SUPPLEMENTUM IV.

AN ACCOUNT OF A VISIT TO GIVENDALE, NEWBY, AND MULWITH, ANCIENTLY IN THE CHAPELRY OF SKELTON, IN THE PARISH OF RIPON, IN THE WEST RIDING OF THE COUNTY OF YORK.

On Sunday, the 22nd day of April, 1901, it fell out that the writer found himself sojourning in the good City of Ripon; a city which a few years ago, calling its friends and neighbours together, kept, amid high festival, the one thousandth anniversary of its own foundation: at Ripon, around the time-honoured towers of whose hallowed Minster abidingly cling memories, strong and gracious, of canonized Saints and beloved Apostles.[A]

[Footnote A: St. Wilfrid, Archbishop of York and Apostle of Suss.e.x (634-709) and his friend St. Willibrord, Archbishop of Utrecht and Apostle of Holland.]

"Hail, smiling morn!" I exclaimed, on seeing at an early hour the bright sunshine stream through my chamber windows. On this day of rest and gladness will I hie me to the sites of the ancient roof-trees of those whose graves, parted by long distances of s.p.a.ce and time, are known to-day, for the most part, no longer to Man, but to Nature merely.

Not to you and to me, gentle reader, are those graves to-day known (save with one exception), but to the verdant gra.s.s, the crimson-tipped daisy, the golden celandine, who are pre-eminently faithful watchers by the dead. For steadfastly will _they_ remain watching until the daybreak of an endless day.[A]

[Footnote A: This exception is the grave of Mary Ward, the daughter, it will be remembered, of Marmaduke Ward and Ursula Wright, and, consequently, the niece of Christopher Wright and, I maintain, of Thomas Ward, the guide, philosopher, and friend of Lord Mounteagle. Mary Ward died at the old Manor House, Heworth, on the 20th January, 1645-46, and is buried at Osbaldwick, near York, where a stone, bearing a simple but touching inscription, is still to be seen by an increasing number of her admirers, Protestant and Catholic, the former of whom have ever styled her "that good lady, Mary Ward." The inscription on the gravestone bears out this view of this great-hearted, truly human, English gentlewoman. It runs thus: "To love the poore, persever in the same and live, dy, and rise with them was all the ayme of Mary Ward, who, having lived 60 years and 8 days, dyed the 20 of Jan., 1645." That gravestone might also fittingly bear a second inscription, consisting of those triumphant words of victory over death: "_Credo_; _Spero_; _Amo_" ("I believe; I hope; I love"). The Rev.

F. Umpleby, the Vicar of Osbaldwick, and his churchwardens guard the gravestone of Mary Ward with the most commendable care.]

Having duly paid my orisons to heaven in the ancient manner, and having broken my fast with such fare as my place of sojourning bestowed, I set out upon my quest.

I set forth alone, yet not alone; for mine was the companionship of lively historical ideas. But as soon as I had journeyed about one mile to the south-east of Ripon, I perforce came to a halt. For my footsteps, on a sudden, had been arrested by the ear being struck with that most musical of natural sounds--the sound of living, gurgling, murmuring waters.

I hearkened again, being infinitely pleasured by such natural music. And, mending my pace somewhat, soon found myself at Bridge Hewick, looking down from the parapet of the old grey bridge upon the rushing, boulder-broken, glancing waters of the Ure, which, after gladdening fruitful Wensleydale, flows through Ripon; and after skirting Givendale and Newby, and laving "the green fields of England," in front of Mulwith, hurries on towards Boroughbridge; thence to Myton, where, by the junction of the Ure and Swale, the Ouse[A] is formed, that majestic flood, which, with broad swelling tide, flows past the towers of York, the far-famed Imperial City, whose only peer in the western world is Rome.

[Footnote A: The winding Nidd, known to St. Wilfrid and dear to St.

Robert, pours itself into the Ouse at Nun Monkton, a few miles above York, and not far from historic Marston Moor.]

