While it is undoubtedly true that raw meat is, as a rule, more easily digested than cooked, our present state of civilization demands that it be cooked, and we can only comply with the demand, preparing the food in question so that it may be not only attractive to the eye, but in a manner that will render it pleasing to the taste and readily a.s.similated. Cooking softens the tissues, making the act of eating more enjoyable, and also destroys parasitic growths.

To boil meat when broth is not desired, plunge into boiling water. The water should be allowed to boil for about ten minutes and then be permitted to fall somewhat below boiling point and kept at even heat for a long time. The juices and flavors are thus retained.

It is not desirable that fish should be treated in this manner, as the boiling water would break it into little pieces.

To stew meat, put small portions into cold water and raise temperature slowly, until very hot, but not quite boiling. Let it remain thus for some hours, and a rich broth, as well as juicy and tender meat, will result.

In roasting meat it is well to remember that the smaller roast requires the hotter fire. Intense heat produces a semi-solid condition of the exterior, and prevents the drying up of the meat juices. Great heat would be inapplicable to large cuts, the exterior of which would be burned to a coal under such treatment before the heat could reach the interior.

Young housekeepers and others who are not familiar with the various cuts of meat obtainable in most of our markets will do well to consider thoughtfully the accompanying ill.u.s.trations.

[Ill.u.s.tration:

1. Neck.

2. Chuck.

3. Ribs.

4. Shoulder clod 5. Fore shank.

6. Brisket.

7. Cross ribs.

8. Plate.

9. Navel.

10. Loin.

11. Flank 12. Rump.

13. Round.

14. Second cut round.

15. Hind shank.

FIG. 1.--Diagrams of cuts of beef.]

In selecting beef we must remember that color is of great importance.

The surface of a fresh lean cut should be a bright red, while the fat should be clear white. After being exposed to a warm atmosphere the surface will of course become darker in color.

The loin commands a higher market price than any other cut, on account of its tenderness and quality. The names applied to different parts of the loin vary in different localities. The part nearest the ribs is often called the "short steak," the other end the "sirloin."

It is interesting in this connection to recall the story which has been told regarding the origin of the word "sirloin." It is said that this steak found such favor with some epicurean king of olden times that he, in a spirit of jocularity and good humor, bestowed upon it the honor of knighthood, to the great delight of his a.s.sembled court, and as "Sir Loin" it was thereafter known. It is a pity to spoil so good a story, but the fact is that the word is derived from the French "sur" (upon) and "longe" (loin), and the preferable orthography would therefore be "surloin." However spelled, and whatever its history, the sirloin is deservedly popular.

Between the short and sirloin is the portion usually called the tenderloin, the name of which indicates its prevailing characteristic, the tenderness which makes it a much-to-be-desired cut in spite of its lack of juiciness and flavor as compared with other cuts.

The rib is the cut between the loin and chuck, and contains the best roasts. The fat on the best grade of ribs should be about one-half inch deep.

Round steaks are rather popular, but as Americans have a preference for loin and rib cuts, a large share of the lower grades of "rounds" are used otherwise, being converted into Hamburger, used as sausage tr.i.m.m.i.n.gs and disposed of in many other ways.

Chucks are used extensively as shoulder steak, boiling pieces, and make very good roasts. Pot roasts are cut from the lower side, and stews or soup meat from the neck. The better grade of chucks should have a complete covering of fat, thickest at the rib end of the cut.

[Ill.u.s.tration:

1. Neck. 6. Ribs.

2. Chuck. 7. Loin.

3. Shoulder. 8. Flank.

4. Fore shank. 9. Leg.

5. Breast. 10. Hind shank.

FIG. 2.--Diagrams of cuts of veal.]

Quality in veal is determined by color and grain of flesh. It should be light pink, nearly white, and should contain a quant.i.ty of fat. The many ways of cooking and serving veal are so well known as to need but pa.s.sing mention; veal loaf, veal cutlets, chops, pie, stew, curry of veal and many others are all favorite dishes in many homes.

[Ill.u.s.tration:

1. Neck.

2. Chuck.

3. Shoulder.

4. Flank.

5. Loin.

6. Leg.

FIG. 3.--Diagrams of cuts of lamb and mutton.]

In selecting mutton or lamb we should be guided by color, fineness of grain, thickness of flesh and amount of fat. Mutton of a dull brick red is preferable, though the color varies from that to dark red. Lamb on account of its superior flavor is more popular than mutton. The flesh of lamb should be light in color, of fine grain and the fat evenly distributed. The nutritive value of mutton and lamb is practically the same as beef.

[Ill.u.s.tration:

1. Head.

2. Shoulder.

3. Back.

4. Middle cut.

5. Belly.

6. Ham.

7. Ribs.

8. Loin.

FIG. 4.--Diagrams of cuts of pork.]

The larger share of dressed pork is almost entirely clear fat, which should be white, firm and evenly distributed. Skin should be thin and smooth. Any detailed description of the various cuts of pork would be superfluous here. Not all our eloquence could adequately picture the delight with which an epicure gazes upon a ham boiled or baked by an experienced Kentucky or Virginia cook. The "roasting pig" is also a favorite in many places, and long has been, for, according to Irving, it was much prized by Ichabod Crane of Sleepy Hollow, and it has been mentioned by so great and learned a poet as Shakespeare.

Regarding all meats, we wish to say that as a rule the cheaper cuts have as much food value as the more expensive ones. Careful cooking will render the less expensive cuts delightfully appetizing. It is an advantage to housekeepers to know that meat need not be the highest in price to be nutritious and palatable.

BAKED BREAST OF MUTTON.

Sew up breast of mutton in a thin cloth, put into a stewpan, nearly cover with cold salt water, and let simmer, allowing ten minutes to each pound. Take out of pan and cloth, put into baking dish, rub over with mutton drippings, b.u.t.ter or fat, sprinkle with flour and bake one-half hour in hot oven, basting frequently with its own broth. Just before removing from oven, strew with bread crumbs and b.u.t.ter and let brown.

Serve with brown sauce made from broth in which meat was cooked.

BEEF OMELET.

Three pounds chopped steak, three eggs, one and one-half cup rolled crackers, lump of b.u.t.ter size of a walnut, salt and pepper to taste, one-half cup milk. Mix thoroughly, make out in rolls, wrap in cloth, and bake two hours.