At ten o'clock, refreshed from a nap in the dormitory, I ambled back to the Meditation Hall. In the throng ahead of me, a couple gestured in sign language, making Eh! Eh! Eh! Eh! sounds with their throats. I wondered how it would feel to be unable to give voice to thoughts. The mute couple turned around to let an elderly man behind them pa.s.s. When I saw their faces, the truth clicked-they were the silently loving couple I'd seen gazing into each other's eyes. It saddened me that they had not voluntarily chosen silence over speech. I felt even sadder that sometimes even seeing and believing could still fail me in trying to find the truth. If I became a nun, would that help me to perceive things better? sounds with their throats. I wondered how it would feel to be unable to give voice to thoughts. The mute couple turned around to let an elderly man behind them pa.s.s. When I saw their faces, the truth clicked-they were the silently loving couple I'd seen gazing into each other's eyes. It saddened me that they had not voluntarily chosen silence over speech. I felt even sadder that sometimes even seeing and believing could still fail me in trying to find the truth. If I became a nun, would that help me to perceive things better?

At the door, a monk handed out books for chanting and programs for the opening ceremony. Inside, trails of heavy incense paled the peoples' black robes while emitting a sweet, drowsy fragrance. Stripes of red embroidered streamers fluttered in the artificial currents generated by slowly revolving fans. Monks, nuns, workers, and volunteers shuffled here and there, arranging the flowers, the fruit, the cushions, the musical instruments.

I settled down on a cushion a few rows from the front. I looked around and saw a woman whose features reminded me of my longtime nun friend Yi Kong. I'd heard her disciples describe her with a Chinese saying, that the fish sink to the bottom of the pond and the geese descend to the sandbank in despair at competing with her beauty.

Yi Kong was that beautiful. Besides, she was a gifted painter, calligrapher, photographer, and connoisseur of art. No one understood why, at the age of eighteen when most girls' deepest concerns are boyfriends and pimples, she had chosen to shave her head to become a nun. Some said she had been jilted by her childhood sweetheart. Some said she had a rare form of cancer and would have lost all her waist-length hair anyway. Some said she rebelled against her wealthy, overpowering father, who had forced her into an arranged marriage with a crude businessman twenty years older than she. Others said she had a gangster boyfriend who had been killed in a street fight, and she'd become the target of the opposing gang. She had no place to hide but within the empty gate.

Although my mother knew about Yi Kong, she had no idea that the nun was my close friend and guide, nor that she had such a mysterious background. Once, when Mother saw Yi Kong on TV talking about the illusory nature of life and the transience of human pa.s.sion, she pointed to the scars scorched into Yi Kong's scalp by incense during her initiation into nunhood and exclaimed, "So pretty, what a waste to enter the empty gate!"

I believed Mother had a split personality, for although she disliked nuns, she was fascinated by Yi Kong. Another time she said, her eyes glued to the nun on the screen, "No Name, deserted by her handsome fiance, was just as pretty." She motioned her head toward Yi Kong. "This one must also have been rejected by someone very handsome."

Mother believed all women's unhappiness was caused by men in one way or another. So she would never have believed the reason I wanted to be a nun had nothing to do with a man, but with a woman. I wanted to be like Yi Kong, to be free of men's crushing power, to attain spirituality, to control my own life and destiny, and most important of all, to push away the ordinary so as to live the life of a poet, a mystic, a G.o.ddess.

Mother believed that when people share the same face, they'll share the same fate. This logic scared me, for I had my mother's face, and I didn't want to let a man into my life just to ruin it. A man who would perhaps, like my father, gamble away everything. Even the jade bracelet treasured by Grandmother and Mother and which would have been pa.s.sed on to me.

Mother had often lamented the loss of the bracelet. "Ah, what a pity! It was made from the finest jade, translucent, spotless, and so green. Your grandmother searched for this piece her whole life. It was not the price she'd paid; many rich people could pay that. It was her eye.

