The everything Thai cookbook.

by Jennifer Malott Kotylo.

Introduction.

THAILAND'S ROOTS can be traced back to the T'ai tribesmen who lived under the shadow of the Chinese in what are now the Chinese provinces of Yunnan and Sichuan, which lie along important east-west trading routes. The first true Thai kingdom was established in fourteenth century when the T'ai tribesmen created the Kingdom of Sukhothai, or "The Dawn of Happiness." During this era, the Thai adopted their first alphabet and the tenets of Buddhism.

According to depictions on the great Cambodian temple, Angor Wat, the Khmers, who have always been known as great warriors, used the Thai as mercenaries. They called the Thai Syams, meaning "golden skin color." It is believed that the Kingdom of Siam, as Thailand was known until 1939, derived its name from this word.

The thriving seaport city of Ayutthaya became the capital of Siam in 1350 and a monarchy was established. Portugal set up the first emba.s.sy there in 1511. By 1662, Holland, Denmark, England, and France all had emba.s.sies in the city.

The French began ama.s.sing troops in Siam beginning in 1675, intent on colonizing the area. But in 1688, the Siamese forcibly removed the farang (slang for "French" at the time, the word now means "foreigner") from the country and sealed its borders for 150 years. Strikingly, Thailand is the only Asian country never to have been colonized by a European power, although it has been occupied by the Khmer, the Burmese, and the j.a.panese.

During his reign from 1824 to 1851, King P'ra Nang Klao began developing trade with China and reopening the borders of the kingdom. The 1930s saw a wave of democracy surge over the country, and in 1932 a const.i.tutional monarchy was formed. Soon after, the country was officially renamed Thailand, meaning "Land of the Free." Today, 75 percent of the population are ethnic Thais, roughly 11 percent are Chinese, and 3.5 percent are Malays. The rest is a combination of Vietnamese, Khmer, and various others. There are only a very small number of non-Asian permanent immigrants.

Geography The landma.s.s of Thailand is approximately 197,400 square miles (a bit larger than the state of California) and is shaped like the head of an elephant. The "trunk" of the elephant extends southward down the Malay Peninsula to Singapore and is sandwiched between the Indian Ocean and the Gulf of Thailand. The "head" is bordered by Burma and Laos to the north, Cambodia and Laos to the east, Burma to the west, and the Gulf of Thailand to the south.

Thailand is mountainous in its northernmost and southernmost regions, with the center of the country forming a delta that drains into the Gulf of Thailand. Thailand has over 1,600 miles of coastline and is rich with internal waterways, ponds, lakes, and rice paddies.

Weather Thailand has a monsoon climate. The peninsula has two seasons: wet from November through July, and dry from August through October. The mainland experiences three seasons: wet from May through November, dry and cool from November through February, and dry and hot from March through April. Yet, these definitions are deceiving. From a Western perspective, Thailand is hot and humid all year round; it just varies in degrees. The only real escape from the heat is heading to the mountains.

Agriculture Thailand's fertile delta region, in combination with its hot and humid climate, makes for very good growing conditions, especially for rice. Archeologists believe that what is now central Thailand was the site of the first true agriculture on the planet and that rice has been cultivated there since between 4000 and 3500 B. C. Agricultural products account for 66 percent of Thailand's exports, and Thailand produces 36 percent of the world's rice. Other important products include coconut, tapioca, rubber, sugar, pineapple, jute, soybeans, and palm oil. Sixty-five percent of the Thai labor force is involved in agriculture.

Food Culture Harmony is the name of the game when it comes to Thai cooking. The balance of sweet, salty, sour, bitter, and hot flavors is essential, not only within most dishes, but also within the context of the overall Thai meal. The key flavoring agents found in a Thai kitchen include coconut, lime, chili, garlic, ginger, cilantro, and dried fish (to make fish sauce). These ingredients are as basic as salt and pepper are to a Western kitchen. All of these foodstuffs are indigenous to the Asian continent with one notable exception: chilies, which the Portuguese introduced to Asia in the sixteenth century after "discovering" them in the New World. This is perhaps one of the most profound influences on Thai cuisine, as modern Thai cooking is almost impossible to imagine without the heat of chilies. However, the Portuguese are not the only people to have significantly influenced Thai cuisine as we know it today. The Chinese introduced the concept of stir-frying, the Indians brought curry, and the Indonesians introduced numerous spices.

