The Church Index.

by William Pepperell.

PREFACE.

PARTICULAR church chronicles are scarcely found among the thousands of volumes which annually issue from the press, although there are no chronicles that have in them more of what is really of public import. In regard to Metropolitan churches, nothing of the kind we here present to our readers has yet been attempted. Detached notices of a church here and there will sometimes be found in our periodicals or newspapers; but no effort has yet been made to supply a collective and relative view of all particular church history and operations in given districts in a permanent and useful form. Yet, these churches have now become so numerous and influential, and are yearly increasing to such a degree, unparalleled in any former age, that it would seem they demand distinct and special recognition and record, and surely are worthy to be preserved in their characteristics as among the ingredients which must enter into the general church history of our times. It may thus happen that we are supplying a real desideratum in Christian literature. The present issue may either be taken as an entire work in itself, or as the first of a series which will appear at intervals, as often and as regularly as circ.u.mstances may determine. It contains accounts, longer or shorter as each case admitted, _historical_, _ecclesiastical_, _architectural_, _clerical_, religious, and social of over fifty churches-established and non-conforming-in the populous parish of Kensington. This parish extends from the Brompton Road, the Boltons and Earl's Court southward, where it joins the parishes of Chelsea and Fulham, to Upper Westbourne Park and Kensal, beyond Notting Hill, north, where it abuts upon Paddington, and from Hyde Park and Bayswater, east, to Shepherd's Bush and Hammersmith, west. It covers an area of 2200 acres, and has fifty miles of main streets or carriage-ways within the bounds. The population, according to the late census, is 121,100 souls.

It will thus be seen that we have been treating in these pages the spiritual provision made for a population greater than that of many a large town or city in the kingdom. We were first attracted to Kensington, a former "suburban village," not only because of its importance as a representative Metropolitan parish, but as forming the centre of the Western suburbs, and on account of the rapidity with which church-building has gone on there of late years. We now present the first part of our task completed, and in the "Index" with the "Notes"

will be found all that it is requisite to know about these churches.

There is other church matter included at the end which may add to the interest of the whole. Also, a goodly number of engravings and photographs of princ.i.p.al church buildings, additions which will contribute greatly to the interest and value of the book in the Christian household or in professional hands.

The author's thanks are due, and are hereby warmly and respectfully presented, to those clergy and other gentlemen of all denominations who have freely opened to him original and reliable sources of information.

He is thus enabled to present the work freer from all sorts of inaccuracies than would probably otherwise be the case. He has, also, gratefully to acknowledge valuable aid from Mr. J. P. Churcher, Architect, of Kensington, who has kindly given the advantage of his professional knowledge in regard to a considerable number of the churches herein described.

The work is now commended to the considerate attention of the public; trusting that the effort may be accepted as some contribution in ill.u.s.tration of Metropolitan churches and church enterprise, treated upon a thoroughly Catholic basis.

There are not wanting signs of a general growing interest in such subjects. Even the political discussions of the last few years-bearing largely upon the state of the Church-have had, at least, the effect of concentrating public attention upon its fortunes, and of awakening a large amount of sympathy with its varied labours. Let us hope that this will tend to the happy result of securing a permanent practical regard in the public mind for every thing connected with the progress of Christianity in our midst; and if in some humble degree this great object is advanced by the contents of the following pages it will be esteemed an abundant reward and cause of much thankfulness by

THE AUTHOR.

22, ST. STEPHEN'S ROAD, SHEPHERD'S BUSH, W.

DEDICATION

DEAR SIR,

IT was said of one of old, "He loveth our nation, and he hath built us a synagogue." It is no less a pleasure than a duty to recognize genuine patriotism; and wherever it exists in its highest character, it is a.s.sociated with zeal for the extension of the Church of G.o.d commensurately with the nation it loves. Although, Sir, your habitual modesty would not allow you to invite the commendation, I cannot forbear according it to you, that by the blessing and providence of G.o.d you have realized the ideal. Having contributed largely by honourable enterprise to the extension of the suburbs themselves, you have been mindful of the spiritual interests of the population. Two handsome churches-St. Paul's, Onslow Square, and St. Peter's, Onslow Gardens-are due to your Christian thoughtfulness and generosity. Some men can only project such works, and leave others to execute and pay for them; but you, Sir, have been endowed with the will and the power to do all these yourself; and you _have_ done them with that unaffected zeal and good will to men, which, as it commands our admiration, will not fail of the blessing of Heaven. On various other good works of Christian charity for the education and improvement of the physical condition of the poor, I need not now dwell.

