In what proportion should ashes be applied to muck? Sparlings?]

_Potash_ is a very active agent in decomposing vegetable matter, and may be used with great advantage, especially where an a.n.a.lysis of the soil which is to be manured shows a deficiency of potash.

_Unleached_ wood ashes are generally the best source from which to obtain this, and from five to twenty-five bushels of these mixed with one cord of muck will produce the desired result.[Z]

The sparlings (or refuse) of potash warehouses may often be purchased at sufficiently low rates to be used for this purpose, and answer an excellent end. They may be applied at the rate of from twenty to one hundred pounds to each cord of muck.

By any of the foregoing methods, muck may be _prepared_ for use in composting.

FOOTNOTES:

[Y] There is, undoubtedly, some of this lime which does not unite with the chlorine; this, however, is still as valuable as any lime.

[Z] _Leached_ ashes will not supply the place of these, as the leaching has deprived them of their potash.

CHAPTER V.

COMPOSTING STABLE MANURE.

[What principles should regulate us in composting?

In what condition is solid dung of value as a fertilizer?

What do we aim to do in composting?]

In composting stable manure in the most economical manner, the evaporation of the organic parts and the leaching of the ashy (and other) portions must be avoided, while the condition of the ma.s.s is such as to admit of the perfect decomposition of the manure.

Solid manures in their fresh state are of but very little use to plants.

It is only as they are decomposed, and have their nitrogen turned into ammonia, and their other ingredients resolved into the condition required by plants, that they are of much value as fertilizers. We have seen that, if this decomposition takes place without proper precautions being made, the most valuable parts of the manure would be lost. Nor would it be prudent to keep manures from decomposing until they are applied to the soil, for then they are not immediately ready for use, and time is lost. By composting, we aim to save every thing while we prepare the manures for immediate use.

SHELTER.

[What is the first consideration for composts?

Describe the arrangement of floor.]

The first consideration in preparing for composting, is to provide proper shelter. This may be done either by means of a shed or by arranging a cellar under the stables, or in any other manner that may be dictated by circ.u.mstances. It is no doubt better to have the manure shed enclosed so as to make it an effectual protection; this however is not absolutely necessary if the roof project far enough over the compost to shelter it from the sun's rays and from driving rains.

The importance of some protection of this kind, is evident from what has already been said, and indeed it is impossible to make an economical use of manures without it. The trifling cost of building a shed, or preparing a cellar, is amply repaid in the benefit resulting from their uses.

THE FLOOR.

The _floor_ or foundation on which to build the compost deserves some consideration. It may be of plank tightly fitted, a hard bed of clay, or better, a cemented surface. Whatever material is used in its construction (and stiff clay mixed with water and beaten compactly down answers an excellent purpose), the floor must have such an inclination as will cause it to discharge water only at one point. That is, one part of the edge must be lower than the rest of the floor, which must be so shaped that water will run towards this point from every part of it; then--the floor being water-tight--all of the liquids of the compost may be collected in a

TANK.

[How should the tank be attached?]

This _tank_ used to collect the liquids of the manure may be made by sinking a barrel or hogshead (according to the size of the heap) in the ground at the point where it is required, or in any other convenient manner.

In the tank a pump of cheap construction may be placed, to raise the liquid to a sufficient height to be conveyed by a trough to the centre of the heap, and there distributed by means of a perforated board with raised edges, and long enough to reach across the heap in any direction.

By altering the position of this board, the liquid may be carried evenly over the whole ma.s.s.

The appearance of the apparatus required for composting, and the compost laid up, may be better shown by the following figure.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 2.

_a_, tank; _b_, pump; _c_ & _g_, perforated board; _d_, muck; _e_, manure; _f_, floor.]

[How is the compost made?]

The compost is made by laying on the floor ten or twelve inches of muck, and on that a few inches of manure, then another heavy layer of muck, and another of manure, continuing in this manner until the heap is raised to the required height, always having a thick layer of muck at the top.

[What liquids are best for moistening the compost?

How should they be applied?

What are the advantages of this moistening?

How does it compare with forking over?]

After laying up the heap, the tank should be filled with liquid manure from the stables, slops from the house, soap-suds, or other water containing fertilizing matter, to be pumped over the ma.s.s. There should be enough of the liquid to saturate the heap and filter through to fill the tank twice a week, at which intervals it should be again pumped up, thus continually being pa.s.sed through the manure. This liquid should not be changed, as it contains much soluble manure. Should the liquid manures named above not be sufficient, the quant.i.ty may be increased by the use of rain-water. That falling during the first ten minutes of a shower is the best, as it contains much ammonia.

The effects produced by frequently watering the compost is one of the greatest advantages of this system.

The soluble portions of the manure are equally diffused through every part of the heap.

Should the heat of fermentation be too great, the watering will reduce it.

When the compost is saturated with water, the air is driven out; and, as the water subsides, _fresh_ air enters and takes its place. This fresh air contains oxygen, which a.s.sists in the decomposition of the manure.

In short, the watering does all the work of forking over by hand much better and much more cheaply.

[Why will the ammonia of manure thus made, not escape if it be used as a top dressing?

What are the advantages of preparing manures in this manner?

What is the profit attending it?]

At the end of a month or more, this compost will be ready for use. The layers in the manure will have disappeared, the whole ma.s.s having become of a uniform character, highly fertilizing, and ready to be immediately used by plants.