The Youth here don't seem to be so hair-brain'd as they are elsewhere: I don't know whether they are really wiser, but however they seem to be so in Public. Were I to advise a Father of a Family, it should be to send his Children to the University here, than which I question whether there's a better in _Europe_, as well with regard to the Masters of the Exercises, as to the Care taken of the Youth, who are boarded, dieted and instructed in all the Sciences and Exercises, and divided into two Cla.s.ses; of which the one only studies the Law, and therefore does not pay so much as the other; but they must be all Gentlemen. They are only allow'd to go abroad on certain Days of the Week; but then they may appear at Court, and go where they please, except to Houses of Gaming.

The Out-parts of TURIN are infinitely pleasant. The Country is adorned with a great many pretty _Ca.s.sines_ or Pleasure-Houses, which are only separated by Meadows, that are constantly water'd by a Number of little Brooks. I take the Air every Day upon the _Esplanade_, between the City and the Citadel, where there are fine Walks, and one often meets with very pretty Women. The Blood here is perfectly good, and all the _Piedmontese_ Ladies have a great deal of Life and Spirit. I am very sorry to leave them, but the Misfortune is unavoidable, and Haste presses me to be gone.

I propose to be in ten or twelve Days at _Lyons_, if I don't stay at _Chamberry_; but this you will know by my next Letter. Don't fail to write to me at _Paris_, and believe me to be, _&c._

[Ill.u.s.tration]

LETTER x.x.xVII.

_SIR_, _Lyons, March 2, 1732._

Tho' I had pa.s.s'd Mount _Cenis_ twice before, and travers'd _Savoy_, yet I thought the Pa.s.sage of the _Alps_ as disagreeable as ever; and am heartily glad to find myself in this City, which is better than all _Savoy_ put together.

From _Turin_ I went and lay at LA NOVALAISE. I first pa.s.s'd by the Castle of _Rivoli_, which stands on an Eminence, and to which there's an Avenue from _Turin_ in a strait Line of three Leagues in Length. Then I travell'd thro' SUSA, which, by the way, is a very dirty Town, upon the Banks of a River form'd by Torrents from the neighbouring Mountains, which seem, as it were, to bury _Susa_ alive. This City, and the Valley in which 'tis built, are commanded by the Fort DE LA BRUNETTE, an important Place, which King _Victor Amedeus_ caus'd to be erected for the Defence of _Piedmont_.

Nature and Art have alike contributed to fortify it. 'Tis provided with a good Garison, and all Necessaries to sustain a Siege; and if it had been built in the Time of _Lewis_ XIII. I doubt whether that King, and his Minister the Cardinal _de Richelieu_, would so easily have pa.s.sed the Mountains.

LA NOVALAISE is a sorry Town, with a wretched Inn, which is the more disagreeable, because Strangers are oblig'd to stop there to unload their Effects, and put them on the Backs of Mules to carry them to the other Side of the Mountain. I was carried over it in a matted Elbow-chair by four Men, who relieved one another at proper Distances, and often took me upon their Shoulders; so that if I had been ever so little given to Chimeras, I should have fansied myself a Pope.

At the Top of the Mountain is a[35]Lake, and also an Hospital, which I thought made but a poor Appearance. Pilgrims are there entertain'd, and other Foot Pa.s.sengers, for three Days; and there are two Priests to receive the Pa.s.sengers, and to serve the Church. This is a very laudable Foundation in a sorry wretched Country, where, notwithstanding this Provision, People are often found dead in the Snow. Those poor Reverends may boast, that they live in one of the saddest Places in the World, their greatest Amus.e.m.e.nt for nine Months in the Year, being to see the Snow fall, and to blow their Fingers. The Descent from Mount _Cenis_ on the Side of _Savoy_ is by much the[36] easiest, where in the Winter-time People have the Pleasure of rolling down in a Sled, which the Country People call _se faire rama.s.ser_. This Way of travelling is very commodious and diverting, and so swift, that an Arrow from a Cross-bow does not fly faster. I knew an _English_ Gentleman that stay'd a Week together at _Lanebourg_, and who, after he had come down this Mountain, went up again and again, purely for the Pleasure of _se faire rama.s.ser_.

