Masters of the first Rank; as _Raphael_, _Julius Romain_, _Peter di Cortona_, _Guido_, _t.i.tian_, _Paul Veronese_, _Tintoret_, _Correggio_, _Albano_, the _Caracchis_, _Joseph Pin_, _Paul Rubens_, _Van Dyck_, _Reimbrants_, and many others. But that which no less attracts the Curious in another Taste, is the Abundance and Variety of other Things that are distributed up and down the several Rooms; as Figures of Bra.s.s, of the utmost Perfection, copy'd, for most part, from the finest Antiques, placed upon beautiful Tables of _Florence_; portable Cabinets, adorned with excellent Miniature, or inlaid Work; and, in short, an infinite Number of other Things, that are very much to be admired, and render this Gallery truly magnificent.

Under these Rooms there's another Gallery, full of Statues of Marble and Plaister, according to the Model of all the celebrated Statues of _Rome_ and _Florence_; the Moulds of which were collected by the Elector _John-William_, with very great Care and Expence.

In the Market-place opposite to the Palace, is that Elector's Equestrian Statue, who is represented in Armour on Horseback, with the Electoral Bonnet on his Head. But this Monument, which is of Bra.s.s, is not answerable to the Cost of it: For the Horse is represented in a walking Pace, with his Tail dragging nine Inches on the Ground, which makes a very wretched Figure; tho' 'tis said, that the Man who cast this Statue, took a Horse which the Elector had for his Model. Possibly he might have a fine Mane and Tail, but this is what does not appear in Bra.s.s. The whole Monument is erected on a Pedestal of grey Marble, very solid, and even without any Inscription or Ornaments. Nevertheless, _John-William_ of _Neubourg_, the Elector _Palatine_, deserved as much as any Prince in the World, to have his Virtues transmitted to Posterity by some Inscription.

He was magnificent, generous, liberal, a Protector of the Arts and Sciences: His Court and his Disburs.e.m.e.nts were like those of a King; his Good-nature render'd him amiable; he was the Delight of his Courtiers, and the Darling of his Subjects.

This great Prince lived at a Time when _Germany_ had four other Princes, who were as great Patrons of the Arts and Sciences as himself; _viz._ _Frederic-Augustus_ King of _Poland_, _Frederic_ King of _Prussia_, _Antony-Ulric_ Duke of _Brunswic-Lunenbourg_, and _Charles_ Landgrave of _Hesse Ca.s.sel_; of all which Princes, the only one that survives is the King of[99] _Poland_, the rest having no Life but in History, where they are sure of Immortality; for, besides the Monuments they have left of their Grandeur, Men of Learning will not fail to transmit their Glory to the latest Posterity.

The present Elector _Palatine_ having fixed his Residence at _Manheim_, there's a Regency at _Dusseldorff_, of which the Count _de Schasberg_ is the President. The Country of _Berg_, and that of _Juliers_, depending on it, are governed by States, without whose Consent the Sovereign cannot lay any Taxes. These Countries bring in a Million of Crowns to the Elector.

All Religions are tolerated here, and every Communion has its particular Churches; but the Catholics only are admitted to the Civil Employments.

The Reverend Fathers the Jesuits have a fine Church, and a beautiful Convent here. There's a Chapel without the _Cologne_ Gate, which is worth seeing. 'Tis built after the Model of the _Santa Casa_ of _Loretto_, and adorned with very fine Paintings. 'Twas founded by the Electress, Wife of _John-William_, to the Honour of the most Holy Virgin.

Tho' the Court is no longer at _Dusseldorff_, yet here is very good Company, and the Gentry are very sociable and friendly to Foreigners.

There are amiable and deserving Ladies here, particularly Madame _de Speik_, whose Husband is a Major-General. She would be very fit to adorn a Court.

I went from _Dusseldorff_ to KEISERSWERDT, formerly a Place of Importance, which held out a destructive Siege, but is now wholly dismantled. From thence I proceeded to DUISBOURG, a Town in the Duchy of _Cleves_, at the Extremity of a Forest, where they catch wild Horses, which are small, but indefatigable and very serviceable. The City of _Duisbourg_ is only remarkable for its University. The Country betwixt this Town and _Wesel_, is all a Plain, and a very gravelly Soil, yet produces every thing that's good.

