_30th_.--Proceeded to Shair-i-Suffa, ten miles and six furlongs. The country continues the same. The road extending along the right bank of the Turnuk, over undulating ground for one and a half or two miles, is bad, very narrow, and overhanging the steep bank of the river, scarcely pa.s.sable for wheel carriages without preparation. Vegetation continues precisely the same: little verdure to be seen even along the Turnuk: the hills desperately barren; a high mound occurs in middle of the valley near our halting place, well adapted for a fort, but unoccupied. Small fields of cultivation are now seen. A small species of mullet occurs in the river: thermometer 101 degrees at 1 P.M. in the tent.

Nothing can exceed the barren aspect of this valley, which is near Khet-i- Ahkoond, but at several miles distance, a few trees are visible in nooks: the only green along the banks of the river, is occasioned apparently by Tamarisk: the hills are picturesque, rugged, varied with bold cliffs, the valleys are changed in structure, being now occupied by rounded undulated ground, instead of hollow basins.

[River Turnuk banks: m363.jpg]

_July 1st_.--Proceeded ten miles, and halted on the Turnuk within one mile of the tower of Tirandaz. The country continues precisely the same: the road at first is bad, owing to the inhabitants having tried to flood it. At a distance of six miles we ascended a small defile without any difficulty; the remainder of the march being over undulating stony ground: the valley then becomes narrow, and we again enter into the arable part, which is especially narrow. The hills present the same aspect. _Joussa_ very abundant, and also Artemisia, and a Salsoloides flore ochroleuco. No villages are visible. We are unable to judge of the extent of cultivation, because the country, which seems uniformly dried up, is rugged and bouldery: on the right is the old bed of the river, consisting of dry sand. We crossed one small nullah, when an old fort became visible on a hill, in the centre of the valley.

_2nd_.--Proceeded to Toot, a distance of eleven miles, through a similar country; the road dividing at the low hills approaching the river and forming its banks, which are in places precipitous; the greater part of the difficulties were avoided by taking the lower route, that along the hills being impa.s.sable for guns owing to the large rocks scattered in every direction, and detached from conglomerate hills. Two or three nullahs were pa.s.sed, one with a little water. The ground was besides a good deal cut up towards the centre of the valley, and a water-cut was crossed several times. Owing to the delay in making the road, the troops did not reach the encamping ground before 8 or 8.5 P.M., the camels in some instances not before 12 P.M. An attack is reported to have been made on the baggage at the river where the road ascends the cliff: it was prevented by a party of the 13th, who shot two of the marauders. _Joussa_ is plentiful, and Mentha in flower.

The Turnuk river is 20 feet broad, the current rapid, and the water discoloured; the banks are sandy, 15 feet high: coa.r.s.e gra.s.s, Clematis scandens fol. ternatisectis pinnatis. _Jhow_ is abundant.

_3rd_.--From Toot to ----, nine miles and four furlongs. Road decent, over the usual sort of ground, except in one place, where the bank approaches the river; this defile is much shorter and much easier than that at Tirandaz or rather Jillongeer: a small river with a little water is crossed: here the road for a very short distance bends suddenly to a little west of north, but having crossed a narrow and deep ravine-like cut, resumes its original direction. The country continues precisely the same, the valley however becomes narrow and more undulating, while the peculiar limestone ranges appear to be fewer. Reached the encamping ground in very good time, the vegetation almost precisely the same as before, but with some willow trees. Many of the ravines are however, actually covered with thickets, apparently of the p.r.i.c.kly yellow flowered Dioica shrub of _Chummun_; trees and these shrubs occupied by thousands of a hymenopterous insect or fly. _Joussa_ very abundant: a village, the lights of one were visible _en route_. The water of the Turnuk is still very much discoloured, its bed shingly, and the ground near it much cut up: a mill was pa.s.sed on the river; the valley here not being 500 yards wide: the climate is more agreeable, though still very hot in the middle of the day; in the shade, the air continues pleasant up to 10 A.M.