LANEBOURG and its Inn are no better than _La Novalaise_; but one is oblig'd to stop again here for fresh Horses. Those who don't travel Post, and make use of the Carriers of _Turin_ or _Chamberry_, are seldom put to this Trouble, because most of these People have Pack-horses on both Sides the Mountain, and have nothing to do but to send their Baggage away, which is very quickly loaded. From _Lanebourg_ to _Chamberry_ all the Road is bury'd, as it were, by Rocks and Mountains, and frightful Precipices: There are Rails indeed, but not strong enough to stop a Carriage: I saw a Cart drawn by four Horses tumble down one of those Precipices, by which the Horses were kill'd, and the Cart with its whole Lading, which consisted of Porcelain and Gla.s.s Wares belonging to the Prince of _Carignan_, broke in a thousand Pieces: The Carrier, tho' he was not at all to blame, drew out his Knife in order to stab himself, and wou'd actually have done it, if my Postilion and other People had not hinder'd him.

I pa.s.s'd thro' several little Towns in my Way hither, that are not worth mentioning; ST. JOHN DE MAURIENNE is the chief, because 'tis the See of a Bishop, and the Capital of a Province of that Name; 'tis a very antient County, and the first Inheritance of the Princes of _Savoy_; this Valley extends from the _Alps_ to the River of _Isere_ on one Side, and from the _Tarentaise_ to the _Dauphinois_.

CHAMBERRY, the Capital City of _Savoy_, is not a Town where you must expect sumptuous Fabrics, the Houses there making but a mean Figure, yet the Place is not for that Reason one jot the less agreeable; 'tis situate on the Banks of the River _Orbanno_ in a very little Plain encompa.s.s'd with Hills, where there are charming Walks, and special Company. There's a great Number of n.o.bility, who indeed are not the most money'd Men; yet they make good Entertainments, and keep a great deal of Company. The Ladies are beautiful, and the Gentlemen handsome, the common People good-natur'd and civil, and the _Savoyards_ in general are a very good Sort of People. They are accus'd of being too thrifty, but perhaps 'tis more out of Necessity than Inclination; for when a Man is oblig'd to support the Dignity of a n.o.ble or Gentleman, and has but a small Fortune, he is forc'd to be a good Husband whether he will or no.

At the Distance of five Leagues from _Chamberry_ I descended a high Mountain, in which I perceiv'd a Road had been cut for half a League. I saw by a _Latin_ Inscription at the Foot of the Mountain, which I had not Time to copy, that the _Romans_ formerly undertook to make this Road; but, judging it impossible, gave it over; yet _Charles Emanuel_ II. for the Good of his Subjects, and the Public in general, undertook it; and had the Glory to carry it to a Conclusion, which was the most useful and magnificent Thing that a great Sovereign could do: But I question whether he wou'd have accomplish'd it, if, like the _Romans_, he had not made use of Gunpowder. There was a Necessity for the blowing up of prodigious high Rocks for establishing the Bed of the Causey, which is fenc'd on both Sides by Rocks cut out in Form of Walls, that are as high as the Top of the Mountain. This hollow Way is subject to great Mists; when I pa.s.s'd, it was the finest Weather in the World on the Plain; but when I enter'd the Valley, I found a Mist so thick, that I could not see my Postilion.

This Mist brought me to the Town of ECh.e.l.lES, which is at the Foot of the Mountain at the Entrance of a Plain that leads to _Lyons_. I also pa.s.s'd to PONT DE BONVOISIN, a little Town which is shar'd betwixt the Kings of _France_ and _Sardinia_. Both these Princes have their Custom-houses here, the Officers of which are not very tractable. The King of _France_ keeps a Commandant, and two free Companies, in that Part of _Bonvoisin_, which belongs to him. This is the first Town of _Dauphiny_, which is not one of the least Provinces in the Kingdom. It was granted to _Philip de Valois_ by _Humbert de la Tour_, the last Sovereign Prince of _Dauphiny_, who bore the t.i.tle of Dauphin of the _Viennois_. History says, that _Humbert_, finding himself childless, made a Grant of his Princ.i.p.ality to the King of _France_, and chose a Monastic Life at _Lyons_ in the Order of St.

