The hereditary Prince _Lewis_, the only Son of the Landgrave, who was born the 5th of _April_ 1691, is a handsome Man, has a n.o.ble Air, dances well, mounts a Horse well, has Vivacity, Spirit, and Politeness, but is often thoughtful, melancholy, and goes for Retirement to the Woods, where he is pa.s.sionately fond of Hunting; but is apt to create himself Uneasiness, and does not know how to dissemble it. Tho' he has all the Qualities necessary to shine in Company, yet he sees but very little. He married _Charlotta-Christina of Hanau_, who dying in 1726, left him three Sons and two Daughters, the eldest of which was then seven Years of Age. By virtue of this Marriage the Prince is Heir to the Count of _Hanau's_ Estate in _Alsace_, and to all his Freeholds in general, which will be a very rich Succession.

Nevertheless the Court of _Darmstadt_ is very numerous. The Landgrave has a great many Counsellors of State, Gentlemen of the Bed-Chamber and Court, and a greater Number still of Officers of the Venery, and Huntsmen. There is not a Province in _Germany_ more proper for Hunting, nor in _Europe_ where there are more Deer. 'Tis a flat even Country, and a gravelly Soil interspersed with Woods thro' which there are cut n.o.ble Roads. I have seen the Deer come up close to the Pallisadoes of the Town, and at their Rutting-time I have heard them cry as I lay in my Bed. This great plenty of Deer is extremely troublesome to the Peasants who are abroad day and night to watch their Fields. The Landgrave and the hereditary Prince are so jealous of their Game that they reckon it as bad a Crime as Murder for any one to kill a Deer; and tho' 'tis an establish'd Custom among almost all Sovereigns to punish with Severity all those that kill a Creature which G.o.d however certainly created for the Use of all Mankind, yet there is no Prince who observes this Law more strictly than the Landgrave.

I cannot give you a more certain Account of the Revenues of this Prince than of those of all the other Sovereigns. 'Tis said that he has 5 or 600000 Florins _per Ann._ I am not very well inform'd of the number of his Troops, for I have only seen his Regiment of Guards which is in very compleat Order. His Horse-Guards are also very fine Troops, and commanded by the General _Milt.i.tz_, who is at the same time Grand Marshal of the Court, the Honours of which he performs in a very handsome manner.

Tho' the Soil at _Darmstadt_ is very gravelly, it produces excellent Pulse. I have seen Asparagus at the Landgrave's Table, three of which weigh'd a Pound, tho' indeed they were not altogether so nice. I remember that in a former Journey which I made hither in the Month of _December_, there were brought to the Landgrave in several Pots of Porcellain, a Dwarf Cherry-Tree laden with Cherries; Strawberry-Plants, an Almond-Tree, and in short, the Fruits of all the Seasons.

The intended Hunting-Match, for what reason I know not, was put off; and as I came hither only to see it, I staid but one Day and went to HANAU.

The Count and the Princess of _Hanau_ were but lately return'd from _Alsace_. The Town of _Hanau_ is situate on a large Plain to the right of the _Main_. 'Tis divided into two Wards, the old and the new Town: The latter is much bigger than the former: It was built by the _Walloon_ Protestants, who, during the Duke of _Alva's_ Persecution under _Philip_ II. King of _Spain_, quitted the _Netherlands_ and came to settle at _Hanau_, which they fortify'd, and built in such a manner that all the Streets run parallel. The Count keeps several Companies in pay, from which he makes Detachments for the Quota he is oblig'd to furnish, as a Member of the Circle of the _Upper Rhine_.

The _Walloons_ who are settled at _Hanau_ have established several Manufactures there, especially Woollen Stuffs. The _Calvinists_, the _Lutherans_, and the _Jews_ are tolerated here, and as for us Catholics, we may go to Ma.s.s where we please.

