Such were the Bishop of Chester and his lady, to whom the d.u.c.h.ess and her train now presented themselves, and by whom they were most warmly and affectionately received.

"Welcome! most heartily welcome, my good, excellent, worthy Lady d.u.c.h.ess," exclaimed the bishop, warmly taking her Grace by the hand; at the same moment almost she was cordially embraced by Mrs. Cartwright.

"A kind and warm welcome to you and yours," continued the bishop. Then looking intently at Adelaide, he pressed warmly her hand, saying to the d.u.c.h.ess, "Beshrew my heart, but, lady, thy daughter is most pa.s.sing fair, exceeding fair; nor hath fame in aught out-heralded the Lady Adelaide's beauty!"

The d.u.c.h.ess made a low courtesy, and thanked his lordship for his polite gallantry. "But," said the d.u.c.h.ess in an under tone, "when, my Lord, you shall know more of my daughter, I trust that you will like her mind better then than now you like her visage." Next, aloud, her Grace said, "My daughter has reason, my lord, to be proud of your praise, for _laudari a laudato_--your lordship knows the rest."

"No, my Lady d.u.c.h.ess, no! I am no orator, and, I thank G.o.d, no politician! I am no great man, albeit I am a peer spiritual, and so forth; therefore my praise on that score can be of but little value indeed!"

"Not so, my Lord, the praise of a good man ever is of value."

The bishop bowed. His Lordship next proposed a walk in his garden; and then they adjourned to Chester walls, which closely adjoin the palace, to promenade until dinner. Adelaide looked to the left and right, but "the unknown knight of Chester walls" was not to be seen. Upon their return to the episcopal palace dinner was ready, and soon smoked upon the hospitable board. It was a sumptuous entertainment. The bishop having helped the ladies, soon discovered that Sir Patricius was in complete possession of the _scavoir vivre_.

"I warmly recommend you; Sir Placebo--Sir Patricius, I beg your pardon--to have some Severn salmon, or some choice dories, caught in the Llyn; and I do think, above all, that I can speak in positive commendation of some stewed carp, which is truly delicious. I saw them caught yesterday (for I am fond of fishing) in that _Piscosus amnis_, which we call the Vyrnyn."

"No, my Lord, I thank you, I have just made a grand a.s.sault, _vi et furca_, upon your venison, which is actually the finest I have ever enjoyed. The lean is so ruddy and the fat is so white, that I think, my Lord, I shall just try a _modic.u.m_ more, [the fourth time he was helped!] and some sweet sauce withal!"

Indeed the opinion and "great capabilities," to use his own phrase, of Sir Patricius Placebo, at a well-chosen dinner, were never yet, even by his enemies, considered as apocryphal; and in the culinary calendar this notable day was deserving of a mark of approbation, and should be held in savoury remembrance by every follower of Epicurus. The first and second course removed, cheese was put down, to which Sir Patricius helped himself liberally.

"My Lord, your Cheshire is positively excellent. We are indebted to the victorious _Colonia Devana_ for it. To these same Roman centurions who introduced the art of cheese-making, until then unknown in England, into Cheshire; and for my part, my Lord; to adventure upon a pun, I would call this admirable cheese _divina_.--Ha, ha, ha! It is every way deserving of the _Creta notanda_ of Horace, or the _Creta notare_ of Persius: it should truly be marked with white chalk in the calendar!"

"It seems, Sir Patricius, that you are disposed to _chalk your cheese_ with a note of admiration!--eh? Ha, ha, ha. However, I certainly agree with you that the art of cheese-making to be the most valuable memorial which the Romans have left us, and in an especial manner to this country. Indeed so extensively was cheese-making carried on that these cohorts exported large quant.i.ties of cheese, not only to the distant colonies, but even to imperial Rome herself!"

"Most true, my Lord; and to such perfection has it been brought, that it is now (_me judice_) far superior to any imported from cla.s.sic Italy, or dull, plodding Batavia. Centuries have pa.s.sed by, and Rome's centurions have mixed their dust with the defunct Caesars, but Cheshire cheese still holds its high estimation; and long may it do so, while British palates, teeth, and taste remain--_Semperque manebit!_"

A magnificent dessert, crowned with the oldest and choicest wines, concluded this princely banquet, and each day's entertainment, although varied, was equally as splendid as the feast we have recorded.

The next day being the sabbath day, all the guests accompanied Mrs.

Cartwright to the cathedral, (where the bishop was to preach) and sat in that lady's seat in the gallery. As soon as the service was over the party proceeded to inspect this grand and venerable pile.

