Near Sastmola I first recognised the _Acer_ (_platanoides_) and _Filix fmina ramosa_ (_Aspidium Filix-fmina_?)

The road from Hwisbofiahl to Giolbohl lies along the coast. The gra.s.s here was remarkably tall, and full of all sorts of plants; as the _Ribes insipidum_ (_alpinum_), called by the inhabitants _Degbaer_, in the greatest abundance. (_Viburnum_) _Opulus_ and (_Lonicera_) _Xylosteum_ here first re-appeared after my long absence.

N. B. The shrub which Mr. Hojer informs us grows on this island, with blackish-brown berries, may perhaps be the _Xylosteum_, as the colour of the leaves seemed to agree very well. (Were it not for the above indication of the colour of the berries, it might, from the _Flora Suecica_, be suspected that Linnaeus had, in these two paragraphs, written by mistake _Xylosteum_ for _Periclymenum_.)

The alpine Stone Bramble, _Rubus saxatilis_, was extremely plentiful; and the Cultivated Hop (_Humulus Lupulus_), growing wild, afforded me great pleasure, as I contemplated its ingenious manner of curling round the Aspen trees (_Populus tremula_). Here also (_Anemone_) _Hepatica_, and the _Cracca_ with toothed wings (_stipulae_) and striated flowers, (_Vicia sylvatica_,) as well as the _Orobus vernus_, once more greeted me. The gra.s.s with a dense spike-like panicle, whose stems serve for cleaning the inside of tobacco-pipes, (_Agrostis arundinacea_,) grows copiously in this part of the country; and reached higher than my head.

The marshes abound with _Iris_ (_Pseud-acorus_) and with _Cyperus_ (probably _Scirpus maritimus_).

The greater part of the road I had travelled hitherto from Kimi lay so near the sh.o.r.e, that, even in the woody parts of it, the sea was frequently visible through the forests.

_September 29._

I travelled the whole of Michaelmas-day.

When a Finlander has fired at a bear, he immediately runs to one side, for the animal, if not killed, is sure to run directly forward, towards the smoke; by which means the man escapes out of his reach.

The peasants who reside near the cliffs or rising ground judge by the crows (_Corvus Cornix_), of the approach of bad weather; for these birds seek the marshy country in the evening, before it comes on.

Ulvila churchyard seemed to abound with sculls. I reckoned forty of them in one heap. This churchyard is built round, after the old fashion.

On entering one of the stove-huts of the inhabitants here, it was so hot, that I thought my nose would have been burnt off. Nevertheless, the people within seemed comfortable enough, and the boys, clad in skins, were running up and down the couch. The stove is constructed like that of a bagnio in Smoland, but upon it is piled a great heap of flat stones, to the height of a man. The old women sit in these huts half naked.

Between Hyfoeda and Taftnen is a river almost navigable. In some parts, as I was told, it is nine fathoms deep, and in one place is a ferry across this river. Half a mile from hence southward, close to the road, between two small bridges which are near each other, I noticed a sand-hill of very fine sand, in differently-coloured strata, some white, others reddish-purple.

In the evening I arrived at the town of Abo, which is as large as Orebro, and well built. It has often been ruined by the enemy, and often burnt down by accidental fires, which, if not occasioned otherwise, might easily happen from the stoves of the huts. I remarked that these stoves were less lofty than some I had seen, and that several stones lay loosely piled on one another above the opening, which serve to retain the heat.

_September 30._

The Finnish liquor called _Lura_ is prepared like other beer, except not being boiled, instead of which red-hot stones are thrown into it. Hence its purgative quality from the iron.

Here I saw a flying squirrel (_Sciurus volans_) from Tavasthia.

The long black rat, with a white lower lip, catches birds, both on trees and in the water. He holds fast by his claws, and bites with his four prominent teeth. The Finlanders call this animal _Mink_. (This seems to be _Viverra Lutreola_, Faun. Suec. ed. 2. 5.)