_Dominic_, in the Rules of which he liv'd with the very great Esteem of good Men. He was afterwards elected Prior of this Convent, and nominated Patriarch of _Alexandria_. Some say, that having been the innocent Author of the Death of his only Son, his deep Concern for this Accident made him resolve to embrace the Monastic Life; but others pretend, that having a secret Grudge against the Duke of _Savoy_, whom he was too weak to cope with, he made an Agreement with the King of _France_, on purpose that the Duke might have a Neighbour powerful enough not only to oppose, but to reduce him to Reason. But if this be true, it must be own'd to be a sad Sort of Revenge for a Prince to strip himself of a Sovereignty, purely to injure his Neighbour. I fansy there are few Princes wou'd be of the Humour to take such a Revenge. The same _Humbert_ requir'd, that the eldest Son of _France_ shou'd be styl'd the Dauphin, which was granted him, and has been observ'd ever since. The Duke of _Orleans_, the first Prince of the Blood of _France_, is Governor of _Dauphiny_. This Province has a Parliament, which is held at _Gren.o.ble_. The antient Dauphins resided at _Vienne_, which is an Archbishop.r.i.c.k. 'Twas to the Neighbourhood of this City, that _Herod_ and _Pilate_, our Saviour's Judges, were banish'd.

LYONS is so considerable a City, that the _French_ commonly say, _Next to +Paris+, +Lyons+_[37]. The _Saon_ runs thro' this City, and the _Rhone_ washes its Walls; 'tis a large opulent City, for the Inhabitants are industrious, laborious, and given to Trading. There's not a Town in _France_, if in the whole World, where they make such fine Stuffs. They endeavour to imitate them at _Turin_, in _Holland_, and elsewhere, but they can't come up to them. The City of Lyons is the See of an Archbishop, who is at present M. _de Rochebonne_, and therein succeeded the late M.

_de Villeroi_, Son to the late Marshal of that Name, who was _Lewis_ the XVth's Governor. The _Villeroi_ Family has been for a long time in Possession of the Government of _Lyons_, and the chief Dignities of its Province. The late Marshal obtain'd the Government of _Lyons_ and the _Lyonnois_ from King _Lewis_ XIV. who also granted him the Reversion of the said Government for his eldest Son, the Archbishop.r.i.c.k for his second Son, and the Abbey of _St. Peter_ in _Lyons_ for his Daughter. The Duke of _Orleans_, when Regent of the Kingdom, conferred on him moreover the Reversion of the Government of _Lyons_ for his Grandsons the Duke _de Retz_, and the Marquis _d'Alincourt_, and nominated the latter Lieutenant-General of the Province. Tho' Authority generally renders those hated who are vested with it, yet the Gentlemen of the Name of _Villeroi_ have ever escap'd that Fate; 'tis true they have always acted with very great Moderation, and are beneficent, well-bred, civil and generous, so that they are mightily belov'd in _Lyons_, where the late Marshal was as much respected as the King himself; for he procur'd great Advantages for the Province, and for the City in particular.

