The British a.s.sociation's visit to Montreal, 1884: Letters.

by Clara Rayleigh.

INTRODUCTION.

THE BRITISH a.s.sOCIATION.

(Reprinted from The Times, 1884)

It seems early to begin to speak of the arrangements for the next meeting of the British a.s.sociation, but it is a far cry to Montreal, and a proportionately long start must be made before the final leap is taken. So heartily have the Dominion Government and the Canadian _savants_ entered into the preparations that everything is ready; all the presidents, vice-presidents and secretaries of sections have been selected; all arrangements made with steamship companies and American railways; all excursions have been planned, and all possible routes provided for; instructions of the most detailed kind have been drawn up for the guidance of members; nothing has been left, indeed, except what depends on contingencies of time and place, so that Professor Bonney and his legion of officials may at any moment take up their portmanteaus and walk on shipboard. All this forwardness and completeness are largely due to the zeal of the High Commissioner, Sir Charles Tupper, and his energetic and obliging secretary, Mr. Colmer.

When the decision was come to at Southampton to hold the meeting of 1884 in Canada there was widely expressed disapproval of the step, and doubt as to its legitimacy; but the prospect of entertaining the upper thousand of English science has evidently so greatly gratified our Canadian brothers that even the most stiff-necked opponent of the migration must be compelled to give in if he has a shred of good nature and brotherly feeling left. There are doubtless a few grumblers who will maintain that the Montreal a.s.sembly will not be a meeting of the _British_ a.s.sociation; but after all this Imperial Parliament of Science could not be better occupied than in doing something to promote science in one of the most important sections of the British dominions.

Indeed, since some maintain that so far as this country is concerned it has almost ceased to have a _raison d'etre_, might it not extend its functions and endeavour to exercise the same effective influence on the promotion of science in other parts of the Empire as it has undoubtedly done in the past in the Mother Country? It can scarcely hope ever to hold a meeting either in Australia or India, nor even, we fear, in South Africa; but there are other means Which it might adopt more appropriately than any other body to encourage the progress of science in these parts of the Empire, and make accessible to the public interested in it the good work which is being done, at least in some of the Australian colonies. In Canada itself there are several important scientific societies; but so far as we know, they have no common bond of union. Seeing that there is already an efficient American a.s.sociation, we should not advocate the formation of a separate Canadian body; but possibly the Montreal meeting might be able to do something to federalise the separate Canadian societies. We suggested some years ago that the a.s.sociation might do such a service to the numerous local societies in this country, and we are glad to know that the suggestion has borne fruit, and that already a real advance has been made in this direction.

But whatever may be the results of the Montreal meeting, it is clear from the programme which has been drawn up that everything possible is being done to render the occasion one of genuine enjoyment to all who are fortunate enough to be present. The Canadian Parliament has voted so handsome a sum for the entertainment of the a.s.sociation that its expenses are likely to be less than at an ordinary meeting. Provision has been made for free pa.s.sages and free living for fifty of the officials, who need not spend a penny from the time they set foot upon the steamer until they step ash.o.r.e again upon their native land. Not only so, but a sum of $14,000 has been allotted for the reduction of members' pa.s.sages to Canada in addition to any abatement of fares allowed by the steamship companies. The most important of these companies, sailing not only to Quebec and Montreal, but to New York and Newport, offer reductions averaging about 10 per, cent, on the ordinary fares. The companies who offer these advantages are the Allan, the Dominion, the Beaver, White Star, Cunard, National, Anchor, Guion, Inman, Monarch, and Union lines; so that intending visitors have ample choice of route. On the other side, again, all the railway companies have shown the greatest liberality. The Government railways are free to all who produce members' vouchers. The Canada Pacific Line will from July 1 up to the date of the departure of the special free excursion to the Rocky Mountains, grant to visiting members free pa.s.ses over its lines to the northward (Rocky Mountains, Lake Superior, &c.) and intermediate points. This company also offers to one hundred and fifty members of the a.s.sociation a free special excursion to the Rocky Mountains, by way of Georgian Bay, Thursday Bay, and Winnipeg, providing that those places pa.s.sed during the night on the outward journey will be repa.s.sed during the day on the return. The only thing members will have to pay for will be meals, which will be provided at a rate not exceeding 2s. Arrangements, moreover, will be made for trips and excursions from Toronto, across Lake Ontario to Niagara, under the direction of local committees to be formed in both places, giving to all members an opportunity of visiting the Falls. Various other excursions have been liberally arranged for by the company, so that visitors will have ample opportunity of seeing most that is worth seeing in Canada for practically nothing. The Canada Atlantic Railway has also arranged for several free excursions, while the Grand Trunk, the North Sh.o.r.e, the Central Vermont, and other railways in the States offer tickets to members at something like half the usual rates; thus those who proceed to New York may visit various parts of the States before proceeding northwards to Canada at extremely cheap rates. At all the Canadian cities to be visited local committees will be organized to receive the excursionists and to care for them during their stay. The circular prepared for the members gives every information as to routes, distances, fares, &c., so that they may make all their arrangements before leaving England. The telegraph companies, not to be behindhand, undertake to transmit messages during the meeting for members from Montreal to all parts of Canada and the United States free of charge.

