This short period of moist cooking doesn't draw the meat juices into the liquid (as it would in long stewing or braising) but instead brings the seasoning flavors more intensely into the meat itself. Here, lemon, olives, and oregano give the chops the tangy taste of Abruzzo. For a great winter meal, accompany them with something cozy, like polenta, mashed potatoes, or smothered cabbage or cauliflower. In summer, a tossed green salad is all you need.

Either rib chops or loin chops are suited for this recipe, though my choice is the loin chop, which offers portions of both the loin and the tenderloin muscles (like a T-bone steak). You could use lamb shoulder chops, too, but they'd need nearly twice as much time to cook covered. They wouldn't be as amazingly tender as loin or rib chops, but they would be delicious (and cost a lot less). With any kind of chop, a heavy cast-iron pan is perfect here, because of its steady heat-retaining qualities, but it must be well seasoned, so the meaty caramelization is not lost on the pan bottom.

- 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 6 bone-in lamb loin chops bone-in lamb loin chops, about 1 inches thick (about 5 ounces each, trimmed of fat) - 1 teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - cup all-purpose flour all-purpose flour - 4 plump garlic garlic cloves, crushed and peeled cloves, crushed and peeled - Juice of 1 lemon lemon (about 2 tablespoons) (about 2 tablespoons) - 1 cup pitted black olives black olives, preferably taggiasca taggiasca or Gaeta or Gaeta - 1 teaspoon dried oregano dried oregano - teaspoon peperoncino flakes peperoncino flakes, or to taste RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A large well-seasoned cast-iron frying pan or other heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan, preferably 12-inch diameter, with a cover Pour the olive oil into the cast-iron skillet, and set over medium-low flame to heat slowly. Salt the chops lightly all over, using teaspoon salt in all. Spread the flour on a plate, dredge the chops on both sides, and shake off excess flour.

When the pan and oil are hot, lay in the chops-they should all fit snugly in one layer. Let them cook gently for 3 minutes or longer, until lightly browned on the first side, then flip them over and brown the second side gradually. As they cook, drop the crushed garlic cloves in the s.p.a.ces between them, to sizzle and caramelize in the pan bottom-turn the cloves as they darken (and don't let them burn). Turn the chops again a couple of times, giving both sides another 2 or 3 minutes of browning, until well browned all over-about 10 minutes in all.

Pour the lemon juice and cup water into the pan, around the chops, and sprinkle the remaining salt over them. When the liquid is bubbling, drop the olives in between the chops, and shake the pan to distribute them. Sprinkle the oregano and peperoncino over the olives, then cover the pan.

Adjust the heat to keep the juices bubbling gently and slowly concentrating. Cook, covered, turning the chops a couple of times, until the pan juices have thickened and adhere to the meat like a moist glaze-about 10 minutes or longer, depending on thickness.

Remove the pan from the heat, and let the chops rest for a couple of minutes, taking in the moisture. Serve right from the skillet, with the olives and pan juices spooned over the chops.

A shepherd and his flock in the hills of Abruzzo BRAISED L LEG OF L LAMB.

Ragu d'Agnello Serves 8 or more Serves 8 or more Slowly braised meats are a specialty of cooks in the high country of Abruzzo. With a fire always burning in the hearth or on a stove, it makes sense to keep a pot stewing. And from the ubiquitous flocks of sheep there's always some mutton or lamb that will benefit from long cooking. Here's a typically tasty example: a leg of lamb, bone removed, laid open in a flat slab (what we call "b.u.t.terflied"), then slathered with a savory bread filling, rolled and tied up, and cooked for hours in a savory tomato sauce.

This is a great dish for a festive occasion, because a big leg will easily serve eight or more. To savor it Italian-style, I encourage you to present this in two courses, using the sauce to dress maccheroni alla chitarra maccheroni alla chitarra or other pasta for a or other pasta for a primo primo (first course), and serving the sliced lamb leg as the main course. Mashed potatoes and braised broccoli or chicory would be excellent accompaniments to the meat. (first course), and serving the sliced lamb leg as the main course. Mashed potatoes and braised broccoli or chicory would be excellent accompaniments to the meat.

Keep the recipe procedure in mind when purchasing boneless leg of lamb. You want a leg that's been b.u.t.terflied but preferably left untied. However, do ask the butcher for a length of the netting, or meat stocking, that slips over a rolled leg to hold it in shape; this will come in handy once the meat is stuffed and ready to cook. If the butcher is accommodating, specify that you want the leg b.u.t.terflied to lie flat with an even thickness, so you can coat the meat generously with the bread seasoning and roll it up neatly. Should you end up with meat that is too thick in places, you can flatten it yourself with a meat mallet, or by b.u.t.terflying, that is, sliding a knife into the thick muscle and opening it up.

- 2 cups crustless country bread country bread cubes, a couple of days old or slightly dried cubes, a couple of days old or slightly dried - 1 cup grated pecorino pecorino - 3 plump garlic garlic cloves, peeled and chopped cloves, peeled and chopped - 4 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley fresh Italian parsley - A 5-to-6-pound boneless leg of lamb leg of lamb, preferably b.u.t.terflied and untied - 1 tablespoon kosher salt kosher salt, plus more to taste - 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 2 cups chopped onions onions - 4 bay leaves bay leaves, preferably fresh - 3 small branches fresh rosemary fresh rosemary with lots of leaves with lots of leaves - 3 sprigs fresh thyme fresh thyme - 6 cups (two 28-ounce cans) canned Italian plum tomatoes plum tomatoes, preferably San Marzano, crushed by hand RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A heavy 7- or 8-quart saucepan or enameled cast-iron French oven, with a cover; kitchen twine and butcher's netting To make the filling: Put the bread cubes in a mixing bowl, and pour in enough water to cover them. Toss the cubes in the water, and let them soak it up for a few minutes. When they're saturated, dump the cubes into a strainer (along with any water remaining in the bowl), and squeeze the bread to get out most of the water. Put the soft, wet bread back in the bowl, tearing it into shreds with your fingers. Scatter the grated cheese, chopped garlic, and parsley over the bread, and stir everything together vigorously (or work together with your hands) into a spreadable paste.

Lay out the b.u.t.terflied lamb leg, and trim any thick fat from the outside surface (a few traces are okay). If the boneless leg was rolled and tied by the butcher, cut away the strings or netting, then unroll it and trim any thick fat. Turn the meat over so the inside of the leg (where the bone was) faces up, and arrange it to form a flat, solid oblong slab. If necessary, pound or b.u.t.terfly thick muscles so the meat slab is evenly thick.

Drop mounds of the bread paste on the lamb, and spread it to cover the whole surface, leaving a margin around the edges (so it won't ooze out). Now roll up the meat to form a snug, loaf-shaped roll. Loop short pieces of twine around the roll every few inches along its length, to keep it in shape, and knot securely. Press and tuck in the flaps of meat at the ends of the roll, and secure them with twine looped lengthwise around the roll and tied tight. If you have butcher's netting, slip it over the rolled meat, and stretch first, then tie it securely. Season the outside of the tied roll with 1 teaspoons salt.

