Making b.u.t.tonholes: Insert the needle on the edge of the material and when half way through, take the two threads at the eye of the needle bring them towards you at the right and under the point of the needle, drawing the thread from you, making the purl or loop st.i.tch come directly on the edge of the b.u.t.tonhole. St.i.tches should lay close together just far enough apart for the purl or loop st.i.tch to form, always have each st.i.tch of the universal length so the st.i.tches will look straight on each side of the b.u.t.tonhole, the st.i.tches may be placed closer together at the end as most wear comes there.

DARNING A THREE CORNERED TEAR.

A three cornered tear may be darned in two ways. Commence by darning diagonally through the center, darning back and forth towards the end of the tear until one-half has been finished; then begin at the center and work in the opposite direction. At the corner, the st.i.tches should form the shape of a fan. Another method which is stronger, is done by darning a square in the angle, first with the warp threads, then with the woof threads, and finishing each end across the tear.

HEMS AND THE FELLING OF SAME.

A hem is a fold of goods doubled twice to prevent a raw edge. The fold should be turned even and straight with the thread of the material, on this depends the neatness of one's work. The hem should always be turned in toward the worker and basted firmly not too near the edge, leaving one-eighth inch s.p.a.ce for working. Felling--when felling or hemming, the needle should take up only the edge to be hemmed or felled down and just enough to hold on the cloth or lining. When felling or hemming take small st.i.tches close together, even, and do not draw thread or silk too tight as to cause the edge to have the appearance of the teeth of a saw.

BACK St.i.tCHING.

The back st.i.tch is made by placing the needle back in the last st.i.tch, bringing it out once the length of the last st.i.tch, then placing the needle back into last st.i.tch and so on, being careful not to draw the thread too tight as to have a drawing appearance, make the st.i.tches follow each other without leaving a s.p.a.ce between. Back st.i.tching is used in places where much strain is on the seam.

Bias hems, such as sleeve head lining, etc.

All bias hems and curved edges, should have the folds basted in.

LESSON IV.

ALTERATIONS.

How to shorten and lengthen coat sleeves. How to raise and lower collars. How to alter (or change) a coat that is too large around the neck and collar. How to make the alteration when a coat is too large over the chest. How to change a vest that is too large around. How to make a vest larger around. How to change trousers that are too long. How to lengthen trousers. How to make trousers smaller around the waist. How to make trousers larger around the waist, whether there is an outlet or not. How to make b.u.t.ton cords for sewing on b.u.t.tons. An easy way to hang a skirt. How to iron over b.u.t.tons without breaking. Also how to iron embroidery.

HOW TO MAKE ALTERATIONS ON GARMENTS.

When sleeves are to be shortened or lengthened, have customer try coat on, and mark with chalk, the length desired. Then remove coat and run a basting of cotton around both sleeves, five inches above cuff, to hold lining in place, while doing the work. Then with a knife or scissors, rip lining around both cuffs. Unfasten turn up from wigan. This will allow turn up to fall down. Now mark with chalk, around both sleeves, the correct length. Turn up and baste solid, and fasten turn up, to wigan, same as before. Now allow lining to fall down, and cut off even all around the end of the cuff. Baste lining two inches from the edge of cuff, and fell with silk same color as the cloth or lining. These instructions are for shortening sleeves.

=When sleeves are to be lengthened=, proceed as before, but with this difference,--should the lining, and turn up of cuff not meet, it will be necessary to piece the lining or sew hand facings to the bottom of sleeve, same as the cloth in garment, or as near as possible. Then fell sleeve lining to facing.

=When sleeves are to be lengthened=, baste a piece of wigan to that which is now in place, the amount to be lengthened, and fasten turn up to the wigan, and turn sleeve lining in two inches from the end of cuff.

Fell sleeve lining to turn up as before.

=Sleeves may be lengthened= all of the turn up, by sewing a piece of cloth to the sleeve, same as the garment, same size around, and sewn in a seam on the machine. Baste and turn edges out even, and press firm, st.i.tch around with machine, thereby making it firm and solid.

St.i.tch edge of sleeve to match edge of coat.

Fasten ends of silk thread by threading them to a needle and taking a st.i.tch or two, then cut off. Sew b.u.t.tons on as required. This completes the lengthening of sleeves.

=Should coat collar be too high=, run a row of basting cotton, two inches below the collar seam; mark with chalk the amount to be lowered, then rip with knife or scissors, inside and out from crease to crease.

Now baste under collar to neck of coat first, and fasten inside of coat to the stand of collar. Now baste the outside or top collar on the inside to the coat in keeping with the amount lowered and fell inside and outside of collar. Sew loop on back of coat collar inside, and remove basting. Place coat collar on press-jack in a convenient manner and press in same crease as when worn.

Place on a coat hanger, to retain its proper shape and to dry before wearing. (When basting under collar to coat neck, start basting from center back seam, forward to each side.)