"The cathedral of Chester was built," as the bishop informed the d.u.c.h.ess, "during the reigns of Henry VI., VII., VIII." He observed that there was much to admire in the beautiful west end of the nave. "The window over the door is richly adorned with much tasteful tracery, and architrave of the door enriched with figures and other subjects in sculpture. The choir is considered handsome, and the gothic tabernacle work over the stalls is carved in a light and elegant manner. The arches in the galleries are divided by slender pillars of admirable conformation."

His Lordship then came to the bishop's throne, which he pointed out as standing on a stone base; and he observed that the form was an oblong square, or parallelogram, which was remarkable for its sculpture, each side being richly ornamented with gothic carvings, with arches and pinnacles. Around the upper part of the canopy stands a range of little images, designed to represent the kings and saints of the Mercian kingdom. The party now advanced to the chancel, where there are four stone stalls for the officiating priests, richly ornamented above with carved gothic work. The d.u.c.h.ess and Lady Adelaide particularly admired the magnificent piece of tapestry which adorns the altar; it represents Elmias the sorcerer struck blind by Saint Paul. The design is taken from one of the cartoons of Raffaelle, and the execution is truly admirable.

The bishop and his n.o.ble guests returned to the palace, where a magnificent dinner was prepared for them, and the bishop entertained Sir Patricius Placebo, so soon as the ladies retired, with "_A brief and succinct account_," as his lordship termed it, "of the ecclesiastical state of the ancient city of Chester." But as two flasks of old Burgundy disappeared during the narration, we are somewhat apprehensive that it would prove rather heavy on our reader's hands, and therefore we shall in _toto_ decline the discussion.

The d.u.c.h.ess and her family having very pleasantly pa.s.sed a week at the palace, now prepared for their regretted departure, and next sadly to bid an affectionate farewell. Mrs. Cartwright obtained a promise from the d.u.c.h.ess of writing to her as soon as her Grace should reach either Amiens or Lille. They proceeded to the town of Tarporly, and thence to Wrexam, where they stopped to change horses and to take some refreshment.

Wrexam is the largest town in North Wales, and its parish the most numerous; it is the princ.i.p.al town of Denbighshire. Struck by the beauty and airy lightness of the lofty tower of Wrexam church, the d.u.c.h.ess and Lady Adelaide resolved, while the necessary operations at the inn were going forward, to wend their way to visit this fine gothic pile; and Sir Patricius, "albeit," as he said himself pleasantly enough upon the occasion, "although he was much more addicted, he must needs confess, to the _memento vivere_ than the _memento mori_" yet, nevertheless, right gallantly esquired the ladies.

"The church of Wrexam is the glory not only of the place, but of North Wales." The inside of the church is very s.p.a.cious, and consists of a nave, two aisles, and a chancel. Much grotesque carving surmounts the capitals of the various pillars in the nave, and within the arches are placed many armorial bearings of the ancient British and Saxon princes.

Many of the monuments which adorn the nave and the aisles are admirably designed, and the sculpture exceedingly fine. The epitaphs are numerous and curious: many a "_hic jacet_ Ap-Howel--Ap-Morgan--Ap-Jhones," may be found in the church and in the church-yard. On the outside of the church is placed a great variety of ludicrous and grotesque sculpture. The steeple is an extremely handsome tower, richly ornamented on three sides with rows of saints placed in rich gothic niches. Among the group is that of Saint Giles, the patron saint of the church, with the hind that so miraculously nourished him in the desert, as monkish legends tell. At every angle of the church tower is a light turret, with a winding stair-case, twenty-four feet high. The entire height of the church tower, which is seen to a considerable distance, is one hundred and twenty-five feet. The church was built in the reign of Henry VIII., and is in the florid style of gothic architecture.

Know, gentle reader, that there occurred a little incident in Wrexam church, which must needs have the additament of being known unto thee.

When the n.o.ble travellers entered the nave they were much struck by beholding a robin perched upon a bra.s.s chandelier, which was suspended from the ceiling in the nave, opposite to the reading-desk. The minister was engaged in reading the Psalms, the clerk the responses; and the robin expanding his wings, and straining his little throat, as if to overpower and surpa.s.s their voices conjoined. The congregation consisted of but three elderly ladies. It was of a week day, to which circ.u.mstance, in all probability, was to be attributed the paucity of the congregation.