They are well known to your neighbours, and to all who daily share their benefits, and will not be forgotten in time to come. For these reasons I have deemed it appropriate to dedicate to you this work, in the subjects of which you take so deep and practical an interest. Praying that your useful life may be long preserved to us an example and blessing to many,

I am, dear Sir, Yours sincerely, WM. PEPPERELL.

Charles J. FREAKE, Esq.

THE CHURCHES OF KENSINGTON: INCLUDING SOUTH KENSINGTON, BROMPTON, AND NOTTING-HILL.

KENSINGTON PARISH CHURCH

AT the moment of our writing, St. Mary Abbotts, Kensington, is, in a literal sense, without a parish church. The old one has pa.s.sed away, and the new one is in course of erection. There is, however, _the_ church, with its long, chequered, and interesting history and a.s.sociations of the past, and, we trust, its equally interesting and still more glorious future. The Venerable Archdeacon Sinclair, the present vicar, his churchwardens and friends must feel themselves the subjects of peculiar and pleasurable feelings as being the chief actors in the great change now coming over the site lately occupied by the old church, and thus placing themselves on a line with a long and eventful history. We must go back far into the middle ages for the origin of the parish church of Kensington, and to the days of dark Papal rule in the land. In the time of Henry I. we read of this church being bequeathed, on his deathbed, by G.o.dfrey de Vere, Lord of the Manor, to the Monastery of Abingdon. It was, however, shortly after claimed by and restored to the Diocese of London, in which it has ever since remained. This was in the thirteenth century. The first endowment of the Vicarage was in 1260, and from time to time it received consideration from various monarchs. In 1520 Queen Mary accorded to it a portion of the 7,000_l._ granted by Henry VIII. in augmentation of the living of inc.u.mbents and scholars in England. The history of the old Saxon church is bound up with that of the manor, which was bestowed, inclusive of the rectory, upon various n.o.blemen by royal grants under several reigns. The collation of the vicarage has belonged to the Bishops of London, _pleno jure_, about 390 years. While the Reformation was yet struggling against Papal tyranny, as though we were to have a forecast of the Evangelical type and freedom which have marked this church in after times, it possessed a martyr. Not one, indeed, led, as far as we know, to the stake, but cruelly driven from his position and living, and possibly to temporal ruin. In 1527 Sebastian Harris, the curate, was proceeded against for having in his possession a translation of the New Testament and a book ent.i.tled _Unio Dissidentium_, containing the doctrines of Luther. He was, for this _criminal_ offence, cited to appear before the Vicar-General in the long chapel, St. Paul's Cathedral, and required there to make oath that he would not retain these books in possession any longer, nor sell them, nor lend them, nor make any acquaintance with any person suspected of heresy, and finally adjudged to quit London within twenty-four hours, and not to come within four miles of it for two years!

[Picture: The New Church of St. Mary Abbotts, Kensington, 1872. The Venerable Archdeacon Sinclair, Vicar]

The late church began to supersede the first in 1683. The population even then was said to increase, and the inhabitants, to provide for the increase, built a new aisle on the south side. In the beginning of 1695 the north aisle and chancel were supplanted by others of larger dimensions; and in 1696 it was resolved to take down and rebuild the whole church, excepting the tower at the west end. The cost of this was met by subscription. King William gave 300_l._; the Princess Anne 100_l._; Earl Craven 100_l._; the Bishop of London 50_l._; and the Earl of Warwick 40_l._; the entire expense amounting to no more than 1,800_l_.