Thunder not heavy, was succeeded by a squall from the ENE.; little rain fell, but there were clouds of dust.

_4th_.--Reached Khilat-i-Gilzee, distance thirteen and a half miles, from our last encampment, direction NE. by E. as before: the aspect of the country is unchanged, the road became somewhat difficult about one and a half mile from camp, where a defile exists along the hills forming the bank of the river; it was however much easier than that of Botee. Thence we continued over undulating ground, leaving the Turnuk river to the right, but reverting to it beyond the fort. Half-way the deep and steep channel of a river presented a serious obstacle; the country gradually rises until Khilat-i-Gilzee fort is pa.s.sed, from thence it descends somewhat. At this place there is a considerable expanse of irregular valleys; and to south curious low undulated ground occurs: to the south- east is a patch of table land, which is not an uncommon form in these parts; some cultivation here exists along the Turnuk, which runs half a mile below the fort, which is in ruins, occupying a hill not commanded by any near ones. This is of no great height, and has two ramifications, and in the centre the remains of a tower.

In the valley extending NNE. two villages with castles occur, together with a good many low trees. Vegetation the same: a curious Antirrhinoid plant occurs out of flower, Echinops, Carduacea, and a curious Centaurea.

Wet places abound in Rumex and Tamarisk along the river. Hors.e.m.e.n were seen after pa.s.sing the fort: two or three willow trees about the villages. _Jhow_ or barley is selling for ten seers the rupee, _atta_ or flour at eight.

_5th_.--Khilat-i-Gilzee is a very uninteresting place, with little appearance of cultivation. The vegetation of the undulated ground continues the same, Asphodelus, Mesembryanthemoides, remains of Tauschia, and the former Cruciferae. The Turnuk discharges a good deal of water much discoloured, and forming a series of constant rapids. The most common plants are Artemisiae two or three species, Centaurea spinosa, Salsola luteiflora, Almond groves, Iris crocifolia? vel sp. affinis, Asphodelus, Mesemb., Salvioides, Thermopsis, Cichorium, _Joussa_, and Mentha recur, the two last in abundance. The new plants are a Chenopodium, Polygonum, Lotoides, Tritic.u.m, Astragalus, Scirpus, Caesalpinioides, Centaurea micrantha, and Eryngioides: a spring occurs in the old fort of Khilat-i-Gilzee.

Indian-corn is just sprouting up, barley and other crops ripe. Lat.i.tude of Khilat-i-Gilzee 32 degrees 7' 30"; alt.i.tude, Bar. 24.740: the climate is disagreeable from the violent sudden extremes to which it is exposed.

West winds during day, and east winds of a morning.

_6th_.--Proceeded to Sir Tasp, ten miles, north-east, road good over an open undulating country, the only difficulty in the way arising from a cut with deep holes in it. Vegetation continues precisely the same: limestone hills less frequent, or at any rate much less rugged, and the country a.s.sumes a much more open character. Artemisia most abundant, of large size, Caesalpinia, Euonymus dioica, Centaurea spinosa, Echinops, new plants two Linariae, Eryngium, Verbasc.u.m. Alt.i.tude 24.505, lat.i.tude 32 degrees 12' 22" north. _Atta_ has risen in price to seven seers a rupee.

_7th_.--Arrived at Nooroock after a march of nine miles; still extending up the valley in a direction north-east--direct on the star Capella. The country is undulated; vegetation still the same. Artemisia most abundant and of a larger size; road good: no fodder for horses, except along the river: the valley open, distant hills on either side with a fine range to the north of the camp, apparently composed of limestone, with abundance of junipers, and the Iris of Dund-i-Golai very common. Hares, rock pigeons, Alauda. Myriads of Cicada, and the Jerboa rat. The Turnuk river is again occasionally in sight, valley apparently little cultivated. Stipa very common, as well as Iris, Festuca vivipara, Astragali sp., and Artemisia. Cloudy evening, followed by a stormy night; wind southerly.