Pour the olive oil into the big pan, and set over medium-high heat. Lay the meat in the hot oil, and let it sizzle for a minute or two without moving, until browned on the bottom. Rotate the roll, and brown more of the meat surface for a couple of minutes, then rotate again, until the lamb leg is nicely caramelized all over.

Push the meat to the side of the pan, clearing as much s.p.a.ce in the middle as possible, and spill in the chopped onions. Stir and spread them in the pan as they start to sizzle, sc.r.a.ping up the bits of caramelization from the pan bottom; shift the lamb to stir the onions all around. After 4 or 5 minutes, when the onions have softened, drop in the bay leaves, rosemary, and thyme, and stir for another minute, to toast the herbs.

Move the meat to the center of the pan, and pour the crushed tomatoes around it. Slosh out the tomato bowl and cans with 2 cups water, and pour that in, along with more water if needed, until three-quarters of the rolled lamb is submerged in the liquids. Sprinkle the remaining 1 teaspoons salt all over, and stir the tomatoes, water, onions, and seasonings together. Cover the pan, and bring the braising liquids to a boil over high heat, then adjust the flame to keep a steady, gentle bubbling around the lamb. Cook, tightly covered, checking the liquid level occasionally to see that it is not cooking too fast or reducing rapidly. Every 40 minutes or so, rotate the meat so the top of the roll gets submerged, and add water, if needed, to maintain the level of braising liquids. Reduce until the liquid covers three-quarters of the lamb.

Cook the lamb for 2 to 2 hours, or until a long fork can pierce the thickest part of the leg and slide out easily. If the sauce is concentrated and velvety, the dish is done; turn off the heat, and let the leg rest in the sauce for 30 minutes or longer before serving.

If the meat is tender but the sauce is too thin, transfer the meat to a platter (in a warm place) and cook the sauce uncovered, reducing it to a velvety consistency. If you want to dress pasta with the sauce, however, don't let it get too thick. Turn off the heat, and replace the lamb in the sauce to rest.

After the rest period, remove the lamb leg and finish the sauce: Pick out the herb stems and bay leaves, skim off any fat that has collected on the top, and taste and adjust the seasoning. Serve the sauce as is, or pa.s.s it through a food mill if you want it to be smoother (and to remove the rosemary leaves).

To serve the lamb: Cut and remove the twine or netting. Slice the leg crosswise into -inch-thick slices, and arrange them, fanned out or overlapping, on a warm platter. Moisten the slices with spoonfuls of warm sauce, and pa.s.s more sauce at the table.

This braised lamb also makes an excellent primo primo (pasta course). To serve as a (pasta course). To serve as a primo: primo: Put 2 cups of sauce (for each pound of pasta) into a big skillet, and heat to a simmer while the pasta cooks. Drop the drained Put 2 cups of sauce (for each pound of pasta) into a big skillet, and heat to a simmer while the pasta cooks. Drop the drained al dente al dente pasta into the sauce, and toss until coated, then shut off the heat, and toss with grated pecorino or Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano. Serve immediately in warm bowls. pasta into the sauce, and toss until coated, then shut off the heat, and toss with grated pecorino or Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano. Serve immediately in warm bowls.

To cook the lamb a few hours or even a day in advance, let it cool in the sauce and refrigerate overnight. To serve, slice the meat while it's cool. Put a shallow layer of sauce in a wide skillet, and lay in the lamb slices. Slowly heat the sauce to bubbling, spooning it over the meat until heated through. Arrange the slices on a platter.

SCRIPPELLE R RIBBONS WITH A APRICOT-ORANGE S SAUCE.

Fiocchi di Scrippelle all'Arancio Serves 6 or more Serves 6 or more This special dessert is so good-and so much fun to prepare and serve-I hope you'll be persuaded to make and keep scrippelle scrippelle (c.r.a.pes) on hand all the time, as they do in the kitchens of Abruzzo. Here, you slice the (c.r.a.pes) on hand all the time, as they do in the kitchens of Abruzzo. Here, you slice the scrippelle scrippelle into strips (they look like fresh fettuccine!) and toss them in a hot caramel, apricot, and citrus sauce that you've got bubbling in a skillet. Serve the beautifully glazed ribbons still warm, with whipped cream melting on top. into strips (they look like fresh fettuccine!) and toss them in a hot caramel, apricot, and citrus sauce that you've got bubbling in a skillet. Serve the beautifully glazed ribbons still warm, with whipped cream melting on top.

This recipe calls for a full batch of the thin pancakes (the same ones used for the savory Crespelle Crespelle with Spinach), but it is easy to adjust the amounts to make a larger or smaller dessert. Even if you have only a couple of extra with Spinach), but it is easy to adjust the amounts to make a larger or smaller dessert. Even if you have only a couple of extra scrippelle scrippelle in your freezer, you can still transform them, with this basic technique, into a treat for two. in your freezer, you can still transform them, with this basic technique, into a treat for two.

Let your creativity loose: Just like pasta, scrippelle scrippelle ribbons can be dressed for dessert in countless ways. Add rum or liqueur to this caramel sauce, or vary it with other fruit preserves or juices. Shape the ribbons into a little nest for a scoop of ice cream. Or drizzle melted chocolate over the warm ribbons, sprinkle with chopped toasted hazelnuts, and top with a dollop of whipped cream. ribbons can be dressed for dessert in countless ways. Add rum or liqueur to this caramel sauce, or vary it with other fruit preserves or juices. Shape the ribbons into a little nest for a scoop of ice cream. Or drizzle melted chocolate over the warm ribbons, sprinkle with chopped toasted hazelnuts, and top with a dollop of whipped cream.

- 1 batch scrippelle scrippelle (about a dozen), cooked and cooled (about a dozen), cooked and cooled - 1 cup sugar sugar - 2 tablespoons soft b.u.t.ter b.u.t.ter - 1 cup apricot preserves apricot preserves - Juice of 1 lemon lemon, freshly squeezed (about 2 tablespoons) - Juice of 1 orange orange, freshly squeezed (about cup) - 1 cup chilled heavy cream heavy cream, whipped to soft peaks, for garnish - cup pine nuts pine nuts, toasted, for garnish RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A heavy-bottomed nonstick skillet or saute pan, 10-inch diameter or wider To make the ribbons: Stack three or four cooled scrippelle scrippelle evenly, and roll them up into a cylinder, about the size of a cigar. With a sharp knife, slice the roll crosswise every inch (for thin strips like tagliatelle) or every inch (for wider strips, like fettuccine). Separate and unfurl the cut pieces into ribbons. Continue to slice up all the evenly, and roll them up into a cylinder, about the size of a cigar. With a sharp knife, slice the roll crosswise every inch (for thin strips like tagliatelle) or every inch (for wider strips, like fettuccine). Separate and unfurl the cut pieces into ribbons. Continue to slice up all the scrippelle scrippelle this way. this way.