They tell a very good Story concerning the Admission of the first _Villeroi_ to the Archiepiscopal Dignity of this City. The Chapter of _Lyons_ is one of the most haughty in all _Christendom_, and 'tis not without Reason; for it is founded upon the Blood of above 20,000 Martyrs, and has always been reputed the Seminary of Popes, Cardinals and Bishops, who have been taken from thence to govern the Church. n.o.bility is inseparable therein from the Priesthood, and 'tis an Observation made by several Authors, that in the third Century the Chapter consisted of seventy-four Canons, of whom one was the Son of an Emperor, nine the Sons of Kings, fourteen the Sons of Dukes, thirty the Sons of Counts, and twenty were Barons. 'Tis no wonder therefore, that the Counts of _Lyons_, for they are not called Canons, made a Scruple to admit for their Archbishop _Camillus de la Neuville_, who was not of their Body, and whom King _Lewis_ XIV. had nominated to this Archbishop.r.i.c.k. _Neuville_ is known to be the Name of the Family of _Villeroi_. The Grandfather of this Prelate was the first of the Family that was of any Eminence; he had been Treasurer of the War-Office, and _Prevot des Marchands_ of the City of _Paris_; his Grandfather _Nicolas de la Neuville_ had been Secretary of State, and his Father _Charles de la Neuville_ was the first of the Family who had a t.i.tle of Honour, which was that of Marquis _d'Alincourt_, Sieur _de Villeroi_, an Estate which _Peter le Gendre_ Treasurer of _France_, had given to his Grandfather. The Marquis _d'Alincourt_ was Governor of _Lyons_ and the _Lyonnois_, and dying in the Service of the King, as Amba.s.sador at _Rome_, his Majesty gave his Son the Archbishop.r.i.c.k of _Lyons_, when it became vacant. The Chapter refus'd to admit him, because he was not of a suitable Rank, nor a Member of their Body; but the King found a way to make himself obey'd, and when the Archbishop harangu'd the Chapter, he took these Words of the Psalmist for his Text, _The Stone which the Builders had rejected, is become the head Stone of the Corner_.

The Discourse he made was, they say, as insulting to the Chapter as one would expect from the Choice of the Text. The Dean, whose ready Wit was applauded, made no other Answer to the Archbishop, than by taking the next Verse to that which the Prelate had chose, _viz._ _This is the Lord's (+the King's+) Doing, it is marvellous in our Eyes_. Notwithstanding this, the new Archbishop found means to become both the Spiritual and Temporal Governor of this City; for he was made Lieutenant-General in the Government of the _Lyonnois_ till the Year 1693, when he was succeeded by the Son of the Marshal _Villeroi_ his Nephew, and the latter was succeeded by M. _de Rochebonne_.

The Person who commands in the Absence of the Duke _de Villeroi_, Governor of the City, is the _Prevot des Marchands_, which is so much the worse for any Foreigner that comes Post; for he is carried to his House, and as strictly examin'd as if he was a Prisoner at the Bar. I was also oblig'd to conform to this Custom; having made me wait a long time in an Anti-chamber, where was a Mixture of People of all Sorts, he appear'd at last with an Air of Importance, which was not natural to him. The Questions he put to me, and the Answers I gave, were very Laconic, and I imagine that there is no Love lost betwixt us.

The _Prevot des Marchands_ ought to be chang'd every three Years; but when he is acceptable to the Court, he is commonly continued. One wou'd think, that the transitory Grandeur of these Gentlemen shou'd not make them so vain; for when they are turn'd out of their Employment, they make just the same Figure as a Stage-Player, after he has put off the _Roman_ Habit, in which he has represented _Mithridates_ or _Pyrrbus_.

I have reason to be as much pleas'd with M. _Poultier_ the Intendant, as I have to dislike M. _Perichon_, the _Prevot des Marchands_. I have been to make him a Visit, which he has return'd; and for these four Days that I have been here I go every Night to his House, where I see the best People of this City, in which there's good Company, tho' few n.o.bility. The Merchants of the first Rank live like petty Sovereigns, and have fine Houses, both in the Town and the Country. If a Foreigner has ever so little Acquaintance here, he cannot fail of being diverted; for the _Lyonnois_ are civil and obliging, and not so much absorb'd in Commerce as to neglect good Manners. They are extraordinary civil to me, and make me very welcome. They delight in Gaming, and are not insensible to Love and the Bottle.

