Legends Of Florence - Part 6
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Part 6

The authenticity of this legend, is more than doubtful, because it exists elsewhere, as I have read it, being unable to give my authority; but unless my memory deceives me, it goes back to cla.s.sic times, and may be found in some such work as that of Philostratus _de Vita Apollonii_ or Grosius. Neither am I well a.s.sured, to judge from the source whence I had it, that it is current among the people, though no great measure of credulity is here required, since it may be laid down as a rule, with rarest exception, that there is no old Roman tale of the kind which may not be unearthed with pains and patience among old Tuscan peasant women.

However, the _shield_ is still on the corner of the Via Calzaioli, albeit one of the nymphs on it has been knocked or worn away. Thus even _fates_ must yield in time to fate.

I have in a note to another legend spoken of the instinct which seems to lead children or grown people to a.s.sociate wells with indwelling fairies, to hear a voice in the echo, and see a face in the reflection in the still water. Keats has beautifully expressed it in "Endymion":

"Some mouldered steps lead into this cool cell Far as the slabbed margin of a well, Whose patient level peeps its crystal eye Right upward through the bushes to the sky. . . .

Upon a day when thus I watched . . . behold!

A wonder fair as any I have told- The same bright face I tasted in my sleep Smiling in the clear well. My heart did leap Through the cool depth. . . .

Or 'tis the cell of Echo, where she sits And babbles thorough silence till her wits Are gone in tender madness, and anon Faints into sleep, with many a dying tone."

"In which tale," writes the immortal Flaxius, "there is a pretty allegory. Few there are who know why truth is said to be at the bottom of a well; but this I can indeed declare to you. For as a mirror was above all things an emblem of truth, because it shows all things exactly as they are, so the water in a well was, as many traditions prove, considered as a mirror, because looking into it we see our face, which we of course most commonly see in a gla.s.s, and this disk of shining water resembles in every way a hand-mirror. And for this reason a mirror was also regarded as expressing life itself, for which reason people so greatly fear to break them. So in the Latin, _Velut in speculo_, and in the Italian, _Vero come un specchio_-'True as a mirror,' we have the same idea. And a poet has written, 'Mirrored as in a well,' and many have re-echoed the same pretty fancy.

"Which reminds me that in the Oberpfalz or Upper Palatinate maidens were wont to go to a well by moonlight, and if on looking therein they saw their own faces, they believed that they would soon be happily married.

But if a cloud darkened the moon and they saw nothing, then they would die old maids. But luckiest of all was it if they fancied they saw a man's face, for this would be the future husband himself.

"Now it befell that a certain youth near Heidelberg fell into a well, or put himself there, when a certain maid whom he loved, came and looked in, and believing that she saw the face of her destined spouse, went away in full faith that the fairy of the well had taken his form, and so she married him. Which, if it be not true, is _ben trovato_.

"Truth is always represented, be it remembered, as holding a mirror.

"And note also that the hand-mirror and the well were strangely connected in ancient times, as appears by Pausanias, who states that before a certain temple of Ceres hung a _speculum_, which, after it had been immersed in a neighbouring well or spring, showed invalids by reflection whether they would live or die. And with all this, the holding a mirror to the mouth of an insensible person to tell whether the breath was still in the body, seemed also to make it an indicator of life."

"Thus in life all things do pa.s.s, As it were, in magic gla.s.s."

THE STORY OF THE VIA DELLE SERVE SMARRITE

"We all do know the usual way In which our handmaids go astray, But in this tale the situation Has a peculiar variation; How an old wizard-strange occurrence!

Deluded all the girls in Florence, (It needs no magic now to do it), And how the maidens made him rue it, For having seized on him and stripped him, They tied him up and soundly whipped him."

