The accomplisht cook.

by Robert May.

_To the Right Honourable my _Lord Montague,_ My _Lord Lumley,_ and my _Lord Dormer;_ and to the Right worshipful Sir _Kenelme Digby,_ so well known to this Nation for their Admired Hospitalities._

_Right Honourable, and Right Worshipful_,

He is an Alien, a meer Stranger in _England_, that hath not been acquainted with your generous House-keepings; for my own part my more particular tyes of service to you my Honoured Lords, have built me up to the height of this Experience, for which this Book now at last dares appear to the World; those times which I tended upon your Honours were those Golden Days of Peace and Hospitality when you enjoyed your own, so as to entertain and releive others.

Right Honourable, and Right Worshipful, I have not only been an eye-witness, but interested by my attendance; so as that I may justly acknowledge those Triumphs and magnificent Trophies of Cookery that have adorned your Tables; nor can I but confess to the world, except I should be Guilty of the highest Ingrat.i.tude, that the only structure of this my Art and knowledge, I owed to your costs, generous and inimitable Epences; thus not only I have derived my experience, but your Country hath reapt the Plenty of your Humanity and charitable Bounties.

Right Honourable, and Right Worshipful, Hospitality which was once a Relique of the Gentry, and a known Cognizance to all ancient Houses, hath lost her t.i.tle through the unhappy and Cruel Disturbances of these Times, she is now reposing of her lately so alarmed Head on your beds of Honour: In the mean s.p.a.ce that our English World may know the _Mecaena_'s and Patrons of this Generous Art, I have exposed this Volume to the Publick, under the Tuition of your Names; at whose Feet I prostrate these Endeavours, and shall for ever remain

_Your most humble devoted Servant._ _ROBERT MAY._

_From _Soleby_ in _Leicestershire_, September 29. 1684._

_To the Master Cooks, and to such young Pract.i.tioners of the Art of Cookery, to whom this Book may be useful._

To you first, most worthy Artists, I acknowledg one of the chief Motives that made me to adventure this Volume to your Censures, hath been to testifie my grat.i.tude to your experienced Society; nor could I omit to direct it to you, as it hath been my ambition, that you should be sensible of my Proficiency of Endeavours in this Art. To all honest well intending Men of our Profession, or others, this Book cannot but be acceptable, as it plainly and profitably discovers the _Mystery_ of the _whole Art_; for which, though I may be _envied by some that only value their private Interests above Posterity, and the publick good_, yet G.o.d and my own Conscience would not permit me _to bury these my Experiences with my Silver Hairs in the Grave_: and that more especially, as the advantages of my Education hath raised me above the _Ambitions_ of others, in the converse I have had with other _Nations_, who in this _Art_ fall short of what I _have known experimented by you my worthy Country men_. Howsoever, the _French by their Insinuations, not without enough of Ignorance_, have bewitcht some of the _Gallants of our Nation_ with Epigram Dishes, smoakt rather than drest, so strangely to captivate the _Gusto_, their _Mushroom'd Experiences_ for _Sauce_ rather than _Diet_, for the generality howsoever called _A-la-mode_, not worthy of being taken notice on. As I live in _France_, and had the Language and have been an eye-witness of their _Cookeries_ as well, as a Peruser of their Ma.n.u.scripts, and Printed _Authors_ whatsoever I found good in them, I have inserted in this _Volume_.

I do acknowledg my self not to be a little beholding to the _Italian_ and _Spanish_ Treatises; though without my fosterage, and bringing up under the _Generosities_ and _Bounties of my n.o.ble Patrons and Masters_, I could never have arrived to this _Experience_. To be confined and limited to the narrowness of a Purse, is to want the _Materials_ from which the _Artist_ must gain his knowledge. Those _Honourable Persons_, _my Lord_ Lumley, and others, with whom I have spent a part of my time, were such whose generous cost never weighed the Expence, so that they might arrive to that right and high esteem they had of their _Gusto's_. Whosoever peruses this _Volume_ shall find it amply exemplified in _Dishes_ of such high prices, which only these _n.o.blesses Hospitalities_ did reach to: I should have sinned against their (to be perpetuated) Bounties, if I had not set down their several varieties, that the _Reader_ might be as well acquainted with what is extraordinary, as what is ordinary in this _Art_; as I am truly sensible, that some of those things that I have set down will amaze a not thorow-paced _Reader_ in the _Art of Cookery_, as they are Delicates, never till this time made known to the World.

