Fettuccine di Scrippelle Serves 6 Serves 6 c.r.a.pes, or scrippelle scrippelle, are a big part of the menu in Le Marche, as a garnish in soups, filled with grated cheese, or used like pasta, as they are in this delicious ca.s.serole. In fact, if you are reluctant to make your own fresh pasta, this might be a first step. The scrippelle scrippelle are easy to make and can be fried in advance, then sliced into ribbons for the recipe. are easy to make and can be fried in advance, then sliced into ribbons for the recipe.

- FOR THE SCRIPPELLE SCRIPPELLE - 6 large eggs eggs - 1 cups cold water water - cup (loosely packed) fresh marjoram fresh marjoram or or basil basil leaves, chopped leaves, chopped - 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour all-purpose flour - 1 teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - Freshly ground black pepper black pepper to taste to taste - Extra-virgin olive oil for the c.r.a.pe pan for the c.r.a.pe pan - FOR THE SAUCE AND Ca.s.sEROLE - 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for the baking pan - 1 medium onion onion, chopped (about 1 cup) - cup white wine white wine - 2 tablespoons tomato paste tomato paste - 1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest lemon zest - teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A heavy-bottomed nonstick skillet or cast-iron c.r.a.pe pan, 10-inch diameter; a heavy saucepan, 10 inches wide, with a 3-to-4-quart capacity; a large oval baking dish or shallow ca.s.serole with a 3-quart capacity To make the scrippelle: scrippelle: Whisk together the eggs, the water, chopped herbs, flour, salt, and pepper in a large bowl until well blended. Whisk together the eggs, the water, chopped herbs, flour, salt, and pepper in a large bowl until well blended.

Brush the skillet with olive oil. Set over medium-high heat, and cook until hot but not smoking. Ladle a level cup of the batter into the pan, then quickly tilt and swirl the pan to coat the bottom. Let cook about 1 minute, until the batter is set all over and the bottom is browned, then flip with a spatula and cook another minute, until the second side is well browned. Drop the c.r.a.pe out of the pan onto a dinner plate. Cook all the scrippelle scrippelle in the same way, piling them up when done. If they stick or the pan seems dry, brush with more oil. You should get about 10 in the same way, piling them up when done. If they stick or the pan seems dry, brush with more oil. You should get about 10 scrippelle. scrippelle.

When you're ready to a.s.semble and bake the dish, heat the oven to 425 and arrange a rack in the middle.

For the sauce: Pour the olive oil into the saucepan, and set it over medium heat. Stir in the chopped onion, and cook until wilted, about 4 or 5 minutes. Pour in the white wine, and boil for a minute or two, to reduce the alcohol. Meanwhile, stir the tomato paste in 1 cups hot water until dissolved. Pour the tomato water into the pan, and stir in the lemon zest and salt. Simmer the sauce until slightly thickened, about 10 minutes.

To make the scrippelle scrippelle ribbons, roll up each ribbons, roll up each scrippella scrippella and slice it crosswise into -inch-thick spirals. Unfurl these into strips, resembling fettucine, and heap them in a large bowl. Sprinkle half of the grated cheese on the ribbons, and toss well. Brush the baking dish with a thin film of olive oil. and slice it crosswise into -inch-thick spirals. Unfurl these into strips, resembling fettucine, and heap them in a large bowl. Sprinkle half of the grated cheese on the ribbons, and toss well. Brush the baking dish with a thin film of olive oil.

Spread about a quarter of the sauce over the bottom of the baking dish. Spread a third of the ribbons loosely in the dish, and sprinkle over them a couple tablespoons of the remaining cheese. Create two more layers the same way, distributing sauce, ribbons, and grated cheese evenly in the dish, reserving the last quarter of sauce to drizzle over the top. Take care not to compress the scrippelle scrippelle strips, so the ca.s.serole remains light and airy. strips, so the ca.s.serole remains light and airy.

Bake, uncovered, until the top is crisp and golden, about 20 minutes. Serve immediately.

ZITI WITH T TUNA A ASCOLI-STYLE.

Ziti all'Ascolana Serves 6 Serves 6 Ascoli is a city in the Marche region known for its big green olives. They add a distinctive local flavor to this sauce of tomatoes and canned tuna, a pasta dressing found in many regions of Italy. If you can't find Ascolane olives, other green Italian olives will do. Do not be afraid to alter some of the other ingredients to make your own version of this tasty sauce. For example, anchovies add complexity, but you could omit them if you choose. And though chopped parsley is fine, a little mint and/or a little oregano could go far. Also, do not feel compelled to use the exact pasta shape: I call for ziti here, but fusilli, sh.e.l.ls, or mafalde could all add a new dimension to this dish.

- Kosher salt for the pasta water for the pasta water - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 3 plump garlic garlic cloves, peeled and sliced cloves, peeled and sliced - cup green brine-cured Italian olives green brine-cured Italian olives, such as Ascolane, Castelvetrano, or Cerignola, pitted and chopped - 3 anchovy fillets anchovy fillets, chopped (about 1 tablespoon) - teaspoon peperoncino flakes peperoncino flakes, or to taste - 3 cups (one 28-ounce can) canned Italian plum tomatoes plum tomatoes, preferably San Marzano, crushed by hand - A 6-ounce can tuna tuna in olive oil, preferably imported from Italy in olive oil, preferably imported from Italy - 1 pound ziti ziti RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A large pot for cooking the pasta; a heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or larger Bring a big pot of salted water to the boil.