The author of "The Cities of Central Italy," speaking of Siena, says that "In its heart, where its different hill-promontories unite, is the Piazza del Campo, lately-with the time-serving which disgraces every town in Italy-called Vittorio Emanuele." And with the stupidity and bad taste which seems to characterise all munic.i.p.al governments in this respect all the world over, that of Florence has changed most of the old names of this kind, and in order to render the confusion more complete, has put the new names just over the old ones, with the simple addition of the word _Gia_ or "formerly." Whence came the legend current in the Anglo-American colony, that a newly arrived young lady, not as yet beyond the second lesson in Ollendorff, being asked where she lived, answered in _Gia_ Street. She forgot the rest of the name.

One of these gaping _gias_ is the Via del Parlascio _gia Via delle Serve Smarrite_, or the street of the maidservants strayed away or gone astray.

Now Florence is famous for its pretty servant-girls, and if I may believe a halfpenny work, ent.i.tled "Seven Charming Florentine Domestics," now before me, which is racy of the soil-or dirt-and appears to be written from life [as accurate portraits of all the fascinating seven are given], I opine that the damsel of this cla.s.s who had never been, I do not say a wife, but a waif and a stray, must be a phenomenal rarity. Therefore it was suggested to me that it was formerly in very ancient times the custom to send all such stray cattle to the pound, that is, to dwell in this street as a kind of Ghetto. But the folly of this measure soon became apparent when it was found that one might as well try to get all the cats in Tuscany into a hand-basket, or all its flies-or fleas-under one tumbler, as try to make a comprehensive menagerie of these valuable animals, who were, however, by no means curiosities. So the attempt was abandoned, and thenceforth the maidens were allowed to stray wherever they pleased, but under some slight supervision; whence it was said of them that they were _le lucertole chi cominciano a sentir il sole_-"fireflies which begin to see the sun"-a proverb which the learned and genial Orlando Peschetti (1618) explains as being applicable to those who, having been in prison and then set free, are still watched, but which appears to me rather to refer to the suspected who are "shadowed"

before they are arrested.

But in due time I received from good authority an ancient legend of the Via delle Serve Smarrite, in which the origin of the name is explained as follows:

VIA DELLE SERVE SMARRITE.

"There was long ago, in what was afterwards called the Via delle Serve Smarrite, or Stray Maid-Servants' Street, a very ancient and immensely large house, which was generally supposed to be vacant, and in which no one cared to dwell, or even approach, since there were dreadful tales of evil deeds done in it, and reports that it was a gathering-place for witches, goblins, and _diavoli_. The clanking of chains and peals of horrid laughter rung from its chambers at midnight, blue and green fires gleamed from its windows, and everybody all around had heard from somebody else that the nightmares had there their special nest, from which they sailed forth to afflict all Florence.

"Yet all this was a trick which was often played in those days, when _gente non dabbene_ or evil folk and outlaws wanted to keep a house to themselves, and there were no newspapers to publish every mystery. For there were a great many who went in there, but few who ever came out, and these were all young and pretty servant-maids. And the way it was managed was this. When such girls were sent to the market to buy provisions, they always met there or elsewhere an old woman who pretended to be extremely pious, {43} who, by using many arts and making small gifts, and above all by subtle flatteries, persuaded them that service was only fit for _gentaccia_ or the dregs of the people, and that, beautiful and graceful as they were, they needed only live like ladies for a little time at ease, and they would soon be fit to marry some Signore, and that she herself would thus maintain them, hoping they would pay her well for it all when once married. And I need not say that the trick generally succeeded.

"The house to which they were led was ugly and repulsive outside, but within there were beautiful rooms of all kinds, magnificently furnished, and the new-comers were promptly bathed, elegantly attired, and jewelled from head to foot, and instead of serving, had maids given them as attendants, and everything conceivable was done to make their life as pleasant and demoralising among themselves as possible. But in due time they found out that a certain Signore was lord of the house and of themselves, and that he gradually led them into the strangest and most terrible orgies, and finally into witchcraft, after which one disappeared mysteriously after the other, none knew whither, but as there were always fresh arrivals to take their places, n.o.body heeded it.