"Your grandmother had a third eye; she could see things most people can't. She knew she'd have no future living in a small town, so she moved from Hualian to the big city of Taipei. Chinese like gold for ornaments and investment, so she opened one gold store after another. People liked to bargain, to pull someone down, so she'd always mark up her prices and give them the pleasure of talking her down. She could see everything; that's why she was so successful. Now I'm sure that, from her grave, she can see you'll fall in love with a nice man, marry, have many children and a good life."

One time I asked her, "Could Grandmother see that Baba would gamble away the jade bracelet?" Mother was speechless. Feeling ashamed of my meanness, I secretly promised myself that I would retrieve the bracelet some day, but I had no idea how. Could Grandmother's ghost foresee this, too?

A nun with a twitch in her eye now stepped forward onto the platform in front of the altar and announced enthusiastically, "I represent the Fragrant Spirit Temple and welcome you to this Seven-Day-Temporary-Leave-Home-Retreat. Before we start our ceremony, let's all stand up and bow to Buddha."

Everyone rose, hands together in the deferential prayer gesture, and bowed to the three figures on the altar: the Historical Buddha; the Medicine Buddha; and Amida Buddha. Next to the three Buddhas stood a small ceramic statue of Guan Yin; her hand held a jar and her eyes looked smilingly at the partic.i.p.ants. I was impressed to see several hundred people stand up in one accord as if they were sharing the same body and mind. I could even feel the qihai, qihai, energy ocean, swell around me. energy ocean, swell around me.

After the audience resumed their seats, the eye-twitching nun gave her welcoming speech: "Honorable guests of faith, today I am pleased to welcome you to our retreat to experience the Buddhist Dharma as short-term monks and nuns. I am also very happy to tell you we have an American doctor with us, which shows that the Buddhist Dharma is not only prosperous in the East, it has also spread to the West. It not only attracts ordinary people, it also appeals to the highly educated."

The nun glanced at her notes, then began again in her self-satisfied voice. "We also have a young Chinese doctor with a Ph.D. in Oriental art history from the Sorbonne in France."

I smiled; that was me. But I really hadn't received my degree yet. I still needed to go back to Paris for my oral defense. Hadn't the nun mentioned the Ph.D. in order to make the temple look good? Jet lag made me too sleepy to quibble.

My head jerked and I awoke to the chiming of bells. Now a different nun on the dais announced lunch. Still feeling drowsy, I mechanically shuffled along with the throng moving toward the dining hall.

Tables and chairs were arranged in rows, with men and women seated on opposite sides of the hall. A dense aroma of vegetables, oil, rice, and condiments hung heavily in the air. After everyone had settled into their seats, a malnourished-looking monk came up to the microphone and quiet fell over the hall. He informed us about the etiquette of eating: we should wait until a Shifu, mentor, struck the bell before we began. We should refrain from making noise and from looking around. We should concentrate on our food, not take more than necessary, and eat all of it. We should clean our bowls and plates as well as we possibly could.

A lot of rules for the first day. Did the monks and nuns ever break any of them?

The monk went on to read the menu: steamed tofu with mushrooms, stir-fried lettuce with cashews and chestnuts, and soup with dried dates, seaweed, and lotus root.

The Chinese call the taste of vegetarian dishes "widow's taste"-like the numb feeling of having lost one's beloved. My tongue felt dulled when I heard the menu, despite Yi Kong's teaching that the killing of any sentient being results in very bad karma. You might end up eating your own mother, chewing on the intestines of your brother, sucking the bones of your grandfather, crunching the feet of your daughter, or swallowing the head of your son. Some close relative in a past life may now be a fish, a cow, a chicken, a sheep, a pig.

The monk struck a small bell and we began to chant the "Five Reflections."

I was surprised to hear this frail-looking monk chant in a plummy, sonorous voice: "I reflect on the work that brings this food before me, let me see from where this food comes.I reflect on my imperfections, on whether I am deserving of this offering of food...."

The group chanted more confidently as they continued: "I take this food as an effective medicine to keep my body in good health.I accept this food so that I will fulfill my task of enlightenment."

The chant ended in a crescendo, with everybody looking spirited; then another monk struck the bell to signal the beginning of lunch.

