If the surface is to be dried, as in electrolysis calibrations, it must be rinsed quickly with boiling water and pressed between sheets of filter paper. Another method which has been recommended is to rinse the copper in--water slightly acidulated with sulphuric acid (which prevents oxidation), then in distilled water, and to dry by blotting paper and in front of a fire, taking care not to make the plate too hot. The wash water is sufficiently acidulated by the addition of two or three drops of acid per litre. So far as I know, the method of washing in acidulated water was first proposed by Mr. T.

Gray.

-- 138. Coppering Aluminium.

A good adherent deposit of copper on aluminium used to be considered a desideratum in the days when it afforded the only means of soldering the latter. Many receipts have been published from time to time, and I have tried, I think, most of them. On no occasion, however, till this year (1896), have I succeeded in obtaining a deposit which would not strip after it was tinned and soldered, though it is not difficult to get apparently adherent deposits so long as they are not operated upon by the soldering iron. The best of the many solutions which have been proposed in years gone by is very dilute cupric nitrate with about 5 per cent of free nitric acid.

The problem of electroplating aluminium which I have indicated as awaiting a solution has at last found one. In the Archives des Sciences physiques et naturelles de Geneve for December 1895 (vol.

x.x.xiv. p. 563) there is a paper by M. Margot on the subject, which discloses a perfectly successful method of plating aluminium with copper. The paper itself deals in an interesting way with the theory of the matter--however, the result is as follows.

(1) The aluminium articles are boiled for a few minutes in a strong solution of ordinary washing soda. The aluminium surface is thus corroded somewhat, and rendered favourable to the deposit of an adherent film of copper. After removal from the soda solution the aluminium is well washed and brushed in running water.

(2) The articles are dipped for thirty seconds or so in a hot 5 per cent solution of pure hydrochloric acid.

(3) After dipping in the hydrochloric acid, the work is instantly plunged into clean water for about one second, so as to remove nearly, but not quite, all of the aluminium chloride.

(4) The work is transferred to a cold dilute (say 5 per cent) solution of cupric sulphate slightly acidulated with sulphuric acid. The degree of acidulation does not appear to be very important, but about one-tenth per cent of strong acid does well.

If the preliminary processes have been properly carried out the aluminium will become coated with copper, and the process is accompanied by the disengagement of gas. It appears to be a rule that if gas is not given off, the film of copper deposited is non-adherent.

The work must be left in the copper sulphate solution till it has received a uniform coating of copper.

(5) When this is the case the work is removed--well washed so as to get rid of the rest of the aluminium chloride, and then electroplated by the battery in the ordinary copper sulphate bath.

If the operation (4) does not appear to give a uniform coat, or if gas is not evolved from every part of the aluminium surface, I find that operations (2) and (3) may be repeated without danger, provided that the dip in the hydrochloric acid is shortened to two or three seconds.

The copper layer obtained by Margot's method is perfectly adherent--even when used as a base for ordinary solder--though in this case it can be stripped if sufficient force is applied.

Since the solder recommended by M. Margot for aluminium contains zinc, it does not run well when used to unite aluminium to copper, bra.s.s, iron, etc. In this case, therefore, I have found the most advantageous method of soldering to be by way of a preliminary copper-plating.

The success of M. Margot's method depends in my experience on obtaining just the proper amount of aluminium chloride in contact with the aluminium when the latter is immersed in the copper sulphate solution.

-- 139. The process of copper-plating from sulphate or nitrate may, according to Mr. Swan (Journal of the Royal Inst.i.tution, 1892, p.

630), be considerably accelerated by the addition of a trace of gelatine to the solution. As success appears to depend upon hitting the exact percentage amount of the gelatine, which must in any case be but a fraction of one per cent, and as Mr. Swan refrains from stating what the amount is, I am unable to give more precise instructions. A few experiments made on the subject failed, doubtless through the gelatine content not having been rightly adjusted. Mr. Swan claims to be able to get a hard deposit of copper with a current density of 1000 amperes per square foot, but seems to recommend about one-tenth of that amount for general use.

