[40] This church had been dedicated to Saint Michael, but upon Charles Duke of Lorraine having removed the relicks of his mother Sainte Gudule, and placed them in this church, it is, in consequence, now called Sainte Gudule.

"The choir contains many fine paintings by Rubens, Vand.y.k.e, Philip of Champagne, Artois de Haese, Mille, Janssens, and others. The sculpture is also fine, produced by the chisels of Vervoont, Van Nerven, P. Danckers, Van Delen, Henry du Quesnoy, Voorspoel, and others. The windows of the chapel of the miraculous host, which is within the aisles of Sainte Gudule, are formed of stained gla.s.s, and are exceedingly fine; they were executed by Diepenbeke, Rogiers, De Vrint, and C. Floris. Many of them were presents from crowned heads, from John XI. king of Portugal, Maria III. queen of Hungary, Francis I. king of France, and the emperor Charles V.; the window presented by Charles is behind the altar of the miraculous Host.

"Many sovereign princes are interred within the walls of Saint Gudule, among others the Archduke Albert, sovereign of the _Pays Bas_, and his d.u.c.h.ess Isabella Clara Eugenia, Infanta of Spain.

Here is the mausoleum of Ernest, Archduke of Austria. John II.

Duke of Brabant, and his wife Margaret, daughter of Edward King of England, lie here interred. The tomb is in the choir, it is of black marble, a lion of bronze, weighing six thousand pounds, couches on the monument; the lion is the well-known heraldic emblazonment of the house of Brabant.

"In the nave of Sainte Gudule are fourteen admirable statues carved in stone, which are upwards of ten feet in height; they represent our Saviour, the Virgin, and twelve apostles. Four of them are readily distinguished as having been executed by the admirable skill of a first-rate artist--they are the productions of Quesnoy. The altar of the choir is exceedingly fine, and is princ.i.p.ally composed of white marble. Within the same choir formerly were held two chapters of the order of the Golden Fleece, one was in 1435, and the other in 1516. Here Charles V. conferred that order on Francis I. King of France.

"In nearly the centre of the choir stands that splendid and exquisite specimen of sculpture in wood, the celebrated pulpit, which formerly had belonged to the Jesuits of Lovaine. It is of carved oak, and was executed by Henry Verbrugger of Antwerp. The subject is the expulsion of Adam and Eve from Paradise by the Archangel, who in so doing extends the flaming sword. The grief and compunction of our first parents is finely conceived: while the angel expels Adam and Eve, his left hand gracefully extended, with the right he smites with his sword the head of the serpent, which is represented as eagerly devouring the apple. In front, and on the convexity of the pulpit, an angel upholds a medallion of the Virgin and the Child; and in the concavity within is the station of the preacher. Behind the pulpit arises the tree of life, two boughs of which, curving right and left, support a circular canopy, which is formed to represent clouds. The dove, as typical of the Holy Spirit, is observed hovering over the preacher's head; groups of cherubim are wreathed around, and the canopy is crested by upright figures of the Virgin, the Saviour, and St. John. I have been thus minute, my dear friend, as it would indeed be difficult to speak of this n.o.ble piece of carving in sufficient terms of adequate praise.

"The governor's palace, the ancient residence of kings, who were sovereigns of the _Pays Bas_, is situated in the park. It is an old and venerable pile, with large gothic windows and various grotesque decorations. It is called _La Palais de la Cour_.[41]

The building was begun in 1300 by John II. Duke of Brabant; in 1452 it was enlarged by Philip the Good, and completed by his successors.

[41] This grand and venerable pile was destroyed by fire 4th February, 1731, which raged with such violence and rapidity that in a few hours the whole pile was entirely consumed. It was with the greatest difficulty that the Archd.u.c.h.ess of Austria, Maria Elizabeth, eldest sister of Charles VI., and _gouvernante_ of the _Pays Bas_, escaped with her life, having only had time to draw on one stocking and to fling her robe around her. The young and beautiful Countess of Vlefeld, one of her ladies of honour, perished in the flames.