_ _Bowack, who visited the church in 1705, thus describes the rebuilt church in his "Antiquities of Middles.e.x": "In form quadrangular, somewhat broader than long, 80 feet from north to south, and hardly 70 from east to west. Paved handsomely with Purbeck stone. The pewing and galleries very neat and convenient. The pulpit and chancel handsomely adorned with carving and painting." It might be added that the pulpit and desk were the gifts of King William the Third and Queen Mary, in addition to their contributions to the building fund. The pulpit has a crown inlaid with the initials, "W. & M. R.," and the date, "1697."

In 1704, the defects of the recent work evincing itself so clearly by the cracking of the building, it was found necessary to take off the old roof, pull down the north and south walls, and rebuild them; which was done at a further outlay of 1,800_l._

Again in 1772 the church underwent a thorough repair, and the old Gothic tower was taken down and the later one erected.

Once more in the year 1811 the church showed signs of decay, and it was necessary to underpin the walls, rebuild the vaults, and entirely renovate and adorn the interior. This was done at an expense of 5,000_l._, which was met by a church-rate of sixpence in the pound, spreading over three years. This church, now spoken of as the "old church," was a plain brick structure, with no pretensions to architectural display. The interior was composed of nave, chancel, and two aisles, separated by wooden pillars supporting the galleries. It was spanned from the entablature of six wooden columns over the nave, and three large bra.s.s chandeliers wore suspended from the ceiling. There was the royal pew curtained round in ancient style, which long continued to be used by high personages from the Palace. Here the Duke and d.u.c.h.ess of Kent and the late Duke of Cambridge worshipped; and from this very pew the d.u.c.h.ess returned thanks after the birth of our present gracious and beloved Queen Victoria. The brows of other distinguished persons have been seen within the old walls. Sir Isaac Newton, Addison (after his marriage with the Countess of Warwick, of Holland House), Lady Margaret Macdonald, "Lady of the Isles," Wilberforce, George Canning, Sir David Wilkie, Lord Macaulay, Thackeray, &c.-all of whom were residents in Kensington, were attendants at the parish church. Such were the minor glories of the former house.

[Picture: Church of St. Mary Abbotts, Kensington, 1872. The Venerable Archdeacon Sinclair, Vicar]

In 1866 it was seen that its fate was sealed. Competent architects p.r.o.nounced that it would not be safe to use it for public worship more than two or three years beyond. The closing services were held on Whit-Sunday, May 16, 1869, when sermons were preached by the Bishop of London in the morning and by the Vicar in the evening. The church was crowded-said, indeed, to be "packed to the ceiling." Collections made on the occasion towards the new building fund amounted to 265_l._ The church contained no less than 114 monuments and tablets, among which one in white marble was most conspicuous, dated 1759, in memory of the Earl of Warwick, the Countess, and their daughter, Lady Charlotte Rich. The Earl is represented sitting, resting his arm on an urn and clothed in a Roman habit. All the monuments were carefully removed before the church was pulled down, and some, it is expected, will be reinstalled in the new edifice.

[Picture: Design of Organ for new Church of St. Mary Abbotts, Kensington.

Built by Hill & Son, London]

At first it was thought that the entire enterprise of the new parish church could not be undertaken at once, for want of funds, and it was resolved to proceed by degrees, laying the foundation and building vestry and chancel, with a temporary nave. But the funds shortly realised and promised encouraged the deacon and churchwardens to build the whole of the fabric at once, with the exception of tower and spire. The estimated cost of the work when completed is 35,000_l._, the tower and spire alone being estimated to cost 10,000_l._ of the amount. The fine old ring of bells-eight in number-which have quickened and delighted the ears of Kensingtonians for many a long year, will find a place in the new tower and be heard again, and probably their joyous music be listened to by generations to come. The spire, when completed, will be 240 feet from the base to the vane. The estimated cost of the interior fittings, pews, pulpit, screen, and altar is 4,460_l._ The church will be brilliantly lit with gas, and warmed with hot water on the most improved principle.