This little occurrence produced the following lines from the pen of Lady Adelaide:--

THE RED-BREAST,

IN WREXAM CHURCH, DENBIGHSHIRE,

I roam'd on a cheerful bright summer morning, The sun, unclouded, the hills was adorning; My heart beat in transport, but brief was the hour, When onward I hasten'd for Wrexam's famed tow'r, A feeling I have--and that feeling it led, For pensive the pleasure to muse o'er the dead; And ponder o'er graves where the good are at rest; Who no son of sorrow yet ever oppress'd.

"Glad tidings and peace" are of heavenly birth; Fulfil them, frail mortals, by kindness on earth!

Oh, still the wise counsel, "Bear yet, and forbear!"

We daily from wisdom sublunar may hear.

The blest precept, "Forgive, and then be forgiv'n!"

Is written alone in the records of heav'n.

The church door I enter'd.--The morning was young; Delighted I heard a sweet Redbreast who sung: The notes were seraphic, distinct, shrill, and clear, Sweet Robin the choirist on high chandelier!

Oft quiver'd his bosom, and flutter'd his wing, While matins he chanted to heaven's high King!

The hour was early;--and time swiftly soon fled When Robin allur'd me from tombs of the dead.

That s.p.a.ce then sufficient I might not well spare An hour to devote in the temple of prayer.

Farewell, tuneful warbler, farewell to thy lay, Which fondly I'll cherish for many a day!

Far hence, all unwilling, from thee I depart; Impress'd be thy memory still on my heart!

The d.u.c.h.ess and Lady Adelaide felt with much sensibility the contrariety between the notes of the tuneful Redbreast and the nasal base of the veteran clerk slowly drawling forth the responses. Lady Adelaide compared the one to the other as the silvery tone of the Welch harp, contrasted with the wintry gale that sweeps o'er Snowden.

From Wrexam, where the horses were baited, and our n.o.ble travellers refreshed, they onward pursued their journey, pa.s.sing through Llangollen, and visiting its lovely vale. Highly pleased was every one with the beautiful scenery through which they had pa.s.sed, the course of the Dee, and the windings of the Severn; while with gratified recollections they thought on the very kind and hospitable reception which they had experienced at Chester palace. They proceeded next by way of Oswestry and Shrewsbury, on their route for Bristol; in the performance of which journey, for the present, we must leave our distinguished travellers.

CHAPTER VI.

To kinder skies, where gentler manners reign, I turn; and France displays her bright domain.

Gay, sprightly land of mirth and social ease, Pleased with thyself, whom all the world can please.

GOLDSMITH.

LETTER FROM THE d.u.c.h.eSS OF TYRCONNEL,

ADDRESSED

"TO MY DEAR AND INTRINSICALLY ESTEEMED FRIEND, MRS. CARTWRIGHT, AT THE EPISCOPAL PALACE OF CHESTER."

_Dated_, Lille, _August 12th_, 169--

"I now most willingly take up my pen to give you, my dear Madam, some account of our voyage, and also of our journey, in fulfilment of the promise which I made in parting from you and the worthy prelate at Chester palace:--

"Well, we proceeded on our route to Bristol, where, you are aware, it was our intention to have embarked for some safe port in France; at Bristol in due course we arrived, _sans_ accident and _sans_ adventure of any kind. But, lo and behold, we could find no vessel destined for the fair sh.o.r.es of France! What was next to be done? why we set off, _au desespoir_, for Dover. When we arrived at that seaport Sir Patricius made instant inquiries for a packet, and was told that there was then only one on the station, and that too was engaged. As he was retiring from the beach who should he meet, think you? why none other than 'the unknown knight' whom we had so often encountered on the walls of Chester; this, you will freely admit, was rather somewhat extraordinary, if not marvellous, certainly. Well, my dear Mrs. Cartwright, an explanation took place, when this singular 'knight unknown' informed Sir Patricius that he himself had engaged the packet, but that it was exclusively at our service; and in the politest and most obliging manner he relinquished it to us, and was so truly chivalrous as wholly to decline a pa.s.sage for himself.

"This was indeed n.o.bly kind and generous, and we all felt it as such. At our embarkation the graceful, interesting 'knight unknown' was on the pier of Dover, and you never saw, my dear friend, with what a dignified grace this _preux_ chevalier handed us all on board, and how graciously he bade us 'adieu.' My dear enthusiastic Adelaide is still further convinced that he must be a prince _incognito_. He said, as we were about to part, 'I understand that your Grace and family are now departing on your way to Brussels.'

"I nodded a.s.sent. 'Shall we, pray, stand any chance,' I inquired, 'of seeing you, Sir, in that ancient city?'