The Comedy here is tolerable, and as much frequented as if it was the best: The Comedians generally make their Fortunes in this City, and if they don't get an Estate, they can at least shew a fine Wardrobe. At one of these Madams Levees a Captain is oblig'd to yield the Precedence to a Journeyman Shopkeeper. There's an old Actress here, who forty Years ago was the Darling of the Generality of _Lyons_: The People of good Taste wish her banish'd from the Theatre, but there's no persuading this superannuated Beauty not to expose her wither'd Charms: She has the Direction of the Comedy, which brings her in 20,000 Livres a Year. An Attempt has been made to cut off her Pension, which really might be better employ'd; but Mademoiselle _Marez_, which is the Name of this Matron, remonstrated, that she cou'd not live with less than 35000 Livres a Year, that her Gallant was not able to furnish her the odd 15,000 any longer, that she had no Estate; and that if they touch'd her Pension, she shou'd be undone for ever. Reasons so just as these prevail'd, so that it was not thought fit to push poor Mademoiselle _Marez_ to an Extremity. A Lady of this Province happening to be in Town, and hearing it reported that Mademoiselle _Marez_ had no less than 15,000 Livres a Year from her Gallant, said smartly, _Ah! base Jade! She ought to be burn'd; She takes the Bread out of the Mouths of above fifteen honest Wives_.

I often take the Air here in the Square of _Belle-Cour_, or _Lewis le Grand_, where I am sure to meet with good Company, there being always a great many very pretty Women, and well dress'd, who act the Ladies of Quality very well. But I mention my Walks at _Belle-Cour_ to you, without acquainting you what Sort of Place it is: 'Tis not pav'd, nor near so wide as it is long: The Houses at both Ends are uniform, and finely decorated; and it were to be wish'd, that those on the two Sides were of the same Proportion. On one Side of this Square there's a Row of Trees, and in the Middle an Equestrian Statue of _Lewis_ XIV. who is there represented on Horseback on a Pedestal of white Marble; but with no other Inscription than the Name, LEWIS XIV. which, after all that can be said, is a great deal of Praise in a little Compa.s.s; and the late Marshal _de Villeroi_, who engag'd the Citizens of _Lyons_ to be at the Expence of it, thought it the greatest and most respectful Compliment that cou'd be paid to the Original.

There's another Square here call'd _les Terreaux_, which is worthy of Notice; in the Front of it stands the Town-house, which is a grand and magnificent Edifice of Stone. _Lewis_ XIV. on Horseback is represented in Ba.s.so-Relievo over the Gate. On the Left-hand of the Town-house upon the Square of _Terreaux_ stands the Abbey of St. _Peter_, which is a great Building, and, when finish'd, will not want for Magnificence. I am, _&c._

[Ill.u.s.tration]

LETTER x.x.xVIII.

_SIR_, _Paris, March 20, 1732._

For the sake of good Wine I preferr'd the _Djon_ Road to _Paris_, before the great Road from _Lyons_ thro' _Tarare_; but I have been rightly serv'd for being so over-nice in my Palate, for I have been sadly impos'd on, and did not meet with one Gla.s.s of good Wine at any House of Entertainment in all the Road, which in other respects I found pleasant enough. I sent my Chaise to _Chalons_ upon the _Saone_, and went thither by Water in the Boat that carries Pa.s.sengers, who go in the _Diligence_ (Stage Coach) to _Paris_. In this Vehicle, which otherwise was not a very pleasant one, I happen'd to meet with a Couple of Officers of my Acquaintance, very amiable Gentlemen. We pa.s.s'd by TREVOUX, the Capital of the Princ.i.p.ality of _Dombes_, of which the Duke _de Maine_ is Sovereign: It came to him by Inheritance from the late Mademoiselle _de Montpensier_, Daughter of _Gaston_ of _France_, Duke of _Orleans_, a Princess who render'd herself famous in the Civil Wars by the taking of _Orleans_, and by ordering the Cannon to be fir'd from the Bastille upon the Army of _Lewis_ XIV. who never intirely forgave her for that Piece of Disrespect, and to punish her wou'd never give her leave to marry[38]. 'Twas to reconcile the King to her, that her Ladyship made the Duke _de Maine_ her Heir. _Dombes_ has a Parliament, and _Trevoux_ is famous for the _Literary Journal_ printed there, which causes such frequent Disputes among the Learned.

After having pa.s.s'd _Trevoux_, we saw several other Towns, Villages and Mansion-houses in a Country, one of the finest Landskips that 'tis possible to imagine. We din'd very much in Haste at a Village, and went and lay at MACON, an Episcopal City, where the Canons of the Cathedral have the t.i.tle of Counts, as well as those of the Church of St. _John_ at _Lyons_. This City did not seem to me to have any thing remarkable, and whether there is any good Company in it, I did not stay long enough to see.

