[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig 160.--Elevation of Inside of End of Lean-to Summer-house.]

The ends of the summer-house (the s.p.a.ce from A to D) are of smaller half-stuff, ranged side by side (as seen at E, E), and nailed to the cross-pieces, F and G, which appear in Fig. 160. In this last-named figure also appears one of the wall-plates, resting on and nailed to the tops of the pillars (H, at Fig. 160), and at I is seen where one of the front wall-plates meets it. There are two of these front wall-plates, each resting on the two pillars to right and left of the entrance, and their inner ends appear in Fig. 158, where the ends of the purlins which form the small gable rest upon them. The wall-plates are of large half-stuff, with the flat side above. In Fig. 160 will be seen how the short cross-piece which carries the sloping end of the roof is supported; and Fig. 161, which is a section through the centre of the building, explains how the ridge-piece of the small gable, E, rests at its inner end on a crosspiece M from rafter to rafter, seen in section only, whilst N shows the point at which the purlins meet and support the ridge-piece towards its outer end. The intersection of the diagonal braces in the gable is indicated at O, and P shows the course of one of the rafters, and how its upper end rests against the wall, and upon a ridge-piece of half-stuff, Q, strongly nailed to the masonry.

The elevation (Fig. 158) explains pretty clearly the ornamental details of the front. They are not elaborate. It will be seen that the top of each pillar has a small cap, formed of four pieces of quartered stuff, mitred at the corners, and that across the opening on each side of the entrance, near the top, is a "transom" of straight wood, with a little arrangement of crooked bangles round it. Over the entrance are diagonal braces crossing, and also a little filling-in with bangles. The entrance is 5 ft. 10 in. high.

In order that an ornamental and appropriate lining may be given to the back of our summer-house, it is recommended to plug the wall, and nail over it a level covering of thin boards--say, 1/2-in. matchboarding.

Upon this the decorative work can be bradded. The back of the seat is shown in Fig. 158 to be of rustic mosaic. Above this, as well as under the seats, a covering of bark has been introduced. British-grown bark, such as elm, can be made to lie flat, but as in any but rural districts this may be difficult to get, virgin cork may be made to take its place.

Fig. 160 gives an inside view of one of the ends, and from this it will be seen that the ornamentation of those parts varies little from that of the back. The lower band, however, answering to the strip under the seats, is not bark, which, in this place, would be liable to be kicked and destroyed by the feet, but of smaller half-stuff, so arranged as to break joint with the outside pieces. This will be seen by referring to the ground plan. Any c.h.i.n.ks in the ends should be neatly tucked with moss, so as to make them wind-proof.

The roof is of wooden shingles--things which any rough hand at carpentry can prepare and put on for himself. As will be seen from Fig. 158, it is easy to give an ornamental character to these. They will have a rustic look, which will go well with other parts of the structure, and, if clumsily made, the effect will be none the worse. For the present purpose, suppose the shingles to be 12 in. by 4 in. The lower ends may be sawn to a variety of ornamental shapes.

If this covering is used, instead of nailing laths across the rafters, it is proposed to cover the whole roof with similar boarding to the back, and upon this it is a simple thing to nail the shingles, placing them just as tiles might be placed. Whilst nailing them on, it will be necessary to have some person within to hold a heavy hammer against the place, otherwise the vibration will jar off the shingles as fast as they are fixed. A 3/4-in. board, rather wider than half the length of the shingles, should first be nailed along the eaves to make up the required thickness.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 161.--Section through Centre of Lean-to Summer-house.]

It will be noticed that the ends of the rafters are made to project so as to give a good breadth of eaves--a desirable feature in so narrow a building, alike for shade, shelter, and the appearance of cosiness. If, however, the roof should be thatched, the projecting rafters will be unnecessary, as the thatch alone will form sufficient eaves.

Down the "valleys" at the juncture of the main roof and the entrance gable a strip of zinc will, of course, be nailed before the shingles are put on, whilst along the ridges a strip of zinc will be nailed upon the shingles; and this latter will need painting to match the colour of the wood.

Various suggestions may be given for finishing the inside of the roof.

Supposing that round or half-round larch stuff has been used for the rafters (the latter is to be preferred for shingles, as giving a level surface to board upon), the s.p.a.ce between the rafters may be covered with bark--virgin cork or otherwise--the c.h.i.n.ks being stuffed with moss.

But if this is done it will be well to fix the bark with screws, as the vibration caused by driving nails would displace or loosen the shingles.

A second plan under the like circ.u.mstances would be before nailing the boards upon the rafters to stretch matting across the latter--either ordinary garden bast matting or, better, the more substantial rush matting, both of which are very inexpensive. These have a pleasant natural colour (the last-named especially, of a greenish hue), and are so unartificial in their structure as to appear in no way out of place among rustic work.

Or it may so happen that suitable larch stuff is not to hand, and that ordinary sawn scantling has to be used for the rafters. If so, the whole roof may be hung with ling; or the rush matting may be stretched across the lower side of the rafters and tacked there, being afterwards more completely secured and finished by nailing a split hazel or other rod down the middle of each rafter. This last plan makes a neat and pleasing roof.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Figs. 162 and 163.--Front and Side Elevations of Shelter for Tennis Lawn.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 164.--Part Roof, Seat, and Floor Plans for Tennis Lawn Shelter.]

It scarcely needs to be said that to make such a summer-house look its best the wall on each side ought to be covered with ivy or other creepers; and it will also be obvious that, if the height of the wall permits the floor of the summer-house to be raised a step or two above the surrounding level, the structure will gain thereby both in effectiveness of appearance and in pleasantness as a place in which to sit.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 165.--Connecting Plates to Corner Post.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 166.--Fixing Sleeper to Posts.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig 167.--Section of Flooring.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 168.--Finial.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 169.--Detail of Garden Shelter at Front Eaves.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig 170.--Section of Seat.]

