7 _mo_. 21.--Rose this morning much cast down in mind at the thought of our long journey, and a want of a knowledge of the Russian language.

Poured my complaint in fervency of soul before the Lord, and was a little comforted in believing that he would still care for us and preserve us in this strange and long wilderness travel. It is his own cause in which I am engaged, and I am willing to endure any bodily fatigue if I may only be strengthened to do the works to which my blessed Master has called me. The Divine Finger seems pointing to the place where the people I am seeking are to be found.

I went after breakfast to the dear Pastor Dietrich. His heart was filled with love for me, and I felt the sweetness of his spirit to encourage me; preciously was the divine unction spread over us. He gave me some information of the religious state of things here. There seems to be about 800 of the evangelical party in Moscow, including the French and English Protestants, and the different cla.s.ses of Lutherans; a small number out of 350,000 souls which the city contains; the rest are Roman Catholics and of the Greek church, mostly the latter. G.o.d knows the hearts of all.

22_nd_ [?]. "In thee, O Lord, do I put my trust; let me never be ashamed: deliver me in thy righteousness. Bow down thine ear to me; deliver me speedily: be thou my strong rock, for a house of defence to save me."--(Ps. x.x.xi. 1, 2.) "Hear the right, O Lord, attend unto my cry; give ear unto my prayer, that goeth not out of feigned lips."--(Ps.

xvii. 1.) The above sweet words were brought home to my heart with power this morning after a time of conflict in spirit. Lord, grant me faith and patience to the end of the race, when I shall have to say, Now, Lord, lettest thou thy servant depart in peace. Amen.

Providing themselves with food, and with small change of money for the journey--two things indispensable to Russian travel--John Yeardley and William Rasche left Moscow on the 23rd, by _malle-poste_ for Orel.

They stopped some hours at Toula: the land south of this town they found to be well-cultivated, and the harvest had begun; it consisted mostly of rye. The journey to Orel occupied forty-four hours. Among their fellow-travellers was a resident of Moscow, Charles Uyttenhoven, who spoke English, German, French and Russ, and who, like themselves, was going to Kharkov. He was a pleasant and gentlemanly companion, and was of great service to them in acting as spokesman on the road.

From Orel there was no _malle-poste_ in which they could continue their journey, and they were obliged to hire a _tarantas_, or posting-carriage, a very inferior kind of conveyance. In consequence, besides, of the fair at Pultowa, every vehicle of this description had been taken up except one, which was of course the worst in the town. When they had loaded their luggage and spread hay to lie upon, they started; but before they were out of sight of the stable the crazy vehicle broke down, and they were detained till nearly eleven o'clock at night, whilst it was being repaired. In this new kind of conveyance they experienced great discomfort: they could neither sit nor lie with ease, as the s.p.a.ce was much too small for three pa.s.sengers. The country they pa.s.sed, through was very rich; it may be called the granary of Russia; they found the harvest more advanced the farther they penetrated into the south.

At Koursk they hired a fresh _tarantas_. The roads were inferior to those along which they had travelled, but the country was more picturesque, still fertile, and producing much wheat; the weather was very hot, as it had been all the way from Petersburg. On the 27th, at midnight, they reached Kharkov.

We have travelled, says John Yeardley, four days and nights in succession from Moscow to this place. The conveyances of the country are exceedingly bad; they almost shook our bones asunder.

The next day they visited Pastor Landesen, to whom they had a letter of introduction from Pastor Dietrich. They spent the day with the family of this intelligent and pious man. Tea was spread in the garden, to which meal a number of Christian friends were invited.

The pastor's wife, says John Yeardley, is a sweet-spirited woman. After much social converse our garden-visit closed with a religious occasion, in which I expressed a few words of exhortation. I think we were sensible of the nearness of the presence of our Divine Master, which proved a brook by the dreary way. We met at the pastor's Louse Superintendent Huber, a worthy and experienced Christian, kind and fatherly to us.

The next day William Rasche went with Pastor Landesen to hire a carriage.

No such thing, however, was to be had, and they would have been happy if they could have engaged as good a vehicle as their old crazy _tarantas_; for the only alternative was a _bauer-wagen_ (peasant's cart), if we except the very expensive extra-post carriage, with which they would have been obliged to take a conductor. It happened that a young man, an apothecary's a.s.sistant, wanted to go to Iekaterinoslav; his ancestors were German, and he could speak both that language and Russ. By Landesen's recommendation they took him as their companion, and he was very useful to them on the road. The _bauer-wagen_ was much more uncomfortable than the _tarantas_ had been; travelling in it was like gallopping over a bad road in an English farmer's waggon; and, as the vehicle had no cover, the travellers were exposed without protection to the full power of the sun. The floor of the waggon was spread with mattresses, and, thus furnished, it served them for parlor, kitchen, and lodging-room.

