The Fountain of Egeria--The Pontine Marshes--Mola--The Falernian Hills--The Doctor of St. Agatha--The Queen of Naples, 372

LETTER LV.

St. Peter's--The Fountains--The Obelisk--The Forum--Its Memories--The Cenci--Claude's Pictures--Fancies Realized--The Last of the Dorias--A Picture by Leonardo Da Vinci--Palace of the Cesars--An Hour on the Palatine, 379

LETTER LVI.

Roman Eyes versus Feet--Vespers at Santa Trinita--Roman Baths--Baths of t.i.tus--Sh.e.l.ley's Haunt, 390

LETTER LVII.

The Tomb of the Scipios--The Early Christians--The Tomb of Metella--Fountain of Egeria--Changed Aspect of Rome, 396

LETTER LVIII.

Palm Sunday--A Crowd--The Miserere--A Judas--The Washing of Feet--The Dinner, 402

LETTER LIX.

The Protestant Cemetery--Sh.e.l.ley's Grave--Beauty of the Place--Keats--Dr. Bell, 409

LETTER LX.

Audience with the Pope--Humility and Pride in Contrast--The Miserere at St. Peter's--Italian Moonlight--Dancing at the Coliseum, 415

LETTER LXI.

Easter Sunday--The Pope's Blessing--Illumination of St.

Peter's--Florentine Sociability--A Marriage of Convenience, 421

LETTER LXII.

The Correggio--Austrians in Italy--The Cathedral at Milan-- Guercino's Hagar--Milanese Coffee, 427

LETTER LXIII.

Still in Italy--Isola Bella--Ascent of the Simplon--Farewell to Italy--An American--Descent of the Simplon, 433

LETTER LXIV.

The Cretins--The Goitre--First Sight of Lake Leman--Mont Blanc--June in Geneva--The Winkelreid, 440

LETTER LXV.

American and Genevese Steamers--Lilies of the Valley--A Frenchman's Apology--Genevese Women--Voltaire's Room, 446

LETTER LXVI.

The Jura--Arrival at Morez--Lost my Temper--National Characteristics--Politeness versus Comfort, 452

LETTER LXVII.

Lafayette's Funeral--Crossing the Channel--An English Inn-- Mail Coaches and Horses--A Gentleman Driver--A Subject for Madame Trollope, 458

LETTER LXVIII.

First Dinner in London--The King's Birth-day--A Handsome Street--Introduction to Lady Blessington--A Chat about Bulwer--The D'Israeli's--Contrast of Criticism--Countess Guiccioli--Lady Blessington--An Apology, 465

LETTER LXIX.

An Evening at Lady Blessington's--Fonblanc--Tribute to American Authors--A Sketch of Bulwer--Bulwer's Conversation--An Author his own Critic, 476

LETTER LXX.

Ascot Races--Handsome Men--The Princess Victoria--Charles Lamb--Mary Lamb--Lamb's Conversation--The Breakfast at Fault, 483

LETTER LXXI.

A Dinner at Lady Blessington's--D'Israeli, the Younger--The Author of Vathek--Mr. Beckford's Whims--Irish Patriotism--The Effect of Eloquence, 491

LETTER LXXII.

The Opera House--What Books will pay for--English Beauty--A Belle's Criticism on Society--Celebrities, 498

LETTER LXXIII.

Breakfast with Proctor--A Story of Hazlitt--Procter as a Poet--Impressions of the Man, 504

LETTER LXXIV.

Moore's Dread of Criticism--Moore's Love of Rank--A generous Offer n.o.bly Refused--A Sacrifice to Jupiter--The Election of Speaker--Miss Pardoe--Prices of Books, 509

LETTER LXXV.

Dinner at Lady Blessington's--Scott--The Italians--Scott's Mode of Living--O'Connell--Grattan--Moore's Manner of Talking--Lady Blessington's Tact--Moore's Singing--A Curious Incident--The Maid Metamorphosed, 517

PENCILLINGS BY THE WAY.

LETTER I.

AT SEA.--I have emerged from my berth this morning for the first time since we left the Capes. We have been running six or seven days before a strong northwest gale, which, by the scuds in the sky, is not yet blown out, and my head and hand, as you will see by my penmanship, are anything but at rights. If you have ever plunged about in a cold rain-storm at sea for seven successive days, you can imagine how I have amused myself.