=Hybrid Chinas=, such as _Charles Lawson_, _Coupe d'Hebe_ and _Madame Plantier_, should be grown as bushy pillars, leaving the shoots six feet long. Shorten the laterals on old wood to three or four eyes. _Blairii No. 2_ should hardly be touched.

=Sweet Briars.=--Cut out all weak wood and cut old and naked shoots down to the ground. The Common Sweet Briar should be grown about four feet high. The Penzance Briars make enormous base shoots, which may be shortened to ten feet or less according to one's requirements, and some of the strong laterals of last year shortened back. _Lord_ and _Lady Penzance_, from their Austrian briar blood, are much less vigorous, and need far less pruning, only cutting out dead wood. When the Penzance and Common Sweet Briars are grown as hedges, the base is apt to get bare, and some of the long shoots must be laid down to keep it clothed, while the rest are pruned much shorter.

=Hybrid Bourbons.=--Prune the laterals lightly, and leave the best of the base shoots.

=Hybrid Noisettes= and =Musks=.--Thin out old wood and tie in young shoots.

=Austrian Briars.=--Only cut out dead wood. _Soleil d'Or_, a hybrid, flowers on the young wood, and the shoots may be pruned back to two feet.

=Scotch Briars.=--No pruning is needed, except cutting out old and dead wood and shortening back some of the numerous suckers.

=Climbing Multifloras= need little pruning. When grown as pillars or on screens they are apt to get bare at the base. Therefore it is well to cut some of the weaker young shoots back to two or three feet to clothe the base, leaving the strong ones their full length. With _Crimson Rambler_ and its cla.s.s, cut out some of the old wood to make room for the young shoots and shorten any weak laterals: but leave most of the strong ones intact, and do not touch the long base shoots of the last year.

=Wichuraianas.=--Only cut out old and dead wood. I have seen a beautiful effect produced with _Dorothy Perkins_ by cutting out _all_ the old wood in the autumn, and training the long young shoots over wire frames two-and-a-half feet wide, forming low arches about a yard from the ground in the centre. The ma.s.s of flower shoots standing erect on these frames makes a most strikingly beautiful object. The Wichuraianas also form very lovely weeping standards on eight-feet stems. And for tall pillars and fountain roses they are unequalled.

=Chinas.=--The old _Blush_ and _Cramoisie Superieure_ should only be thinned. The newer kinds, such as _Mme. Eugene Resal_, _Laurette Messimy_, etc., may be cut back to a few eyes from the ground.

=Bourbons.=--Prune lightly, growing as bold bushes or standards; except _Hermosa_, which may be pruned back to form a dwarf, spreading, two-feet bush; while _Mrs. Bosanquet_ is treated like the Chinas.

=Noisettes= are of two types. The strong growers need hardly any pruning, except _Marechal Niel_, which must have all cankered and weak shoots removed after it has flowered. _Lamarque_, _Fortune's Yellow_ (which must not be pruned at all), and _Jaune Desprez_ need a wall; and _Celine Forestier_ prefers one.

The other type, such as _L'Ideal_ and _William Allen Richardson_, may be pruned fairly close, by cutting back the laterals to a few eyes. All Noisettes bear their flowers on the laterals; therefore these should be preserved as much as possible.

=Dijon Teas.=--These are the climbing and vigorous _Gloire de Dijon_ and its descendants and allies, such as _Belle Lyonnaise_, _Francois Crousse_, _d.u.c.h.esse d'Auerstadt_, _Mme. Berard_, etc. They are all apt to get bare below. Therefore, while some of the strong shoots from the base are left almost their full length, others must be cut back, some to two or three feet, others to four or five feet, in order to keep the whole surface of the wall, arch, or pillar clothed evenly. The laterals may be pruned on the same plan. Old worn out wood should be occasionally cut down to the base to make it start afresh, when the first flowering is over.

=Banksia Roses.=--These need no pruning except in the case of a very old plant, when a shoot that shows weakness may be cut down to the base in April. But I have pointed out in Chapter IV that the Banksias bear their flowers on the sub-laterals of the third year. Therefore, for three years they must not be touched with the knife, and the shoots merely tied in evenly over the surface of the wall.

=Dwarf Polyanthas.=--These only need to have the old flower stems cut out in March.