=When coat collar is to be raised=, run a row of basting cotton two inches below the collar seam, from end to end. Rip under collar and unfasten coat from stand of collar inside and rip inside collar from crease to crease. Mark with chalk the amount to be raised, and start basting from the center back seam, forward to each side; then fasten coat to the stand of collar, and baste inside or top collar to the inside of coat the amount raised on the outside. Fasten loop to stand of collar inside, remove bastings and place coat collar on press-jack in a convenient way, press as before and hang to dry before wearing.

If however, the coat collar is to be raised and one finds that by raising, that the collar will be too long, the collar may be cut in the center and seamed or taken off at one end (if only raised on one side) or both as the case may be; if raised all around, the collar must be shortened at both ends.

This is a very particular piece of work, and should not be attempted unless the garment is old, and one wants to practice on it; this may be had by altering an old garment for practice, as with practice, most anything may be accomplished. (When one has had considerable experience in this line, then it may be done without taking it to a tailor; until then, it will be best to let the experienced tailor do the work on a good coat.)

=When a coat is too large around the neck and collar=, and falls away at the bottom when unb.u.t.toned, and bulges at the opening when b.u.t.toned, is an indication that the garment is not balanced properly. This may be changed to fit perfectly in the following manner: Run a basting three inches from each side of the shoulder seams and to front of coat to collar end. Rip collar off from crease to crease, rip shoulder seams from neck to within two inches of the sleeve seam, and mark with chalk, the amount to be taken in (as the shoulder strap is too long from neck to bottom of arm hole and must be shortened so that the coat will hang squarely and well balanced when unb.u.t.toned as well as when b.u.t.toned), mark from neck gradually to nothing at the end of the two inches, from the shoulder or sleeve head; this amount to be taken off the forepart in all cases, baste back to shoulder seam and press open, unless a trifle may be taken off the center back seam at top, which is a good idea, so that the collar will fall more closely to the neck. Baste shoulder and lining together. Now baste collar on, starting at the center back seam, and baste forward each way, and if found too long, shorten as explained above; fell shoulders and collar. Finish collar neatly and press shoulder and collar.

When one side is to be altered (this one may see when customer has coat on and b.u.t.toned, and one side stands away from the neck), in that case, only change one side.

=When a coat is too large over the chest=, and by setting the b.u.t.tons back from the edge two and one-half inches (which is only to be done in extreme cases) will not have the desired effect; run a row of basting cotton around arm hole two inches from the sleeve seam, across shoulder to the front end of collar and two inches from the shoulder seam. Rip sleeves and shoulders out and collar off from end to end, press seam out smooth, and mark with chalk the amount shoulder is to be advanced, say from one-quarter to three-quarters of an inch, as the case may be (this may be easily determined when the coat is on the customer, notice the amount of lap and then judge the amount), baste back shoulder to forepart of coat having the top of back even with the chalk mark; seam and press open, baste shoulder and lining together, now baste collar on, then baste sleeve in, and seam and press open seam as before and fix up sleeve head, and cut off end of shoulder amount shoulder was advanced at shoulder point. This will take surplus goods away from the front and allow goods to go back; finish collar, shoulders and sleeves and press.

Double breasted coats are different, the b.u.t.tons may be set from the edge, according to style and fashion.

When a coat is too large in the back, take part out in the side seams and part out in the center back seam; the best way to determine the amount to be taken out, is to pin each seam a trifle when customer has coat on, then one will get the proper effect of the alteration.

=When a vest is too large around=, it may be pinned on the customer, down the side seams and center back the desired amount to be taken out; this alteration may be done in the following manner: Rip vest across back of neck, rip each side seam, mark with chalk the amount to be taken in on each side seam and center back seams. Baste forepart to that of the back at side seams and baste center back seam together, lining and outside.

Seam on machine, remove the basting, turn vest right side out and fell across back of neck. Press side seams, back and around neck; place on hanger to retain shape.

=When vest is to be made larger=, proceed as follows: Rip side seams and across the back of neck, press out side seams of back, and remove st.i.tches, and if there is an outlet, mark with chalk the amount to be let out on each side, and baste as before and finish the same. If there is no outlet, one must sew a piece of lining to the outside and inside lining; press open the seams or st.i.tch to one side and press. Then mark with chalk the amount to be let out and proceed as explained and finish.

=When trousers are too long=, they may be shortened in the following manner: Mark with chalk (using the tape line for measuring length) the desired length, loosen the bottoms, (if felled, rip with knife or scissors, being careful not to cut the cloth), if there is rubber in the bottoms, wet a piece of cloth with gasolene, and rub over the outside and pull turn up free from the bottoms. Turn trousers inside out, allow to dry after using gasolene before turning up bottoms. If rubber is to be put in the bottoms, cut a piece one inch and a half wide, and baste in the turn up or hem and fasten hem to the side seams with silk, only leave a two inch turn up, cut balance off.