The Count's Palace is in the old Town: 'Tis an ancient Building, and makes no great Appearance, but the Apartments are commodious, and very richly furnish'd. The Count has a very pretty Pleasure-House a quarter of a League from _Hanau_, call'd PHILIPSRUHE, _i. e._ (_Philip's Repose_) and built by the late Count _de Hanau_, Brother to the Count Regent[155].

'Twas at this Seat that I found the Count of _Hanau_. There was a very numerous Attendance, and I heartily wish'd I could have staid there a few days. Few Princes in the Empire live more elegantly than the Count _de Hanau_. The Lady who directs the whole Houshold, and keeps all things in wonderful Order is the Princess[156] who is of the Family of _Brandenbourg-Ans.p.a.ch_, and Sister to the Queen of _England_. At this Court you have all the Liberty than can be desired. When you first come a Chamber is provided for your Lodging, and a Footman order'd to wait on you. Every Morning an Officer comes to know what you will please to have for Breakfast; and there's every Thing to be had that you call for. If afterwards you have a mind to go out a Hunting, you send to the Great Huntsman for a Guide and to the Count for Horses out of his Stables. If you come back too late for Dinner at Court, you are serv'd very elegantly in your own Apartment. In the Evening when you are retir'd from Company, a Butler takes care to provide you with Wine and Beer. The Servants of Foreigners diet with those of the Count. His own Table which is commonly for eighteen Guests is served as well as most, and a second Table is serv'd with the same Magnificence. The Count has a very great Family, and lives every way like a Prince; and indeed 'tis his own Fault that he is not one, for he has had the Imperial Diploma for it a long while, but he does not care to make use of it; saying, he had rather be the first Count than the lowest Prince. He is the last Male of his Family. After his Death the County of _Hanau_ relapses to the Landgrave of _Hesse-Ca.s.sel_, according to the Treaty of Confraternity made between the several Families of _Saxony_, _Hesse_, and _Hanau_, which imports that the said Families shall succeed one another. The King of _Poland_ as Elector of _Saxony_ ought to have had his Share in the Succession to the County of _Hanau_, but his Majesty by a Treaty yielded his Rights to the Landgrave of _Ca.s.sel_. As to the Lands in _Alsace_, and the Freeholds, they revert, as I told you before, to the Children of the hereditary Prince of _Darmstadt_.

The Count of _Hanau_ seems to be much older than he is in reality. He is a very civil n.o.bleman, and Hunting is a Diversion of which he is extremely fond, so that to kill a Deer upon his Lands is an unpardonable Crime; and the lesser Game, such as Rabbits, Hares, and Partridges, are equally his Care. All these Creatures spoil the Fields; but they serve for the Count's Amus.e.m.e.nt, while the poor Peasant is oblig'd to pay his Tax, and dares not speak a Word.

From _Hanau_ to MUNICH I never made a stop; but after having travell'd thro' _Wurtzbourg_, _Nurembourg_, and _Augsbourg_ arrived here last night, and propose to set out again to-morrow, and after two or three days stay at _Saltzbourg_ shall proceed by the way of _Tirol_ to _Venice_, where I beg you would not fail to let me hear from you.

I am just come from attending the Obsequies of _Theresa-Cunegunda Sobieski_ Electoress of _Bavaria_, Mother to the Elector. This Princess died lately at _Venice_, to which City she retir'd eighteen Months ago, and her Corpse is forthwith expected to be interr'd in the Tomb of the Electoral Family. She has left, as 'tis said, near six millions of Florins, which, since she has made no Will, are to be equally shar'd between the four Princes her Sons. She has moreover left a Daughter who is a Nun in a Convent of this City. In 1719, when she took the Habit, I was present. She chose this retir'd Life against the Will of her Father the Elector, who did all he could to dissuade her from it; and she liv'd in great Reputation for her Piety. But to return to the Obsequies of the Electoress: The Elector and Electoress a.s.sisted at them, together with the Elector of _Cologne_, the Duke _Ferdinand_, the Bishop of _Freisingen_, the d.u.c.h.ess _Ferdinand_, and the two Princes her Sons. These Princes had Cowls upon their Heads, and great Cloaks, which is not one of the most becoming Dresses. The Family of _Bavaria_ observes a very singular Custom, which is, never to give a black Livery, nor to line their Coaches. I think this reasonable enough, for it does not look very well in a pompous Funeral.

