The Art of Modern Lace Making - Part 5
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Part 5

No. 11.

BATTENBURG EDGING.

The edging here ill.u.s.trated is represented about one-third less than its actual width, but the design is so distinctly brought out that its beauty in any width may be readily conceived. It is formed of fancy Battenburg braid, but may be made from a plain variety if preferred. The design is known as the fern leaf and is easy to follow. Sorrento bars are used to connect the work, and "spiders" are made here and there to add variety to the work. Point de Bruxelles st.i.tches are used to fill in the s.p.a.ces at the sides of the leaves, and, with the fancy braid, produce a very dainty, delicate effect.

[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 11.--Battenburg Edging.]

No. 12.

BATTENBURG INSERTION.

This insertion is made to match the edging seen above it, but is much wider than the edging, though formed of the same braid. Either design could be varied so as to result in an edging and insertion of equal width, or the edging could be arranged for an insertion, and the insertion ill.u.s.trated changed into an edging.

[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 12.--Battenburg Insertion.]

No. 13.

FINGER-BOWL DOILY OF PRINCESS LACE AND LINEN LAWN.

Princess lace, (also known as d.u.c.h.esse lace) as elsewhere mentioned, results from combining Honiton and point lace braids in one design; and a charming specimen of this lovely lace is here ill.u.s.trated.

The doily is pictured only a trifle smaller than its actual size, and even in its full size is a very dainty affair. After the braids are basted along the design, they are then connected by twisted bars that are an adaptation from the point d'Alencon bars with the twisted st.i.tch; and the s.p.a.ces are filled in in small d'Angleterre rosettes or "spiders." As few bars as possible are employed for the spiders, in order to produce a very delicate effect. The lawn center is added last.

[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 13.--Finger-Bowl Doily of Princess Lace and Linen Lawn.]

No. 14.

DESIGN FOR INSERTION, OR A CENTER-PIECE, IN BATTENBURG LACE.

As suggested by the t.i.tle, the design here presented may be used for insertion, or for a center to a table cloth or scarf, or a handsome spread. As represented it is intended for a center-piece, and the lace from which the engraving was made is about half-a-yard long and one-fourth of a yard wide. The ground-work is formed of Raleigh bars made with picots, and the loops of braid are filled in with twisted point d'Alencon bars.

This center-piece is very pretty made of ribbon with silk thread for the bars, and in this event it may be made of any color desired, and added to a spread or scarf of Surah silk or fine cloth, for which a border to match may be made.

[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 14.--Design for Insertion, or a Center-piece, in Battenburg Lace.]

No. 15.

QUEEN ANNE TRAY-CLOTH OF BATTENBURG LACE AND LINEN.

This pretty cloth is intended for a Queen Anne tray, and its lace edges curve upward and just over the rim of the tray when it is laid upon it.

The center is of fine table-linen, while the edge is formed of Battenburg braid, b.u.t.tons and fancy st.i.tches. As will be seen, the corner s.p.a.ces are filled in with point d'Angleterre rosettes or "spiders," the large border s.p.a.ces and corresponding corner ones are filled in with picot bars, while the very fine work seen in the triangles and square s.p.a.ces are point de Venise st.i.tches, and half-spiders are made in the other triangles. The narrow, straight inner border is composed of bars and tiny b.u.t.tons arranged as represented. The cloth is hem-st.i.tched before the braid is laid on, and the corners are cut out from underneath after the work is otherwise completed.

[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 15.--Queen Anne Tray-Cloth of Battenburg Lace and Linen.]

No. 16.

DESIGN FOR A b.u.t.tERFLY IN POINT LACE. (FULL SIZE).

b.u.t.terflies for the corners of handkerchiefs, scarf-ends and the points of caps or coiffures are favorite designs in point and Honiton laces.

The one ill.u.s.trated is very dainty and exceedingly simple to execute.

The upper portion of each wing has a point de reprise ground-work, but the solid sections are tiny spiders instead of point de reprise triangles. The outer tips of the wings are filled in with Raleigh bars, while similar bars, point de Bruxelles st.i.tches and a point d'Angleterre rosette complete the lower wings. Any of the fine point or Honiton braids may be chosen for the outlining of the b.u.t.terfly, and a fine over-and-over st.i.tch or fine cord may be used to mark the lines extending from the head.

[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 16.--Design for a b.u.t.terfly in Point Lace. (Full Size).]

No. 17.

DESIGN FOR A DOILY OR HANDKERCHIEF OF POINT OR HONITON LACE.

This design, as ill.u.s.trated, is of course too small for either a doily or handkerchief, but an expert lace-maker can enlarge it to any size desired; and the clever amateur will find no difficulty in doing the same thing, as the outlines are not at all intricate, and may be easily followed. In sending for the braid for this, or similar designs, it is advisable to permit the lace-maker addressed to select them, and of course, the thread, since her long experience enables her at once to correctly judge what materials are appropriate for the articles you wish to make, especially if she knows the size the article is desired to be.

The st.i.tches, as here indicated, are point d'Angleterre rosettes, and point de fillet, with small "spiders" on the latter. A dainty picot-braid edges the design.

[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 17.--Design for a Doily or Handkerchief of Point or Honiton Lace. (Half Size.)]

No. 18.

"CARDINAL'S POINT" LACE.

This engraving represents a modern adaptation of an ancient lace which may be made of fancy Battenburg braid and plain Raleigh bars. The design is not especially definite in its outlines, and may be imitated with any variations which may seem pleasing to the copyist. The picots are made after the method directed at the ill.u.s.tration of point de Venise bars in the department devoted to st.i.tches. "Cardinal's point" of genuine make is of Italian origin, and in the earlier eras, was largely used for the decoration of church vestments and draperies.

[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 18.--"Cardinal's Point" Lace.]

Nos. 19 and 20.

BATTENBURG EDGING AND INSERTION, WITH CORD.

These two engravings show a very pretty design for Battenburg lace made with a cord finish. The application of the cord has been fully described elsewhere, where a different design of the same kind of work is given.

In the present instance the s.p.a.ces are filled in with twisted bars, "spiders" and rosettes in point d'Angleterre. The specimens from which the engravings were made are a trifle wider than seen in the pictures; but the width is a matter of individual taste, and also a result of the braid selected. A professional lace-maker will enlarge or adapt the design to accord with personal requirements.

[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 19.--Battenburg Edging, with Cord.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 20.--Battenburg Insertion, with Cord.]

No. 21.

TAPE-GUIPURE DESIGN, FOUND IN AN OLD CHURCH.

The design here ill.u.s.trated was found in the old church of Santa Margherita, in Italy. It was drawn on parchment, and was undoubtedly intended as a design for altar lace. It was mentioned in a book of accounts for the year 1592, found in the archives of the church designated and is therefore of antique origin; but it may be easily adapted to modern methods of lace-making, and could be appropriately filled in with either Italian or Genoa lace st.i.tches or with a combination of both, and twisted bars. Done with fancy Battenburg braid, it would be quite similar in effect to the "Cardinal's Point"

ill.u.s.trated on another page.

[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 21.--Tape-Guipure Design, found in an Old Church.]