CHAPTER IV.

HOW TO COOK VEGETABLES.

[Ill.u.s.tration: PREPARING TO COOK CABBAGE.]

Those who have tried the foregoing recipes are unanimous in their approval, but as regards the cooking of vegetables in paper bags, opinions are divided. Several noted vegetarians are enthusiastic on the subject, and declare that paper-cooking is the very best possible way of conserving the juices and flavour of all vegetables. Others, again, shake doubtful heads, though they admit that some vegetables are improved by this method of cooking, while others are quite decided against it, maintaining that a new and unpleasant flavour is imparted to vegetables so cooked. On investigation, however, it will be found that these last-mentioned critics have not given paper-bag cookery a fair trial. They have probably seized on the homely cabbage as an inexpensive subject on which to experiment, hastily washed it, thrust it into a paper bag, and placed it in the oven for an indefinite period. The result, naturally, is uneatable. Shredded very finely, and put into a well b.u.t.tered bag with a cup of water, a piece of b.u.t.ter the size of a walnut, pepper, and salt, a palatable dish will emerge from the oven. At the same time, cabbage, plainly boiled or cooked in a conservative boilerette, is in many people's estimation a more superior dish.

Potatoes, again, are a cause of division in the camp. They undoubtedly acquire a new flavour when cooked in a paper bag, and this flavour is not agreeable to every palate. Many people prefer new potatoes plainly boiled, for the young, immature vegetable is of so watery a nature that unless the moisture be dispersed by rapid boiling, the potato is too wet and waxy to be palatable. For this reason, new potatoes cooked by steam or in a conservative boilerette are seldom liked, and paper-bagged new potatoes are open to the same objection. It is a different matter, however, with old potatoes, which, when cooked in a paper bag, are very generally liked, and several excellent and proved recipes for cooking old potatoes in paper bags are given further on.

Asparagus is not always a success cooked in a paper bag. Some people complain that the flavour is by no means so delicate when so treated as when simply boiled or cooked by steam or in a conservative boilerette, therefore this vegetable is best put on the black list.

Other vegetables which have been tried and found wanting are celery, turnip-tops, and artichokes. These, however, when once boiled, can be utilised to make many delightful dishes in paper-bag cookery. It may, too, be worth the while of the ardent paper-bag cook to continue to experiment with them until success crowns her efforts. Speaking personally, these vegetables have not met with general approval when cooked in paper bags. But one cannot waste time in lamentations over the few vegetables which are failures cooked in this way, when one considers how many there are which gain so much in flavour as to be a revelation in delicacy and richness of taste to those who have only known them cooked in the ordinary way.

Green peas gain a perfectly exquisite flavour when cooked in a paper bag, but a certain amount of care is required. Too much water will ruin them, and if left too long in the oven they will be hard. One family declared with one voice against paper-bag cookery, because a dish of young, fresh peas emerged from the oven looking like tiny brown bullets, and crackling crisply between the teeth of those who tried to eat them.

But this, of course, was the fault of a careless, incompetent cook, not of paper-bag cookery.

Broad beans are delicious cooked paper-bag fashion; but here, also, care and attention are required, as also with French beans and scarlet runners. Tomatoes cooked in this way are infinitely superior to those cooked in any other way, and there are a great variety of delicious tomato dishes to be cooked in paper bags. Young carrots and turnips gain in flavour so cooked, and cauliflower paper-bagged is unsurpa.s.sed.

Brussels sprouts are not without merit, and mushrooms, onions, cuc.u.mber, and vegetable marrow gain so much in flavour as to almost fulfil the hara.s.sed housewife's aspiration for a new discovery in vegetables.

POTATOES.

Pare and wash the required number of potatoes and place in the greased bag wet from the washing. Put in a hot oven and cook for fifty minutes, reducing the heat after ten minutes.

STEWED POTATOES

are a very savoury dish. Wash and peel as many potatoes as are wanted, cut each into four thick slices, and put in a greased paper bag, with a finely chopped peeled onion, a tablespoonful of minced parsley, a good piece of roast-beef dripping, salt and pepper to taste, and half a cup of water. In forty minutes turn this savoury and delicious potato mixture into a very hot dish and serve at once.

d.u.c.h.eSS POTATOES.

This is an excellent way of using up cold mashed potatoes. Melt a piece of b.u.t.ter or dripping in a little milk, the quant.i.ties being in proportion to the amount of potato; add pepper, salt, a pinch of dry mustard, and beat all very thoroughly up together. b.u.t.ter a bag very thickly, put in the potato, and cook in a hot oven for ten minutes.