Put the sugar in the skillet, pour cup water over it, and shake the pan a bit to spread out the moistened sugar. Set the skillet over medium-high heat, and, without stirring, let the sugar dissolve into a syrup and come to a boil. Don't stir or shake the pan as it bubbles away, evaporating all the water, and nearing the temperature of caramelization-this can take 10 minutes or more. Have the remaining sauce ingredients (b.u.t.ter, apricot preserves, and citrus juices) near at hand, as well as a long wooden spoon for stirring, and thick kitchen towels for holding the pan.

When the syrup bubbles become noticeably thicker, watch closely for it to take on color, usually near the edge of the skillet. At the first signs of darkening, lower the heat and swirl the syrup, so it caramelizes evenly to a deep-golden color. Still over low heat, drop in the b.u.t.ter and the apricot preserves, and stir steadily as they melt into the caramel. Pour in the lemon and orange juices, stirring carefully, because the caramel will bubble and splatter.

Raise the heat, and bring the sauce back to a boil, stirring steadily. Adjust the heat to keep it at a simmer, and drop in the scrippelle scrippelle ribbons. Toss and tumble the strips with tongs or long-handled utensils, for a minute or more, until they're heated through and glazed all over with the caramel sauce. ribbons. Toss and tumble the strips with tongs or long-handled utensils, for a minute or more, until they're heated through and glazed all over with the caramel sauce.

Turn off the heat, lift out one serving of ribbons, and drop it onto a dessert plate-giving the ribbons a twist as you release them to make a pretty nestlike mound. Top each serving with a big spoonful of whipped cream and a scattering of pine nuts. Drizzle any sauce left in the skillet over and around the ribbons, and serve right away.

When I am hiking in the ABRUZZO ABRUZZO national parks, three places I enjoy most are Santo Stefano di Sessanio, Castel del Monte, and Rocca Calascio. Santo Stefano di Sessanio is a town of stark gray stone. The 2009 earthquake caused some damage, but the industrious Abruzzese people are hard at work repairing it. Castel del Monte is a small national parks, three places I enjoy most are Santo Stefano di Sessanio, Castel del Monte, and Rocca Calascio. Santo Stefano di Sessanio is a town of stark gray stone. The 2009 earthquake caused some damage, but the industrious Abruzzese people are hard at work repairing it. Castel del Monte is a small borgo borgo with a wonderful Baroque church, Madonna del Suffragio, in which the statue of the Madonna wears clothing typical of the area. The ancient fortress atop Rocca Calascio is filled now only with overgrown vegetation, but at the greatest elevation in central Italy-about fifteen hundred meters-it still stands like a crumbling giant on high. with a wonderful Baroque church, Madonna del Suffragio, in which the statue of the Madonna wears clothing typical of the area. The ancient fortress atop Rocca Calascio is filled now only with overgrown vegetation, but at the greatest elevation in central Italy-about fifteen hundred meters-it still stands like a crumbling giant on high.If you're a lover of sweets, it's worth making a stop at the town of SULMONA SULMONA, famous for its candy-coated almonds known as confetti. confetti. The sugar-coated almonds were first made by the Clarisse nuns, who lived in the nearby convent of the Church of Santa Chiara. About fifty-four different types of The sugar-coated almonds were first made by the Clarisse nuns, who lived in the nearby convent of the Church of Santa Chiara. About fifty-four different types of confetti confetti are made, varying from simple sugar-coated, to chocolate-filled, to are made, varying from simple sugar-coated, to chocolate-filled, to confetti confetti dipped in gold. My favorite shop is Hansel & Gretel, where the dipped in gold. My favorite shop is Hansel & Gretel, where the confetti confetti displays are set out as floral arrangements. Be sure to take some home with you! displays are set out as floral arrangements. Be sure to take some home with you!After each saffron harvest, the women of Abruzzo set aside a pouch of saffron and then visit the goldsmith in SCANNO SCANNO to barter the saffron for a new piece of jewelry. The town is revered for its gold-filigree work, which is like delicate lace executed in gold. The symbolic jewel of this tradition, the to barter the saffron for a new piece of jewelry. The town is revered for its gold-filigree work, which is like delicate lace executed in gold. The symbolic jewel of this tradition, the presentosa presentosa, is a pendant in the shape of a star with one or two central hearts surrounded by little spirals of filigree.BOMINACO is not far from the crocus fields of the Navelli plateau, and you can enjoy frescoes inside the oratory of San Pellegrino. Here saints, evangelists, fathers of the church, and zodiacal signs and stories were painted with meticulous attention to detail by anonymous Abruzzese artists (including one of the best Last Judgments I have seen, in which devils eat sinners, sinners are boiled in cauldrons, and the whole scene evokes the rings of Dante's h.e.l.l). It is not only the paintings' striking beauty I enjoy, but also the challenge of identifying who's who in them. is not far from the crocus fields of the Navelli plateau, and you can enjoy frescoes inside the oratory of San Pellegrino. Here saints, evangelists, fathers of the church, and zodiacal signs and stories were painted with meticulous attention to detail by anonymous Abruzzese artists (including one of the best Last Judgments I have seen, in which devils eat sinners, sinners are boiled in cauldrons, and the whole scene evokes the rings of Dante's h.e.l.l). It is not only the paintings' striking beauty I enjoy, but also the challenge of identifying who's who in them.I always stop at the Ducal Palace in TAGLIACOZZO TAGLIACOZZO to look at the late-fifteenth-century frescoes with scenes from Christ's life. One of my favorite pieces is to look at the late-fifteenth-century frescoes with scenes from Christ's life. One of my favorite pieces is The Adoration of the Magi The Adoration of the Magi, which features the local rulers of the Orsini family and their distinguished relatives all looking elegant in their different poses. Rich in tone, detail, and complexity, these frescoes were most certainly painted by an extremely skilled master, although unattributed.In ATRI ATRI, a town surrounded by medieval walls, the Church of Santa Maria a.s.sunta houses some of the most important early-Renaissance frescoes in Abruzzo, painted by Andrea De Litio, who eventually left Abruzzo to work in Tuscany. The frescoes are made up of 101 panels, with twenty-six scenes depicting the life of the Virgin Mary and Christ. The more you look at them, the more you appreciate the compulsive amount of detail and the deep quality of expression.-TANYAThe village of Santo Stefano di Sessanio in northern Abruzzo

MOLISE IS THE YOUNGEST OF THE ITALIAN REGIONS AND THE second smallest, after Valle d'Aosta. It is not a big tourist destination, but I found the landscape of verdant plains rolling down from the Apennines to the Adriatic a most peaceful and pastoral setting. The region is spa.r.s.ely populated, which lends to its unspoiled charm, and although the farmlands are rich, the economy of Molise throughout history has been meager, based on agriculture and the transporting second smallest, after Valle d'Aosta. It is not a big tourist destination, but I found the landscape of verdant plains rolling down from the Apennines to the Adriatic a most peaceful and pastoral setting. The region is spa.r.s.ely populated, which lends to its unspoiled charm, and although the farmlands are rich, the economy of Molise throughout history has been meager, based on agriculture and the transporting transumanza transumanza, of shepherds and their flocks from Abruzzo into Puglia. Judging from my last visit, though, things seem to be changing. The agriculture is developing into food industries, and the marketplaces are vibrant, filled with local produce-fruits, legumes, and cheeses-and the most common crops of the region: wheat, broad beans, and potatoes. There is, as well, a clothing industry developing.