The solution employed is a mixture of nitrate of copper and ammonium chloride--proportions not stated. Electrolytic copper, as generally prepared, is very pure, but this is a mere accident depending on the impurities which, as a rule, have to be got rid of. Electrolysis seems to have no effect in purifying from a.r.s.enic, for instance.

Roughly speaking, about 11 grms. of copper are deposited per ampere hour from cupric salt solutions. When the current density is too high the anode suffers by oxidation, and this introduces a large and very variable resistance into the circuit.

-- 140. Alkaline Coppering Solution

Coppering Base Metals. It is often desirable to coat lead, zinc, pewter, iron, etc, with a firm and uniform layer of copper preparatory to gilding or silvering. If copper or bra.s.s articles are soldered with soft solder it is found that the solder does not become silvered or gilt along with the rest of the material, but remains uncoated and of an ugly dark colour. This defect is got over by giving a preliminary coating of copper.

This is done in an alkaline solution, generally containing cyanogen and ammonia. The following method has succeeded remarkably well with me. The receipt was taken originally from Gore's Electro-metallurgy, p. 208. A solution is made of 50 grms. of pota.s.sium cyanide (ordinary commercial, say, 75 per cent) and 30 grms. of sodium bisulphite in I.5 litres of water. Thirty-five grammes of cupric acetate are dissolved in a litre of water, and 20 cubic centimetres of the strongest liquid ammonia are added. The precipitate formed must be more or less dissolved to a strong blue solution. The cyanide and bisulphite solution is then added with warming till the blue colour is destroyed. This usually requires the exact amount of cyanide and bisulphite mentioned, but I have not found it essential to entirely destroy the colour.

The solution contains cuprocyanide of sodium and ammonium (?), which is not very soluble, and this salt tends to be deposited in granular crystalline ma.s.ses on standing. However, at a temperature of 50 C.

the above receipt gives an excellent coppering liquid, which will coat zinc with a fine reguline deposit. Bra.s.s or copper partly smeared with solder will receive a deposit of copper on the latter as well as on the former, and, moreover, a deposit which appears to be perfectly uniform.

In using the bath the anode tends, as a rule, to become incrusted, and this rapidly increases the resistance of the cell, so that the current falls off quickly. The articles should be scratch-brushed and plated for about two minutes with a current density of about ten amperes per square foot.

As soon as the deposit begins to look red the articles are to be removed and rebrushed, after which the process may be continued.

About five minutes' plating will give a copper deposit quite thick enough after scratch-brushing to allow of a very even gilding or silvering.

Aluminium appears to be fairly coated, but, as usual, the copper strips after soldering. Iron receives an excellent and adherent coat.

I do not think that the formation of a crust upon the anode can be entirely prevented. According to Gore, its formation is due to the solution being too poor in copper, but I have added a solution of the acetate of copper and ammonium till the colour was bright blue without in any way reducing the incrustation. If the solutions become violently blue it is perhaps as well to add a little more cyanide and bisulphite, but I have not found such an addition necessary. The process is one of the easiest and most satisfactory in electro-metallurgy.

-- 141. Nickel-plating.

An examination of several American samples of nickel-plated goods has disclosed that the coating of nickel is, as a rule, exceedingly thin.

This is what one would expect from laboratory repet.i.tion of the processes employed.

Commercial practice in the matter of the composition of nickelling solutions appears to vary a good deal. Thin coatings of nickel may be readily given in a solution of the double sulphate of nickel and ammonia, which does rather better if slightly alkaline. Deposits from this solution, however, become gray if of any thickness, and, moreover, are-apt to flake off the work. The following solution has given very good results with me. It is mentioned, together with others, in the Electrical Review, 7th June 1895.

The ingredients are:-

Nickel sulphate 5 parts

Ammonia sufficient to neutralise the nickel salt.