Pour the olive oil into the big skillet, and set it over medium heat. Scatter in the garlic, and cook, stirring, for a minute or so, until sizzling, then add the olives, anchovies, and peperoncino. Cook and stir for a couple of minutes, as the anchovies melt in the oil. Pour in the tomatoes, rinse the can with 1 cup water, and pour that in. Bring the sauce to a bubbling simmer, and let it perk, uncovered, for about 10 minutes.

Drain the tuna, and break it up into bite-sized chunks. When the sauce has been bubbling a while, stir in the tuna without breaking up the pieces. Simmer the sauce another 5 minutes, or until it is nicely thickened and full of flavor.

Start cooking the ziti (or other pasta) about the same time you add the tuna to the skillet. When the pasta is al dente al dente, lift it from the pot with a spider, let it drain briefly, and drop it into the barely simmering sauce. Toss together until the pasta is evenly coated with sauce, sprinkle the chopped parsley (or other herb) over all, and briefly toss again. Serve immediately in warm bowls.

FISH WITH P PEPPER S SAUCE.

Pesce ai Peperoni Serves 6 Serves 6 This tasty sauce goes well with all kinds of fish. In the recipe, I use firm white fish, frying the fillets first, then briefly simmering them in the sauce. The acidity and intensity of the sauce also complement more oily fish, such as bluefish and mackerel. I like to grill bluefish whole (rather than fry them), then remove the skin and bones, and serve topped with sauce.

- 3 medium bell peppers bell peppers, both red and yellow - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 2 teaspoons kosher salt kosher salt - 1 medium onion onion, chopped (about 1 cup) - 2 medium stalks celery celery, roughly chopped (about 1 cup) - teaspoon peperoncino flakes peperoncino flakes, or to taste - 6 sprigs fresh marjoram fresh marjoram - 8 fresh sage fresh sage leaves leaves - Finely grated zest of 1 orange orange (about 1 tablespoon) (about 1 tablespoon) - 2 cups canned Italian plum tomatoes plum tomatoes, preferably San Marzano, crushed by hand - About 2 pounds firm white fish fillets white fish fillets with skin, such as grouper or halibut with skin, such as grouper or halibut - cup all-purpose flour all-purpose flour RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A medium skillet, 9- or 10-inch diameter, with a cover; a high-sided saute pan or braising pan, about 12-inch diameter, with a cover; a food mill or potato masher; a heavy-bottomed nonstick skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or larger To roast the peppers: Heat the oven to 350. Rub the peppers all over with 1 tablespoon of olive oil, season with teaspoon salt, and place them on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Roast for 30 minutes or so, turning occasionally, until the skins are wrinkled and slightly charred. Let the peppers cool completely, then peel off the loosened, charred skin. Slice the peppers lengthwise, discard the stem, and sc.r.a.pe out the seeds. Cut the halves crosswise in -inch strips, and let them drain and dry in a sieve.

Pour cup olive oil into the skillet, and set it over medium heat. Stir in the onion and celery, season with 1 teaspoon of the salt and the peperoncino, and cook them for a few minutes to soften. Stir in the marjoram, sage, and orange zest, and heat until everything is sizzling, then pour in the tomatoes along with a cup of water used to rinse the tomato can and bowl. Partially cover the pan, heat to a boil, and adjust the heat to keep the sauce perking steadily. Cook about 20 minutes, until the onion and celery are tender, then remove the pan from the heat.

Pour the sauce into a food mill set over a clean saucepan and pa.s.s it through (or mash the sauce with a potato masher and press it through a wire strainer). Rinse the skillet with a cup of water, and stir into the strained sauce. You should have about 2 cups sauce in all. Stir in the pepper strips, and keep the sauce over low heat while you flour and fry the fish.

Season the fillets with the remaining teaspoon salt, and lightly dredge them in the flour, coating both sides and shaking off the excess. Pour the remaining olive oil into the nonstick skillet, and set over high heat. Lay the fillets in the pan, flesh side down, and let them cook, without moving, until the first side is nicely browned, about 3 minutes. Carefully turn the fish, and cook until the skin side is crisp, 2 to 3 minutes more.

Turn off the heat, spoon any excess oil out of the pan, and pour in the pepper sauce so it surrounds the fillets. Bring to a bubbling simmer, and cook the fish in the sauce just until cooked through, 5 minutes or so, depending on thickness.

Remove the pan from the heat, and lift the fillets with a spatula onto a large warm platter. Spoon the sauce over the fish, sprinkle the parsley on top, and serve immediately.

RABBIT WITH O ONIONS.

Coniglio con Cipolla Serves 4 to 6 Serves 4 to 6 Every region in Italy cooks rabbit, and I love it-it is tasty, healthy, and low in fat. So in every one of my books I include a rabbit recipe.

Though a whole cut-up rabbit is traditional, I recommend rabbit legs for this delicious braise. They are worth looking for-easier to handle, more moist when cooked, and yielding a good portion of meat versus bones. (If you can't find legs, a whole rabbit, cut in serving pieces, will work fine in this recipe.) Should you have any leftovers, do what I do: shred the meat off the bones back into the sauce, and freeze. It will be a great dressing for pasta when you are late and tired and want a quick, delicious meal.

