Grand gala at Court.--Festival in honour of the birthday of Guildermeester.--Mad freaks of a Frenchman.--Unwelcome lights of Truth.--Invective against the English. 117

LETTER XXI.

The Queen of Portugal's Chapel.--The Orchestra.--Rehearsal of a Council.--Proposal to visit Mafra. 123

LETTER XXII.

Road to Mafra.--Distant view of the Convent.--Its vast fronts.--General magnificence of the Edifice.--The Church.--The High Altar.--Eve of the Festival of St.

Augustine.--The collateral Chapels.--The Sacristy.--The Abbot of the Convent.--The Library.--View from the Convent-roof.--Chime of Bells.--House of the Capitan Mor.--Dinner.--Vespers.--Awful sound of the Organs.--The Palace.--Return to the Convent.--Inquisitive crowd.--The Garden.--Matins.--A Procession.--The Hall de Profundis.--Solemn Repast.--Supper at the Capitan Mor's. 127

LETTER XXIII.

High ma.s.s.--Garden of the Viscount Ponte de Lima.--Leave Mafra.--An accident.--Return to Cintra.--My saloon.--Beautiful view from it. 143

LETTER XXIV.

A saloon in the highest style of oriental decoration.--Amusing stories of King John the Fifth and his recluses.--Cheerful funeral.--Refreshing ramble to the heights of Penha Verde. 147

LETTER XXV.

Anecdotes of the Conde de San Lorenzo.--Visit to Mrs.

Guildermeester.--Toads active, and toads pa.s.sive.--The old Consul and his tray of jewels. 157

LETTER XXVI.

Expected arrival at Cintra of the Queen and suite.--Duke d'Alafoens.--Excursion to a rustic Fair.--Revels of the Peasantry.--Night-scene at the Marialva Villa. 163

LETTER XXVII.

Curious scene in the interior of the palace of Cintra.--Singular invitation.--Dinner with the Archbishop Confessor.--Hilarity and shrewd remarks of that extraordinary personage. 169

LETTER XXVIII.

Explore the Cintra Mountains.--Convent of Nossa Senhora da Penha.--Moorish Ruins.--The Cork Convent.--The Rock of Lisbon.--Marine Scenery.--Susceptible imagination of the Ancients exemplified. 179

LETTER XXIX.

Excursion to Penha Verde.--Resemblance of that Villa to the edifices in Caspar Poussin's landscapes.--The ancient pine-trees, said to have been planted by Don John de Castro.--The old forests displaced by gaudy terraces.--Influx of visitors.--A celebrated Prior's erudition and strange anachronisms.--The Beast in the Apocalypse.--colampadius.--Bevy of Palace damsels.--Fete at the Marialva Villa.--The Queen and the Royal Family.--A favourite dwarf Negress.--Dignified manner of the Queen.--Profound respect inspired by her presence.--Rigorous etiquette.--Grand display of Fireworks.--The young Countess of Lumieres.--Affecting resemblance. 189

LETTER x.x.x.

Cathedral of Lisbon.--Trace of St. Anthony's fingers.--The Holy Crows.--Party formed to visit them.--A Portuguese poet.--Comfortable establishment of the Holy Crows.--Singular tradition connected with them.--Illuminations in honour of the Infanta's accouchement.--Public harangues.--Policarpio's singing, and anecdotes of the _haute n.o.blesse_. 201

LETTER x.x.xI.

Rambles in the Valley of Collates.--Elysian scenery.--Song of a young female peasant.--Rustic hospitality.--Interview with the Prince of Brazil in the plains of Cascais.--Conversation with His Royal Highness.--Return to Ramalhao. 212

LETTER x.x.xII.

Convent of Boa Morte.--Emaciated priests.--Austerity of the Order.--Contrite personages.--A _nouveau riche_.--His house.--Walk on the veranda of the palace at Belem.--Train of attendants at dinner.--Portuguese gluttony.--Black dose of legendary superst.i.tion.--Terrible denunciations.--A dreary evening. 229

LETTER x.x.xIII.

Rehearsal of Seguidillas.--Evening scene.--Crowds of beggars.--Royal charity misplaced.--Mendicant flattery.--Frightful countenances.--Performance at the Salitri theatre.--Countess of Pombeiro and her dwarf negresses.--A strange ballet.--Return to the Palace.--Supper at the Camareira Mor's.--Filial affection.--Last interview with the Archbishop.--Fatal tide of events.--Heart-felt regret on leaving Portugal. 235

LETTER x.x.xIV.

Dead ma.s.s at the church of Martyrs.--Awful music by Perez and Jomelli.--Marialva's affecting address.--My sorrow and anxiety. 253

SPAIN.

LETTER I.

Embark on the Tagus.--Aldea Gallega.--A poetical postmaster.--The church.--Leave Aldea Gallega.--Scenery on the road.--Palace built by John the Fifth.--Ruins at Montemor.--Reach Arroyolos. 259

LETTER II.

A wild tract of forest-land.--Arrival at Estremoz.--A fair.--An outrageous sermon.--Boundless wastes of gum-cistus.--Elvas.--Our reception there.--My visiters. 268

LETTER III.

Pa.s.s the rivulet which separates Spain and Portugal.--A muleteer's enthusiasm.--Badajoz.--The cathedral.--Journey resumed.--A vast plain.--Village of Lubaon.--Withered hags.--Names and characters of our mules.--Posada at Merida. 275

LETTER IV.

Arrival at Miaxada.--Monotonous singing.--Dismal country.--Truxillo.--A rainy morning.--Resume our journey.--Immense wood of cork-trees.--Almaraz.--Reception by the escrivano.--A terrific volume.--Village of Laval de Moral.--Range of lofty mountains.--Calzada. 282

LETTER V.

Sierra de los Gregos.--Ma.s.s.--Oropeza.--Talavera.--Drawling tirannas.--Talavera de la Reyna.--Reception at Santa Olaya.--The lady of the house and her dogs and dancers. 289

LETTER VI.

Dismal plains.--Santa Cruz.--Val de Carneiro.--A most determined musical amateur.--The Alcayde Mayor.--Approach to Madrid.--Aspect of the city.--The Calle d'Alcala.--The Prado.--The Ave-Maria bell. 296

LETTER VII.

The d.u.c.h.ess of Berwick in all her nonchalance.--Her apartment described.--Her pa.s.sion for music.--Her senoros de honor. 301