Ammonium tartrate 3.75 parts

Tannin 0.025 parts

Water 100 parts

The nickel sulphate and ammonia are dissolved in half the water, the ammonium tartrate in the other half with the tannin. The solutions are mixed and filtered at about 40 C. This solution works well at ordinary temperatures, or slightly warm, with a current density of ten amperes per square foot. In an experiment made for the purpose I found that plating may go on for an hour in this solution before the deposit begins to show signs of flaking off. The deposit is of a fine white colour.

The resistance of the bath is rather high and rather variable, consequently it is as well to have a current indicator in circuit, and it may well happen that five or six volts will be found requisite to get the current up to the value stated. For nickelling small objects of bra.s.s, such as binding screws, etc, it is very necessary to be careful as to the state of polish and uniformity of their surfaces before placing them in the plating bath. A polished surface will appear when coated as a polished surface, and a mat surface as a mat surface; moreover, any local irregularity, such as a speck of a foreign metal, will give rise to an ugly spot in the nickelling bath.

For this reason it is often advisable to commence with a coat of copper laid on in an alkaline solution and scratch-brushed to absolute uniformity.

An examination of the work will, however, disclose whether such a course is desirable or not; it is not done in American practice, at all events for small bra.s.s objects. These are cleaned in alkali and in boiling cyanide, which does not render a polished surface mat, as weak acid is apt to do, and are then coated with a current density of about ten amperes per square foot.

In spite of what is to be found in books as to the ease with which nickel deposits may be polished, I find that the mat surface obtained by plating on an imperfectly polished cathode of iron is by no means easily polished either by fine emery, tripoli, or rouge.

Consequently, as in the case of bra.s.s, if a polished surface is desired, it must be first prepared on the unplated cathode. In this case, even if the deposit appears dull, but not gray, it may be easily polished by tripoli and water, using a cork as the polisher.

Scratch-brushing with bra.s.s wire, however, though possibly not with German silver wire, brightens the deposit, but discolours it. When the deposit becomes gray I have not succeeded in polishing it satisfactorily.

Soldered bra.s.s or iron may be satisfactorily coated with nickel by giving it a preliminary coating of copper in the cyanide bath. On the whole, I recommend in general that iron be first coated with copper in the alkaline bath, scratch-brushed, and then nickel-plated, and this whether the iron appears to be uniform or not. Much smoother, thicker, and stronger coats of nickel are obtained upon the copper-plated surface than on the iron one, and the coating does not become discoloured (? by iron rust) in the same way that a coating on bare iron does. The copper surface may be plated for at least an hour at a density of ten amperes per square foot without scaling.

Scales or circles divided on bra.s.s may be greatly improved in durability by nickel--plating. For this purpose the bra.s.s must be highly polished and divided before it is nickelled.

The plating should be continued for a few minutes only, when a very bright but thin coat of nickel will be deposited; it then only remains to wash and dry the work, and this must be done at once. If the nickel is deposited before the scale or circle is engraved, very fine and legible divisions are obtained, but there is a risk that flakes of nickel may become detached here and there in the process of engraving.

142. Miscellaneous Notes on Electroplating.

Occasionally it is desirable to make a metallic mould or other object of complex shape. The quickest way to do this is to carve the object out of hard paraffin, and then copy it by electrotyping. Electrotype moulds can be made in many ways. The easiest way perhaps is to take a casting in plaster of Paris, or by means of pressure in warm gutta-percha.

In cases where the mould will not draw, recourse must be had to the devices of iron-founders, i.e. the plaster cast must be made in suitable pieces, and these afterwards fitted together. This process can occasionally be replaced by another in which the moulding material is a mixture of treacle and glue. The glue is soaked in cold water till it is completely soft. The superfluous water thrown away, one-fourth part by volume of thick treacle is added, and the mixture is melted on the water bath; during which process stirring has to be resorted to, to produce a uniform mixture.

This liquid forms the moulding mixture, and it is allowed to flow round the object to be copied, contained in a suitable box, whose sides have been slightly oiled. The object to be copied should also be oiled. After some hours, when the glue mixture has set, it will be found to be highly elastic, so that it may be pulled away from the mould, and afterwards resume very nearly its original form.