Thai cuisine reflects the country's ample waterborne resources. Both salt.w.a.ter and freshwater fish are eaten in abundance. Fish sauce is as common as ketchup and is used as a condiment, a salt subst.i.tute, and a general flavoring agent. Shrimp paste is used as we use anchovy paste, and dried fish are eaten as snacks.

The cuisine also reflects Thailand's tropical climate with an almost endless supply of exotic fruits that are eaten in salads, savory dishes, desserts, and by themselves. But by far the most important foodstuff in Thailand is rice. It is farmed everywhere and comes in endless varieties suitable for every growing condition from mountaintops to floodplains. It is Thailand's number one export.

Rice is so important in Thai culture that the word for rice is the same as the word for food. It is eaten with every meal and made into endless forms, from gruel to beverages to puffed cakes and desserts. Rice is believed to have a soul, called Mae Posop, or "The Rice Mother." She is born from rice, becomes pregnant when the rice flowers, and gives birth to rice. Rice farmers pay homage to Mae Posop, offering her food and shelter throughout the year.

Rice is a type of gra.s.s, the grain of which can only be extracted by milling or pounding. Thai people take great pride in the quality of their rice, and the whiter and more perfumed the better. For this reason, Jasmine rice is the long-grained variety preferred above all others.

Meat, although readily consumed, is not the centerpiece of a Thai meal, but instead is looked upon as a special treat. Theravada Buddhism, which forbids the killing of animals but not the eating of meat, is practiced by 95 percent of the population of Thailand. To make meat more palatable to the Buddhist psyche, meat is almost always shredded or cut into very small pieces. Rarely will you find a steak or chop served.

Dinner in Thailand is not served in courses, but rather soups, starters, rice, noodles, side dishes, and main courses are all served together to allow the cook to enjoy his or her guests. Only dessert is served separately. Condiments such as dried chilies, chili paste, chopped peanuts, fish sauce, and soy sauce are usual additions to the Thai table, just as salt and pepper are in the West. Fresh fruits are the typical end to a Thai meal. Desserts as we know them are usually served only at the end of a fancy banquet.

Heavy in fish, vegetables, fruits, and rice, and low in meats and dairy, Thai cuisine is just what the doctor ordered. These foods are rich in carotinoids, flavonoids, and antioxidative vitamins, all known to reduce cancer. In fact, the Thai have the lowest incidence of digestive tract cancer of all people.

Some Cooking Basics The following are some guidelines, which should make your cooking experience more satisfying no matter what your level of expertise. They are not all Thai-food specific, but are all important for the recipes in this book.

- Read the recipe in its entirety before you begin - twice is even better.

- Make sure you have all of the ingredients, pans, and utensils, have enough time, and understand the methodology.

- Always use seasonal ingredients - out of season produce is often tasteless and has an off texture. Inferior ingredients lead to inferior dishes. If the ingredients you are looking for are substandard, either choose a subst.i.tute ingredient or a subst.i.tute recipe.

- Be prepared. Have your ingredients prepped before you begin cooking - veggies diced, sliced, etc., dry and wet ingredients properly measured, etc.

- Use homemade stocks, curries, and sauces when at all possible: They will give you the greatest depth of flavor. But if time is of the essence, by all means use some prepared products that are on the market. Some of them are quite good.

- When measuring dry ingredients, level them off with the straight edge of a knife.

- Use standard measuring spoons, cups, etc.

- Wash all vegetables and fruits thoroughly and pat or spin dry.

- Take meat out of the refrigerator about fifteen minutes before you are going to cook it, allowing it to come to room temperature. It will cook faster and more evenly.

- Use freshly ground pepper, if you can. Pepper begins to lose its flavor and pungency as soon as it is ground.

Basic Cooking Methods The following are some of the more common cooking methods used, not only in Thai cooking, but throughout the world. A brief understanding of these methods will help you with all of your cooking.

