To make the pardulas: pardulas: Cut the rested dough in half. On a lightly floured surface, roll each piece out to a rectangular sheet about 12 by 16 inches-the dough should be about inch thick. To mark twelve circles, press the cookie cutter lightly on the sheet of dough but do not cut through it. Break each provolone slice into three or four pieces, and arrange them, overlapping, to fit inside one of the traced circles, leaving s.p.a.ce around the edges. (If the cheese slices are large or thick, or weigh an ounce or more, don't try to fit them all inside the dough circle. Each Cut the rested dough in half. On a lightly floured surface, roll each piece out to a rectangular sheet about 12 by 16 inches-the dough should be about inch thick. To mark twelve circles, press the cookie cutter lightly on the sheet of dough but do not cut through it. Break each provolone slice into three or four pieces, and arrange them, overlapping, to fit inside one of the traced circles, leaving s.p.a.ce around the edges. (If the cheese slices are large or thick, or weigh an ounce or more, don't try to fit them all inside the dough circle. Each pardula pardula should have about ounce cheese.) should have about ounce cheese.) Roll the other half of the dough to roughly the same size as the first. Pick it up and drape it over the bottom dough, covering all the rounds of sliced cheese. Gently press the top sheet around the cheese layers so the edges are distinct. Dip the cookie cutter in flour, center it over one portion of cheese, and cut through both layers of dough, to the work surface, cutting out one pardula. pardula. Cut all of them the same way, then pull away the excess dough between them. Pinch the edges of each Cut all of them the same way, then pull away the excess dough between them. Pinch the edges of each pardula pardula, sealing the cheese inside.

Pour vegetable oil into the big skillet to a depth of inch, and set it over medium heat. Let the oil heat gradually until a piece of dough starts to sizzle when dipped in (without darkening immediately). Carefully slide as many of the pardulas pardulas into the pan as fit comfortably, with some s.p.a.ce between them. Fry until crisp and golden, about 2 to 3 minutes per side. If the cheese begins to leak out during frying, flip the into the pan as fit comfortably, with some s.p.a.ce between them. Fry until crisp and golden, about 2 to 3 minutes per side. If the cheese begins to leak out during frying, flip the pardulas pardulas to their other side. Drain the to their other side. Drain the pardulas pardulas on paper towels, and keep them warm in a low oven. on paper towels, and keep them warm in a low oven.

Serve as soon as possible, while the pardulas pardulas are crispy and hot and the cheese is molten (with honey drizzled on top, if you like). are crispy and hot and the cheese is molten (with honey drizzled on top, if you like).

FLATBREAD L LASAGNA.

Pane Frattau Serves 4 Serves 4 Pane frattau is a traditional dish of Sardinian shepherds, made from is a traditional dish of Sardinian shepherds, made from pane carasau pane carasau, the thin, long-keeping flatbreads that were a staple food during the shepherds' extended sojourns in mountain pastures. Some clever shepherd discovered long ago, I imagine, that he could turn the dry bread into a fast, warm meal by soaking and layering it with hot tomato sauce and cheese, lasagna-style.

Now considered a cla.s.sic of Sardinian cooking, pane frattau pane frattau is a dish that I love to make at home. No baking is required, and everything can be heated on the stovetop (quicker than a shepherd's campfire, I am sure) and quickly a.s.sembled. With a perfectly poached or fried egg as the crowning touch, it makes a beautiful brunch or supper dish, belying its peasant origins. is a dish that I love to make at home. No baking is required, and everything can be heated on the stovetop (quicker than a shepherd's campfire, I am sure) and quickly a.s.sembled. With a perfectly poached or fried egg as the crowning touch, it makes a beautiful brunch or supper dish, belying its peasant origins.

Regard this recipe as a guideline. Though the listed ingredient amounts serve four, you can multiply them to serve a crowd or divide them to make pane frattau pane frattau for two-or just for yourself. I recommend my Tomato Sauce, but any basic tomato sauce of your choice would be fine, too. And though I prefer poached eggs to top the for two-or just for yourself. I recommend my Tomato Sauce, but any basic tomato sauce of your choice would be fine, too. And though I prefer poached eggs to top the pane frattau pane frattau, a fried egg, sunny side up, would be just as authentic and satisfying. Either way, just be sure to cook the eggs at the last minute and serve the dish right away. I also suggest that you try layering pane frattau pane frattau as is rather than water-soaked as is rather than water-soaked pane carasau. pane carasau. It is great that way, too! It is great that way, too!

- 4 (or more) rounds pane carasau pane carasau - 3 to 4 cups Tomato Sauce Tomato Sauce - 4 large eggs eggs - 2 tablespoons distilled white vinegar distilled white vinegar, or as needed - 1 to 2 cups freshly grated pecorino pecorino (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, for a milder flavor) (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, for a milder flavor) RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A tray or baking sheet lined with paper towels; a wide skillet, saute pan, or shallow saucepan for poaching the eggs; four gratin dishes or shallow bowls for individual servings Break each sheet of pane carasau pane carasau into three or four pieces-just small enough to fit in the individual serving dishes. Fill a large bowl with hot water, and drop in a batch of broken bread pieces. Let them soak for a few seconds, so all are moistened, then remove and spread them on the paper-towel-lined tray. The pieces should still be somewhat firm; don't let them get soggy. Moisten the rest of the into three or four pieces-just small enough to fit in the individual serving dishes. Fill a large bowl with hot water, and drop in a batch of broken bread pieces. Let them soak for a few seconds, so all are moistened, then remove and spread them on the paper-towel-lined tray. The pieces should still be somewhat firm; don't let them get soggy. Moisten the rest of the pane carasau pane carasau the same way. the same way.

Heat the tomato sauce to a gentle simmer in a small saucepan, and keep it hot.