Although the younger generations have moved away, seeking employment in the big cities, I have a sense that, with local and government incentives, the exodus will soon be diminishing, and the young will be returning to repopulate and set up shop in the land of their forefathers. Foreign tourism remains almost nonexistent, but many Italians spend their vacations in these medieval, almost deserted towns in the hills of Monti del Matese, above Campoba.s.so, the capital.

When I traveled with my friend Mario Piccozzi down from Roccaraso in Abruzzo in the summer of 2007, we stopped for lunch the first day near Bajano, and thereafter at other little trattorias, and it was evident that pasta, fresh and dry, was king in this small region. One of the simple and delicious recipes that I took home with me from that trip was gemelli with cauliflower, and as we headed toward the Adriatic, there was more pasta, particularly pasta with seafood, such as Braised Octopus with Spaghetti and simply prepared Spaghetti with Calamari, Scallops, and Shrimp, called Spaghetti di Tornola Spaghetti di Tornola, named after the old tower of defense on the tip of the promontory of Termoli, the largest fishing port in Molise. Molise is strong on dry pasta, but in the home kitchens there is still much fresh pasta being made. Some of the extraordinary recipes I found during that trip are Fresh Cavatelli with Cauliflower, Fresh Cavatelli with Favas, and Fresh Cavatelli with Eggs and Bacon. What I found very interesting and unique were the names given to fresh pasta, like malefante malefante (pasta cut 3 by 2 inches; see Fresh Pasta Strips with Beans and Bacon); or (pasta cut 3 by 2 inches; see Fresh Pasta Strips with Beans and Bacon); or taccozze taccozze (1-by-1-inch squares; see Fresh (1-by-1-inch squares; see Fresh Taccozze Taccozze Pasta with Sea Ba.s.s). Then there were the Pasta with Sea Ba.s.s). Then there were the -sagne -sagne (lasagna, (lasagna, lasagnelle lasagnelle), tagliatelle, and crejoli crejoli, similar to the maccheroni alla chitarra maccheroni alla chitarra in Abruzzo. The names were enough to intrigue me and send me back to my own kitchen to try them out. in Abruzzo. The names were enough to intrigue me and send me back to my own kitchen to try them out.

Whether in the sauces for pasta or in meats or fish preparations, in Molise the tomato dominates, as does the peperoncino. Inland, game, goat, lamb, pork, and beans are used in abundance. With the hilly terrain and rich pastures comes milk, and where there is milk there is cheese. The most notable cheese of Molise is the caciocavallo, and the best of this is from the town of Agnone. Made from cow's milk, caciocavallo resembles provolone. Its name-cacio = cheese; = cheese; cavallo cavallo = horse-refers to the way traveling shepherds, who made the cheese, would let it dry hanging across a pole on the back of the horses or mules as they traveled. Scamorza is also produced in Molise, a cheese similar to mozzarella that is left hanging to age, and ends up looking like a pear, which is sometimes smoked. Pecorino is also produced in the area, and all are part of the rustic and savory Molisano table. = horse-refers to the way traveling shepherds, who made the cheese, would let it dry hanging across a pole on the back of the horses or mules as they traveled. Scamorza is also produced in Molise, a cheese similar to mozzarella that is left hanging to age, and ends up looking like a pear, which is sometimes smoked. Pecorino is also produced in the area, and all are part of the rustic and savory Molisano table.

When cheese is made, there is always leftover whey, which is used to produce ricotta, and we had some simply delicious fried ricotta during that trip for which I share the recipe with you-Ricotta Fritta.

I had never realized before how rich the upper Molise is in truffles, especially around the town of San Pietro Avellana. The black truffle-Tuber aestivum, or scorzone scorzone-and in season the very valuable white truffle, Tuber magnatum pico Tuber magnatum pico, abound. In specialty shops and in homes in Molise, you will find delectable cheeses, olive oils, and vegetables preserved in jars, infused with these truffles.

And with these delicious truffles, one thinks of wine. There are only three DOC wines produced in Molise-the Biferno, Molise, and Pentro. Red, white, and rose Biferno is made around Campoba.s.so. Red, white, and rose Pentro is made at Isernia. The Molise, in red and white varietals, as well as the Falanghina white varietal is made almost all over the region.

There is also a tradition of silver- and goldsmithing in these parts, and I had heard of coppersmiths who still produced copper pots in artisa.n.a.l fashion in Agnone. So up the winding road Mario and I climbed, only to come back down the hilly terrain, four hours later, happy, with the backseat full of copper pots, which, once I got to Rome, I had to figure how to pack and ship home. They arrived safely in New York, and now they are a shining reminder in my kitchen of that glorious trip to Molise.

FISH S SOUP WITH V VEGETABLES.

Brodo di Pesce con Verdure Makes about 4 quarts, serving 8 to 10 Makes about 4 quarts, serving 8 to 10 I love all kinds of Italian fish soups, having sampled countless versions of zuppa di pesce zuppa di pesce, served with just enough tomatoey sauce to slurp up with a spoon, as well as brodo di pesce brodo di pesce, a flavorful fish stock usually with nothing but rice. A new discovery for me, though, was this Molisano version of brodo di pesce brodo di pesce, with chard and peppers floating between chunks of seafood in a savory broth. Served with grilled bread or a slab of grilled polenta, it is indeed a complete meal. Relish it with a gla.s.s of crispy white wine from the region's distinctive Falanghina grape varietal, and you can taste Molise beckoning you.

- 12 ounces monkfish fillet monkfish fillet (silver skin removed) (silver skin removed) - 8 ounces sea scallops sea scallops, preferably "dry" (not soaked in preservatives) - 1 pound large shrimp shrimp - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 2 medium onions onions, chopped (about 2 cups) - 5 plump garlic garlic cloves, crushed and peeled cloves, crushed and peeled - teaspoon peperoncino flakes peperoncino flakes, or to taste - 1 tablespoon plus teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - 4 Anaheim peppers Anaheim peppers, seeded and diced (about 2 cups) - 1 cup canned Italian plum tomatoes plum tomatoes, preferably San Marzano, crushed by hand - 6 quarts cold water water - 1 pound Swiss chard Swiss chard, sliced in -inch shreds RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A heavy-bottomed saucepan or soup pot, 7- or 8-quart capacity, with a cover Slice the monkfish into -inch chunks. Pull off the side muscle or "foot" from the scallops, and discard. Remove the sh.e.l.ls, tails, and digestive vein from the shrimp; rinse them and pat dry.

