Mark Bittman's Kitchen Express.

404 inspired seasonal dishes you can make in 20 minutes or less.

by Mark Bittman.

INTRODUCTION.

The simple format of Kitchen Express Kitchen Express belies all that it has to offer. Here are 101 incredibly fast and easy recipes for each season-404 in all. The experienced home cook can play with each to great advantage, yet at their core, they're recipes presented in the simplest form possible, understandable and readily executed by anyone who's done some cooking. belies all that it has to offer. Here are 101 incredibly fast and easy recipes for each season-404 in all. The experienced home cook can play with each to great advantage, yet at their core, they're recipes presented in the simplest form possible, understandable and readily executed by anyone who's done some cooking.

As a group, they are precisely imprecise. This is unusual for recipes, but it's long been my belief that the most specific recipes are the most limiting. Specificity is fine for baking, where the chemistry among the ingredients often determines success or failure. But in savory cooking, where amounts can vary wildly-there's almost never a critical difference between one onion and two: A "head" of broccoli might weigh one or one-and-a-half pounds; a steak may be three-quarters to an inch and a half thick-to try to force cooks to follow recipes demanding precision robs them of the ability to improvise, to relax, to subst.i.tute, to use their own judgment.

Jacques Pepin once remarked to me that the old adage about never stepping foot in the same river twice holds true for recipes also: You don't start with the same amount of ingredients, they're not at the same temperature, they're not the same age or from the same place, the ambient temperature and humidity are probably different, as are your equipment and mood. Everything is different, and the results will be too.

These little recipes acknowledge that up front. I don't really care how much garlic you use in most recipes, so "some" is as good as "a teaspoon." Similarly, garnishes are garnishes: You use more, you use less, you leave them out-it shouldn't matter. "A carrot" in a soup could certainly be a big one or a small one, and so on. So I rarely give exact exact measurements, unless proportions are critical. measurements, unless proportions are critical.

This style of cooking is about three things: speed, flexibility, and relaxation. If you read one of these recipes, if it inspires you, and if you have the ingredients (or something approximating them) to throw it together-then go into the kitchen, a.s.semble what you need, and have at it. Twenty minutes later, max, you'll be eating something delicious. What's wrong with that?

HOW TO USE THIS BOOK.

There are some givens here, and it's worth taking a moment to understand them. I've organized Kitchen Express Kitchen Express by seasons, not because I think grilling in winter or braising in summer is "inappropriate," but because I wanted to feature the right ingredients at the right time. To me, the organization is not dogmatic, but it is realistic, and it jibes with the current trend among savvy eaters to avoid, for example, Southern Hemisphere fruit in winter. As it happens, asparagus is best in spring, broccoli in fall and spring, corn in summer, and so on. You can cook what you want when you want it, of course, but I think that as you're browsing in by seasons, not because I think grilling in winter or braising in summer is "inappropriate," but because I wanted to feature the right ingredients at the right time. To me, the organization is not dogmatic, but it is realistic, and it jibes with the current trend among savvy eaters to avoid, for example, Southern Hemisphere fruit in winter. As it happens, asparagus is best in spring, broccoli in fall and spring, corn in summer, and so on. You can cook what you want when you want it, of course, but I think that as you're browsing in Kitchen Express, Kitchen Express, you're best off starting with the season in which you find yourself; chances are you'll find something appealing right there, one that not only uses the best ingredients available but suits your mood. (When all is said and done, grilling in winter works only occasionally for those of us who have real winters, and braising in summer usually requires a pretty hefty dose of air-conditioning.) you're best off starting with the season in which you find yourself; chances are you'll find something appealing right there, one that not only uses the best ingredients available but suits your mood. (When all is said and done, grilling in winter works only occasionally for those of us who have real winters, and braising in summer usually requires a pretty hefty dose of air-conditioning.) How fast are the recipes? In general the speed with which you execute them depends not on how fast you chop (almost everyone chops better and faster than I do, and I can do any of these in 20 minutes or so) but on how well you're organized, and how well you mult.i.task.

If you're the kind of person who organizes everything ahead of time, then spends a while chopping and a.s.sembling the ingredients, then hovers over the stove and watches everything develop, stirring and turning carefully and lovingly, that's great, but you should figure that these dishes will take you a little longer. These recipes were developed for the type of cook who gets the oil hot while chopping an onion, cooks the onion while peeling and chopping the carrot, adds the carrot and goes on to dice the meat, and so on-a kind of fast, steady, sequential cooking that is more grandmotherly and short-order than it is haute cuisine.