Get ready for poaching the eggs: Pour water in the skillet to a depth of 2 inches, and add the vinegar (1 tablespoon per quart of water). Gradually heat to a simmer.

a.s.semble the individual dishes of pane frattau pane frattau just before cooking the eggs: Spread 3 to 4 tablespoons of sauce in the bottom of each dish or bowl, and sprinkle over each a tablespoon of grated cheese. Cover the sauce and cheese with a layer of moist just before cooking the eggs: Spread 3 to 4 tablespoons of sauce in the bottom of each dish or bowl, and sprinkle over each a tablespoon of grated cheese. Cover the sauce and cheese with a layer of moist pane carasau pane carasau pieces (keep in mind that you'll need three such layers in each dish, or twelve portions of bread). Spoon another 3 to 4 tablespoons sauce on top of the flatbread, and sprinkle over it another spoonful of cheese. Now repeat this layering twice more-bread, sauce, cheese; bread, sauce, cheese-using more or less of each to taste. pieces (keep in mind that you'll need three such layers in each dish, or twelve portions of bread). Spoon another 3 to 4 tablespoons sauce on top of the flatbread, and sprinkle over it another spoonful of cheese. Now repeat this layering twice more-bread, sauce, cheese; bread, sauce, cheese-using more or less of each to taste.

Poach the eggs at the last minute: One at a time, break them into a small ramekin or cup, and gently slide each one into the simmering water. Cook the eggs 2 to 3 minutes for a firm white and still-runny yolk (or longer if you like). Lift each egg out with a slotted spoon, drain for a moment on paper towels, and lay it atop a dish of pane frattau. pane frattau. Give each egg a final dusting with cheese, and serve immediately. Give each egg a final dusting with cheese, and serve immediately.

CAULIFLOWER WITH O OLIVES & C & CHERRY T TOMATOES.

Cavolfiori alle Olive Serves 6 Serves 6 I love cauliflower, but I know not everyone shares my pa.s.sion for this nutritious but sometimes bland vegetable. This recipe shows that the right cooking method and complementary ingredients can make a cauliflower dish that can steal the show.

As is my way with most vegetables, I skillet-cook the cauliflower-slowly sauteing it with little or no added moisture. That way, more of the essential vegetable flavor is retained and intensified, adding layers of caramelization. Here, too, the companion vegetables enhance the cauliflower, with olives lending earthy complexity, and cherry tomatoes giving acidity and freshness. This can be made in advance and reheated. And if you happen to have some left over, it can be the base for a great risotto, or for dressing a plate of pasta for two.

- 1 large cauliflower cauliflower (about 2 pounds) (about 2 pounds) - 1 medium onion onion - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 4 plump garlic garlic cloves, crushed and peeled cloves, crushed and peeled - 2 teaspoons kosher salt kosher salt - teaspoon peperoncino flakes peperoncino flakes, or to taste - 1 cups cherry tomatoes cherry tomatoes - cup pitted black Italian olives black Italian olives, such as Gaeta or taggiasca taggiasca RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or larger, with a tight-fitting cover Tear off the tough outer leaves at the base of the cauliflower, and cut out the tough core. Cut the branches into small florets (about 1 inch), and cut any small tender leaves into pieces. Peel the onion and, without tr.i.m.m.i.n.g away the root end, slice it into eight thin wedges. The onion layers should still be attached at the root end, so each wedge remains intact.

Pour the olive oil into the skillet, set it over medium heat, and toss in the garlic cloves. When they start to sizzle, strew the cauliflower over the pan bottom, and drop in the onion pieces here and there. Season with the salt and peperoncino, reduce the heat to medium-low, and cover the pan. Let the vegetables cook without stirring for 20 minutes or so, softening in their own juices, until the florets and wedges begin to take on color on the bottom. If the pieces are soft but not caramelizing, uncover the pan, raise the heat a bit, and cook a few minutes longer.

When the vegetable pieces are caramelized on one side, gently tumble them over. Scatter the cherry tomatoes and olives in the pan, stir gently to distribute them, then cover and cook until the tomatoes release their juices, about 5 minutes.

Finally, remove the cover, raise the heat, and bring the pan juices to a boil. Cook until the juices are syrupy and the vegetables are caramelized all over, another 5 to 10 minutes. Heap on a platter or in a ca.s.serole dish; serve warm or at room temperature.

GALLURESE B BREAD & C & CABBAGE S SOUP.

Zuppa Gallurese Serves 6 to 8 Serves 6 to 8 Gallura is the traditional name for the northeastern corner of Sardinia, across from Corsica, and the region's distinctive dialect and delicious dishes are termed Gallurese. Here is a most unusual rendition of zuppa Gallurese. zuppa Gallurese. Surprisingly, it comes in the form of a ca.s.serole, with layers of bread, Savoy cabbage, provolone, and pecorino, drenched in chicken stock and baked. The end result is an amazing dish that has the comforting character of a soup and the cheesy lusciousness of a lasagna or Surprisingly, it comes in the form of a ca.s.serole, with layers of bread, Savoy cabbage, provolone, and pecorino, drenched in chicken stock and baked. The end result is an amazing dish that has the comforting character of a soup and the cheesy lusciousness of a lasagna or pasticciata. pasticciata. I know you will find it delightful. I know you will find it delightful.

- A dozen or so slices whole-wheat country bread whole-wheat country bread, cut inch thick, from a round or oval loaf - A small head Savoy cabbage Savoy cabbage (about 1 pounds) (about 1 pounds) - teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 1-pound chunk mild provolone mild provolone (not aged), preferably imported from Italy (not aged), preferably imported from Italy - 1 tablespoon soft b.u.t.ter b.u.t.ter for the baking dish for the baking dish - cup freshly grated pecorino pecorino (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, for a milder flavor) (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, for a milder flavor) - 4 cups Chicken Stock Chicken Stock RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A rimmed baking sheet; a large pot or saucepan, 6-quart capacity; a 3-quart baking dish or oval gratin dish; heavy aluminum foil Arrange a rack in the middle of the oven, and heat it to 400. Trim the crusts from the bread slices, lay them flat on the baking sheet, and put the sheet in the oven as it heats. Toast the slices, turning them over once, until lightly browned on the edges. Remove and let cool, leaving the oven on.