Although we were not supposed to look around when eating, I still couldn't help but scan the crowd when I lifted up my bowl to eat. Why not-weren't rules made to be broken?

A group of boys looked very cute as they hungrily shoved food into their mouths, forgetting not to smack their lips, nor slurp while drinking their water. The adults ate the ma.s.s-produced vegetarian dishes without enthusiasm-here in the renowned eating paradise of Hong Kong.

While sc.r.a.ping rice into my mouth, I saw the American, Michael Fuller, in the front row opposite me. When would I have the chance to repay him the five hundred Hong Kong dollars? Being the only non-Chinese in the retreat, he had to be the doctor whom the nun had mentioned. To my surprise, he ate with a cheerful countenance and a lively rhythm, as if the bland, greasy dish were gourmet food. He manipulated the chopsticks perfectly. Like a conductor wielding his baton to conjure musical notes, he orchestrated the tofu, mushrooms, seaweed, and cashews smoothly into his mouth. Not only that, he also helped to put food into the bowl of the skinny boy beside him, who struggled nervously with his chopsticks.

Fearing that he might look up and see me studying him, I finally looked away. Yet none of the other men opposite me seemed interesting, so I turned to study the children for a while before looking back at Michael Fuller. He ate his rice j.a.panese style, using the chopsticks to pick up the grains instead of sc.r.a.ping rice into his mouth from the bowl like most Chinese do.

I sighed, impressed by his affection for the flavorless dish, while thinking of how Hong Kong's rich people show off by eating shark's fin soup for breakfast or feeding their children bird's nest soup for supper. Michael Fuller looked up and our eyes met. I immediately looked away.

I turned to watch the stern-faced nuns strolling between the rows to supervise and decided to perform some imaginary improvements to their faces. What if the thin one's eyes were not so pinched-would they look less intimidating? What if the plump one's lips were lifted to a forty-five degree angle instead of drooping like a capsized boat? What if the large mole on the kind-looking one's forehead became her third eye? What if the pretty one relaxed her face muscles just a little bit? She might even show her lovely dimples. What if...

Then suddenly I saw a long, red scar. My heart almost jumped to my throat. The nun was moving behind a heavy man in the third row, and I could only see a third of her face. When I noticed her hands, my heart turned over. Parts of fingers were missing from each hand. Who was she? My heart knocked hard against my ribs as I turned away from the disturbing sight to think.

The bell chimed again, signaling the end of lunch. I looked at my bowl and plate; they were still full. Hastily, I sc.r.a.ped mouthfuls of rice and vegetables into my mouth, then swallowed them with big gulps of water. I choked and coughed. A nun turned to look at me. But her hands had five fingers. My eyes swept across the hall; the scarred nun was gone.

I placed my chopsticks on top of my bowl, and seeing the mess I had left, my heart sank.

My eyes wandered back to Michael Fuller. Ah, he was also looking at me, smiling. Before I decided whether to smile back, a monk struck the bell a second time, signifying that lunch was finished.

I went straight back to the dormitory to rest before the meditation session, still feeling disconcerted about the scarred nun. After a while my thoughts suddenly connected. Could she be Wong Dai Nam, a nun friend in Paris? Not likely, for Dai Nam had left the Sangha, Sangha, the Buddhist order. There had been no word of her since she had disappeared into China three years before. the Buddhist order. There had been no word of her since she had disappeared into China three years before.

5.

Depending on Emptiness.

After the lunch break, I went back to the Meditation Hall for the lecture and meditation sessions. Inside, men, women, and children sat on brown meditation cushions, waiting silently or squirming to find a comfortable position. Partic.i.p.ants continued to stream in; their cloth slippers sc.r.a.ping softly on the clean tiles sounded like leaves rustling in an empty courtyard.

A few minutes later, the nun with the twitching eye stepped forward onto the platform before the altar and tapped lightly on the microphone. Waiting until the vibration subsided, she cleared her throat and announced the venerable nun Yi Kong from the Golden Lotus Temple as the special guest speaker of the retreat.

The audience stirred.