Stir-Frying and Sauteing Stir-frying and sauteing are very similar cooking processes that involve cooking in an open pan over high temperatures and with a minimal amount of cooking oil. Sauteing is usually done in either a slope-sided gourmet pan (or skillet) or a straight-sided saute pan. Stir-frying done in a wok.

The best meats for either method are boneless chicken; tender of beef, pork, or lamb; fillets of fish; and sh.e.l.lfish. For stir-fries, should be cut into thin, bite-sized pieces to allow for quick and cooking. Thicker pieces can be browned in a saute pan and then cooking in the oven at a low heat. Vegetables should also be thinly or cut into bite-sized pieces.

Cooking fats should be relatively free of flavor and have a high point. The best are canola oil and peanut oil. (If you insist on using b.u.t.ter for flavor, use equal parts of oil and b.u.t.ter.) The oil must but not smoking before you begin to cook. To check, you can sprinkle drop or two of water into the pan: It should spatter. Please be careful! spatters can burn! Shaking the pan for sauteing or quickly tossing ingredients in stir-frying prevents the food from sticking as it sears.

Grilling and Broiling Grilling and broiling are methods by which food is cooked exposing it to direct (usually intense) heat over hot coals or some heat source. This method is typically fast; the direct heat chars surface of the food, giving it great flavor. The fuel used in a grill impart a nuance of flavor. Adding aromatic wood chips such as or applewood or certain herbs such as lemongra.s.s or fennel will additional flavor tones. (This is not an option when using a broiler.) The grill itself may be traditional, using some type of charcoal, in some instances electric. The best grills will allow for somewhat controllable heat. To prepare your grill for cooking, heat it until and then use a long-handled brush to sc.r.a.pe away any residue. Just before placing food on the grill, rub a wad of paper towels dipped in oil onto the grate. This will significantly reduce sticking.

Almost all food can be grilled: tender cuts of meat, poultry, game birds, seafood, fish, or vegetables. The food will grill more evenly if it is allowed to come to room temperature just before cooking. Seasoning, especially with salt, should be done just prior to cooking, as salt tends to draw out moisture, rendering your final product less juicy. In addition, foods that are naturally low in fat should be brushed with oil or b.u.t.ter basted with a sauce to keep them from drying out. Marinades are way to add additional flavor to grilled foods.

To test when your grilled meat is done, it is best to use an instant-thermometer. Alternatively, you can insert the point of a knife to visually see if your food is done. Always remember that your food continues cook even after you remove it from the grill. In addition, meats will reabsorb some of their juices after they are done cooking. Make sure allow your meats to rest for five to ten minutes before serving.

Cooking in Water Simmering and poaching are both techniques that involve cooking food in liquid. With both techniques, the cooking liquid is first brought a boil and then the heat is reduced in order to obtain less active bubbling. Poaching should have slightly less bubbling action than simmering, but it's a tough call when something is simmering versus poaching. Some recipes call for a covered cooking vessel, others open one. As something simmers or poaches, it is important to skim surface every once in a while to remove the residue that acc.u.mulates. Fish, rice, and poultry are all good candidates for poaching and simmering.

Only a few foods are actually boiled - noodles and potatoes being most obvious. Boiling water is also used to blanch or parboil fruits vegetables before they are exposed to another cooking method or want to keep them tender-crisp. Blanching involves placing the ingredients in boiling water briefly and then plunging them into cold water to retain color and flavor or to help remove their skins. Ingredients that parboiled actually stay in the boiling water a bit longer, in order to slightly soften them.

Another cooking process that involves water is steaming. With this method, the ingredients are not in the water, but rather above it on a rack. The pot is always covered. Steaming is a very gentle cooking method and it is usually the most nutritious. Steamed ingredients don't lose much of their nutrients, texture, or individual flavor. Vegetables and sticky rice are perfect candidates for steaming.

Roasting Roasting is another core cooking method used around the world. a very simple method performed in an oven, usually with high heat. can also use indirect heat from a grill and obtain similar results.) Essentially anything can be roasted: meats, fishes, vegetables, or fruits.

