In steering through the strait, particularly during the flood-tide, this shoal should be avoided by keeping well over to the east sh.o.r.e; for the tide there sets across the strait; it is about a mile and a half from Round Head, in which s.p.a.ce the water is ten and fourteen fathoms deep.

Between Round Head (in lat.i.tude 20 degrees 28 minutes 30 seconds) and Cape Conway is a bay, where there appeared to be good anchorage out of the strength of the tides; and to the north of Round Head is another bay, the bottom of which is an isthmus of about a mile wide, separating it from an inlet to the westward of Cape Conway. This bay very probably affords good anchorage out of the strength of the tides.

CAPE CONWAY, in lat.i.tude 20 degrees 32 minutes, and longitude 148 degrees 54 minutes, is the western limit of the south entrance of Whitsunday Pa.s.sage; it is a steep point, sloping off to the eastward: immediately on its north side is a small shingly beach, a few yards behind which there is a hollow, containing a large quant.i.ty of fresh water. At a short quarter of a mile from the point is a rocky shoal of small size, between which and the sh.o.r.e there is deep water.

PINE HEAD, in lat.i.tude 20 degrees 23 minutes, and longitude 148 degrees 51 minutes 40 seconds, is the south-east extremity of a small island that is separated from the main by a pa.s.sage of about a mile wide, but we did not ascertain whether it is navigable. The head is a high, bluff point, clothed with pine-trees: near it the tide runs in strong eddies, and for that reason it ought not to be approached nearer than half a mile; it appeared to be bold to. There is a sandy bay on its south west side affording a good landing-place; the island is clothed with gra.s.s, and thickly wooded: we found no water. The variation was 5 degrees 35 minutes East.

PORT MOLLE, so named by Lieutenant Jeffreys, appeared to trend in for four or five miles: and, probably, to afford a convenient port, as it is well sheltered from the wind, and is protected from the north-east by a group of small islands, thickly wooded. Hence the land trends to the north-west towards Cape Gloucester; the sh.o.r.e was very indistinctly seen, but seemed to be very much indented, and to possess several bays, if not rivers; for the land at the back is very high, and must give rise to several mountain, if not navigable, streams.

MOUNT DRYANDER, whose summit is in lat.i.tude 20 degrees 14 minutes 10 seconds, and longitude 148 degrees 30 minutes 55 seconds, forms a small peak, and is visible from Repulse Bay, as well as from the northern extremity of the c.u.mberland Islands: it is four thousand five hundred and sixty-six feet high; and the hills around it are at least from seven hundred to a thousand feet in height.

The greater part of the water that collects from these hills probably empties itself into Repulse and Edgec.u.mbe Bays, or it may be distributed in lagoons upon the low land that separates them.

At the back of Point Slade there is a high mountainous range extending without interruption to the westward of Mount Upstart. In lat.i.tude 21 degrees 1 1/2 minutes, and longitude 148 degrees 36 3/4 minutes is a high-rounded summit, which is visible at the distance of twenty leagues: between this range, which is at the distance of from five to seven leagues from the sea, and the coast, are several ridges gradually lowering in alt.i.tude as they approach the sh.o.r.e. In the neighbourhood of Repulse Bay, this mountainous range recedes, and has a considerable track of low land at its base, which is possibly a rich country: from the height of the hills, it must be well watered.

CAPE GLOUCESTER. The point of land that Captain Cook took originally for the cape, is an island of about five miles long and two broad, separated from the true Cape Gloucester by a strait, a mile and a half wide. The island is called Gloucester Island; its summit at the north end is in lat.i.tude 19 degrees 57 minutes 24 seconds, longitude 148 degrees 23 minutes 38 seconds: it is eighteen hundred and seventy-four feet high, and its summit is a ridge of peaks: its sh.o.r.es are rocky and steep; and, although the sides of the hills are wooded, yet it has a sombre and heavy appearance, and, at least, does not look fertile. The cape, in lat.i.tude 20 degrees 1 minute 50 seconds, and longitude 148 degrees 26 minutes 15 seconds, is the extremity of the mountainous range that extends off Mount Dryander. The variation observed off the island was 7 degrees 11 minutes East.

EDGEc.u.mBE BAY is a deep indentation of the land, the sh.o.r.es of which are very low: its extent was not ascertained, but, by the bearings of some land at the bottom, it is seventeen miles deep; and its greatest breadth, at the mouth, is about fourteen miles. It affords excellent shelter; and between Middle Island (a small rocky islet of a mile and half in extent) and Gloucester Island there is good anchorage in seven fathoms muddy bottom, with protection from all winds. We did not examine the bay farther than pa.s.sing round Middle Island in six, seven, and eight fathoms, mud. The western side is formed by low islands, that appeared to be swampy, but our distance was too great to form the most distant opinion of them: if the main is not swampy, it must be a rich and interesting country.