I say I set out upon my quest for Givendale, Newby, and Mulwith alone, yet not alone; because I had the companionship of lively historical ideas.

Thus much is true. And more: for romantic fancy conjured up visions before my mental gaze during that sunny Rest-Day morning,

"When all the secret of the spring Moved in the chambers of the blood,"[B]

[Footnote B: Tennyson's "In Memoriam."]

as I traversed those fair budding country-lanes, "made vocal by the song"

of a thousand warbling birds, and paradisaical

"With violets dim, But sweeter than the lids of Juno's eyes Or Cytherea's breath; pale primroses That die unmarried, ere they can behold Bright Phbus in his strength."[C]

[Footnote C: Shakespeare's "Winter's Tale."--Shakespeare may have possibly known, or at least heard of, Father John Gerard, S.J., the life-long friend of Mary Ward, and the first "to English" Lorenzo Scupoli's "_Spiritual Combat_." Any educated Buddhist or Mohammedan British subject who wishes to understand the genius of Christianity should carefully study the "_Spiritual Combat_." It will repay his pains.

Francis Arden, who was in the Tower of London, escaped from that prison along with Gerard during the night of 8th October, 1597. Francis Arden was probably a relative of Edward Arden, who was executed as a traitor on the 23rd December, 1583, in connection with the mysterious Somerville-Arden-Hall conspiracy against the life of Queen Elizabeth. The Shakespeares were justly proud of their connection with the Ardens, a fact which is evidenced by the well-known application of John Shakespeare (the poet's father) to the College of Heralds for the grant of a coat-of-arms that impaled and quartered the arms of the Ardens, of Wilmcote, his wife's family. I cannot doubt that the Ardens, of Wilmcote, Warwickshire, were of the same clan as the Ardens, of Park Hall, Warwickshire, to which family Edward Arden belonged, who was executed in 1583. To disallow the relationship of the Ardens, of Wilmcote, with the Ardens, of Park Hall (both in Warwickshire), simply because the former were less liberally endowed with worldly goods in the reign of Elizabeth than the latter, proves to demonstration that such disallowers, merely on such ground, have something yet to learn respecting the England of "Good Queen Bess"--and of every other England too.]

Yea, before my mind's eye I seemed to behold, ever and anon, riding towards and pa.s.sing me on horseback, to and fro, from east to west, and from west to east, the shadowy yet tall stately forms of Elizabethan gentlemen, in feathered hat, girded sword, and Ripon spurs; aye, and of Elizabethan gentlewomen likewise, in hooded cloak, white ruff, and pleated gown.

Sometimes the groups, methought, were accompanied by one showing a graver mien and more reverend aspect than the gentlefolk among whom he rode, although apparelled and equipped externally as they. The breviary, crucifix, and large jet rosary-beads which, in my phantasy, lay concealed within the last-named's breast, would betoken that he was a priest of the ancient faith of the English people, although at that period one of such a vocation was, by law, counted a traitor to his sovereign.

But my day-dreams vanished: from a vivid realization of a near approach to Givendale, which was announced by a new guide-post visible to the eye of flesh. A few paces further of walking, under the boughs of n.o.ble interlacing trees, brought me by the gate leading to the dwelling-house to-day known as Givendale--that historic name. The old hall occupied a site most probably a little to the north of the present Givendale, and was surrounded by a moat. Leland, writing in the reign of Henry VIII., describes it as "a fair manor place of stone." Lovely views does Givendale command of the valley of the Ure,[A] looking westward towards the sister valleys of the Nidd and Wharfe and Aire.