"On entering the palace one beholds a saloon of extraordinary grandeur, from whence a gallery leads to the chapel, the architecture of which is extremely fine, and of admirable symmetry. The other apartments in the palace are extremely s.p.a.cious, and of corresponding magnificence. The exterior of the building is adorned with cupolas, towers, pinnacles, &c. A large area presents itself in front of the palace, which is handsomely enclosed by ornamented ball.u.s.trades of stone, in good taste, and at intervals columns arise, which are surmounted by statues of various ill.u.s.trious characters, viz.--Charles V., his son Philip, the Duke of Burgundy, &c. &c. At the extremity of the park, near to the gate of Louvaine, stands a handsome house, which the Emperor Charles V. caused to be built subsequent to his abdication.

"The park, which presents an agreeable and fashionable promenade, is laid out as a large garden with the greatest taste, intersected in every direction by wide and handsome walks, on each side adorned with lofty overshadowing lindens. The grounds are interspersed with numerous sunny lawns, ornamented with fountains and numerous busts and statues, some of which are exquisitely sculptured. There is a Magdalen by Quesnoy--the statues of Diana and Narcissus by Gripelo--Venus and her doves by Ollivier, &c. In the centre of the park stands a magnificent marble basin, well stocked with gold and silver fish. On either side of the princ.i.p.al walk, which is a fashionable promenade, extend deep valleys, shaded by n.o.ble lime trees, which afford a cool and agreeable retreat from the summer's sun.

"There is another promenade which is fully as frequented as the park, called '_l'Alle Verte_.' It is situated on the right bank of the ca.n.a.l, which communicates with Antwerp, &c. This walk and drive extend a mile and half from the walls or ramparts of the city. The view from the ca.n.a.l bridge is exceedingly beautiful.

This public walk is delightfully shaded by a triple row of trees planted on the banks of the ca.n.a.l. The scene is rendered peculiarly delightful by the prospect which is presented to the spectator's eye, the numerous villas in the vicinity, the pa.s.sing and repa.s.sing of boats on their way to the cities of the _Pays Bas_ and of Holland. These objects cannot fail to please, seen through the extensive vista of the lofty limes, which opportunely afford a cool and covered shade to the merry groups a.s.sembled in this favourite spot. Here crowds of fashionables a.s.semble before dinner, and revisit its walks in the cool of the summer evenings.

The _boulevards_, or ramparts, which are planted with rows of trees on each side, also form an agreeable walk or ride.

"The halls of _La Palais de la Cour_ are adorned with a valuable and select collection of paintings by the most celebrated and first-rate Flemish masters. The library, which is open to the public, is placed in the same building, and contains one hundred and twenty thousand volumes. Among the ma.n.u.scripts are a Greek Bible, a Terence, a Virgil, and a Cicero.

"There are many handsome palaces in Brussels: one belongs to the house of Orange, another to the Countess de Soissons, Prince Vaudement, Prince de la Tour et Taxis; palace de Berghem, de Ligne, d'Epinoy, de Rubempre, d'Aremberg, &c., &c. Some beautiful gardens--de Croy, de Hornes, de Westerloo, &c. &c.

"Many of the streets are of considerable extent, containing lofty houses of handsome appearance, and withal having curiously decorated grotesque gables. The exterior of some of the houses are plastered or painted white, some are coloured yellow, and others a pale green colour.

"I must yet revert to the great market-place to observe (for I was too much absorbed in my account of _La Maison de Ville_ to do so before) that it is one of the most remarkable in Europe. It is a regular parallelogram of great dimensions. Although the four sides differ extremely in form and architecture, yet, nevertheless, they unite to form a n.o.ble _coup d'oeil_. Some inimitable, pieces of sculpture adorn it.[42]

[42] These fine pieces of sculpture were destroyed by the revolutionary Goths and Vandals, in 1793-4.

"The number of churches, chapels, convents, and monasteries in Brussels, is very considerable. _Le grand Beguinage_, which is the most remarkable, is a nunnery which was founded by _Sainte Begge_, daughter of Pepin of Landen, from which lady it derives its name.