- 3 ounces thickly sliced pancetta pancetta or or prosciutto prosciutto ends ends - 4 plump garlic garlic cloves, peeled cloves, peeled - 2 tablespoons loosely packed fresh sage fresh sage leaves (6 to 8 large leaves) leaves (6 to 8 large leaves) - 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 6 bone-in rabbit legs rabbit legs or a or a whole rabbit whole rabbit, about 3 pounds, cut into serving pieces - 1 teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour all-purpose flour - cup white wine white wine - 1 tablespoon red-wine vinegar red-wine vinegar - cup chicken broth chicken broth or or water water - 1 pound cipolline onions cipolline onions, peeled RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A food processor; a deep skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter, with a cover Using a food processor, mince the pancetta, garlic, sage, and 2 tablespoons of the olive oil into a fine-textured pestata. pestata.

Pour the remaining olive oil into the skillet, set it over medium-high heat, and sc.r.a.pe in the pestata. pestata. Cook and stir until the Cook and stir until the pestata pestata has dried and just begins to stick to the bottom of the pan, about 3 to 4 minutes. Meanwhile, put the rabbit legs (or cut pieces) in a big bowl, season all over with the salt, then sprinkle the flour over them and toss to coat the legs evenly. has dried and just begins to stick to the bottom of the pan, about 3 to 4 minutes. Meanwhile, put the rabbit legs (or cut pieces) in a big bowl, season all over with the salt, then sprinkle the flour over them and toss to coat the legs evenly.

Lay the legs or pieces in the pan in one layer, reduce the heat, and cover the pan. Cook gently for about 10 minutes, allowing the meat to give up its juices and brown very slowly, until the legs are lightly colored on one side. Flip them over, cover the skillet, and slowly brown the second side, another 10 minutes or so.

Stir together the wine, vinegar, and chicken broth or water, and pour into skillet, swirling to blend the liquid and meat juices. Turn up the heat a bit, drop the cipolline into the s.p.a.ces between rabbit pieces, scatter the capers in the pan, and bring the braising liquid to a simmer. Cover, and cook gently about 30 minutes, or until the rabbit is tender and the braising liquid has thickened. Uncover, and cook to reduce the pan juices to a thick glaze, turning and tumbling the legs and onions to coat them all over.

Serve the rabbit legs and cipolline right from the skillet, or heap them on a platter or in a shallow serving bowl. Spoon out any sauce and capers left in the pan, and drizzle over the rabbit.

ASCOLANE O OLIVESAscolane olives were a delicacy even in Roman times. The elder Pliny praised the excellence of picenae picenae (as they were then called), and there is doc.u.mentation in old records of the practice of removing the pits from these delicious olives. The hollow cores of these big olives were undoubtedly stuffed in many ways over the centuries, but the most celebrated is the traditional olive (as they were then called), and there is doc.u.mentation in old records of the practice of removing the pits from these delicious olives. The hollow cores of these big olives were undoubtedly stuffed in many ways over the centuries, but the most celebrated is the traditional olive all'Ascolana all'Ascolana (invented about 200 years ago), in which the olives are stuffed with chopped meat and herbs, then breaded and fried. (invented about 200 years ago), in which the olives are stuffed with chopped meat and herbs, then breaded and fried.

CHICKEN WITH O OLIVES & P & PINE N NUTS.

Pollo con Olive e Pignoli Serves 6 Serves 6 Pan-cooked chicken, caramelized and sticky to the fingers, moist and flavorful inside, is a favorite food around the world. If there are chicken-lovers in your family (as in mine), this Le Marche version is sure to be a hit. Its special taste and texture come from the region's big fat Ascolane olives, which imbue the chicken with flavor, and the crunch of native pine nuts.

Though authentic Ascolane olives are fantastic in this dish, they're only occasionally available in the United States. But other varieties of green, brine-cured Italian olives (such as Castelvetrano or Cerignola) will be delicious, too; just keep in mind that the saltiness of olives will vary, and season accordingly.

"How about black olives?" you ask. And I say, "Black oil-cured olives will be delicious as well; even a green-and-black combination would be nice."

Choose your preferred chicken pieces, too. A whole bird, cut up, is fine, though all dark meat-drumsticks and thighs-is my favorite. And if you are in a hurry (or watching your fat intake), use breast pieces. With these, you can cut the oil and b.u.t.ter in the recipe in half and, because breast meat cooks faster, brown the pieces initially for only 10 minutes, turn them, add the olives, then cook for an additional 10 minutes.

- 3 to 4 pounds a.s.sorted cut-up chicken chicken pieces pieces - 1 teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter b.u.t.ter - 3 plump garlic garlic cloves, peeled cloves, peeled - 2 bay leaves bay leaves, preferably fresh - 1 cup brine-cured green Italian olives brine-cured green Italian olives or or oil-cured black Italian olives oil-cured black Italian olives - cup white wine white wine RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A 12-inch cast-iron or other heavy skillet or saute pan, with a cover; an olive pitter Rinse the chicken pieces, and pat dry with paper towels. Trim off excess skin and all visible fat. Cut drumsticks off the thighs; cut breast halves into two pieces each. Season the chicken all over with the salt.

Put the olive oil and b.u.t.ter in the pan, and set over medium-low heat. When the b.u.t.ter is melted and hot, lay in the chicken pieces, skin side down, in a single layer; drop the garlic cloves and bay leaves in the s.p.a.ces between them.

Cover the pan, and let the chicken cook over gentle heat, browning slowly and releasing its fat and juices. After about 10 minutes, uncover the pan, turn the pieces, and move them around the pan to cook evenly, then replace the cover. Turn again in 10 minutes or so, and continue cooking covered.

While the chicken is browning, pit the olives (if they still have pits in them). If you're using small olives like Castelvetrano, use a pitter and keep them whole. If you have larger olives (such as Ascolane or Cerignola), smash them with the blade of a chef's knife to remove the pits, and break them into coa.r.s.e chunks.