_Fellow Cooks_, that I might give a testimony to my _Countrey_ of the _laudableness of our Profession_, that I might encourage young Undertakers to make a Progress in the _Practice of this Art_, I have laid open these Experiences, as I was most unwilling to hide my Talent, but have ever endeavoured to do good to others; I acknowledge that there hath already been _several Books publisht_, and amongst the rest some out of the _French_, for ought I could perceive to very little purpose, _empty and unprofitable Treatises_, of as little use as some _n.i.g.g.ards Kitchens_, which the _Reader_ in respect of the confusion of the Method, or barrenness of those _Authors_ experience, hath rather been puzled then profited by; as those already extant Authors have trac't but one common beaten Road, repeating for the main what others have in the same homely manner done before them: It hath been my task to denote some _new Faculty or Science_, that others have not yet discovered; this the _Reader_ will quickly discern by those _new Terms of Art_ which he shall meet withal throughout this _whole Volume_. Some things I have inserted of _Carving and Sewing_ that I might demonstrate the whole Art. In the contrivance of these my labours, I have so managed them for the general good, that those whose Purses cannot reach to the cost of rich Dishes, I have descended to their meaner Expences, that they may give, though upon a sudden Treatment, to their Kindred, Friends, Allies and Acquaintance, a handsome and relishing entertainment in all seasons of the year, though at some distance from Towns or Villages. Nor have my serious considerations been wanting amongst direction for Diet how to order what belongs to the sick, as well as to those that are in health; and withal my care hath been such, that in this Book as in a Closet, is contained all such Secrets as relate to _Preserving_, _Conserving_, _Candying_, _Distilling_, and such rare varieties as they are most concern'd in the _best husbandring and huswifering_ of them. Nor is there any Book except that of the _Queens Closet_, which was so _enricht with Receipts_ presented to her _Majesty_, as yet that I ever saw in any _Language_, that ever contained so many _profitable Experiences, as in this Volume_: in all which the _Reader_ shall find most of the _Compositions_, and mixtures easie to be prepared, most pleasing to the Palate, and not too chargeable to the Purse; since you are at liberty to employ as much or as little therein as you please.

In this Edition I have enlarged the whole Work; and there is added two hundred several Figures of all sorts of Pies, Tarts, Custards, Cheesecakes, &c. more than was in the former: You will find them in Tables directed to the _Folio_ they have relation to; there being such variety of Forms, the Artists may use which of them they please.

It is impossible for any _Author_ to please all People, no more than the best Cook can fancy their Palats whose Mouths are always out of taste. As for those who make it their business to hide their Candle under a Bushel, to do only good to themselves, and not to others, such as will curse me for revealing the Secrets of this Art, I value the discharge of my own Conscience, in doing Good, above all their malice; protesting to the whole world, that I have not _concealed any material Secret_ of above my _fifty and five years Experience_; my Father _being a Cook_ under whom in my Child-hood I was bred up in this Art.

To conclude, the diligent Peruser of this _Volume_ gains that in a small time (as to the _Theory_) which an _Apprenticeship_ with some _Masters_ could never have taught them. I have no more to do, but to desire of G.o.d a blessing upon these my Endeavours; and remain.

_Yours in the most ingenious ways of Friendship_, ROBERT MAY.

Sholeby in Leicestershire, _Sept. 30. 1664_.

_A short Narrative of some Pa.s.sages of the Authors Life._

For the better knowledge of the worth of this Book, though it be not usual, the _Author_ being living, it will not be amiss to acquaint the _Reader_ with a breif account of some pa.s.sages of his Life, as also the eminent Persons (renowned for their House-keeping) whom he hath served through the whole series of his Life; for as the growth of Children argue the strength of the Parents, so doth the judgment and abilities of the Artist conduce to the making and goodness of the Work: now that such great knowledge in this commendable Art was not gained but by long experience, practise, and converse with the most able men in their times, the _Reader_ in this breif Narrative may be informed by what steps and degrees he ascended to the same.