HOLBORNE ISLAND is a rocky island, visible about seven or eight leagues, and has three small islets near it: it is in lat.i.tude 19 degrees 41 minutes 5 seconds, and longitude 148 degrees 17 minutes 30 seconds.

CAPE UPSTART is the extremity of Mount Upstart, which is so high as to be visible for more than twenty leagues in clear weather: it rises abruptly from a low projection, and forms a long ridge of mountainous land; the north-east end of the summit is in lat.i.tude 19 degrees 41 minutes 50 seconds, and longitude 147 degrees 44 minutes 30 seconds. This point separates two deep bays, both of which were of very inviting appearance, on account of the high and broken character of the gullies on either side of Mount Abbott, and it was almost evident that they both terminate in a river. The hills of Mount Upstart are of primitive form, and were judged to be composed of granite. The variation observed off the point was 6 degrees 16 minutes East.

CAPE BOWLING-GREEN is very low, and projects for a considerable distance into the sea: its north-east extremity is in lat.i.tude 19 degrees 19 minutes 10 seconds, and longitude 147 degrees 23 minutes East; the mountainous ranges are at least thirty miles in the rear, and, were it not for Mounts Upstart and Eliot, both of which are very visible, and serve as an excellent guide, this part of the coast would be very dangerous to approach, particularly in the night, when these marks cannot be seen, when great attention must be paid to the lead. A ship pa.s.sing this projection should not come into shoaler water than eleven fathoms; and, in directing a course from abreast of Mount Upstart, should be steered sufficiently to the northward to provide against the current which sets into the bay on the western side of the mount. On approaching the cape, if the soundings indicate a less depth than eleven fathoms, the vessel should be hauled more off, because she is then either a parallel with or to the southward of the cape.

CAPE CLEVELAND (lat.i.tude 19 degrees 10 minutes 10 seconds, longitude 146 degrees 57 minutes 56 seconds) like Mount Upstart, rises abruptly from a projection of low land, separating Cleveland Bay from a deep sinuosity that extends under the base of Mount Eliot, a high range with a rounded hill and a peak, the latter being at the south extremity of its summit.

Mount Eliot may probably be seen at the distance of twenty-five leagues, if not farther; between it and the hills of Cape Cleveland the land is low, and is probably much intersected by water.

A reef extends from the extremity of Cape Cleveland for four miles to the eastward, but not at all to the northward, so that, with the point bearing to the southward of West 1/2 South a ship is safe: there is a breaker near the extremity of the reef, at about three miles from the point; to avoid which, keep the south end of Magnetical Island well open of the north extremity of the cape.

The peaked summit of MOUNT ELIOT is in lat.i.tude 19 degrees 33 minutes 10 seconds, and longitude 146 degrees 54 minutes 25 seconds.

CLEVELAND BAY affords good anchorage in all parts, in four, five, and six fathoms; a considerable flat extends for a mile from the sh.o.r.e on the western side of the cape, and is left dry at half ebb; it fronts a sandy beach that commences at a mile and a half to the south of the cape, and extends to the southward for nearly two miles; over this beach, two or three streams of fresh water communicate with the sea; they take their rise from the hills, and probably are seldom dry.

The most convenient watering-place is near the centre of the beach, a little to the northward of the highest hills. Wood for fuel is plentiful, and grows close to the beach, and may be embarked with facility; the best place is at the north end of the sandy beach, since the boat can be brought nearer to the sh.o.r.e to protect the wooding party.

HALIFAX BAY extends from Cape Cleveland to Point Hillock; it has several islands in it, and is fronted by the PALM ISLANDS, the summit of which is in lat.i.tude 18 degrees 43 minutes 5 seconds, longitude 146 degrees 35 minutes 15 seconds: this group consists of nineteen islands, one only of which is of large size, being eight miles long and three wide; it probably affords all the conveniences of a sheltered anchorage, and a good supply of wood and water.

In lat.i.tude 18 degrees 49 minutes, nine miles from the sh.o.r.e, and six miles within the island Number 2, is a coral reef, that shows at low water: it appeared to be about two miles long; between it and Number 2 is a wide channel with nine fathoms. The Lady Elliot, merchant ship, in 1815, struck upon a reef in 18 degrees 45 minutes, about four miles from the sh.o.r.e; of which we saw nothing; we anch.o.r.ed within four miles of its position, but, at daylight, when we got underweigh, it might have been covered by the tide.