"However, this mournful disappearance of pretty servant-maids became at last so frequent and was so mysterious, that it began to be much talked about. Now there was a certain gentleman, a man himself of great authority and intelligence, who had heard of these vanishments and hoped to find out their cause. And one night at a very late hour, when he was pa.s.sing by the mysterious house, he heard from it now and then sounds like groans mingled with the clanking of chains, and saw red and blue and green lights at the windows, but by keeping still he also distinguished the sound of music and girls' voices laughing and singing; and stealing near in the darkness, and fearing no devils, he contrived to climb up to a window, and pulling aside a curtain, peeped in, when he beheld plainly enough a great many beautiful women in scant array, or a real dance of witches, and being marvellously attracted by the sight of so many charms so liberally displayed, he naturally desired to enter the gay party.

"And here chance favoured him beyond all hope; for on going to the door, he found an old woman about to enter, to whom he gave a gold piece, and begged her to tell him the true story of the house, and whether he could enter it. But what was his amazement to find in her his old foster-mother of the country, whom he had not seen for many years, and who loved him dearly.

"And she, being pressed, told him the whole story of the house, wherein she was a servant, but that she had grown deadly tired of such evil ways, and seeing such sin as went on there, though she was well paid, and said if he would only give her a home, she would reveal all to justice. And she added that for the present he could freely join the girls who were dancing, as the wizard, their master, was away that night.

"But when he entered, he was amazed at the splendour of the rooms and the beauty of the women. Now among these he found one who truly enchanted him, and entering into conversation with her, found that she would gladly escape with him, and that many others were inclined to leave, but dare not show it for fear of the master.

"Then the Signore, addressing all the girls, told them that in a few hours the guards or police would, by his orders, be in the house, and advised them to at once seize on all the valuables on which they could lay their hands, and pack up their bundles and depart, and that he himself would write for every one a free pa.s.s to let her go with the property. And truly he had hardly spoken ere there began such a plundering and pillaging, sacking and spoliation, as it would have done your heart good to see, and which was like the taking of a rich town, only that the marauders were all maidens. Here was one rolling up silver spoons, cups, anything she could get, in a shawl; there another filling a bag with jewellery, and a silver ladle sticking out of her bosom or back; anon a couple of Venuses fighting for a splendid garment, while a superb Hebe ravished a golden goblet, and an enchanting Vesta, if not a vestal, appropriated most appropriately a silver lamp. Some pulled down the curtains, others rolled up the costly Venetian rugs; they drank wine when they were thirsty, and quarrelled and laughed and shrieked, as a parcel of wild servant-girls in a mad frolic might be expected to do. It was a fine sight-'one worthy of a great artist or De Goncourt,' notes Flaxius.

"When lo! all at once there was an awful and simultaneous shriek as the door opened, and the _Domine_-I mean the headmaster, wizard, or sultan-entered, gazing like an astonished demon on the scene before his eyes. In a voice of thunder he asked the meaning of the scene, when he found himself confronted by the intruding Signore, before whom his heart run away like water when he recognised in him a man having very great authority, with the police at his back.

"Now, servant-maids, however pretty they may be, are mostly _contadine_ with powerful muscles and mighty arms, and with one accord they rushed on their late master, and soon overpowered him. Then he was securely bound with silken curtain ropes, and the new Signore, taking his place at a great table, bade all the damsels range themselves at the sides in solemn council, for the offender was now to be tried, condemned, and punished too, should he be found guilty.

"The trial was indeed one of peculiar interest, and the testimony adduced would have made the fortune of a French novelist, but s.p.a.ce (if nothing else) prohibits my giving it. Suffice it to say that the wizard was found guilty of taking unto himself an undue share of pretty hand-maidens, a great sin considering the number of gallant soldiers and other bachelors who were thereby defrauded of their dues. But as he had neither murdered nor stolen, it was decided to let him go and carry on his games in some less Christian town, on condition that he would divide what money he had in the house among the poor girls whom he had so cruelly cajoled.

"And as this last sentence was plaintively p.r.o.nounced, there was a deep and beautiful sigh uttered by all the victims, followed by three cheers.