After having crossed the Rivers of _Roer_ and _Lippe_ in the Ferry-boats, I came to WESEL, a strong Place of the Duchy of _Cleves_, belonging to the King of _Prussia_: 'Tis regularly fortify'd, and has a very good Citadel towards the _Rhine_. The late King of _Prussia_, _Frederic_ I. was the first that set about fortifying of _Wesel_; and his Son, King _Frederic-William_, has caused those Works to be carried on and finished.

M. _Bot_, now a General Officer in _Saxony_, had the Direction of those Works in the first Place; after which, the Care of them was committed to M. _Walrave_, a Colonel Engineer. They have both contributed to render _Wesel_ one of the strongest Places in _Germany_. Nothing in this Town more particularly deserves a Traveller's Attention, than the _Berlin_ Gate, of which M. _Bot_ drew the Model: I never saw any Thing finer, or more perfect of the Kind. The a.r.s.enal also is worth seeing, and is extremely well furnished with all Necessaries, whether of Ordnance or Ammunition.

In my Way from _Wesel_ to this Town, I came to SANTEN, formerly a famous City, but now very much decay'd. The Catholic Church is a beautiful Structure, and has a miraculous Image of the most Holy Virgin, to which the Natives pay great Devotion.

'Tis five Leagues from _Santen_ to CLEVES, thro' one continued Range of[100] Walks. The Avenue that leads to _Cleves_ is magnificent. This Town is small, but very pleasant, and well built. The King's Palace is ancient, yet it has fine Apartments; and among the rest, a magnificent Hall.

There's nothing surely in Nature, completer and finer than a View of these Apartments. _Lewis_ Duke of _Burgundy_, Grandson to _Lewis the Great_, coming with his Army to _Cleves_ in 1702, thought the Situation of the Place so charming, that he was heard to say, more than once, That he wish'd _Versailles_ was as well situate.

_Cleves_ is the Seat of the Regency of this Duchy, the President of which is M. _de Borck_, a Gentleman of Quality and Merit, who acquits himself of his Office with a great Share of Integrity and Application, is very civil, and a Gentleman of a fine Presence.

There are several good Families in this City, particularly those of the Chancellor _de Becker_, a Gentleman of distinguished Merit, who makes very handsome Entertainments, and lives with great Splendor; and of the Baroness _de Blaspiel_, a Lady of Birth and Merit. She was Maid of Honour to the Queen of _Prussia_, who honoured her with her Confidence; and never was a Favourite more worthy of it; for she always preserved the same Respect for her Mistress, and the same Regard for all Mankind. The whole Court of _Berlin_ thought her an Ornament, when it pleased the King to remove her from Court, by banishing M. _de Blaspiel_, who was one of his Ministers, to his Estate in this Province, where he died, and having no Children, left his Wife Heiress of a very considerable Estate. I don't know but this Lady thinks herself as happy in this Retirement, as she was at Court: All the Country respects her; and one time, when the King came hither, his Majesty, together with the Prince Royal, did her the Honour to come and dine with her, and gave her Tokens of the sincerest Esteem. I was formerly very well acquainted with Madame _de Blaspiel_ at Court, and had Opportunity to know the Goodness of her Temper thoroughly, which is what has induced me to give you a more particular Account of her, than of other Persons of Distinction in this City, with whom I was not so well acquainted. Farewel, my dear Friend, I am afraid I shall not see you again so soon as I expected; but whenever that happens, I shall have a great many Facts to tell you, which 'tis not always safe to commit to a Letter.

I kiss your Hand, and am, _&c._

[Ill.u.s.tration]

LETTER L.

_SIR_, _Amsterdam, Nov. 29, 1732._

Instead of excusing myself for my late Silence, I confess to you, that had it not been for the obliging Reproaches you make me upon that Account, I should not have entertained you with any more of my Travels. Not that I thought _Holland_ did not deserve your Attention as much as any other Country in the World, but because, as I found I had nothing new to send you, I thought it best not to surfeit you with the Repet.i.tion of what others before me have said much better. But as you seem to think these Arguments not sufficient, I will endeavour to satisfy you in the best manner I can; and you are a Gentleman of too good Sense to expect more.