Of course, it is not to be expected that all those advantages will be given indiscriminately to all who may apply, and doubtless the great accession of members at the Southport meeting was partly due to the prospective visit to Canada. But only those members elected at or before the Southampton meeting will share in the benefit of the $14,000 allotted for reduction of pa.s.sage money, and until further notice no new members or a.s.sociates can be elected except by special vote of the Council. This is as it should be, otherwise the meeting would be largely one of mere "trippers," instead of genuine representatives of British science. The Council have taken every precaution to render the Montreal Meeting one of real work, and no mere holiday; from respect to itself as well as to its hosts, the a.s.sociation is bound to show itself at its best. At the same time, the Council have extended all the privileges of a.s.sociates to the near relatives of members to the number of three for each, so that members will have no excuse for doing Canada _en garcon_. Of course those applying for the privileges mentioned must produce satisfactory evidence of their ident.i.ty, and in return will receive vouchers which will serve as pa.s.sports on the other side. Those desirous of obtaining information as to hotels and other local matters, must apply to the local secretary, care of Mr. S. C. Stevenson, 181, St.

James's Street, Montreal.

Already somewhere about six hundred applications nave been received, and it is quite probable that at least one thousand members and a.s.sociates may be crowding across next August. Those members who wish to share in the subsidy of $14,000 must apply before March 25, and no voucher will be issued after July 20. We may say that the reduced railway fares mainly extend from August 1 to the end of September. The active and courteous secretary, Professor Bonney, on whom so much depends, will arrive in Montreal three weeks before the opening of the meeting, August 27, for the purpose of securing that everything is in train. It is expected that all the addresses will be printed here in time for transmission to Montreal. So far at least as the officials are concerned, the Canada Meeting will be a representative one. The President elect, Lord Rayleigh, one of the most solid exponents of British science, will certainly prove equal to the occasion. The vice-presidents show a large Transatlantic contingent; they are, his Excellency the Governor-General, Sir John A. Macdonald, Sir Lyon Playfair, Sir Alexander Gait, Sir Charles Tupper, Sir Narcisse Dorion, Hon. Dr. Chauveau, Princ.i.p.al Dawson, Professor Frankland, Dr. L. H.

Hingston, and Professor Sterry Hunt. Sir Joseph Hooker, we may say, has also been nominated by the Council a vice-president, in place of the late Sir C. W. Siemens. Perhaps it is scarcely necessary to state that the general treasurer, Professor A W. Williamson, and the general secretaries, Captain Douglas Galton and Mr. A. G. Vernon Harcourt, will be present. There are five local secretaries and a local treasurer. The presidents of the sections are all men of the highest standing in their particular departments; it would be difficult, indeed, to suggest a better selection. In Section A, Mathematical and Physical Science, it is a great thing that Professor Sir William Thomson has been persuaded to preside. No more representative chemist than Professor Roscoe could have been obtained for Section B; in C, Geology; Mr. W. T. Blanford, the head of the Indian Geological Survey, is sure to do honour to his subject; in Section D, Biology, Professor Moseley, a man of thoroughly Darwinian type of mind, will preside; in F, Economic Science, Sir Richard Temple will be a host in himself; while in G, Mechanical Science, Sir F J.