In fact, this is definitely not not haute cuisine. It's very good food, done quickly. The idea here is to provide quick, satisfying dishes-delicious dishes. Many are complete meals, but I've often suggested appropriate accompaniments and serving suggestions to fill them out when necessary. These, of course, are optional. Most often they feature quick-cooked or pre-bought ingredients: bread, steamed broccoli, couscous. This doesn't mean that if you have time you can't make brown rice, or your own bread, or a more complicated vegetable dish. haute cuisine. It's very good food, done quickly. The idea here is to provide quick, satisfying dishes-delicious dishes. Many are complete meals, but I've often suggested appropriate accompaniments and serving suggestions to fill them out when necessary. These, of course, are optional. Most often they feature quick-cooked or pre-bought ingredients: bread, steamed broccoli, couscous. This doesn't mean that if you have time you can't make brown rice, or your own bread, or a more complicated vegetable dish.

And if you have even less time, open a jar of high-quality pickles; steam a plate of vegetables in the microwave; broil some eggplant slices; shred some cabbage or lettuce and serve the meat or seafood on that (it will wilt and collect the flavorful juices); quickly stir-fry a single vegetable in the same pan you used to cook the main course; have sliced fruit on the side; use a fast-frozen vegetable like peas, rutabaga, or corn; make a quick raw-vegetable salad by grating or chopping whatever you'd like and dressing it in a little oil and vinegar. You get the idea.

By the same token, cooking methods are flexible, especially when it comes to grilling, broiling, or using a grill pan. Do what your equipment and the weather allow. In terms of equipment, I only a.s.sume that your kitchen is stocked with a food processor and probably probably a blender. a blender.

Generally, the quant.i.ties in the recipes here are designed for three or four people. But again, the specifications are loose enough so that it won't take much to tweak them for fewer or more servings to make a meal more substantial, or plan ahead for leftovers. You can also combine the dishes in this book to make a larger dinner or pull together a buffet; check out some suggestions on backmatter.

How and when you use the dishes in Kitchen Express Kitchen Express is equally flexible. Some foods become trans-seasonal simply by swapping out a key ingredient (see "Some Simple Subst.i.tutions"). Others transcend the seasons or may have multiple-or more specific-uses worth highlighting. For help finding recipes using a tool besides the seasonal chapters or the index, see "More Ways to Navigate is equally flexible. Some foods become trans-seasonal simply by swapping out a key ingredient (see "Some Simple Subst.i.tutions"). Others transcend the seasons or may have multiple-or more specific-uses worth highlighting. For help finding recipes using a tool besides the seasonal chapters or the index, see "More Ways to Navigate Kitchen Express, Kitchen Express," beginning on the frontmatter.

A WORD ABOUT INGREDIENTS.

The simpler the cooking, the more important the ingredients. The dishes in Kitchen Express Kitchen Express sometimes feature sophisticated combinations, and the occasional odd ingredient, but at their core they are extremely simple, and they rely on good ingredients (which you're more likely to find in season). sometimes feature sophisticated combinations, and the occasional odd ingredient, but at their core they are extremely simple, and they rely on good ingredients (which you're more likely to find in season).

Even when, for the sake of speed, I call for convenience foods like canned beans, stock, or tomatoes, if you can use homemade or fresher versions, the dishes will be all the better. In any case, all your ingredients should be as high quality as you can find. If fresh tomatoes are real and tasty, use 'em, but whenever they're not, canned tomatoes are a better option. And whenever you have time to make stock or beans, for example, from scratch, you should-refrigerate or freeze them for future use and your Kitchen Express Kitchen Expressstyle dishes will shine more brightly.

Like many modern cooks, I use extra-virgin olive oil for my cooking fat all the time, unless I want a more neutral flavor (in which case I use grapeseed or another oil), or a different flavor (like peanut), or a higher smoke point (in which case most oils are better than olive). In theory at least, all extra-virgin olive oil is high quality; for other oils, look for those that are cold-pressed or minimally processed.

I use a lot of really fast-cooking ingredients here: boneless meats, plenty of seafood, quick-cooking vegetables, grains like couscous (which is actually not a grain but a pasta) and bulgur (which steeps faster than rice cooks). As a result, as often as not, your rinsing, tr.i.m.m.i.n.g, peeling, and chopping will take as long as your cooking. (As most veteran cooks know, shopping is the most time-consuming aspect of cooking, so if you keep a well-stocked pantry, you're miles ahead of the game.) I'm a.s.suming everything you start with is thawed, your shrimp is peeled, your mussels are scrubbed, your poultry is boned, and so on. The cooking methods I use are the quickest: sauteing (which I often call simply "cooking"), boiling, steaming, and grilling (or broiling; anything that can be grilled can be broiled, and vice versa). And I rely heavily on those convenience foods we don't think of as such: prosciutto and bacon, Parmesan and soy-these are ingredients that are front-loaded with time and labor so that we can use them to flavor dishes quickly.

