T---- --Study of Shakespeare--Attractions of Mrs. T---- --Lady Charlotte Llndsay and the Misses Berry--Sir William Gell--Mr. and Mrs.

Hare--Female Amiability--Shopping--Hints on Female Dress--Brilliancy of French Conversation--Mr. J. Strangways--A severe Trial--The Plague-spot--Miraculous Escape--Dinner given by Comte A. de Maussion--Goethe's _Faust_--Character of "Margaret"--The witty Mr.

M---- --Lord Byron--French Quickness of Apprehension--_Sept Heures_--Character of Charlotte Corday--Degenerate Taste of the Parisians--Hasty Conclusions, 91.

CHAPTER X.

The celebrated Dr. P---- --Society of Medical Men--Dr.

Guthrie--Requisites for a Surgeon--Celebrity and Merit--The Road to Fortune, as related by Dr. P---- --Successful Stratagem--Fancied Illness--Superfluity of _Embonpoint_--Mode of Treatment--Another Patient--The Doctor a-la-mode--Mr. P. C. Scarlett--Lord Erskine--Mr.

H.B---- --Visit to the Theatre Italien--Madame Malibran's "Desdemona"--Defect in her Singing--The Princesse Pauline Borghese--The Family of Napoleon--Particulars of the d.u.c.h.esse d'Abrantes--The Luxembourg Palace and Gardens--A Loving Couple--Holiness of Marriage--Story of the Old Bachelor and his Crafty Housekeeper, 105.

CHAPTER XI.

Groups of Children in the Gardens of the Luxembourg--Joyous Sounds--The Nurses--The Child of n.o.ble Birth and that of the _Parvenu_--Joys of Childhood--Contrast between Youth and Age--Meeting with Dr. P---- --Arrival of General and the Comtesse d'Orsay--Attractions of the latter--Remark of Napoleon--Affection in Domestic Circles in France--The d.u.c.h.esse de Guiche--The Comtesse d'Orsay--The Duc de Gramont--Madame Craufurd--The _ci-devant Jeune Homme_--Potter, the actor--Sir Francis Burdett--Advantages of French Society--Topics of Conversation--Pedigrees of Horses--French Politeness--Deferential Treatment of the Fair s.e.x--Domestic Duties of the d.u.c.h.esse do Guiche--Influence of Courts--Visit to the Theatre des Nouveautes--_La Maison du Rempart_--Inflammable Exhibitions--Mr. Cuthbert and M.

Charles Lafitte--advance of Civilization--Lady Combermere--Mr. Charles Grant (now Lord Glenelg)--Curiosity Shops on the Quai Voltaire--Madame de Sevigne--Objects that have belonged to celebrated People--A Hint to the Ladies--Pincushion of Madame de Maintenon--The Marquis de Rambouillet--Moliere's _Precieuses Ridicules_--Pangs of Jealousy--Julie d'Angennes--Brilliant Coterie, 120.

CHAPTER XII.

The Marquise de Pouleprie---The celebrated Madame du Barry--Anecdote--Mademoiselle Mars in _Valerie_--Her admirable Style of Acting--Playing to the Galleries--Exclusive Nature of Parisian Society--French Conversation--Quickness of Perception--Walk in the Gardens of the Tuileries--Comparative Beauty of French and English Ladies--Graceful Walking of the Former--Difference of Etiquette--Well-bred Englishmen--Flight of Time--Colonel Caradoc, son of Lord Howden--New Year's Day--Custom of making Presents--Gallery of the Louvre--The Statues therein--Works of Art--_Chefs-d'oeuvre_ of the Old Masters--Consolation for Men of Genius--Nicolas Poussin, 134.

CHAPTER XIII.

Visit to the Hotel d'Orsay--Sad Change in it--Mr. Millingon, the Antiquary--Liberality of Comte d'Orsay--A Fanciful Notion--General Or-nano--Unhappy Marriages accounted for--_La Gazza Ladra_--Mallbran's "Ninetta"--_The Calamities of Authors_--Mr. D'Israeli--The Princesse de Talleyrand--Her Person described--Her Dress and Manners--Amusing Story told by the Abbe Denon--Unexpected Arrival--_Yes and No_, by Lord Normanby--Lady Dysart-Comte Valeski--Influence of Agreeable Manners--Effects of opposite ones--Injudicious Friends--A Candid Admission--Lord ---- --Love of Contradiction--Remarks on the Novel of _Pelham_--Misery of receiving stupid Books--Malibran in _La Cenerentola_--French Customs--Proofs d'_Amilie_--Wedding Dresses, 146.