After the chicken has cooked for 30 minutes, scatter the olives onto the pan bottom, around the chicken, and pour in the wine. Raise the heat so the liquid is bubbling, cover, and cook, gradually concentrating the juices, for about 5 minutes.

Remove the lid, and cook uncovered, evaporating the pan juices, occasionally turning the chicken pieces and olives. If there is a lot of fat in the bottom of the pan, tilt the skillet and spoon off the fat from one side.

Scatter the pine nuts around the chicken, and continue cooking uncovered, turning the chicken over gently until the pan juices thicken and coat the meat like a glaze.

Turn off the heat, and serve the chicken right from the skillet, or heap the pieces on a platter or in a shallow serving bowl. Spoon out any sauce and pine nuts left in the pan, and drizzle over the chicken.

MEATLOAF WITH R RICOTTA.

Polpettone di Manzo con Ricotta Serves 8 or more Serves 8 or more Most of you have made meatloaf on occasion; you may even have a family-favorite recipe that you make frequently. Well, I want to introduce you to the Marchegiano style of meatloaf, with ricotta added to the mix, which renders the loaf tender and tasty-not heavy and dense, as they so often are.

Another textural delight in this loaf are cubes of mozzarella, oozing and moist when the meatloaf is served hot and fresh from the oven. However, if you plan on having extra meatloaf to enjoy the next day-I think it is almost better that way-omit the mozzarella, because the cubes harden and won't melt again. In this case, use an additional cup of ricotta in the loaf mix.

- 1 cup milk milk - 3 cups day-old bread bread cubes, from a loaf of country bread cubes, from a loaf of country bread - 3 pounds ground beef beef (freshly ground preferred;) (freshly ground preferred;) - 3 large eggs eggs, beaten with a pinch of salt - 1 pound drained fresh ricotta fresh ricotta (about 2 cups), plus more for the sauce if you like (about 2 cups), plus more for the sauce if you like - 1 bunch scallions scallions, finely chopped (about 1 cup) - cup grated Grana Padano Grana Padano or or Parmigiano-Reggiano Parmigiano-Reggiano - cup chopped fresh Italian parsley fresh Italian parsley - teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg nutmeg - 1 tablespoon kosher salt kosher salt - Freshly ground black pepper black pepper to taste to taste - pound fresh mozzarella fresh mozzarella, cut in -inch cubes (about 2 cups) - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A st.u.r.dy roasting pan, 10 by 17 inches or larger Preheat oven to 375. Pour the milk over the bread cubes in a bowl, and let soak for a few minutes, until the bread is saturated.

Squeeze the soft bread a handful at a time, pressing out as much milk as you can (discard milk, or give it to a pet), then tear bread into small shreds and toss back into the bowl. Crumble the ground beef into the bowl, and add the eggs, ricotta, scallions, grated cheese, parsley, nutmeg, salt, and pepper. Fold and toss everything together, and squeeze the mixture a few times between your fingers to distribute all the ingredients evenly. Scatter the mozzarella cubes on top, and fold and mush them throughout the loaf mix.

Brush the roasting pan with 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Gather the meat mixture in the bowl, turn it into the pan, and shape it into a fat oval loaf. Drizzle with the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil. Cover the pan with foil-tent it so it doesn't touch the meat-and bake 45 minutes. Remove the foil, and continue to bake until the meatloaf is browned all over and completely cooked through, another 1 hour and 30 minutes or so. (If you check the loaf with a meat thermometer, it should reach a temperature of 160.) Remove the loaf from the oven, and let it rest for about 10 minutes.

Heat the tomato sauce to a simmer in a saucepan as the meat rests. Turn off the heat, and, if you like, stir cup or so fresh ricotta into the sauce. Cut the loaf crosswise in the pan or on a cutting board, in slices as thick as you like. Serve on warm dinner plates, topped with a spoonful or two of sauce, and pa.s.s more sauce at the table (or, for family-style serving, arrange the slices on a warm platter, topped with some of the sauce). To accompany this meatloaf, I love braised broccoli rabe (broccoli di rape) or escarole, served on a separate plate or platter.

LAMB C CHUNKS WITH O OLIVES.

Agnello 'ncip-'nciap Serves 6 or more Serves 6 or more This is one of those delicious dishes that are complex in taste but easy in preparation. In Le Marche it is made with lamb and Ascolane olives, because that is what the land provides, but it could be made with other green olives; black olives, such as taggiasche taggiasche or Gaeta, would be fine, too. As in the recipe for Chicken with Olives and Pine Nuts, the simple pan-cooking method used here is typical of Le Marche. Try preparing other meats, such as beef or pork, the same way-keeping in mind that the cooking time will vary-and the results will be excellent. And though lamb shoulder is delicious and economical, more expensive lamb would be extraordinary prepared in the same style. This dish is good any time of year, too. In the winter, serve it with polenta and braised bitter greens such as or Gaeta, would be fine, too. As in the recipe for Chicken with Olives and Pine Nuts, the simple pan-cooking method used here is typical of Le Marche. Try preparing other meats, such as beef or pork, the same way-keeping in mind that the cooking time will vary-and the results will be excellent. And though lamb shoulder is delicious and economical, more expensive lamb would be extraordinary prepared in the same style. This dish is good any time of year, too. In the winter, serve it with polenta and braised bitter greens such as broccoli di rape; broccoli di rape; in summer, a tossed green salad would go nicely. in summer, a tossed green salad would go nicely.