He was born in the year of our Lord 1588. His Father being one of the ablest _Cooks_ in his time, and his first Tutor in the knowledge and practice of Cookery; under whom having attained to some perfection in this Art, the old Lady _Dormer_ sent him over into _France_, where he continued five years, being in the Family of a n.o.ble Peer, and first President of _Paris_; where he gained not only the _French_ Tongue but also bettered his Knowledge in his _Cookery_, and returning again into _England_, was bound an Apprentice in _London_ to Mr. _Arthur Hollinsworth_ in _Newgate Market_, one of the ablest Work-men in _London_, Cook to the _Grocers Hall and Star Chamber_. His Apprentiship being out, the Lady _Dormer_ sent for him to be her Cook under Father (who then served that Honourable Lady) where were four Cooks more, such n.o.ble Houses were then kept, the glory of that, and the shame of this present Age; then were those Golden Days wherein were practised the _Triumphs and Trophies of Cookery_; then was Hospitality esteemed, Neighbourhood preserved, the Poor cherished, and G.o.d honoured; then was Religion less talkt on, and more practised; then was Atheism & Schism less in fashion: then did men strive to be good, rather then to seem so. Here he continued till the Lady _Dormer_ died, and then went again to _London_, and served the Lord _Castlehaven_, after that the Lord _Lumley_, that great lover and knower of Art, who wanted no knowledge in the discerning this mystery; next the Lord _Montague_ in _Suss.e.x_; and at the beginning of these wars, the Countess of _Kent_, then Mr. _Nevel_ of _Crissen Temple_ in _Ess.e.x_, whose Ancestors the _Smiths_ (of whom he is descended) were the greatest maintainers of Hospitality in all those parts; nor doth the present M. _Nevel_ degenerate from their laudable examples. Divers other Persons of like esteem and quality hath he served; as the Lord _Rivers_, Mr. _John Ashburnam_ of the Bed-Chambers, Dr. _Steed_ in _Kent_, Sir _Thomas Stiles_ of _Drury Lane_ in _London_, Sir _Marmaduke Constable_ in _York-shire_, Sir _Charles Lucas_; and lastly the Right Honourable the Lady _Englefield_, where he now liveth.

Thus have I given you a breif account of his Life, I shall next tell you in what high esteem this n.o.ble Art was with the Ancient Romans: _Plutarch_ reports, that _Lucullus_ his ordinary diet was fine dainty dishes, with works of pastry, banketting dishes, and fruit curiously wrought and prepared; that, his Table might be furnished with choice of varieties, (as the n.o.ble Lord _Lumley_ did) that he kept and nourished all manner of Fowl all the year long. To this purpose he telleth us a story how _Pompey_ being sick, the Physitians willed him to eat a Thrush, and it being said there was none to be had; because it was then Summer; it was answered they might have them at _Lucullus_'s house who kept both Thrushes and all manner of Fowl, all the year long. This _Lucullus_ was for his Hospitality so esteemed in _Rome_, that there was no talk, but of his n.o.ble House-keeping. The said _Plutarch_ reports how _Cicero_ and _Pompey_ inviting themselves to sup with him, they would not let him speak with his men to provide any thing more then ordinary; but he telling them he would sup in _Apollo_, (a Chamber so named, and every Chamber proportioned their expences) he by this wile beguil'd them, and a supper was made ready estimated at fifty thousand pence, every _Roman_ penny being seven pence half penny _English_ money; a vast sum for that Age, before the _Indies_ had overflowed _Europe_. But I have too far digressed from the Author of whom I might speak much more as in relation to his Person and abilities, but who will cry out the Sun shines? this already said is enough to satisfie any but the malicious, who are the greatest enemies to all honest endeavours. _Homer_ had his _Zoilus_, and _Virgil_ his _Bavius_; the best Wits have had their detractors, and the greatest Artists have been maligned; the best on't is, such Works as these outlive their _Authors_ with an honurable respect of Posterity, whilst envious Criticks never survive their own happiness, their Lives going out like the snuff of a Candle.

_W. W._

_Triumphs and Trophies in Cookery, to be used at Festival Times, as _Twelfth-day_, &c._

Make the likeness of a Ship in Paste-board, with Flags and Streamers, the Guns belonging to it of Kickses, bind them about with packthread, and cover them with close paste proportionable to the fashion of a Cannon with Carriages, lay them in places convenient as you see them in Ships of war, with such holes and trains of powder that they may all take Fire; Place your Ship firm in the great Charger; then make a salt round about it, and stick therein egg-sh.e.l.ls full of sweet water, you may by a great Pin take all the meat out of the egg by blowing, and then fill it up with the rose-water, then in another Charger have the proportion of a Stag made of course paste, with a broad Arrow in the side of him, and his body filled up with claret-wine; in another Charger at the end of the Stag have the proportion of a Castle with Battlements, Portcullices, Gates and Draw-Bridges made of Past-board, the Guns and Kickses, and covered with course paste as the former; place it at a distance from the ship to fire at each other. The Stag being placed betwixt them with egg sh.e.l.ls full of sweet water (as before) placed in salt. At each side of the Charger wherein is the Stag, place a Pye made of course paste, in one of which let there be some live Frogs, in each other some live Birds; make these Pyes of course Paste filled with bran, and yellowed over with saffron or the yolks of eggs, guild them over in spots, as also the Stag, the Ship, and Castle; bake them, and place them with guilt bay-leaves on turrets and tunnels of the Castle and Pyes; being baked, make a hole in the bottom of your pyes, take out the bran, put in your Frogs, and Birds, and close up the holes with the same course paste, then cut the Lids neatly up; To be taken off the Tunnels; being all placed in order upon the Table, before you fire the trains of powder, order it so that some of the Ladies may be perswaded to pluck the Arrow out of the Stag, then will the Claret-wine follow, as blood that runneth out of a wound. This being done with admiration to the beholders, after some short pause, fire the train of the Castle, that the pieces all of one side may go off, then fire the Trains, of one side of the Ship as in a battel; next turn the Chargers; and by degrees fire the trains of each other side as before. This done to sweeten the stink of powder, let the Ladies take the egg-sh.e.l.ls full of sweet waters and throw them at each other. All dangers being seemingly over, by this time you may suppose they will desire to see what is in the pyes; where lifting first the lid off one pye, out skip some Frogs, which make the Ladies to skip and shreek; next after the other pye, whence come out the Birds, who by a natural instinct flying in the light, will put out the Candles; so that what with the flying Birds and skipping Frogs, the one above, the other beneath, will cause much delight and pleasure to the whole company: at length the Candles are lighted, and a banquet brought in, the Musick sounds, and every one with much delight and content rehea.r.s.es their actions in the former pa.s.sages. These were formerly the delight of the n.o.bility, before good House-keeping had left _England_, and the Sword really acted that which was only counterfeited in such honest and laudable Exercises as these.