CHALONS upon the _Saone_ is also the See of a Bishop, but did not appear to me to be one jot more considerable than _Macon_: I went to see the Castle, which has a full Command of the Town: There I was shew'd the Apartment where the d.u.c.h.ess of _Maine_ was kept Prisoner during the Regency of the Duke of _Orleans_. A Person had need of all that Spirit which she is known to have, to bear up under a Disgrace equal to hers: 'Twas but a little before, that all the People of _France_ were fond of making their Court to her; her Grandeur was not equall'd by any Princess of the Blood, and her Lodgings were perfectly superb; but on a sudden she fell from all her Splendor, and was oblig'd to live in a miserable Castle, with no Companions but the Women that are absolutely necessary to attend her[39]. I will hereafter give you a more particular Account of this Princess; but I now proceed on my Journey.

From _Chalons_ I went to DIJON, after having pa.s.s'd thro' _Beaune_, and along by the best Vineyards in all _Burgundy_. To tell you frankly my Mind, I had quite another Idea of _Dijon_, than what I really found it to be: 'Tis an ancient City, and most of the Houses are old, and make no great Appearance, tho' they are very convenient, and well fitted up. In the Street of _Conde_, which is newly built, the Houses are of equal Proportion. The lower Part consists of Shops, and over them are the Merchants Lodging-Rooms, and there are Iron Balconies at the Windows, which, if the Houses were higher, wou'd make a fine Sight. This Street leads to the Place Royale, in which there's an Equestrian Statue of the late King _Lewis_ XIV. which is plac'd on so high a Pedestal, that it even raises the Statue higher than the Houses that surround the Place, which moreover is by much too small to contain so great a Monument. The Houses are actually very low, and if they were to be carry'd higher, the Statue would look as if it were imprison'd in a Cage. This Ma.s.s of Copper was cast in _Paris_, and first carry'd by Water to _Auxerre_, where it remain'd a long while, it being so very heavy and large, that it was in a manner immoveable; but at last it was remov'd by Land Carriage to _Dijon_, but not without very great Difficulty, and as great Expence; yet it appeared to me to be one of the least Statues in the Kingdom.

This Statue faces the _King's House_, where lives the Duke of _Bourbon_, Governor of the Province. 'Tis a very s.p.a.cious Building, with two advanc'd Wings, but can only be reckon'd a very irregular Structure. I did not go to see the Apartments, because I was told, that they were not furnish'd, and not worth the Trouble of a View.

The Palace, where the Parliament meets, is very ancient, and one of the vilest in the Kingdom. Whether the Dukes of _Burgundy_ resided there heretofore, I know not; but if they did, they were not very sumptuously accommodated.

_Dijon_ was erected, but a few Years ago, into a Bishop.r.i.c.k, by the late Pope _Benedict_ XIII. at the Request of the Duke of _Bourbon_; who was very glad to procure that Honour for the Capital of his Government.

The Ring at _Dijon_ is the finest Thing about this City; which is really neither fine nor agreeable. The common People are not over and above civil, and those of Quality value themselves very much upon their n.o.bility. Pray read only the Letters of _Bussi Rabutin_, and you will know what Sort of Gentry the _Burgundians_ are; for they are all, like him, puffed up with their Birth. The Parliament of this Province consists generally of Persons of Quality.

The Duke of _Bourbon_ is the fourth Governor of _Burgundy_, of the _Conde_ Family; to which this Government is a Sort of Appenage. This Prince never comes to _Dijon_, but to hold an a.s.sembly of the States. The Count _de Tavannes_, who is Lieutenant-general of the Province, commands there in his Absence. There is an Intendant, and all the Sovereign Courts.

Notwithstanding so much Company, I thought _Dijon_ a melancholy Place; and I have seen a great many Towns in _France_ of less Note, which to me had a more gay and agreeable Appearance. There is a public Concert here, to which I was forc'd to go, whether I would or not; I thought, before I went, that it would be but indifferent, and so indeed I found it. The Hall was magnificent, the Company numerous and splendid, and the Concert would have been very good, if there had been Musicians; but as it was, it resembled the Butchers Concert of Marrow-bones and Cleavers.