_I am_, &c.

[Ill.u.s.tration]

LETTER XXIII.

_SIR_, _Saltzbourg, April 2, 1730._

At my departure from _Munich_ I went and din'd at _Eversberg_, a Village belonging to the Reverend Fathers the Jesuits, who have a House there which is a large one, and that's all 'tis good for. I went and lay at Wa.s.sERBOURG a Town of _Bavaria_ built upon a Rock, so encompa.s.s'd with the River _Inn_ that 'tis a perfect Peninsula. Mountains and Rocks hang over this Town as if they wou'd crush it, and indeed the Place is not worth much Description. It was settled as a Dowry on the Electoress _Theresa-Cunigunda Sobieski_ who died last Month, but this Princess would never live in it, nor indeed do I know any other Prince that would.

After having pa.s.s'd the _Inn_[157] over a very slender wooden Bridge I climb'd a high Mountain, got down another, ascended a third, and so I travell'd all the way up Hill and down Hill till I came within two Leagues of _Saltzbourg_, where the Country becomes more pa.s.sible.

The City of SALTZBOURG as well as the whole Archbishop.r.i.c.k takes its Name from the River _Saltz_ which pa.s.ses thro' the City and Country. It rises in _Tirol_ and loses itself in the _Inn_. The Mountains that are about the Town make it not near so broad as 'tis long, tho' take it all together 'tis not a large Town. 'Tis very well fortify'd, and has a Castle which standing on an Eminence forms as it were a Citadel. 'Tis furnish'd with a good a.r.s.enal, and all manner of Ammunition, and I have been a.s.sur'd that of Gunpowder alone there are no less than 20000 Quintals. Some Years ago when I was here, Lightning fell so near this Magazine that it wanted but half a Foot of penetrating to the Powder, which if it had touch'd I fancy I shou'd never have wrote to you more. There is always a Guard of fifty Men at the Castle, and the Garison of the Town consists of 600 Men who are lodg'd in the Caserns.

The City of _Saltzbourg_ contains finer Edifices than many great Towns. It has a magnificent Cathedral which was consecrated the 24th of _September_ 1628, by an Archbishop who was of the Family of the Counts _de Lodron_.

'Tis a vast Structure of Free-stone, and has a stately Front which may be reckon'd the compleatest in _Germany_. The skilful Architect by whom it was directed has very much copy'd the Front of St. _Agnes's_ Church in the Square of _Navona_ at _Rome_. It has four Marble Statues bigger than the Life, which represent St. _Peter_, St. _Paul_, St. _Rupert_, and St.

_Virgilius_, of whom the two latter were the first Archbishops of this See. The whole Church is adorn'd in the inside with Pilastres of the _Corinthian_ Order. 'Tis built in the Form of a Cross with a very high Dome which separates the Nave from the Choir. The high Altar which is at the bottom of the Choir is of Marble, as are the two Chapels that form the Cross: The Pavement of the Church is of great Squares of Marble of various Colours. 'Tis pity there was not more Inlet for Light, the Dome being the only lightsome Part of it. But as the Church is magnificent the Ornaments of the high Altar are more so. Upon the Grand Festivals it bears a Sun of Gold adorn'd with precious Stones to the Value of 100000 Crowns, a great Cross of ma.s.sy Gold, and four golden Candlesticks. The Front of the Altar, and the Tabernacle are of ma.s.sy Silver of excellent Workmanship.