In 18 degrees 32 minutes and 146 degrees 41 minutes is a reef, on which the San Antonio, merchant brig, struck: its position was not correctly ascertained, as the accident happened in the night.

POINT HILLOCK is in lat.i.tude 18 degrees 25 minutes, and longitude 146 degrees 20 minutes; it is a low point projecting to the eastward, under Mount Hinchinbrook.

CAPE SANDWICH is the north-east extremity of the sandy land that stretches to the northward from the base of Mount Hinchinbrook, which is so high as to be visible for eighteen leagues: the mount is topped with a craggy summit, seven miles in length from north to south.

There is a reef that extends for nearly a mile and a half off the cape, having a rocky islet at its extremity. The cape is in lat.i.tude 18 degrees 13 minutes 20 seconds, and longitude 146 degrees 16 minutes 40 seconds.

The peak at the north end of Mount Hinchinbrook is in lat.i.tude 18 degrees 21 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 146 degrees 15.

BROOKE'S ISLANDS lie four miles north from Cape Sandwich; they consist of three rocky islets, besides some of smaller size; the whole are surrounded by a coral reef.

From Cape Sandwich the land extends, low and sandy, in a North-West direction for five miles to a point, which is terminated by a hill.

Between this and Goold Island there appears to be a navigable strait leading into Rockingham Bay.

GOOLD ISLAND, the summit of which, formed by a conical hill covered with wood, in lat.i.tude 18 degrees 9 minutes 35 seconds, and longitude 146 degrees 9 minutes, is about two miles long: the south-west point of the island is a long strip of low land, with a sandy beach; at the eastern end of which there is a run of water; and fuel may be cut close to the sh.o.r.e. High water takes place at full and change at three quarters past ten.

ROCKINGHAM BAY appears to be a s.p.a.cious harbour. At the bottom there was an appearance of an opening that may probably communicate with an inlet on the south side of Point Hillock, and insulate the land of Mount Hinchinbrook. There is good anchorage in the bay in four and five fathoms mud, near Goold Island.

The natives are very friendly here, and will come off and visit the ship.

FAMILY ISLES consist of seven small rocky islets, covered with a stunted vegetation.

DUNK ISLAND is remarkable for having two peaks on its summit; the south-east summit is in lat.i.tude 17 degrees 58 minutes, and longitude 146 degrees 8 minutes 45 seconds. The variation observed in the offing to the North-East was 5 degrees 41 minutes East.

BARNARD ISLES form a group of small rocky islands extending in a straggling direction for six miles to the south of Double Point. Three miles to the south of the southernmost island, but nearer to the sh.o.r.e, is a reef of rocks which dry at low water.

From DOUBLE POINT (lat.i.tude of its summit 17 degrees 39 minutes 50 seconds) to CAPE GRAFTON, the coast is formed by a succession of sandy bays and projecting rocky points. In lat.i.tude 17 degrees 31 minutes, in the centre of a sandy bay, is a small opening like a rivulet; and, on the south side of Point Cooper is another; but neither appeared to be navigable for boats. Abreast of Frankland's Islands, and near the south end of a sandy bay of six miles in extent, there is another opening like a river, that, from the appearance of the land behind, which is low and of a verdant character, may be of considerable size. The high mountains to the southward, b.e.l.l.e.n.den Ker's Range, must give rise to a considerable stream; and it appears very probable that this may be one of the outlets, but the most considerable is, perhaps, that which falls into Trinity Bay round Cape Grafton.

FRANKLAND'S ISLANDS consist of several low islets one of which is detached and of higher character than the others, which are very low, and connected by a reef. The largest island may be seen five or six leagues off; it is in lat.i.tude 17 degrees 7 minutes 45 seconds.

The land between this and Cape Grafton is high, and towards the north has several remarkable peaks. The land of Cape Grafton may be readily known, when seen from the southward, by appearing like three lofty islands; the outermost is Fitzroy Island, but the others are hills upon the main. The easternmost of the latter, Cape Grafton, is conspicuous for having two small peaks, like notches, on the west extremity of its summit; it is joined to the westernmost by low land, which also separates the latter from the other hills behind it; and, as this low land is not seen at a distance, the hills a.s.sume the appearance of islands.