- 3 pounds boneless lamb shoulder lamb shoulder or or leg leg - 2 teaspoons kosher salt kosher salt - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 7 plump garlic garlic cloves, crushed and peeled cloves, crushed and peeled - teaspoon peperoncino flakes peperoncino flakes, or to taste - 2 tablespoons fresh rosemary fresh rosemary leaves, stripped from the branch leaves, stripped from the branch - 1 cup white wine white wine - 2 tablespoons red-wine vinegar red-wine vinegar RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A deep skillet or saute or braising pan, 11- or 12-inch diameter, with a cover Trim the exterior fat from the lamb shoulder or leg, and cut the meat into 2-inch pieces, removing fat and bits of cartilage as you find them. Pat the pieces dry with paper towels, and season all over with 1 teaspoon of the salt.

Pour the olive oil into the pan, and set it over medium heat. Scatter in the crushed garlic cloves and peperoncino. When the garlic is sizzling, lay in all the lamb pieces in one layer, scatter the rosemary on top, and season with the remaining teaspoon salt. When the meat starts to sizzle, cover the pan, lower the heat, and let it cook gently, browning slowly and releasing its fat and juices.

After about 10 minutes, uncover the pan, turn the pieces, and move them around the pan to cook evenly, then replace the cover. Turn again in 10 minutes or so, and continue covered cooking for another 10 to 15 minutes, until the lamb is nicely browned all over and the pan juices have thickened and caramelized. If there is a lot of fat in the bottom of the pan, tilt the skillet and spoon off the fat from one side.

Stir the wine and vinegar together, and pour them into the skillet, swirling them with the pan juices. Turn up the heat, bring the liquids to a boil, and cook them down quickly to form a syrupy sauce. Drop the olives into the pan, all around the lamb chunks, then cover and adjust the heat to a bubbling simmer. Cook for another 10 minutes or so, again concentrating the juices and marrying the flavors. Finally, cook uncovered for a few minutes, tumbling the meat and olives in the pan, coating them with the sauce.

Serve immediately, right from the skillet, or heap the meat chunks on a platter or in a shallow serving bowl. Spoon out any sauce and olives left in the pan, and drizzle over the lamb.

Alternating rows of young olive trees and blooming lavender in Le Marche STUFFED Q QUAIL IN P PARCHMENT.

Quaglie Incartate Serves 6 Serves 6 I love this dish, and you will, too-and your guests will be impressed. Set the table for a special eating experience, including a few scissors to pa.s.s around and a bowl for the parchment paper. Then pre-sent guests with closed, tempting packets: when they cut open the parchment, the sight and bursting aroma of savory-stuffed quail will fill them with antic.i.p.ation, and they will dive right in.

As an accompaniment, I would serve a bowl of hot polenta, farro, or wild rice, or a bowl of beans and black kale. Serve family-style, putting the bowl in the middle of the table, so everyone can spoon some onto the plate next to the quail.

- 12 semi-boneless quail quail (4 to 5 ounces each) (4 to 5 ounces each) - 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 1 tablespoon plus teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - 2 firm, tart apples apples, such as Granny Smith (about 1 pound) - cup fine dry bread crumbs bread crumbs - cup grated Grana Padano Grana Padano or or Parmigiano-Reggiano Parmigiano-Reggiano - 2 tablespoons toasted pine nuts pine nuts, coa.r.s.ely chopped - 1 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley fresh Italian parsley - tablespoon fresh thyme fresh thyme leaves, chopped leaves, chopped - 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice lemon juice - Freshly ground black pepper black pepper to taste to taste - cup apple cider apple cider, or as needed - A dozen fresh sage fresh sage leaves leaves RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: Wooden toothpicks; a dozen rectangular pieces of parchment paper, about 10 by 14 inches each; 2 large, rimmed baking sheets, such as half-sheet pans (12 by 18 inches) Preheat oven to 400, and arrange two racks in the center of the oven. Pluck off any pinfeathers that remain on the quail (and remove skewers, or other material that hold the quail in shape). Rinse each bird in cold water and pat dry. Put them all in a large bowl, and toss with 2 tablespoons olive oil and 2 teaspoons salt, so they're evenly coated.

Peel, cut in half, and core the apples, then shred the halves through the large shredding holes of a box grater. Squeeze handfuls of the apples over a bowl, to collect the juices, and put the squeezed-out shreds in another bowl. You should end up with about 2 cups apple shreds and cup or so juice.

Stir the apple, bread crumbs, grated cheese, pine nuts, parsley, and thyme together. Drizzle over this the lemon juice and 2 tablespoons olive oil; season with 1 teaspoon salt and several grinds of black pepper. Toss well, so the stuffing is evenly moistened and seasoned.

To stuff the quail: Set them, breast side up, on a cutting board. Spoon or push about 2 tablespoons of stuffing into each body cavity. Fold the quail's legs together neatly and compactly-like a lady crossing her legs-and stick a toothpick through the tendons to hold them together. Tuck the wings under the back, so they stay in place.

Pour in enough apple cider to the reserved juices to make 1 cup total, then stir in the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil and teaspoon salt.

Lay a cut piece of parchment in a shallow pasta or soup bowl, and set a bird in the middle of the paper, with the legs facing one long side of the paper. Top the quail with a sage leaf and a short branch of rosemary, and drizzle over it about 1 tablespoons of the seasoned juice. Pull the short edges of the parchment up over the quail, join them and fold them over an inch or so, so they hold together, and then fold over several more times, so the bird is enclosed with just a bit of s.p.a.ce around it. Now tuck the open ends of the folded paper underneath the quail, forming a neat, fully closed packet.