Meanwhile, bring 4 or 5 quarts lightly salted water to the boil in the big pot. Slice the cabbage head in half, and cut out the core completely, so the leaves can separate. Discard all tough and torn outer leaves, lay the cabbage halves cut side down, and slice crosswise into 1-inch strips. Drop the cabbage strips into the water, return to the boil, and cook until tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Pour the strips in a colander, rinse under cool water, and let drain. Put them in a bowl, sprinkle them with the salt and olive oil, and toss well.

Slice the chunk of provolone into slabs, about inch thick. b.u.t.ter the sides and bottom of the baking dish.

To a.s.semble the ca.s.serole: Cover the bottom of the baking dish with a layer of bread slices, tr.i.m.m.i.n.g the pieces as needed to fit snugly and fill any gaps. Spread half of the seasoned cabbage strips in a layer over the bread. Lay all of the provolone slabs on top of the cabbage, evenly distributed in a single layer. Sprinkle on half of the grated cheese. Next, spread the remaining cabbage out in an even layer, and top that with the remaining bread in another snugly fitted layer.

If the final layer of the bread rises over the baking dish, press down gently with your palm to compress the layers a bit, making room for the stock. Slowly pour the stock all over the bread and down the insides of the pan, so everything is moistened. Sprinkle the rest of the grated cheese over the top.

Carefully tent the dish with a sheet of heavy aluminum foil, arching it so it doesn't touch the food surface, and pressing it against the sides. Set the dish on the baking sheet, and place in the oven. Bake the ca.s.serole for about 45 minutes, until the juices are bubbling actively, and remove the foil. Continue baking for 20 minutes or more, until the top of the ca.s.serole is golden brown all over.

Serve the soup steaming hot. Set the baking dish on a trivet, cut portions with a knife, and lift them out with a wide spatula or serving spoon into warm shallow bowls. Scoop up any remaining liquid with a spoon and pour it over the portions.

BAKED E EGGPLANTI know from years as a restaurateur that just about everyone, even the meat-and-potato type, loves eggplant parmigiana parmigiana, hot from the oven, stuffed with molten cheese. I love that Italian-American cla.s.sic, too, but there are many more great eggplant dishes I've encountered in my travels through Italy, which I want to share with you.

In Sardinia, I was delighted to find a tradition of baked eggplant dishes, with ingredients, tastes, and textures that I knew would appeal to Americans. Here are two-I couldn't choose between them, so I decided to give you both. They have tomato: fresh tomatoes in one, savory tomato sauce in the other. They have cheese: grated pecorino topping on one, a vein of young pecorino (or mozzarella) chunks in the other. Best of all, they have thick layers of tender yet meaty eggplant. And in these preparations, the eggplant slices don't need frying (as in most eggplant parmigiana parmigiana recipes), which saturates them with more olive oil than necessary. No frying and great flavor-I love these and am sure you will, too. recipes), which saturates them with more olive oil than necessary. No frying and great flavor-I love these and am sure you will, too.

These are practical dishes as well. Best served hot, they are both also excellent at room temperature. And you can prepare either in advance, baking it three-quarters of the way to start, then finishing it when your guests arrive. Leftovers, if you have any, are a treat. A baked-eggplant sandwich is one of my favorites!

BAKED E EGGPLANT WITH O ONIONS & F & FRESH T TOMATOES.

Melanzane al Forno Serves 6 to 8 Serves 6 to 8 - 2 pounds small firm eggplants eggplants, preferably 6 to 8 ounces each - 1 tablespoons plus teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - 1 pounds ripe plum tomatoes plum tomatoes - 1 pound young pecorino young pecorino or or low-moisture mozzarella low-moisture mozzarella, cut in -inch cubes - cup fresh basil fresh basil leaves, loosely packed to measure, chopped leaves, loosely packed to measure, chopped - teaspoon peperoncino flakes peperoncino flakes, or to taste - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 2 large onions onions (about 1 pounds), peeled, sliced in -inch rounds (about 1 pounds), peeled, sliced in -inch rounds - 6 plump garlic garlic cloves, crushed and peeled cloves, crushed and peeled - FOR THE BREAD CRUMB TOPPING - 1 cup dry bread crumbs bread crumbs - 1 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley fresh Italian parsley - 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme fresh thyme - teaspoon dried oregano dried oregano - cup freshly grated pecorino pecorino (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, for a milder flavor) (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, for a milder flavor) - Grated zest of a small lemon lemon (about 1 teaspoon) (about 1 teaspoon) - 2 pinches kosher salt kosher salt - 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - Fresh basil leaves, shredded, for serving (optional) leaves, shredded, for serving (optional) RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A large colander; a 4-quart baking dish, 10 by 15 inches, or other shallow ca.s.serole of similar size; heavy aluminum foil; a baking sheet Trim the stem and bottom ends of each eggplant and, with a vegetable peeler, shave off ribbons of skin lengthwise, creating a zebra-striped pattern all around. Slice the eggplants crosswise into -inch-thick rounds. Lightly salt the slices on both sides, using about a tablespoon in all, and layer them in the colander, set in a bowl or the sink. Invert a dinner plate over the piled slices, and weight it with cans or other heavy objects, to press out the vegetable liquid. Let the rounds drain for 30 minutes to an hour, then rinse them, and pat dry with paper towels.

Meanwhile, arrange a rack in the middle of the oven and heat to 400.

Trim the stem end of the plum tomatoes, and cut them in half crosswise. Squeeze the halves over a strainer set in a bowl, sc.r.a.ping out and catching the seeds in the strainer and collecting the tomato juices in the bowl. Cut the tomatoes into -inch chunks, put them all in a bowl, and toss with the cubes of cheese, chopped basil, peperoncino, the remaining teaspoon salt, and 4 tablespoons of the olive oil.

Brush the bottom and sides of the baking dish with about 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Lay the onion rounds in the bottom in one layer, with the garlic cloves scattered among them, and drizzle over them the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil. Lay the eggplant slices over the onions in an even layer, overlapping a bit if necessary. Scatter the tomato and cheese chunks evenly on top of the eggplant, and drizzle the collected tomato juices all over.