=Hybrid Perpetuals= and =Hybrid Teas=, dwarf and standard.--If pruned for garden purposes or what I call enjoyment, not for exhibition, all dead wood and weak or unripe shoots must be cut out to the base of the plant. The centre of the plant must be kept clear by removing shoots which cross each other. The strong ripe shoots from the base should be cut back to about twelve inches, and the laterals on the old wood cut back to about four to six eyes. This is merely a general guide to the pruning of these two kinds of roses. But the rosarian, as I have said, will have to study the peculiarities of each individual plant, and to adapt these instructions to its needs, leaving more shoots on the stronger roses, and keeping them longer than on the weak-growing varieties.

=Teas= and =Noisettes=, both dwarf and standard, are pruned on exactly the same lines as the _Hybrid Teas_ and _Hybrid Perpetuals_, but must be pruned in April instead of March.

PROPAGATING ROSES.

The three chief methods of propagating roses are by--

1. Budding on the briar stock.

2. Cuttings.

3. Layering.

=Budding.=--This is the best-known method of propagating. And it is so widely practised by amateurs and gardeners of all degree, that it is better to get an object-lesson in the art than to depend on written instructions. With a little practise any one with neat fingers can bud.

But great care must be taken in the operation, not to bruise the bark of the bud or "shield" that is to be inserted in the stock.

The best stocks, whether for dwarfs or standards, are those of the wild Dog Rose from woods and hedgerows. These should be taken up in October and November, care being taken that each stock has fair roots, that the roots are not torn or bruised, and that they are not dry and shrivelled when planted. In fact, they ought to be treated with just the same care we bestow on our new roses when we plant them out. The stocks may be at once shortened, to about three feet for half-standards, and very strong ones for specimen or weeping roses may be kept six and eight feet long.

But in shortening both, they must always be cut just above a bud. In the following summer these stocks will have thrown out side-shoots; and it is in these that the buds are to be inserted. We can tell when "the bark will run," _i.e._ that it is ready for budding, by trying whether the thorns break off clean when pushed by the thumb. If the thorn bends and does not leave the bark, the wood is not ripe enough. If the thorn sticks tight to the wood, and yet is brittle, the wood is too ripe.

Dwarf stocks are treated much in the same way, but must be planted nearer the surface than standards; for when they are budded the earth must be removed right down to the roots, in order to set the bud as low as possible, as it is inserted in the stem itself, and not in the young wood of the year.

We then choose the "scion"--a twig of the rose we wish to propagate which has already flowered, with plump but not too large buds behind each leaf stalk. Inserting the budding-knife about half an inch above the lowest of these buds or "eyes," we slice down, making a little dip inwards towards the wood as the knife pa.s.ses the bud, to nearly an inch below it, not cutting through the bark, but peeling it off the scion.

The thin slice of wood which adheres to the inside of the strip of bark containing the bud, is now removed by inserting the knife between it and the bark, and jerking it out sharply. Nothing should now be left in the bark save the soft green substance of the "eye." But if this has been dragged out with the wood, the bud is useless, and must be thrown away.

The shield of bark is then trimmed to a point below.

The stock is now made ready to receive the bud. At the point we have chosen for inserting the bud--in standards let it be as close as possible to the main stem--a perpendicular slit from half an inch to an inch long is made with the budding-knife, care being taken only to cut through the bark and not to wound the wood below. A short cross-cut is made at the top of the slit. Then the bark is gently raised on each side downwards from this cross-cut, with the flat handle of the knife.

Into this slit the bud is slipped by putting the pointed lower end into the cross slit, and pushing it down as far as it will go. We then cut off any bark at the top of the bud that overlaps the cross-cut, so that the shield fits in perfectly, when the side flaps of bark are brought gently over it.

With a bit of Raffia gra.s.s, well moistened in water, we now bind up the bud; beginning from below with a double turn over one end of the Raffia, and keeping it quite flat, exactly in the way we put on a surgical bandage. When we come to the bud itself, the Raffia must be wound tightly and as close to the eye as possible without actually touching it. When the whole slit is completely and evenly covered, slip the end of the Raffia through the last turn and pull it tight. The operation is now complete.

CUTTINGS.

Roses on their own roots are grown from cuttings, and it is a system which suits many varieties.

=How to make a cutting.=--Cuttings are taken from well-ripened twigs which have already flowered, or from a lateral upon the main flowering shoot, which has ceased growing without bearing a blossom. They should be from two to six or seven inches in length, with three to nine buds upon them. And judgment is needed regarding these buds in choosing the twig, as we must take one on which they are neither immature nor too fully developed. In the case of a cutting with ten leaves we cut off the top a quarter of an inch above the fourth leaf, and the same distance below the tenth. The four lower leaves are then cut off close to the bud they cover, and the three upper ones are left on. When the cutting is planted, two-thirds of it should be in the soil.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 3.--Rose cutting with a heel, 4 leaves cut, 2 leaves left.]