There is good anchorage in the strait between Cape Grafton and Fitzroy Island, but, with a northerly wind, the better anchorage would be on the south side of the cape. The former is exposed to all winds between North-West and North-East. In the former case the anchor may be dropped in nine fathoms, at a quarter to half a mile from the beach of the island. The north extremity of Cape Grafton is in lat.i.tude 16 degrees 51 minutes 20 seconds, longitude 145 degrees 53 minutes 5 seconds; the south-east extreme is in lat.i.tude 16 degrees 54 minutes 20 seconds, longitude 145 degrees 55 minutes 15 seconds.

FITZROY ISLAND affords both wood and water; it has a peaked summit. It affords anchorage in the bay on its western side, off a coral beach; the south-west end of which is in lat.i.tude 16 degrees 55 minutes 21 seconds, and longitude 145 degrees 56 minutes 21 seconds. Nine miles to the eastward of Fitzroy Island is a small bare sandy island; and, at about seven miles North-East by East from it, there was an appearance of extensive shoals. Variation 5 degrees 10 minutes East.

On the west side of CAPE GRAFTON is a bay, in the centre of which is an island. The bottom is very shoal, but good anchorage may be had with the cape bearing South-East Between CAPE GRAFTON and SNAPPER ISLAND, the centre of which is in lat.i.tude 16 degrees 17 minutes 35 seconds, and longitude 145 degrees 27 minutes 40 seconds, is TRINITY BAY; the sh.o.r.es of which were not very distinctly seen. At the south side, and about seven miles within the cape there is an opening that appeared to be extensive, and the mouth of a considerable stream, trending in between high ranges of land, in a direction towards b.e.l.l.e.n.den Ker's Range.

In lat.i.tude 16 degrees 23 1/2 minutes, and longitude 145 degrees 34 minutes is a group consisting of three coral islands; which, being very low, are dangerous to pa.s.s in the night.

The offing is said to be strewed with extensive reefs; we saw none beyond Green Island: those that are laid down on the chart are from Lieutenant Jeffrey's account.*

(*Footnote. Much shoal water was seen to the northward of Green Island from the Tamar's masthead. Roe ma.n.u.script.)

SNAPPER ISLAND lies off the point which forms the northern limit of Trinity Bay; it is small, and does not supply any water.*

(*Footnote. Ten or eleven miles South 80 degrees East from Snapper Island is the north-west end of a shoal, extending to the South 41 degrees East for sixteen or seventeen miles; the Tamar anch.o.r.ed under it. Roe ma.n.u.script.)

The land behind CAPE TRIBULATION may be seen at a greater distance than twenty leagues. It is here that the outer part of the barrier reefs approach the coast, and there is reason to believe that, in lat.i.tude 16 degrees 17 minutes 35 seconds, longitude 145 degrees 27 minutes 40 seconds, they are not more than twenty miles from it. The cape has a hillock at its extremity, and a small rocky islet close to the sh.o.r.e that renders it conspicuous: it is fourteen miles beyond Snapper Island. The sh.o.r.e appears to be bold to: at three miles off we had sixteen fathoms.

Ten miles further to the northward is BLOMFIELD'S RIVULET in Weary Bay: it is blocked up by a rocky bar, having only four feet water over it; the anchorage off it is too much exposed to be safe. The river runs up for four or five miles, having soundings within it from three to four fathoms, its entrance is in 15 degrees 55 minutes 50 seconds.

The coast then extends to the north to Endeavour River, and forms a few inconsiderable sinuosities; it is backed by high land, particularly abreast of the Hope Islands. These islands open of each other in a North 39 degrees East direction, and appear to be connected by a shoal; it is however very likely that a narrow pa.s.sage may exist between them, but certainly not safe to sail through.

Here the number of the coral reefs begin to increase, and great attention must be paid in navigating amongst them; but, with a careful look out from the masthead, and a quick leadsman in the chains, no danger need be apprehended.

Between reef a and the shoal off the south-west Hope Island there is a pa.s.sage two miles wide, with twelve fathoms: a is about half a mile in diameter, with a few rocks above water; its centre is in 15 degrees 43 minutes 20 seconds, two miles from the sh.o.r.e, and three miles North 55 degrees West from the south west Hope.

b is about a mile and a quarter long, and has a dry rock at its north end, the lat.i.tude of which is 15 degrees 39 minutes 20 seconds: it is divided from Endeavour Reef by a channel of nearly a mile wide, and fifteen fathoms deep: abreast of the south end of b, on the western edge of Endeavour Reef, there is a dry rock, in lat.i.tude 15 degrees 39 minutes 55 seconds.