From _Dijon_ I went to AUXERRE and SENS, of which the last is the See of an Archbishop; and that's all I can say of it, because I only staid there to change Horses. When I came to _Auxerre_, I found the whole Street where the Post-house stands in an Uproar, it being full of Mob, and especially of Women, who all seem'd very much enrag'd. This was owing to a Transaction the Night before, when the Wife of a Baker qualify'd her Husband for one of the chief Posts in the Seraglio: The Motive which induc'd her to this barbarous Action was Jealousy: Her Husband, who was about twenty Years old, and a very likely Man, was (at least, as the scandalous Chronicle of _Auxerre_ said) a little too intimate with a Pastry Cook Woman, who was young and handsome. The Baker's Wife, who was old and ugly, not being able to bear the Thoughts of her Husband's Inconstancy, had taken Care to lay a Razor under her Bolster; and at the very Time when her Husband was giving her the Marks of his Tenderness for her, she made him a second _Abelard_. This Tragedy having happen'd just as I arriv'd at _Auxerre_, the Inhabitants were all very much incensed against the Baker's Wife, and hurry'd the poor Wretch to Prison. The Women curs'd her heartily, yet in their serious Imprecations there was something perfectly comical. I verily believe, that if they had had her at their Mercy, they would have tore her to Pieces.

FONTAINEBLEAU, a Royal Palace which I pa.s.s'd thro', is fourteen Leagues from _Paris_. There's a great Village belonging to it, which stands in the Middle of a large Forest, wherein a great Number of long Roads is cut, for the Conveniency of Hunting. The Palace is irregular, because all the Kings from _Francis_ I. to _Lewis_ XIV. have made very considerable Additions to it; nevertheless the Apartments are grand and magnificent. There's a great Number of Cielings painted by celebrated Masters, whom _Francis_ I. sent for on purpose from _Italy_. The Gallery of the Stags is noted for the cruel Action committed there by _Christina_, Queen of _Sweden_; who caus'd her Master of the Horse, and her Favourite _Monaldeschi_, to be a.s.sa.s.sinated there before her Face, after having shewn him some Letters, which he had the Indiscretion to write, and reproach'd him for his Treachery, in the Presence of the Minister[40] of the Order of the Holy Trinity, whom she had sent for to give the poor Man Confession, and who in vain solicited his Pardon. _Lewis_ XIV. was very much disgusted at an Execution thus committed in his Palace, and, as it were, under his Nose: Indeed, rather than be oblig'd to manifest his Resentment, he chose to keep a profound Silence; but tho' he dissembled it as much as possible, _Christina_ perceiv'd, that she had staid too long at his Court, and resolv'd to retire to _Rome_, where in 1689 she died.

But _Fontainebleau_ has lately been the Scene of an Action more pleasant, grand and glorious, _viz._ the Ceremony of the Marriage of King _Lewis_ XV. The Duke of _Orleans_ having marry'd the Queen by Proxy, at _Strasbourg_, the Princess came by short Days Journies to a Place about a League from _Moret_; where she was met by the King, and the Princesses of the Blood. I had the Pleasure of being an Eye-witness of this Interview.

When the Two Coaches of the King and Queen came in Sight of each other, they advanc'd a few Paces upon the Trot, and then stopp'd; when their Majesties alighted, and walk'd to each other upon Carpets. When the Queen came near to the King, she kneel'd down upon a Cushion of blue Velvet, seeded with Fleurs-de-Lys of Gold. The Dukes of _Orleans_ and _Bourbon_ rais'd her up again, when the King saluted her, but said nothing to her: The Princes and Princesses saluted her also, and she receiv'd them with such a good-natur'd, modest Air, as prepossess'd the whole Court in her Favour. Then the King went into his Coach, where the Queen seated herself on his Left-hand; and the Princes and Princesses having plac'd themselves according to their Rank, they thus proceeded to _Moret_. I heard the late d.u.c.h.ess of _Orleans_ say, that there was a very great Silence observ'd in the Coach for some time, because all that were in it, out of Respect to the King, waited for him to speak first: But as he said nothing, the d.u.c.h.ess of _Orleans_, who had seen the Queen in _Germany_, and at _Metz_, was the first that broke Silence; and, by degrees, the Conversation became general. When they arriv'd at _Moret_, the King and the Queen, attended by the Princes and Princesses, went into the Queen's Closet: There the King talk'd; and after having stay'd about an Hour, he return'd to _Fontainebleau_, with the same Train that attended him when he set out from thence.