Bramwell is sure to be vigorous and original; finally, in the new section H, Anthropology, Dr. E. B. Tylor is the very man that ought to have been selected. Lord Aberdare, we regret to say, has been compelled to retire from the presidency of the Geographical Section; but for a Canadian meeting no more suitable president could be obtained than the veteran Arctic explorer, Sir Leopold McClintock, who, we trust, will be persuaded to take the place of Lord Aberdare. All the vice-presidents and secretaries of sections have been chosen with equal care; and thus the a.s.sociation has taken the very best means of proving to the Canadians how highly they, appreciate the honour of the invitation, and in what respect they hold their prospective audiences. For the public lectures, the popular feature of the meetings, it is hoped to secure the services of Professor W. G. Adams, the able Professor of Physics in King's College, London, who it is hoped will be able to go; Dr.

Dallinger, the well-known-biologist, and Professor Ball, the witty and eloquent Astronomer Royal for Ireland, who will deliver the popular lecture _par excellence_.

Thus it will be seen that every possible arrangement has been made that could be made beforehand to insure complete success, and there can be little doubt that neither the a.s.sociation nor the Canadians will be disappointed. Section A is following the example set last year in Section D by Professor Ray Lankester. The Committee, as we have already announced, are sending out a circular inviting mathematicians and physicists to co-operate with them in sustaining discussions and contributing papers; one of the special subjects for discussion in this section on September 1st will be the vexed one of the connection between sun spots and terrestrial phenomena. In conclusion we may say that the American a.s.sociation will meet in Philadelphia on September 3rd, and those who have not had enough of science at Montreal can enjoy another week of it at the Quaker City. The Philadelphia Committee have sent a cordial invitation to the members of the British a.s.sociation to attend their meetings, offering to do the utmost in their power to make the visit at once pleasant and profitable. This will be a red letter year in the history of both a.s.sociations.

Letter No. 1.

_Thursday, August 21st, 1884; on board "PARISIAN,"--getting near Newfoundland._

My beloved Mother.--I sent you some lines from the train on Sat.u.r.day 16th, and a card to Clara after we arrived on board. This is a capital ship, and lucky for us it is so, for we have had a regular gale. I little thought it was possible that I should dislike any sea as I do this Atlantic! It has been dreadful weather--grey in the clouds above and waters beneath, and blowing hard, without anything to brighten the vast waste of waters, and I have heartily wished myself away from it.

This truly humiliating state of things will cause you to triumph over me, no doubt! I became uncomfortable and headachy and could do nothing, nor bear to stay in the saloon, and the drawing room, such as it is, is taken possession of by the men, who lay themselves down full length on the seats and leave no room for any ladies, so I have stayed in my cabin. Dr. Protheroe Smith has been quite a comfort to me. He is such a good man, and so pleasant, and has given me things to read, and relates interesting medical and religious experiences. While I write, an enormous wave has dashed against my port light and given me a flash of darkness. Hedley has been rather ill, but has never quite lost his appet.i.te. Gibson and the two others have held out well. Evelyn has been in her berth since Monday, when it began to blow, but she has not been really ill. John and d.i.c.k have braved the storm on deck, and say the sight of the waves from the stern was magnificent, but I don't care for this kind of awful uncomfortable magnificence, which makes me feel a miserable shrimp, whose fate it is to be swallowed up by these raging waves, and who well deserves it. So I only made a feeble attempt to get to the deck on Monday, and was glad, to leave it in half an hour when it rained. I went down to the drawing room to look at some men playing chess, but as the others stared at me as if I had no right to be there, and the motion was very bad, I had soon to leave ignominiously. Mr.

Barrett has entertained me with some ghost stories, well authenticated and printed for private circulation. I have begun writing this to-day because there seems some chance of posting it on Sat.u.r.day or Sunday, when Sir Leonard and Lady Tilley and two sons are to be landed at New Brunswick as we pa.s.s down the Straits of Belle Isle, I think. I shall not see your birth-place as we shall be too far off.

_Friday, 22nd._--I went upon deck after breakfast in a great hurry to see an iceberg. I was greeted with great kindness by every one after my three days' seclusion, and thoroughly enjoyed the day and the ocean for the first time. It was very cold but clear and sparkling, and there was no motion to speak of; after the gale, and the great hills and valleys of the Atlantic roll in a storm, it seemed impossible it could be so smooth; but we are to have every experience of weather, as a fog came on and we steamed very slowly and blew fog signals for an hour!

