[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 29

_Timber hitch and half hitch_]

=1130. Bowline=, Fig. 30, forms a loop that will not slip. Make loop with the standing part of the rope underneath, pa.s.s the end from below through the loop, over the part round the standing part of the rope, and then down through the loop _c_. The length of bight depends upon the purpose for which the knot is required.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 30

_Bowline_]

=1131. Bowline on a bight=, Fig. 31. The first part is made like the above, with the double part of a rope; then the bight _a_ is pulled through sufficiently to allow it to be bent past _d_ and come up in the position shown. It makes a more comfortable sling for a man than a single bight.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 31

_Bowline on a Bight_]

=1132. Sheep shank=, Fig. 32, used for shortening a rope or to pa.s.s by a weak spot; a half hitch is taken with the standing parts around the bights.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 32

_Sheep shank_]

=1133. Short splice.= To make a _short splice_, Figs. 33, 34, 35, unlay the strands of each rope for a convenient length. Bring the rope ends together so that each strand of one rope lies between the two consecutive strands of the other rope. Draw the strands of the first rope along the second and grasp with one hand. Then work a free strand of the second rope over the nearest strand of the first rope and under the second strand, working in a direction opposite to the twist of the rope. The same operation applied to all the strands will give the result shown by Fig. 34. The splicing may be continued in the same manner to any extent (Fig. 35) and the free ends of the strands may be cut off when desired. The splice may be neatly tapered by cutting out a few fibers from each strand each time it is pa.s.sed through the rope.

Rolling under a board or the foot will make the splice compact.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 33

_Short splice_]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 34]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 35]

=1134. Long splice= (Figs. 36, 37).--Unlay the strands of each rope for a convenient length and bring together as for a short splice.

Unlay to any desired length a strand, _d_, of one rope, laying in its place the nearest strand, _a_, of the other rope. Repeat the operation in the opposite direction with two other strands, _c_ and _f_. Fig. 37 shows strands _c_ and _f_ secured by tying together. Strands b and e are shown secured by unlaying half of each for a suitable length and laying half of the other in place of the unlayed portions, the loose ends being pa.s.sed through the rope. This splice is used when the rope is to run through a block. The diameter of the rope is not enlarged at the splice. The ends of the strands should not be trimmed off close until the splice has been thoroughly stretched by work.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 36

_Long splice_]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 37]

=1135. Eye splice= (Figs. 38, 39, 40, 41).--Unlay a convenient length of rope. Pa.s.s one loose strand, _a_, under one strand of the rope, as shown in fig. 38, forming an eye of the proper size. Pa.s.s a second loose strand, _b_, under the strand of the rope next to the strand which secures _a_, Fig. 39. Pa.s.s the third strand, _c_, under the strand next to that which secures _b_, fig. 40. Draw all taut and continue and complete as for a short splice.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 38

_Eye splice_]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 39]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 40]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 41]

Lashings

=1136. To lash a transom to an upright spar=, Fig. 42, transom in front of upright.--A clove hitch is made round the upright a few inches below the transom. The lashing is brought under the transom, up in front of it, horizontally behind the upright, down in front of the transom, and back behind the upright at the level of the bottom of the transom and above the clove hitch. The following turns are kept outside the previous ones on one spar and inside on the other, not riding over the turns already made. Four turns or more are required. A couple of frapping turns are then taken between the spars, around the lashing, and the lashing is finished off either round one of the spars or any part of the lashing through which the rope can be pa.s.sed. The final clove hitch should never be made around the spar on the side toward which the stress is to come, as it may jam and be difficult to remove. The lashing must be well beaten with handspike or pick handle to tighten it up. This is called a square shears are laid alongside of each other with their b.u.t.ts on the ground, lashing.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 42]

=1137. Lashing for a pair of shears=, Fig. 43.--The two spars for the points below where the lashing is to be resting on a skid. A clove hitch is made round one spar and the lashing taken loosely eight or nine times about the two spars above it without riding. A couple of frapping turns are then taken between the spars and the lashing is finished off with a clove hitch above the turns on one of the spars.

The b.u.t.ts of the spars are then opened out and a sling pa.s.sed over the fork, to which the block is hooked or lashed, and fore and back guys are made fast with clove hitches to the bottom and top spars, respectively, just above the each spar the distance from the b.u.t.t to the center of the lashing. Lay two of the spars parallel to each other with an interval a little greater fork, Fig. 44.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 43]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 44]

=1138. To lash three spars together as for a gin or tripod.=--Mark on than the diameter. Rest their tips on a skid and lay the third spar between them with its b.u.t.t in the opposite direction so that the marks on the three spars will be in line. Make a clove hitch on one of the outer spars below the lashing and take eight or nine loose turns around the three, as shown in Fig. 45. Take a couple of frapping turns between each pair of spars in succession and finish with a clove hitch on the central spar above the lashing. Pa.s.s a sling over the lashing and the tripod is ready for raising.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 45]

=1139. Holdfasts.=--To prepare a fastening in the ground for the attachment of guys or purchases, stout pickets are driven into the ground one behind the other, in the line of pull. The head of each picket except the last is secured by a lashing to the foot of the picket next behind, Fig. 46. The lashings are tightened by rack sticks, the points of which are driven into the ground to hold them in position. The distance between the stakes should be several times the height of the stake above the ground.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 46]

Another form requiring more labor but having much greater strength is called a "_deadman_," and consists of a log laid in a transverse trench with an inclined trench intersecting it at its middle point.

The cable is pa.s.sed down the inclined trench, takes several round turns on the log, and is fastened to it by half hitches and marlin stopping, Figs. 47, 48, 49. If the cable is to lead horizontally or inclined downward, it should pa.s.s over a log at the outlet of the inclined trench, Fig. 48. If the cable is to lead upward, this log is not necessary, but the anchor log must be buried deeper.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 47]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 48]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 49]

CHAPTER X

FIELD FORTIFICATIONS

=1140. Object.= The object of field fortifications is two-fold.

1. To increase the fighting power of troops by enabling the soldier to use his weapons with the greatest possible effect.

2. To protect the soldier against the enemy's fire.

=1141. How these objects are accomplished.=