The next Morning, at Eight o'Clock, the Queen arriv'd at _Fontainebleau_, without any other Retinue than what she had during her whole Journey.

Being in an Undress, she went strait to her Apartment, and sat down to the Toilet; when she was dress'd, Word was brought to her, that the King was arriv'd; who, in a few Moments after, made his Appearance, in a Mantle of Gold Brocade, trimm'd with _Spanish_ Point of Gold, the whole enrich'd with Diamonds. His Majesty, having saluted the Queen, walk'd the same Instant towards the Chapel, and the Queen follow'd immediately after him, supported by the Dukes of _Orleans_ and _Bourbon_: She was dress'd in a Blue Velvet Gown, seeded with Fleurs-de-Lys of Gold; her Petticoat, and the Tail of her Gown, were fac'd with Ermin, and adorned with Diamonds; and her Royal Mantle, which was like her Gown, was held up by the Princesses of the Blood. She had the Royal Crown on her Head; and 'tis certain, that every thing about her was truly magnificent, and made a very grand Appearance. The Chapel was adorn'd with a rich Suit of Hangings, of blue Velvet, imbroider'd with Gold. The Elector of _Cologne_, the Electoral Prince of _Bavaria_, now Elector, the Duke _Ferdinand_, and the Bishop of _Freisingen_ and _Ratisbon_, were present _incognito_ at the Ceremony. The Cardinal _de Rohan_ gave their Majesties the Nuptial Benediction. The Queen happening to be out of Order during the Ma.s.s, the Duke of _Bourbon_, who perceiv'd it, gave her some Balm-water, by which her Majesty found immediate Relief.

After Ma.s.s was ended, they return'd in great Ceremony to the Queen's Apartment; and soon after was the Royal Feast, when the Princes and Princesses din'd with their Majesties. All this was very fine, but the Room was so much too small, that they who were in it were ready to be smother'd, and three-fourths of the People could not get in.

When the Feast was over, their Majesties chang'd their Apparel, and took an Airing with the Royal Family in a Calash, round the great Ca.n.a.l, preceded by all the Court n.o.bility, and the Officers of the King's Houshold, and follow'd by the Ladies, in Coaches drawn each by Six Horses.

But 'tis certain, that in the whole, there was nothing more magnificent than the Number of the Persons, and their Cloaths; for as to their Equipages, they were very ordinary; there was not so much as one new Coach, the Liveries were old, and the n.o.bility very sorrily mounted.

When the King and Queen were return'd to the Palace, there was a Drawing-room; after which, their Majesties supp'd with the Princesses of the Blood; and during the Supper, there was a Concert. When their Majesties arose from Table, they went to the Windows, and saw the Firework, and the Illumination in the Park; which was very much admir'd, but really appear'd trifling to us _Germans_, who are accustom'd to see Fireworks that cost immense Sums, and which are executed in a Manner that surpa.s.ses every thing done elsewhere of the Kind. Thus ended all the Rejoicings upon account of the King's Marriage. They say there were great Illuminations and Bonfires also at _Paris_; but as I was at _Fontainebleau_, I did not see them. 'Tis certain tho', that how much soever the _French_ were pleas'd with the Marriage of their King, they were in no very great Humour to rejoice at a Time when a Pound of Bread cost eleven Sols, and few were they that had a Belly-full. 'Tis no laughing Matter, when the Guts grumble. But I leave this long Digression, and resume the Thread of my Narrative, by proceeding with the Description of _Fontainebleau_.