Finally, I have tried my best to make these recipes as uncomplicated as possible, and-counter to my inclinations, and to most of the work I've done in other books-have avoided spelling out as many variations and subst.i.tutions as possible. Every cook with even a minimum of experience will quickly realize that string beans can be swapped for asparagus when the latter is unavailable, or that ground turkey (or even ground salmon, or shrimp) can almost always be subst.i.tuted for ground beef. (See the table on frontmatter for some more examples of easy subst.i.tutions.) You can't make a roast chicken without a chicken, it's true, but very few of the ingredients in these (or other) recipes are sacred. The goals are these: Get good food onto the table, fast, and have fun doing so.

THE KITCHEN EXPRESS KITCHEN EXPRESS PANTRY PANTRY.

Over the years, I've cooked substantial meals in the tiniest, most poorly equipped kitchens-even non-kitchens-that you can imagine. So I can say with the utmost confidence that the size of your larder is less important than how you stock it. It's equally true that the more you cook-and the more varied your recipe repertoire-the deeper your pantry will be, as you collect a range of global ingredients that reflect the way you like to eat.

Since this book a.s.sumes you're an enthusiastic cook, it also a.s.sumes you already have a well-stocked pantry. What follows, then, are specific lists of the foods you should keep handy if you want to cook in the style I'm outlining here.

Must your pantry contain these exact staples? Of course not. You will naturally gravitate toward the flavors and ingredients you prefer, and I've noted the cases that reflect some of these potential preferences. But cooking at home becomes exponentially easier, faster, and more spontaneous when you have basic foods at arm's reach.

In the Cupboard These are all shelf-stable products that should be stored at room temperature (cool room temperature is best, though obviously not always possible), preferably in the dark (or at least out of direct sunlight). This list starts with the ones you're likely to use most, and I've noted the semi-perishable foods to consider freezing or refrigerating if you don't go through them fast. In general, replace anything else on this list every year or so.

Oils: Extra-virgin olive oil, and at least one vegetable oil (I like grapeseed or peanut oil) for when you want something neutral for Asian cooking or at other times when olive oil is too strong. Sesame oil is nice for drizzling, and a little goes a long way. Choose high-quality, minimally processed oils for the purest flavors; and if you don't go through them very fast, store the bottles in the fridge. Extra-virgin olive oil, and at least one vegetable oil (I like grapeseed or peanut oil) for when you want something neutral for Asian cooking or at other times when olive oil is too strong. Sesame oil is nice for drizzling, and a little goes a long way. Choose high-quality, minimally processed oils for the purest flavors; and if you don't go through them very fast, store the bottles in the fridge.

Vinegars: Sherry vinegar (which is higher in acidity than other types) is my favorite, though a good white wine vinegar is also useful. Balsamic and rice vinegars have no replacements, and with their relatively low acidity they work more like condiments than stronger vinegars. Sherry vinegar (which is higher in acidity than other types) is my favorite, though a good white wine vinegar is also useful. Balsamic and rice vinegars have no replacements, and with their relatively low acidity they work more like condiments than stronger vinegars.

Sauces: Soy, hot pepper, nam pla (Thai fish sauce), hoisin sauce, and maybe Worcestershire sauce are the only ones you need. If you don't make your own salsa or barbecue sauce, then maybe you want good-quality store-bought bottles of these on hand, too. Soy, hot pepper, nam pla (Thai fish sauce), hoisin sauce, and maybe Worcestershire sauce are the only ones you need. If you don't make your own salsa or barbecue sauce, then maybe you want good-quality store-bought bottles of these on hand, too.

Condiments: Mustard (maybe more than one kind), ketchup, and mayonnaise (again, if you don't make your own). Though I'm not a fan of vinegary pickles and relishes, a lot of people are. And capers are endlessly useful. Once all these condiments are open, store them in the fridge if you're worried about leaving them at room temperature for long. Mustard (maybe more than one kind), ketchup, and mayonnaise (again, if you don't make your own). Though I'm not a fan of vinegary pickles and relishes, a lot of people are. And capers are endlessly useful. Once all these condiments are open, store them in the fridge if you're worried about leaving them at room temperature for long.