Put the bread crumbs and all the dry seasonings in a bowl, toss to blend, then drizzle over them the 2 tablespoons olive oil, and toss well, until the crumbs are evenly moistened. Sprinkle them evenly over the top of the eggplant, tomato, and cheese layer.

Tent the baking dish with a sheet of heavy aluminum foil, arching it so it doesn't touch the crumb topping, and pressing it against the sides. Set the dish on the baking sheet, place in the oven, and bake for 45 minutes, until the juices are bubbling actively. Remove the foil, and continue baking for another 30 minutes or so, until the eggplant is lightly caramelized on the edges but tender and easily pierced with the tip of a knife, and the bread-crumb topping is browned and crisp.

Let the eggplant rest for 20 minutes before serving (it will absorb the sauce, and the cheese will settle a bit, too). Serve as you would lasagna, cutting portions with a knife and lifting them out with a wide spatula into warm shallow bowls. If you like, sprinkle shredded fresh basil over each portion.

Anna Rosa Fancello of Oliena makes the best pane carasau. pane carasau.

BAKED E EGGPLANT IN T TOMATO S SAUCE.

Melanzane in Teglia Serves 6 Serves 6 - 2 pounds small firm eggplants eggplants, preferably 6 to 8 ounces each - 1 tablespoon kosher salt kosher salt - 2 cups Marinara Sauce Marinara Sauce, Tomato Sauce Tomato Sauce, or other light flavorful tomato sauce - cup pitted oil-cured black olives oil-cured black olives - 4 Tuscan-style pickled peperoncini pickled peperoncini, drained, stemmed, and thinly sliced (about cup) - 2 tablespoons small capers capers, drained - 2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil fresh basil leaves leaves - 1 cup freshly grated pecorino pecorino (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, for a milder flavor) (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, for a milder flavor) RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A large colander; a 3-quart baking dish, 9 by 13 inches, or other shallow ca.s.serole of similar size; heavy aluminum foil; a baking dish Trim the stem and bottom ends of each eggplant and, with a vegetable peeler, shave off ribbons of skin lengthwise, creating a zebra-striped pattern all around. Slice the eggplants crosswise into -inch-thick rounds. Lightly salt the slices on both sides, using about a tablespoon in all, and layer them in the colander, set in a bowl or the sink. Invert a dinner plate over the piled slices, and weight it with cans or other heavy objects, to press out the vegetable liquid. Let the rounds drain for 30 minutes to an hour, then rinse them, and pat dry with paper towels.

Meanwhile, arrange a rack in the middle of the oven, and heat to 400.

Put the tomato sauce in a bowl, and stir in the olives, sliced peperoncini, capers, and basil. Spread about cup of the sauce over the bottom of the baking dish. Lay in half the eggplant slices in a single layer, overlapping a bit if necessary. Drop spoonfuls of tomato sauce, another cup total, on top of the eggplant layer, and sprinkle over it half the grated cheese. Lay in the remaining eggplant rounds in an even layer, spoon and spread the remaining sauce over them, and scatter the rest of the cheese all over the top.

Tent the baking dish with a sheet of heavy aluminum foil, arching it so it doesn't touch the crumb topping, and pressing it against the sides. Set the dish on the baking sheet, place in the oven, and bake for 45 minutes, until the juices are bubbling actively. Remove the foil, and continue baking for another 15 minutes or so, until the cheese topping is golden brown and the eggplant is caramelized on the edges yet tender and easily pierced with the tip of a knife.

Let the eggplant rest for 20 minutes (to absorb the sauce). Cut portions with a knife, and lift them out with a wide spatula into warm shallow bowls.

MALLOREDDUSMalloreddus is a traditional Sardinian pasta or gnocco (dumpling) made from semolina dough imbued with saffron. Like potato gnocchi, is a traditional Sardinian pasta or gnocco (dumpling) made from semolina dough imbued with saffron. Like potato gnocchi, malloreddus malloreddus are shaped by quickly rolling small bits of dough against a hard, patterned surface (a fork for potato gnocchi and a perforated grater for are shaped by quickly rolling small bits of dough against a hard, patterned surface (a fork for potato gnocchi and a perforated grater for malloreddus malloreddus). This flicking motion creates a short oval sh.e.l.l with a hollow inside and a textured outer surface, perfect for picking up a dressing or sauce. And the hard wheat dough gives each piece a wonderful chewy texture. In short, malloreddus malloreddus is a little pasta with a big mouth-feel. is a little pasta with a big mouth-feel.

HOMEMADE M MALLOREDDUS.

Makes 2 pounds, serving 8 or more This recipe makes a large batch of malloreddus malloreddus, enough to serve eight. You don't need to cook it all, because it freezes easily and keeps well. Malloreddus Malloreddus can be dressed simply with b.u.t.ter and grated cheese or almost any sauce you like. My favorite version, though, is the first one I ever had, in Porto Cervo many years ago: can be dressed simply with b.u.t.ter and grated cheese or almost any sauce you like. My favorite version, though, is the first one I ever had, in Porto Cervo many years ago: malloreddus malloreddus with sausage and tomato sauce (recipe follows). with sausage and tomato sauce (recipe follows).

- 1 teaspoon saffron saffron threads threads - 1 pounds semolina flour semolina flour, plus more for working the dough RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A food processor fitted with the metal blade; a grater with fine holes, with a large bottom opening; floured trays or baking sheets Drop the saffron threads into cup of hot water in a spouted measuring cup, and let steep 5 minutes or longer. Pour in cup cold water (so you have 1 cups total).