The master's strong-box was at once hunted up, and its contents shared, and indeed they were so considerable that the maidens one and all soon married n.o.bly and lived happily."

The written story, with a pleasing instinct of Italian thrift, adds that the conquering Signore purchased the property, in fact, the whole street, at a very low figure, before the facts became known, and gave the place the name of the _Via delle Serve Smarrite_, as it is still called by the people, despite its new official christening.

"Ye may break, ye may ruin the flask if ye will, But the scent of the brandy will hang round it still."

THE BRONZE BOAR OF THE MERCATO NUOVO

"Now among the Greeks, as with the Northern races, the boar was the special type of male generation, even as the frog expressed that of the female s.e.x. And therefore images of the boar were set in public places that fertility might be developed among women, for which reason they also wear, as among the Arabs, necklaces of silver frogs."-_Notes on Symbolism_.

In front of the Mercato Nuovo, built by Cosimo I., stands a bronze copy of an ancient boar, now in the Uffizzi Gallery. It was cast by Pietro Tacca, and is now a fountain. The popular legend in relation to it is as follows:

"In the market-place of Florence, which is called _Il Porcellino_, because there is in it a fountain with a swine, there was anciently only a spring of water and a pool, in which were many frogs, water-lizards, sh.e.l.l-snails, and slugs. These were round about, but in the spring itself was a frog who was confined there because she had revealed that her lover was a boar.

"This boar was the son of a rich lord, who, being married for a very long time, had no children, and for this reason made his wife very unhappy, saying that she was a useless creature, and that if she could not bear a son she had better pack up and be off with herself, which she endured despairingly and weeping continually, praying to the saints and giving alms withal, all to bring forth an heir, and all in vain.

"One day she saw a drove of pigs go by her palace, and among them were many sows and many more very little pigs. Now among these, or at hand, was a _fata_ or witch-spirit. {47} And the lady seeing this said in the bitterness of her heart, 'So the very pigs have offspring and I none. I would I were as they are, and could do as they do, and bring forth as they bring forth, and so escape all this suffering!'

"And the fairy heard this, and took her at her word; and, as you will see, she cut her cloth without measuring it first, from which came a sad misfit. And soon after she was ill, and this being told to her husband, he replied, 'Good news, and may she soon be gone!' but he changed his tone when he heard that he was to have an heir. Then he flew to her and begged her pardon, and made great rejoicings.

"Truly there was horror and sorrow when in due time the lady, instead of a human child, brought forth a boar-pig. Yet the parents were so possessed with the joy of having any kind of offspring that they ended by making a great pet of the creature, who was, however, human in his ways, and could in time talk with grace and ease. {48a} And when he grew older he began to run after the girls, and they to run away from him, screaming as if the devil had sent him for them.

"There lived near the palace a beautiful but very poor girl, and with her the young Boar fell desperately in love. So he asked her parents for her hand; but they, poor as they were, laughed at him, saying that their daughter should never marry a swine. But the young lady had well perceived that this was no common or lazy pig, such as never gets a ripe pear-_porco pigro non mangia pere mature_-as he had shown by wooing her; and, secondly, because she was poor and ambitious, and daring enough to do anything to become rich and great. {48b}

"Now she surmised that there were eggs under the chopped straw in this basket, or more in the youth than people supposed; and she was quite right, for on the bridal night he not only unclothed himself of silk and purple and fine linen, but also doffed his very skin or boar's hide, and appeared as beautiful as a Saint Sebastian freshly painted.

"Then he said to her, 'Be not astonished to find me good-looking at the rate of thirty sous to a franc, nor deem thyself over-paid, for if we had not wedded, truly I should have gone on pigging it to the end of my days, having been doomed-like many men-to be a beast so long as I was a bachelor, or till a beautiful maid would marry me. Yet there is a condition attached to this, which is, that I can only be a man as thou seest me by night, for I must be a boar by day. And shouldst thou ever betray this secret to any one, or if it be found out, then I shall again be a boar all the time for life, and thou turn into a frog because of too much talking.