CHAPTER XIV.

Comte Charles de Mornay--His Wit and Good Nature--Mademoiselle Mars, in _Henri III_--Some Account of the Play--Love and Ambition--Curious Incident--Romantic Notions--Pa.s.sion of Love--Wordsworth's Poems--Admiration of his Writings--Religion displayed by the Upper Cla.s.ses--The Duc de Bordeaux--Piety of the Great--Popularity of the d.u.c.h.esse de Berri--Anecdote of her--Walter Savage Landor--His _Imaginary Conversations_--Sir William Gell--The Duc d'Orleans--His Enviable Situation--The Duc de Chartres--Genius of Sh.e.l.ley--Beauty of his Writings--His Wild Theories--William Spencer the Poet--Melancholy Change in Him--French Prejudices towards the English--Example of it--Accomplishments of French Ladies--Talent for Conversation, 169.

CHAPTER XV.

Consequences of the Revolution in France--Corruption of the Regency--Sarcastic Verses of St.-Evremond--Reign of Louis the Fifteenth--Lessons taught by Affliction--Dangers of Anarchy--The _Haute n.o.blesse_ previously to the Revolution--Want of Affection between Parents and Children--Superficial Judgments erroneous--Power of Fashion--The Novel of _Devereux_--Infrequency of Elopements in France--Les Dames de B---- --Their Attachment to each other--Old Maids--Servitude in England and France contrasted--French Masters and Mistresses--Treatment of Servants--Avoidance of Politics--French Discontent--Charles the Tenth--National Prosperity--The d.u.c.h.esse de Guiche and her two Sons--Position of the Duc de Guiche, 171.

CHAPTER XVI.

Approach of Spring--Fogs on the Seine--The Jardins des Tuileries--Impurity of the London Atmosphere--Exhilaration of the Spirits--Anecdote--The Catholic Question--Lord Rosslyn--The Duke of Wellington--Merits of a Cook--_Amour-propre_ of a Parisian Cook--English Sauce--A Gourmand and an Epicure--The Duc de Talleyrand--A perfect Dinner--The Marquis de L---- --House-hunting again--Letter from Lord B---- --The Hotel Monaco--College of St.-Barbe--The d.u.c.h.esse de Guiche and her Sons--A Mother's Triumph--Spirit of Emulation--The Quarter called the Pays Latin--An Author's Dress--Aspect of the Women--A Life of Study--Amable Tastu's Poems--Effect of Living much in Society--Mr. W. Spencer--His Abstraction--Disadvantages of Civilization--Confession of Madame de ---- --A Hint to Comte ---- on visiting London--Suspicion of Poverty--A _Diner Maigre_--Luxurious Bishops, 182.

CHAPTER XVII.

Romantic Feelings of Lady C---- --True Love--Disagreeable Neighbours--Credulity--Mademoiselle Delphine Gay--French Novels--French Critics--Eligible Mansions--Comforts of Seclusion--Genius of L.E.L.--The Comtesse d'O---- --A Brilliant Talker--Letter from Mrs. Hare--Extreme Hospitality--Longchamps--Exhibition of Spring Fashions--French Beauties--Animated Scene--Promenade at Longchamps--Extravagance of Mademoiselle Duthe--Modern Morals--_Cinq Mars_, by Comte Alfred de Vigny--His Style--Strictures on Mankind--The best Philosophy--Speech of Lord Grey--The Caterpillar--A Voracious Appet.i.te--A Refined Lady--_La Chronique du temps de Charles IX_, by Prosper Merimee--Estimation of Sir Walter Scott--Jules Janin--Injudicious Praise--Renewal of Youth--Self-Deception--Grey Hairs, 194.

CHAPTER XVIII.

Victor Hugo's _Dernier Jour d'un Cond.a.m.ne_--Value of Common Sense--Conscience--Cunning--Curiosity Shops on the Quai d'Orsay--Expensive and Tasteful Gifts--An Avaricious Vender--A Moral--Anonymous Scribbler--Weakness of Mind--Poems of Mrs. Hemans--The Minds of Genius--Poetesses of England--Arrival of Lord D---- --The Catholic Question carried--Irish prejudices--Letters from Absent Friends--Sir William Gell--The Archbishop of Tarentum--Discoveries at Pompeii--Novel of _The Disowned_--Advantages to be derived from the Perusal of Works of Fiction--Politics--Charles the Tenth unpopular--Charles the First--The House of Bourbon--"Uneasy lies the Head that wears a Crown"--The Duc de T---- --Mr. Hook's _Sayings and Doings_--_Visit to the Hotel Monaco_, 207.