Canned Tomatoes and Paste: Whole plum tomatoes are better than diced. Just break them up with your hands right in the can and pull out the tough core; or take them out and roughly chop as you would a fresh tomato. If you don't need the juice, refrigerate it to drink or use later. The handiest way to buy tomato paste is in tubes, but if you can't find it that way, small cans or jars are fine. When I say "a can of tomatoes" I mean the standard-size can (which runs about 15 ounces), unless a large (28-ounce) can or other quant.i.ty is specified. Whole plum tomatoes are better than diced. Just break them up with your hands right in the can and pull out the tough core; or take them out and roughly chop as you would a fresh tomato. If you don't need the juice, refrigerate it to drink or use later. The handiest way to buy tomato paste is in tubes, but if you can't find it that way, small cans or jars are fine. When I say "a can of tomatoes" I mean the standard-size can (which runs about 15 ounces), unless a large (28-ounce) can or other quant.i.ty is specified.

Stock: This is a tough one because premade stock is not a tenth as good as even the fastest batch you can whip up yourself; but it's undeniably convenient. So if you find a brand you can tolerate, keep it on hand. Water is a good subst.i.tute in most cases, and I rely on it more and more. This is a tough one because premade stock is not a tenth as good as even the fastest batch you can whip up yourself; but it's undeniably convenient. So if you find a brand you can tolerate, keep it on hand. Water is a good subst.i.tute in most cases, and I rely on it more and more.

Rice: White long-grain rice can be ready in 20 minutes; short-grain is a little faster. Brown rice takes about twice as long. But the good news about all of these (as well as the grains that follow) is that once cooked, they keep in the fridge for several days and reheat well in the microwave. So cooking in bulk ahead of time is an option, too. White long-grain rice can be ready in 20 minutes; short-grain is a little faster. Brown rice takes about twice as long. But the good news about all of these (as well as the grains that follow) is that once cooked, they keep in the fridge for several days and reheat well in the microwave. So cooking in bulk ahead of time is an option, too.

Quick-Cooking Grains: White or whole wheat couscous (which is actually a pasta) and bulgur require only steeping. If you're willing to wait 20 to 30 minutes for grains to get tender, you might want to try steel-cut oats, cracked wheat, kasha, or quinoa. White or whole wheat couscous (which is actually a pasta) and bulgur require only steeping. If you're willing to wait 20 to 30 minutes for grains to get tender, you might want to try steel-cut oats, cracked wheat, kasha, or quinoa.

Pasta: Like rice, pasta can be ready by the time the main recipe is. Include enough time to bring a pot of water to a boil (putting a lid on it really helps speed things up). Keep long strands or cut noodles handy-whatever you like. The thinner the pasta, though, the quicker the cooking time, so if you're really pressed, think angel hair. Like rice, pasta can be ready by the time the main recipe is. Include enough time to bring a pot of water to a boil (putting a lid on it really helps speed things up). Keep long strands or cut noodles handy-whatever you like. The thinner the pasta, though, the quicker the cooking time, so if you're really pressed, think angel hair.

Asian Noodles: Rice sticks, rice vermicelli, and bean threads (sometimes called gla.s.s noodles) all get tender after 10 minutes or so of soaking in hot water. Soba, somen, udon, and dried Chinese egg noodles require cooking but generally take less time than Italian pasta; the fresh kinds take only a minute or two. Rice sticks, rice vermicelli, and bean threads (sometimes called gla.s.s noodles) all get tender after 10 minutes or so of soaking in hot water. Soba, somen, udon, and dried Chinese egg noodles require cooking but generally take less time than Italian pasta; the fresh kinds take only a minute or two.

Beans: Chickpeas, cannellini, pinto, and black beans. Canned beans are one solution, since you obviously can't cook dried beans in less than 20 minutes (though lentils and split peas almost make the cut). But if you cook a pot of lightly seasoned dried beans, then freeze them in small portions along with some of the cooking liquid, you can essentially stock your own "canned" beans. Only these will be infinitely better. (When I say "a can of beans" I mean the standard can, about 15 ounces, which equals about two cups.) Chickpeas, cannellini, pinto, and black beans. Canned beans are one solution, since you obviously can't cook dried beans in less than 20 minutes (though lentils and split peas almost make the cut). But if you cook a pot of lightly seasoned dried beans, then freeze them in small portions along with some of the cooking liquid, you can essentially stock your own "canned" beans. Only these will be infinitely better. (When I say "a can of beans" I mean the standard can, about 15 ounces, which equals about two cups.)