[Footnote A: Givendale, in the time of Sir Simon Ward, who lived in the reign of Edward II., was evidently the Wards' princ.i.p.al seat near Ripon; for Sir Simon Ward is described as of "Givendale and Esholt." Esholt is in the Parish of Otley. The arms of the Wards were azure, a cross patonce, or. Sir Simon Ward's daughter, Beatrice, was married to Walter de Hawkesworth, and, through her, the Hawkesworth estate, in the Parish of Otley, between Wharfedale and Airedale, came into the ancient family of Hawkesworth (see Text _ante_). To-day, the well-known Fawkes family, of Farnley (the friends of the artist, Turner, and of his great interpreter, Ruskin), own Hawkesworth Hall, a fine, ivy-clad, antique mansion looking towards Airedale. Campion was probably harboured here in the spring of 1581, and possibly also by the Hawkesworths, of Mitton, near c.l.i.theroe.]

A kind wayfarer, whom I chanced to meet near Givendale, pointed out to me the way to Skelton, Newby, and Mulwith.

I had to retrace from Givendale my steps for Skelton; but I soon found from a second friendly guide-post that my good friend of a few moments before had directed my eager steps aright.

The faithful following towards the south-east of the high road, running parallel with the woods of Newby on my right, brought me in due course to Skelton, a large limestone village, characteristic of that part of the West Riding of Yorkshire.

I walked down the town street of Skelton and found that the Park-gates of Newby entered from the village.

I pa.s.sed, on my left, the little chapel of Skelton, standing in its grave-yard, which, rebuilt in 1812, had taken the place of the chapel where once or twice a year, "after long imprisonment," it is probable that Marmaduke Ward--though not Elizabeth, his wife, nor Mary, nor any of his other children--"against his conscience" went to hear read the Book of Common Prayer, in order to avoid the terrible penalty of having "to pay the statute," that is, to pay 20 per lunar month by way of fine for "popish recusancy."[A]

[Footnote A: This would be about 160 in our money. Thirteen of these payments in one year would amount to about 2,080. Father Richard Holtby, S.J., was a friend of the Wards, and the priest who decided Mary Ward's "vocation" in Baldwin's Gardens, Holborn, London, after Marmaduke Ward had been released from his brief captivity in Warwickshire. (See "_Life of Mary Ward_," vol. i., p. 89.) Holtby speaks of Mary as "my daughter Warde." Now, Father Holtby, of Fryton, near Hovingham, has recorded that "after long imprisonment Mr. Blenkinsopp [of Helbeck, Westmoreland, no doubt], _Mr. Warde_, Mr. Trollope [of Thornley, in the County of Durham, no doubt], and Mrs. Cholmondeley [probably of Brandsby, near Easingwold], and more" were "overthrown," which clearly means became (temporarily at least) "Schismatic Catholics," by consenting to attend "the Protestant church." (See Morris's "_Troubles_," third series, p. 76.) This would be in the years 1593-94-95, or previously. Peac.o.c.k's "_List_" for 1604, under "Ripon," gives "Elizabeth wief of Marmaduke Ward," _but ominously no_ Marmaduke Ward. Therefore, like his relative Sir William Wigmore, Marmaduke Ward, it is almost certain, for a time frequented his parish church (contrary to what he deemed "the highest and best") perhaps once or twice a year. Poor fellow! he was, however, very strict in not allowing his children to do the like. (See "_Life of Mary Ward_," vol. i., pp. 30, 31.)]

The Newby Hall of to-day, the seat of R. C. De Grey Vyner, Esquire, is a grand structure, having been designed by Sir Christopher Wren about the year 1705. In the Park is the beautiful Memorial Church, built by the late Lady Mary Vyner, in memory of her son, Frederick George Vyner, who was slain by Greek brigands in the year 1870.[B]

[Footnote B: The late Dr. Stanley delivered, in Westminster Abbey, one of his beautiful and pathetic "Laments," after the sorrowful tidings reached England that this fine young Englishman, by a deed of violence, had pa.s.sed into the world of the "Unseen Perfectness."]

One mile from Newby is Mulwith.[A] It is reached by what evidently has been an avenue in days of yore, connecting the two manor-houses.

[Footnote A: R. C. De Grey Vyner, Esquire (brother-in-law to the Most Honourable the Marquis of Ripon, K.G., of Studley Royal, Lord Lieutenant of the North Riding of Yorkshire), to-day owns Givendale, Newby, and Mulwith. They are within about five miles of Ripon, and can be also reached from Boroughbridge.]

