Part 50
6
14
8.10 (A. M.) to 6.15 (P. M.). Snow hard. Ice
flat. Few hummocks. Less wavy. Snow (shoes).
Sun faces.
7
14
11 to 10. Beautiful clear weather; even the
night sky clear. Midnight sun first seen.
Ice 36 ft. (thick). (Another measurement gave
21 feet.)
8
9
Observation before starting, 86.36, 94.2. In
spite of what seemed like long marches we made
only 106 miles in 9 days. Much distance lost in
crossings. (From field paper) bar. 29.50,
rising; temp. -37; wind mag. N. E., 2; clouds
St. 3; shadow (6 ft. pole), 32 feet.
9
14
9 A. M. to 5.30 P. M.; snow hard; ice about the
same; wind cutting; frost bites. Clothes humid.
10
16
10 P. M. to 7 A. M. Working hours changed; big
marches and long hours no longer possible; snow
good; ice steadily improving; bodily fatigue
much felt; wind 1-28 W.
11
15
10.30 to 8 A. M. Observation end of March,
87.20, 95.19; the pack disturbance of B. Ld.
lost; farthest north; little crushed ice;
old floes less irregular; anxious about food;
wind 3 W. (true); 300 miles in 24 days; work
intermittent; too tired to read instruments.
(From other field notes, Temp. -39;
bar. 29.90.)
12
21
11 P. M. to 7 A. M. Thoughts of return. Food
supply reduced. Hope to economize in warmer
weather. Very heavy ice. Much like land ice.
Wind 2 W. S. W. The awful monotony!
13
17
12 P. M. to 7 A. M. The same heavy glacier-like
ice.... The occasional soup. Hummocks 15-20 ft.
Ahwelah in tears at start. W. black. Sun under
rushing vapors. Ice changes. Leads.
14
23
11 P. M. to 7.10 A. M. 88.21, 95.52. Wind light
but penetrating. Off the big field, ice smaller.
Some open leads. Little sign of pressure. Snow
soft, but less precipitation. Dogs get up
better speed. 100 miles from Pole. (From other
observation papers: Bar. 29.90, falling;
temp., -44; shadow (6 ft. pole) 30 feet.)
15
14
10 P. M. to 7 A. M. Ice same. Wind -1, S. W.
Working to the limit of muscle capacity. So
tired and weary of the never ceasing tread!
16
15
10.30 to 8 A. M. Ice pa.s.sed. Several heavy old
floes. Made 6 crossings. Wind 1-3, W. S. W.
17
13
10.15 to 8 A. M. Ice same. Creva.s.ses new.
7 crossings. Saw several big hummocks. Ice
less troublesome. Temp., -40; bar., 30.00.
Sled friction less.
18
14
9 P. M. to 6. Ice, though broken, smooth. The
horizon line not so irregular as that of more
S. ice. Sky and ice of a dark purple blue.
(Bar. 30.02.)
19
16
11 P. M. to 8 A. M. (Position) 89.31. D. R.
94.03. Camp on an old field--the only one on
the horizon with big hummocks. Ice in very large
fields; surface less irregular, but in other
respects not different from farther S. Eskimos
told that in two average marches Pole would be
reached. Extra rations served. Camp in tent.
(Bar., 29.98; Temp., -46.)
20
15
8 P. M. to 4 A. M. An exciting run; ice aglow in
purple and gold; Eskimos chanting. Wind, S. 1
89; 46.45. (D. R.) 94.52. New enthusiasm; good
march. Temp., -36; bar. (not legible on notes);
course set for 97th.
21
13
1 A. M. to 9 A. M. Observations noon: 89; 59.45;
ped. 14. Camp; sleep in tent short time; after
observations advance; pitch tent; (also) made
camp--snow--prepared for two rounds of
observations. Temp., 37.7; bar., 29.83. Nothing
wonderful; no Pole; a sea of unknown depth; ice
more active; new cracks; open leads; but surface
like farther south. Overjoyed but find no words
to express pleasure. So tired and weary! How we
need a rest! 12, night. Sun seems as high as at
noon, but in reality is a little higher, owing
to its spiral ascent. The mental elation--the
drying of furs, and (making) photos--Eskimos'
ideas and disappointment of no Pole--thoughts
of home and its cheer. But oh, such monotony of
sky, wind and ice! The dangers of getting back.
(From other observation papers: Temp, ranged
from -36 by mercury thermometer to -39 by
spirit thermometer; clouds Alt. St., 1; wind
mag. S., 1; ice blink E.; water sky, W.; shadow
(of 6 ft. pole) 28 feet.)