St. _Rupert_ surnam'd the Apostle of _Bavaria_ was the first Bishop of _Saltzbourg_ in 582. _Leo_ III. whom the Church honour'd as a Saint, erected this Bishop.r.i.c.k into an Archbishop.r.i.c.k in favour of St. _Arnould_, in the Year 798. He had for Suffragans the Bishops of _Freisingen_, _Ratisbon_, _Pa.s.sau_, _Briken_, _Gurck_, _Chiemsee_, _Seggau_, and _Lavant_.

The Archbishop has a Right of Nomination to the four last Bishop.r.i.c.ks; only the Nomination to the Bishop.r.i.c.k of _Gurck_ is alternative between this Prelate and the Emperor, as Archduke of _Austria_. The four Bishops bear the t.i.tle of Princes of the Empire, and enjoy all the Prerogatives annexed to that high Dignity. Notwithstanding this, the Archbishop never gives them the Preference, and when he talks to them, only compliments them with the t.i.tle of _Euer Freuntschaft_, i. e. _Your Friendship_.

Service is perform'd in this Metropolis according to the Usage observ'd in St. _Peter's_ Church at _Rome_. The Chapter is compos'd of the Archbishop, a Provost, a Dean, and twenty four Canons, all Men of Quality, who are only oblig'd to four Months Residence, and the rest of the Time they may go where they please. Both the Provost and Dean have the Crosier and Mitre[158]. The Archbishop, as well as the Elector of _Cologn_, has the Privilege of dressing in the Habit of a Cardinal. This Prelate has the Directorship of the College of Princes at the Dyet of the Empire alternatively with the Archduke of _Austria_. He is moreover _Legatus natus & perpetuus_ of the Holy See, and Primate of _Germany_. His t.i.tles are these, '_Leopold_, by the Grace of G.o.d, Archbishop of _Saltzbourg_, and Prince of the Empire, perpetual Legate of the Holy Apostolic See of _Rome_, Primate of _Germany_, descended of the ill.u.s.trious Family of the Barons of _Firmian_.'

The Archbishop at his coming to the See must pay 100000 Crowns to _Rome_ for the Pall, but the Country generally raises it for him, besides making a free Gift of the like Sum to its new Prince. The Revenues of this Prelate are about 1500000 Florins a Year. The very Salt which is carried into _Bavaria_ and _Swabia_ brings him in 30000 Crowns. He is absolute Master of all his Revenues, and accountable to no body for what he lays out. The present Archbishop is of _Tirol_, of a distinguish'd Family, but not favour'd much by Fortune. He was born the 26th of _May_ 1679, and succeeded _Francis-Anthony_ the Count _de Harrach_. His Advancement was owing to the Division of the Chapter, who all wanted to be either Bishops themselves, or else to advance some one Friend or Cousin. After a great many Debates and Messages sent forwards and backwards, their Choice fell upon the Baron _de Firmian_ who was at that time very infirm, which was the only Thing that procur'd him the Mitre; for the Parties that divided the Chapter united in his favour, because they thought him a Man not very long-liv'd; but they believ'd however he might live long enough to give each Party time to form its Cabals for advancing that Person to the Bishop.r.i.c.k who they thought would best serve their Purpose. But all those Gentlemen were mightily mistaken as to the Archbishop's Life. For this Prelate, like another Pope _Sixtus_ V. lost all his Infirmities when he found the Mitre, and is very like to out-live many of his Electors.