Pour the olive oil into the soup pot and set it over medium heat. Scatter in the onions, sliced garlic, and peperoncino, and season with teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are softened and slightly caramelized, about 8 to 10 minutes, then stir in the diced peppers, and cook another 3 minutes or so, until the peppers are tender.

Pour in the crushed tomatoes, raise the heat a bit, and cook, stirring, until the tomatoes have dried out, about 3 to 4 minutes. Pour in the water and the remaining tablespoon salt, stir well, cover the pot, and bring the water to a boil over high heat. Adjust the heat to maintain a gentle boil, and cook covered for an hour; then stir in the Swiss-chard shreds. Return the broth to a steady simmer, and cook uncovered for 45 minutes, or until the chard is very tender and the broth has reduced to 4 quarts.

To finish the soup: Add the chunks of monkfish to the simmering broth, cover, and cook for 5 minutes. Drop in the scallops, stir, and simmer for 7 minutes more. Add the shrimp, return the broth to a bubbling simmer, and cook for a minute or two, just until the shrimp are cooked through. Serve immediately in warm shallow soup bowls.

FRIED R RICOTTA.

Ricotta Fritta Makes about 24 pieces, serving 4 to 6 as a savory appetizer or 6 to 8 as a dessert Makes about 24 pieces, serving 4 to 6 as a savory appetizer or 6 to 8 as a dessert Life in the hilly inland of Molise was for centuries a pastoral existence, and the traditional staples of the pastoral table are still essential elements in cooking alla Molisana. alla Molisana. Ricotta, a nutritious and always available by-product of cheesemaking, thus appears on the table in many forms, such as gnocchi, with pastas and vegetables, and in soups-or eaten just plain, with bread. Here's one of the most delicious ways that ricotta can be enjoyed: drained, shaped in small pieces, breaded, and fried, Ricotta, a nutritious and always available by-product of cheesemaking, thus appears on the table in many forms, such as gnocchi, with pastas and vegetables, and in soups-or eaten just plain, with bread. Here's one of the most delicious ways that ricotta can be enjoyed: drained, shaped in small pieces, breaded, and fried, ricotta fritta ricotta fritta gains new dimensions of texture and flavor. Serve these fried ricotta morsels as a savory appetizer or main course, in a puddle of tomato sauce or on top of braised vegetables. On the other hand, if you top them with some poached peaches or peach preserve or fruit jam with a dollop of whipped cream, you have a glorious dessert. gains new dimensions of texture and flavor. Serve these fried ricotta morsels as a savory appetizer or main course, in a puddle of tomato sauce or on top of braised vegetables. On the other hand, if you top them with some poached peaches or peach preserve or fruit jam with a dollop of whipped cream, you have a glorious dessert.

- A 15-ounce container fresh ricotta fresh ricotta, drained - cup all-purpose flour all-purpose flour for dredging for dredging - 2 cups fine dry bread crumbs bread crumbs - 2 large eggs eggs - Pinch of kosher salt kosher salt - cup vegetable oil vegetable oil - FOR SERVING AS A SAVORY - 2 cups Tomato Sauce Tomato Sauce - 12 fresh basil fresh basil leaves, shredded (about 3 tablespoons) leaves, shredded (about 3 tablespoons) - FOR SERVING AS A DESSERT - 2 cups poached fruit poached fruit or or fruit jam fruit jam - 1 cup whipped cream whipped cream RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: 1 tablespoon-sized ice-cream scoop (or measuring spoon or melon baller); a heavy-bottomed nonstick skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or larger Put the drained ricotta in a bowl. With the ice-cream scoop or other implement, scoop out tablespoon-sized b.a.l.l.s of ricotta, and set them on a parchment-lined tray or sheet pan (you should have about twenty-four ricotta b.a.l.l.s total). Set the tray in the freezer, and chill the b.a.l.l.s until firm, about 30 minutes.

Spread the flour on a small plate, and the bread crumbs on a large plate. Whisk the eggs with a pinch of salt in a wide, shallow bowl. Dredge the b.a.l.l.s in the flour, and gently flatten them into thick patties. Coat the patties in egg, then dredge them until well coated in the bread crumbs, but not heavily so. Return the breaded patties to the parchment-lined tray.

When you are ready to fry the patties, pour the vegetable oil in the skillet and set over medium heat. The oil is ready when the tip of a patty sizzles on contact. Drop the patties into the skillet in batches, so they are not crowded, and fry for 1 to 2 minutes on each side, until golden brown and crispy. Lift them from the skillet with a slotted spatula, and drain briefly on paper towels.

Serve ricotta fritta ricotta fritta while still hot. while still hot.

For a savory appetizer or main course: spoon a pool of hot tomato sauce onto each serving plate, set 4 to 6 fried patties per portion in the sauce, and scatter shredded basil on top.

For a dessert dish: top portions of 3 or 4 patties per serving with warmed peach preserves (or any fruit jam or poached fruit) and whipped cream.

THE S SHORT S STORY OF P PASTAWith so much pasta, I decided this would be a good place to share with you some information about the history, the making, and the cooking of pasta.Evidence has been found that the Chinese were eating pasta over four thousand years ago, but, as much as it is said that Marco Polo brought pasta from China, it seems that pasta came to Italy from the Arab world into Sicily. There is reference to a h.o.m.ogeneous mixture of water and flour around the second century, by the Greek physician Galen. The Jerusalem Talmud records a kind of boiled dough that was eaten in Palestine from the fifth to the third century B.C. B.C. And in a dictionary compiled by Is...o...b..r Ali in the ninth century in Syria, he defines And in a dictionary compiled by Is...o...b..r Ali in the ninth century in Syria, he defines itriyya itriyya as strings made of semolina, dried, and then cooked. It seems that the nomadic Arab tribes made sheets of dough, dried them in the sun, and packed them for travel. When they reached the new camp, they would drop the dried pasta in boiling water, perhaps with other condiments, and the meal was ready. And when they hopped over and occupied Sicily, this tradition most likely came with them and traveled up the peninsula. as strings made of semolina, dried, and then cooked. It seems that the nomadic Arab tribes made sheets of dough, dried them in the sun, and packed them for travel. When they reached the new camp, they would drop the dried pasta in boiling water, perhaps with other condiments, and the meal was ready. And when they hopped over and occupied Sicily, this tradition most likely came with them and traveled up the peninsula.There is also a reference in Horace's work in the first century B.C. B.C. to to laganum laganum, a fine sheet of dough that was cooked, which the Romans enjoyed. These are all speculations. References to pasta in Italy as we know it today did not appear until the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries.The important elements in good dry-pasta-making are four: the quality of the semolina, its taste, and its gluten content, and the quality of the water. Why is durum wheat preferable? Because it is a hard wheat and has almost double the gluten that regular soft white flour does. Gluten is a form of protein, giving the pasta a resilient texture when cooked. Since Molise and Abruzzo are situated at the foot of the Apennines, the waters with which they make the dry pasta are pristine and flavorful. What is also important is that the dough be kneaded properly to build the glutens, and mixed at low temperatures to retain resiliency and consistency, so the pasta remains al dente al dente when cooked. Once the dough is developed, it is drawn through bronze cutters and formed into shapes. The pasta is then dried in a long, slow process, to ensure uniformity of texture and to retain the maximum flavors of the durum wheat, which when cooked blossoms into a gentle aroma. when cooked. Once the dough is developed, it is drawn through bronze cutters and formed into shapes. The pasta is then dried in a long, slow process, to ensure uniformity of texture and to retain the maximum flavors of the durum wheat, which when cooked blossoms into a gentle aroma.