However, the sun broke forth and lifted the curtain of fog, and within a quarter of a mile we saw a beautiful iceberg twelve or fifteen hundred feet deep, they said, and so beautiful in its ultra marine colouring.

The shape was like a village church somewhat in ruins. Miss Fox, a sister of Caroline Fox, is on board and sketched the icebergs and the waves during the storm very cleverly. They were also photographed by Mr.

Barrett and a professional. After dinner we were all on deck again and watched for the lights on the coast of Labrador, which mark the entrance into the Straits of Belle Isle, and at last a twinkle caught my eye and we all greeted it with joy! Isn't it wonderful that a ship can be steered across that vast expanse of water straight to this light, in spite of clouds and storms and without the sight of sun or moon or stars? If I was teaching a cla.s.s I should quote this as a good ill.u.s.tration of "G.o.d's mysterious ways." We wander on through all the changes, and chances of this mortal life, and we don't know the why, or when, or where, but at last we see the lights of heaven looming on our horizon and are at the haven where we would be. Then we realize that all the time He was guiding us by ways that we knew not! In the evening we heard an auction amusingly carried on, though I did not approve of the gambling connected with it; and then Mr. Barrett gave a short account of apparitions, and there was a discussion.

I am now writing after breakfast on Sat.u.r.day and we expect to reach Quebec on Sunday night. It will be a dreadful disappointment if we don't see the first view, which is so fine, by daylight. We entered the Gulf of St. Lawrence last night (Friday). I give you a list of our saloon fellow pa.s.sengers and you will see that I knew a good many of them before.

LIST OF SALOON Pa.s.sENGERS PER S. "PARISIAN," (CAPTAIN JAMES WYLIE,) FOR QUEBEC, AUGUST 16TH, 1884.

Mr. H. Alabaster Mr. A. H. Allen Dr. J. T. Arlidge Mr. Atchison Mr. B. Baker Major E. Bance Miss Barlow Mr. W. F. Barrett Dr. Beamish Mr. G Belyea Mr. G W. Bloxam Miss Bodman Dr. H. Borns Mr. Stephen Bourne Miss E E. Bourne Miss E. M. Bourne Mr. A. H. Bradley Sir Frederick Bramwell Mr. R. G. Brook Mr. Robert Capper Mrs. Capper Mr. G. C. Chatterton Mr. W. H. Clemmey Mr. C. Cooke Mrs. Cooper Miss Cooper Mr. F. B. C. Costelloe Mr. Crampton Mrs. Crampton Mr. Crookshank Mr. W. C. Davy Miss Daw Mr. W. Boyd Dawkins Mr. Thomas Denman Prof. Dewar Mrs. Dewar Mr. G. E. Dobson Mr. R. Edminson Mr. E. Farnworth Mr. J. Fewings Prof. G. Forbes Mr. R Formby Mr. C. Le Neve Foster Mr. Howard Fox Miss Fox Prof. Fream Hon. C. W. Fremantle Capt. Douglas Galton Mr. John L. Ga.r.s.ed Dr. J. H. Gilbert Mrs. Gilbert Mr. J. H. Gladstone Miss Gladstone Miss Gladstone Miss Gladstone Mr. J. H. Glover Mr. A. G. Greenhill Mr. Egbert de Hamel Mr. N. C. Hardcastle Mr. B. W. Hardcastle Dr. G. Harley Mr. N. B. Harley Miss Harris Mr. R. T. Herford Miss A. C. Herford Mr. Horniman Mr. W. Hurst Mr. John Jones Rev. Harry Jones Mr. George Oliver Jones Miss f.a.n.n.y Jones Mr. R. H. Jones Hon. Mrs. Joyce Rev. A. G. Joyce Mr. Simeon Kaye Mr. J. W. Leahy Mr. B. T. Leech Mrs. Leech General Sir J. H. Lefroy, K. C. M. G.