Place all the wrapped quail on the baking sheet, leaving at least 2 inches between them-you will probably need two sheets to hold them all. Set the sheets on the oven racks, and roast the quail about 25 minutes; then switch the sheets top to bottom and rotate them back to front, to ensure even cooking.

Roast another 20 minutes or so (45 minutes in all), until the juices are bubbling and the quail are tender and nicely browned. (To test for doneness, remove one packet from the oven and unwrap. If it has a good roasted color and the juices look like light maple syrup, it should be done. If too pale, rewrap, roast another 5 to 10 minutes, and check again.) Serve right away, placing two wrapped packets on each dinner plate, with scissors for cutting the parchment (and a bowl for the paper) on the table.

AMBROSIA OF W WHEAT B BERRIES, FRUIT & C & CHOCOLATE.

Dolce di Grano Makes about 8 cups, serving 8 to 12 Makes about 8 cups, serving 8 to 12 In the culinary world today, dishes with whole grains are "in," but they have always been part of Italian regional cuisine, even as desserts. Put together from whatever grains and nuts were in the house, and minimally sweetened with available fruit, traditional desserts like this wheat-berry ambrosia are among my favorites. In that spirit, this recipe can be a guideline for your own creativity.

This is a versatile and practical dessert, too. Prepare the mixture of wheat berries, dried fruit, and chocolate in advance, and refrigerate it. Let it return to room temperature before serving (though it is nice slightly chilled in summer). It's also great for a buffet with whipped cream or scoops of vanilla or chocolate ice cream on top.

- 1 cup wheat berries wheat berries (about 6 ounces), soaked overnight (about 6 ounces), soaked overnight - 1 fresh bay leaf bay leaf - 2 cups pitted and halved fresh sweet cherries sweet cherries - 1 cup dried apricots dried apricots, cut in thirds - cup pitted dried dates dried dates, coa.r.s.ely chopped - 4 ounces semisweet chocolate semisweet chocolate, cut in -inch chunks - 1 cup chopped toasted hazelnuts hazelnuts - teaspoon ground cinnamon cinnamon - cup honey honey - 2 tablespoons Saba Saba or or aceto balsamico tradizionale aceto balsamico tradizionale RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A 4-quart saucepan with a lid; balloon-shaped winegla.s.ses for serving Drain the soaked wheat berries, and put them in the saucepan with 3 quarts fresh cold water and the bay leaf. Bring to a boil, stirring occasionally, cover slightly ajar, and adjust the heat to maintain a steady simmer. Cook until the wheat berries are tender but still slightly firm to the bite, about 40 to 45 minutes. Drain off any liquid that has not been absorbed, discard the bay leaf, and let the wheat berries cool.

Put the wheat berries, cherries, apricots, dates, chocolate, and hazelnuts in a large bowl, and fold them together. Sprinkle the cinnamon over them, and drizzle the honey and Saba on top. Tumble the mixture together gently to distribute the spice and sweetening throughout.

To serve: Scoop to 1 cup of the grano grano mixture into each winegla.s.s. Top each with a dollop of whipped cream, and serve immediately. mixture into each winegla.s.s. Top each with a dollop of whipped cream, and serve immediately.

In URBINO URBINO you can visit one of Italy's finest palaces. It was built by Federico da Montefeltro, a true Renaissance man, under whose patronage architects and painters flourished. Inside, Piero della Fran-cesca's masterpiece, the you can visit one of Italy's finest palaces. It was built by Federico da Montefeltro, a true Renaissance man, under whose patronage architects and painters flourished. Inside, Piero della Fran-cesca's masterpiece, the Ideal City Ideal City, is a clear embodiment of the humanist thought supported at his court. The ideal city is depicted as absolutely still and flat, yet it is a complex reflection of geometry, perspective lines, and amazing detail. I love the Urbino Palace. Even the storage rooms and washrooms in the bas.e.m.e.nt are interesting. The greatest treasure of the Urbino Palace is Federico's study, with its richly colored woods inlaid on flat walls, creating a marvelous three-dimensional effect: cupboards open and scrolls tumble out; a gorgeous landscape lies beyond the windows.Children love to explore Italy's largest limestone caves at FRASa.s.sI FRASa.s.sI Caves. The caves are dramatically illuminated, and the main cave, the Grotto of the Wind, is so huge that the guide always proudly announces that the Cathedral of Milan would easily fit inside. My children enjoy the rickety bus ride to the entrance of the cave, the s.p.a.ceshiplike airlock doors that clang shut as you move forward, and the deep descent into the earth. Caves. The caves are dramatically illuminated, and the main cave, the Grotto of the Wind, is so huge that the guide always proudly announces that the Cathedral of Milan would easily fit inside. My children enjoy the rickety bus ride to the entrance of the cave, the s.p.a.ceshiplike airlock doors that clang shut as you move forward, and the deep descent into the earth.On a hill with a view past Porto Recanati to the sea is the quiet town of LORETO LORETO, one of the most revered sites in the Roman Catholic world. There, in the elaborate Basilica of Loreto, is the simple brick house where the Virgin Mary is reputed to have been born, brought here miraculously on angels' wings from Nazareth. The most beautiful Luca Signorelli frescoes, depicting religious scholars, the Evangelists, and Saint Paul, are in the church, each figure very lifelike, with an individual personality. Don't miss the sacristy on the other side, painted in the fifteenth century by Melozzo da Forli. It is a masterpiece in perspective.Leave the coast behind and head inland to visit some of the most picturesque castles in Italy. You can drive in a circle essentially from Senigallia and back, visiting the lovely brick castle of MONDAVIO, CORINALDO MONDAVIO, CORINALDO Castle with its gorgeous intact fortified walls, as well as the castle at Castle with its gorgeous intact fortified walls, as well as the castle at FRONTONE FRONTONE and the and the CASTELLONE DI SUASA. CASTELLONE DI SUASA. Along the way, you'll feel you are taking a trip back in time as the little town of Along the way, you'll feel you are taking a trip back in time as the little town of PALAZZO PALAZZO slowly unfolds up the hill. The fourteenth-century city gate and fortified walls make this tiny city a gem to visit. It takes only four minutes to walk from one side of the town to the other, but you will absorb centuries of Italian small-town tradition. Near Palazzo is slowly unfolds up the hill. The fourteenth-century city gate and fortified walls make this tiny city a gem to visit. It takes only four minutes to walk from one side of the town to the other, but you will absorb centuries of Italian small-town tradition. Near Palazzo is SAN SETTIMIO SAN SETTIMIO, where the hills have been transformed into a country vacation spot where you can ride horses, hunt, explore the land, and swim in a glorious pool that overlooks the Marche countryside. Each guest room is a small converted stone farmhouse, which you'll feel is your home away from home.-TANYA

