The parting, says J.Y., from the dear family at the school was sorrowful.

Before taking leave, we had a religious opportunity with the children, in which all hearts were touched.

They arrived at Montpelier on the 7th. The pious characters to whom they were introduced in this city were mostly of the upper cla.s.s--bankers, doctors, lawyers, and professors. They found that the principles of the Society of Friends were very little known there, but that many were desirous of being acquainted with them. Being pressed in their spirit to propose a meeting for worship with such as were disposed to give their company, their new friends readily agreed to it, and about thirty-five persons sat down with them at their inn. The a.s.sembly was, as they believed, owned by the great Master, who showed himself to be their strength in the time of weakness, and gave them power to preach the gospel and explain the nature of true worship. Pastor Lissignol and Dr. Parlier were amongst those to whom they were the most united. The latter filled the office of mayor when Josiah Forster and Elizabeth Fry were at Montpelier. He told John and Martha Yeardley that the meeting they had just held had been strengthening to his faith. That the Lord by his Spirit should move the hearts of his children in a distant land to visit his heritage in other countries, he regarded as a proof of his love; and he spoke of the unity of spirit which is felt by those of different nations who love the same Lord, as a precious mark of discipleship.

The town of Montpelier, say J. and M.Y., is built with taste and elegance, and the situation is most delightful: there are 4,000 Protestants in a population of 86,000. On Sixth-day (the 10th) we left this place of deep interest, with hearts grateful to the G.o.d and Father of all our sure mercies, in that he had enabled us to bear a testimony to the spirituality of worship as set forth by our Saviour himself.

After leaving Montpelier, they continue the narrative of their journey as follows:--

We lodged that night at Pa.s.sanas, a dark Roman Catholic town. Inquiring if there were any Protestants, the chambermaid replied, "Protestants! what is that?" When we had made her understand, she said there were a few, but they went to Montagnac to _ma.s.s_.

11_th_.--We slept at Narbonne, an ancient town of 10,000 inhabitants.

No openness to receive even a tract; the inquiry for a Protestant excited an evident bitterness in the reply.

On the 12th, held our little meeting with our faithful friend Jules, in which ability was granted to supplicate for the spread of divine light over this benighted district. At 9 o'clock we set out to make a Sabbath-day's journey: the wind extremely high and always in our face, which fatigued Nimrod [their horse] as well as ourselves. We dined at Lesengnan: not a Protestant in the place, yet we met with a circ.u.mstance worth recording. Jules, who is ever watchful to find out who can read, gave a few tracts to some boys in the stable-yard. When I went out, writes J.Y., to see our horse, several rather bright-looking boys followed me, asking for books. After ascertaining that they, could read, I supplied them. This was no sooner known, than boys and girls came in crowds, soon followed by many of their parents. As our visitors increased, I ran upstairs to fetch my dear M.Y., and we embraced the opportunity to speak to them on the importance of religion. No doubt curiosity drew many to us, for we were a novel sight there, and the mingled mult.i.tude was not less so to us. Among our auditors was a messenger of Satan to buffet us. He was a good-looking man, who expressed a seeming approval of what we had done, saying we made many friends. We told him they were all children of the same Almighty Parent, and that there was but one true religion, and one heaven. This observation drew off his mask, and he began to express doubts whether either heaven or h.e.l.l really existed, and brought forward the threadbare argument of not believing what he could not see or prove. We asked him if he had a soul: he said he had. We asked him how be knew that he had a soul, for he could not see it: he replied, he believed that he had a soul, but that his soul would die with his body. We then asked him why two and two made four: he said he could not tell, and yet acknowledged he was bound to believe it. The countenances of many around beamed with joy at seeing this darkling perplexed; and we did not shrink from exhorting him to repentance and faith in Christ, who died for him and for all men.

On returning to our room the landlady entered with a fine-looking girl, for whom she begged a book. This opened our way to speak to her of things connected with salvation. She said,--"We have not much of religion here."

"Why so?" we asked. "Because the people do not like to confess to the priests." "And what is the use," said we, "of confessing to man?"

"Because," she replied in somewhat trembling accents, "we think it eases our consciences, for the priests are the appointed ministers to take charge of our souls." "What," we replied, "a man take charge of immortal souls! G.o.d never committed the power to forgive sins to man: Jesus Christ alone can pardon sins; he died to save us!" I shall never forget the countenance of this dear woman, which seemed to express her long-shaken confidence in her spiritual guides. We exhorted her to come to the Saviour, who intercedes for us without the aid of man, and gave her a New Testament, which she said she would read.