[Decoration]

_On the Unparalell'd Piece of _Mr. May_ His Cookery._

See here a work set forth of such perfection, Will praise it self, and doth not beg protection From flatter'd greatness. Industry and pains For gen'ral good, his aim, his Countrey gains; Which ought respect him. A good _English_ Cook, Excellent Modish Monsieurs, and that Book Call'd _Perfect Cook_, _Merete's_ Pastery Translated, looks like old hang'd Tapistry, The wrong side outwards: so Monsieur adieu, I'm for our Native _Mays_ Works rare and new, Who with Antique could have prepar'd and drest The Nations _quondam_ grand Imperial Feast, Which that thrice Crown'd Third _Edward_ did ordain For his high Order, and their n.o.ble Train, Whereon St. _George_ his famous Day was seen, A Court on Earth that did all Courts out-shine.

And how all Rarities and Cates might be Order'd for a Renown'd Solemnity, Learn of this Cook, who with judgment, and reason, Teacheth for every Time, each thing its true Season; Making his Compounds with such harmony, Taste shall not charge with superiority Of Pepper, Salt, or Spice, by the best Pallat, Or any one Herb in his broths or Sallat.

Where Temperance and Discretion guides his deeds; _Satis_ his Motto, where nothing exceeds.

Or ought to wast, for there's good Husbandry To be observ'd, as Art in Cookery.

Which of the Mathematicks doth pertake, Geometry proportions when they bake.

Who can in paste erect (of finest flour) A compleat Fort, a Castle, or a Tower.

A City Custard doth so subtly wind, That should Truth seek, she'd scarce all corners find; Platform of Sconces, that might Souldiers teach, To fortifie by works as well as Preach.

I'le say no more; for as I am a sinner, I've wrought my self a stomach to a dinner.

Inviting Poets not to tantalize, But feast, (not surfeit) here their Fantasies.

_James Parry._

_To the Reader of (my very loving Friend) Mr. _Robert May_ his incomparable Book of Cookery._

See here's a Book set forth with such things in't, As former Ages never saw in Print; Something I'de write in praise on't, but the Pen, Of Famous _Cleaveland_, or renowned _Ben_, If unintomb'd might give this Book its due, By their high strains, and keep it always new.

But I whose ruder Stile could never clime, Or step beyond a home-bred Country Rhime, Must not attempt it: only this I'le say, _Cato_'s _Res Rustica_'s far short of _May_.

Here's taught to keep all sorts of flesh in date, All sorts of Fish, if you will marinate; To candy, to preserve, to souce, to pickle, To make rare Sauces, both to please, and tickle The pretty Ladies palats with delight; Both how to glut, and gain an Appet.i.te.

The Fritter, Pancake, Mushroom; with all these, The curious Caudle made of Ambergriese.

He is so universal, he'l not miss, The Pudding, nor Bolonian Sausages.

Italian, Spaniard, French, he all out-goes, Refines their Kickshaws, and their Olio's, The rarest use of Sweet-meats, Spicery, And all things else belong to Cookery: Not only this, but to give all content, Here's all the Forms of every Implement To work or carve with, so he makes the able To deck the Dresser, and adorn the Table.

What dish goes first of every kind of Meat, And so ye're welcom, pray fall too, and eat.

_Reader_, read on, for I have done; farewell, The Book's so good, it cannot chuse but sell.

_Thy well-wishing Friend_,

John Town.