CAVATELLICavatelli are a short, hollow form of fresh pasta that should definitely be part of your repertoire of homemade pasta varieties. Of all the shapes of fresh pasta that I share with you, this is one of the simplest to create, because all you need is your fingers. It is a shape that cooks well and remains al dente al dente, a gutsy pasta that is great to eat, with lots of texture. Cavatelli are also fun to make-even little ones can do it-and easy to freeze for future meals.

Most of all, I like cavatelli because they go so well with all kinds of sauces-in particular, zesty vegetable sauces. In the coming pages, I'll first tell you how to make cavatelli, and then present four dressed cavatelli dishes, typical of the many you will find in Molise. Of course, the sauces in these recipes are delicious with other pastas; in place of fresh cavatelli, you can subst.i.tute a pound of dried cavatelli, gemelli, short fusilli, strozzapreti strozzapreti, rotini, and other short dried pastas with good results. (And keep in mind that pastas made with whole wheat, barley, buckwheat, and other flours will add interesting flavor, nutritional value, and complexity to your pasta dishes.) FRESH C CAVATELLI.

Makes about 1 pounds, serving 6 - 1 pound fine durum-wheat flour durum-wheat flour (about 3 cups), plus more as needed (about 3 cups), plus more as needed - 1 cups very cold water water, plus more as needed RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A food processor fitted with a steel blade Put the flour in the bowl of the food processor, and process for a few seconds, to aerate. With the food processor running, pour in the water through the feed tube. Process for about 30 seconds, until a dough forms and gathers on the blade. If the dough does not gather on the blade or process easily, it is too wet or dry. Feel the dough, then work in more flour or cold water, in small amounts, using the processor or kneading by hand.

Turn the dough out on a lightly floured surface, and knead by hand for a minute, until it's smooth, soft, and stretchy. Press it into a disk, wrap well in plastic wrap, and let rest at room temperature for at least hour. (You can refrigerate the dough for up to a day, or freeze for a month or more. Defrost in the refrigerator, and return to room temperature before rolling.) To form the cavatelli, lightly flour your work surface. Pinch off golf-ball-sized pieces of dough, and roll them out under your palms into long ropes about the thickness of a pencil. Cut the ropes into 1-inch segments or short cylinders; keep pieces in front of you, horizontally (left to right). Flour your hands, especially the tips of the three middle fingers of your right hand unless you are left-handed. Hold these fingertips tightly together, and press them into one of the cut segments, and gently roll toward you.

As your fingertips make indentations in the segment, roll it toward you more so the dough both lengthens and curls around the fingertips. As the curl is complete, lift your fingers up quickly, so the dough segment drops off. It should now resemble a short concave sh.e.l.l-or a hollowed-out boat or canoe-with the impression of your fingers in the hollows and along the edges.

Adjust the pressure of your fingers as needed-if the dough cylinders are not lengthening and forming a hollow, press harder. If they're just flattening beneath your fingers, press a bit more gently. Once you get up to speed, you should be able to roll the cavatelli with a quick downward flick of your fingertips.

Sprinkle the finished cavatelli liberally with flour, and spread them out in a single layer on floured baking sheets. Leave them uncovered, to air-dry at room temperature, until ready to cook. (Or freeze the cavatelli on the sheets until hard, and pack them in airtight plastic bags.) FRESH C CAVATELLI WITH F FAVAS.

Cavatelli con le Fave e Ricotta Salata Serves 6 Serves 6 In this dish, the cavatelli are dressed with a sauce of fresh fava beans, always a great treat in season. Another special ingredient here is ricotta salata ricotta salata, or salted ricotta, a marvelous product made from fresh sheep's-milk ricotta that is pressed, dried, and aged for a few months, until fairly firm, retaining the mild, milky taste of fresh ricotta yet with more complexity. It is a traditional accompaniment to fresh favas-a delicious pairing you will taste here-but ricotta salata ricotta salata is a great final seasoning on many other pastas as well. As I instruct in this recipe, is a great final seasoning on many other pastas as well. As I instruct in this recipe, ricotta salata ricotta salata is best grated on top of the pasta just before you serve it. Put a chunk of it on the table with the grater, and let people shower on more is best grated on top of the pasta just before you serve it. Put a chunk of it on the table with the grater, and let people shower on more ricotta salata ricotta salata as they dig deeper into their bowls. as they dig deeper into their bowls.

- 4 pounds fresh fava beans fresh fava beans in the pods in the pods - 2 teaspoons kosher salt kosher salt, plus more for the pasta pot - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 1 large onion onion, chopped (about 1 cups) - 4 plump garlic garlic cloves, crushed and peeled cloves, crushed and peeled - teaspoon peperoncino flakes peperoncino flakes, or to taste - 1 batch (1 pounds) Fresh Cavatelli Fresh Cavatelli, or 1 pound dried pasta - cup freshly grated pecorino pecorino - 6-to-8-ounce chunk ricotta salata ricotta salata RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A large pasta pot; a heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or larger; a hand grater with large shredding holes (a flat, box, or rotary grater); a wire strainer To blanch the favas: Fill the pasta pot with 4 quarts water, and heat to a boil. Split open the fava pods, and collect the beans, still covered with a thick skin. When the water is boiling, drop in the favas, and blanch them for 2 minutes, just until they turn green and the skin has loosened. Lift out the beans with a wire strainer, and drop them into a bowl of ice water, to set the color. When they're chilled, drain the beans and peel off the skins; you should have about 3 cups of fully peeled favas. Now pour at least 2 more quarts of water and 1 tablespoon salt into the hot blanching water, and heat again to the boil, to cook the cavatelli.

To make the sauce: Pour the olive oil into the skillet, and set it over medium heat. Stir in the onion, garlic, and peperoncino. Cook until the onion is translucent, about 3 to 4 minutes. Ladle a cup or so of the pasta cooking water into the skillet, and simmer until the onion begins to soften, about 2 to 3 minutes. Spill in the favas, and season with the salt, ladle in another 3 cups of pasta water, and bring to a steady simmer. Cook, uncovered, for 15 to 20 minutes, until the favas are very tender and beginning to break down and thicken the sauce. Keep the sauce barely simmering while you cook the pasta.

