This becomes Fromage a la Creme II (_see_) when served with sugar, and it is also called a heart of cream after being molded into that romantic shape in a wicker or willow-twig basket.

Coeurs d'Arras _Artois, France_

These hearts of Arras are soft, smooth, mellow, caressingly rich with the cream of Arras.

Coffee-flavored cheese

Just as the Dutch captivated coffee lovers all over the world with their coffee-flavored candies, Haagische Hopjes, so the French with Jonchee cheese and Italians with Ricotta satisfy the universal craving by putting coffee in for flavor.

Coimbra _Portugal_

Goat or cow; semihard; firm; round; salty; sharp. Not only one of those college-educated cheeses but a postgraduate one, bearing the honored name of Portugal's ancient academic center.

Colby _U.S.A._

Similar to Cheddar, but of softer body and more open texture. Contains more moisture, and doesn't keep as well as Cheddar.

College-educated

Besides Coimbra several countries have cheeses brought out by their colleges. Even Brazil has one in Minas Geraes and Transylvania another called Kolos-Monostor, while our agricultural colleges in every big cheese state from California through Ames in Iowa, Madison in Wisconsin, all across the continent to Cornell in New York, vie with one another in turning out diploma-ed American Cheddars and such of high degree. It is largely to the agricultural colleges that we owe the steady improvement in both quality and number of foreign imitations since the University of Wisconsin broke the curds early in this century by importing Swiss professors to teach the high art of Emmentaler.

Colwick _see_ Slipcote.

Combe-air _France_

Small; similar to Italian Stracchino in everything but size.

Commission _Holland_

Hard; ball-shaped like Edam and resembling it except being darker in color and packed in a ball weighing about twice as much, around eight pounds. It is made in the province of North Holland and in Friesland.

It is often preferred to Edam for size and nutty flavor.

Compiegne _France_

Soft

Comte _see_ Gruyere.

Conches _France_

Emmentaler type.

Condrieu, Rigotte de la _Rhone Valley below Lyons, France_

Semihard; goat; small; smooth; creamy; mellow; tasty. A cheese of cheeses for epicures, only made from May to November when pasturage is rich.

Confits au Marc de Bourgogne _see_ Epoisses.

Confits au Vin Blanc _see_ Epoisses.

Cooked, or Pennsylvania pot _U.S.A._

Named from cooking sour clabbered curd to the melting point. When cool it is allowed to stand three or four days until it is colored through.

Then it is cooked again with salt, milk, and usually caraway. It is stirred until it's as thick as mola.s.ses and strings from a spoon. It is then put into pots or molds, whose shape it retains when turned out.

All cooked cheese is apt to be tasteless unless some of the milk flavor cooked out is put back in, as wheat germ is now returned to white bread. Almost every country has a cooked cheese all its own, with or without caraway, such as the following:

Belgium--Kochtounkase Germany--Kochkase, Topfen Luxembourg--Kochenkase France--Fromage Ouit & Le P'Teux Sardinia--Pannedas, Freisa

c.o.o.n _see_ Chapter 4.

Cornhusker _U.S.A._

A Nebraska product similar to Cheddar and Colby, but with softer body and more moisture.

Cornimont _Vosges, France_

A splendid French version of Alsatian Munster spiked with caraway, in flattish cylinders with mahogany-red coating. It is similar to Gerome and the harvest cheese of Gerardmer in the same lush Vosges Valley.

Corse, Roquefort de _Corsica, France_

Corsican imitation of the real Roquefort, and not nearly so good, of course.

Cossack _Caucasus_

Cow or sheep. There are two varieties: I. Soft, cured in brine and still soft and mild after two months in the salt bath.

II. Semihard and very sharp after aging in brine for a year or more.

Cotherstone _Yorkshire, England_

Also known as Yorkshire-Stilton, and Wensleydale No. I. (_See both_.)

Cotrone, Cotronese _see_ Pecorino.

Cotta _see_ Pasta.

Cottage cheese

Made in all countries where any sort of milk is obtainable. In America it's also called pot, Dutch, and smearcase. The English, who like playful names for homely dishes, call cottage cheese smearcase from the German Schmierkase. It is also called Glumse in Deutschland, and, together with cream, formed the basis of all of our fine Pennsylvania Dutch cuisine.

Cottenham or Double Cottenham _English Midlands_

Semihard; double cream; blue mold. Similar to Stilton but creamier and richer, and made in flatter and broader forms.

Cottslowe _Cotswold, England_

A brand of cream cheese named for its home in Cotswold, Gloucester.

Although soft, it tastes like hard Cheddar.