Overleaf: Olive trees punctuate the Umbrian landscape.

IT COULD BE SAID THAT UMBRIA IS THE HEART OF ITALY. Geographically it is, lying smack in the middle of the peninsula, landlocked in the bosom of Italy. Overshadowed by its sibling, Tuscany, Umbria is like the timid child who has been hiding its beauty and its treasures. But now the world is listening and discovering the beauty of its undulating mountains, and its cities where art and music abound, particularly works from Etruscan and medieval times, as well as Renaissance art, rivaling what can be found in any city in Italy. Equally alluring is the cuisine, which reflects the generosity of the land. The intense aromas and flavors of the Norcino, considered the best black truffle in Italy, whether grated on top of Geographically it is, lying smack in the middle of the peninsula, landlocked in the bosom of Italy. Overshadowed by its sibling, Tuscany, Umbria is like the timid child who has been hiding its beauty and its treasures. But now the world is listening and discovering the beauty of its undulating mountains, and its cities where art and music abound, particularly works from Etruscan and medieval times, as well as Renaissance art, rivaling what can be found in any city in Italy. Equally alluring is the cuisine, which reflects the generosity of the land. The intense aromas and flavors of the Norcino, considered the best black truffle in Italy, whether grated on top of strangozzi strangozzi, a handmade chunky spaghetti, or made into a paste with b.u.t.ter and anchovies and spread on a crostino, make for an unforgettable eating experience. The best lentils in Italy-sweet, meaty, and flavorful-are the small ones from Castelluccio, a medieval town perched on top of a hill in the middle of a plain high in the Sibylline Mountains.

The Sibylline Mountains, since 1993 a national park, are part of the central Apennines, situated between Umbria and Le Marche. In Roman times, these mountains were the haunt of Sibyl, the enchantress who lured travelers to their doom. Today, the park is full of wildlife, but is most spectacular in June, with its extraordinary display of wildflowers. When I was visiting there in June 2006, I literally landed from the sky into this kaleidoscope of flowers. My friend Anselmi, an extraordinary producer of wine in the Veneto, had to go there himself to visit Marco Caprai, a fellow wine producer, and had offered to take me with him. The blades of the helicopter were humming before I could put on my jacket, and off we went. As we were approaching from the heavens, we could see Castelluccio firmly ensconced on the hill, while on the plain millions of flowers in every color of the spectrum were swaying in the breeze, and beautiful horses galloped through the pastures, their shining manes flowing in the wind. It seemed as if Sibyl might appear any minute to mount them.

The Apennine Mountains are also a great source of wild meats-boar, hare, pheasants, and others. The Umbrians are known for their skills as butchers, sausage-makers, and curers of meats, especially pork. As you travel through Italy, you may notice butcher shops called norcinerie norcinerie, meaning that they only handle pork meat.

But chicken is also appreciated in Umbria, especially when paired with ripe grapes in season, which was a serendipitous find for me on one of my visits to Gubbio with my son-in-law, Corrado Manuali, whose family hails from there.

Corrado's grandmother Giuseppina Radicchi and grandfather Giuseppe Manuali were born on two opposite hills surrounding Gubbio. They met in the winter of 1922, when Giuseppina was standing in the snow, her shoes in shreds, and Giuseppe noticed her shivering feet and fell in love. They married and had three children, one of them being Gianfranco, Corrado's father. Corrado always reminisces nostalgically about the summers he spent with Nonna Giuseppina in Gubbio when he and Giuseppe, the caretaker's son, would play on the funivia funivia, the tram that goes up to the top. Today, Giuseppe owns one of the best restaurants in Gubbio, La Fornace di Mastro Giorgio, where local specialties are featured.

One of my favorite eateries in all of Umbria-to which I make a pilgrimage almost every summer with Corrado, Tanya, and Lorenzo and Julia (their kids, my grandchildren)-is a bakerytrattoriatruck stop called Il Panaro, near Gubbio. We drive there for the torta al testo torta al testo (or (or crescia crescia, as it known locally), a freshly baked bread resembling focaccia, split and stuffed with a choice of savory fillings: prosciutto or sausages; or pecorino, ricotta, or stracchino; or meat and cheese together; or foraged seasonal greens, braised with garlic.