Lady Lefroy, and Maid Mr. James A. Love Mr. William Lukes Mr. W. Macandrew Mr. G. Mackay Mr. U. Mackay Mr. Harry Mackeson Mr. James Mackrell Mr. Samuel Marsden Mr. James Mactear Mr. W. P. Marshall Dr. W. R. McNab Mr. C. T. Mitch.e.l.l Mr. W. J. Muirhead Mr. Hugo M. Muller Mr. E. K. Muspratt Miss J. Muspratt Mr. J. S. O'Halloran Admiral Sir E. Ommanney Mr. W. H. Perkin Mr. W. H. Perkin, Jun.

Mr. L. G. Pike Mr. Benjamin Pilling Mr. John Pilling Mrs. Pilling Mr. John Powell Mr. W. H. Preece Mr. P. Price Mrs. Price Lord Rayleigh Lady Rayleigh Clara Lady Rayleigh, and Maid Mr. J. B. Readman Mr. A. W. Reinold Mr. C. Richardson Mr. R. Richardson Mrs. Richardson Mr. A. Rigg Mr. A. F. Riddell Mrs. Riddell Rev. J. Robberds Prof. W. Chandler Roberts Mrs. Roberts Mr. G. H. Robertson Mrs. Robertson Canon Rogers Mr. W. Rogers Earl of Rosse Mr. P. L. Sclater Mr. W. L. Sclater Mr. Sydney C. Scott Mr. A. Sedgwick Prof. H. S. Hele Shaw Prof. J. P. Sheldon Mr. George Smith Dr. P. Smith Dr. H. Smith Prof. W. J. Sollas Mr. E. Sollas Mr. Sowden Mr. A. Sowden Dr. W. D. Spanton Mr. Russell Stephenson Mr. T. H. Stockwell Hon. R. Strutt Hon. H. V. Strutt Mr. A. Summers Mr. R. W. Cooke-Taylor Mrs. Cooke-Taylor Mr. T. H. Thomas Dr. Alex. S. Thomson Mr. William Thomson Mr. W. J. Thomson Dr. H. G. Thompson Sir Leonard Tilley, K.C.M.G., C.B.

Lady Tilley Master Herbert Tilley Master Leonard Tilley Mr. W. Topley Mr. W. Tribe Mr. G. S. Turner Capt. H. S. Walker Mrs. Walker Mr. Ward Miss Ward Mr. C. A. Wells Rev. E. Wells Mr. Westgarth Mrs. Westgarth Mrs. Westgarth Mr. W. Whitaker Miss E. H. Williamson Mr. E. S. Williams Miss Wilson Rev. H. H. Winwood Mr. Alfred Wood Mrs. Wood Mr. H. T. Wood Mr. A. W. Worthington Miss Worthington Mr. T. Wrightson Mr. F. York Mrs. York

This afternoon was very dull and grey. I played a game of four chess, and there was a concert in the evening,--every two or three minutes broken in upon by the roar of a wild beast called the fog horn. It was very funny to hear the apropos way it came in when Canon Rogers was reciting Hiawatha. "Minnihaha said ----" then a roar! One of the party read a paper, and a really witty burlesque on this supposed wild beast and its anatomy. John is so well and, I think, very popular: Evelyn is a much better sailor than one antic.i.p.ated. Captain Douglas Galton told me John's address was admirable, but I would not read it, as I want to judge of it as others will, when it is delivered. I have had no _whist!_ think of that--at first people were too ill, and then so much on deck, and they play in the smoking room, I hear, and perhaps gamble for higher stakes than I like!--which perhaps you will say is not surprising as I never play for anything.