From _Cleves_ I went to NIMEGUEN, a Town in the Province of _Guelderland_, and the Bulwark of the Seven United Provinces, towards the Dominions of _Prussia_; from which 'tis but two Leagues distant. This Place stands on the Side of a Hill on the Banks of the _Vahal_, a River which comes out of the _Rhine_, and falls into the _Maese_, near the Town of _Dort_ or _Dordrecht_. The _French_, after eight Days Siege, took it in 1672, at the Time when the Republic seem'd ready to sink under the Weight of their Arms. Since that Time it has been very much fortify'd; so that 'tis now a Place of Consequence. This Town is famous for the Peace which was sign'd here in 1678, between _France_ and the States General; and in the next Year, between the Emperor, _Spain_, the Princes of _Germany_, and _France_. It has no remarkable Edifice. From one of its Bastions, which is much higher than the rest of the Fortifications, there's a Prospect of a great Tract of Country beyond the _Vahal_; which is one of the finest Views in the World, and the most agreeable Sight that _Nimeguen_ affords.

After having crossed the _Vahal_ over a flying Bridge, I travelled four or five Leagues upon a very narrow crooked Dike, which in rainy Weather is very much broke. It seems as if it was made for the Destruction both of Coaches and Pa.s.sengers; for if the Coachman be ever so little aukward, or the Horses skittish, a Man is in Danger of breaking his Neck, the rather, because the common Caravans, or Stage-Coaches in _Holland_, are so made, that a little Matter turns 'em topsy-turvy; so that one would imagine the Inventor of 'em studied to contrive a Vehicle, the most uneasy, and the most dangerous, that could be to the Lives of Mankind. Suppose to yourself, a cursed high Waggon, which you get up to by an Iron Step, placed between the wheels, which are hardly two Feet from one another. The Body of the Caravan is covered with Hoops, in Form of a Cradle, spread over with an Oil-cloth, and so low, that the least Shock jolts one's Head against the Roof. This infernal Machine, invented, no doubt, for the Entrance of _Proserpine_ into h.e.l.l, instead of a Thill, has a Hook, by which the Coachman, who is commonly drunk, guides the Horses, by placing one Foot on it, while be rests the other against the Crupper of one of his Horses, which almost touch the Caravan. No less than eight People are stow'd in these horrible Break-necks, which, to compleat the Abomination, makes such a Rattle as is perfectly stunning to all the Pa.s.sengers.

'Twas in one of these pretty Stage-Coaches that I came very much jaded to RHENEN, a little Town on an Arm of the _Rhine_, which has for a long time been the Residence of the Family of the unfortunate _Frederic_ Elector _Palatine_, who was chose King of _Bohemia_. That Prince caused a House to be built there, which now belongs to the King of _Great Britain_, as Heir to the Electress _Sophia_ his Grandmother, the Daughter of the said _Frederic_, by _Elizabeth_ Princess of _England_; but all the Use which the King makes of this House, is for the Accommodation of his Equipage in his Journies to and from _Hanover_.

The Road from _Rhenen_ to _Utrecbt_ is like the Sands of _Libya_; I mean that which the Caravans take in the rainy Season; for in fine Weather they go through a Plain, the Soil of which is extremely clayish, and by consequence, not pa.s.sable when it has rain'd.

As disagreeable as the Country is, through which I pa.s.sed, yet there are several fine Country Houses, of which that belonging to the Earls of _Athlone_, whose Ancestor was General of the _Dutch_ Infantry, and made a Peer of _Great Britain_ by King _William_ III. is one of the most considerable: But it is inferior to ZEIST, a Palace belonging to the Count of _Na.s.sau_, Son of the late Mons. _d'Odyck_, distinguished in the Republic for his Birth and Employments, his Ability in Business, and his Magnificence. This House is, in my Opinion, one of the finest in the Seven Provinces, and has most of the Air of a n.o.bleman's Palace. It has fine Gardens, and stately Avenues. _Lewis_ XIV. resided in it at the Time when that Monarch, like an impetuous Torrent, came to ravage the Republic. The Count _de Na.s.sau-Zeist_ had afterwards the Honour to see at the same Place _Frederic_ I. King of _Prussia_, whose Presence Was undoubtedly more agreeable to him, because it was accompanied with the Peace, and because that Prince only drew his Sword for the Defence of the Republic, and its Allies.