Crackers, Croutons, and Breadcrumbs: Preferably homemade. Tightly sealed, they'll keep longer than you think. Panko breadcrumbs are my favorite store-bought variety because they're big and crunchy. Preferably homemade. Tightly sealed, they'll keep longer than you think. Panko breadcrumbs are my favorite store-bought variety because they're big and crunchy.

Flours: For the cooking in this book, you generally won't need more than small quant.i.ties of white flour-usually for dredging-or sometimes cornmeal. If you don't bake regularly, refrigerate or freeze flours in tightly sealed containers or bags. For the cooking in this book, you generally won't need more than small quant.i.ties of white flour-usually for dredging-or sometimes cornmeal. If you don't bake regularly, refrigerate or freeze flours in tightly sealed containers or bags.

Dried Fruit, Including Dried Tomatoes: They keep so well, don't take up much room, and quickly add heft, flavor, and nutrition to many pasta, meat, and poultry dishes. They keep so well, don't take up much room, and quickly add heft, flavor, and nutrition to many pasta, meat, and poultry dishes.

Chocolate, Nuts, and Seeds: Not just for snacking, but for cooking too. Almonds, hazelnuts, and peanuts are basic, as are sesame, pumpkin, or sunflower seeds; shredded unsweetened coconut is also useful. Keep them in the freezer if you don't use them within a month. For chocolate I generally stick to bittersweet with a high percentage of cacao. Unsweetened cocoa powder is nice to have around, and it keeps forever, too. Not just for snacking, but for cooking too. Almonds, hazelnuts, and peanuts are basic, as are sesame, pumpkin, or sunflower seeds; shredded unsweetened coconut is also useful. Keep them in the freezer if you don't use them within a month. For chocolate I generally stick to bittersweet with a high percentage of cacao. Unsweetened cocoa powder is nice to have around, and it keeps forever, too.

Onions, Shallots, Garlic, and Ginger: The so-called aromatic vegetables. Keep them at room temperature as long as possible, then move them to the fridge if they start to shrivel. If you want to keep a k.n.o.b of ginger for a long time, wrap it well and freeze it, or trim off any rough spots and drop it into a small jar of vodka, close the lid, and store it in the fridge. The so-called aromatic vegetables. Keep them at room temperature as long as possible, then move them to the fridge if they start to shrivel. If you want to keep a k.n.o.b of ginger for a long time, wrap it well and freeze it, or trim off any rough spots and drop it into a small jar of vodka, close the lid, and store it in the fridge.

Potatoes and Sweet Potatoes: You won't have time to bake or roast them with the recipes here, but they cook fast if you cut them small or grate them. You won't have time to bake or roast them with the recipes here, but they cook fast if you cut them small or grate them.

Canned Fish: Oil-packed chunk light tuna is what I recommend for the dishes in this book. It also wouldn't hurt to keep a can each of whole sardines and anchovies and good-quality Alaskan salmon on hand. Oil-packed chunk light tuna is what I recommend for the dishes in this book. It also wouldn't hurt to keep a can each of whole sardines and anchovies and good-quality Alaskan salmon on hand.

Canned Vegetables: None-with the sole exceptions of chiles, like chipotle in adobo sauce, roasted green chiles, or roasted red peppers. None-with the sole exceptions of chiles, like chipotle in adobo sauce, roasted green chiles, or roasted red peppers.

Salt and Pepper: Kosher salt rather than iodized table salt. (Good sea salt, like fleur de sel, is also handy; use it as a condiment.) Whole peppercorns to grind as you use them are a must. If you haven't done so already, invest in a good grinder; you'll notice the difference immediately. Kosher salt rather than iodized table salt. (Good sea salt, like fleur de sel, is also handy; use it as a condiment.) Whole peppercorns to grind as you use them are a must. If you haven't done so already, invest in a good grinder; you'll notice the difference immediately.

Spices: You can't have too many, but start with c.u.min, mustard, saffron, cinnamon, coriander, dried chiles, and blends like curry and chili powders. I try to toast and grind my own, but it's not always practical; buy ground when necessary. You can't have too many, but start with c.u.min, mustard, saffron, cinnamon, coriander, dried chiles, and blends like curry and chili powders. I try to toast and grind my own, but it's not always practical; buy ground when necessary.

Herbs: Few dried herbs are worth the price, but oregano, thyme, rosemary, dill, and tarragon can be useful. I shop at Penzey's (www.penzeys.com) for dried herbs and spices. Few dried herbs are worth the price, but oregano, thyme, rosemary, dill, and tarragon can be useful. I shop at Penzey's (www.penzeys.com) for dried herbs and spices.