12_th_.--Went to Maux to sleep. The landlady was communicative: she told us that some travellers like ourselves some time ago had given her a New Testament, which she had lent about the village, together with tracts, and that she wished for more. We inquired if there were any persons in the village who would like to come to us for books. She soon sent us an interesting young woman, a schoolmistress, to whom on her entrance we presented some tracts. She regarded them with an air of thoughtfulness which seemed to measure the quant.i.ty to be taken by the price she would have to pay for them. When she found they were to be had gratis, her countenance brightened, and with it the brightness of her mind showed itself. On speaking with her of the responsibility of her profession, and the importance of imbuing the minds of children with just principles, she said, "I am desirous of instructing the children in the religion of the heart. Religion," added she, "though a good thing, is badly put in practice in our church; the people do not like to confess to the priests, and there is a great desire for instruction and to receive books."

They saw again at the Inn at Maux the man who had opposed them at Lessengnan, and found him much better disposed than he had been the day before. He told them he had been a Romish priest, but being disgusted with the practices of his church, he had left it and joined the army: he promised to read the books they gave him.

Our present mode of travelling (with our own horse), they continue, though somewhat slow, affords opportunities of endeavoring to do a little good, which we should miss in travelling by Diligence or extra-post. It is curious and instructive to observe the various dispositions of the people in the dark places through, which we pa.s.s: sometimes they are so fanatical as to tear a tract before our face; others receive them with joy. During a half-hour's rest for our horse at a village near Castelnaudry, my M.Y.

made the acquaintance of an aged woman at the door of her cottage, who really did us good. On inquiring if she could read, "It is my consolation," said she, "to read the Scriptures." "And we have great need of consolation," we answered. "Yes," said she, "I am a widow of near eighty years, and have had many cares; but I pray to G.o.d, and he grants me the consolation of his Holy Spirit, and if I confide in him he will never forsake me."

At Castelnaudry they left the main road and crossed the mountains to Saverdun, in order to visit the Orphan Inst.i.tution in that place.

By not going first to Toulouse, remarks John Yeardley, we saved about thirty miles of travelling; but it was ill-spared, for one part of the road was so bad that it required a forespan of two oxen to drag the carriage through the deep mire and over the dangerous ditches. After a little dinner at a poor place in the mountains, we procured a mule as a reinforcement; for we stuck so fast in the mud that I never expected we should be able to extricate ourselves. My poor M.Y. had to walk a great part of the way; I am quite sure extra strength was given us for the emergency. We lodged at Mazeres, where we called on the Protestant minister Besiere, a most open-hearted Christian. He knew some of our Society, and wherever this is the case it insures us a welcome. On our telling him the dangers we had encountered on the road, and that we had escaped unhurt, he sweetly said,--"The Angel of the Lord encampeth round about them that fear Him, and delivereth them."--Psal. x.x.xiv. 7.

On arriving at Saverdun, on the 17th, we immediately pursued the object of our visit, and proceeded to the Inst.i.tution, where we delivered our letters of recommendation, and received a cordial reception from the director, Pastor Enjalbal. When the _little porters_ opened the door, they cried one to another, "Voila des Anglais!" The director seems to be wonderfully fitted for the post he fills. He was once a captain in the army. After his conversion, his heart was penetrated with grat.i.tude to his Saviour for bringing him to a knowledge of the truth, and he desired to devote the remainder of his days in doing good to his fellow-creatures, particularly in the instruction of youth. The project of the Saverdun school was then in agitation, and a manager was wanted. The excellent Pastor Chabrand applied to him, knowing him to be the man for the office if he would only undertake it. When he visited him for this purpose on behalf of the committee, he found him in his chamber weeping, and, as his confidential friend, he asked him what was the matter. "Why," said he, "my heart overflows with love to the Saviour, for all that he has done for me, and I seem to live without doing anything for his cause in return."

"Well," said the pastor, "but the way is now open for you; I am come with a proposal from the committee for you to accept the government of the Saverdun Inst.i.tution; but I will not have an answer from you at present: weigh the matter for a fortnight, and I will come again and receive your decision." A sense of duty decided him to accept the offer.

The superintendent conducted us to the members of the committee, to whom we had brought a kind introduction from Pastor Frossard of Nismes. The supporters of this inst.i.tution, are the most influential in the town, rich, and withal pious characters. The Mayor, their secretary, is very active: he with his wife, an excellent woman, and several members of the committee, met us in the evening at our inn; they appeared to be greatly interested in works of benevolence, and in everything connected with religion and education.