_8th_.--Reached Tazee, eight miles seven furlongs from Nooroock: direction still the same, no change: the road good, extending over an undulated country, except one or two small nullahs with rather steep banks. A range of mountains seen to the north, called Kohi-Soork, continue forming a long line, the southern boundary of which is broken: we are encamped opposite a valley running east, presenting much cultivation: several villages indicated by distant _smoke_: some trees are seen here and there: the face of the valley is rather green, indicating more water than usual. Vegetation is precisely the same; no _Joussa_ or other fodder for camels than Artemisia and spinous Compositae.

Morning very cloudy and cold at 12 P.M. The plants met with are Chara, Naiad, Polygoni 3, Malva fl. amplis lilacinis, on banks of river.

_9th_.--_Shuftul_, five miles: the direction lay towards the star Capella: road bad, requiring to be made over three difficult ravines, all forming beds of torrents descending from the Koh-i-Soork. The country otherwise presents the same features. The Turnuk runs close under the southern boundary of the valley, and is here a pretty stream of considerable body. _Joussa_ grows abundantly on its immediate banks, together with excellent gra.s.s and some clover, one or two new Compositae, one of them a Matthiola, otherwise Artemisiae, Stipa, Centaurea spinaceis herb. Astragalus, and Peganum, are the most common; Muscoides, Plantaginacea reoccur, a curious _leaved_ Composita?

_10th_.--Halted yesterday, and went out along the banks of the Turnuk: where I found twenty-six species not obtained before. Some cultivation was observed, but as usual weedy, abounding with two species of Centaurea. In ditches two species of Epilobium, Sparganium, Mentha, Polygonum natans, Ranunculus aquaticus, Lotus, Carex, Astragaloid on swards, on the sandy moist banks of the Turnuk: Epilobium, two Veronicae, several Cyperaceae, 2 or 3 Junci, Cyperus fuscus. Alisma abundant in swamps: small partridges: no chakor: hares, swifts, rock-pigeons. Springs of beautiful clear water: temperature not changeable, 59 degrees; two small platiceroid fishes in it; tadpoles. Temperature of the river 78 degrees. The fish of this river are the same as those of the Arghandab, the large Cyprinus takes Cicada greedily. The vegetation of the hills is the same: Cerasus pygmaeus and ca.n.u.s, common; the novelties were a fine Composita, Plectranthus, Ephedra in fruit, Artemisia, and Astragal., formed the chief bulk; _Joussa_ is common on the river sides.

This place is 150 feet above the last, yet the increased elevation is not appreciable to the sight: the tents of the army at the Tazee encampment are distinctly visible. _Atta_ sold, at eight seers yesterday, barley sixteen seers for the rupee. Where the sellers come from I know not.

_Atta_ was fifteen seers, but it was soon made eight by the approach of the army, and to-day it has risen to four and a half.

_11th_.--Proceeded to Chushm-i-Shadee, ten miles six furlongs, direction the same: road good, not requiring any repairs; it continues up the valley but at a greater distance from the river than before; the valley is enclosed in hills on both sides. Koh-i-Soork, the northern one, is not very high, but bold and cliffy, with very little cultivation: the country is less undulated. Chushm-i-Shadee is a beautiful spring, not deep, but extending some distance under ground; large-sized fish are found in it: apparently Ophiocephali, but only parts of their bodies can be seen. Indian-corn and madder are cultivated: a new Asteraceous flower was found. Pa.s.sed a small eminence in the centre of the valley, about three miles from Chushm-i-Shadee. _Joussa_ very abundant. Temperature of spring 59 degrees.

_12th_.--Reached Chushm-i-Pinjup, six and a half miles, direction more northerly; keeping Capella a little to the right: the country is precisely the same, the road good, one or two easy ravines; one with water in it.

