Journal of a Voyage across the Atlantic.

by George Moore.

PREFACE.

Having a large circle of friends who feel interested in my American trip, the propriety of publishing my observations, to avoid going over the same ground again and again, was suggested by one of them--a hint with which I have complied.

I can say, with the strictest truth, that I have not revised or altered any impression formed at the moment. Indeed, I never saw these Notes from the time they were written till they pa.s.sed through the press.

Change of scene, and a new current of thoughts, with the blessing of Providence, have worked a considerable improvement in my health--a mercy for which I shall ever feel grateful; and while I prize the high privileges of the land of my birth, and feel proud to be an Englishman, I hope ever to regard our Transatlantic brethren with respect, and do full justice to the extensive wonders of America.

_London, April 30, 1845._

LOG, &c.

_Sat.u.r.day, 17th August, 1844_, One o'clock, P.M.--Left Liverpool in the _Great Western_ steamship, Captain Mathews, for New York, with 138 pa.s.sengers. Wind N.W., blowing a strong gale. In two hours very few pa.s.sengers on deck, the ship rolling heavily. At four discharged the pilot. At half-past twelve pa.s.sed Holyhead. Went to bed rather squeamish at seven.

_Sunday_ morning.--Rose at seven; was awakened by the stopping of the engine, from breaking a new wheel which had been put up to work the blowers for the fires. Detained an hour and half in consequence. Pa.s.sed Tuskar at ten. Had public worship at one: the Church of England service, in which the name of the President of the United States was introduced: about seventy attended. No sermon, there being no minister on board, and the Captain not prepared.

The routine of each day appears to be this:--The gong sounds at half-past seven to rise; breakfast at nine; at twelve lunch; at half-past three dress for dinner; at four dine; half-past seven tea; very few take supper at ten; lights put out at eleven punctually.

At seven P.M. pa.s.sed Cork; at nine Kinsale. 165 miles. Lat.i.tude, 51 58' N.: Longitude, 6 34'.

At three o'clock on _Monday_ morning, the 19th, pa.s.sed Cape Clear; and when I got on deck only a distant view of the most rugged part of Ireland to be seen. It is now eight o'clock, and the pa.s.sengers are beginning to show themselves, the sea having gone down, and the ship going on smoothly 9-3/4 knots. Laid down the following rules, which I hope to be able to keep:--Rise at half-past seven; walk on deck till breakfast; read at least six chapters in the Bible the first thing after breakfast; then walk on deck for an hour till lunch; afterwards write for an hour; then walk on deck for another hour; then read any books I have till dinner; between dinner and tea walk and talk, and take stock of the pa.s.sengers, being some of all sorts here; after tea whist till ten, and then turn in.

The weather continues very calm, and the sea smooth. This steamer, without exception, the easiest and most comfortable I have ever sailed in. About 100 dined to-day, and the general appet.i.te appeared to be in a satisfactory state.

211 miles. Lat. 51 32' N.; Long. 11 59'.

_Tuesday_, the 20th, seven A.M.--A most beautiful morning. Spent the day as usual. During dinner the wind changed to E.N.E. Set all sail below and aloft, and the engine made 12 revolutions in the minute. It was now that I became acquainted with our worthy Captain, whom I found to be a gentlemanly, courteous, obliging little fellow. Heard some German, Irish, English, and Yankee songs; and turned in at half-past ten.

193 miles. Lat. 51 26' N.; Long. 17 3'.

_Wednesday_, the 21st.--Rose at my usual time. Fine weather. For the first time saw a sail, a brig, standing to the south, but too distant to exchange signals. The wind fair, but very light: the engine making 12-1/2 revolutions a minute, or 94 knots an hour. Spent the day as usual.

228 miles. Lat. 51 24' N.; Long. 23 6'.

_Thursday_, the 22nd.--The wind changed to south; and the pa.s.sengers all on deck. The sea smooth; and the engine, after being well coaled, made 14 revolutions per minute. Some heavy card-playing on board, and imprudent losses, which I much regretted to see.

220 miles. Lat. 51 5' N.; Long. 28 54'.

_Friday_, the 23rd.--The ship rolling from a south swell; and a very small muster at breakfast. The ladies generally ill. The wind S.E., and the ship covered with canvas. Rate 11 knots by the Log. Wind freshened up to a sharp breeze from the West; and it is now nearly three days since I have been able to put pen to paper. During dinner all the sails taken in; and the heavy pitching of the ship sent all the grumblers from the table.

259 miles. Lat. 50 33' N.; Long. 34 59'.

_Sat.u.r.day_ morning, the 24th.--Read; talked; walked; lunched; walked and read again. At nine drank "wives and sweethearts;" and then to bed.

239 miles. Lat. 49 27' N.; Long. 40 55'.

_Sunday_, the 25th.--A beautiful morning, but rather foggy, as we began to approach the Banks of Newfoundland. Had a very pleasant day of reading. Had public service at one: sang the hymn of "Greenland's rocky mountain;" and Mr. Dodge, of New York, read a sermon of the Rev. Thos.

Spencer's, written when he was sixteen years old, from the text "G.o.d is love." The sea calm, but very damp.

211 miles. Lat. 48 15' N.; Long. 45 51'.

_Monday_, the 26th.--A dense fog about the middle of the banks. Sea smooth. Going 9-1/2 knots. Spent the day as usual.

212 miles. Lat. 47 5' N.; Long. 50 44'.

_Tuesday_, the 27th.--Still foggy and dark, cold and comfortless. Saw lots of porpoises and whales, who walked away from us at their leisure, the steamer making miserable progress from want of steam, though wind and sea were favourable. Spent the day as usual.

209 miles. Lat. 45 43' N.; Long. 55 10'.

_Wednesday_, the 28th.--Sky beautifully clear; but the usual fog came on at ten, and the engines were stopped for soundings: 77 fathoms, white sand. Cape Race distant 60 miles.

229 miles. Lat. 44 44' N.; Long. 60 25'.

_Thursday_, the 29th.--Wind dead a-head, with a heavy sea. Only 7 knots; and many pa.s.sengers in bed. At four o'clock the wind changed round, the sea smoothed down, and we had the most brilliant sunset I ever saw: it was past all description! It gave me a good impression of an American sun. The Yankees broke out into applause, and welcomed the face of Sol as that of an old and tried friend. Had a grand state-dinner to-day; and the pa.s.sengers appeared to do ample justice to the viands. Pa.s.sed a pleasant evening.

200 miles. Lat. 43 4' N.; Long. 64 14'.

We presented Captain Mathews with a memorial, signed by all the pa.s.sengers, on his first trip as commander, he having been first mate to Capt. Hoskin in the _Great Western_ ever since she was launched. He richly deserved a more substantial mark of our regard for his unremitting attentions.

The following was the Bill of Fare:--

BREAKFAST.

Dishes. Dishes.

Beefsteaks 4 Omelets 8 Mutton Chops -- Boiled Eggs 100 Pork Chops 4 h.o.m.ony 6 Ham and Eggs 10 Hash -- Fried Bacon 6 Mush -- Fricasee Chicken -- Fried Fish (Soles) 5 Veal Cutlets 4 Do. Potatoes -- Stews 6