Self-Instructor in the Art of Hair Work.

by Mark Campbell.

PREFACE.

The necessity for a comprehensive work, giving a full and detailed explanation of the Art of manufacturing Hair Work in all its various branches, has been so frequently urged upon the attention of the author, that, in compliance with an almost universal demand, he has concluded to publish a book which will clearly ill.u.s.trate the Art of Hair Dressing, and making Hair Jewelry and Hair Work of every description. His perfect familiarity with the business--the result of many years' successful experience--renders him eminently competent to impart the fullest information upon the subject of which he treats, while the great consumption and rapidly increasing demand for every description of Hair Goods, will make this work he now presents to the public, one of particular interest to all cla.s.ses. Heretofore the Art of making these goods has been zealously guarded by a few dealers, who have acc.u.mulated fortunes, and would still retain it a profound secret but for the publication of this book. This is the only descriptive volume ever published on Hair Work. It is an elaborate, carefully prepared book, containing over one thousand drawings, devices and diagrams, engraved at great expense to the publisher, and accompanied with the most comprehensive instructions. It not only reveals to the most ordinary comprehension the hitherto concealed mysteries of the Art, but will prove an indispensable adjunct to every lady's toilet table, as by its aid she will not only be able to dress her own hair in every variety of style, but make her own Hair Jewelry and articles of Hair work, including Switches, Braids, Curls, Waterfalls, &c., a.s.sisted by a reference to plates of the most modern European and American styles. For children, no art or accomplishment is more useful than the ability to make articles of tasteful ornament in Hair Work. This work will open to all such persons a path to agreeable and profitable occupation. Jewelry Dealers, from the clear instructions herein given, can manufacture any required pattern of Hair Jewelry, and add, without extra expense, a new and lucrative branch to their business.

Persons wishing to preserve and weave into lasting mementos, the hair of a deceased father, mother, sister, brother, or child, can also enjoy the inexpressible advantage and satisfaction of _knowing_ that the material of their own handiwork is the actual hair of the "loved and gone."

No other work ever met with such an earnest demand as this treatise upon the art of Hair Braiding. It must certainly commend itself to the ladies of our country as invaluable. Even a hasty perusal will convince every one of its utility and worth. Translations in French and German are in progress.

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INTRODUCTORY REMARKS.

IN this book of instruction, I have introduced for practice the easiest braids first--which are chain braids. The first pattern, found on page 9, is a very easy and handsome one, and should be practiced to perfection before trying any other, as it will enable the beginner to execute all others after the first is perfected. A new beginner should be particular to place the strands correctly upon the table, and mark the cover with precision, after the manner shown in the diagram. I have, by the introduction of plates, diagrams and explanatory remarks, made comprehensive and simple the execution of all the braids herein contained. The novice should first give special attention to preparing the hair for braiding, the adjustment of it to the bobbins, weights, molds, &c., of which plates, and full explanations are to be found elsewhere in this book. I wish to impress upon the mind of the worker, that every change made with the strands changes the numbers of them to correspond with the numbers on the table. For example: lift No. 1 over No. 2, which would make No. 1 No. 2, and No. 2 No. 1, &c.

[Ill.u.s.tration: BRAIDING TABLE AND POSITION IN BRAIDING.]

SQUARE CHAIN BRAID.

TAKE sixteen strands, eighty hairs in a strand, and place on table like pattern. Commence at A, take Nos. 1,--one in each hand--lift them over the table, one on each side of the mold, and lay them between Nos. 1 at B, and bring back the Nos. 2 from B, one on each side of the mold, and lay them between Nos. 2 at A; then go to C, lift Nos. 1 over between Nos. 1 at D, pa.s.sing one strand each side of the mold, and bring back Nos. 2 from D, and lay between Nos. 2 at C. Then you are through the braid, ready to commence at A, as at first, and repeat until finished.

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Braid this over a mold, made of small wire, with a hole in one end like the eye of a needle, so as to draw a small cord in the place of the wire. When you have it braided, take off the weights, tie the ends fast on the wire, and push the braid tight together; then boil in water about ten minutes, and take it out and put in an oven as hot as it will bear without burning, until quite dry; then slip it off the wire on to the cord, sew the ends of the braid so it will not slip, and put a little sh.e.l.lac on the end to keep it fast. If you want it elastic, use elastic cord. To vary the size of the braid, vary the number of hairs in a strand.

REVERSE CHAIN BRAID.

TAKE sixteen strands and place on table like pattern. Commence at A with sixty hairs in a strand. Take Nos. 2, lift over table to B, lay them in between Nos. 1 at B, and bring back Nos. 2 from B, and lay in between Nos. 1 at A. Then walk around table to C; take Nos. 1 and lift over table and lay them in between Nos. 1 at D, and bring back Nos. 1 from D to C; then take Nos. 2 at C, lift over table and lay them inside of Nos.