The valley is rather wider, soil much less shingly, and capable of cultivation; several patches of trees are visible in many directions, indicating villages. We encamped opposite the entrance or gap between the mountains forming hitherto the southern boundary, and a more lofty range is seen running parallel with them, about east and west. This range is of considerable height; presenting a _peculiar slope_ rising almost half-way up, and very conspicuous: four forts are seen in this direction; together with several patches of trees, and a good deal of cultivation, but nothing to what might exist. Artemisia is the chief shrub; several good springs occur: clover, and good gra.s.s are both abundant for a small party; _Joussa_ in cultivation. The mountain range to the north is very fine, and apparently of different formation from the others; here and there whitish patches occur. There is a very evident slope, which is very gradual from the northern range to the _peculiar_ slope of the southern.

Several springs of fine water occur: the temperature of which is 60 degrees. Fish are abundant about the mouths of these springs, which are like caves; their waters form one of the heads of the Turnuk, along them Mentha, Gramineae 2, Plantago major, Centaurea magnispina, Compositae, Trifolium. In the spring Polygonum natans, and P. graminifol., Chara, Cyperacae.

[Peculiar slope: m368.jpg]

_13th_.--Gojhan, the distance to this place is 12 miles 6 furlongs: it is not within sight of the Turnuk, though still up the valley of that river, with the same boundaries: a few ravines were crossed but they were not difficult: the road, otherwise level, turning most of them, and capable of easy transit. One small stream was pa.s.sed, when we encamped on a small cut with excellent water: the banks as usual clovery and gra.s.sy; opposite this are two villages on either side of a gorge in the northern boundary, both apparently fortified; the one to the north of the gorge is of large size. The country is not shingly, but the soil is mixed with small pebbles; to our right is a bold hill; vegetation the same.

_Bicornigera_ planta is very common, and a good deal of madder cultivation occurs; wheat and barley all cut and thrashed or trodden out: _atta_ selling eight and a half seers the rupee. Thermometer at day break 49 degrees, the west winds continue strong: they arise about 11 A.M. and continue till sunset, sometimes even a little later; they are not hot.

This place, and its environs, is one of the most promising looking I have seen; the whole face of the country being perhaps capable of cultivation.

No _Joussa_ seen except perhaps among the cultivated fields; gra.s.s is plentiful enough for a small force, and _Boosee_ likewise.

Quails were seen on the march at some distance: it seems to be a great country for potash, and perhaps for camphor, which is evidently abundant in one species of Artemisia.

_14th_.--Proceeded to Mookhloor or _Chushm-i-Turnuk_, twelve and a half miles; direction about NNE. The country is the same, but the road is more raviny: certain pa.s.ses occur about three miles from Gojhan, presenting a fine defile, and some smaller ones afterwards. Vegetation continues the same. Artemisiae, Astragali, and Peganum, are most common; observed a new Astragalus. The valley is much wider after pa.s.sing Gojhan; the southern boundary is not so distinct, owing to the haze: there is not much cultivation, which appears to be confined to the slopes under the hills. Mookhloor is situated under a fine limestone cliff; and an excellent stream of water occurs here, and abundance of fine gra.s.s along the humid banks: along this water villages are abundant, they are all fortified. Trees are plentiful, indeed after Candahar and Arghandab, this is the best looking place we have seen: the view is not distinct however, owing to the haze above alluded to: beyond the water, lies a vast and barren plain. Fish are abundant in the stream, and vegetation luxuriant along its margins. This stream divides into two or three branches, which are all soon choked up with sedges, etc., a cut carries off the greater part of the water, the slope is to the south, or a little to the west of south.

Typha angustifolia occurs in profusion, Mentha, Cochlearia, Epilobiae 2, Calamus abundant, Cyperaceae in profusion, Ranuncul. aquatic, Alisma ditto. The vegetation of the plain where we are encamped is chiefly Artemisia.

_15th_.--Halted: and I here ascended the hills overhanging the heads of Turnuk where many villages are visible along its branches, fifty may be counted, but it is not known how many of these are in ruins, the villages occur at little distances from each other; the valley is very broad.