_Toulouse_, 3 _mo_. 20.--We arrived in this great and busy city on Seventh-day evening. Our first call was on the brothers Courtois, to whom we had letters of introduction from our Christian friends at Nismes.

They received us in a most cordial manner and were very open and communicative.

On First-day morning, after our little meeting, we called on Professor F.

Banner; he was rejoiced to see my M.Y., whom he knew at Congenies twenty years ago. He was then a Roman Catholic; indeed, in name he is not changed; but he is become very spiritually-minded, and much attached to Friends and our principles, believing them, as he said, to be the nearest in accordance of any with the doctrines of the New Testament. He has been, with his wife, several times to our hotel, and we feel sweet unity with his quiet exercised spirit. His situation here is important, having a boarding-school for the children of Protestants, with a few Roman Catholics, his piety and sincerity securing to him the confidence of both parties, which is matter of wonder in this day of religious conflict. He is one of those characters, more of whom we are desirous of finding; one who wishes rather to enlighten than to censure the dark prejudices of men.

We spent the evening with our kind friends the Courtois, and attended worship in their house. F.C. read the parable of the great supper (Luke xiv.), and made some remarks in explication of it; after which Pastor Chabrand spoke with much feeling on the influence of the Holy Spirit, the gradual operation of the Spirit in the secret of the soul, and the preciousness of dwelling in Christ, as the branch in the vine, in order to bear fruit.

Pastor Chabrand told us in conversation that the first time he really saw the state of his soul and his need of a Saviour, was in the meeting-house at Westminster during half an hour's silence. After this time of precious silence a minister arose[8] and spoke in so remarkable a manner to his state, unfolding the history of his life, that he was melted to tears.

Ever since that time he has appreciated the principles of our religious Society, and particularly our practice of waiting upon G.o.d in silence.

These remarks opened our way to speak on a subject which has often given us pain in our intercourse with pious people, viz., the practice of going suddenly from one religious exercise to another. We expressed our opinion that Christians, in general, in their worship, would derive more edification from what is spoken, if they were to dwell under the good feeling which is sometimes raised, before pa.s.sing so precipitately to singing, or even to prayer. With this he entirely agreed, and thought it a point of the utmost importance; he wished it could be put in practice, for their church in general suffered loss for want of more quiet gathering of spirit before G.o.d.

John and Martha Yeardley did not go further towards the west than Toulouse; on quitting that city they turned northwards to Montauban.

For several days, so they write, before reaching the extent of our journey westward, we travelled through a fertile country, having the Pyrenean mountains on the south, covered with snow, a magnificent sight for those who travel to see the beauties of nature, but our hearts are often too heavy to enjoy them.

_Montauban_, 3 _mo_. 23.--Last evening we reached this pretty town, part of which is built on a high cliff overlooking the river Tarn, and commanding an extensive view over a fertile plain. Our first call was on Professor Monod; his wife is an Englishwoman; she was pleased to see her compatriots, and introduced us to Professor de Felice and some other pious individuals. Professor Monod invited us to spend the evening at their house, along with a number of persons who join in their family reading, and we did not think it right to refuse the invitation. A pretty large company a.s.sembled in the professor's room at 8 o'clock, among whom were some students of the college. The eighth chapter of the Epistle to the Romans was read, and some remarks made by the professor; he then kindly said, if we had any word of exhortation in our hearts, he hoped we should feel quite at liberty to express it. We felt it right to make some observations with reference to the fore-part of the chapter, which sets forth that state of Christian experience in which the mind is prepared to partic.i.p.ate in the many precious promises contained in the middle and latter portions; ability was also given us to express our faith in the one Saviour and Mediator, and in the influence and guidance of the Holy Spirit, and his office in the sanctification of the soul. This favored opportunity closed with supplication. We are well satisfied with our visit to this place; it has removed some prejudices from our minds, and perhaps may have shown to those with whom we have had intercourse that Friends are sound in the faith. The short time we spent with Professor de Felice has left a sweet impression on our minds. He mourned over the want of spiritual life among the Protestants of Montauban, amid, as he said, "much preaching, and many appeals to conscience."

At Castres, where they stopped on the 26th, they visited the Orphan House, and held intercourse with the pastors, and with a pious lawyer.