_Sunday, August 24th._--We have had a bright but cold day and brisk wind--in fact I have felt colder than when the icebergs were round us! We had service in the morning--Mr. Joyce read prayers' and Canon Rogers preached; and at three we Lad the excitement of seeing Sir Leonard and Lady Tilley, and two sons, with innumerable packages, taken off in a tug to New Brunswick--_Rimouski_ was the name of the town, and the still greater excitement followed of receiving from it the Secretary of the Lodging Committee at Montreal, who brought quant.i.ties of letters, papers, &c. I had a letter from Mr. Angus, asking me and a son to stay with them during our visit to Montreal, and it is close to where d.i.c.k is invited (Mr. and Mrs. McClennan's), and near John and E---. I also heard from Mr. Dobell, very kindly offering his house and carriage for my use while at Quebec; he and his family are away camping in the woods. You never saw a scene of greater excitement than the appearance of the saloon when the President opened the parcel containing letters, newspapers, and telegrams, after a week's total abstinence from all news; everyone _seized_ upon their respective letters, &c., with eagerness; the only person who did not look happy, was John, for he found the arrangements made would be too much for him, and he and Captain Gallon set themselves to try and alter them, in which I hope they will succeed. The Secretary sat opposite me at dinner, and told me how anxious they all were to make everything comfortable for us. It is doubtful whether we stay at Quebec to-morrow night, or go on to Montreal at once, as there is to be an excursion on Friday next to Quebec, and grand reception, and picnic or garden party on the following day. If you find a difficulty in reading the indelible pencil, tell me; it is more convenient to use travelling. We had an interesting conference on prayer this afternoon (Sunday), and I have just returned from another smaller one. A scientific man asked questions as to whether we could _prove_ answers to prayer would be given for _physical_ blessings, or what we consider such; or whether prayer was only a sentiment (as Tyndal thinks)? Professor Barrett and a dear old clergyman, Canon Rogers (who, in my ignorance, I had thought, at first, was a "dry stick") argued the matter with him, and also Dr. P. Smith and his son, and Miss Fox and I said a few words. Now, about nine o'clock, they are all singing hymns, very much out of tune. I must finish this up now for it must be posted to-morrow, or may miss the mail on Tuesday. I have thoroughly enjoyed the last three days, and am almost sorry the voyage is over, and so, I think, are many of my fellow pa.s.sengers. Some of them are very good and nice. Miss Fox is delightful--upwards of eighty, and yet so full of interest in everything good and beautiful; she is like a piece cut out of the old past, and a very wonderful old fossil, full of energy and cleverness. Hedley desires his love, and is very well and happy. We go to 240, Drummond Street, Montreal, on Monday or Tuesday, d.i.c.k in same street, and John and E--- near. Gibson has never been ill at all! Good-bye, now, and G.o.d bless you all, darling Mother, and everyone dear to me at home. Two or three times during the gale, Hedley and I said to each other, "How nice it would be to be sitting with you at No. 90, O--- G---."--but now we have not that desire' From your loving child,--C. R.

Letter No. 2.

_Tuesday, August 26th, Beavoir, Quebec._

My first letter was brought up to 24th. I forgot to tell you then of an interesting discussion with a clever and honest infidel, Mr. X---.

Through ---- (who had told me about him), I had lent him "Natural Law,"

and (seeing him standing about looking, I thought, rather sad as we were all singing "Rock of Ages, cleft for me") I asked him his opinion of the book, and he said "on Mr. D.'s a.s.sumption of the existence of a Personal G.o.d, it is very clever, and with your views I would certainly circulate it." Of course, I could not argue with a man well armed at all points for attack (as these infidels generally are), though they are weak enough at defence, their explanations of life's mysteries being as unsatisfactory and vague as that of any ignorant Bible woman; and so when others joined us I gave way, and he said as a _crusher_--"I see you are a very sincere and conscientious lady, but you are very _fanatical_." I replied, as my parting shot, "Well, of course, I cannot do justice to my cause, but at any rate you have nothing to offer _me_; convince me and others, if you can, that we are wrong (and thank G.o.d we have a n.o.ble army on our side), what have you to give us in the place of our beliefs? Nothing! a mere negation." He answered--"What have you to give me?" "Oh," I replied, "a mere _nothing, only_ peace and power for holiness now and a glorious hope for the future, and so (shaking hands) good bye." I could scarcely speak to him for crying, for it was so painful to hear his words about our Blessed Saviour. After our discussion on prayer in the back cabin, a young man who was there and who was sitting near me while I was writing to you, began to talk it over. "Well," I said, "the best answer to those objections about prayer that I know, is to try it, and then I am sure no arguments will then shake your confidence that there is a G.o.d who heareth and answereth prayer." It is like our Lord's cure of the blind man. "How did He do it?" they ask, and ask in vain for any explanation which could be understood, but the man says "I don't know, but whereas I was blind, now I see," and the Pharisees beat themselves to pieces against that rock.

You may imagine I went to my berth heartily tired after the excitement of this long day.