The length of the interior is 155 feet, and its greatest breadth 100 feet, and is capable of accommodating 1,600 persons on one floor. There will be no galleries. The style of the building is Gothic, a specimen of the transitional period from the early English to the decorated, and the architect is Mr. Gilbert Scott R.A., of Spring-gardens; the contractors Messrs. Dove Brothers, of Islington; and the grotesque and other carving with which the church is ornamented is executed by Messrs. Farmer and Brindly. The external material of the building is Kentish rag, with selected Bath-stone dressings. From what can be seen of the work in progress, the ample Bath-stone turrets and mouldings will add much to the effect of the building. In the interior there is no plaster, but the whole of the church is faced with solid Bath ashlar. There are on plan, nave, side aisles, and transepts. The nave will be 107 ft. and the chancel 48 ft. long, and 27 ft. wide; the aisles are 14 ft. 6 in. wide.

There are also chancel aisles, and on the north side of the chancel an organ chamber, and the tower-the tower s.p.a.ce being occupied with a vestry, from which the clergy will pa.s.s to the chancel by a vestibule.

The font is on the north side of the west door; it is intended to be a very handsome marble one, with a conical cover, the cost being 400_l._ Several ladies in Kensington are exerting themselves to raise funds for this particular work. The princ.i.p.al entrance to the church is on the west side, and the door has a sumptuous carving in Bath stone over it.

The next princ.i.p.al entrance will be on the south side, through a porch, and another on the north side. A scheme is projected by the ladies of the congregation, and a plan is now preparing by Messrs. Clayton and Bell, to fill the whole church with painted windows. Should this be accomplished, and the eminent firm mentioned be employed to carry it out, it will doubtless add vastly to the effect of the interior.

[Picture: The Old Church, High Street, Kensington. In Memoriam 16971869]

It is hoped and expected by the Vicar that the church will be opened by Easter next (1872). A very fine organ is now being built for this handsome fabric, by Messrs. Hill and Son, of the Euston-road, at a cost of about 1,200_l._, to be provided by a separate fund. This instrument has three manuals and a pedal organ. _Great Organ_-containing double open diapason and bourdon, 16 feet; open diapason, 8 feet; ditto, No. 2, 8 feet; gamba, 8 feet; stopped diapason, 8 feet; princ.i.p.al, 4 feet; harmonic flute, 4 feet; 12th, 3 feet; 15th, 2 feet; mixture, 4 ranks; Posaund, 8 feet; clarion, 4 feet. _Choir Organ_-open diapason, 8 feet; dulciana, 8 feet; Gedact, 8 feet; Gamshorn, 4 feet; Wald flute, 4 feet; flautina, 2 feet; clarionet, 8 feet. _Swell Organ_-Bourdon, 16 feet; open diapason, 8 feet; salcional, 8 feet; stopped diapason, 8 feet; princ.i.p.al, 4 feet; Suabe flute, 4 feet; 12th, 3 feet: 15th, 2 feet; mixture, 3 ranks; horn, 8 feet; oboe, 8 feet; clarion, 4 feet. _Pedal Organ_-CCC to F, 30 notes; sub-Bourdon, 32 feet; open diapason, 16 feet; violone, 15 feet; Bourdon, 16 feet; princ.i.p.al, 8 feet; 15th, 4 ft.; trombone, 16 ft.; 5 couplers. Up to the present time about 24,000_l._ has been received and promised to the Building Fund, to which Her Majesty the Queen subscribes 200_l._ It will be seen, therefore, that a large proportion of the money has yet to be raised, although no doubt is felt that public spirit will display itself in connection with this great public object, so as to relieve the promoters of all anxiety as to the speedy and successful termination of their work. Archdeacon Sinclair is the treasurer of the fund, and the Rev. W. Wright, of 2, Bath-place, the secretary. The present churchwardens are Charles Greenway, Esq., of 3, Bath-place, who has filled the office for sixteen years, and Robert Harvey, Esq., of 92, High-street, Notting-hill, who has been in office for two years. Attached to the parish church there are national schools, with 200 boys and 130 girls; an infant school with 200; and a ragged-school in Jennings'-buildings-a notoriously low part of the town-with 60 or 70. There is also an industrial school for young girls, where 35 or 40 are taught various useful domestic works. There are Sunday-schools answering to the day-schools; also a district visiting society, composed of ladies and clergymen who visit the poor and distribute alms; and annual collections are made for missionary and other religious and charitable purposes.