They travelled in this way through the night, but the next day were obliged to wait at a small dirty station for horses till the afternoon; and in the evening John Yeardley became so ill, from hard travelling and exposure to the heat, that they were compelled to alight at another little station near Novomoskovsk, and make the best of the poor accommodation they could procure. The next morning, somewhat refreshed by rest, they went forwards to Iekaterinoslav, where they happily met with a clean inn, the Hotel Suisse, kept by a German.

The same day they went in a boat up the river Samava, to Rybalsk, seven miles, to see a German schoolmaster named Schreitel, to whom they had a letter of introduction. This is a colony of twenty-five families, founded in 1788: the schoolmaster, who was also the minister, received them in a brotherly manner. It was here that their mission properly commenced. From this place a succession of German colonies extend in a south-easterly direction to the Sea of Azov. The villages are all built on the same pattern, being formed of one straight street of neat houses on both sides, adorned with trees in front and gardens behind. The German colonists consist princ.i.p.ally of Mennonites and Lutherans. The former are the most numerous and thriving; they were invited to settle there by Catherine the Great, in order to improve the state of agriculture; but their example has not had the desired influence on the surrounding districts. Although his German neighbor is in an infinitely better condition than himself, the Russian peasant will not imitate the husbandry which is practised so successfully before his eyes.

At Rybalsk, John Yeardley had a Scripture reading and a religious opportunity with a few serious persons who came to the house; and the next evening he held a meeting for worship with the colonists.

On the 3rd, they left for Neuhoffnung. They travelled in a covered carriage, which, though without springs, was a great improvement on their last vehicle. They came the first day as for as Konski, where they pa.s.sed the night, sleeping in the carriage, the air being very mild the night through. In the afternoon they arrived at another Mennonite colony, Schonweise, where they had a short interview with Pastor Obermanz and a few of his flock. These people produce a small quant.i.ty of silk. The travellers were now on the Steppes; they found them very thinly peopled, so that all the country out of sight of the villages appeared like a vast desert. On the 4th they pa.s.sed through three colonies--Grunthal, Priship, and Peters.h.a.gen. The settlers here are from all parts of Germany, mostly from Prussia and Wurtemberg. Next came Halbstadt, the seat of the Bishop, and Alexanderwohl, where the Friends pa.s.sed the night. They were surrounded by a large number of settlements on all sides.

These were the places where, according to his previous impressions and apprehension of duty, John Yeardley was to have entered on that work of gospel-labor to which he had so long looked forward. But, instead of finding, as on former occasions of a similar kind, his heart enlarged and his mouth opened to preach the word, he seems now to have felt himself straitened in spirit, and to have been obliged to pa.s.s in silence from colony to colony, a wonder perhaps to others, a cause of humiliation to himself. Never before, in all his many journeyings, had such a trial befallen him; and it may be supposed that, coming so soon after the copious and unrestrained exercise of his gift which he had experienced in Norway, it would press upon him with peculiar force. The people to whom he was now come, seem, it is true, to have been in a different state from the simple-hearted Norwegians, who thirsted for the "pure milk of the word;"

and their comparative indifference to spiritual things may have been a main cause of the silence which he felt to be imposed upon him. With the reserve natural to him, he has left but little clue to the motives and feelings under which he acted. Great must have been the relief when, as happened on several occasions, his bonds were loosened, and the command was renewed to speak in the name of his only-loved and gracious Lord.

On the 5th they pa.s.sed through several colonies to Gnadenfeld, where, says J.Y.:--

We halted to breakfast with one of the colonists, and found him a sweet-spirited man, and his family pious. His name is David Voote. He appreciated the object of our mission, and spoke of the awakening that had taken place of late; telling us that devotional meetings had been established, but that some of their preachers did not approve of them. We sent for one of the ministers, with whom I was pleased; he invited us to hold a meeting with them on a future occasion if we could make it accord with our journey, which I hope will be accomplished.

We obtained some information respecting the Molokans, and were directed to Nicolai Schmidt in Steinbach, who often has communication with them. We found him a delightful man, quite of the right sort to be useful to us. As the Molokans speak nothing but Russ, we shall be in want of an interpreter in our visit to them. I told him he must go with us; and he immediately said. I will go with pleasure; whenever you return here and incline to go, I will be at home and will accompany you. This seemed an opening of Providence, and removes one great difficulty in the way of a visit to this people, for whom I have felt more than towards any others in South Russia.