CHAPTER XIX.

A new Resilience--Consolation in Sickness--House in the Rue de Matignon--Its Interior described--The Library--Drive in the Bois de Boulogne--Atmospheric Influence--The Rocher de Cancale--A _Diner de Restaurant--_A Gay Sight--Good Taste in Dress innate in Frenchwomen--Well-appointed Carriages--Soldier-like Air of the Male Population--Observation of the Emperor Napoleon--Characteristics of the British Soldier--National Anthem--Changes in the Journey of Life--Captain Marryat's _Naval Officer_--Performance of _La Tour d'Auvergne_--Letter of Carnot--Distinction awarded to Merit by Napoleon--National Glory--Effect of Enthusiasm--Villa of the d.u.c.h.esse de Montmorency--Residences on the Banks of the Thames--Bagatelle, the Seat of the Duc de Bordeaux--Earthly Happiness--Domestic Alterations--High Rents at Paris--Terrace and Aviary--Unsettled Slate, 219.

CHAPTER XX.

Unexpected Events--Mr. and Mrs. Mathews--Their son, Charles--Evening Party--Recitations and Songs--Pleasant Recollections--Visit to the _Jardin des Plantes_--Amusing Incident--Humorous Imitations--Intellectual Powers--Recourse to Reading--The Comte Montalembert--His Grief on the Death of his Daughter--Restraint imposed by Society--Fate of the Unfortunate--The Prince and Princess Soutzo--Particulars relative to them--Reverse of Fortune--Mr. Rogers and Mr. Luttrell--Memory of Lord Byron--His Lampoon on Rogers--Love of Sarcasm--Conversation of Mr. Luttrell--Lord John Russell--His Qualifications--Monsieur Thiers--Monsieur Mignet--His Vigorous Writings--Friendship between Thiers and Mignet--The Baron Cailleux--Visit to the Louvre--Taste for the Fine Arts--The Marquis and Marquise de B---- --Clever People--Lord Allen and Sir Andrew Barnard--The Culinary Art, 230.

CHAPTER XXI.

Mr. Rogers and Mr. Luttrell--Society of Refined Englishmen--Mercurial Temperament of the French--Opposite Characters--M. Erard's Collection of Pictures--Antique _Bijouterie_--Lord Pembroke--The Duke of Hamilton--Dr. Parr--Reproof of the Duc de Blacas--Monsieur Mignet--His great Knowledge--A Clever Man--Influence of Conscience--Abilities of Lord Palmerston--Lord Castlereagh--His Uncle, the late Marquess of Londonderry--Dangers of Fashion--Mr. Cutlar Fergusson--The Baron and Baroness de Ruysch--A Mind at Ease--Dreary Weather--Sad State of the Streets--Fogs--Fascination of Madame Gra.s.sini--Sledge Party--Sledge of the Duc de Guiche--That of Comte d'Orsay--Picturesque Night Scene--Revival of an Old Fashion--The Prince Polignac--His Amiable Manners--His Difficult Position, 242.

CHAPTER XXII.

Effects of Indisposition--Instability of Earthly Blessings--Captain William Anson (Brother of Lord Anson)--His varied Acquirements--The pretty Madame de la H---- --Prince Paul Lieven--Captain Cadogan (now Earl Cadogan)--Life at Sea--Visit to the d.u.c.h.esse de Guiche--Her Warmth and Gentleness of Manner--Political Crisis--The Conquest of Algiers--General Excelmans--Rash Measure--Charles the Tenth--His Ministry unpopular--Prosperity of France--Extorted Concessions-- Dissolution of the Chambers--The Public Press--Controversy--Commotion before the Hotel of the Ministre des Finances--The Ministers insulted--Counsel of the Duc de Guiche--Serious Aspect of Affairs--Crowds in the Streets--Household of Charles the Tenth--n.o.blesse of his Court--Confusion and Alarm--Riotous Conduct--Firing on the People--Formation of Barricades--Absence of the Civil Authorities--Nocturnal Impressions--Comtes d'Orsay and Valeski--Scene in the Place de la Bourse--The Corps-de-Garde set on Fire--Darkness in the Rue Rich.e.l.leu.--Further disturbances--Continued Depredations--Breach between the People and the Sovereign--Anecdote of Monsieur Salvandy, 225.

CHAPTER XXIII.