_Monday, 25th._--I got up at six and rushed on deck, and with a lovely clear sky and shining sun and a brisk breeze, I found we were steaming along the river St. Lawrence. We devoured with our eyes the beautiful views on each side, mountains of blue and violet, wooded to their summits, and Canadian villages nestling at their feet on the banks of the river, with glittering spires of _blanche_ for every seven miles, like tall milestones, and then we reached the entrance to Quebec, which is indeed magnificent! the splendid water-way, with the fine position of Quebec, makes it a grand sight, and I was not disappointed; and the clear and brilliant morning sunshine showed us all to perfection. Then came such a scene of hurry and confusion,--but we were favored: Captain R. Stephenson, the Governor-General's A.D.C., who had been our fellow pa.s.senger, received instructions from him, and we were conveyed in a police steamboat to the other side--to the Citadel; there was also a letter from Lord Lansdowne to John, asking him and E--- and any of his party to breakfast, brought by Captain Streatfield, another A.D.C. Our maids and luggage were left in charge of the police at their wharf station. On reaching the wharf a carriage conveyed us to the Citadel,--such a drive, up the side of a house! over a great many boulders. A curious old town is Quebec--thoroughly like a French town, with French spoken everywhere, and French dirt and air of poverty and untidiness, as in the remoter and older towns of France.

Lord and Lady Lansdowne received us most kindly, and besides there was Lady Florence Anson (her niece, who is engaged to Captain Streatfield), Lady Melgund, whose husband is away in Ottawa looking after canoe men for Egypt, and a young Mr. Anson, A.D.C. After seeing the view from the balcony--a splendid panorama of Quebec and the river St. Lawrence, with its tributary St. Charles, and the surrounding country backed by blue mountains, we went in to our second breakfast, and much we enjoyed our tea. Lord Lansdowne sat next me and was very pleasant. Afterwards he asked John and E--- and me and the boys to dine, apologising for not asking us all to sleep there, on the grounds of not having room, which is true enough, for the house is not large. I thought it best to decline for myself and two sons, as I was going with them for the night to this place (Mr. Dobell's), four miles away. Then came a Secretary of the Local Committee to discuss arrangements with John, and alter the programme somewhat for next Friday and Sat.u.r.day, when we are expected to revisit Quebec.

John is much afraid that the long-list of engagements will bring on his rheumatism and knock him up for the real Business in Montreal. After this we had the carriage and drove in state to the Hotel where John and E--- were to sleep, arranged about our berths on the steamer for Montreal, saw numbers of our fellow-pa.s.sengers who had not gone to Montreal, and drove to the wharf and only brought a little luggage to come here with. They told me I should not want umbrellas ("Our climate here is very different from yours," said they), nor wraps, but I persisted in bringing a few, fortunately, for it has been pouring all night and up to this time (twelve o'clock Wednesday), and it was so cold besides. While at the hotel (I forgot to mention _that_) a card was handed to me with Mr. Price's name on it. I could not think who he was, but he soon came and mentioned Capt. F--- (Julia Spicer's son-in-law), and then I remembered he had promised to mention us to the Prices. He offered to drive one of the ladies in his buggy to his house near the Montmerenci Falls, where we were all to lunch, and E--- went in it, and the rest of us drove in another carriage to his place, about five miles off. The drive was delightful and his cottage a picture--a little, fat, fair motherly woman for a wife, with two little chicks, and a lady friend. They took us down some steps to the Falls, the river Montmerenci falling 500 feet, and it was very fine, the view being improved by the figures of our fellow-pa.s.sengers on the opposite side making struggling efforts to gain good positions, which we achieved in all ease and comfort. Then we returned to an excellent luncheon, very pleasantly diversified to us by Indian corn, which we learned to eat in an ungraceful but excellent fashion on the cob, blueberry tart and cream.

This was our _third_ substantial meal on Tuesday. Several visitors called, and among them our fellow-pa.s.sengers, Mr. Stephen Bourne and his daughters and two friends, who are also staying here, a gentleman with three other ladies (two of whom had been on the "Parisian") who said he had been staying lately with one of them in Cheshire, so I concluded he was an English-Canadian and said heartily: "That's right, keep up with the old country. You come to see us and we come to see you." And he responded graciously, but I heard after that he was a French-Canadian and R. C., and they are not fond of England, but cling very much to French ways and customs and are entirely in the hands of their priests.