The old hall of Mulwith was most probably a castellated mansion, quadrangular in shape, with a Gothic chapel, gateway, drawbridge, and moat, pretty much like Markenfield Hall, near Ripon, at the present day.

There was a fire at Mulwith in the year 1593, we know from the "_Life of Mary Ward_." And it may be, that the hall was then razed to the ground and never afterwards rebuilt.[B]

[Footnote B: Mary Ward was born at Mulwith, in 1585 (see _ante_, p. 59).

Among her devoted scholars, who crossed the seas either with her or to her, were Susanna Rookwood, Helena Catesby, and Elizabeth Keyes, each respectively related, closely related, to the conspirators bearing those names.--See "_Life of Mary Ward_," vols. i. and ii.]

To-day Mulwith is a pleasant farmstead, built of brick with slated roof.

It is a two-storied, six-windowed dwelling, with homestead, gardens, and orchards all adjoining.[C]

[Footnote C: My friend Mr. Renfric Oates, of Maidenhead, Berks., kindly made me, when in Harrogate (in May, 1901), a sketch of Mulwith, which I value highly. Since then a relative of his has bestowed upon me a portrait of Mary Ward herself. So I am fortunate indeed. In the "_Life of Mary Ward_," by M. Mary Salome (Burns & Oates), the lady who so generously gifted me with a picture I can scarcely prize enough, there is a copy from the first of that remarkable series of paintings known as the Painted Life of Mary Ward, which represents Mary (then a little maiden betwixt two and three years old) toddling across the room, attired, as to her head, in a tiny close-fitting cap. This picture bears the following note in ancient German:--"'Jesus' was the first word of the infant, Mary, after which she did not speak for many months." Another of the famous pictures in the Painted Life is one representing Mary, at the age of thirteen, making her first Communion, at Harewell Hall, Dacre, Nidderdale. (I visited Harewell Hall, which is still owned by the Inglebies, of Ripley, as in the days of Mary Ward, on Wednesday, the 10th April, 1901, being courteously shown round the Hall by Miss Simpson, the tenant. The River Nidd flows at the foot of this ancient, picturesque dwelling.)]

In front of Mulwith still flows, as in the ancient days, the historic waters of the Ure.[A] On almost every side the eye is gladdened with woodland patches embroidering the horizon with that "sylvan scenery which never palls."[B]

[Footnote A: Near Newby, in February, 1869, Sir Charles Slingsby, Bart., of Scriven, when a-hunting was, with some other gentlemen, drowned in the act of crossing in a boat the River Ure, then swollen high through February floods. The event cast a profound gloom over Yorkshire for many a long day. (The writer was eight years of age when this melancholy catastrophe took place, and well does he remember the grief depicted on the faces of the good citizens of York on the morrow of that sad disaster.)]

[Footnote B: Lord Beaconsfield.]

Hence, at last I was come to my journey's end. For I had reached Mulwith, or Mulwaith, in the Parish of Ripon, whereof "Thomas Warde" is described, who married M'gery Slater, in the Church of St. Michael-le-Belfrey, York, on the 29th day of May, 1579.

Mrs. John Hardcastle and her son most kindly conducted me round the place once more; for I had visited Mulwith about ten years previously, with my sister, then approaching it from the east.

And on that Sunday evening (April 22nd, 1901), an evening calm and bright, to the sound of sweet church bells, again I satisfied historic feeling by the recollection of the Past; the sense whereof bore down upon me with a force too strong for words, "too deep," too high, "for tears."

"_Many waters cannot quench Love; neither can the floods drown it._"

SUPPLEMENTUM V.

AN ACCOUNT OF A VISIT TO GREAT PLOWLAND (ANCIENTLY PLEWLAND), IN THE PARISH OF WELWICK, HOLDERNESS, IN THE EAST RIDING OF THE COUNTY OF YORK.