The venerable Archdeacon Sinclair has been Vicar for the last twenty-nine years, and was appointed Archdeacon soon after his accession to the Vicarage. It is known to be a wealthy living, but its exact value cannot be precisely stated. The net value, however, is estimated at 912_l._ per annum. The Vicar is well known and admired both for the elevation of his personal character and his able and truly Evangelical ministry. He is now well stricken in years-being seventy-four years of age-but retains a notable degree vigour, and preaches regularly twice every Sunday, at present to the congregation of St. Paul's, Palace-gardens, one of the chapels of ease to the parish church. Christ Church, Victoria-road, is the other. a.s.sociated with the Vicar in the spiritual work of the parish are at present four curates, the Rev. W. Wright, M.A., the Rev. E. T.

Carey, M.A., the Rev. G. Averill, M.A., and the Rev. J. J. T. Wilmot, M.A.

The princ.i.p.al congregation of the old church are, during the re-building, worshipping in the vestry-hall adjoining. Here we had the pleasure of uniting with them on the morning of Sunday, Oct. 15, 1871. The service is a reflection of what it was in the old temple, and what, under the venerable vicar, it is intended to be in the new. It was plain devout Church of England service, earnest and as inspiring as it could be in a plain hall. The officiating clergyman was the Rev. J. J. T. Wilmot, M.A., who took the whole of the service and preached the sermon. The latter was a faithful exposition and application of 1 Tim. i.

16-"G.o.dliness with contentment is great gain." Some very pointed remarks on the evils of the l.u.s.t of riches, and the value of the gain of G.o.dliness, were delivered in a clear and sonorous voice, and pointed with familiar ill.u.s.trations. The impression on our minds was that such a method of conducting worship, and such a style of pulpit or platform discourse, cannot but be the means of doing great good.

(_See Notes_.)

ST. ANDREW AND ST. PHILIP'S CHURCH, GOLBORNE ROAD, UPPER WESTBOURNE PARK.

THIS church is a recent instance of the modern forward movement to overtake the spreading population of the suburbs. It is situated at the extreme north of the parish, in the midst of a vast ma.s.s of new property, which is very properly called _New-town_, or Kensal New-town. The parish, which was formed out of the extensive one of All Saints', Notting-hill, has a population of 9,000; and up to the present has been very ill-provided with means of religious worship. Indeed, it seems as if no effort can be abreast of the fast-growing needs of the metropolis.

But here is, at least, a large and handsome church situate in a locality in which _prima facie_ it would appear a very _G.o.d-send_. Alighting at the Westbourne-park Station, and pa.s.sing over the bridge, a sign-board directs the inquirer along the main Newtown-street, and after four or five minutes' walk another board points out the site of the church. Or an equally ready way of access may now be found from the Notting-hill Station, by the Ladbroke and recently-opened Golborne-road. This edifice is the fruit of private and public zeal combined. A Christian lady in Bayswater devoted 5,000_l._ of her abundance, and the Bishop of London's Fund, together with some local donations, supplied the remainder of 7,000_l._, which was the cost of the building. It is therefore unenc.u.mbered with debt, and has a free and open course before it for Christian usefulness. The ceremony of consecration took place on Sat.u.r.day, the 8th of January, 1870, when our reporter in attendance wrote that, "Notwithstanding the furious gale over the parish, upwards of 700 ladies and gentlemen were present." The then new Bishop of London (Dr.

Jackson) officiated, and was a.s.sisted in the service by the Venerable Archdeacon Sinclair, Vicar of St. Mary Abbotts, Kensington; the Rev. A.

G. Pemberton, of Kensal-green; the Rev. A. Campe; and the Rev. R. Towers, the inc.u.mbent. A number of other clergymen were also present, amongst whom were the Rev. R. W. Forest, the Rev. Daniel Moore, the Rev. Bryan Hodge, the Rev. W. A. Newton, the Rev. W. A. Bathurst, &c.