These hills, which are of conglomerate limestone, except about the upper one-third, which is simple limestone, have no peculiar vegetation. Ficus is the only moderate sized shrub, Asphodelus, Lameoides, Salvia alia, which must be a beautiful species, l.a.b.i.atae caespitosa, Baehmerioides, Pommereulla, and several gra.s.ses, Compositae, Linaria, Senecionoides glaucescens of Quettah, Dianthoides frutex alius congener, Staticoides alia, Composita Eryngifolia, Eryngium, Astragali 2, Umbelliferae 2-3, Hibiscus vel Althaei, Rutae sp.; Frutex pistacioides, Sedoides rosaceus, Onosma, Verbasc.u.m, Dipsacea, Cerasus pygmaeus, ca.n.u.s, Scrophularia tertia, Compositae, l.a.b.i.atae, and gra.s.ses, are all the most common plants.

The novelties along the water are a pretty species of Astragalus, in turf a Triglochin and Typha in flower, Potamogetons 3-4, and Ecratophyllum occur: barley is now selling at sixteen seers, wheat at eight seers for a rupee.

_16th_.--Reached Oba-kahreeze, the distance of which from the last encampment being fourteen miles. The country is open, but very uninteresting; the boundary hills are scarcely discernible owing to haze: the road is good, and a few small hills occur here and there. Vegetation is comparatively scanty; Astragalus novus, common; the chief plants, however, is another Artemisia of much more medicated qualities than those previously met with, that is, less fragrant, Peganum common. Water is plentiful enough, but fodder is scarce, and scarcely any _Joussa_ occurs; but a good deal of cultivation was pa.s.sed, consisting of madder, barley, and wheat. A few trees were observed here and there marking the sites of villages. The country is much poorer than that at Mookhloor, but almost the whole expanse of plain is capable of good cultivation: soil pebbly.

Fowls a good many are procurable. Apricots are also brought for sale, but very inferior: a striking boundary hill to the north presents a rugged, lofty aspect, not less in the peaks than 4,000 above the plain; several ranges occur, but those to the south are low, rounded, and small; rounded clumps of Astragali are seen.

_17th_.--Proceeded to Jumrat, 12 miles and 2 furlongs, our direction lying to the north of the star Capella. The country continues to present a similar aspect: valley expanded, road tolerable, several ravines and beds of dry watercourses, with sandy bottoms; indeed as compared with yesterday, the soil is much more sandy and less pebbly. Vegetation is the same, no more dense aggregations of Artemisia fruticosa are seen, but the plants consisting of scattered Artemisia of yesterday, barely suffruticose, Peganum, Astragalus, Astragaloid Muscoideus, and Senecio glaucescens. A good deal of cultivation occurs on both sides of the slope towards the southern boundary, which is here lofty, presenting the usual limestone characters. Many villages are seen, all fortified, and about Jumrat there is the appearance of much population. Jerboas, ravens, rock pigeons, and wild pigeons, are common; hares are uncommon.

Very few trees are to be seen, but there is abundance of good water and gra.s.s along the margins of the cut. Sheep are also to be had, but they are small, and goats for one rupee each, large sheep two rupees: _dhal_, _atta_, barley procurable; and Herat rugs.

To-day the native troops were put on short rations of twelve _chatacs_; servants, etc. on eight. Hors.e.m.e.n to the number of 100? came to meet the Shah, all mounted on decent ponies, but quite incapable of coping with our irregular horse. Barometer 23.305, thermometer 87 degrees, Wooll.

new thermometrical barometer 697.6, old 595.8.

From 11 P.M. to 12 P.M. heavy rain; very heavy for about twenty minutes, with a threatening aspect in the horizon at 7 A.M. to south by east, from which direction the rain came: thunder and lightning; latter very frequent.