My heart thumped to hear the familiar yet distant name Yi Kong, Depending on Emptiness. She was one of the reasons I came all the way to this temple to join the retreat-after I'd learned that she would be here to lecture on Buddhist Dharma. My head turned with the congregation's to see Yi Kong stride in measured steps to the platform in front of the altar. Her chin was raised, her bald head glistened, her robe trailed behind. She looked like a hairless Guan Yin walking on earth.

Yi Kong was the bald scalp and pretty face I'd glimpsed from the bottom of the well when I was thirteen. At that time she had been a wandering nun who, on her way to visit the Golden Lotus Temple, learned of a girl trapped in a well and went there to throw down Guan Yin's blessing. Yet our friendship didn't develop until two years later, after she had taken residency in the nunnery.

Now Yi Kong still looked handsome as she marched toward the altar. Mother would certainly have been disappointed to see her on TV now, for she had put on some weight, and she didn't look as detached with the extra pounds.

Yi Kong lit incense and led the audience in three deep bows to the three large gilded Buddhas on the altar. Then she seated herself on a cushion and arranged her legs into the full lotus position. With her long, elegant fingers, she drew the gold brocade shawl into a pleasing curve across her tangerine-colored robe and began: "Honorable guests of faith..."

I stared at her intense face and concentrated on the rich inflection of her voice. Yi Kong's eyes glowed in the mellow light of the room. I couldn't see whether the corners of her eyes had grown wrinkled, but her speech was as smooth as before.

"I'm so glad all of you are here today. Simply by being here, you've already extended your first step onto the Buddhist path."

Wherever Yi Kong's gaze fell, there seemed to be a face momentarily enlightened, shining with the truth.

"Don't belittle this first step. The journey of a thousand miles begins on the ground under your feet. But neither should you think you'll be enlightened just by attending a seven-day retreat."

Suddenly Yi Kong seemed to notice me, and our eyes met before she glanced away. My heartbeat accelerated to allegro. Had she really seen me? Did she recognize me among the crowd after all these years? Would she, as before, want me to enter her temple as a nun? Now she asked the audience to meditate for five minutes before her Dharma talk. While everyone's head was lowered and their eyes half closed, I carefully studied my nun mentor's face, feeling my mind start to wander....

During my adolescence and into my twenties, years when I disdained and ignored men, Yi Kong really became my only friend. In the famous novel Dream of the Red Chamber Dream of the Red Chamber, men are compared to mud, but women to water, as they are supple, tender, and nurturing.

When I dreamily turned the pages of the novel, sometimes I'd wonder: Would a man like the hero Jia Baoyu-refined, talented, pure, true, and nice to all the women around him-exist in real life? What about the beautiful nun Miao Yu, Wonderful Jade, who wrote poetry, secretly longed for a man, and gathered snow from plum blossom petals to brew tea for Jia Baoyu instead of fulfilling her pa.s.sion for him? Oh, how I wished I were like those beautiful, brilliant women in this Dream of the Red Chamber Dream of the Red Chamber!

I had always preferred the company of females. Like the best kind of yunwu yunwu-cloud and mist-tea leaves picked before the rainy season, women are shapely, delicate, pleasing to look at, intoxicating to smell, enjoyable to savor. And of course, for me, the only female who embodied all this was Yi Kong.

Although Mother knew nothing about my close friendship with the nun, she sensed the infatuation in me. Once I overheard her asking Father, "Our daughter looks dreamy. Do you think she's in love or something?"

I almost chuckled. How could I tell my parents that I was infatuated with a nun?

Yet the relationship between Yi Kong and myself was not without tension, tension that had nothing to do with us, but with the villagers' convictions. Those who worshipped Yi Kong would say, "Look at Yi Kong; she's so beautiful, wise, compa.s.sionate, and a nun-how can she not be the reincarnation of Guan Yin?" But another group would argue, "Meng Ning came out alive from the haunted well! Who else could survive this except the reincarnation of Guan Yin?" Once two women broke into a loud quarrel right in front of the statue of Guan Yin inside the nunnery. Another time, two elderly men competed to donate offerings to us until Yi Kong insisted we return all the gifts and money.