2 at D, and bring back Nos. 2 from D to C. After braiding several times round to suit your taste, say five, reverse the braid by commencing at C, and braiding as you did at A, by taking Nos. 2 at C, lift over table to D, and lay them in between Nos. 1 at D, and bring back Nos. 2 from D, and lay in between Nos. 1 at C. Then go to A and take Nos. 1, lift over table and lay in between Nos. 1 at B, and bring back Nos. 1 from B to A, then take Nos. 2 at A, lift over table and lay in between Nos. 2 at B, and fetch back Nos. 2 from B to A, then commence at C again and braid five times. Then commence at A as you did at first, reversing it every time you braid it five times through. Braid it over a small wire, tie the ends on the wire, boil and dry the same as chain on page nine, only you need not press the braid together on the wire.

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SIXTEEN TWIST CHAIN.

TAKE sixteen strands, with eighty hairs in a strand, and place on table like pattern. Commence at A and B; take No. 1 at A in right hand, and No. 1 at B in left hand, and swing them around the table to the right, changing places with them. Then take Nos. 1 at C and D and change as at A and B. Then go to B and take Nos. 2 at B and A, and change them by taking No. 2 at B in right hand and No. 2 at A in left hand, and swing them around table to the right as before, changing places with them.

Then go around the table to D, and take Nos. 2 at D and C, and change places as before, then take Nos. 3 at A and B and change as before. Then take Nos. 3 at C and D and change places with them. Then take Nos. 4 at B and A and change as before. Then take Nos. 4 at D and C and change as before. Then commence at A, as at first, repeating until the braid is finished.

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STRIPED SNAKE CHAIN BRAID.

TAKE thirty-two strands with twelve hairs in a strand, or any number that can be divided by four, and sixty strands for usual size, and place them on table like pattern. Have every alternate two strands of black hair, and the others of light hair. Commence at A, taking two strands of light hair in left hand, Nos. 1 and 2, and take two strands of black hair in right hand, Nos. 3 and 4, and cross No. 2 (light) over No. 3 (dark), then No. 1 (light) under No. 3 (dark), then No. 4 (dark) over Nos. 1 and 2 (light); so on around the table to the right until you get to A; then commence and work back to the left by taking light hair in left hand and dark hair in right hand, as before, and put No. 3 (dark) over No. 2 (light), and No. 4 (dark) under No. 2 (light), and No. 1 (light) over Nos. 3 and 4 (dark), so on around the table till you get to A; then commence as at first, so on, braiding first one way around the table then the other till you have the chain completed.

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Braid it over wood, or bra.s.s wire, the size and length you wish your chain. When braided take off your weights, tie the ends fast and boil and dry, then take out the mold and put a cord through with some cotton wrapped around it so it will be soft and pliable. This is called the STRIPED SNAKE BRAID, and can be braided all of one color if desired.

CABLE CHAIN BRAID.

TAKE any number of strands that can be divided by two, eighty hairs in a strand, twenty strands for usual size, place on table like pattern.

Commencing, take No. 1 at A in right hand and No. 1 at B in left hand, and swing around the table to the right, and lay the one in right hand at No. 1 at B, and the one in left hand at No. 1 at A; then bring back No. 2 at B with right hand, and No. 2 at A in left hand, to the left, then take No. 3 and swing to the right, then No. 4 and swing to the left, so on, round first to the right then to the left, with every number of strands till you get to No. 1; then commence as at first, and so on till the chain is as long as required.

[Ill.u.s.tration]

Braid this over a small wire, with a hole in one end like the eye of a needle, so as to draw a small cord in the place of the wire. When you have it braided take off your weights, tie the ends fast on the wire, and push the braid together on the wire; boil in water about ten minutes, then take it out and put it in an oven as hot as it will bear without burning, until it is quite dry; then take it out and slip off the wire on to the cord, and sew the ends of the braid so it will not slip on the cord, and put a little sh.e.l.lac on the end to keep it fast.

If you want it elastic, use elastic cord. To vary the size of the braid, vary the number of hairs in a strand.

SNAKE CHAIN BRAID.

TAKE thirty-two strands, or any number that can be divided by four, twelve hairs in a strand, and sixty strands for usual size; place them on table like pattern. Commence at A, lift No. 2 in your right hand, and put your left under your right hand and take up No. 3 and bring it back of No. 1, and lay them both down; then take No. 4 up and lay it between Nos. 1 and 2, then take the next four to the right, and so on till you get around the table; then commence and braid back around the table to the left, but reverse the braid by braiding it this way: lift No. 3 with your left hand, pa.s.s your right under and take No. 2 and bring it back over No. 4, and lay them both down; then take No. 1 and lift it over in between Nos. 3 and 4, and so on, till you get around the table. Then commence as at first, braid one way, then the other, till you have it as long as required. Braid it over wood or bra.s.s wire the size and length you wish your chain; when braided take off your weights, tie the ends fast, and boil and dry them; take out the mold and put a cord through with some cotton wrapped around it so that it will be soft and pliable.

This is called the SNAKE CHAIN BRAID.

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