This inst.i.tution resembles a small village; it is surrounded with walls, and enclosed with a fosse. It contains a number of handsome streets, where every nun has allotted her own dwelling. The usual number of the sisterhood is from seven to eight hundred, and sometimes more. Every one takes charge of her own property. The vow of chast.i.ty is taken during the time of their residence in the Beguinage; and when they leave the nunnery they are free to marry.

They are governed by four superiors chosen from their own body, and a curate chosen by the Bishop of Antwerp.

"The territory of Brussels includes a number of abbeys, convents, and priories, of different religious orders. All these monasteries are magnificently built, and their churches are very fine.

"The forest of Soignies contains three priories of regular canons of the order of Saint Augustin:--1. The monastery of Groendal. 2.

The priory of Rouge Cloitre: in the library of this priory there is a considerable collection of ancient ma.n.u.scripts.--3. The priory of the Seven Fountains.

"The beautiful forest of Soignies extends almost to the very gates of Brussels. It contains sixteen thousand five hundred and twenty-six acres. It is stored with abundance of game, and princes have often within its extended wilds partaken the divertis.e.m.e.nts of the chase. This n.o.ble forest belongs to the corporation of Brussels. It supplies wood in very great abundance as well for timber as for fuel.

"The princ.i.p.al commerce of Brussels consists in camlets, fine lace, and tapestry. The population is estimated at about fifty thousand inhabitants.[43] The ordinary language spoken here is either Flemish or French; and indeed I may observe that the French spoken here (always, of course, excepting _les gens de condition_) is, in sooth, ordinary enough.

[43] The population of Brussels at the present day is estimated at 80,000.

"I have observed some curious customs here, which according as they recur to my recollection I shall detail to you, without a.s.suming any regular mode or form.

"In Brussels, and in other Belgic towns, I have seen dogs of the wolf species or breed harnessed to small carriages, sometimes three abreast; to others four, or even five abreast, and drawing very considerable burdens. I have often seen baskets of fish, &c.

thus conveyed.

"The kermise, or village-fair, is maintained with full as much _esprit_ as ever it had been in the days of Teniers, Ostade, or Van Bredael. Music and dancing are the favourite pastimes of the Belgians of all cla.s.ses and descriptions; and indeed such is the extreme infatuation for dancing that it is pursued more as a pa.s.sion than sought as an amus.e.m.e.nt. The lower cla.s.s of the Belgians are extremely partial to garlands of living flowers.

Often these are suspended on a pole or tree, around which they dance; and often are garlands to be seen suspended on cords across a street, in the manner that lamps are hung in the good city of Paris.

"The Belgic brazen pitcher is still to be seen either bearing home milk to the dairy, or drawing water from the numerous wells in the vicinity of this capital. The shape and form of this aforesaid pitcher is familiar to those conversant with the paintings of Rubens, Cuyp,[44] Jourdaens, and Equilinus, in many of which it is introduced.

[44] Jacob Gerritze was called Kuyp, or Cuyp.

"The Brussellois dames wear the wedding ring in different guise from what we do. We wear it on the third finger of the _left_ hand, because it is said, or sung, or supposed to communicate with the human heart by means of some nerve or vein unseen; and the idea is not devoid of prettiness. Here, however, the wedding ring is worn on the third finger of the _right hand_, without any reason whatever being a.s.signed for the custom that I could ever hear or learn. Rings, it seems, here const.i.tute a favourite article in the dress of our s.e.x, the fingers being often covered with them. The lower cla.s.s of females, citizens' daughters and wives, and servant-maids, wear long, heavy pendants, or ear-rings, made of some yellow metal to resemble gold, and so weighty that one's pity is ever on the stretch, lest the patient's ears should succ.u.mb under the burden. Large heavy crosses are likewise worn of the same kind of metal, probably gilt bra.s.s, and suspended from a chain of the same _materiel_.--Their peripatetic dress too is somewhat curious. They wear a veil, or mantle rather, of black stuff or silk, which head habiliment had been introduced by the Spaniards. It is called '_La faille_,' and is worn like the _coiffeure_ placed on the Madona heads of Carlo Dolce, Trevisano, Caracci, and Raffaele.