It is not just the delicious crescia crescia that draws me back to Il Panaro year after year. I love the setting, perched on a little hill, just off the highway, where you always see a line of parked trucks. Hidden behind trees is the wood-burning oven where the that draws me back to Il Panaro year after year. I love the setting, perched on a little hill, just off the highway, where you always see a line of parked trucks. Hidden behind trees is the wood-burning oven where the crescia crescia bakes, as well as the long wooden tables at which the truck drivers and other guests sit, waiting for their bakes, as well as the long wooden tables at which the truck drivers and other guests sit, waiting for their torte. torte. Being outside and basking in the Umbrian scenery, with the smell of the charcoal in the air and a light taste of ash on the tongue, I am filled with a wonderful sense of family and of the heritage of food from one generation to another. Being outside and basking in the Umbrian scenery, with the smell of the charcoal in the air and a light taste of ash on the tongue, I am filled with a wonderful sense of family and of the heritage of food from one generation to another.

Any direction you look in Umbria, your eyes are bound to fall on olive trees. The cultivation of the olive in Umbria goes back to the first century B.C. B.C. Today, it is a very important part of the regional economy, and Umbria produces some of the most prized olive oil in Italy. The climatic condition of this region allows the olives to mature slowly, so their flavor is intensified while the acidity is kept low. Today, it is a very important part of the regional economy, and Umbria produces some of the most prized olive oil in Italy. The climatic condition of this region allows the olives to mature slowly, so their flavor is intensified while the acidity is kept low.

Filled Focaccia-Torta al Testo Where there is olive oil there is wine, and Umbria has long been renowned for its white wine Orvieto, a crispy, easy-to-drink, food-friendly wine. But ever more red wine is taking center stage in Umbria these days, especially Torgiano Rosso and Sagrantino. The Lungarotti family has been producing wonderful wines for generations in Torgiano. Since Giorgio Lungarotti, the patriarch, pa.s.sed on, his two daughters, Teresa Severini and Chiara Lungarotti, run the company, while their creative mother, Maria Grazia, an art historian, is responsible for the wine-and-olive-oil museum at the Tre Vaselle, the family-run hospitality center.

The new visionary and revolutionary award-winning winemaker in Umbria today is Marco Caprai. In 1998, I went to Montefalco to visit Arnaldo Caprai, Marco's father. I heard that he had begun making wines, and I was especially interested in a new local variety that he was vinifying, Sagrantino. But as we talked over lunch, I felt his heart was more in the quality linen-and-lace business he ran. Not so his son Marco, who has all that it takes to make great wines, and is credited for producing consistently award-winning, world-cla.s.s wines from Umbria. It is now said that Marco Caprai is bigger than life, and Sagrantino is his revolutionary product.

LENTIL C CROSTINI.

Crostini con Lenticchie Serves 6 Serves 6 This savory, thick lentil spread is a great topping for a crostino, especially when made with tiny, firm lenticchie di Castelluccio lenticchie di Castelluccio, which give the mouth-feel of caviar. It can also serve as a fine side dish for any grilled meat, or as the base for risotto or soup. Then again, with the addition of crumbled sausage, it would make a great pasta sauce. So get creative: make a double batch of the lentil topping here, and have fun with all the leftovers.

- 1 cup small lentils lentils, preferably lenticchie di Castelluccio lenticchie di Castelluccio - 2 medium stalks celery celery, with leaves, finely chopped (about 1 cup) - 2 bay leaves bay leaves, preferably fresh - 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling - 2 plump garlic garlic cloves, peeled and sliced cloves, peeled and sliced - 1 cup chopped onion onion - teaspoon peperoncino flakes peperoncino flakes, or to taste - 2 cups canned Italian plum tomatoes plum tomatoes, preferably San Marzano, crushed by hand - 2 teaspoons kosher salt kosher salt RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A heavy-bottomed saucepan, 3-to-4-quart capacity, with a cover; a large heavy skillet or saute pan Rinse the lentils, and put them in the saucepan with the celery, bay leaves, and 3 cups cold water. Bring to a boil, cover the pan, and adjust the heat to maintain a gentle, steady simmer. Cook until the lentils are almost tender, about 20 minutes (or longer, depending on size).

Meanwhile, pour 4 tablespoons of the olive oil into the skillet, and set it over medium heat. Stir in the garlic and onion, and cook for 5 minutes or more, until the onion is soft and glistening. Drop the peperoncino into a hot spot in the pan, and let it toast for a minute, then stir in the crushed tomatoes, season with 1 teaspoon salt, and bring the sauce to a simmer. Let it bubble gently about 5 minutes, until slightly thickened.

When the lentils are just slightly undercooked, pour into their pan all the tomato sauce from the skillet, and stir into the lentils. Return the sauce to the simmer, and cook, partially covered, until the lentils are fully cooked and tender, about 10 minutes. Remove the cover, stir in the remaining teaspoon salt, and let the lentils cook slowly, stirring frequently, until they're very thick and starting to fall apart, another 10 minutes or so. Remove the pan from the heat, and stir in the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil.

I prefer the lentils hot or warm as a crostini topping or contorno contorno, but they are very good at room temperature, too. For crostini, grill or toast the bread slices, spoon a mound of lentils on each crostino, and drizzle on a bit of fine olive oil.

Clockwise from the left: Lentil Crostini-Crostini con Lenticchie; Filled Focaccia Filled Focaccia-Torta al Testo; Crostini with Black Truffle b.u.t.ter Crostini with Black Truffle b.u.t.ter-Crostini con Burro e Tartufi CROSTINI WITH B BLACK T TRUFFLE B b.u.t.tER.