A quarter of a mile from the city is a mineral spring, of which Tillands has taken notice. (See _v._ 1. 43, _note_.) It is older than that of Medevi (near Vadstena). The current is so strong that one of the burghers of the city has built a mill, to which the water is led, but it does not always go. Near the town a mine has lately been opened, containing iron here and there, with small quant.i.ties of pyrites. The mountain itself is a black mica, immediately adjoining to the city.

The library here is miserable. There are two colleges close together.

_October 5._

I departed from Abo. The corn-fields of Finland are beautiful, and resemble those of East Gothland in their wide extent and level surface.

There are regular ferry boats at stated times to take pa.s.sengers to the isle of Aland.

_October 6._

I arrived at the place, near Brandoen, where I was to go on board the ferry-boat. The sh.o.r.e is a red rock. Pa.s.sed over to the island of Aland, the whole of which consists of the same kind of red rock. The palace of Castelholm, at present falling fast into ruins, is built of this sort of stone.

The women use for dyeing a sort of rock _Lichenoides_, of a brown stercoraceous colour, (perhaps _Lichen stygius_, or _omphalodes_,) which they boil in water with alum. But Walmal cloth, and stockings, are dyed without alum. Some add a little Arnotto (_Bixa Orelana_).

Shoes like short half-boots are worn here made of seal-skin.

_October 7._

In the evening of this day I pa.s.sed over the plain of Aland. There were abundance of Finn-berries (_Hippophae rhamnoides_) by the road.

_October 8._

I sailed over the sea of Aland.

_October 9._

Near Esbro an iron mine has lately been opened. About the church are sundry sepulchral monuments. I noticed on the small surrounding hills, as well as at Musangen, very fine and lofty plants of juniper resembling cypresses, the branches erect and close, a.s.suming a conical or pyramidal figure.

_October 10._

About one o'clock in the afternoon I arrived safe at Upsal.

To the Maker and Preserver of all things be praise, honour and glory for ever!

Some observations relative to the Seal, _Phoca vitulina_.

There are two kinds (or varieties) of this animal. The _Gra Sial_ (Grey Seal) is the largest, of a grey colour, lighter, and slightly clouded on the back. The _Wikare Sial_ (Creek Seal) is smaller, black on the back, and very cloudy or wavy at the sides. Otherwise there is no difference between them.

The whelp at its birth is perfectly white, being covered with white hair about an inch long, which it loses in four or five weeks, and becomes quite black. At the same period it acquires more activity and shyness than at first. The upper fore teeth are six, very small, resembling those of a dog. The eye-teeth slightly enlarged at their outer edge, as in the dog, and furnished with a little notch at their base. Grinders six. Whiskers remarkably large. There are two nipples a little below the navel, which the female has a power of drawing in, so as to leave holes large enough to admit the finger. She lets them out at pleasure to her young one.

The seal lies on its back while sleeping, either on the ice or on rocks.

They couple soon after the feast of St. Matthew, September 21; and the grey seal brings forth its young in January, the creek seal in February.

The male runs round and round the female many times, with a yelping noise, being very careful not to be observed.

When the female has young, the male is very savage, and continually attends to protect her. She brings forth but one at a birth, which at first is dull and stupid, easily caught. If thrown into the water, however, he exerts himself with some activity, and returns to the sh.o.r.e, not having as yet acquired any shyness. But by the time all his first coat of white hair is fallen off, he begins to be timid. The growth of the young seals is very rapid.

The seal, when out of the water, can hardly distinguish objects at half a quarter of a mile's distance at the utmost. But in foggy and dull weather he sees better than in sunshine. He never remains in the water during moon-light nights. His hearing is acute though he has no external ears, and his scent is also very quick. He can remain under water for nearly half a quarter of an hour; but by that time he must, at the peril of his life, come to the surface to breathe, which he often does within a fathom of the sh.o.r.e, and he afterwards spouts out water.

Nets for catching seals are set right out into the sea, from some promontory, to the distance of twenty fathoms. These are examined every morning, to see what is caught. They are chiefly set from St.

Bartholomew (August 24), when the moon is in her wane, till over St.

Matthew's day, September 21.