N. Schmidt is a wealthy farmer, and sets himself at liberty to promote the extension of the Saviour's kingdom; I felt at once at home with him as a friend and brother.

From Steinbach, which lay a few versts out of the direct road, they proceeded to Stuttgardt, and the next day, the 6th, to Neuhoffnung, where they were accommodated at a farmer's, and had the comfort of a good clean apartment and kind attention to their wants. This is the princ.i.p.al seat of the German Lutheran colonists.

On Seventh-day, says John Yeardley, we attended the school-children's meeting, about 200 present. After Pastor Wust had questioned on or explained the Scriptures, I had an opportunity to address them. On First-day afternoon we held an appointed meeting [with Wust's congregation], which was not large, on account of many [with the Pastor himself] having to attend an interment in the neighborhood. After the meeting we received a salutation from some of the young sisterhood, who came to us and surprised us with their sweet melodious voices, singing in concert a hymn well suited to our present situation. After they had ended I went out and had a long conversation with them.

In all my journeyings, he touchingly continues, I was never so much cast down as in this scene of labor; I never before so much missed the help and consolation of my precious one as I now do; but, blessed be a gracious G.o.d, she is safe with Him, and free from a toil which she could never have endured. I marvel, and praise his great name for upholding me thus far; I am astonished at the way in which I am enabled to bear the hardships of this journey, and am preserved in health. It is the doing of my gracious Saviour, and I thank him out of a grateful heart. Should I never be permitted to return to my earthly home, I have a joyful hope he will take me to a glorious rest with himself and with those I have so tenderly loved on earth.

On the 8th, William Rasche went to Berdjansk, on the Sea of Azov, to change some English money, and to inquire if there were any religious people there. He met with some interesting persons, who seemed at first to be prejudiced against the Friends but after some conversation became very loving, and desired he would bring J.Y. to see them the next day.

Accordingly, on the 9th, J.Y. and W.R. went to Berdjansk, accompanied by Pastor Wust and several others. The meeting which they went to attend was held in a private house. It commenced in the usual manner, with singing; after which, ---- Buller read a chapter, and the pastor commented upon it; and then they asked J.Y. what he had to say regarding it. He answered by giving his view of the subject, and afterwards addressed them in the ministry. Various individuals then related their experience, one after the other, as is usual in the more private religious meetings in these churches.

---- Buller (writes J.Y. in recording this meeting) is an interesting man; I had much conversation with him as to his own conversion. It seems to have been a work of the Spirit, without, in the first instance, any other instrumentality than reading the Bible. I met several pious persons in the meeting-room, and held converse with them to mutual comfort. They are simple and sincere. We took tea in the garden after the meeting, and did not reach our lodging in Neuhoffnung until 12 o'clock the same night.

10_th_.--This morning they started for Elizabethsdorf, accompanied by Robert Lehmkuhle, a teacher from Kharkov. Their way lay entirely through the boundless steppes, where so many ways ran into each other that the driver missed the road, and they wandered about until 10 p. M., when they took shelter at a German colonist's. The inmates, who had gone to rest, rose to give them milk and bread.

The next day they proceeded to Elizabethsdorf, being escorted on the way by hospitable members of the settlements through which they pa.s.sed. At Elizabethsdorf they were received by schoolmaster Seib, a brotherly Christian man, whose conversation was "seasoned with grace."

After tea, says John Yeardley. we held a devotional meeting, in which I had an opportunity to address the little company; but the people generally in the colonies are busy till late in the evening. Being much weary with our jolting journey, I retired to the waggon for the night, as I supposed; but W.R. soon came to inform me that a number of young persons, men and women, were come, it being as early as they could be liberated from their day's labor, to have some of our company. I sprang from the waggon with joy, and we had a delightful meeting, with a pretty large company. They sang repeatedly, and betweentimes I related to them something of my travels in Germany and Greece, with which they appeared wonderfully pleased. We were all served with tea out of doors, and the company remained together till after eleven o'clock, and then returned joyfully home.

I was much pleased with Seib. He and another schoolmaster, named Kapper, have been dismissed from their office of teacher, because of their holding private meetings and preaching in them, or explaining the Scriptures. Some of the Lutheran ministers are so lifeless that they will not allow the people to meet in private for their edification. The dead persecute the living, and light struggles with darkness. This is even the case in some districts among the Mennonites. The ministers fear that their people should go before them in religious light. The more I see of the _one-man system_, the more I prize the gospel liberty in my own beloved religious Society.