Put the flour in the bowl of the food processor, and start the processor running. Pour in almost almost all of the saffron water through the feed tube (the threads can go in, too), reserving a couple of tablespoons. Process for 30 to 40 seconds, until a dough forms and gathers on the blade and cleans the sides of the bowl. If the dough is too sticky, add another tablespoon or two of flour. If it is too dry, add the remaining water. Process another 10 to 20 seconds. all of the saffron water through the feed tube (the threads can go in, too), reserving a couple of tablespoons. Process for 30 to 40 seconds, until a dough forms and gathers on the blade and cleans the sides of the bowl. If the dough is too sticky, add another tablespoon or two of flour. If it is too dry, add the remaining water. Process another 10 to 20 seconds.

Turn the dough out on a lightly floured surface, and knead by hand for a minute, until it's smooth, soft, and stretchy. Press it into a disk, wrap well in plastic wrap, and let rest at room temperature for at least hour. (Refrigerate the dough for up to a day, or freeze for a month or more. Defrost in the refrigerator, and return to room temperature before rolling.) Cut the dough into eight pieces; work with one at a time, and keep the others covered with a towel or plastic wrap. Roll the dough under your hands on a clean work surface, first forming a smooth log and gradually stretching it into a long rope inch thick. With a dough sc.r.a.per or knife, chop the rope into -inch-long segments, like tiny cylinders; separate and lightly dust them with flour.

To form malloreddus: malloreddus: Hold the grater-shredder at an angle against the work surface, turned so the back side or underside is exposed: You want this smooth surface of perforated holes to mark the pasta, not the rough surface of sharp edges and burrs that you would use for grating. (If you are using a box grater, you want the inside of the finest grating-shredding face; you'll need to reach it through the bottom of the box.) Hold the grater-shredder at an angle against the work surface, turned so the back side or underside is exposed: You want this smooth surface of perforated holes to mark the pasta, not the rough surface of sharp edges and burrs that you would use for grating. (If you are using a box grater, you want the inside of the finest grating-shredding face; you'll need to reach it through the bottom of the box.) Pick up one small piece of dough, and place it on the grater face. Press into it with your lightly floured thumb, and quickly push down and away-rolling it against the holes and flicking it off the grater in one movement. It's just like rolling gnocchi against the tines of a fork (and similar to plucking a guitar string). Roll all the cut segments into malloreddus malloreddus, dust them with flour, and scatter them on a lightly floured tray, not touching.

Repeat with the remaining pieces of dough. When all the pasta is formed, you can leave the malloreddus malloreddus at room temperature until you are ready to cook. Or freeze them solid on the trays, and pack them airtight in plastic bags. at room temperature until you are ready to cook. Or freeze them solid on the trays, and pack them airtight in plastic bags.

MALLOREDDUS WITH S SAUSAGE-TOMATO S SAUCE.

Malloreddus con Sugo di Salsiccia e Pomodoro Makes 2 quarts, enough for 2 batches of Makes 2 quarts, enough for 2 batches of malloreddus malloreddus or dried pasta; a single batch of homemade or dried pasta; a single batch of homemade malloreddus malloreddus dressed with sauce Serves 8 dressed with sauce Serves 8 This is a great sauce, almost a universal pasta dressing, but particularly suitable for malloreddus. malloreddus. Because it is so good and useful, I make it in large batches and pack it in small portions for freezing. There are times when I want to make some pasta for two (or sometimes just for me), and there's nothing better than having a small container of tomato-sausage sauce on hand to dress it. Because it is so good and useful, I make it in large batches and pack it in small portions for freezing. There are times when I want to make some pasta for two (or sometimes just for me), and there's nothing better than having a small container of tomato-sausage sauce on hand to dress it.

- FOR THE SAUCE (A DOUBLE BATCH) - 1 pounds sweet Italian sausage sweet Italian sausage - 1 cup white wine white wine - 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for finishing the pasta - 2 cups chopped onions chopped onions - 1 plump garlic garlic clove, peeled and sliced clove, peeled and sliced - teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt, plus more for the pasta pot - teaspoon peperoncino flakes peperoncino flakes, or to taste - 6 cups (two 28-ounce cans) Italian plum tomatoes plum tomatoes, preferably San Marzano, crushed by hand - 1 branch fresh basil fresh basil with lots of leaves with lots of leaves - FOR COOKING AND FINISHING THE PASTA (A SINGLE BATCH) - 1 batch (2 pounds) Malloreddus Malloreddus - 1 cup freshly grated pecorino pecorino (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, for a milder flavor), plus more for pa.s.sing (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, for a milder flavor), plus more for pa.s.sing - 1 cup freshly grated pecorino pecorino (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, for a milder flavor), plus more for pa.s.sing (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, for a milder flavor), plus more for pa.s.sing RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A heavy-bottomed, high-sided skillet or saute pan, 14-inch diameter, with a cover; a large pot for cooking the pasta Remove the sausage casings, and crumble the meat into a large bowl. Pour over it cup of the wine, and mix this in with your fingers, breaking up any big meat clumps, so the sausage is evenly moistened.

Pour the olive oil into the big skillet, and set it over medium heat. Stir in the onions, and cook until they begin to soften, about 5 minutes; scatter the sliced garlic in the pan, and season with the salt and peperincino. When everything is sizzling, crumble in the sausage, and stir with the onions. Pour in the remaining cup wine, raise the heat a bit, and cook, stirring, as the wine cooks away and the sausage becomes all browned, about 10 minutes.

Pour in the tomatoes and a cup of water (which you've used to slosh and rinse the tomato cans and bowl). Submerge the basil branch in the liquid, cover the skillet, and bring to a boil. Set the cover ajar, adjust the heat to keep the sauce bubbling steadily, and cook for an hour or more, until the sauce has developed good flavor and reduced to the consistency you like for dressing pasta. Remove and discard basil branch. You can use some of the sauce right away-you'll need half of it to dress a batch of malloreddus malloreddus-or let it cool, then refrigerate or freeze for later use.

For cooking and dressing the pasta: Bring a large pot of well-salted water (at least 7 quarts water with 1 tablespoons kosher salt) to a rolling boil. Heat half the sausage-tomato sauce, about 4 cups, to a bare simmer in a wide skillet or saute pan (if you've just made the sauce, use the same pan). If the sauce has cooled and thickened, loosen it with some of the pasta water.