With the pasta water at a rolling boil, drop in the cavatelli, stir, and return quickly to a boil. Cook for 4 to 5 minutes, until the cavatelli are al dente al dente, lift them out with a spider or strainer, drain briefly, and spill them into the skillet. Toss well, to coat the cavatelli evenly with the fava dressing. Turn off the heat, sprinkle the grated pecorino over the skillet, and toss again. Heap the cavatelli in warm bowls, and shred the ricotta salata ricotta salata chunk through the large holes of the hand grater, showering slivers on each serving. Serve immediately, pa.s.sing the rest of the chunk of chunk through the large holes of the hand grater, showering slivers on each serving. Serve immediately, pa.s.sing the rest of the chunk of ricotta salata ricotta salata and the grater at the table, for adding seasoning as needed. and the grater at the table, for adding seasoning as needed.

FRESH C CAVATELLI WITH C CAULIFLOWER.

Maccarun ch'i Hiucc Serves 6 Serves 6 Cauliflower is one of my favorite vegetables, and I regret that many people don't sufficiently appreciate its unique flavor and nutritional value. This is not the case in Molise, where it is cooked often and creatively, as exemplified by the following two simple vegetarian pasta dishes. The first recipe, maccarun ch'i hiucc maccarun ch'i hiucc, is zesty with garlic and peperoncino.

- teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt, plus more for the pasta pot - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 7 plump garlic garlic cloves, peeled and sliced cloves, peeled and sliced - teaspoon peperoncino flakes peperoncino flakes, or to taste - 2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley fresh Italian parsley - 1 large head cauliflower cauliflower, cut in small florets - 1 batch (1 pounds) Fresh Cavatelli Fresh Cavatelli, or 1 pound dried pasta - 1 cup freshly grated pecorino pecorino (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano- Reggiano, for a milder flavor) (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano- Reggiano, for a milder flavor) RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A large pasta pot; a heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or larger Fill the large pot with salted water (at least 6 quarts water with 1 tablespoon salt), and heat to a boil.

Pour the olive oil into the skillet, set over medium-high heat, and scatter in the sliced garlic. Let the garlic start to sizzle, then toss in the peperoncino and parsley; stir and cook for a minute. Ladle in a cup of the pasta cooking water, stir well, and adjust the heat to keep the liquid in the skillet simmering and reducing gradually while you cook the cauliflower and pasta.

With the pasta water at a rolling boil, drop in the cauliflower florets, and cook them for about 3 minutes, until barely tender. Drop in the cavatelli, stir, and return the water quickly to a boil. Cook another 4 to 5 minutes, until the cauliflower is fully tender and the pasta is al dente al dente (if you are using dried pasta, it will, of course, take longer). (if you are using dried pasta, it will, of course, take longer).

Lift out the florets and cavatelli with a spider or strainer, drain briefly, and spill them into the skillet. Toss well, to coat all the pasta and vegetable pieces with the garlicky dressing, then turn off the heat, sprinkle the grated cheese over the skillet, and toss again. Heap the cauliflower and cavatelli in warm bowls, and serve immediately.

FRESH C CAVATELLI WITH C CAULIFLOWER, ALMONDS & T & TOASTED B BREAD C CRUMBS.

Casarecce Vruocchele e Vredocchie Serves 6 Serves 6 The second recipe for cavatelli with cauliflower, casareccie vruocchele e vredocchie casareccie vruocchele e vredocchie, has a bit more complexity with toasted almonds and bread crumbs. Typically, this kind of dish is made with fresh homemade pastas like cavatelli-casarecce means "homemade"-but a short dried pasta such as gemelli can be subst.i.tuted. means "homemade"-but a short dried pasta such as gemelli can be subst.i.tuted.

- 8-inch chunk day-old country bread country bread (6 ounces) (6 ounces) - 7 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 4 plump garlic garlic cloves, peeled and sliced cloves, peeled and sliced - teaspoon peperoncino flakes peperoncino flakes, or to taste - 1 small head cauliflower cauliflower, cut in small florets (about 1 pound) - teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt, plus more for the pasta pot - 1 batch (1 pounds) Fresh Cavatelli Fresh Cavatelli, or 1 pound dried pasta - cup sliced almonds almonds, toasted and coa.r.s.ely chopped - 2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley fresh Italian parsley RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A large pasta pot; a heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or larger; a large bowl for tossing and serving the pasta Fill the large pot with salted water (at least 6 quarts water with 1 tablespoon salt), and heat to a boil.

Grate the bread chunk on the coa.r.s.e holes of a box grater into a mixing bowl; you should have about 2 cups of fluffy crumbs. Pour 5 tablespoons of the olive oil into the skillet, set it over medium-high heat, and scatter in the sliced garlic and peperoncino. Let them sizzle for a minute or so, then dump in the bread crumbs, and stir to moisten them with the oil.

Toast the crumbs for about 5 minutes, tossing them and shaking the pan almost continuously, until they're golden and crisp; adjust the heat so neither the bread crumbs nor the garlic gets too dark. Turn off the heat, and pour the toasted crumbs and garlic into the serving bowl.

Meanwhile, start cooking the cauliflower and cavatelli. With the cooking water at a rolling boil, drop in the salt and cauliflower florets, and cook them for about 3 minutes, until barely tender. Drop in the cavatelli, stir, and return the water quickly to a boil. Cook another 4 to 5 minutes, until the cauliflower is fully tender and the pasta is al dente. al dente.

Quickly drain (you can empty the pot into a colander) and spill the pasta and florets on top of the bread crumbs in the bowl. Sprinkle over the bowl the almonds, parsley, and salt, and toss everything together well, until the crumbs and almonds are evenly distributed and coat the pasta and cauliflower florets. Drizzle the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil all over, and toss again. Serve immediately, right from the bowl.

FRESH C CAVATELLI WITH E EGGS & B & BACON.

Cavatelli 'ncatenati Serves 6 Serves 6 In times past in poor regions like Molise, when meat was scarce, eggs were an available and affordable source of protein. A dish of pasta dressed with eggs combined the nutrients of two staple foods for a meal that was naturally nutritious and sustaining. I love these pastas sauced with eggs, and tasty versions can be found all over Italy, especially in Abruzzo, Molise, and Lazio (Rome), where the most famous dish of this type, spaghetti alla carbonara spaghetti alla carbonara, originated. This Molisano version is particularly appealing, with cavatelli, scrambled eggs, and bacon, and with grated Fontina Val d'Aosta tossed in at the end-a bit out of region, but absolutely delicious here. In Molise they would use grated pecorino, of course, and it is lovely that way, too.

- teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt, plus more for the pasta pot - 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter b.u.t.ter - 8 ounces slab or thick-cut bacon slab or thick-cut bacon, cut in -inch pieces - 5 large eggs eggs - 1 batch (1 pounds) Fresh Cavatelli Fresh Cavatelli, or 1 pound dried pasta - 2 cups shredded Fontina Val d'Aosta Fontina Val d'Aosta RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A large pasta-cooking pot; a heavy-bottomed nonstick skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or larger Fill the large pot with salted water (at least 6 quarts water with 1 tablespoon salt), and heat to a boil.