Cuttings are taken in two ways.

1. With a heel; that is a small portion of the wood of the stem from which the twig grows.

2. Without a heel; being cut through just below a bud.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 4.--Rose cutting without a heel, 4 leaves cut, 2 leaves left.]

=Cuttings under gla.s.s.=--Cuttings of the choice kinds of Teas, Hybrid Teas, Hybrid Perpetuals, and Chinas are raised under gla.s.s, taken from pot plants as soon as they have flowered in the spring. The cuttings are put in pots filled with fibrous loam and silver sand, about six in a five-inch pot. When ready to root at the end of two or three weeks, the pots are placed in a frame on bottom heat to start growth. The same plan is pursued in the autumn, with cuttings taken from plants grown out of doors; but they do not strike as rapidly as those taken from pot plants earlier.

=Cuttings in the open ground.=--This is an interesting and easy way of getting a good stock of many kinds of hardy, strong-growing Perpetuals, Sweet Briars, Ramblers, etc. And it may be successfully carried on from early in August to the middle of October.

Cuttings are inserted three inches apart in rows, leaving some ten inches between each row. They may be either set in a trench, or dibbled into a specially prepared bed. I have tried both plans, and find the following very successful. A bit of ground, partially but not too much shaded, is forked up; a layer of good rotten manure laid on it; upon this three inches of leaf mould; on this again three inches of sharp, sandy road-sc.r.a.pings--silver sand would be as good or better, but here the gravel road-grit is handy. The bed is then stamped down as hard as possible, until it forms a firm solid ma.s.s. The cuttings are then inserted in rows--a hole of the right depth for each being made into the compost with a smooth sharp-pointed stick the size of a lead pencil--a long wooden penholder is a good dibble. Into this hole the cutting is thrust till its base rests firmly on the bottom of the hole, and the soil is pressed tight round the stem with the fingers. When all are in place a thorough soaking of water is given them; and except for firming them in when worms raise the soil about them, they must not be disturbed until the top leaves begin to fall. We shall then see which are likely to strike, and can pull out those whose wood has begun to shrivel, as they are dead.

Many of these cuttings will show flower the next summer. And by November--_i.e._ fifteen months after planting--they can be lifted and planted out in their permanent quarters.

The other plan is to make a little trench eight inches or so deep in good loamy soil, with a layer of silver sand at the bottom. The cuttings are set against the sloped side of the trench, and it is then filled up with soil and stamped in very firmly. I find this answers best for the Penzance Sweet Briars; but personally I prefer the former plan for other roses.

The cuttings must be well watered and carefully weeded from time to time, and in the winter must be given slight protection by fronds of bracken or boughs of evergreens laid lightly over them.

LAYERING.

This is chiefly resorted to when it is wished to increase the stock rapidly of some very choice rose. It can be carried on in summer and early autumn.

The directions given in Mr. Rivers' Rose Amateur's Guide of 1843 are so admirable that I quote them _in extenso_.

"About the middle of July in most seasons the shoots will be found about eighteen inches or two feet in length; from these, two-thirds of the leaves should be cut off, close to the shoot, beginning at the base, with a very sharp knife; the shoot must then be brought to the ground, so as to be able to judge in what place the hole must be made to receive it; it may be made large enough to hold a quarter of a peck of compost; in heavy and retentive soils this should be rotten dung and pit sand in equal quant.i.ties, well mixed; the shoot must then be 'tongued,' _i.e._ the knife introduced just below a bud and brought upwards, so as to cut about half way through; this must be done at the side or back of the shoot (not by any means at the front or in the bend), so that the tongue does not close; to make this certain a small piece of gla.s.s or thin earthenware may be introduced to keep it open. Much nicety is required to have the tongue at the upper part of the shoot, so as not to be in the part which forms the bow, as it is of consequence that it should be within two inches of the surface, so as to feel the effects of atmospheric heat; unless this is attended to the roots will not be emitted quickly; the tongued part must be placed in the centre of the compost, and a moderate-sized stone put on the surface of the ground to keep the layer in its place. The first week in November the layers may be taken from the parent plant, and either potted as required, or planted out where they are to remain. Those shoots not long enough in July and August may be layered in October, when the layers are taken from the shoots, and, if any are forgotten, February and March will be the most favourable month for the operation: as a general rule, July is the proper season."