Shake the malloreddus malloreddus in a colander or strainer to remove excess flour, and drop all of it into the pot, stirring to keep the pieces from clumping together. Cover the pot, and rapidly return the water to a rolling boil, stirring once or twice, then cook the in a colander or strainer to remove excess flour, and drop all of it into the pot, stirring to keep the pieces from clumping together. Cover the pot, and rapidly return the water to a rolling boil, stirring once or twice, then cook the malloreddus malloreddus, partly covered, until barely al dente al dente, 5 to 6 minutes.

Lift out the pasta in big bunches with a spider, drain for a moment, and spill them into the simmering sauce. Over low heat, toss the malloreddus malloreddus and sauce together for a minute or two, until all are coated and perfectly and sauce together for a minute or two, until all are coated and perfectly al dente. al dente. (Thin the sauce, if necessary, with hot pasta water, or thicken it quickly over higher heat.) (Thin the sauce, if necessary, with hot pasta water, or thicken it quickly over higher heat.) Turn off the heat, and sprinkle the grated cheese over the malloreddus malloreddus and toss well. Finish with a drizzle of olive oil, toss again, and heap the pasta in warm bowls. Serve immediately, pa.s.sing more cheese at the table. and toss well. Finish with a drizzle of olive oil, toss again, and heap the pasta in warm bowls. Serve immediately, pa.s.sing more cheese at the table.

FREGOLAThis little jewel of a pasta is made entirely by hand, no machines needed. As the recipe teaches you, the process is simple-all you do is shake, shake, shake-and if you have kids, they will take to it naturally. They (and you) will delight in the accomplishment, especially when you enjoy your fregola fregola in all sorts of dishes. My method will give you a small amount of in all sorts of dishes. My method will give you a small amount of very very tiny pasta b.a.l.l.s, which are a wonderful treat in a bowl of soup. The main batch of slightly larger tiny pasta b.a.l.l.s, which are a wonderful treat in a bowl of soup. The main batch of slightly larger fregola fregola can be cooked, then sauced, like any other pasta, or served plain as an accompaniment to braised meats or stews, to soak up the sauce. Or use them in the delicious Baked can be cooked, then sauced, like any other pasta, or served plain as an accompaniment to braised meats or stews, to soak up the sauce. Or use them in the delicious Baked Fregola Fregola Ca.s.serole recipe that follows. Ca.s.serole recipe that follows.

Fregola keep well either in the cupboard, sealed in a jar or ziplock bag, or frozen. So make plenty in advance, and keep them on hand as a versatile homemade pantry staple. keep well either in the cupboard, sealed in a jar or ziplock bag, or frozen. So make plenty in advance, and keep them on hand as a versatile homemade pantry staple.

HANDMADE P PASTA P PEARLS.

Fregola Makes about 8 ounces large Makes about 8 ounces large fregola fregola, serving 6 as a side dish or 4 in a baked ca.s.serole, plus a small amount of tiny fregola fregola for garnishing soup for garnishing soup - 2 cups semolina flour semolina flour RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: 3 large, rimmed baking sheets; parchment paper; a fine-mesh wire strainer or sieve, about 8 inches wide; a large medium-mesh wire strainer or sieve, about 8 inches wide; a small wire-mesh skimmer, or a large spoon Spread the semolina flour in an even layer on one of the baking sheets, and line the other two with parchment paper.

Pour cup of water in a cup or bowl; dip your fingers into the water, and rapidly shake them all over the semolina, moistening the flour with small droplets of water. Keep dipping and shaking until you've used up half the water in the bowl (2 tablespoons), then shake the sheet pan, congealing the wettest flour into small bits and b.a.l.l.s of dough, or fregola. fregola.

Now dip into and shake out the rest of the water in the bowl, directing it over the dry flour on the tray. Shake the baking sheet again to form more fregola fregola (there will still be a good deal of dry flour remaining as well). (there will still be a good deal of dry flour remaining as well).

Place the medium-mesh strainer on top of the fine-mesh strainer, and hold them with one hand over the semolina tray. With the small wire skimmer (or a spoon) in your other hand, scoop up the fregola fregola that have formed, shaking off excess flour, and spill them into the nested strainers. Shake to separate and sift the that have formed, shaking off excess flour, and spill them into the nested strainers. Shake to separate and sift the fregola: fregola: the large the large fregola fregola will remain in the medium strainer; the smaller will remain in the medium strainer; the smaller fregola fregola will fall into the fine strainer; and excess flour will land back on the tray. will fall into the fine strainer; and excess flour will land back on the tray.

Spill the large fregola fregola onto one of the parchment-lined pans and the smaller onto one of the parchment-lined pans and the smaller fregola fregola onto the other. If any onto the other. If any fregola fregola are larger than inch or so, pinch or cut into smaller pieces. are larger than inch or so, pinch or cut into smaller pieces.

Now put another cup of water into the bowl, and repeat the procedure of dipping, dripping, and shaking water over the semolina. Periodically, shake the sheet to form more fregola fregola, lift them out, then sift and separate them. Continue until almost all of the flour has been transformed into fregola. fregola. You will have used to 1 cup water in all. You will have used to 1 cup water in all.

Meanwhile, arrange two racks in the center part of the oven, and heat it to 325. When all the fregola fregola are formed, and spread on pans according to size, place the pans in the oven. Toast the pasta, shaking the pans once or twice, until the are formed, and spread on pans according to size, place the pans in the oven. Toast the pasta, shaking the pans once or twice, until the fregola fregola harden, about 10 minutes for the small ones and about 20 minutes for the larger. Let them cool on the sheet pans; pack into jars or plastic bags, and store in the cupboard or freezer. harden, about 10 minutes for the small ones and about 20 minutes for the larger. Let them cool on the sheet pans; pack into jars or plastic bags, and store in the cupboard or freezer.

BAKED F FREGOLA C Ca.s.sEROLE.