22
0
Moved camp 4 m. magnetic S. Made 4 observations
for alt.i.tude; S. at noon, W. at 6, N. at 12M, E.
at 6 A. M. Ice same; more open water; wind 2-3;
temp., -41; (from field paper) W. S. W., 1 to
2. There are only two big hummocks in sight.
(Made a series of observations for the sun's
alt.i.tude, 2 on the 21st at the first camp, 4 on
the 22nd at W. M. camp, and another midnight
22-23. Before we left deposited tube.)
23
20
Start for home. 12.30 to noon. Fairly clear--ice
smooth, but many new creva.s.ses. Temp., -41.
Course for 100 mer.
24
16
11 P. M. to 9 A. M. These records, being made at
the end of the day's journey, give the doings of
the day previous--this note for the 24th is in
reality written on the morning of the 25th, when
comfortable in camp. Wind 1-2 W. Temp., -36.
Ice smooth--fields larger; 5 crossings; the
pleasure of facing home.
25
15
8-8. Temp., -37; Wind 1-2 W. S. W.; ice same.
The worry of ice breaking up for me, signs of
joy for the Eskimo.
26
14
9 to 7. Still much worried about return;
possibility of ice disruption and open water
near land; wind light; ice shows new cracks,
but few have opened; seems to be little
pressure; few hummocks; snow hard and
traveling all that could be desired.
27
14
9.30 to 8. Ice same; wind S. E. 1; good going;
crossings not troublesome; dogs in good spirits;
Eskimos happy; but all very tired. Temp., -40.
28
14
9.15 to 7.45. Ice same; wind 1 W.; snow
moderately hard; few hummocks and no pressure
lines.
29
13
Midnight to 8.45 A. M. Ice more active; fresh
cracks; some open cracks but no leads. Wind 1 S.
30
15
Midnight to 8 A. M. Ped. registered 121 m. from
Pole; camp by D. R., 87.59-100; observations
88.01, 97.42. Course half point more W.
Temp., -34. Start more westerly.
May
1
18
12.30 to 9 A. M. Much color to the sunbursts, 1908.
but the air humid; the temperature persistently
near -40, but considerable range with the
direction of the light winds and mists when
they come over leads. Much very heavy smooth
ice--undulating, not hummocky like S.
2
12
2 A. M. to 11 A. M. Fog, clouds and wet air.
Temp., -15. Hard to strike a course.
3
13
1 A. M. to 10 A. M. Thick weather; wind E. 2;
ice friction less; occasional light snow fall.
4
14
3 to 11 A. M. Air clear but sky obscured; ice
very good, but hummocks appearing on the
horizon.
5
11
11 P. M. to 6 A. M. Strong wind; occasional
breathing spell behind hummocks; squally with
drifts.
6
0
In camp. Stopped by signs of storm; tried to
build igloo but wind prevented; in a collapsed
tent for 24 hours; eat only half ration of
pemmican.
7
10
8 A. M. to 3 P. M. Wind detestable; ice bad;
life a torture; sky persistently obscured; no
observations; pedometer out of order, only time
to gauge our distance.
8
12
2 A. M. to 10. Weather bad; windy, S. W.; some
drift; heavy going.
9
13
1 to 8 A. M. (Weather) thick; wind easier; ice
in big fields; snow a little harder, snowshoes
steady.
10
13
11 P. M. of the 9th to 6 A. M. Heavy going but
little friction on sled; some drift; see more
hummocks.
11
0
May 11. In camp. Strong wind; heavy drift;
encircle tent with snow blocks.
12
11
12.30 to 8.30 A. M. Wind still strong; cestrugi
troublesome, but temperature moderate; sled
loads getting light.
13
12
11 P. M. of 12th, to 7.30 A. M. of 13th. Wind
easier, S. S. W.; snow harder; ice very thick
and very large fields; fog.
14
9
3 A. M. to 9 A. M. No sky; strong wind compelled
to camp early.
15
13
1 A. M. to 10. Fog; ice much creva.s.sed; pa.s.sed
over several cracks--some opening.
16
14
May 16. 11 P. M. of the 15th to 6 A. M. Cl. 10;
wind again troublesome; light diffused, making
it difficult to find footing.
17
11
2 A. M. to 10. Thick; ice more and more broken;
smaller and more cracked--cracks give much
trouble.
18
11
1 A. M. to 9.30. Wind more southerly and strong;
ice separating; some open water in leads.
19
12
11 P. M. to 7.30. Wind veering east; fog
thicker; ice very much broken, but snow surface
good.
20
6
Midnight to 9 A. M. Open water; active pack;
almost impossible.
21
8
11 P. M. to 9. Conditions the same; our return
seems almost hopeless; no observations--cannot
even guess at the drift.