This Prince is tall, has an austere haughty Air; seldom makes any Compliments, and talks much less, except when he is hunting, which is all the Pleasure of his Life. He is almost always alone, and generally eats by himself. In the Summer-time he keeps altogether in the Country where he is of very difficult Access, and keeps no Retinue, nor Company. He is accus'd of being too thrifty, and I don't know but there may be something in it; but perhaps he would not appear to be quite so saving if he had succeeded any body else in the Bishop.r.i.c.k but the Count _de Harrach_, the most generous, n.o.ble, and most magnificent Prelate of his Time. The Archbishop is naturally a Valetudinarian; and under G.o.d, he is oblig'd for the Preservation of his Life to his Physician _Gersner_, a Native of _Vienna_, a Man of great Skill in his Profession, and of strict Honour and Integrity, who has got so much the length of the Prelate's Foot that he is almost the only Person that dares to speak to him with Freedom. The Count _d'Arco_ Son to the Archbishop's Sister is this Prelate's only Darling; for to the surprize of the whole Court, and Chapter, he prefers him before a Nephew of his own Name, a Canon of _Saltzbourg_ and of _Trent_, a young Clergyman of great Hopes.

The Archbishop of the _Lodron_ Family who caus'd the Metropolis to be built, likewise founded the Archiepiscopal Palace, the Fortifications, and the Stables, which were all finish'd in the thirty two Years that he was Archbishop. The Apartments of the Palace being not laid out altogether in the modern Taste, the deceased Archbishop _Anthony_ Count _de Harrach_, made a thorough Change in them, and left little more than the Outside standing. The Palace at _Saltzbourg_ is now more magnificent than many royal Houses. It contains 173 Rooms all richly furnish'd, without reckoning the Halls and Galleries. The Archbishop's Apartment is stately: It has a great Marble Stair-case divided into three Flights, which leads into a s.p.a.cious Guard-Chamber, from whence one enters into the Archbishop's Apartment consisting of several Rooms, where able _Italian_ Masters have adorn'd the Cielings with very good Draughts. One is really surprized to see the Richness of the Furniture, and the infinite Variety of other things that are distributed up and down this vast Apartment; such as Marble Tables adorn'd with gilt Mouldings; old Porcellain of the most beautiful sort; l.u.s.tres of ma.s.sy Silver, and Rock Crystal of uncommon Workmanship; Chandeliers also of Silver or Crystal upon large gilded Stands, and a mult.i.tude of other things very well worth observation.

How magnificent soever this Apartment is, there's another made use of upon Days of Ceremony which infinitely surpa.s.ses it. I will only mention the princ.i.p.al Rooms of it. We first enter into a great Salon adorn'd with the Pictures of no less than fourscore Archbishops of _Saltzbourg_. Next to it there's another Salon ingeniously and magnificently decorated, which discovers Grandeur in every part of it. 'Tis furnish'd with a Suit of Hangings of Crimson-Damask with Gold Lace, forming a rich Architecture in Pilasters of the Composite Order, the Frize of which is adorn'd with a pair of Brackets, which is a vast Addition to the whole Decoration. The rich Gilding shines every where with profusion. At one end of the Room there stands in the Wall a sumptuous Beaufet of Silver gilt, and at the other there's a rich Canopy under which the Archbishop sits when he dines in State. There's a stately l.u.s.tre in the middle of the Room which consists of magnificent pieces of Rock Crystal. At the end of this grand Apartment there are two Galleries that deserve the attention of the Curious in Painting, who will certainly pa.s.s their time here very agreeably, and find a great many choice Pictures done by the best Masters. The Chimney-piece of the first of these Galleries is a great Ornament to it, being of the finest Marble adorn'd with Bra.s.s, gilt with Water-Gold. Over it there's a Statue of Bra.s.s as big as the Life representing _Antinous_. The second Gallery is as magnificent as the first. The Floor, Cieling, Door-Cases, and all the Ornaments in general are of fine Marble. The Walls are painted in Fresco, and exhibit Geographical Charts of the princ.i.p.al Dominions in _Europe_ in divers Pictures, which are executed with very great Art and Exactness both as to the Painting and Disposition of the Things that are the Subjects of it.

A third Apartment which is over the Archbishop's is for lodging foreign Princes, and is not inferiour to the others in Grandeur and Magnificence.