Mother, of course, took my side. She pinched her eyes into slits, her voice sharp and intense. "It's easy to shave one's head and put on a robe, but how many, like you, could survive that fall with no injury? I'm sure if she were the one who fell, her bald scalp would have cracked open like an egg hit over a wok and her brain would have splashed like vomit all over her robe!"

I felt terribly sad. How unmerciful to fight so mercilessly over the G.o.ddess of Mercy! Didn't the villagers know it was Yi Kong who'd thrown the Guan Yin pendant down to me? But when I told them this, as before, they just thought I was being nice and adored me more. Sometimes I became confused. If I were really the reincarnation of Guan Yin, why couldn't I stop Father from gambling and fighting with Mother? If Yi Kong and I were both the reincarnations of Guan Yin, why didn't that stop the villagers' childish disputes?

I finally left the villagers' squabble behind when I turned nineteen and received a scholarship to go to college. The same year, Father won seventy thousand dollars at the racetrack, enabling our family to move back to the city of Tsim Sha Tsui. Six months later, he lost all that money, so we had to move again-to a slum in Kowloon city. Then the trip to the temple became long and expensive, forcing me to reduce my visits.

A year later, Yi Kong began to take over the supervision of the Golden Lotus Temple after its chief nun, Wisdom Forest, had become ill and pa.s.sed away. Whenever I visited her, Yi Kong would express her wish for me to be a nun in her temple. One time she asked, "Meng Ning, do you know you have a perfectly shaped head? I'm sure if it's shaved, it will be an object of admiration for many monks and nuns."

Another time she said, "Meng Ning, you have the rare quiet nature of a high nun. My Shifu, Wisdom Forest, said that if a person has the karma to possess this quality, she should not waste it in the dusty world."

Later, when Yi Kong knew that although my interest in being a nun was serious but I had not quite made up my mind to shave my head, she'd change to a joking tone and ask, "Meng Ning, when are you coming to play with us? There's lots of fun going on here." Of course I understood that by "coming to play with us," she meant when would I become a nun in her temple, and "fun" meant helping with her many ambitious projects.

Being the only child in the family, it was hard for me to tear myself away from my parents and throw myself inside the temple gate. Chinese deem it extremely unfilial for an only child to become a monk or a nun-unless his or her parents have pa.s.sed away. Otherwise, who would take care of the parents during their old age? Who would carry on the family name? Who would inherit the family's possessions?

6.

The Fire.

Yi Kong's voice, pealing like temple bells, woke me from my wandering thoughts. She had just begun her Dharma talk on self-centered thinking.

"We all like to judge. And no matter whether we feel superior to what we criticize or feel miserable ourselves, we still like to keep the game going. Because in judging-our spouse, our friends, our partners, even strangers on the street-we can make ourselves the center of things." She paused. "With our mind full of judgments, prejudices, and egotism, we'll always think things like Why does my sixty-year-old aunt always dress like a young woman? Why does my friend's father date a young girl half his age? I hate my mother-in-law's cooking; it's horrible. Why does my sixty-year-old aunt always dress like a young woman? Why does my friend's father date a young girl half his age? I hate my mother-in-law's cooking; it's horrible."

Whispers and suppressed laughter scattered among the audience. Yi Kong waited patiently for the noise to subside, then paused to scrutinize the audience in the front rows, then those in the middle, and finally those in back, as if challenging us all to face the truth.

"We also fail to realize that what we need is not this self-centered thinking, but functional thinking-to plan our future, to run our business, to study for examinations, even to prepare a good dinner."

She went on to talk about how meditation could help to rid us of our attachment. "When you meditate, you'll discover self-centered thoughts are like monkeys jumping from tree to tree. Meditation is to help stop this monkey business-"

The audience laughed loudly, cutting off Yi Kong's speech and dispelling the solemn atmosphere. I saw several boys laugh; one arched his back like a cat ready for mischief; an elderly woman giggled, cupping her mouth. I continued to look around and suddenly saw Michael Fuller. He was also looking at me, slightly turning away from a nun who talked intently to him. It was Compa.s.sionate Speech, probably now a.s.signed to translate for him.

