Hard; shape like Austrian Nagelka.s.sa and the size of Cheshire though sometimes smaller. Dry, large, flat, round, flaky, sharp and tangy. A factory cheese said to be identical with Double Gloucester and similar to Warwickshire, Wiltshire and Leicester. The experts p.r.o.nounce it "a somewhat inferior Cheshire, but deficient in its quality and the flavor of Cheddar." So it's unlikely to win in any cheese derby in spite of its name.

Devonshire cream and cheese _England_

Devonshire cream is world famous for its thickness and richness.

Superb with wild strawberries; almost a cream cheese by itself.

Devonshire cream is made into a luscious cheese ripened on straw, which gives it a special flavor, such as that of French Foin or Hay cheese.

Dolce Verde _Italy_

This creamy blue-vein variety is named Sweet Green, because cheesemongers are color-blind when it comes to the blue-greens and the green-blues.

Domaci Beli Sir _Yugoslavia_

"Sir" is not a t.i.tle but the word for cheese. This is a typical ewe's-milker cured in a fresh sheep skin.

Domestic Gruyere _U.S.A._

An imitation of a cheese impossible to imitate.

Domestic Swiss _U.S.A_

Same as domestic Gruyere, maybe more so, since it is made in ponderous 150-to 200-pound wheels, chiefly in Wisconsin and Ohio. The trouble is there is no Alpine pasturage and Emmentaler Valley in our country.

Domiati _Egypt_

Whole or partly skimmed cow's or buffalo's milk. Soft; white; no openings; mild and salty when fresh and cleanly acid when cured. It's called "a pickled cheese" and is very popular in the Near East.

Dorset, Double Dorset, Blue Dorset, or Blue Vinny _England_

Blue mold type from Dorsetshire; crumbly, sharp; made in flat forms.

"Its manufacture has been traced back 150 years in the family of F.E.

Dare, who says that in all probability it was made longer ago than that." (_See_ Blue Vinny.)

Dotter _Nurnberg, Germany_

An entirely original cheese perfected by G. Leuchs in Nurnberg. He enriched skim milk with yolk of eggs and made the cheese in the usual way. When well ripened it is splendid.

Doubles

The English name cheese made of whole milk "double," such as Double Cottenham, Double Dorset, Double Gloucester. "Singles" are cheeses from which some of the cream has been removed.

Double-cream _England_

Similar to Wensleydale.

Double-creme _France_

There are several of this name, made in the summer when milk is richest in cream. The full name is Fromage a la Double-creme, and Pommel is one well known. They are made throughout France in season and are much in demand.

Dresdener Bierkase _Germany_

A celebrated hand cheese made in Dresden. The typical soft, skim milker, strong with caraway and drunk dissolved in beer, as well as merely eaten.

Drinking cheeses

Not only Dresdener, but dozens of regional hand cheeses in Germanic countries are melted in steins of beer or gla.s.ses of wine to make distinctive cheesed drinks for strong stomachs and noses. This peps up the drinks in somewhat the same way as ale and beer are laced with pepper sauce in some parts.

Dry _Germany_

From the drinking cheese just above to dry cheese is quite a leap.

"This cheese, known as Sperrkase and Trockenkase, is made in the small dairies of the eastern part of the Bavarian Alps and in the Tyrol. It is an extremely simple product, made for home consumption and only in the winter season, when the milk cannot be profitably used for other purposes. As soon as the milk is skimmed it is put into a large kettle which can be swung over a fire, where it is kept warm until it is thoroughly thickened from souring. It is then broken up and cooked quite firm. A small quant.i.ty of salt and sometimes some caraway seed are added, and the curd is put into forms of various sizes. It is then placed in a drying room, where it becomes very hard, when it is ready for eating." (From U.S. Department of Agriculture _Bulletin_ No. 608.)

Dubreala _see_ Brina.

Duel _Austria_

Soft; skim milk; hand type; two by two by one-inch cube.

Dunlop _Scotland_

One of the national cheeses of Scotland, but now far behind Cheddar, which it resembles, although it is closer in texture and moister.

Semihard; white; sharp; b.u.t.tery; tangy and rich in flavor. It is one of the "toasting cheeses" resembling Lancashire, too, in form and weight. Made in Ayr, Lanark and Renfrew and sold in the markets of Kilmarnock, Kirkcudbright and Wigtown.

Durak _Turkey_

Mixed with b.u.t.ter; mellow and smoky. Costs three dollars a pound.

Duralag, or Bgug-Panir _Armenia_

Sheep; semisoft to brittle hard; square; sharp but mellow and tangy with herbs. Sometimes salty from lying in a brine bath from two days to two months.

Durmar, Rarush _see_ Rarush.

Dutch _Holland_

Cream cheese of skim milk, very perishable spread.

Dutch cheese

American vernacular for cottage or pot cheese.

Dutch Cream Cheese _England_

Made in England although called Dutch. Contains eggs, and is therefore richer than Dutch cream cheese in Holland itself. In America we call the original Holland-kind Dutch, cottage, pot, and farmer.

Dutch Mill _U.S.A._

A specialty of Oakland, California.