Pour the olive oil into the skillet, and set it over medium-high heat. Drop in the b.u.t.ter, let it melt, then scatter in the bacon pieces. Cook the bacon, stirring and tossing the pieces, for 5 minutes or so, until they're crisp and caramelized. (If the bacon rendered lots of fat, you can pour off half the fat from the pan.) Beat the eggs and teaspoon salt in a bowl until well blended.

When the water is at a rolling boil, drop in the cavatelli, stir, and return the water to a boil. Cook the cavatelli 4 to 5 minutes, until al dente al dente, lift them from the pot, drain briefly, and spill them into the skillet.

Over medium heat, toss the cavatelli with the bacon pieces, coating the pasta with the oil, b.u.t.ter, and bacon fat, too. Pour the beaten eggs all over the pasta, stirring and tumbling them together; keep sc.r.a.ping the coagulating egg from the sides and bottom of the pan, and incorporate it in with the wet eggs. Cook for a minute or two, just until all the egg is lightly cooked and custardy and evenly scrambled into the cavatelli.

Turn off the heat, scatter the shredded fontina over the eggs and pasta, and toss thoroughly to blend in the cheese as it melts. Serve immediately.

MALEFANTE & T & TACCOZZEMalefante and and taccozze taccozze are two of the many interesting forms of fresh pasta I found in Molise. Both are simple flat shapes, cut from the same plain pasta dough: are two of the many interesting forms of fresh pasta I found in Molise. Both are simple flat shapes, cut from the same plain pasta dough: malefante malefante are short rectangular strips, and are short rectangular strips, and taccozze taccozze are small diamonds. I give you the formula for the dough and instructions for cutting the shapes in the first recipe below. are small diamonds. I give you the formula for the dough and instructions for cutting the shapes in the first recipe below.

The following two recipes are for finished pastas with quite different flavors: Malefante Malefante are dressed in a loose sauce of cannellini (and their cooking liquid) with lots of crisp bacon pieces. The are dressed in a loose sauce of cannellini (and their cooking liquid) with lots of crisp bacon pieces. The taccozze taccozze come in a souplike fish stew, with chunks of sea-ba.s.s fillet and bits of fresh tomato. In fact, the little pasta diamonds are cooked right in the sauce, not in a separate pot of water. come in a souplike fish stew, with chunks of sea-ba.s.s fillet and bits of fresh tomato. In fact, the little pasta diamonds are cooked right in the sauce, not in a separate pot of water.

The soupy consistency of both of these dishes, compared with typical Italian pastas, is a reflection of custom and tradition but practicality, too. Given their flat and rather wide surfaces, both malefante malefante and and taccozze taccozze have a tendency to stick together. With sauces of the usual density, it would be difficult to keep the pieces apart and coat them on both sides. The greater amount of liquid in the recipes here makes it possible to separate the pasta pieces as you tumble them with the sauce. have a tendency to stick together. With sauces of the usual density, it would be difficult to keep the pieces apart and coat them on both sides. The greater amount of liquid in the recipes here makes it possible to separate the pasta pieces as you tumble them with the sauce.

Though I generally believe that pasta dishes should not have a wet or soupy quality, I love these two. Indeed, the bean-and-bacon sauce for the malefante malefante can easily cook to conventionally thick density, depending on how much bean cooking liquid you start with. In most instances, you will need to add water to really soften the beans and keep the sauce loose enough to coat the pasta. But I have found that if I add more water than necessary, creating a sauce that has to be slurped, I get a distinctly different dish that I actually prefer. can easily cook to conventionally thick density, depending on how much bean cooking liquid you start with. In most instances, you will need to add water to really soften the beans and keep the sauce loose enough to coat the pasta. But I have found that if I add more water than necessary, creating a sauce that has to be slurped, I get a distinctly different dish that I actually prefer.

In addition to adjusting the sauce consistency to your taste, there are many ways to vary the texture of the pasta dough or how you roll it. You might add eggs to the dough (the basic recipe calls only for water), or use a combination of whole-wheat and white flour. And if you use finely ground durum wheat flour in place of all-purpose flour, the pasta will have more of the taste you would find in Molise. Finally, you can give your malefante malefante and and taccozze taccozze a chewy, full mouth-feel simply by leaving the dough a little thicker when you roll it out. I found countless such variations in pasta during my travels in Molise and always appreciate these creative distinctions. a chewy, full mouth-feel simply by leaving the dough a little thicker when you roll it out. I found countless such variations in pasta during my travels in Molise and always appreciate these creative distinctions.

FRESH P PASTA FOR M MALEFANTE & T & TACCOZZE.

Makes about 1 pounds dough - 1 pound all-purpose flour all-purpose flour (about 3 cups), plus more as needed (about 3 cups), plus more as needed - 1 cups very cold water water, plus more as needed RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A food processor fitted with a steel blade; a pasta-rolling machine; a rotary pasta cutter or pizza wheel, or a sharp knife and ruler To make the pasta dough: Put the flour in the bowl of the food processor, and process for a few seconds to aerate. With the food processor running, pour in the water through the feed tube. Process for about 30 seconds, until a dough forms and gathers on the blade. If the dough does not gather on the blade or process easily, it is too wet or dry. Feel the dough, then work in more flour or ice water, in small amounts, using the processor or kneading by hand.

Turn the dough out on a lightly floured surface, and knead by hand for a minute, until it's smooth, soft, and stretchy. Press it into a disk, wrap well in plastic wrap, and let rest at room temperature for at least hour. (You can refrigerate the dough for up to a day, or freeze for a month or more. Defrost in the refrigerator and return to room temperature before rolling.) To roll out the dough with a pasta machine: Cut the dough in six equal pieces. Keeping them lightly floured, roll the pieces at progressively thinner settings, gradually stretching them into strips about 2 feet long and as wide as your machine allows, usually about 5 inches. For easier handling, cut each strip in half crosswise, so you have twelve strips about a foot long. Lay them flat on a lightly floured surface, and keep covered with towels.

To make malefante: malefante: One at a time, slice the strips lengthwise into long ribbons, about 1 inch wide or a bit more, using a rotary pasta cutter or a sharp knife and a ruler to guide the blade. You should get four such ribbons from each of the machine-rolled strips. Next cut the ribbons crosswise into 2-inch-long segments, the One at a time, slice the strips lengthwise into long ribbons, about 1 inch wide or a bit more, using a rotary pasta cutter or a sharp knife and a ruler to guide the blade. You should get four such ribbons from each of the machine-rolled strips. Next cut the ribbons crosswise into 2-inch-long segments, the malefante. malefante. Sprinkle and toss the cut pieces liberally with flour, and lay them out flat, not touching, in one layer on floured baking sheets. Leave the Sprinkle and toss the cut pieces liberally with flour, and lay them out flat, not touching, in one layer on floured baking sheets. Leave the malefante malefante uncovered, to air-dry at room temperature, until you cook them. uncovered, to air-dry at room temperature, until you cook them.