Yi Kong broke the spell of our stare by speaking again. "We have to empty our self-centered thoughts and learn to let go! Detach!-"

Right then a loud "Fire! Fire!" broke out like a bad dream in the peaceful hall. People looked around and whispered to one another. When more "Fire! Fire!" was heard and the smell of smoke began to fill the air, people sprang up, then pushed and screamed. As swift as a cat, the eye-twitching nun dashed onto the platform and pulled Yi Kong down, knocking over the G.o.ddess of Mercy statue. Yi Kong wanted to say something, but was already being pushed by her captor toward the exit. But it was too late; now everybody-one body and one mind-dashed toward the gate like lunatics chased by lightning. The eye-twitching nun shielded Yi Kong with her plump torso and shouted, "Give way! Let Venerable Yi Kong pa.s.s!" The same people whose faces lit up and smiled with ecstasy when they caught sight of her now turned a completely deaf ear to the plea.

Everything happened so quickly that it took me seconds to realize I was squeezed among frightened people pushing in an advancing wave. Part of the ceiling was now ablaze. Splinters of crackling wood plunged onto the floor with startling thumps, shooting sparks in all directions. A man's back caught fire; several people slapped him with meditation cushions. He screamed like a pig being slaughtered. Another woman wailed hysterically when a ball of flame landed on her hair.

The panic was contagious. Everybody cried and yelled-for help, for loved ones, from fear, from pain. My heart raced while my lips frantically muttered prayers. Pressed forward by the mob behind me, I looked toward the platform for Yi Kong and the eye-twitching nun, but they were nowhere to be seen. Exclamations of "Help!" and "Fire!" struck my ears above the cacophony of clanking buckets, clattering footsteps, hysterical pushing, and screaming men, women, and children. More smoke seeped out from the platform and the side walls; its acrid stink tore at my nostrils, stinging my eyes to tears.

My gaze darted around. An old woman trying to squeeze out of the entrance was flung aside by a man. A couple held hands and pushed with one heart. The Merit Acc.u.mulating Box fell over; bills and coins spilled across the floor, glittering under the sun angled through the tall windows. Meditation cushions were flattened under the stampede. Slippers and chant books were strewn everywhere on the floor, together with wallets, keys, smashed gla.s.ses, gold chains, prayer beads. People cried, squirmed, thrust, tumbled. The air was dense. More splinters of wood fell. Coughing, I covered my mouth tightly so I wouldn't inhale the smoke, or scream. My heart raced. Mother's image kept spinning in my head while tears burned like lava down my cheeks.

Suddenly, I saw the fire devouring the altar and melting Buddha's face. I screamed and pushed as if chased by the King of h.e.l.l. Would I survive as I did when I had fallen into the well? Or would I die burning in this h.e.l.lfire? Guan Yin, please help me again, I don't want to die! I came here to pursue my spirituality, not my death! Guan Yin, please help me again, I don't want to die! I came here to pursue my spirituality, not my death! I kept praying, when suddenly I realized the G.o.ddess of Mercy-now a heap of shards on the floor-was even more helpless than I. Another realization hit me like lightning-my fifteen years' cultivation of nonattachment and no self were gone in a second! I kept praying, when suddenly I realized the G.o.ddess of Mercy-now a heap of shards on the floor-was even more helpless than I. Another realization hit me like lightning-my fifteen years' cultivation of nonattachment and no self were gone in a second!

Then I noticed a small boy next to me crying his heart out and calling "Mama! Mama!" I picked him up and held him close to me. Right then I felt someone grab my arm. I turned and saw Michael Fuller. He took the child from me and shouted above the din, "Come! Follow me!" Instead of moving with the mob toward the gate, he pushed me away from it. Before I had a chance to protest, he s.n.a.t.c.hed the microphone and used it to smash the window. The boy cried louder. Fresh air rushed in. While I was trying to step out, a flaming beam fell right toward me. Fuller shielded me with his body and pulled me away. The three of us fell hard onto the floor. The boy shrieked. Fuller kicked away the beam, then stood up and gave me his hand. My knee hurt terribly and I was too stunned to respond. He lifted the child through the window and swiftly came back. Then, to my utter shock and surprise, he scooped me up, and before I could protest, he'd already carried me through the broken gla.s.s.