The Country Houses in general, which are situate in the Provinces of _Utrecht_, _Guelderland_ and _Over-yssel_, have much more the Appearance of Palaces than those in _Holland_; where Land is so dear, that they can only make Models of Houses and Gardens; which, if they were executed, would not want for Magnificence.

The Neighbourhood of _Utrecht_ is charming: A large fine Avenue leads to the City, at the Entrance of which, on the Left-hand, is the Mall, which _Lewis_ XIV. so admir'd upon Account of its Walks, that he wish'd he could transport them to _Versailles_, and ordered his Troops not to cut down the Trees.

UTRECHT, as to its Outside, seems very ancient. I fansy that the Walls of _Jericho_, which fell at the Sound of the dreadful Trumpets of _Israel_, were not unlike the Walls of this City; and its Inhabitants, probably, did not think them a whit stronger, because they were so much in haste to carry their Keys to the King of _France_, notwithstanding the Offers made to them by the Prince of _Orange_, to defend the Place. _Lewis_ XIV.

entered this City with all the Pomp of a Conqueror; but he made a very short Stay here, which, they say, was owing to a Remark made to him, That in a great Part of the Town, the meaner Sort of People lived under Ground; and that it would be an easy Matter for those subterraneous Inhabitants to place Gunpowder in those Cellars, and blow them up at the time that his Majesty came by. If this Circ.u.mstance is true, they who possessed the King with this Jealousy were unacquainted with the _Dutch_, who, 'tis possible, might have had no Respect for the Person of the King, in a Tumult, or in a Battle; but when they had received him into their Town, he had nothing to fear, because Treachery and Dissimulation are no Parts of their Character.

The Streets of _Utrecht_ are s.p.a.cious and very airy, its Houses pleasant and well built. A great many Houses have been built here since the Congress for that Peace, which put an End to the War for the Succession to _Charles_ II. King of _Spain_. This City, next to the _Hague_, is the most agreeable for Persons of Quality, of whom here's a great Number, as well as of other Persons, who having got Fortunes by Trade, retire hither for the peaceable Enjoyment of what they have acquir'd.

The great Church which was formerly the Metropolis, still preserves its Chapter, into which Persons need no other Proofs nor Vocation for Admittance than Money, these Prebends being bought and sold like Companies of Dragoons. The Court of _Rome_ always nominates the Archbishop, who commonly resides at _Amsterdam_. I think the Person who enjoys this[101]Dignity now, is a Native of this City, but 'tis probable he has no View to a Cardinal's Cap, he being a declared _Jansenist_. The _Carthusians_ who retired from _France_ under the specious Pretext of securing their Consciences from Oppression, are settled in his Diocese, where they live in two separate Convents not very far from _Utrecht_, and are very zealous Distributers of the Writings published in _France_, about the Religious Differences. They had acquired the Esteem of the Protestants, who did not think they differ'd very widely from their Communion; but since they endeavour to make the Sieur _Paris_ pa.s.s for a Saint, I know not whether they will not lose the good Opinion that has been conceiv'd of 'em. For in this Country, they have no great Value for these Favourites of the Court of Heaven, and much less for those who increase the Number of 'em. Be this as it will, 'tis allow'd by every body, even by the most zealous _Roman_ Catholics, that setting aside their Religious Sentiments, there's no Fault to be found with their Morals and Behaviour, and that they live as regularly as they did perhaps in the Convent which they have abandoned.

The Town-house has nothing in it that is magnificent, at least if one may believe those who have seen it; for I had not the Curiosity to examine it: Nor is there any Edifice of Consequence in the Town. Their Dwellings are neat, but not large, which is the Reason that during the Congress the Amba.s.sadors had very scanty Lodgings, tho' it was not for want of Money, insomuch that several of 'em might have purchased the Houses they lived in, with the Money they paid for the Rent of their Apartments, during the Course of their Ministerial Residence. Speaking of this Congress, puts me in Mind of what certain Satirical Politicians said concerning the Three Treaties of Peace that had been concluded successively in the Dominions of the Republic. _Nimeguen_, said they, signified NEIM-WEG (_Take all_), _Reiswick_, REIS-WEG (_Pluck up all_), and _Utrecht_, AUSSER RECHT (_Witbout Right_). If every Thing be fairly examin'd, all this perhaps may be true enough, but the Laughers would not be on the Side of the Allies.