Before pressing, place on the small end of press-jack and press all around as in pressing cuffs or bottom of trousers as explained. (But not with sponge cloth, only with iron and wet bottoms with sponge). Press until rubber is thoroughly melted and set. When one has pressed both bottoms all around, turn trousers right side out and press bottoms as in ordinary pressing.

When bottoms are felled, leave two inches for turn up and cut off the balance. Fell with silk all around, being careful not to let st.i.tches show through on right side. Press bottoms same as explained.

=When trousers are to be lengthened=, loosen them at the bottom measure with tape line, the desired length, from crotch down, making them one inch shorter in the back or according to fashion. Mark with chalk the desired length, and place rubber or fell as the case may be, and press as explained; but if trousers are to be lengthened, all. It will be necessary, to sew a piece of cloth to the bottoms same size and same cloth (or as near as possible), sew on machine and baste edges out even, and place rubber or fell; press bottoms and finish in the usual way by turning trousers right side out, and pressing bottoms and legs. Sew heel protectors on (they may be made of silesia by turning all edges in, or made of cloth, same material as trousers) half inch wide and four inches long, sewn half; each side of the center or crease of back trouser bottom. This must be sewed to the inside of bottom.

=When trousers are too large around the waist=, mark with chalk (or pin on customer), the amount to be taken in, rip back seam down as far as is required. Remove the two back suspender b.u.t.tons and rip lining back far enough for convenience in working. Baste the back seam together and sew in the chalk mark (by machine or by hand) to within two inches of the top of waist band; press seam open and fasten back seam at waist to the waist band on each side and leave an outlet one inch and a half wide, each side of the back seam at the top, tapering to nothing at the bottom or three inches from the inside leg seam.

Sew back suspender b.u.t.tons on two inches each side of back seam. Put a good neck on b.u.t.tons to allow suspender b.u.t.ton holes to fit smoothly around b.u.t.ton. This may be done by placing a match or pin over the top of b.u.t.ton and sewing over it, filling the holes with twisted thread or b.u.t.ton cord made for that purpose, as explained in (how to make b.u.t.ton cord.)

When holes are filled, remove the match or pin, and wind cord around under b.u.t.ton, and fasten by taking two st.i.tches through the neck, and cut thread off. Now fell lining back in place, leaving an opening at top of, say two inches in back seam for ease. Press and finish in the usual way.

=When trousers are to be made larger around waist=, rip lining three inches each side of the back seam at top and remove the two top back suspender b.u.t.tons. Rip back seam down the required amount and press out the mark made by the seam. Now with the chalk, mark the amount to be made larger, half the amount on each side of seam, baste seam and sew on machine or by hand in chalk mark. Remove basting, and press seam open, fasten to each side of the seam at waist as before, leaving two inches open at the top for ease. Sew two back suspender b.u.t.tons on; and fell waist band lining. Finish and press in the usual way.

=When trousers are to be made larger at the waist=, and there is nothing to let out, remove back suspender b.u.t.tons as explained, and waist band lining. Cut a piece of cloth "V" shape as long as is necessary and of the same material or as near as possible; make this piece two seams wider than required. This may be determined by the amount to be made larger, (the larger the piece at the top, the longer the wedge will have to be, as it will not do to have an abrupt slant). Baste right sides of cloth and trousers together, sew on machine and remove basting and press open the seam. Then baste other side and seam, then press open; fasten a piece of canvas across the top of waist where piece has been set in, and st.i.tch with machine across, in keeping with the st.i.tching on the waist band. If no waist seam, just st.i.tch even with the waist st.i.tching. Sew back suspender b.u.t.tons on, and fell waist band lining at top, and finish as explained, fastening waist band lining to seams to hold it in place; press and finish. When pressing seams, always press on the smooth side of the press-jack, and dampen with the wet sponge, this will make pressing easier; but do not put too much water on seams.

=How to make b.u.t.ton cords for sewing on b.u.t.tons=. Thread a needle with linen thread double, then rub beeswax up and down the thread; then twist, and when one has twisted enough, rub with a piece of cloth. This will help to keep the twist in the cord and make it strong, which is very essential in sewing on b.u.t.tons; one knows how annoying it is to have b.u.t.tons coming off; this may be prevented by sewing them on good with twisted thread.

When using silk thread, always draw it through beeswax and rub through cloth to remove excess wax. This will make the silk stronger, and also will slip through the cloth more easily when sewing.

=A good method of hanging a skirt.= Have customer stand on top of the stairs, the fitter sitting on the second step. This is an easy way to see that skirts hang evenly all around, marking the proper length without rising, or getting on the knees or sitting on the floor.

=Ironing over b.u.t.tons made easy and safe.= Place four ply wadding on press-jack, b.u.t.tons facing wadding. Iron from the wrong side until dry.