"You OK?" he asked in English after putting me down on the floor, unaware of the emotion simmering inside me. I'd never been touched by a man, let alone cuddled in his arms. I was sure now my cheeks were as hot and red as the fire. The child pulled my robe and I stooped to hold him.

Fuller spoke again, his eyes concerned. "Do you think you can take him to the front yard? I need to go in to help other people out."

"I'm fine," I finally said, my lips trembling. "Go ahead."

He stepped back inside and used the microphone to smash more of the gla.s.s panes while calling to the people, "Come out through the windows!"

Limping, I led the child to the front yard. In the open air, I could see the fire coming from behind the Meditation Hall. The lapping flames, like hungry ghosts, greedily licked the wooden walls and roofs. I wiped away tears and coughed. The boy next to me cried, "Mama! Mama!" I put my arm around him.

Most people were already outside when two screaming fire engines appeared and halted with squealing tires. Firemen radiated down from the trucks, set up their hoses, and started dousing water onto the leaping fire. Then an ambulance arrived and spat out white-clad men and stretchers. Gray-robed monks and nuns were running around trying to help. Children flooded out from the adjacent orphanage to watch, refusing to be pushed back by two young nuns. The kids' jaws dropped and their eyes shone with a hungry l.u.s.ter, as if watching a Hollywood film. Their curious, innocent faces shone red in the glaring fire.

Now, from a safe distance, my fear gone, I, too, watched with horrified fascination. I knew it was wicked to find the fire beautiful amidst this disaster, but I did. Its rapid motion, intense color, and strong smell reminded me of a vigorous Zen painting, where the artist splashed ink across the paper to bleed his soul and free his spirit. I wished I had my painting tools with me, so I could capture this intense moment. The fire both appalled and appealed. It was like Yi Kong-powerful, alive, and full of energy. It leaped and coiled, flapped and seethed like the Queen of Dance. Buddhism says "To die in order to live." Did this fire carry the same mission? To burn away our ego, desire, attachment, and self-centered thinking?

Yes. But there was more to its beauty. It was pa.s.sion, pure yang yang energy. Even its crackling sound seemed voluptuous. Suddenly I noticed the sensuous shape of the energy. Even its crackling sound seemed voluptuous. Suddenly I noticed the sensuous shape of the stupa, stupa, a tower, in the distance and thought of a woman's curves. How on earth could something be so destructive and yet so powerful in its appeal to the senses? The fire awakened something in me that I couldn't yet name. a tower, in the distance and thought of a woman's curves. How on earth could something be so destructive and yet so powerful in its appeal to the senses? The fire awakened something in me that I couldn't yet name.

In the glaring flame, the stifling heat, the flying cinders, and the choking smoke, my heart became aroused by the splendor of destruction and rebirth. Then I saw that the Sutra Storing Pavilion was right next to the Meditation Hall, and my mood sobered, seeing it being destroyed.

In less than an hour, the fire was under control and had become smoldering ashes. People milled about or sat on the front courtyard's pavement smelling of smoke, their hair unkempt, eyes dazed, faces streaked with tears and soot, slacks ripped, black Buddhist robes torn. They looked as if their souls had been s.n.a.t.c.hed away by some dark, evil force. The deportment of some of the women embarra.s.sed me-legs spread apart, mouths agape, robes still pulled high, exposing bare legs and underpants.

Suddenly I remembered the child. How could I have neglected him while he was right next to me, frightened and helpless? I pulled him close and asked very gently, "Little friend, are you all right?"

To my surprise, he responded by thrusting his tiny body into my arms and rubbing his head hard on my chest. "Mama," he whispered.

My heart melted. I savored his smallness and vulnerability for long moments-I'd never known it would feel so good to have a child nestling against me. "Little friend," I cooed, drawing back so I could look him in the face. "I'm not your mama, but don't you worry about her. I'm sure she'll soon find you."