Fregula Stufada Serves 6 as a first course or 8 as a side dish Serves 6 as a first course or 8 as a side dish This tasty and easy ca.s.serole is a wonderful way to enjoy homemade fregola fregola and makes a great accompaniment to braised chicken or veal. If I have not convinced you to make your own, use packaged dried and makes a great accompaniment to braised chicken or veal. If I have not convinced you to make your own, use packaged dried fregola fregola, available at specialty stores or online. Commercial fregola fregola is usually a bit larger than the homemade, so follow the package guidelines for cooking the pasta is usually a bit larger than the homemade, so follow the package guidelines for cooking the pasta al dente. al dente.

- 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for the baking dish - 1 cup chopped onion onion - 4 ounces pancetta pancetta, cut in -inch dice (about 1 cup) - 1 pint cherry tomatoes cherry tomatoes - 2 bay leaves bay leaves, preferably fresh - 2 teaspoons kosher salt kosher salt - teaspoon peperoncino flakes peperoncino flakes, or to taste - 8 ounces (about 2 cups) homemade Fregola Fregola (preceding recipe) (preceding recipe) - cup freshly grated pecorino pecorino (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano) (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano) RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or larger, with a cover; a pot for cooking the fregola; fregola; a 3-quart baking dish, 9 by 13 inches, or shallow ca.s.serole of similar size a 3-quart baking dish, 9 by 13 inches, or shallow ca.s.serole of similar size Pour the olive oil into the skillet, and set it over medium-high heat. Stir in the onion, and cook, stirring occasionally, until it begins to soften, about 2 to 3 minutes. Scatter the diced pancetta in the pan, and let it cook and render its fat, stirring occasionally, until it starts to brown, 3 or 4 minutes.

Drop in the cherry tomatoes and bay leaves, season with teaspoon salt and peperoncino, and pour in cup water. Cover the skillet, bring the water to a simmer, then set the cover slightly ajar and cook just until the water evaporates and the tomatoes pop open and release their juices, about 10 minutes. (If the pan dries before the tomatoes pop, add another cup water.) Turn off the heat; remove and discard the bay leaves.

Meanwhile, heat 4 quarts of water with 2 teaspoons salt to a rolling boil in the pasta pot. Stir in the fregola fregola, and cook until al dente al dente, about 8 minutes. Empty the pot into a colander or large strainer to catch the fregola. fregola. Spill them into the skillet, and stir the pasta, tomatoes, and pancetta together until thoroughly blended. Spill them into the skillet, and stir the pasta, tomatoes, and pancetta together until thoroughly blended.

Heat the oven to 400, and brush the bottom and sides of the baking dish with olive oil. Pour all the sauced fregola fregola into the dish, and spread in an even layer. Sprinkle the grated cheese over the top, and set the dish in the oven. Bake, uncovered, 20 to 25 minutes, until the top is golden brown and crisp on the edges. into the dish, and spread in an even layer. Sprinkle the grated cheese over the top, and set the dish in the oven. Bake, uncovered, 20 to 25 minutes, until the top is golden brown and crisp on the edges.

Serve piping hot. Spoon the fregola fregola into warm bowls as an appetizer, or, to serve family-style, put the baking dish on the table. into warm bowls as an appetizer, or, to serve family-style, put the baking dish on the table.

"The Eagle"-a granite rock formation on the grounds of the Pedra Majore winery SPAGHETTI WITH C COLD T TOMATO-MINT S SAUCE.

Spaghetti al Sugo Freddo Serves 6 Serves 6 Our friend Franco Azzara made this memorable pasta dish for us during a recent visit to his home in the Gallura region of Sardinia. I marveled at how quickly he put it together, and at the complex flavor of the raw sauce-just fresh tomatoes, basil and mint, and other savory seasonings, whipped up in a food processor, no cooking necessary. I thank him for sharing this Azzara family recipe, one that I know you will enjoy both for its ease and convenience and for its brilliant flavors.

- FOR THE SAUCE - 12 ounces ripe cherry tomatoes cherry tomatoes, about 2 cups - cup loosely packed fresh basil fresh basil leaves leaves - cup loosely packed fresh mint fresh mint leaves leaves - cup pine nuts pine nuts, lightly toasted - 2 small anchovy fillets anchovy fillets, finely chopped (2 teaspoons) - 1 plump garlic garlic clove, crushed and peeled clove, crushed and peeled - teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - teaspoon peperoncino flakes peperoncino flakes, or to taste - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - cup small capers capers, drained - FOR THE PASTA - 1 pound spaghetti spaghetti - 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley fresh parsley - 1 cup freshly grated pecorino pecorino (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, for a milder flavor), plus more for pa.s.sing (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, for a milder flavor), plus more for pa.s.sing RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A large pot for cooking the pasta; a food processor; a large, deep serving bowl Fill the big pot with salted water (at least 6 quarts with a tablespoon kosher salt), and heat to a rolling boil.

To make the sauce: Rinse the cherry tomatoes, basil, and mint leaves, and pat dry. Put them all in the food-processor bowl along with the pine nuts, anchovies, garlic, salt, and peperoncino. Process until pureed, sc.r.a.ping down the work bowl as needed. With the machine running, pour in the olive oil in a slow, steady stream, forming a thick, emulsified sauce. If serving now, sc.r.a.pe the sauce into a warmed deep serving bowl, and stir in the whole capers.

When the pasta water is boiling, drop in the spaghetti, stirring and separating the strands. Cover the pot, return the water to a boil over high heat, then set the cover ajar, and cook the pasta until al dente. al dente. While the pasta cooks, ladle some of the boiling water into the serving bowl to warm it. Sc.r.a.pe in the sauce, and stir in the capers. While the pasta cooks, ladle some of the boiling water into the serving bowl to warm it. Sc.r.a.pe in the sauce, and stir in the capers.

Lift the spaghetti from the pot, let drain for a moment, drop it into the bowl, and toss well, until all the strands are coated with sauce. Sprinkle over it the parsley and grated cheese, and toss again. Serve immediately, pa.s.sing more grated cheese at the table.