It consists of several Rooms all in a row. In one Room there are all the Pictures of the Emperors from _Charlemain_ to _Charles_ VI. The Rooms that follow it are hung with very rich Tapestry, particularly one Set representing the War between _Pompey_ and _Caesar_, which is so wonderfully well drawn that the Marshal _de Daun_ Governour of _Milan_ offer'd 40000 Florins for it to the late Archbishop. I shall say nothing of the other Apartments, having treated so much of the Archiepiscopal Palace; tho' if it had belong'd to a Temporal Prince I should have said much less of it, but I thought fit to give you an Idea of the Wealth of a Prelate.

Adjoining to the Palace there is a great Building which serves for lodging the Archbishop's Domestics. The Stables are fit for a King, and if a _Frenchman_ was to see them he would be forc'd to own that as to the Inside they are more magnificent than the so much boasted Stables of _Versailles_. They hold 150 Horses in two Rows, with a broad Walk in the middle; and the Roof which is pretty high is supported by two Ranges of Stone-Pillars. Next to these Stables is a Riding-House cover'd, the Ceiling of which being painted in Fresco, represents a Tournament; and all round it there is a Gallery. 'Tis pity that this magnificent Riding-House is not broader. There's another Riding-House uncovered which has not its Fellow in the World. 'Tis a very great square Place, three Sides of which are lin'd by very high Rocks, in which three Rows of Seats are very artfully cut out for the Spectators, when there is any Carousal, or Combat of wild Beasts. The whole Work is really magnificent, and the old _Romans_ would not have been ashamed to own it.

_Trinity-College_ Church is extremely well adorned. The Floor is of Marble, and the Roof painted with a great deal of Art, representing the a.s.sumption of the Virgin, and the Crown placing on her Head by G.o.d the Father and by Jesus Christ. The High-Altar is of a very singular Form, but very magnificent. Two Angels of Bra.s.s, exceeding human Stature, in a Posture of Humility and Adoration, support a Heart of Bra.s.s which serves for a Tabernacle. Over it is a Globe, between G.o.d the Father and the Redeemer. G.o.d the Father seems to rest his right hand upon the Globe, and presents the left to our Lord, who puts his left upon the Globe, and in the right holds a Cross. They are supported by very large Rays which shine with very rich Gilding. This stately Groupe is surmounted with a Glory, in the midst of which the Holy Ghost appears in form of a Dove, extending its Rays over G.o.d the Father, and G.o.d the Son. The whole is of Bra.s.s gilt with Gold, of a very curious Fancy.

Near this magnificent Church is the Palace of _Mirabel_, where the late Archbishop the Count _de Harrach_, used to spend the Summer. This Prince who is truly magnificent in every thing, caus'd this House to be built at a great Expence from the very Foundation; but the Architect whom he employ'd has not answer'd his Intention, and it appears that he did not understand the proper Distribution of the Apartments. Every Part of it indeed taken distinctly, is beautiful, but there is not one in its proper Place. The grand Stair-Case is very fine, as well for its Contrivance as for its rich Ornaments, but 'tis placed in a Corner, and without a Guide 'tis no easy matter to find it. The Salon, which is the Master-piece of the Archbishop's Apartments, is worth the Observation of the Curious, with respect to the grand Manner in which 'tis painted: Marble, Bra.s.s, and Gilding, seem to have been bestowed on it with profusion. As to the Pilasters, the _Corinthian_ Order is entirely observed; and there are Ba.s.so-Relievos imitating Bra.s.s which are well design'd, and make a very good appearance. 'Tis pity this fine Salon wants proportion, it being much too lofty for its Size; and 'tis still more to be lamented that it has not a Prospect over the Gardens, the River of _Saltz_, and the adjacent Country, which are the Objects that are discover'd from the Apartments next to the Salon.

The Chapel of _Mirabel_ is also very magnificent; and though but of a middling Size, is not inferior to the finest Churches. This Palace is accompanied with Gardens finely adorned with Fountains and Statues; and there are several Orange-Trees planted in the Ground, which are cover'd up in the Winter in a wooden Box.