"The walking dress of the _bourgeois_ is curious in its way, but not so remarkable as the dress of the female as before described.

His head is enveloped in a hat of a size somewhat so c.u.mbersome that it resembles the kaplaken of a Dutch schipper, save and except with this essential difference, that it is encompa.s.sed by a yellow tinsel band, and turned up in front _a la cotume Espagnle_. Around the neck and shoulders is flung a large cloak, somewhat resembling, and evidently borrowed from the _capa ropa larga_ of the Spaniard. A Flemish pipe, with its numerous circling curves, is stuck in his lips, from whence clouds of smoke are whiffed forth as he onward wends his way. The cloak reaches to the knee; thence downward leather gaiters make their appearance; and a cane obtruded from the dexter arm completes the walking habiliments of the Brussels' _bourgeois_ of the present day.

"With almost unspeakable delight I told you of my dear Lord's return. But now, my dear, pray prepare for more wonders still!

Know then that at length we have ascertained who 'the unknown knight of Chester walls' proves to be. Oh, it is, my dear, positively a tale of romance--an incident in chivalry. He is indeed, I do a.s.sure you,

----"'No carpet knight That spent his youth in groves or pleasant bowers.'

No! there is the spirit of romance with the truth of history commingled in his story.

"But, my dear, the post is going off. The duke, who has only just returned home, has but within these few moments communicated this pa.s.sing strange event, which you shall have positively and particularly detailed in my next.

"In great haste, ever, my dearest Madam, I remain most cordially and affectionately thine,

(_Signed_) KATHERINE TYRCONNEL."

CHAPTER IX.

Quanta vis amicitiae sit, ex hoc intelligi maxime Potest: quod ex infinita societate generis humani, Quam conciliavit ipsa natura, ita contracta res Est, et adducta in angustum, ut omnis caritas Aut inter duos, aut inter paucos jungeretur.

CICERO DE AMICITIA.

TRANSLATION.

How great the powerful influence of friendship is may chiefly be understood from this, that throughout the numerous society of the human race, which nature herself hath knitted together, yet still so contracted is the s.p.a.ce and narrowed into so small a compa.s.s, that all friendship rests entirely a.s.sociated either between two individuals, or solely amid the few.

CICERO ON FRIENDSHIP.

The Duke of Tyrconnel set forth from his splendid mansion in the _Rue Ducale_, one sunny afternoon to take his usual equestrian exercise; and while riding onward upon the _boulevards_, or ramparts of Brussels, which are so delightfully shaded by trees, and enjoying the beautiful scenery that surrounded him, his horse was rapidly pacing in a full trot, and his Grace was proceeding without any attendant; when it so chanced that his horse picked up a stone in one of the fore-feet. The duke on the instant sprang from his saddle to free the horse's hoof from this impediment; and while employed in the act, a stranger of n.o.ble deportment and appearance advanced, who had been also enjoying the fineness of the day in promenading this shady avenue. He most courteously advanced, and tendered with peculiar politeness, and all the meet grace and due courtesy of chivalry, to a.s.sist the duke by holding the check-rein of the bridle. When, surprising to behold, the horse almost instantly loudly neighed, and joyfully licked the stranger's hand! Our readers will readily guess that this distinguished stranger, whom this n.o.ble animal so instinctively recognised, was no other than his late valiant master, the truly gallant colonel of the brave Brandenburgh hussars, who had presented, upon their parting on the plain of battle, this n.o.ble charger to the ill.u.s.trious duke. The duke and the stranger had met each other as deadly foes in the direful day of civil war; and in the dreadful onset of personal combat, performing each prodigies of valour, they encountered as foes, yet they parted as friends!--respect, admiration, and love occupying those hearts so lately swollen by hostile pa.s.sions. They now were both mutually rejoiced once more to meet, and soon were locked in a cordial embrace.

"This," said the duke, "certainly, gallant friend unknown, was wholly unexpected--unhoped for quite!"