I made use of the Vessel that goes and comes Three times a Day from _Utrecht_ to _Amsterdam_, which is not only the most commodious, but the best regulated, and the cheapest Pa.s.sage in _Europe_. One knows to a Minute when it goes off, and within one Quarter of an Hour that it gets into Port. If you agree for the _Rous_ or Cabin, one is alone, or with what Company you please. I thought the Vessel in which I came to _Utrecht_, so much like a moving Dungeon that I was as glad when I came out of it, as a Prisoner, when he is set at Liberty. The Ca.n.a.l which carried me to _Amsterdam_ presents a thousand agreeable Objects to View, being diversified all the Way with fine Country-houses, magnificent Gardens, Meadows and Villages.

After having admired every Thing that proves the Wealth of the Inhabitants, I am arrived at AMSTERDAM, that modern _Tyre_, the Mistress of Commerce, the Warehouse of the World, and one of the finest, greatest, and most wealthy Cities in _Europe_. It contains both sacred and profane Edifices, which are magnificent; but at the same Time (for I speak freely) retains I know not what Air of the Cit, which one does not meet with in the Buildings of _Venice_ and _Genoa_, which are of a sublimer Taste, because the n.o.bility are the Governors. The Things which may be said to be truly great and n.o.ble at _Amsterdam_, are its Ramparts faced with Bricks, and the broad and deep Ditches with which 'tis encompa.s.sed.

_Amsterdam_ is the only Town in the World which may be compared in any measure to _Venice_. For tho' 'tis not built as _Venice_ is, in the midst of the Sea, it stands as that does upon Piles. Like _Venice_ it consists of a vast Number of Islands, and its princ.i.p.al Streets have Ca.n.a.ls, with the Adventage of s.p.a.cious Kays at their Doors, fenc'd with Trees; whereas at _Venice_, the Water is only pent in by the Houses. That I take to be all the Resemblance there is between these two Rivals in Commerce; for as to the Beauty of the Structures, there is no Comparison; one _Ca.n.a.l Grande_, and one _Ca.n.a.l Reggio_, being worth more in this respect than all _Amsterdam_. There are Palaces, and here are Houses, which are neat, genteel and pleasant, without the Rules of Architecture, and built of Brick. Heretofore the _Amsterdammers_ Manner of Building was very extraordinary. Most of the old Houses that are yet in Being, stand upon Stilts, which I explain thus: The Front of the first Floor, upon the Ground, is commonly all Windows, which are separated by wooden Pillars that support all the Stone-work of the other Floors, which, happy for them, is very slight; for there's seldom a Wall more than two Bricks in Thickness, and the Ceilings are nothing but Boards, so that the People in the first Floor have the Pleasure to know, that every Word they say is overheard in the second. I don't criticize the Manner of the Distribution of their Rooms; tho', to be plain, their Architects know no more of this Matter than they do how to carry up the Chimnies, which are almost all of them smoaky. 'Tis true, that the Inhabitants are not very much incommoded by it, and that they might even do without them[102]. For the Women warm themselves with a Turf all Day long, which they put into a little earthen Pan, and this into a wooden Stove, with Holes bor'd in it, which they keep under their Petticoats, and sit over it, as a Hen broodeth over her Chicken. The Men are always within Doors, dressed in a Night-gown lined with Flannel, under which they are Twaddled in three or four thick Waistcoats: And if the Weather be cold, they also make use of such a Stove as the Women do, or else warm themselves in the Kitchen, where there is seldom Bustle enough to prevent their creeping to the Chimney-corner; and I would venture a Wager, that there are many substantial People here who don't boil the Pot above once a Week: For there's no Nation in the World that feeds worse than the _Dutch_, and particularly the _Amsterdammers_, b.u.t.ter, Milk, Cheese, and Salt-fish, being their common Diet.