LOBSTER S SALAD WITH F FRESH T TOMATOES.

Aragosta alla Catalana Serves 6 as an appetizer salad or 4 as a main-course salad Serves 6 as an appetizer salad or 4 as a main-course salad Throughout history, Sardinia has been a territorial prize for the great powers of the Mediterranean Basin, and every period of dominion has left its mark on the island. One of the most distinctive influences-both cultural and culinary-was the 400-year rule of imperial Spain, from the early 1300s to the early 1700s. Today, in Alghero, on the west coast of Sardinia, residents still speak a form of the Catalan language. And the spiny lobster that abounds in the waters off Alghero is prepared alla Catalana alla Catalana-cooked, chopped into large pieces, and tossed into a salad.

In Sardinia, it is expected that you will grab a chunk of lobster from the salad with your fingers and dig into the sh.e.l.ls with gusto. Here at home, I do the same thing with our great Atlantic lobsters, which are certainly as good as if not better than their Mediterranean cousins. I prepare them alla Catalana alla Catalana and serve them Sardinian-style, with lots of moist napkins and bowls for the sh.e.l.ls, encouraging everybody to dig in. and serve them Sardinian-style, with lots of moist napkins and bowls for the sh.e.l.ls, encouraging everybody to dig in.

- 1 teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt, plus 6 tablespoons for the lobster pot - 2 live lobsters lobsters, 1 pounds each - 3 or 4 ripe fresh tomatoes fresh tomatoes (about 1 pounds), or 1 pound sweet, ripe cherry tomatoes (about 1 pounds), or 1 pound sweet, ripe cherry tomatoes - 2 or 3 tender stalks celery celery with a nice amount of leaves with a nice amount of leaves - Juice of 2 large lemons lemons, freshly squeezed (about cup) - 2 large hard-cooked eggs eggs, peeled and chopped - teaspoon peperoncino flakes peperoncino flakes, or to taste - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley fresh Italian parsley RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A large pot, 8-quart capacity or larger, for cooking the lobster; a sharp, heavy chef's knife; moist napkins and bowls for the lobster sh.e.l.ls, on the table Fill the pot with 6 quarts water, add 6 tablespoons salt, and bring to a rolling boil. When the water is at a rolling boil, drop in the lobsters and start timing: cook them, uncovered, for 10 minutes total, after the water returns to the boiling point (and then keep it boiling). At the end of 10 minutes (or a couple of minutes longer if the lobsters are larger than 1 pounds), lift the lobsters from the pot, rinse with cold water, drain, and let them cool.

Core the tomatoes, and cut them into wedges, about 1 inch thick; if you have cherry tomatoes, cut them in half. Chop the celery stalks crosswise into 1-inch pieces, and chop the leaves roughly. Toss tomatoes and celery together in a large bowl with teaspoon of the salt.

When the lobsters are cool enough to handle, twist and pull off the claws and knuckle segments where the knuckles attach to the front of the body. Lay the clawless lobsters flat on a cutting board, and split them in half lengthwise, from head to tail, with the heavy chef's knife. Separate the meaty tail piece from the carca.s.s (or body) of the four split halves.

Now cut the lobster into pieces of whatever size you like; put the pieces in a large mixing bowl as you work. Separate the knuckles from the claws, and crack open the sh.e.l.ls of both knuckles and hard claw pincers with the thick edge of the knife blade, or kitchen shears, exposing the meat. Chop the knuckles into pieces at the joints.

Cut the tail pieces crosswise into chunks, or leave them whole, which I prefer. Cut the carca.s.s pieces crosswise in two, with the legs still attached (though you can cut the legs off). I like to leave the tomalley and roe in the body pieces, as a special treat while eating the salad. Alternatively, remove tomalley and roe and whisk them into the dressing (or remove them and discard, if not to your liking).

To make the dressing: Whisk together the lemon juice, chopped eggs, peperoncino, and remaining teaspoon salt. Pour in the olive oil in a slow stream, whisking steadily to incorporate it into a smooth dressing.

To serve: Add the tomatoes and celery to the bowl of lobster pieces. Pour in the dressing, and tumble everything together until evenly coated. Scatter the parsley on top, tumbling to distribute. Arrange the salad on a large platter, or compose individual servings on salad plates.

ROAST L LOBSTER WITH B BREAD C CRUMB T TOPPING.

Aragosta Arrosta Serves 6 Serves 6 This terrific lobster preparation reminds me of a dish that was popular on the menus of Italian-American restaurants when I first came to the United States. Lobster oreganata, as the dish was called, was a split lobster topped with bread crumbs, seasoned with dry oregano, and baked. On recent visits to the Sardinian coast, I've often had its prized spiny lobsters prepared in quite similar fashion. So, though I am pleased to bring you this recipe for authentic Sardinian aragosta arrosta aragosta arrosta (roast lobster), I am quite sure that Italian-American restaurants and immigrants had the same idea many years ago. (roast lobster), I am quite sure that Italian-American restaurants and immigrants had the same idea many years ago.

As with the preceding Aragosta alla Catalana Aragosta alla Catalana, I like this dinner to be a hands-on, fully absorbing experience. After my guests have salad or a vegetable appetizer, I give everyone a half-lobster without the distraction of side dishes, furnishing guests with plenty of wet towels and bowls for empty sh.e.l.ls. Then we all just concentrate on getting every morsel of meat out of these amazing crustaceans.

- 3 live lobsters lobsters, about 1 pounds each - 1 cup dry bread crumbs bread crumbs - 2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley fresh Italian parsley - teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - cup plus 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 2 cups dry white wine dry white wine - Lemon wedges for garnishing wedges for garnishing RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A half-sheet pan (12 by 18 inches) or other large, rimmed baking sheet; heavy aluminum foil; moist napkins and bowls for the lobster sh.e.l.ls, on the table About hour before you plan to cut up the lobsters, put them in the freezer. They will become inactive as their temperature drops (but don't let them freeze).

Arrange a rack in the center of the oven, and heat it to 400.