Thus, Sir, have I given you a very particular Account of the City of _Saltzbourg_: What remains for me is to speak of the Archbishop's Houshold, which will give you an Idea of his Wealth and Grandeur. This Prince has

A Steward, A Great Chamberlain, A Grand Marshal, A Master of the Horse, A Great Huntsman, A Captain of the Guards, A Master-Cook, A Pay-Master, Twenty-four Chamberlains, Sixteen Gentlemen-Servants called _Truchsses_, Sixteen Pages, Fifteen Ushers of the Cabinet, Eleven Ushers of the Chamber, Forty-two Valets de Chambre, Twenty-eight Footmen, Eighteen Cooks.

How many Coachmen and Grooms he has I know not, but there must be a great number of 'em, the Archbishop having 750 Horses.

Besides the Officers that I have now mentioned, there are also the Great Hereditary Officers of the Archbishop.r.i.c.k, who are four.

The eldest of the _Lodron_ Family is Hereditary Grand Marshal.

The Count _de Kuenbourg_ is Great-Cup-Bearer.

The Office of Master of the Pantry is vacant by the death of the Count _de Thanhausen_, the last of his Family.

The Count _de Torring_ is Great Chamberlain.

All these Offices are executed by the eldest Sons of the Families above-mentioned.

The Archbishop confers the Order of St. _Hubert_, which was inst.i.tuted the 25th of _November_, 1702, by the Archbishop _John-Ernest_, who has thereto annexed six Commanderies, or Prebends, of a considerable Revenue.

The Archbishops are obliged for most of their Wealth to the Princes of _Bavaria_[159]. Mean time the Members of the Chapter of _Saltzbourg_ admit of no Princes, that they may have a Plea for refusing the Princes of _Bavaria_, of whose Power they are jealous; in which I think they shew more regard to the Rules of Policy than those of Grat.i.tude.

The City of _Saltzbourg_ is worth seeing, but does not afford Amus.e.m.e.nt.

Every one lives here for his own sake, and except some Gentlemen of the Chapter, and the Master of the Horse, who is the Count _de Truchsses Zeil_, there's n.o.body to visit. The latter is a n.o.bleman whose Manners and Sentiments are intirely conformable to his Birth. I know n.o.body that is more polite; and I have abundant reason to praise his Civility to me. He is of a Family, one Branch of which is settled in _Prussia_, where it has for a long time held distinguished Employments, and produced Subjects of great Merit who have done the State good Service.

I forgot to mention two things to you that are worth seeing, _viz._ the Capuchins Convent, from whence there's a Prospect of a vast Tract of Country; and St. _Sebastian_'s Church-yard, in which is interr'd the celebrated _Paracelsus_; his Tomb lies in a Place very much neglected, behind a Door, where a _Latin_ Epitaph says, 'There rests _Philip-Theophrastus Paracelsus_, the famous Physician, who with wonderful Art cured the Leprosy, Gout, Dropsy, and other incurable Distempers; and who after having given all his Estate to the Poor, died _September_ 24, 1541.'

_Paracelsus_ cured most of his Patients by Sympathy, which made the Vulgar, who are always apt to run into extremes, believe that he was a Magician. He wrote several Books, whereof one of the most curious is his _Treatise of Secret Philosophy_, which really contains such Pa.s.sages as would make one believe that if _Paracelsus_ was not a Conjurer himself, he was at least one of the Sect.

St. _Sebastian_'s Church-yard is a square Place, encompa.s.sed with a Gallery supported by Arches: 'tis 119 Paces in length, and 96 in breadth.

The Neighbourhood of _Saltzbourg_ is not disagreeable; and though the Valley in which the City lies is pretty much inclosed with Mountains, yet it presents several Objects that are pleasing to the Sight.