Roasting meat involves seasoning it in some fashion, sometimes searing it before you place it in the oven and sometimes basting it it cooks - depending on the recipe - and always letting it rest. Resting allows the meat to reabsorb some of its juices, making your roast juicy and easier to carve. To rest your roast, you simply remove it the oven, cover it with foil, and let it sit.

A very handy gadget to have when roasting is an ovenproof meat thermometer. This will let you know when your roast is done to your liking, without cutting into it. For an accurate reading, you must insert tip of the thermometer into the deepest part of the meat without touching bone, fat, or the bottom of the pan. Roasting charts usually come the thermometers.

What You'll Need Knife Types and Their Uses PARING KNIFE - a short-bladed knife (usually 2 to 4 inches) used trim fruits and vegetables a short-bladed knife (usually 2 to 4 inches) used trim fruits and vegetables CHEF'S KNIFE - a medium-bladed knife used for chopping, slicing, mincing a medium-bladed knife used for chopping, slicing, mincing SLICING KNIFE - a long-bladed knife, either smooth-edged or serrated used for slicing meats or breads a long-bladed knife, either smooth-edged or serrated used for slicing meats or breads Other useful knives include: boning, utility, cleaver, and fillet.

Specialty Utensils Thai cooking really doesn't require a kitchen-full of fancy gadgets: Most often you will use standard mixing bowls and measuring cups, and pans, wooden and slotted spoons, and knives. But there are a items that will make your Thai cooking easier and more enjoyable. you are in the mood to splurge, here's the wish list: WOK - a high-sided, sloping, small-bottomed pan - the quintessential Asian utensil a high-sided, sloping, small-bottomed pan - the quintessential Asian utensil RICE COOKER - an electric gizmo that takes the guessing out of an electric gizmo that takes the guessing out of FOOD PROCESSOR - the workhorse of the kitchen when it comes mixing, chopping, pureeing, and shredding the workhorse of the kitchen when it comes mixing, chopping, pureeing, and shredding BLENDER - great for making sauces and purees great for making sauces and purees CHINOIS - a sieve perfect for straining stocks, sauces, and purees a sieve perfect for straining stocks, sauces, and purees HAND BLENDER - great for making sauces and purees right in the pot great for making sauces and purees right in the pot COLANDER - perfect for straining noodles perfect for straining noodles MORTAR and PESTLE - a stone bowl and club used to crush spices and herbs a stone bowl and club used to crush spices and herbs MANDOLINE - an extremely sharp utensil used for precise paper-cutting an extremely sharp utensil used for precise paper-cutting

Using a Blender with Hot Ingredients Hot (as in temperature, not spiciness) ingredients in a blender can expand causing its lid to blow off. Instead of the lid, use a kitchen towel as a cover.

Basic Food Subst.i.tutions There are three very common ingredients in Thai cooking that can be rather difficult to find in the United States. Luckily they have very inexpensive and common subst.i.tutions. In this book I have always used brown sugar in place of palm sugar, ginger in place of galangal, and vegetable oil in place of peanut oil. Subst.i.tutions for some common Thai ingredients are found in the following chart.

THAI INGREDIENT.

SUBSt.i.tUTION.

Fish sauce Soy sauce Cilantro Parsley Kaffir lime leaves Lime peel Lemongra.s.s Lemon peel Rice vinegar Dry sherry or white vinegar Long beans Green beans Thai eggplant Green peas Shallots Small onions Homemade curry paste Store-bought curry paste

[image]Thai Curry Pastes, Marinades, and Other Concoctions

Green Curry Paste - 1

Green Curry Paste - 2

Red Curry Paste - 1

Red Curry Paste - 2

Southern (or Ma.s.saman) Curry Paste

Northern (or Jungle) Curry Paste

Chili Tamarind Paste

Yellow Bean Sauce

Minty Tamarind Paste

Black Bean Paste

Thai Marinade - 1

Thai Marinade - 2

Thai Marinade - 3

Asian Marinade - 1

Asian Marinade - 2

Tamarind Marinade

Coconut Marinade

Malaysian Marinade

Thai Vinegar Marinade

Lemongra.s.s Marinade

Shredded Fresh Coconut