SLICED POTATOES.

Slice the potatoes thickly, wash well, and then dry in a cloth. Sprinkle with salt and a little flour. b.u.t.ter a "Papakuk" bag very thickly, and cook for thirty minutes. The bag must be shaken now and then to make the potatoes crisp.

GREEN PEAS.

Sh.e.l.l the peas and to each half peck add a pinch of salt, one lump of sugar, and one leaf of mint; more than one leaf would give too strong a flavour to the peas. Add one gla.s.s of water, and cook for three-quarters of an hour. The gas should be reduced after five minutes. If the heat is too great, the peas will be hard.

BROAD BEANS.

Remove the pods and then sh.e.l.l the beans. This extra trouble is quite worth taking, for it makes all the difference in the delicacy of the flavour, and the skins are very easily removed. Put the beans when skinned into a thickly b.u.t.tered bag, add a piece of b.u.t.ter the size of a walnut, into which has been worked a tablespoonful of flour, a little salt, and a teaspoonful of minced onion. Add also a cupful of water, and cook three-quarters of an hour, reducing the heat after the first five minutes.

d.u.c.h.eSS GREEN PEAS.

Sh.e.l.l the peas and put into a thickly b.u.t.tered bag with a lettuce cleaned and pulled into very small pieces, a few spring onions, a leaf of mint, a pinch of salt, a little castor sugar, a good slice of b.u.t.ter, and a cupful of water. Cook for about three-quarters of an hour, the gas turned down after the first five minutes.

FRENCH BEANS AND SCARLET RUNNERS.

These are excellent cooked in a paper bag. Contrary to the opinion of many cooks, the beans should never be sliced, but cooked whole. If the scarlet runners are very large and coa.r.s.e, they may be cut into two or three pieces, but otherwise, they should merely have the tops and stringy parts removed and be cooked entire. Put them into a well b.u.t.tered bag, with a slice of b.u.t.ter, a tablespoonful of minced parsley, the same of minced onion, if the flavour is liked, the juice of half a lemon and half a teacupful of water. Cook for about thirty minutes.

CARROTS.

Wash and sc.r.a.pe a bunch of young carrots, and put them into a b.u.t.tered bag, with half a teacupful of milk and water. Cook for twenty minutes.

If the carrots are large and no longer young, they should be cut into thick slices.

TURNIPS.

New turnips are delicious when cooked in a well b.u.t.tered paper bag. Wash and peel them, cut into thick slices, put into a greased bag, with half a cupful of milk and water, a pinch of salt, a pinch of castor sugar, and half a teaspoonful of white pepper. Cook for about thirty minutes.

MUSHROOMS.

These are particularly good cooked in a paper bag. They must be freshly gathered, if they are to be really nice. Cut off a portion of the stalk, peel the top, and wipe the mushrooms carefully with a piece of flannel and a little salt. Put them into a b.u.t.tered bag, with a piece of b.u.t.ter on each mushroom. Cook for twenty minutes. This method preserves all the aroma and flavour of the mushroom.

CAULIFLOWER.

There is no more delicious way of cooking a cauliflower than by cooking it in a paper bag. Cut away all the green, carefully cleanse the cauliflower, cutting the stalk crosswise to secure equal cooking.

Lightly b.u.t.ter the cauliflower all over, put very carefully into a bag with half a tumbler of water, and cook thirty minutes.

PARSNIPS.

Wash, pare, and cut into slices as many parsnips as may be required, sprinkle with salt and pepper. Put them into a greased paper bag, with a cup of water and a little thickened milk. Cook for twenty minutes.

ONIONS.

The onion is rich in nitrogenous matter, induces sleep when taken at night, and is excellent as a remedy for colds. It has a soothing action on the nerves, and is beneficial to the kidneys. Take moderate-sized Spanish onions, remove the outer skin; cut off the tops to form lids, and hollow out a little of the onion. Fill this with sausage-meat, cored and skinned sheep's kidney, or a little minced and seasoned meat. Rub over with dripping, put into a well greased bag, and cook for an hour.

ONIONS AND TOMATOES.

These two vegetables go particularly well together. One excellent method of cooking them is to take as many tomatoes as there are onions, slice off the tops, scoop out some of the pulp, and carefully fix them in the hollow of onions, which have been steamed till tender and a hollow scooped in each. Put a piece of b.u.t.ter in the tomato centres, drop an egg into each, sprinkle with salt and pepper, add a tiny bit more b.u.t.ter, replace the top of the tomato, cover with the piece of onion previously cut off, put into a well greased bag, and cook for fifteen minutes.

TOMATO STEW.