They are a quiet, moral people, marry very young and have very large families. It is quite common to hare ten children, and they live at what we should call a starvation rate; yet they will not go to service, contribute hardly anything to the revenue, and so the English, who are the only active and money-making section of the population, are heavily taxed; of course _I_ speak of the poor and working cla.s.ses. The province of Quebec is, therefore, not a favourite one with enterprising spirits from our sh.o.r.es or from other parts of Canada.

After these visitors were gone, Mr. Price drove me and E---, and the rest walked, to the "Natural Steps." It was a beautiful spot, the clear torrent of the river Montmerenci falling in cascades over a curious formation of layers of stone and steps on either side, with the bright green _arbor vitae_, which they call cedar, growing above and in every niche it can find a bit of soil; wild raspberries and strawberries too, which, alas, were over. We met several of our fellow-pa.s.sengers, and we greet one another like long-lost friends. On our return we found Mrs. Price had cuddled her ailing boy to sleep and could give us some attention. We had delicious tea and cake (our fourth meal). Mr. Price comes from Boss, in Herefordshire, and has been twelve years away from it. He is very nice and intelligent. Her brother owns the Falls and lives in a pretty cottage near. Edison, the electric light inventor, has bought the power of these falls for electric purposes. John was thinking all the time how useful they might be made. We returned to the hotel in time for John and E--- to dress for the Governor-General's dinner party.

We took a little baggage and Gibson and came here--a dark drive, and we were shaken to bits in what is justly called a _rockaway_ carriage.

We were met at the door by Mr. Dobell, much to our surprise, for he and his family had returned unexpectedly from camping out, as it proved a failure, and rushed home to receive us. She is handsome, and quite English in tone and manner, daughter of the Minister of the Interior, Sir David Macpherson. Mr. Dobell is very bright and pleasant-looking, the house pretty and comfortable, with large conservatory. We Had a tremendous supper (our fifth meal) and so I could hardly do justice to it. I went to bed very tired after this hard day's work and awoke this morning to find it pouring, so I have been taking advantage of the quiet to write to you. d.i.c.k and Mr. Dobell went to Quebec, and we follow at three. They hope to have some organ-playing in the Cathedral. Mr. S.

Bourne and his young ladies are also gone, and we are to leave at three and start at five in the river steamboat for Montreal. Tell Edward and Lisa, &c., &c., about us. We all thoroughly enjoyed everything yesterday except that we wanted warmer clothes. They had tremendous heat here before we arrived, and so every one was advising us to wear light clothing!--and the weather changed!

LETTER NO. 3

_August 29th, 240, Drummond Street, Montreal._

We left the hospitable Dobells on Tuesday, 26th, took our luggage from the police station, receiving many bows and much politeness from the several Canadians in charge and, with about one thousand others, besides soldiers, went on board a very large steamer--a new experience, for these river steamers are quite different from anything we see on this side, even I think, on the Rhine,--the Lansdownes were in it and we saw something of them. An uncomfortable night, and were glad to reach this, Wednesday morning, at about eight o'clock. Such a ma.s.s of luggage and people, but as Mr. Angus kindly sent a carriage and man to meet us, I did very well and arrived safely with all mine.

I drove with Hedley and Miss Angus in the afternoon (there are four grown-up young ladies) and finally got out at the Queen's Hall, where the Mayor read an address in French, and after Sir William Thomson had spoken, John said a few words. There was a great crowd here, and we sang "G.o.d Save the Queen" with enthusiasm. We dined at half-past six and afterwards the two Misses Angus and Hedley and I drove to the Hall.

Lord and Lady Lansdowne sat on the platform, and after a nice speech from him, Sir William Thomson introduced John as the new President with many compliments. Then, dear John, looking so nice, with a clear voice, read his address, and I am told it was heard even in the gallery at the end. I liked it extremely, and people seem to think it was very good.

Our party, Evelyn, d.i.c.k, &c., sat in the front row, and when John read one or two pa.s.sages which he thought would particularly "fetch" me, he looked with a little twinkle in my direction and of course I twinkled in return.