22
0
In camp. Gale N. E.; temp, high; air wet;
ice breaking and grinding; worried about the
ultimate return; food low.
23
5
3 A. M. to 7 A. M. Still squally, but forced a
short march.
24
12
12 noon to 8 A. M. Short clearing at noon; the
first clear mid-day sky for a long time; west
still in haze. Water sky W. and S. W.; no land
in sight--though the boys saw the land later
when I was asleep; ice much broken.
84 02'-97 03'.
25
14
10 P. M. to 6 A. M. Ice better; no wind; thick
fog; snow hard. Temp., -10.
26
12
11 P. M. to 7.45 A. M. Ice in fields of about
1 M. somewhat hummocky; crossings hard; no wind.
27
11
11.30 P. M. to 9.30 A. M. Ice same; thick fog.
28
13
12 m. night to 10 A. M. Ice still same; fog;
wind 3, shifting E. S. E. and S. W.
29
11
11.30 P. M. to 9.30 A. M. As we came here the
water sky in the southwest to which we had
aimed, gradually working west, led to a wide
open lead, extending from north to south, and
almost before knowing it, in the general plan
of the ice arrangement, we found ourselves to
the east of this lead. Temp. rose to zero. Ice
much broken; air thick; light vague; impossible
to see irregularities. Food 3/4 rations; and
straight course for Nansen Sound.
30
10
12 to 11 A. M. Ice in heaps; open water; brash
the worst trouble; little fog.
31
11
11.15 P. M. to 9 A. M. Ice little better; snow
hard; sleds go easy; much helping required
(over pressure lines).
June
1
12
10.45 to 8. Ice in large fields; many hummocks; 1908.
few heavy fields.
2
12
10 P. M. to 9 A. M. Ice steadily improving.
3
11
10 P. M. to 8 A. M. Ice begins to show action of
sun. Temperature occasionally above freezing.
4
10
9.30 P. M. to 7.30 A. M. Fog; ice offering much
trouble, but friction little and load light.
5
11
9.45 P. M. to 7 A. M. Hummocks exposed to sun
have icicles.
6
0
In camp. Strong N. W. gale.
7
0
In camp. Gale continues, with much snow; the ice
about breaks up; anxious about map. (Not knowing
either drift or position, were puzzled as to
proper course to set.)
8
14
1 A. M. to noon. Ice bad, but snow hard, and
after rest progress good; wind still blowing
west.
9
10
11 P. M. to 9 A. M. With thick ice and this kind
of traveling it is hard to guess at distances.
10
0
10.30 P. M. to 8. Bad ice; open leads; still no
sun.
11
14
10 P. M. to 8 A. M. Large smooth ice; little
snow; wind S. W., 1; no fog, but sky still of
lead.
12
15
10.30 to 5. Small fields but good going;
sky black to the east.
13
14
10 to 8 A. M. Fog cleared first time since last
observation. Land in sight south and east.
Heiberg and Ringnes Land; water sky; small ice;
brash and drift eastward. We have been carried
adrift far to the south and west, and
examination of ice eastward proves that all
is small ice and open water. Heiberg Island
is impossible to us. What is our fate? Food and
fuel is about exhausted, though we still have
10 bony dogs. Upon these and our little pemmican
we can possibly survive for 20 days. In the
meantime we must go somewhere. To the south
is our only hope.
NOTE.--_June 14_ and thereafter to _September 1_, all notes were briefly jotted down in another diary, a collection of loose leaves in which the observations of the return were made. This diary was left with the instruments at Etah with Mr. Whitney. The data, however, had been rewritten at Cape Sparbo, so that the notes had served their purpose and were of no further value when no pretentious publication was antic.i.p.ated.
Other notes were made on loose sheets of paper or on leaves of the note books. Many of these were destroyed, others were rubbed out to make room for recording what was regarded as more important data, and a few were retained quite by accident.
QUESTIONS THAT ENTER CALCULATIONS FOR POSITION OF THE NORTH POLE.
By FREDERICK A. COOK.
Much abstruse, semi-scientific and academic material has been forced into the polar discussions about proofs by observation. The problem presented is full of interesting points, and to elucidate these I will ask the reader to go back with me to that elusive imaginary spot, the North Pole. Here we find no pole--and absolutely nothing to mark the spot for hundreds of miles. We are in the center of a great moving sea of ice and for 500 miles in every direction it is the same hopeless desert of floating, shifting crystal. I believed then that we had reached the Pole, and it never occurred to me that there would be a cry for absolute proof. Such a demand had never been presented before. The usual data of the personal narrative of the explorers had always been received with good faith. But let us reopen the question and examine the whole problem.