_18th_.--Entered the district of Karabagh, distance to our present place of encampment from that we had left eight and a half miles. The road decent, traversing several watercuts, one or two ravines, and a small stream, indeed water becomes more abundant to-day than in almost any other march: our direction lay the same as before, but as we approached the low hills, separating us from Ghuznee plain, we proceeded more east in order to turn them. The features of the country are the same, together with the vegetation, the only novelty being a genuine Statice and a Cruciferous plant, which I observed at Mookhloor, and a Composita, Echinops spinis radiantibus continued. The medicated suffruticose Artemisia: _Joussa_ in old cultivation, and Peganum are the most common plants.

Gra.s.s abundant along the cuts and streamlets, mixed with a pretty new Astragalus, and the Astragalus of Mookhloor, _Composita depressa_, etc.

The valley narrowing, we halted at the foot of low hills, which we are yet to traverse; the ground about our camp stony and barren, producing Astragalus, th.o.r.n.y Staticoides, Centaurea spinosa, Verbasc.u.m, and Thapsus.

The soil of the plain good and deep, as instanced by ravines, and the deep beds of streamlets. Cultivation is abundant, villages numerous, and, as usual, all walled; their form generally square, with a bastion at each corner, and often two at each face, in which there is a gate. The people are very confident of their own security in these parts, crowding to our camp with merchandise. The country continues bare of trees, except about some of the villages; northern boundary hills lofty; a curious snow-like appearance is occasionally produced from denudation of land slips, like a long wall running along one of the ridges: southern hills distant, presenting limestone characters.

The articles sold in camp yesterday, were _atta_ (wheat) eight seers, barley sixteen _chenna_, sugar three to four seers. Lucerne abundant, at one rupee four annas a bullock load, _soorais_, _kismiss_, three to four seers, _zurd-aloo_ twelve seers, dried _toot_ or mulberry one and a half seers for a rupee, but these are insipid, very sweet, but also very dirty, _pistacio_ nuts one seer: crops not yet cut, but ripe.

_Kupra_, cloth of common quality, as well as a black kind called _soosee_.

Barometer, mean of three observations (12 P.M., 1 P.M., 2 P.M.) 23.433, thermometer 85 degrees 6'. Wooll. new therm. bar. mean of two observations, 699.1, old, 597.5. Lichens abundant on black _limestone_?

rocks. On hills about camp, l.a.b.i.ata nova, and a curious tomentose plant were the only novelties.

_19th_.--Proceeded to Argutto, distance nine miles, direction easterly, the country continues unchanged until we ascended gradually the end of the low ridge between us and Ghuznee. The slope was very gradual: the road towards the foot generally sandy, and in some places very bouldery: on surmounting the ridge, which was not 300 feet above the plain, we descended a trifle, and encamped in an open s.p.a.ce with hills to the north; this place slopes to the south into the valley up which we have come for some marches. The valley in this upper portion is not so fertile as the lower parts we have seen lately, still there are a good many forts, and some cultivation: one or two cuts were pa.s.sed, and water is abundant at our halting place in cuts, or _Kahrezes_, as well as in a small torrent with a shallow bed. Several forts were seen on the north side, situated in the small ravines of the hills, they are however, mostly ruined. No change in the vegetation. Jerboas not uncommon. An Accipitrine bird, the same as that obtained at Shair-i-Suffer.

Hors.e.m.e.n, about thirty, were seen on the hills; they descended thence and skirted the base in number; when they were pursued by our cavalry, but escaped through a ravine which Sturt says, leads into a fine plain with many forts. The 4th brigade joined with the Shah's force. I observed to- day a curious monstrosity of an Umbelliferous plant, in which the rays of the umbellules are soldered together; forming an involucre round the immersed central solitary female, the male flowers forming the extreme teeth of the involucre.

Detached thermometer 83 degrees 3', attached ditto 83 degrees 3'; barometer 23.262, mean of three observations: old therm. bar. 597.2, new ditto 696.9. Abundance of villages throughout the part of the valley running east, and then north, and many trees.

[Ghuznee: p373.jpg]