The rustic summer-house or tennis lawn shelter ill.u.s.trated in front and side elevations by Figs. 162 and 163 is constructed from straight saplings and twigs that have had their bark removed, and have been subjected to a reasonable period of seasoning. A new feature in the design is the accommodation under the seats for the reception of the croquet or tennis gear, and also the extended eaves and floor (see Fig.

164) and the open front, giving at once an uninterrupted view of the game and shelter from the direct rays of the sun.

The shelter is 10 ft. long by 5 ft. 6 in. wide, the height from the floor to the eaves being 6 ft. 3 in., and from the floor to the ridge 9 ft. The four posts are 6 ft. 9 in. long by 6 in. in diameter. The middle and lower end and the back rails are tenoned to the posts, a flat being formed on the post by the mortise and a corresponding shoulder on the rails. The remaining portion is worked to fit roughly the contour of the post.

The plates are 5 in. by 5 in. in section, and are secured to the posts with long galvanised bolts and nuts and a 3-1/2-in. square washer under the heads of the bolts. When halving the front plate, allow it to house into the side plates 1-1/2 in.; by this method it will have a bearing on both posts. In Fig. 165 the left-hand plate represents the front. The front posts are connected at the floor line by a scantling, 4 in. by 3 in., which also forms a sleeper for the floor joists; see Figs. 166 and 167.

The structure rests on a low plinth of bricks, s.p.a.ces being left for the circulation of air under the floor.

The extended floor also rests on bricks placed immediately below the joists; see Fig. 167, which is a section on C D (Fig. 164). The twig plinth nailed around the front will effectually conceal the sleeper and brick foundation.

The rafters are 2-1/2 in. by 3 in., and the ridge and hip rafters 2 in.

by 5 in., the finials (see Fig. 168) being nailed between the angles of the hips. The eaves in front project 2 ft. beyond the posts, and Fig.

169 shows the method by which the additional width is obtained.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 171.--Strapping Cushion to Seat.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 172.--Front Elevation of Octagonal Summer-house.]

The sides are filled with 5/8-in. vee-grooved and tongued boarding, to which is attached the rustic work.

The stained gla.s.s windows are fixed, and on the outer side of the back are diagonal braces made from split saplings, while in the centre a vertical post runs from sill to plate.

The braces and post are shown in the plan (Fig. 164).

The seats are constructed to form lockers (see Fig. 170, which is a section at A B, Fig. 164), their height being 1 ft. 3 in., which, with the addition of a 3-in. cushion, will form comfortable sitting accommodation.

The cushions are retained in place by straps pa.s.sing through slots and fastening over suitable studs on the under side; see Fig. 171. This method provides a means of easily removing and quickly replacing the cushions when required for use. A s.p.a.ce of 3 in., or a distance equal to the thickness of the cushions, must be left at the sloping back, to allow the seat to open properly.

The nature of the locker is partly concealed by the rustic work of split twigs that is nailed to the front.

Next fix the lattice work between the finials and under the front plate.

The short struts on the front posts are more for effect than for any real support.

The roof is boarded on the inside, the work being carried on the rafters as far as the collar ties, and continued flat on these. Moulding is fixed in the angles formed between the rafters and ties, and a cornice is fixed at the plates. The heels of the rafters and plates are also boarded around, as shown in Fig. 169.

The roof may be covered with thatch of wheat, straw, reeds, broom, or heather, and the whole of the woodwork visible should be varnished.

The summer-house ill.u.s.trated by Fig. 172 is suited to a garden of moderate size, one in which s.p.a.ce is not so restricted as to necessitate crowding the building close against a wall. This octagonal summer-house has a continuous seat some 15 ft. long. From side to side each way it measures 10 ft. Fig. 172 is an elevation of the front of the house.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 173.--Ground Plan of Octagonal Summer house.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 174.--Section of Octagonal Summer-house at Y Z (Fig. 173), showing Framework.]

Its framework and the main part of it are of larch poles; other woods are, however, used for minor purposes. The roof is of thatch. In the arrangement of this building there is a certain resemblance to a tent. It has a central pillar, A, not unlike a tent pole, which sustains much of the weight of the roof. Being of first importance, this pillar is somewhat larger than any of the other timbers--say 6 in. in diameter near its bottom, and tapering as little as may be. A rod of iron or wood rises from its top to form the centre of the straw pinnacle seen crowning the roof in Fig. 172. This pillar shows a height of 11 ft. 2 in. above ground, and it should be let 3 ft.

or more into the soil; for it will need to be firmly fixed, or it may be forced out of the perpendicular during the erection of the roof; when the roof timbers are once fixed in place, it will have little further chance of moving. The diagram Fig. 173 is a ground plan, and Fig. 174 is a section showing the timbers from the interior; both are drawn on a scale of 1/4 in. to the foot.

The eight collar-posts (B, Figs. 173 and 174) at the corners of the octagon are of somewhat smaller stuff--say 4 in. They show 6 ft. above ground, and should have 2 ft. below. It will be well to gas-tar all the underground work.

The ground plan of a building in this shape is readily laid out. The s.p.a.ce being levelled, a string is taken which has a loop at each end, and is 5 ft. 2 in. long. With a stake driven through the loop at one end as a centre, and with a stick pa.s.sed through the loop at the other to serve as the travelling leg of the compa.s.ses, a circle is struck 10 ft.

4 in. in diameter, and into this pegs are driven at equal intervals (4 ft. apart) to mark the centres of the eight collar-posts. Whilst digging the holes for the posts, these points are kept by drawing two straight lines on the ground which intersect at the peg.