On our journey, says John Yeardley, we had heard of a man near this town who bore the name of Quaker, and we inquired of the lawyer if he knew whether he was sound in the Christian faith. The lawyer spoke with respect of the so-called Quaker, but thought that in his opinions he favored Arianism. "If so," said I, rather hastily, "we will not seek him or recognize." "Why," said the advocate, "it is the very reason you should go to see him, and try to do him good." At this reply my conscience was stung on account of my hasty conclusion; and after reflecting on the matter, we walked next morning five or six miles into the country in search of the new Friend. He received us with joy, and we soon satisfied ourselves as to his soundness in the Christian faith; but he was rather ardent in his expectations of the reign of Christ on the earth. Twenty years ago he refused to take an oath on a jury; the judge told him he must go to prison, to which the Friend replied, "I am willing to go to prison, but I cannot swear to condemn any person to death; if you place me as juryman I shall acquit all the criminals." The judge, believing his scruples to be sincere, dismissed him without further trouble. This dear man attached himself to us in such a manner that it was difficult to part from him; he pressed us to remain some days in his house, but this our duty did not permit.

From Castres they returned through Beziers to Nismes, visiting various little companies of Protestants by the way, and arrived in the latter city on the 1st of the Fourth Month. They found that the school had increased in numbers, and the scholars had made good progress.

On entering the school-room, says J.Y., the girls all flocked to us, their black eyes sparkling with joy, while they clung round us with their little arms to be embraced. The harmony and peaceful feelings which pervade the family are truly comforting to our hearts.

In taking a retrospect of what they had done up to this time, they write thus to their Friends in England:--

The manner in which our gracious Lord has condescended to open the way for a portion of labor in this part of his vineyard, adds a grain to our faith: the service which has. .h.i.therto fallen to our lot on this journey is of that nature towards which we had a view before we left our native land; and we are bound gratefully to acknowledge, amid many conflicts and discouragements, that sweet peace is sometimes our portion. But our dear friends in England will readily conceive that our baptisms are various and deep, during our separation from the bosom of our own little visible church; and we hope to retain a place in their sympathy and prayers, when they are favored with access to the throne of mercy. Our love flows freely and unceasingly to all our dear friends, from whom it is always comforting to hear. Brethren, pray for us, that the word of the Lord may have free course and be glorified.

On the 18th of the Fourth Month they again left Nismes, and commenced their journey towards Switzerland, accompanied, as before, by Jules Paradon. On their way to Gren.o.ble, they had opportunities of spreading many copies of the _Scripture Extracts_, which they had with them, among the Roman Catholics; and they had also some interesting conversation with individuals of that profession.

At Tullins, they write, the eagerness to receive books was so great, that a crowd soon a.s.sembled around us, and we found it difficult to satisfy them; again, at the moment of our departure, they pressed round our carriage, and we could hardly separate ourselves from them.

On the 22nd (to continue their own narrative) we arrived at Gren.o.ble, with a view to spend First-day there. A letter from one of our acquaintances at Nismes to Pastor Bonifas procured us a kind reception, and he invited us to spend First-day evening at his house, where a meeting was to be held.

We did not, however, feel quite at liberty to attend, as we found the regular church-service would be performed. The next day we received another invitation from the Pastor to a meeting where only the Scriptures would be read. We thought it best to accept it, and by going a little before the time proposed, we had a very interesting conversation with the Pastor, his wife, and a young Englishwoman, on our peculiar views. The meeting was an a.s.sembly of various cla.s.ses, with a preponderance of young persons, and was a very interesting occasion: many of the young people were deeply affected. In the morning of this day we had been to see an aged Catholic woman of the Jansenist persuasion: she appeared to have no dependence but on her Saviour, and, full of faith and love, to have her conversation in heaven; she gave us a sweet benediction at parting.

They left Gren.o.ble on the 25th, and pursued their way by Chambery to Geneva, taking care to dispose of most of their French tracts by the way, lest they should be stopped at the Savoy custom-house. They arrived in the city of Calvin on the 27th.

Here, as on former occasions, they found much to interest them. Several of the ministers and professors whom they had known before, seemed to have become more spiritually-minded; and with the flock of the deceased Pastor Monnie, in particular, "of precious memory," they were united in near Christian fellowship.

It seems to us, they write, that the feeling is spreading of the necessity of the immediate guidance of the Holy Spirit; and we believe that this view of the gospel, with that of the universality of divine love, is much more calculated to win upon unbelievers, and to enlighten Romanists, than the high Calvinistic doctrines which have so generally prevailed, and which impede the growth of Christian humility and daily dependence on divine help.