The Dead paraded through the Streets to inflame the Populace--The Shops closed--The Duc de Raguse censured--His Supineness--Devotion of the Duc de Guiche to his Sovereign--The Military Dispositions defective--Flag of the Bourbons--Troops in Want of Refreshment-- Destruction of the Royal Emblems--Disgusting Exhibition--Rumours of Fresh Disasters--Opinion of Sir Roger de Coverley--Revolutions the Carnivals of History--Observation of Voltaire--Doctors Pasquier and de Guise--Report of Fire arms--Paucity of Provisions--Female Courage--Domestic Entrenchment--Further Hostilities--Conflicting Rumours--The Sublime and the Ridiculous--Juvenal Intrepidity--Fatality--The Soldiers and the populace--Visit to Madame Craufurd--Barricade in the Rue Verte--Approaching Mob--Safe Arrival in the Rue d'Anjou--Terror of Madame Craufurd--Her Anxiety for her Relatives--Composure of the Marquis d'Aligre--Riotous a.s.sembly in the Rue Verte--Their Conduct towards the Author--Dangerous Symbol of Aristocracy--Arrival at Home, 282.

CHAPTER XXIV.

Familiarity of French Servants--Power of the People--Misguided Men--Further Rumours--Who are the People?--An Intruder--A Revolutionary Hero--The Tuileries and the Louvre taken--Sir Thomas Lawrence's Portrait of the Dauphin--The Terrible and the Comic--Trophies of Victory--The Palace of the Archbishop of Paris sacked--Concessions of Charles the Tenth--The d.u.c.h.esse de Berri--Lord Stuart de Rothesay--n.o.ble Conduct--The d.u.c.h.esse de Guiche--Her trying Situation--The Provisional Government--The Tri-coloured Flag--Meeting of the Deputies--Bitter Feeling towards the Royal Family Bravery of the Populace--Lafayette and his followers--Scene in the Street--"The Good Cause"--The wealthy M. Laffitte--Valuable Collections at Paris--Courageous Conduct of the d.u.c.h.esse de Guiche--Her Champions--Attack on the Hotel of the Duc de Guiche--Comte Alfred d'Orsay--Painful Position, 272.

CHAPTER XXV.

Sanctuary of Home--Madame C---- --Intoxicated Revolutionist--His Good-Nature--the Proprietor of a Wine-Shop--Politeness of all Cla.s.ses in France--Barracks in the Rue Verte--Difficulty of obtaining Admission--Agitation of Madame C---- --Comte Valeski--The Barracks attacked and taken--Dangerous Route--Impa.s.sable Gulf between the Sovereign and the People--The Royal Cause hopeless--A Fine Youth killed--Reflections on his Death--Number of Persons killed during the last Three Days--Details of a Battle--Rumour respecting the Dauphin--Interment of the Page--Fatality attending the Bourbons--Absence of the Dauphine--Revolt of the Troops--The d.u.c.h.esse de Guiche at St.-Germain--Her n.o.ble Bearing--The Duc de Gramont--The Chateau du Val, the Residence of the Princesse de Poix--The Fugitive d.u.c.h.ess--Popularity of Lafayette--The duc d'Orleans named Lieut.-General of France--Order restored--Abdication of Charles the Tenth--Renewed Excitement--Clamour against the King--A Fickle People--Wicked Rumours--The King quits Rambouillet--School of Adversity--Desertion by Friends--Route to Cherbourg, 294.

CHAPTER XXVI.

Rumour relative to the Son of Napoleon--Unsettled State of Affairs--Conflicting Rumours--The Duke of Orleans--Charms of a Crown--Aspect of the Champs-Elysees--Unsought popularity--Comte d'Orsay--Scene of Destruction--Shattered Trees--Pride of the People--Re-action after Excitement--Anecdote--The Jeweller's Wife--Pa.s.sion of the French--Playing at Soldiers--Enthusiasm of the _Garde Nationale_--Return to Paris of the d.u.c.h.esse de Guiche--Confidence of the Duc--Courage of the d.u.c.h.esse--General Gerard--The Duke of Orleans accepts the Crown--Popularity, an unstable Possession--Abilities of Louis-Philippe--Expectations formed of him--Person of Lafayette--Appearance in Public of the new Sovereign--The Queen--Her painful Position--The King of the French in the Place Vendome--Monsieur Mignet--His varied Acquirements--The celebrated General Peppe--Strange Infatuation--Charles the Tenth embarks at Cherbourg--Devotion to the exiled Bourbons--The English Popular at Paris--Mr.

Hamilton, Secretary of the Emba.s.sy--Brilliant conversation of M. Thiers--The Prince and Princesse Soutzo--Mr. Poulter--Lesson of Resignation--Departure for England--Leave-taking--Adieu to Paris, 294.