The Copeland Method.

by Vanness Copeland.

INTRODUCTORY.

High birth and good breeding are the privileges of the few; but the habits of a gentleman may be acquired by any man. Neatness is not an art requiring the study of a life time; on the contrary it's principles are simple, and their practical application involves only ordinary care.

To gain the good opinion of those who surround us is the first interest and the second duty of men in every profession of life. First impressions are apt to be permanent; it is therefore of importance that they should be favorable. Frequently the dress of an individual is that circ.u.mstance from which you first form your opinion. It is even more prominent than manner. It is indeed one of the first things noticed in a casual encounter or during the first interview. Chesterfield has said that "He could not help conceiving some idea of the people's sense and character from the appearance of their dress which they appeared when first introduced to him."

In the preparation of this book, it has been the aim of the maker to give in a concise form, all that is properly embraced in a comprehensive work on not only keeping our wardrobes in such a state as to cause us to appear to the best advantage, but also to give a complete instruction in the manipulation of garments and tools used in the process of properly cleaning, pressing and repairing all kinds of garments for men and women.

A few hints may be helpful to the beginner as well as to those in the business.

Observe a well dressed man or woman on the street or elsewhere, note the make up and fitting points of their garments, this will help the student to know good work, and try to do as well when doing the work himself.

When learning the method of cleaning, repairing and pressing all kinds of garments for men and women, it is a good idea, if possible, to have a garment of the same sort as one is studying close at hand, following closely the instructions over all parts of the garment; thereby understanding the teachings better and become more familiar with the work.

Should a garment need repairing of any kind or a b.u.t.ton sewed on, do it and charge accordingly.

Never give a customer clothes that are damp from pressing, allow them to dry before wearing or delivering.

LESSON I.

EQUIPMENT.

Introduction: A few hints to the beginner as well as to those now in the business. The tools required and the best method of using same, for work at home or for business.

TOOLS REQUIRED AND THEIR USE:

The tools required for cleaning, repairing and pressing at home, or for business are as follows:

For work at home, use an ordinary kitchen table with smooth top. For use in business, a table eight feet long, three feet wide and thirty inches high (or as high as is convenient for the presser, this may be easily determined by using). This is called a tailor's bench. The balance of the tools are the same for work at home or for business.

The kitchen table or tailor's bench may be used for several purposes; the first of which is to place the iron, press-jack, sponge cloth, and garment while cleaning and pressing. Also for men to sit on while sewing.

THE IRON.

One may use an ordinary laundry iron (but would advise the purchase of a solid iron or tailor's goose, weighing from fourteen to twenty-two pounds, or according to one's strength), one may heat the iron on a coal range, gas or oil stove; or one may use a gas or electric iron, which are being used with great satisfaction, and are easily handled, being of little trouble to operate, also doing the work well. However, it is best to use whatever one considers most convenient, cheapest and best for the locality in which one resides.

The iron is heated and placed on the iron rest, which has been placed on the table for that purpose, to the right of the presser, and is applied to the sponge cloth (that has been wrung out almost dry), causing steam to penetrate that part of the garment being pressed, thereby refreshing the cloth.

The presser should have control of the iron at all times, also see that the iron is not too hot before using by testing it on a piece of light colored woolen material. If it scorches it is too hot for use, wait for a few minutes to cool.

When pressing move the iron from place to place, on the part to be pressed, by lifting it clear each time, instead of shoving it along as some do. (To shove the iron along on the work is apt to stretch garments where not required, and also cause wrinkles). Keep the face of iron smooth by rubbing wax over the surface frequently, thereby removing any lint or dirt that may acc.u.mulate from time to time.

THE PRESS-JACK.

A press-jack such as the tailors use, is made of two hardwood boards, thirty-five inches long, one inch thick, planed both sides and edges and cut egg-shape; the wide end being eight inches in width, and the narrow or small end, four inches wide, one forming the top and the other the bottom.

Between the top and bottom are screwed two blocks of solid wood, four by four inches, and six inches high. The first one is screwed to the top and bottom, three inches from the large end, and the second block is screwed to the top and bottom, seven inches from the large end, thereby leaving a s.p.a.ce to the small end, of twenty-eight inches, for convenience in handling the garments while pressing.

The top of the press-jack is left perfectly plain and smooth; the bottom, however, is padded for convenience for pressing with ten-ply of wadding, cut the same shape of board or bottom of press-jack. Over this place a piece of white heavy drilling, drawn tight over the wadding to keep in place and tacked all around the edges with bra.s.s head tacks. Cut cotton off evenly around the edges beyond the tacks. This completes the press-jack and is ready for use.

The press-jack as tailors term it, is used for the pressing of clothes, and is also useful to lay clothes on while cleaning.

THE BRUSH.

A brush with a plain back and handle. (Never use a whisk broom to brush clothes as it injures the fibre of the cloth.)

The brush is used to brush garments thoroughly before cleaning and is used in connection with the pressing of garments, to slap with the back the part pressed, thereby keeping the steam in, and making the cloth sweat. The face to brush the nap of cloth, thereby refreshing the garment, making it look like new.

THE SPONGE CLOTH.

A sponge cloth is made of heavy unbleached cotton, one yard and a half long, boiled in soap and water for one hour, then rinse in clean water, thus removing the lint.

The sponge cloth should be dipped in warm water, and wrung out almost dry by hand, (or one may use a clothes wringer if preferred) thereby keeping it clean and free from grease and dirt that may stick to it from time to time.

The sponge cloth is used to lay over the "woolen press cloth" that has been placed over that part of the garment to be pressed, also it is the cloth which is to be dampened and when iron is applied causes steam to be forced into the garment thereby instilling new life into the cloth as it were.

THE UNDER WOOLEN PRESS CLOTH.

Is made of a piece of plain light colored unfinished or finished worsted one yard long and eighteen inches wide.

Place this under woolen press cloth over that part of garment to be pressed, then lay the sponge cloth on top of this, and apply the iron.

By using these two press cloths together, prevents glossing the garment to a great extent, and may be used when pressing all kinds of garments for men and women.

COAT AND TROUSER HANGERS, ETC.

Coat and trouser hangers are used to place the several garments on to retain their shape after cleaning and pressing. They are also very essential in the home to place garments on that are not in use or being worn, it is better to place garments on forms than to hang up by loops that are placed on garments by tailors.

Other necessities used in the cleaning, repairing and pressing of garments, are the sponge, tape measure, scissors, tailor's chalk, needles, thimble, bodkin for pulling bastings, a sewing machine, a large mirror, fashion plates, chairs, desk and safe, if one wishes.

Afterward one may add as many tools as necessity requires and their business permits.