They returned to Neuhoffnung, and on the 13th went to Nicolai Schmidt's at Steinbach.

Attended the meeting there in the morning, and at Gnadenfeld in the evening, in both which places opportunity was given me to communicate what was in my heart for the people.

The settlements of the Molokans, consisting of three villages, each of about a thousand inhabitants, lie to the south of the German colonies.

These people are native Russians and seceders from the Russo-Greek church; they receive their name from the word _Moloko_, milk, because they drink milk on fast-days, which is forbidden by the national religion. The Steppes are their Siberia, to which they have been banished. Their worship is simple, commencing with silence and prayer, and they do not use the ceremonies and discipline common among most other Christians; but they are firm believers in the Christian faith, and many of them are spiritually-minded people.

On the 15th John Yeardley and William Rasche, under the conduct of N.

Schmidt, left Neuhoffnung to visit the Molokans. The first village they came to was Novo-Salifks, a prosperous colony in worldly matters, but said to be behind the others in spiritual life. At the next, Wasilowkov, they met with Terenti Sederhoff, the apostle of the Molokans, whose remarkable history J.Y. related in a tract called _The Russian Peasant_, forming No. 12 of his series. Here they also met with A. Stajoloff, who remembered William Allen's visit in 1819. Sederhoff accompanied them to the third village, Astrachanka, where they had a conversational meeting with several of the chief men, but the intercourse was carried on at a double disadvantage.

They spoke, says John Yeardley, nothing but Russ. T never regretted more the want of the language. Schmidt had a manifest unwillingness to interpret all I wanted to say, because it did not accord with his own sentiments, and he feared it might strengthen the people in those views from which the Mennonites would draw them. There was a precious feeling over us, and I felt a.s.sured they appreciated our motive in visiting them; they often pressed my hand when comparing Scripture texts on which we were of one mind. I felt satisfied in having done what I could to direct them in the right way, and to strengthen them in it. They are well read in the Scriptures.

The travellers pa.s.sed the night at this village, sleeping as usual in their carriage; and the next day, taking a loving leave of their friends, directed their course over the steppes into the Crimea. Here they found themselves in the heart of the Tartar country, beyond the verge of civilized life.

The Tartar villages, says John Yeardley, are the meanest possible, consisting sometimes of mere holes dug in the earth, or huts standing a little above the ground. The men wear wide drawers with the pink shirt over them; the women have a chemise reaching to the calf of the leg, dirty and coa.r.s.e, an ap.r.o.n round the waist, sometimes so scanty or so ragged that it will not meet, and a handkerchief tied in a slovenly manner on the head. In these three articles of dress they drive the horses and oxen; the sun burns them to a dark brown, almost black. The children we saw were quite naked. Various attempts have been made to civilize and instruct them, but without success. One missionary pursued the work so far as to feed and clothe the children, and collect them for instruction, which they received for a while, but all at once and with one consent it was at an end. When I see the Tartar galloping over the steppe as if riding on the wind, it constantly makes me think of the wild Arabs. When we are anxious to find a well of water where we may take our meal, and when we see travellers a.s.sembled to water their cattle and flocks, and the camels running loose on the steppes--which they do till autumn, when they are sought up for work,--all reminds us of customs of the East.

This evening they halted at a Tartar village, where the occupant of the _traktir_, or house of entertainment, persuaded the driver to take out his horses for the night. The conduct of this man and his companions was suspicious; they eagerly examined the mattresses of the travellers, which were of superior quality; and when William Rasche came to make the tea, which he did by the moonlight outside the hut, the boiling water which he poured in to rinse the teapot came out into the tumblers a white liquid; and after the tea was put in the innkeeper held up the pot against the moon, and looked curiously into it. Instead of retiring early, as the Tartars always do, the men in the hut kept a watch upon the travellers; and the suspicions even of the driver were awakened, when one of them came to him, as he was lying by his horses, to borrow his knife. His horses, however, were so weary, and he himself so unwilling to move, that the travelers contented themselves with harnessing the horses, and making ready to depart in case of necessity. Soon after midnight, finding they were still watched by the Tartars, and apprehending that these waited only till they should all be asleep, to carry off their horses or to rob their persons, they decided to make the best of their way out of their hands.

The driver being slow to move, W.R. jumped into his place, seized the reins, and drove quickly off, thankful to have effected a safe escape. It is very common for the Tartars to prowl about in the night, and steal the horses and waggons, of their more settled and thrifty neighbors.